Dépouillements

The potential prebiotic effect of 2-Butyloctanol on the human axillary microbiome / Min Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 627-635 Titre : The potential prebiotic effect of 2-Butyloctanol on the human axillary microbiome Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Min Li, Auteur ; Katie Truong, Auteur ; Shyamala Pillai, Auteur ; Thomas Boyd, Auteur ; Aixing Fan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 627-635 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : 2-butyloctanol Aisselles -- Soins et hygiène Corynébactéries Cosmétiques Déodorants Microbiote Prébiotiques Staphylocoques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human axilla is colonized by a wide array of microorganisms that contribute to the generation of body odour. Traditional antiperspirant/deodorant products are used to reduce perspiration in the axillary region and to treat or prevent the growth of bacteria in this region, thereby reducing or eliminating body odour. However, they may also compromise the axillary microbiome balance. The personal care industry has been seeking new ingredients, such as prebiotics or probiotics, to maintain a healthy balance of the skin microbiome by inhibiting odour-causing bacteria, whilst maintaining and promoting the growth of good bacteria. The aim of this study was to investigate the prebiotic effect of a skin-care ingredient, 2-butyloctanol, on the human axillary microbiome. - Methods : An in vitro growth inhibition/promotion assay was performed to test whether 2-butyloctanol inhibited or promoted skin bacterial growth. The impact of 2-butyloctanol on the axillary microbiome was also investigated in a human clinical study using 16S rRNA gene sequencing. - Results : In-vitro testing showed that 2-butyloctanol significantly inhibited the growth of corynebacteria at concentrations of 0.64%, 2.56% and 5.12%, whilst the growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis was maintained at the same concentrations. The impact of 2-butyloctanol on the axillary microbiome was also validated in a human clinical study. A deodorant roll-on product containing 3% of 2-butyloctanol significantly reduced the relative abundance of corynebacteria, whilst increasing the relative abundance of Staphylococcus and the ratio of Staphylococcus to corynebacteria after four weeks of application, whilst the placebo showed no significant change. Conclusion : For the first time, it was demonstrated that 2-butyloctanol had a potential prebiotic effect on the human underarm microbiome in inhibiting odour-causing Corynebacterium, whilst maintaining and promoting skin-friendly Staphylococcus in both in-vitro and in-vivo studies. Therefore, 2-butyloctanol could be used as a potential prebiotic ingredient in personal care products for underarm microbiome protection. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Growth inhibition/promotion assay - Clinical study design - Bacterial qPCR - 16S rRNA gene sequencing - 16S rRNA gene sequencing data analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Growth inhibition/promotion assay - Bacterial qPCR - 16S rRNA gene sequencing DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12738 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B3bWhmhY8M52miG0w0DfH_eg9fXsPUHA/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37045 [article]

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High-performance sulphate-free cleansers : Surface activity, foaming and rheology / Kelly Yorke in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 636-652 Titre : High-performance sulphate-free cleansers : Surface activity, foaming and rheology Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kelly Yorke, Auteur ; Andrei Potanin, Auteur ; Suzanne Jogun, Auteur ; Andre Morgan, Auteur ; Hongwei Shen, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 636-652 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alkyl oléfine sulfonate Alkyl polyglycosides Moussage (chimie) Produits nettoyants Rhéologie Rhéomètres Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement Surfactants Tension superficielle Viscoélasticité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this paper is to analyse the composition of a sulphate-free binary or ternary surfactant system with alkyl olefin sulfonate (AOS), alkyl polyglucoside (APG) and lauryl hydroxysultaine (Sultaine). The composition was optimized by observing critical parameters such as surface activity and rheological properties while varying the concentration of APG in a ternary system, varying the ratio of AOS and Sultaine in a binary system and studying the effect of sodium chloride addition. The experimental results can provide an alternative, sulphate-free surfactant system to replace the common system containing sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CapB), without compromising on the parameters previously mentioned. - Methods : A DuNouy Ring was utilized on a tensiometer to measure the surface tension of the samples. To observe foaming abilities of samples, a visual foaming study was conducted and recorded by taking pictures. A TA instruments mechanical rheometer was used to measure the viscosity. - Results : Studying the effect of APG concentration on surface tension illustrated that as APG concentration decreases, surface tension decreases as well. The minimum surface tension was found to be 26.587 for 7.5 wt.