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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE / Société Française de Cosmétologie . Vol. 42, N° 2Mention de date : 04/2020Paru le : 26/04/2020 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierRevealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone / Riccardo Sfriso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Revealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Markus Egert, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 116-126 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Microbiome cutané
Microorganismes
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for both the dermatological and cosmetic fields. Understanding the skin microbiota, that is the collection of vital microorganisms living on our skin, and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential step to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin and its appearance. Imbalances in the skin microbiota composition (dysbiosis) are associated with several skin conditions, either pathological such as eczema, acne, allergies or dandruff or non-pathological such as sensitive skin, irritated skin or dry skin. Therefore, the development of approaches which preserve or restore the natural, individual balance of the microbiota represents a novel target not only for dermatologists but also for skincare applications. This review gives an overview on the current knowledge on the skin microbiome, the currently available sampling and analysis techniques as well as a description of current approaches undertaken in the skincare segment to help restoring and balancing the structure and functionality of the skin microbiota. Note de contenu : - The human cutaneous microbiome
- Microorganisms have topographical and environmental preferences
- Bacterial strategies for skin colonization in health and disease
- Currently available sampling methods to analyse the skin microbiota
- Planning a human skin microbiome study
- Approaches to characterize and study the skin microbiome
- How should a healthy microbiota look like ?
- Present and future perspectives in the skincare industryDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12594 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34502
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Comparison of extraction methods for chemical composition, antibacterial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities of Eryngium maritimum / M. Traversier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Comparison of extraction methods for chemical composition, antibacterial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities of Eryngium maritimum Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Traversier, Auteur ; T. Gaslonde, Auteur ; M. Lecso, Auteur ; S. Michel, Auteur ; Eldra Delannay, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 127-135 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Biologie végétale
Biomolécules actives
Chimie analytique
Evaluation
Extraction (chimie)
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : The objective is to develop a natural cosmetic ingredient from Eryngium maritimum regarding the high interest of consumer in these ingredients for cosmetic use.
- METHODS : Five eco-friendly techniques of extraction were applied to Eryngium maritimum aerial parts among conventional reflux extraction (with green solvent) and alternative techniques (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and ultrasound combined with microwave extraction (UAE + MAE)). Several criteria were evaluated to allow the optimal choice for an industrialized ingredient: yield of extraction, chemical composition and biological activities such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities. The extracts were analysed by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS), and the hierarchical Pearson classification (HCA) allowed to highlight the group of metabolites preferably extracted depending on the technique of extraction used.
- RESULTS : The biological results highlight that SFE and 80% ethanol reflux extracts have the best responses to biological activities such as antimicrobial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities, followed by water reflux extraction. Their activities might be due to the presence of different groups of metabolites favourably extracted by these techniques.
- CONCLUSION : Among these extractions, water reflux extraction provided the optimal results considering the compromise between extraction yield and biological activities for the development of a cosmetic ingredient.
Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant material and chemicals - Preparation of extracts - Antioxidant assays - Tyrosinase assay - Collagenase assay - Antibacterial assay - LC-MS analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : LC-MS analysis - Influence of methods of extraction on biological activities - Selection of an optimal ingredient for cosmetic applicationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12595 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12595 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34503
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible UV reflectance photography of skin : what are you imaging ? / Jonathan M. Crowther in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : UV reflectance photography of skin : what are you imaging ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jonathan M. Crowther, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 136-145 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Peau -- analyse
Photographie
Spectroscopie de réflectanceIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Photography can be a powerful tool for researching the skin. Moving outside the visible spectrum and into the ultra violet (UV) presents a unique set of challenges to the skin photographer because of the restrictions imposed by the equipment being used. This article discusses these challenges in relation to camera sensitivity, lens and filter transmission and lighting spectrum, with the aim of demystifying what is actually being captured when imaging skin.
- METHODS : In addition to a discussion of existing data on the subject of camera sensor sensitivity, filter transmission and flash spectral analysis, transmission in the UV of a variety of camera lenses using a new method has been carried out.
