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Ageing profiles of caucasian and chinese cohorts - focus on hands skin / C. Messaraa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 1 (02/2019)
[article]
Titre : Ageing profiles of caucasian and chinese cohorts - focus on hands skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Messaraa, Auteur ; L. Doyle, Auteur ; A. Mansfield, Auteur ; C. O'Connor, Auteur ; Alain Mavon, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 79-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s
Chinois(e)s
Imagerie optique
Mains
Mesures biophysiques
Peau -- Physiologie
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIF : Même si le soin pour les mains demeure un segment dynamique en termes de ventes de produits cosmétiques, peu d’études se sont penchées sur la physiologie de la peau des mains en comparaison du visage. Le but de cette étude est d’élucider les changements de la partie dorsale de la main induits par le vieillissement, au sein de deux groupes ethniques (Caucasienne et Chinoise).
- METHODES : Des mesures de la topographie, de couleur et de distribution de la couleur, de chromophores et des propriétés biophysiques de la peau de la main ont été collectées sur 116 sujets féminins d'origine caucasienne ou chinoise, âgées entre 30 et 65 ans, en Irlande et en Chine dans le cadre d'une étude cross‐sectionnelle.
- RESULTATS : Des altérations de la topographie de la peau ont été observés à plusieurs échelles, micro et macroscopique, avec néanmoins un délai de 10 ans dans la détérioration de la peau en faveur du panel Chinois. Au niveau de la couleur, des évolutions similaires ont été mesurées dans les deux panels, avec cependant de fortes dissimilarités pour ce qui est de la distribution de la couleur de la peau et de l'hyperconcentration de mélanine, avec des changements retardés de 20 ans en faveur du panel d'origine chinoise. Un déclin d'hydratation significatif s'est produit à partir de la soixantaine dans les deux panels étudiés tandis que des différences flagrantes ont été relevées en ce qui concerne les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau.
- CONCLUSION : Ces résultats offre des données supplémentaires sur la physiologie de la peau des mains lors du vieillissement cutané et sur les différences à prendre en compte entre deux groupes ethniques très distincts, surtout si l'on considère les différences avec le vieillissement du visage. Cette étude fournit un support additionnel pour la conception de crèmes pour les mains et les stratégies à mettre en place pour atténuer l'apparence de mains âgées.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Study panels - Topographic, colour and chromophores measurements - Biophysical measurements - Statistical Analysis
- RESULTS : Topographic profiles - Colour & colour heterogeneity profiles - Chromophore profiles - Biophysics profilesDOI : 10.1111/ics.12514 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13k6aGzkjXtGsTsiwThQtIPYu9S1DsS9-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32099
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 1 (02/2019) . - p. 79-87[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20744 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Assessing changes in some facial signs of fatigue in Chinese women, induced by a single working day / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 1 (02/2019)
[article]
Titre : Assessing changes in some facial signs of fatigue in Chinese women, induced by a single working day Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; H. Qiu, Auteur ; A. Abric, Auteur ; A. Charbonneau, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 21-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s
Dermatologie
Etudes cliniques
Fatigue
Peau -- Perception visuelle
Stress lié au travailIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - CONTEXTE : Les impacts de la fatigue physique, induite par une journée de travail, sur quelques signes faciaux ont été étudiés chez des femmes Caucasiennes. L'objectif de la présente étude visait à déterminer ceux éprouvés par des femmes Chinoises dans des conditions comparables.
- MATERIELS ET METHODES : Des photographies standardisées de 60 femmes Chinoises (20–40 ans), travaillant dans la même entreprise, ont été prises durant leur journée de travail, à trois occasions (matin avant, 4 heures et 8 heures après). Ces photos ont permis de focaliser sur certains signes faciaux dont les sévérités ont alors été scorées, selon un Atlas référentiel de la peau Asiatique. Un panel naïf de 64 femmes Chinoises (20–60 ans) a utilisé une échelle analogique (0–10) pour évaluer l'aspect général du visage, particulièrement sur son aspect fatigué, l'aspect terne de son teint ou donner un âge apparent à chaque sujet. Les comparaisons des photographies par tests par paires, en aveugle et aléatoire, (T0/T4, T4/T8, T0/T8) demandaient au panel naïf de déterminer quelle photographie montrait un aspect plus jeune ou plus âgé ou un teint plus ou moins terne.
- RESULTATS : Une journée de travail induit chez des femmes Chinoises des modifications de certains signes faciaux (Sillon nasogénien, rides inter‐oculaires et péri‐orbitales, pores visibles de la joue). Ces derniers apparaissent plus marqués entre T0 et T4 que T4 et T8. Comparés à ceux observés chez des femmes Caucasiennes, ces modifications, bien que subtiles, sont de plus grande ampleur et concernent des signes différents. Le panel naïf a décrit une augmentation de l'aspect fatigué et terne du teint le long de la journée, plus marqués encore chez les femmes les plus âgées (31–45 ans). De plus, teint terne, aspect fatigué et âge apparent ont été trouvés étroitement liés.