% AOS and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine. When the ratio between AOS and Sultaine changed, the 1:1 system produced the lowest surface tension value again. As the concentration of AOS decreased in the ratio, the surface tension increased. When the ratio was held constant, and APG was introduced into the system, the systems containing APG had higher surface tension values compared with the systems with the same ratios but did not have APG added. As the concentration of salt increased, the surface tension decreased for AOS, increased for the binary mixture and had no effect on Sultaine. Foaming has a direct correlation with surface tension so a decrease in surface tension led to better foaming abilities; therefore, the 1:1 ratio of AOS:Sultaine had the best foaming qualities. The AOS/Sultaine system exhibited Maxwellian behaviour, suggesting the presence of worm-like micellar structures. As the concentration of APG increased, the viscosity decreased and at a concentration of 2.5 wt.% AOS, 5 wt.% APG and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine, the system changed from shear thinning non-Newtonian fluid to Newtonian. Varying the ratio of AOS:Sultaine in the binary system, showed as the ratio changed, the viscosity decreased, and at a ratio of 1:3 AOS:Sultaine, the system was primarily Newtonian. As the ratio remained constant and APG was added, the viscosity continued to decrease and the 1:3 ratio was completely Newtonian. The addition of salt had no effect on the viscosity of Sultaine, but the viscosity of AOS increased at a salt concentration of 2 wt.%. The binary mixture saw as the concentration of salt increased, the viscosity profile decreased, even though the system remained non-Newtonian and shear thinning. - Conclusion : The surface activity and rheological study of the sulfate-free surfactant systems unveil a strong synergistic interaction between AOS and Sultaine specifically at a ratio of 1:1 resulting in high surface activity and corresponding good foaming and formation of entangled wormlike micelles resulting in excellent viscosity build in the system. If introducing a biobased surfactant into this system is desired without completely compromising the performance properties, the ternary surfactant system 4.5 wt.% AOS, 3 wt.% APG and 7.5 wt.% Sultaine should be considered optimal. Any further addition of APG or changing the ratio results in detrimental reductions of all performance controlling physio-chemical parameters. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - Surface tension - Foaming - Mechanical rheology - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Surface activity : Surface tension at air–water interface and impact on foaming - Rheological properties - Table 1 : Composition of Samples, Varying the Amount of APG present - Table 2 : Compositions of samples, varying the ratio of AOS:Sultaine - Table 3 : Compositions of samples, varying the amount of salt present DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12740 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cPvP9X2TckezNRY1s0pXlWixQ-eDmdd7/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37046 [article]

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Analysis of water distribution in delipidated human hair by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) / Aya Ishihara in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 653-661 Titre : Analysis of water distribution in delipidated human hair by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Aya Ishihara, Auteur ; Yoshiaki Tsukamoto, Auteur ; Hiroyuki Inoue, Auteur ; Yohei Noda, Auteur ; Satoshi Koizumi, Auteur ; Kyohei Joko, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 653-661 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse quantitative (chimie) Cheveux -- analyse Cholestérol Diffusion de neutrons aux petits angles La diffusion de neutrons aux petits angles (DNPA) permet de sonder la matière aux échelles spatiales allant de 0.5 et 50 nm en déterminant les grandeurs moyennes qui caractérisent la taille et la forme des objets ainsi que leurs interactions. (https://www.neutron-sciences.org) Eau Formique, Acide Lipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : It is known that damaged hair has a part of its internal structure damaged, and its water absorption and desorption behavior are different. In recent years, it has been reported that internal lipids play an important role in the adsorption and desorption of water to the hair. Therefore, we investigate whether the water distribution in hair and the amount of internal lipids are related. - Methods : To investigate the effect of internal lipid on water distribution, we prepare human hair samples with and without a partial lack of internal lipids. Internal lipids have been removed using formic acid. The distribution of D2O in the hair is investigated using small angle neutron scattering (SANS) under the wet and dry conditions of each hair sample. - Results : It is found from the obtained SANS data that formic acid-treated hairs tended to have fewer 40Ã…-sized water clusters that were periodically present along the fibre axis in the wet condition. On the other hand, in the dry condition, there were no differences in water distribution between samples. - Conclusion : These observations are believed to have been caused by the reduction of 40Ã…-sized water clusters existing on the constituents removed by formic acid treatment, especially the hydrophobic (lipid) constituent tissues. Consequently, it is clarified that internal lipids are deeply involved in the state of water distribution on hair in wet conditions. Note de contenu : MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Quantification of lipid and cholesterol - Small angle neutron scattering measurement - SANS data analysis - RESULTS : Changes in hair constituents by formic acid treatment - SANS profile and analytical results under D2O immersion(Wet) and Dry conditions - Consideration - Table 1 : The amounts of solvent- extractable lipids and cholesterol - Table 2 : The obtained various characteristics of peaks DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12741 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12E1natzEkPm07KGcyUfai3nj6T53Et-h/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37047 [article]