- RESULTS : Using the described approach, lens transmission between 280 and 420 nm of a range of lenses has been measured. Combining this with camera sensor sensitivity data and filter and light source characteristics, it has been possible to determine an overall, harmonized, spectral sensitivity curve for what is being imaged with a given setup.
- CONCLUSIONS : UV reflectance photography, while a powerful tool, is often misunderstood and misreported as to what is actually being imaged. By combining measurements on camera sensitivity, lens and filter transmission and light source spectra the researcher can more fully understand what is they are actually measuring, thereby enabling better communication with the consumer on what they are seeing and a more complete description for any claims support.Note de contenu : - Factors to consider during equipment choice
- Lens transmission
- Filter transmission
- Light source
- Bringing it all together - harmonization
- Image format - Jpg or RAWDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12591 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34504
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Christopher M. Reddy, Auteur ; Gregory W. O'Neil, Auteur ; Mark Chandler, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 146-155 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcénones Les alcénones (ou alkénones) sont des composés organiques (cétones) très résistants (et fossilisables) produits depuis des millions d'années par des algues phytoplanctoniques de la classe des Prymnesiophyceae. Leur rôle biologique exact dans la cellule reste débattu.
Analyse thermique
Cires -- Analyse
Cosmétiques
Couleur
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Maquillage
Rouges à lèvresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Waxes are used as structuring agents in lipsticks. There are a variety of waxes combined in a single lipstick to provide good stability, pleasant texture and good pay-off. Due to a significant growth for natural, green and sustainable products, there is a constant search for alternatives to animal-derived and petroleum-derived ingredients. In this study, a green, non-animalderived wax, namely long-chain ketones (referred to as alkenones), sourced from marine microalgae was formulated into lipsticks and evaluated as a structuring agent.
- METHODS : Alkenones were used as a substitute for microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax, typical structuring agents. In total, 384 lipsticks were formulated: L1 (control, no alkenones), L2 (alkenones as a substitute for ozokerite), L3 (alkenones as a substitute for microcrystalline wax) and L4 (alkenones as a substitute for candelilla wax). Products were tested for hardness (bending force), stiffness, firmness (needle penetration), pay-off (using a texture analyser and a consumer panel), friction, melting point and stability for 12 weeks at 25 and 45°C.
- RESULTS : Alkenones influenced each characteristic evaluated. In general, lipsticks with alkenones (L2-L4) became softer and easier to bend compared to the control (L1). In terms of firmness, lipsticks were similar to the control, except for L4, which was significantly (P < 0.05) firmer. The effect on pay-off was not consistent. L2 and L3 had higher pay-off to skin and fabric than L1. In addition, L4 had the lowest amount transferred, but it still had the highest colour intensity on skin. Alkenones influenced friction (glide) positively; the average friction decreased for L2-L4. The lowest friction (i.e. best glide) was shown in L4. Melting point of the lipsticks was lower when alkenones were present. Overall, L4, containing 7% of 4 alkenones in combination with microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and carnauba wax, was found to have the most desirable attributes, including ease of bending, high level of firmness, low pay-off in terms of amount, high colour intensity on skin and low friction (i.e. better glide). Consumers preferred L4 the most overall.
- CONCLUSION : Results of this study indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, non-animal and non-petroleum-derived choice as a structuring agent for lipsticks.
Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS
- CONSUMER STUDY : Differential scanning analysis - Stability
- RESULTS : Hardness and stiffness - Needle penetration test - Pay-off - Consumer study - DSC - Stability studyDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12597 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34505
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients / Gisely Sposito Vieira in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gisely Sposito Vieira, Auteur ; Marc Lavarde, Auteur ; Viannay Fréville, Auteur ; Pedro Alves Rocha-Filho, Auteur ; Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 156-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amidons
Analyse sensorielle
Beurre de karité
GlycolsUn glycol ou diol est un composé chimique organique portant deux groupes hydroxyle (-OH).
Lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont portés par le même atome de carbone, on parle de diol géminal. Parmi ceux-ci, on compte par exemple le méthanediol (H2C(OH)2) ou le 1,1,1,3,3,3-hexafluoropropane-2,2-diol ((F3C)2C(OH)2), la forme hydratée de l'hexafluoroacétone.
On parle de diol vicinal lorsque les deux groupes hydroxyle sont en position vicinale, c'est-à -dire attachés à des atomes de carbone adjacents. On compte parmi ceux-ci l'éthane-1,2-diol ou éthylène glycol (HO-(CH2)2-OH), un composant courant des produits antigels ou le propane-1,2-diol (propylène glycol, HO-CH2-CH(OH)-CH3).
Parmi les composés avec des groupes hydroxyles bien plus éloignés on compte le butane-1,4-diol (HO-(CH2)4-OH) ou encore le bisphénol A.
Huiles et graisses
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Statistique
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - INTRODUCTION : Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients.
- OBJECTIVE : The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements.
- METHODS : Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model.
- RESULTS : Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were : gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non‐fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : The panel - Descriptive sensory analysis - Instrumental analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Descriptive sensory analysis - Glycolic extracts - Instrumental analysisDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12598 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34506
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A combination of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol stabilizes hypoxia-;inducible factor 1-alpha and improves hair density in female volunteers / Franck Juchaux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : A combination of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol stabilizes hypoxia-;inducible factor 1-alpha and improves hair density in female volunteers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franck Juchaux, Auteur ; T. Sellathurai, Auteur ; V. Perrault, Auteur ; F. Boirre, Auteur ; P. Delannoy, Auteur ; K. Bakkar, Auteur ; J. Albaud, Auteur ; A. Gueniche, Auteur ; A. Cheniti, Auteur ; S. Dal Belo, Auteur ; L. Souverain, Auteur ; M. Le Balch, Auteur ; S. Commo, Auteur ; S. Thibaut, Auteur ; J. F. Michelet, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 167-173 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie
Antioxydants
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Elisa, TestLe test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée.
Génétique
Inhibiteurs (chimie)
Prolyl hydroxylase
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à -dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : The aim of this study was first to demonstrate that a combination of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol could synergize in vitro on biological pathways associated with hair growth and then to demonstrate the benefit on hair density in a clinical study.
- METHODS : The effects of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol directly on the hypoxic inducible factor-1α protein (HIF-1α) and related genes expression were demonstrated on keratinocytes in culture in vitro using western-blot analysis and real time quantitative polymerase chain reaction analysis. The effect of resveratrol against oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide treatment was studied in hair follicle and hair matrix cells in vitro using the sensitive probe Dichloro-dihydro-fluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). Finally, a randomized clinical study on hair density was conducted on 79 Caucasian female subjects to assess the effect of this combination of actives.
- RESULTS : Pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol stabilized HIF-1a protein and increased the expression of HIF-1α target genes. Resveratrol significantly reduced the oxygen peroxide-induced oxidative stress generated in hair follicle and hair matrix cells. The clinical study showed that a topical treatment with the combination significantly increased the hair density on women from 1.5 months.
- CONCLUSION : In addition to the antioxidant properties of resveratrol, the association of pyridine-2, 4-dicarboxylic acid diethyl ester and resveratrol revealed a synergistic effect on the HIF-1α pathway. The results of the clinical study confirmed the importance of such a combination to increase the hair density.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Actives - Keratinocyte culture - RT-qPCR and Wester blot analysis - Isolation and culture of human hair follicles and matrix cells - Generation of reactive oxygen species and protection by resveratrol in hair follicles and hair matrix cells - Clinical study
- RESULTS : Stimulation of the HIF-1 α pathway - Protection towards oxidative stress in hair follicles and matrix cells - Clinical efficacy on women hair densityDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12600 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34507
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators / Keith R. Millington in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Keith R. Millington, Auteur ; J. M. Marsh, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 174-184 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Antioxydants
Chélates
Cheveux -- Effets du rayonnement ultraviolet
Fluorescence
Photodétérioration
Radicaux libres (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (terephthalate) and free radical photoyellowing, were used. These methods utilized different UV sources and reaction conditions, and so can give insights into the different mechanisms of action occurring during UV oxidation of hair. In addition, this study demonstrates how antioxidants and chelators can be screened to determine whether they can protect hair from UV damage.
