Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 450-461 Titre : Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 450-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Asiatiques Etudes cliniques Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau asiatique Perception de l'âge Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities. - Materials and Methods : Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20–60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions. - Results : These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Cities,weather conditions - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by a naïve panel (perceptions by 'the others') - Statistics - RESULTS : Answers form questionnaire - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by the naïve panel (age perceptions by 'the others') DOI : 10.1111/ics12558 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zLFkcTex4UqjjSxHaEeiFiyCW2gzJzm0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33203 [article]

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Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 452-461 Titre : Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Abric, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; C. Caron, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 452-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Dermatologie Hommes Perception de l'âge Signes du visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages. - Material and methods : Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to : (i) attribute on a 0–10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject. - Results : With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2–10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look. - Conclusion : Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Appraisal by a native panel - Statistics - RESULTS : Correlation between perceived age (PA) and real age (RA) - Facial signs and real ages - Facial signs and perceived ages - Influence of tired-look and healthy glow on PA - Relationships between the tired-look criterion on the gradings of facial signs and their clusters - Table 1 : Distribution of Chinese men with age cluster - Table 2 : 15 clinical facial signs and their respective photographic scale's ranges for Chinese men - Table 3 : Correlations of facial signs and perceived ages (PA), all ages included - Table 4 : Correlations between tired-look, healthy glow, PA and RA in Chinese men at all ages and under or before their forties - Table 5 : Correlations of facial signs grades with tired-look for all age groups DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12649 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iL-fEdmtgXsm9aKHLZuGNiQkaFDsxWuQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35410 [article]

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Consequences of urban pollution upon skin status. A controlled study in Shanghai area / Marc-André Lefèbvre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 3 (06/2016)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 38, N° 3 (06/2016) . - p. 217-223 Titre : Consequences of urban pollution upon skin status. A controlled study in Shanghai area Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marc-André Lefèbvre, Auteur ; Dang Man Pham, Auteur ; B. Boussouira, Auteur ; H. Qiu, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; X. Long, Auteur ; R. Chen, Auteur ; W. Gu, Auteur ; A. Laurent, Auteur ; Q.-L. Nguyen, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 217-223 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biochimie clinique Chimie analytique Etudes cliniques Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Physiologie Pollution -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIF : A la suite d’études préliminaires, l'effet de la pollution sur la peau humaine a été évalué au cours d'une étude portant sur 159 sujets répartis sur deux zones de Shanghai. - METHODE : L’étude a été conduite durant l’été 2008, à Xu Jia Hui (zone plus exposée à la pollution, typiquement urbaine, centre-ville) et à Chong Ming (une zone agricole proche au Nord de Shanghai (<100 kms) et moins exposée à la pollution. Les paramètres biochimiques de la peau ont été mesurés et les évaluations des volontaires ont été obtenues à l'aide de réponses à un questionnaire gradué de type Lickert (approuve fortement, approuve, désapprouve, désapprouve fortement, pas d'avis). - RESULTATS : L’étude a démontré des différences significatives touchant plusieurs paramètres biochimiques superficiels de la peau chez les sujets vivant à Chong Ming comparativement à ceux de la zone urbaine : une augmentation du rapport squalène/lipides totaux, une diminution de l'acide lactique ainsi qu'une meilleure cohésion des cornéocytes. Aucune différence n'a été notée dans l'excrétion de sébum. L’évaluation par les volontaires a confirmé l'impact de la pollution dans la qualité de leur peau. - CONCLUSION : Cette étude a démontré un impact significatif de la pollution sur la qualité de la peau, tel qu'illustré par des modifications des paramètres biochimiques superficiels et par l'auto-évaluation des volontaires. DOI : 10.1111/ics.12270 En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12270 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26378 [article]

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Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 443-449 Titre : Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; I. Seyrek, Auteur ; G. François, Auteur ; T. Zhu, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 443-449 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Femmes Groupe ethnique Sourcils Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages. - Materials and Methods : Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18–84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density). - Results : Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001). - Conclusion : The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Protocol - Reproducibility of the image markings - Statistics - Retained parameters - RESULTS : Lengths of the eyebrows - Waviness of the eyebrows - Horizontality of the eyebrows - Magnitudes of the eyebrows DOI : 10.1111/ics12557 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18PZD6gtkLBN3dZyhzZiJwOPYFpFmF5kk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33202 [article]

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A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution / Y. Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 185-197 Titre : A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. Zhang, Auteur ; R. Jiang, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; E Elmozino, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; Jerome Coquide, Auteur ; S. Dwivedi, Auteur ; L. Sarda-Dutilh, Auteur ; Vincent Arcin, Auteur ; Parham Aarabi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 185-197 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automatisation Chinois(e)s Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Hommes Intelligence artificielle Peau -- analyse Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Pollution -- Effets physiologiques Système de classement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men. - METHODS : In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition. - RESULTS : - The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts’ assessments. - In both cases (expert’s or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent. - The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city. - In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert’s assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts. - CONCLUSION : Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert’s assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and conditions of provacy in the collection of smartphones selfie pictures (Study 1) - Facial signs analysed by automatic grading system (Studies 1 and 2) - Evaluation and grading of facial skinageing signs (Studies 1 and 2) - Principle of development of an automatic detection of facial signs from smartphone photographs (Study A) - Training and evaluation of the robustness of the automatic scoring system (Study 1) - Applied case on clinical impact of aerial urban pollution (UP in Chinese men (Study 2) - Statistics (Studies 1 and 2) - RESULTS : Prediction potential of the automatic scoring system (Study 1) - Assessment of UP clinical impacts in Chinese men by automatic grading system (Study 2) - Answers fromthe questionnaire of Study 2) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12602 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EjjDjnL74zFGn5OriVSfvKaqQN35bOVe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34509 [article]

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Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

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