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Olive leaf-derived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models / George P. Majewski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 662-676 Titre : Olive leaf-derived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : George P. Majewski, Auteur ; Smrita Singh, Auteur ; Krzysztof Bojanowski, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 662-676 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Collagène Collagène -- Synthèse Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Modèles numériques Olivier et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau humaine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) agonists are known to modulate the synthesis of dermal lipids and proteins including collagens. Olive (Olea europaea) leaves have been reported to contain PPAR-binding ligands. Collagen IV, a major dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) protein, degrades with both age and disease. Here, we report the formulation of a novel multi-ligand complex, Linefade, and its effects on collagen IV synthesis. - Methods : Linefade prepared from the leaves of Olea europaea contains 2% w/w plant extract solids dissolved in a mixture of glyceryl monoricinoleate and dimethyl isosorbide. In silico docking was performed with PPAR-α (PDB ID: 2P54). Linefade was evaluated for PPAR-α-dependent transcription in a luciferase reporter assay system. Cell viability and collagen IV levels in human dermal fibroblast cultures were measured using the MTT method and ELISA assay, respectively. Transcriptome analysis was conducted on a full-thickness reconstituted human skin (EpiDermFT) model. Ex vivo cell viability and collagen IV immunostaining were performed on human skin explants. - Results : In silico docking model of the major constituents (oleanolic acid and glyceryl monoricinoleate) produced a co-binding affinity of −6.7 Kcal/mole. Linefade significantly increased PPAR-α transcriptional activity in CHO cells and collagen IV synthesis in adult human dermal fibroblasts. Transcriptome analysis revealed that 1% Linefade modulated the expression of 280 genes with some related to epidermal differentiation, DEJ, PPAR, Nrf2 and retinoid pathways. An ex vivo human explant study showed that 1% Linefade, delivered via a triglycerides excipient, increased collagen IV levels along the dermal–epidermal junction by 52%. - Conclusion : In silico modelling and in vitro and ex vivo analyses confirmed Linefade-mediated activation of PPAR-α and stimulation of collagen IV synthesis. Note de contenu : MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of linefade - In silico modelling technique and validation - In vitro cell studies - Assay on reconstituted skin substitutes - Ex vivo study - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : In silico modelling - In vitro cell studies - Transcriptome analysis - Human explants (Collagen IV) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12742 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BeDt-gYbDKZbvjDvfvDYue6axRMi-oNy/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37048 [article]

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Development of a skin microbiome diagnostic method to assess skin condition in healthy individuals : Application of research on skin microbiomes and skin condition / Yuki Kotakeyama in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 677-690 Titre : Development of a skin microbiome diagnostic method to assess skin condition in healthy individuals : Application of research on skin microbiomes and skin condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Yuki Kotakeyama, Auteur ; Rie Nakamura, Auteur ; Masaharu Kurosawa, Auteur ; Seiko Ota, Auteur ; Ruka Suzuki, Auteur ; Miki Nakanishi, Auteur ; Kohei Kanno, Auteur ; Kosuke Watanabe, Auteur ; Yukiko Ishitsuka, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 677-690 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Dermo-cosmétologie Diagnostic biologique Microbiologie Microbiome -- Analyse Microbiome cutané Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Rides Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pellicules (dermatologie) Rosacée La rosacée, connue aussi sous le nom de couperose, est une maladie cutanée incurable au départ bénigne qui se manifeste par des rougeurs chroniques au niveau du nez, des joues, parfois aussi au niveau du menton et du front. Ces symptômes s'accompagnent d'une sensation de picotement, notamment au niveau des yeux. De petits vaisseaux sanguins, caractéristiques des varicosités sont souvent visibles dans les zones touchées associées à des télangiectasies. La maladie est évolutive et peut provoquer des crises d'acné, notamment en cas de stress ou de fatigue, et, à un stade avancé, faire enfler le nez du sujet qui reste rouge et bosselé (rhinophyma). Lorsque la rosacée est à un stade plus avancé, ou soumise à différents facteurs, elle peut aussi durement affecter la vue du sujet qui en est atteint et un examen dermatologique est recommandé. Celle maladie se distingue de l'érythrose faciale qui est un érythème diffus disparaissant à la vitropression. Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin microbiomes vary across individuals. They are known to play essential roles in maintaining homeostasis and preventing infectious pathogens. In recent years, cosmetic product development has begun to focus on the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin conditions. However, the statistical methods used in many studies include the standard t-test and small-scale correlation analysis, which do not take into account the internal correlation structure in data on skin microbiomes and skin features. In this study, we aimed to understand the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features by analysing complex microbiomes and skin data. - Methods : We obtained data on 19 skin characteristics and skin microbiomes based on 16s ribosomal RNA (16S rRNA) gene analysis of 276 healthy Japanese women. We then performed the principal component analysis (PCA), a method that takes into account the internal correlation structure, on 234 panels of them that did not contain outliers or missing values. We confirmed the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features with principal component regression analysis and hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA). - Results : The principal component regression analysis showed strong relationships between skin microbiomes and sebum-related skin characteristics and skin pH. In the HCA, the female panel was classified into two major groups based on the skin microbiome. Furthermore, there were significant differences in sebum-related skin characteristics and the way skin condition changes with ageing between those groups, suggesting the possibility of measuring skin condition and age-related skin risk based on microbiome data. In addition, sebum-related characteristics differed significantly among middle-aged participants, suggesting a strong relationship between skin microbiomes and sebum-related characteristics. - Conclusion : Analysis of skin condition and skin microbiome in Japanese women, taking into account the correlation between variables, showed that skin microbiome was significantly related to the number of pores and the amount of sebum. Furthermore, it was suggested that the skin condition and the way the skin condition changes with ageing may differ depending on the type of skin microbiome. The finding of a relationship between skin condition and skin microbiome suggests the possibility of proposing a new beauty method focusing on the skin microbiome in the future. Note de contenu : - SUBJECTS AND METHODS : Study population - Acquisition of data on skin features - Acquisition of skin microbiome data and calculation - Computational analysis - Selection of microbiome genera for analysis - Statistical analysisPrincipal component analysis - Multivariable linear regression on skin features and skin microbiomes - Hierarchical clustering analysis and Mann–Whitney's analysis on skin features and skin microbiomes - RESULTS : Study population - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Age and skin features of the study participants - Table 2 : Pearson's correlations derived from the principal component analysis of 19 skin features - Table 3 : Variances derived from the principal component analysis (PCA) of 19 skin features - Table 4 : Rotated components: eigenvector between 19 skin features and 9 main principal components (PCs) - Table 5 : Statistical associations between the main skin microbiome and skin feature score derived from the principal component analysis - Table 6 : Comparison of each skin feature by group (Mann– Whitney U test) - Table 7 : Comparison of each skin feature by group while taking age bias into account (Mann– Whitney U test) - Table 8 : Correlations between age and skin features in all panels and by microbiome type DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12744 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZvqY0QBBQSJcfM312AXpBvj9A3pruCs7/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37049 [article]

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Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 691-702 Titre : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Nathalie Borotra, Auteur ; Fernanda Chaves, Auteur ; Fabio Sanches, Auteur ; Anne L. Gaudry, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 691-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide ascorbique glucoside Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Explant de peau Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau humaine Protection cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations. - Methods : Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase. - Results : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions. - Conclusion : A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Storage stability - Penetration and metabolism in viable fresh human skin explants - HPLC/UV analysis of AA and AA2G - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Stability of AA2G and AA in formulations - Prodrug concept: AA release in fresh viable human skin explants from AA2G - Kinetic of penetration of AA2G vs. AA formulations in fresh viable human skin explants - Antioxidant protection of AA2G in RHE model DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12745 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBKOIM98kz6UIcCT2A28dTue6JagkvCH/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37050 [article]

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Melanogenesis-promoting effect of Cirsium japonicum flower extract in vitro and ex vivo / Minkyung Kim in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) Titre : Melanogenesis-promoting effect of Cirsium japonicum flower extract in vitro and ex vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Minkyung Kim, Auteur ; Kyungeun Jeon, Auteur ; Seoungwoo Shin, Auteur ; Sohyun Yoon, Auteur ; Hayeon Kim, Auteur ; Hee Young Kang, Auteur ; Dehun Ryu, Auteur ; Deokhoon Park, Auteur ; Eunsun Jung, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adénosine monophosphate cyclique L'adénosine monophosphate cyclique (ou AMP cyclique ou AMPc) est une molécule biologique qui agit souvent en tant qu'intermédiaire, dans l'action des hormones ou des neurotransmetteurs notamment. Elle fait partie des seconds messagers. Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Follicule pileux Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau reconstituée Pigmentation de la peau Pigmentation, Troubles de la Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In this study, we examined the effect of C. japonicum flower extract (CFE) on melanogenesis and its mechanism in vitro and ex vivo. - Methods : The effect of CFE on melanogenesis was investigated with lightly (HEMn-LP) and moderately (HEMn-MP) pigmented normal human melanocytes, reconstituted three-dimensional skin (3D skin) model and ex vivo human hair follicles. The melanogenesis-inducing effect of CFE was evaluated using melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity assay. The amount and type of eumelanin and pheomelanin were analysed by using HPLC method. The mechanism involved in the effect of CFE on hyperpigmentation was explored by cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) immunoassay and western blot analysis for tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and phosphorylated CRE-binding protein (pCREB) expression. The degree of pigmentation in 3D skin and L-values were measured using a CR-300 chroma meter. The amount of dissolved melanin was measured using a spectrophotometer. The content of melanin in the hair follicles was evaluated by Fontana Masson staining. - Results : C. japonicum flower extract significantly increased the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in both HEMn-LP and HEMn-MP cells. The markers of pheomelanin and eumelanin in HEMn-LP and HEMn-MP were also increased by CFE. We observed that CFE treatment on melanocytes increased intracellular cAMP with inducing pCREB and up-regulating the protein levels of TYR and MITF. Furthermore, CFE considerably increased the melanin content in a 3D skin model and ex vivo human hair follicles. - Conclusions : These results suggest that CFE exerts hyperpigmentation activity through cAMP signalling in human melanocytes that it can improve follicular depigmentation and vitiligo by stimulating the melanin synthesis. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Cell culture and viability assay - Melanin content and cell viability assay - Analysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin by HPLC - Cellular tyrosinase activity - Cyclic AMP immunoassay - Western blot analysis - The reconstituted three-dimensional human skin model - Ex vivo human hair follicles - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Effect of CFE on the melanin content of lightly and moderately pigmented human melanocytes - Analysis on markers of pheomelanin and eumelanin - Effect of CFE on cellular tyrosinase activity - Effect of CFE on cAMP signalling pathway - Melanogenic effect of CFE on 3D skin model - Table 1 : TTCA and PTCA as specific markers in lightly and moderately pigmented melanocytes DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12746 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ujuVw-VGc03qkR-B5zlcoeYHm0Vn4ygI/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37051 [article]

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Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60–based topical vehicles / Hoang Vu Dang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 715-728 Titre : Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60–based topical vehicles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hoang Vu Dang, Auteur ; Hung Tran Huu, Auteur ; Hue Minh Thi Nguyen, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 715-728 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras Analyse thermique Calorimétrie Chromatographie en phase gazeuse Chromatographie en phase liquide Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Microscopie Polyéthylène glycol Polysorbates Rayons X -- Diffusion Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fatty alcohol-polysorbate 60-water ternary systems were used as models to represent the continuous phases of the respective semisolid oil-in-water emulsions for topical delivery of cosmetic and medicinal agents. The influence of batch variation of polysorbate 60 and fatty alcohol on structure and consistency of these systems was investigated using microscopy, rheology, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray scattering techniques. The polysorbate 60 : cetostearyl alcohol mixed emulsifying wax showed swelling in water, that is, the lamellar repeat distance continually augmented from 93 to 125 Ã… with water percentage 20–90%. Cetostearyl alcohol ternary systems were thicker than cetyl alcohol ones independently of polysorbate 60 batches used. All the ternary systems showed an initial increase in consistency over the first 2 weeks of storage, which was followed by slight changes in consistency (cetostearyl alcohol systems) due to the re-allocation of polysorbate 60 molecules in the gel network or significant breakdown of structure (cetyl alcohol systems) due to the transformation of swollen α-lamellar gel phase into β, γ crystals on 25°C storage. With all fatty alcohols, the consistency of polysorbate 60 ternary system was directly dependent upon interlamellar water thickness as governed by the length and distribution of polyoxyethylene groups within polysorbate 60 molecules. In relation with the composition of polysorbate 60 batches used, the consistency of ternary systems was higher when prepared with the polysorbate 60 batch containing a greater amount of sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters. It was proposed that the swollen α-crystalline gel phase could be better formed by sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters rather than sorbitan polyoxyethylene diesters. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Gas chromatography (GC) analysis of fatty alcohols - Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis of polysorbate 60 batches - Preparation of ternary systems - Macroscopic and microscopic observation - Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) - X-ray scattering - RESULTS : GC data of fatty alcohols - LC-MS data of polysorbate 60 - Macroscopic and microscopic observation - DSC data - Rheological data - X-ray scattering data - Table 1 : GC analysis data of batches of fatty alcohols used - Table 2 : Experimental calculation of creep curve analysis of CSA1–B1/B2 polysorbate 60 – water systems (n = 3, RSD < 2%) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12747 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q9nm1dcGjMhpuy1CKQfuktkKZRAT_e6l/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37052 [article]