- RESULTS : The three methods gave somewhat different results, illustrating the importance of reaction conditions and wavelength on the photochemical mechanisms, and the efficacy of additives to influence these reactions. EPR results showed that N-acetylcysteine (NAC) pre-treatment eliminated the intensity of the signal because of sulphur and carbon free radicals in white hair both before and after exposure to UVB radiation. Doping the hair with copper ions had no effect on the intensity of the EPR signal under dry conditions. Terephthalate fluorescent probe data showed that under wet conditions, irradiation of white hair with UVA produced significant amounts of hydroxyl radicals. Pre-treatment of hair with NAC reduced the number of •OH radicals produced by natural white hair compared to an untreated control. In contrast to the EPR result, white hair doped with copper ions produced significantly higher levels of •OH radicals under wet conditions. It appears that the ability of copper ions to catalyse the photogeneration free radicals in hair is highly dependent on water content. Photoyellowing data showed a benefit for oxalic acid but no difference for NAC and an increase in yellowing for EDTA.
- CONCLUSION : The micro-EPR and terephthalate fluorescent probe methods are both effective techniques to study production of free radicals by hair exposed to UV light under wet and dry conditions, respectively. Both assays are simple methods for determining the effectiveness of potential protective hair treatments against UV damage, but because they assess free radical damage under dry vs wet conditions, the chemistry created on UV exposure is different. This gives insights into mechanism of action, but results may not be consistent between the two methods for actives added for reduction of UV damage. NAC pre-treatment did reduce free radical generation in UV-exposed hair under both wet and dry conditions. Photoyellowing data are more complicated as it is a less direct measure of UV damage and is highly dependent on irradiation source. Using UVB irradiation is experimentally convenient but may not be appropriate, because UVB wavelengths comprise only 0.3% of terrestrial sunlight. The photochemistry of hair exposed to sunlight involves concurrent photobleaching and photoyellowing processes and is far more complex. Under UVB irradiation conditions, oxalic acid showed a yellowing benefit.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemical treatments of hair tresses - EPR spectroscopy - Terephthalate fluorescence assay for hydroxyl (OH) radicals in UVA-exposed hair - Photoyellowing experiments - Colour measurement
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : EPR studies - Terephthalate fluorescence assay for hydroxyl (OH) radicals - Colour changes and photoyellowingDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12601 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34508
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution / Y. Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. Zhang, Auteur ; R. Jiang, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; E Elmozino, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; Jerome Coquide, Auteur ; S. Dwivedi, Auteur ; L. Sarda-Dutilh, Auteur ; Vincent Arcin, Auteur ; Parham Aarabi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 185-197 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automatisation
Chinois(e)s
Dermatologie
Etudes cliniques
Hommes
Intelligence artificielle
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Pollution -- Effets physiologiques
Système de classementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men.
- METHODS : In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition.
- RESULTS :
- The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts’ assessments.
- In both cases (expert’s or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent.
- The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city.
- In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert’s assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts.
- CONCLUSION : Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert’s assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and conditions of provacy in the collection of smartphones selfie pictures (Study 1) - Facial signs analysed by automatic grading system (Studies 1 and 2) - Evaluation and grading of facial skinageing signs (Studies 1 and 2) - Principle of development of an automatic detection of facial signs from smartphone photographs (Study A) - Training and evaluation of the robustness of the automatic scoring system (Study 1) - Applied case on clinical impact of aerial urban pollution (UP in Chinese men (Study 2) - Statistics (Studies 1 and 2)
- RESULTS : Prediction potential of the automatic scoring system (Study 1) - Assessment of UP clinical impacts in Chinese men by automatic grading system (Study 2) - Answers fromthe questionnaire of Study 2)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12602 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34509
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sensory perception of textural properties of cosmetic Pickering emulsions in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
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Titre : Sensory perception of textural properties of cosmetic Pickering emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 198-207 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Dioxyde de silicium
Dioxyde de titane
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Emulsions pickering
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Oxyde de zinc
Surfactants
VectorisationRésumé : - OBJECTIVE : The increasing interest for the Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility to replace classical emulsifiers by the solid particles. This approach is extremely attractive for the cosmetic field. But, the main difficulty is to obtain stable emulsions with appreciable skin feel. However, there is no information about the texture of such systems. The aim of this study is to formulate and describe the textural properties of cosmetic Pickering emulsions compared with conventional systems.