- CONCLUSION : En dépit de quelques possibles différentes conditions de travail, certains signes faciaux des femmes Chinoises semblent plus affectés par une fatigue induite par une journée de travail en milieu urbain que des femmes Caucasiennes dans des conditions comparables.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Expert panel : evaluation and grading of facial signs - Naïve panel - Protocol - Statistics
- RESULTS : Gradings from the experts panel - Assessments by the naïve panel - Intercorrelations between the three items through Principal Components Analysis (PCA)DOI : 10.1111/ics.12506 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FDgM1y66hJPCpm3X9MjzeSIF6bqj2SVa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32091
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20744 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)
[article]
Titre : Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Abric, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; C. Caron, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 452-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s
Dermatologie
Hommes
Perception de l'âge
Signes du visageIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages.
- Material and methods : Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to : (i) attribute on a 0–10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject.
- Results : With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2–10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look.
- Conclusion : Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Appraisal by a native panel - Statistics
- RESULTS : Correlation between perceived age (PA) and real age (RA) - Facial signs and real ages - Facial signs and perceived ages - Influence of tired-look and healthy glow on PA - Relationships between the tired-look criterion on the gradings of facial signs and their clusters
- Table 1 : Distribution of Chinese men with age cluster
- Table 2 : 15 clinical facial signs and their respective photographic scale's ranges for Chinese men
- Table 3 : Correlations of facial signs and perceived ages (PA), all ages included
- Table 4 : Correlations between tired-look, healthy glow, PA and RA in Chinese men at all ages and under or before their forties
- Table 5 : Correlations of facial signs grades with tired-look for all age groupsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12649 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iL-fEdmtgXsm9aKHLZuGNiQkaFDsxWuQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35410
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 452-461[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)
[article]
Titre : A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 703-718 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s
Cornéométrie
Cosmétiques
Couche cornée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Hydratation
Mesure
Produits hydratants
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVES : The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.
- METHODS : We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results.
- RESULTS : The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin.
- CONCLUSIONS : Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered.Note de contenu : - Study population and general approach
- Expert grading of facial dryness and roughness (whole face)
- Bio-instrumental evaluation
- Creation of facial colour maps for skin hydration, Δ% and correlation
- Statistical analysis
- Table 1 : Scales for expert gradings of facial dryness and facial roughness
- Table 2 : Mapping layout, description of the 30 predefined facial measurement points
- Table 3 : Summary of data and evaluationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12814 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VI5F2j9CH50jwWeiA2VCrnG2AcV1NBht/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38393
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 703-718[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Comprehensive model for characterizing skin translucency by expert grading, panel evaluation and image analysis in a Chinese population / Di Qu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)
[article]
Titre : Comprehensive model for characterizing skin translucency by expert grading, panel evaluation and image analysis in a Chinese population Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Di Qu, Auteur ; Xiaojuan Wang, Auteur ; Jianwei Liu, Auteur ; Ziqi Wu, Auteur ; Carla Kuesten, Auteur ; Weiyi Hu, Auteur ; Hirono Totsuka, Auteur ; Yinbei Chen, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 500-513 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image.
Chinois(e)s
Modèles numériques
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
Statistiques
Translucidité (optique)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Translucent skin is an attribute widely appreciated by people in East Asian countries. There have been studies in the literature to describe the phenomenon by means of clinical grading, instrumental measurement and image analysis. However, due to its subjective and complex nature, skin translucency has not been comprehensively and rigorously characterized and modelled, particularly in the Chinese population. This study is to develop a mathematical model that quantitatively describes skin translucency from visual cues objectively measured from the skin.
- Materials and Methods : The study was designed to characterize and model skin translucency by incorporating expert evaluation, panel perception and image analysis of multiple skin visual attributes in one analysis. Faces of 36 Chinese females aged 18–65 years old were evaluated by a dermatologist to obtain clinical translucency scores. Subject pairs were formed with a relatively high and low translucency score in each pair. Their faces were judged in person by 9 panellists in paired-comparison (2-AFC) fashion to pick a ‘more translucent skin’ from each subject pair. Front-view facial images of the subjects were taken, and multiple colour and other visually perceivable skin attributes were measured using image analysis. Bradley-Terry analysis and multiple regressions were performed to correlate the panel choices of ‘more translucent skin’ with the objectively measured skin parameters.
- Results : Multiple skin colour properties affected the panel choices towards translucent skin. Among them skin tone lightness and skin glossiness had positive effects on skin translucency while the hue, colour unevenness, severity of red and dark spots affected it negatively. Subsurface light reflection and skin visual smoothness had some effect but were not statistically significant. A mathematical model was constructed to predict a person's skin translucency from objectively measured skin attributes.
- Conclusion : The subjective property of skin translucency can be characterized and quantified via a comprehensive modelling process involving clinical grading, panel evaluation, image-based measurement of skin attributes and statistical analysis. A novel skin parameter, Skin Translucency Index (STI) was established, which provides a way to measure skin translucency, making it possible to assess treatment efficacy before and after product application.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and facility - Expert grading and skin colour measurement - Panel perception - Quantification of panel perception results - Image capture and analysis - Modelling
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Distributions of objectively measured skin visual attributes - Panel responses - Modelling - Validation of STI model - ApplicationDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12798 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TSp-NkxV6MaUpTS4php3e7dBzZDuuZLc/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38149
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 500-513[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Correlation study between image features and mechanical properties of Han Chinese facial skin / L. Ma in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 1 (02/2017)
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PermalinkInfluence of skin ageing features on chinese women's perception of facial age and attractiveness / Aurélie Porcheron in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 4 (08/2014)
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