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Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin / Cécile Bize in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 729-737 Titre : Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation : Investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Cécile Bize, Auteur ; Erwan Le Gelebart, Auteur ; Alain Moga, Auteur ; Bruno Payré, Auteur ; Christine Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 729-737 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Many endogenous or exogenous factors, isolated or combined, can trigger dry skin disorder, leading to a water/lipids-depleted stratum corneum concomitant with uncomfortable rough and scaly skin surface. In a defensive reaction, the alteration of the skin barrier stimulates the production of cytokines to initiate homeostasis restoration but this can also induce an inflammatory response that further weakens the barrier. The two phenomena intertwining one another lead to the creation of a vicious circle, here called Inflamm'dryness, that maintains dry skin state. It is thus very important to investigate biological mechanisms involved in Inflamm'dryness to better manage dry skin. - Methods : A 3D model mimicking dry skin has been developed. Adjustment of tape stripping level allowed to reproduce skin barrier alterations and resulting inflammation involved in dry skin. The effect of Helichrysum stoechas extract on this downward spiral was then investigated to validate the concept. - Results : Tape-stripping permitted to successively remove the cell layers of the stratum corneum: the barrier function was altered and skin was inflamed creating a vicious circle, mimicking very dry skin prone to Inflamm'dryness. Helichrysum stoechas extract was not only able to resolve inflammation but also to reverse concurrently adverse tape-stripping effects and imparted significant structural and functional recovery of the barrier (e.g. on NMF and ceramides levels, TEWL, tissue organization). - Conclusion : This 3D model reproduces Inflamm'dryness vicious circle present in dry skin and highlights the importance of breaking this process to improve dry skin conditions. Helichrysum stoechas extract is a promising active ingredient for the management of dry skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Helichrysum stoechas extract - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Inflamm'dryness 3D model - Helichrysum stoechas extract breaks the vicious circle of Inflamm'dryness - Table 1 : Evolution of skin barrier and inflammation markers DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12748 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GSbf9XzqmBbg_WiO611oAsLfiSZBO-gV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37053 [article]

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Elongated microparticles tuned for targeting hyaluronic acid delivery to specific skin strata in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 738-747 Titre : Elongated microparticles tuned for targeting hyaluronic acid delivery to specific skin strata Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 738-747 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosméceutique Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Médicaments -- Administration par voie transcutanée Micro-aiguilles Particules (matières) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Microneedle or fractional laser applications are the most common topical delivery enhancement platforms. However, these methods of drug delivery are not skin strata specific. Drug delivery approaches which could target specific stratum of the skin remains a challenge. Elongated microparticles (EMPs) have been used in enhancing drug delivery into the skin. The aim of this study was to evaluate, for the first time, elongated silica microparticles with two different length profiles to enhance delivery of hyaluronic acid into different strata of human skin. - Methods : Two types of EMPs—long (milled EMPs) or short (etched EMPs) length ranges were characterized. A prototypical liquid formulation (Fluorescent hyaluronic acid) with and without EMP enhancement were evaluated for hyaluronic acid delivery in ex-vivo human skin. High performance liquid chromatography, Typhoon fluorescence scanning system, laser scanning confocal microscopy and reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) were used to validate F-HA stability, visualize fluorescein in the skin, image the depth of F-HA delivery in the skin and define EMP penetration in skin strata, respectively. Statistical analysis was conducted using GraphPad Prism 6 software (GraphPad Software Inc, USA). - Results : Fluorescein-hyaluronic acid was stable and EMP enhanced skin penetration. RCM revealed that ‘etched EMP’ penetrated the skin to the stratum spinosum level. The vast majority (97.8%; p < 0.001) of the etched EMP did not penetrate completely through the viable epidermis and no obvious penetration into the dermis. In contrast, milled EMP showed 41-fold increase in penetration compared to the etched EMP but penetrated beyond the dermoepidermal junction. - Conclusion : EMPs can enhance delivery of hyaluronic acid. Using EMPs with defined length distributions, which can be tuned for a specific stratum of the skin, can achieve targeted hyaluronic acid delivery. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Fluorescein-hyaluronic acid stability evaluation by HPLC - Microscopic characterization of milled and etched EMP morphologies - Evaluation of EMP-enhanced F-HA delivery in ex-vivo human skin - Depth of F-HA delivery in ex vivo human skin with and without EMP - Penetration and distribution of etched EMPs versus milled EMPs in different skin strata DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12749 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rI_PBk-fp2RlBwfxGg4kX6PKSLPQns4r/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37054 [article]

