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Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing : a review / M. A. Ruiz Martinez in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 529-535 Titre : Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing : a review Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : M. A. Ruiz Martinez, Auteur ; S. Peralta Galisteo, Auteur ; H. Castàn, Auteur ; M. E. Morales Hernandez, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 529-535 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protéoglycanes Un protéoglycane est une glycoprotéine, combinaison d'une protéine et d'un glycosaminoglycane (GAG). L'association entre les deux types de chaîne s'effectue essentiellement dans l'appareil de Golgi, mais également au niveau du réticulum endoplasmique d'une cellule. La proportion de glucides des protéoglycanes peut atteindre 95 %. Ceux-ci se présentant sous la forme d'une ou plusieurs chaînes de glycosaminoglycanes non ramifiées. Les chaînes de sucres sont très longues mais pas ramifiées. Ils sont O-glycosylés, se lient à l'acide aminé sérine à l'extrémité OH. Les protéoglycanes peuvent être soit transportés à l'extérieur de la cellule par exocytose (s'intégrant alors à la matrice extracellulaire sous forme de chondroïtine-sulfate, kératan-sulfate, héparan-sulfate, dermatan-sulfate, etc.), soit entrer dans la constitution de la membrane plasmique ou du glycocalyx, jouant alors un rôle dans les relations cellule-matrice. Les PG (protéoglycanes) ont des compositions et poids moléculaire très variés et sont hétérogènes au niveau de leur structure et de leur fonction. Les protéoglycanes sont des composants essentiels de la matrice extracellulaire. Ce sont des pièges à eau qui sont importants pour les propriétés mécaniques des tissus cartilagineux par exemple. Les héparan sulfates peuvent avoir un rôle dans la signalisation : ce sont des co-récepteurs pour les FGF (Fibroblast Growth Factor). Les protéoglycanes jouent aussi un rôle dans la diffusion des molécules de signalisation (Wnt, Shh), ou bien en interagissant avec des inhibiteurs (Noggin). (Wikipedia) Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This work analyses the role of proteoglycans on skin ageing, influenced by the presence of glycosylated proteins, which exercise diverse functions on the skin. They are essential components that restore the cells, providing hydration, maintaining hydration of the extracellular matrix, preventing the formation of wrinkles thanks to their ability to combine to other molecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid and favouring the smoothness of the skin texture. The use of these proteins is a very recent and promising topic, since their application may revolutionize skin ageing therapies. Of the existing proteoglycans, decorin, versican and perlecan are of special note, playing a fundamental role on skin. Note de contenu : - Substances used to treat skin ageing - Proteoglycans - Classification - Proteoglycans of the skin : Decorin - Perlecan - Versican DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12660 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1191q-Pd12g5_nVIbzrhXeTTywSJh5JiP/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35418 [article]

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Rheological fingerprinting as an effective tool to guide development of personal care formulations / S. Ozkan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 536-547 Titre : Rheological fingerprinting as an effective tool to guide development of personal care formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Ozkan, Auteur ; C. Alonso, Auteur ; Roger L. McMullen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 536-547 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Composés lamellaires Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Polymères Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Conventional rheological techniques in the linear viscoelastic region provide insights about the spatial configuration of the microstructural components of personal care formulations in their ‘at‐rest’ state. However, they fail to describe the textural experience associated with large and fast deformations during daily consumer application. In this study we present a non‐conventional rheological technique : large amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS)—for probing the transformation of a material during its application. This technique is proposed a practical tool for formulators in their efforts to design products with desired textural attributes. - Methods : A non‐linear rheological technique termed LAOS was utilized to capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots (stress vs. strain or strain rate) provide a fingerprint of the formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry, molecular properties, colloidal parameters and processing conditions. - Results : In this study, we showcased several approaches for modifying the texture of personal care formulations and show the influence of various parameters on the characteristics of the Lissajous curves and their relation to sensorial perception. This fingerprinting technique shows that increasing the molecular weight or hydrophobic modification boosts the elasticity and thickening efficiency of a given polymer. Differences in the chemistry of rheological ingredients also influence the characteristic Lissajous fingerprint. In high concentration surfactant systems, which tend to form worm‐like micelles, their unique Lissajous fingerprints indicate structure rebuild because of fast kinetics at large but slow deformations. Analysis of lamellar gel‐based hair conditioner formulations demonstrates the unique high yield stress of these types of materials, accompanied by the fast breakdown transition from a solid to viscous structure because of their crystalline lamellar gel structure. - Conclusion : The LAOS technique presented in this article is intended to better capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots—generated from the LAOS experimental data—provide a fingerprint of the tested formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry and molecular weight of the thickener, pH of the formula medium and influence of other ingredients in the formula (surfactants, emulsifiers, etc.). Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Hair conditioner formulations thickened with lamellar gel structure and HMHEC. The pH was adjusted with citric acid - Table 2 : Table 2 DSC data for three formulation prototype hair conditioners : low gel phase without polymer, low gel phase with HMHEC and normal (high) gel phase without polymer - Table 3 : Transparent hair conditioner formulas containing HEC and HPMC as thickening polymers at different pH levels. The pH was adjusted with citric acid. †See text for description En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1azWiP1_-vXyM6m3kqxntInRFfD5sSeeu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35419 [article]