- METHODS : Three metal oxides were selected : titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide, able to form stable and totally emulsified systems. A conventional emulsifier was used to formulate the emulsion of reference. Finally, the mixture of two emulsifying systems, combining both, surfactant and particles, was also studied. Then, a sensory panel was asked to quantify the intensities of the perception of the seven discriminating attributes.
- RESULTS : Each particle brought its properties to the textural perception of the emulsion. TiO2 particles ensured the whitening effect of the emulsions, SiO2 provided the screech residue, whereas ZnO gave intermediate results. The conventional surfactant was perceived as glossy, greasy and more difficult to spread. The particle/surfactant mixtures gave mostly in-between results.
- CONCLUSIONS : The study shows that the sensory profile of Pickering emulsions is indirectly and directly governed by the particle properties used for the emulsion stabilization: indirectly, through affecting the emulsion orientation (oil in water or water in oil), the droplet organization and viscosity, and directly, through the particle perception on the skin surface.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Systems and characterization - Emulsions formulation - Emulsions aspect - Sensory analysis - Data analysis
- RESULTS : Individual properties of formulated systems - Sensory properties of pickering emulsions compared with conventional systems - Comparison of three systems containing 4% of the emulsifier - Comparison of three systems containing 10% of the emulsifier - The particle effectDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12604 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34510
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 198-207[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Designing high-performance colour cosmetics through optimization of powder flow characteristics / X. Liu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
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Titre : Designing high-performance colour cosmetics through optimization of powder flow characteristics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : X. Liu, Auteur ; C. Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 208-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Compressibilité
Essais dynamiques
Fluides, Mécanique des
Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Rhéologie
RhéométrieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - METHODS : FT4 Powder Rheometer from Freeman Technology was utilized to explore various powder compositions. The three major tests performed were flowability test, compressibility test and shear cell test.
- RESULTS : The results highlight that the sample which has higher compressibility has the better cake strength, and the sample which requires lower total energy has better pay‐off. Particles or samples with lower total flow energy, should have easier flow, therefore, should have better pay-off. Samples and components with higher compressibility, should hold the structure better, therefore, should have better cake strength. Talc has the highest compressibility and lowest flow energy. Foundation sample 5 has the highest concentration of talc and also has the best performance.
- CONCLUSIONS : The lower the total flow energy, the easier it is for the powder to flow, and have better pay-off. Powder compressibility correlates with cake strength which means that a sample with better compressibility consequently has the better cake strength. Samples 5 and 10 require less total flow energy, have lower shear stress, and higher compressibility, therefore, have better final performance. Both samples 5 and 10 have higher talc concentrations compared to other formulations.DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12608 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34511
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Toical niacinamide does not stimulate hair growth based on the existing body of evidence / John. E Oblong in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
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Titre : Toical niacinamide does not stimulate hair growth based on the existing body of evidence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John. E Oblong, Auteur ; A. W. Peplow, Auteur ; S. M. Hartmann, Auteur ; M. G. Davis, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 217-219 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance
NicotinamideIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Niacinamide has been suggested to impact hair biology via stimulation of VEGF synthesis. Testing in an in vitro VEGF synthesis assay, it was found that niacinamide cannot stimulate VEGF synthesis across a broad dose–response range. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12599 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34512
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 217-219[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Code-barres | Cote | Support | Localisation | Section | Disponibilité |
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21862 | - | Périodique | Bibliothèque principale | Documentaires | Disponible |