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Rheological stability of carbomer in hydroalcoholic gels: Influence of alcohol type / Mackenzie Kolman in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 748-763 Titre : Rheological stability of carbomer in hydroalcoholic gels: Influence of alcohol type Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Mackenzie Kolman, Auteur ; Connor Smith, Auteur ; Debojit Chakrabarty, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 748-763 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool Carbomères Les carbomères sont des polymères synthétiques hydrophiles d'acide acrylique. Les carbomères sont utilisés comme émulsions stabilisatrices ou comme agents épaississants ayant l'apparence d'un gel aqueux dans l'industrie pharmaceutique ou cosmétique. L'aminométhyl propanol permet de les stabiliser sous la forme d'un gel. Gels hydro-alcooliques Isopropanol L'isopropanol ou alcool isopropylique est le nom commun pour le propan-2-ol, composé chimique sans couleur et inflammable dont la formule chimique est CH3CH(OH)-CH3. C'est l'un des deux isomères du propanol (l'autre étant le propan-1-ol). Il est aussi connu sous son nom abrégé IPA (acronyme de l'anglais IsoPropyl Alcohol). Il est obtenu à partir de la réduction de l'acétone par le tétrahydruroborate de sodium. Un autre procédé de fabrication consiste en une hydratation indirecte du propylène par l'acide sulfurique à 70 %, suivie d'une hydrolyse qui conduit à l'isopropanol. pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Triéthanolamine Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this paper is to analyse and attempt to understand the nature of rheological changes observed and the dynamics of Carbopol NF 980 hydroalcoholic gels neutralized specifically by triethanol amine (TEA), both as a function of time and alcohol type to probe time stabilities and ageing effects in such carbopol gel systems. The rheological changes and dynamics of 3 carbopol gel systems were observed; the gels included a water-based, ethanol-based, and isopropyl alcohol-based gel. It is hoped that this study shall shed light on the dynamical nature and the microstructural evolution of such networked gel systems, which were maintained under closed isothermal conditions and left completely unperturbed. The experimental results can provide the information necessary to understand and proposes plausible mechanisms guiding this dynamical behaviour in hydroalcoholic carbopol gels. - Methods : A TA instrument mechanical rheometer was used to measure the viscosity and storage and loss modulus, and a pH meter was utilized to determine the changes in each sample over the period. - Results : Studying the differences in the gel structures upon initial preparation illustrated that the ethanol and isopropyl alcohol (IPA) gels differed from the water-based gel in terms of viscosity, G′, and G″, with the IPA gel displaying the lowest viscosity and moduli values across all shear rates. All the three gel systems exhibited strong shear thinning characteristics and were reminiscent of yield stress type found in colloidal gels. The water-based gel compared to the hydroalcoholic gels was strongly G′ dominated, with the magnitude of the difference between G′ and G″ observed to be much higher. This reflects that initial formation of the water-based gel structure possesses a much more rigid structure with a high elastic modulus component dominating. This also suggests that the water-based gel structure displayed stronger interactions between the carbopol particles when compared to those of the hydroalcoholic gels. Over the 30-day period, it was observed that the ethanol and water-based gels did not reveal any appreciable viscosity changes, with only an approximate 12% and 7% change from day 1 to 30, respectively. It was observed that the IPA systems' viscosity drastically increased over the period, with an approximately 77% change from day 1 to 30. The water and ethanol-based gels also exhibited very similar rheological behaviour over the entire time period with G′ dominating G″. The G″ values of the water and ethanol-based gels decreased slightly at the end of day 30 by 10% and 16%, respectively, while the G′ values for each sample remained essentially unchanged, increasing only 0.06% for the water-based gel, and increasing 1.4% for the ethanol-based gel. This further confirms the relatively stable gel structures attained. For the isopropyl gel system, the storage modulus of the system exhibited an average percent increase of approximately 16% from day 1 to day 30, but interestingly the loss modulus varied the least amongst all the gel systems, with only a 3% increase. The increase in G′ reflects upon the evolution of a more rigid structure by day 30 for the IPA gel. This observation is clearly consistent with the corresponding increase in viscosity observed in the IPA gel. None of the gels tested displayed a consistent pH over the period. The pH of the hydroalcoholic gels was higher than that of the water-based gel for a majority of the period. The greatest fluctuations in pH were observed for the water and IPA gels, even though the water-based gel had one of the most stable rheological profiles out of the samples tested. The water, ethanol, and IPA gels' pH increased approximately 25%, 6%, and 5%, respectively, from day 1 to day 30. - Conclusion : The rheological and pH study of the 3 hand sanitizer systems over a 30-day period allowed for rational insights into the plausible reasons responsible for driving the observed rheological changes in