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Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60–based topical vehicles / Hoang Vu Dang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)
[article]
Titre : Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60–based topical vehicles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hoang Vu Dang, Auteur ; Hung Tran Huu, Auteur ; Hue Minh Thi Nguyen, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 715-728 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras
Analyse thermique
Calorimétrie
Chromatographie en phase gazeuse
Chromatographie en phase liquide
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Microscopie
Polyéthylène glycol
Polysorbates
Rayons X -- Diffusion
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fatty alcohol-polysorbate 60-water ternary systems were used as models to represent the continuous phases of the respective semisolid oil-in-water emulsions for topical delivery of cosmetic and medicinal agents. The influence of batch variation of polysorbate 60 and fatty alcohol on structure and consistency of these systems was investigated using microscopy, rheology, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray scattering techniques. The polysorbate 60 : cetostearyl alcohol mixed emulsifying wax showed swelling in water, that is, the lamellar repeat distance continually augmented from 93 to 125 Ã… with water percentage 20–90%. Cetostearyl alcohol ternary systems were thicker than cetyl alcohol ones independently of polysorbate 60 batches used. All the ternary systems showed an initial increase in consistency over the first 2 weeks of storage, which was followed by slight changes in consistency (cetostearyl alcohol systems) due to the re-allocation of polysorbate 60 molecules in the gel network or significant breakdown of structure (cetyl alcohol systems) due to the transformation of swollen α-lamellar gel phase into β, γ crystals on 25°C storage. With all fatty alcohols, the consistency of polysorbate 60 ternary system was directly dependent upon interlamellar water thickness as governed by the length and distribution of polyoxyethylene groups within polysorbate 60 molecules. In relation with the composition of polysorbate 60 batches used, the consistency of ternary systems was higher when prepared with the polysorbate 60 batch containing a greater amount of sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters. It was proposed that the swollen α-crystalline gel phase could be better formed by sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters rather than sorbitan polyoxyethylene diesters. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Gas chromatography (GC) analysis of fatty alcohols - Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis of polysorbate 60 batches - Preparation of ternary systems - Macroscopic and microscopic observation - Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) - X-ray scattering
- RESULTS : GC data of fatty alcohols - LC-MS data of polysorbate 60 - Macroscopic and microscopic observation - DSC data - Rheological data - X-ray scattering data
- Table 1 : GC analysis data of batches of fatty alcohols used
- Table 2 : Experimental calculation of creep curve analysis of CSA1–B1/B2 polysorbate 60 – water systems (n = 3, RSD < 2%)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12747 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q9nm1dcGjMhpuy1CKQfuktkKZRAT_e6l/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37052
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 715-728[article]Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform / A. R. Davies in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)
[article]
Titre : Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : A. R. Davies, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 259-269 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras
Automatisation
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chlorure de behentrimonium
Chlorure de cétrimonium
Composés lamellaires
Dilution
Elasticité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Micelles
Produits après-shampooings
Rhéologie
Surfactants
Systèmes auto-assemblésIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning.
- Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer.
- Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off.
- Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution.Note de contenu : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning.
- Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer.
- Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off.
- Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution.DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12609 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCms_kWzscE6oPauostB7q8_J8tKKwBu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35273
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 259-269[article]