these unperturbed systems. For the water-based gel, we hypothesize that the changes observed are due to physical ageing, where the gel structure has evolved over time to eventually progress towards a more stabilized framework structure. The pH of the gel upon formation was on the lower side. Such a lower pH influences the formation of a gel, which is comparatively less swollen and occupies a slightly lesser volume, and thereby points to a much less compacted gel network structure or alternatively, a more fluid structure. If the particles moved around more, the system was not initially in a state of low energy, causing increased particle movement, and in turn, physical ageing. This could be responsible for the development of a physically altered structure over time. The gel structure dynamically attempts to minimize its free energy by becoming more rigid, which has been observed as being manifested in the decrease of both the viscosity and the G″. For the hydroalcoholic gels, we conjecture that ageing observed was a result of chemical ageing, and the alcohol type employed in the preparation is primarily responsible for exhibiting this effect. The polarities of ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol are key to the stabilization of such resultant network structures which get formed because of neutralization. It has been observed in previous studies that with decreasing polarity, there was an increase in the neutralization needed to obtain the development of a structure half as well developed as the final resultant structure. Isopropyl alcohol is a much less polar solvent compared to ethanol and water, and therefore required higher levels of TEA as the base to neutralize the system. We conjecture that the charged TEA cationic species had a greater propensity to get exchanged with bulk solution in the vicinity of the polymer into the bulk solution, and that the pH fluctuation observed indicated a kinetic exchange process over time, causing the viscosity and moduli profiles to increase along with the pH. At this time though, further investigations need to be carried out to truly understand the underlying instability, and thus dynamics for gel systems of this type. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - pH monitoring - Mechanical rheology - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Differences in gel structure on preparation - Ageing data on gels - Changes in Gel pH over the 30-day Period DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12750 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y7b2BN40Sk5HLTI2AddtO_EzlFTgG2ob/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37055 [article]

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Impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of the hair surface / Hitoshi Masaki in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 764-771 Titre : Impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of the hair surface Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hitoshi Masaki, Auteur ; Daisuke Sinomiya, Auteur ; Yuri Okano, Auteur ; Masaki Yoshida, Auteur ; Tokuro Iwabuchi, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 764-771 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carbonylation Cheveux Cosmétiques Décoloration Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrophobie Peroxyde d'hydrogène Le peroxyde d'hydrogène (H2O2), communément appelé eau oxygénée ou encore perhydrol (appellation industrielle), est un composé chimique liquide et visqueux, aux puissantes propriétés oxydantes (il est aussi réducteur). C'est donc un agent blanchissant efficace qui sert de désinfectant et (à haute concentration) d'oxydant ou monergol dans les fusées spatiales. Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The purpose of this study was to clarify the impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of the hair surface focusing on hydrophobicity. - Methods : First, we examined the validity of methods to evaluate hydrophobicity, one that utilizes the fluorescence of 1-anilinonaphtalene-8-sulfonic acid (1,8-ANS) compared with the contact angles against H2O, of the hair surface chemically modified by alkaline hydrolysis or treated with stearyl ammonium chloride. We measured hairs bleached with H2O2 or treated with acrolein for fluorescence originating from 1,8-ANS, for the contact angle and for changes of functional groups, aldehydes (the degree of carbonylation), NH2, COOH and SH, using fluorescence labelling methods. - Results : The fluorescence intensity of 1,8-ANS of the hair surface modified chemically correlated well with the contact angles against H2O. The results indicated that 1,8-ANS is suitable for evaluating the hydrophobicity of the hair surface. The hydrophobicity of hairs bleached with H2O2 or carbonylated with acrolein was decreased. In addition, changes of functional groups in hairs carbonylated with acrolein increased as did those of hairs bleached with H2O2. - Conclusion : The results suggest that the carbonylation of proteins at the hair surface with aldehydes decreases hydrophobicity and promotes further damage as does bleaching. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Chemical modification of hair hydrophobicity - Assessment of hydrophobicity - Impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of hair - Fluorescence labelling of functional groups in proteins of hair - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Validation of the hydrophobicity assessment of hair by the fluorescence intensity of 1,8-ANS - Impact of protein carbonylation on the chemical characteristics of hair - Table : Formulations for hair bleaching DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12743 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TlZV5F6qT77Bxf8d3hx5sVetBdTljWVC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37056 [article]

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