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Preparation and evaluation of caffeine bioadhesive emulgels for cosmetic applications based on formulation design using QbD tools / Y. de Lafuente in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 548-556 Titre : Preparation and evaluation of caffeine bioadhesive emulgels for cosmetic applications based on formulation design using QbD tools Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Y. de Lafuente, Auteur ; Maria Emma Parente, Auteur ; M. C. Palena, Auteur ; A. F. Jimenez-Kairuz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 548-556 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adhésifs biologiques Caféine Caractérisation Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Médicaments -- Administration par voie cutanée Médicaments dermatologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of the present study was to evaluate the influence of the incorporation of caffeine as a model active ingredient on the quality attributes of a bioadhesive emulgel formulation previously optimized by Quality by Design (QbD) tools. Emulgels are emerging topical drug delivery systems for cosmetic or pharmaceutical uses, which combine the advantages of both emulsions and gels. - Methods : In this work, the observed and predicted values for spreadability, phase separation by centrifugation and detachment forces performed by texturometer were compared with those of the control and active‐containing emulgel formulations. In addition, rheological properties, release of caffeine and comparative in vitro/ex vivo bioadhesion properties were evaluated using human skin. - Results : The flow curves of emulgel formulations showed the typical pseudoplastic and no thixotropic flow with yield stress. The incorporation of active ingredient did not produce significant changes. All emulgels were uniformly spread and no significant differences in spreadability values between control and caffeine containing formulations and neither respect to those predicted values from experimental design optimization were found. Emulgel formulations showed appropriate detachment forces values and no significant differences between caffeine loading and control emulgel formulations were observed. - Conclusion : Caffeine was successfully vehiculized in this optimized bioadhesive emulgel formulation, which showed high robustness regarding the process variability. There were no significant changes in the critical quality attributes after the incorporation of the active ingredient and a promising stability was observed for at least one year. Results suggested that the optimized emulgel is an interesting topical biodhesive delivery system for cosmetic applications, including agents for skin conditioning, not present in gels formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of emulgels - Preparation of compounded creams - Characterization of emulgels - Skin membrane preparation - Determination of Caffeine concentration by HPLC - Stability evaluation - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological studies - Spreadability - Physical stability - Adhesion and bioadhesion properties - Drug release studies - Stability evaluation - Table 1 : Qualitative and quantitative formula of optimized emulgel - Table 2 : Quality attributes of freshly prepared emulgels (time = 0) and stored at 25°C and 60% RH during 1 year. Data expressed as main values with standard deviations (N = 3) - Table 3 : Detachment forces (Fdetach) of emulgel and compounded creams loaded with CAF and control formulations, measured at 32°C - Table 4 : In vitro release parameters of caffeine from emulgel and compounded cream using diffusional Higuchi kinetic model. Both formulations contained 10 mg mL-1 of caffeine DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12638 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kDZNJlS5f3c8X1MarU4uVFf8JZ4POw7R/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35420 [article]

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Design of high-performance curling mascara through utilization of smart thermoresponsive polymer / S. Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 557-563 Titre : Design of high-performance curling mascara through utilization of smart thermoresponsive polymer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Chen, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 557-563 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Effet mémoire de forme Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Mascaras Oscillation dynamique Polymères thermo-réactifs Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In this study, methoxy poly(ethylene glycol)-b-poly(D,L-lactide), or mPEG-PLA, was used as the smart thermoresponsive polymer in our mascara formulation. The utility of mPEG-PLA in a mascara formulation was investigated by a stepwise build-up in an oil in water (O/W) emulsion. The experimental results may pave the way to a strategy of developing more cosmetic formulation with thermoresponsive shape memory polymers (SMPs). - Method : mPEG-PLA was first incorporated in a simple emulsion for rheological evaluation such as shear flow viscosity and small deformation oscillation measurements over the relevant temperature settings to mascara application. Then, wax and pigment were incorporated to complete the basic formulation as an O/W mascara and evaluated rheologically as before. Finally, the formulation was applied by a heated mascara applicator to false lashes to evaluate its curing and lifting effect. - Results : With 0.8% concentration of mPEG-PLA, the viscosity was able to increase from 0.20 Pas•s to 1.00 Pas•s. At 1.0% concentration of mPEG-PLA, the emulsion samples with mineral oil were evaluated from 55°C to 25°C for its storage modulus (G’) and were found to have a consistent shear-thinning characteristic across all temperature range. The sample containing the polymer (M-1) arrived at a markedly higher elasticity when compared against the sample without (M-0). The same result holds true for the set of samples formulated with beeswax instead of mineral oil. When the formulations were applied with a heated mascara applicator on false eyelashes, the formulation containing mPEG-PLA was found to produce a more pronounced and longer-lasting curl. - Conclusion : This preliminary rheological study of an O/W mascara containing mPEG-PLA demonstrated that thermoresponsive SMP can be added to enhance the curl and lifting effect of a mascara formulation. Note de contenu : - Dynamical rheological study - Mascara performance - Table 1 : Samples formulation M-1 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12639 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OBv1Meqi82VzcqwsowhgQFeMJAgcGxld/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35421 [article]

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Carbon dioxide ameliorates reduced desquamation in dry scaly skin via protease activation / Satoko Fukagawa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 564-572 Titre : Carbon dioxide ameliorates reduced desquamation in dry scaly skin via protease activation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Satoko Fukagawa, Auteur ; Ayami Takahashi, Auteur ; Keimon Sayama, Auteur ; Shinobu Mori, Auteur ; Takatoshi Murase, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 564-572 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Desquamation Dioxyde de carbone Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptidases Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Scaling, a phenomenon showing an abnormal detachment of the stratum corneum (SC) owing to desquamation dysfunction, is commonly observed in various skin diseases or xerotic skin due to ageing and low humidity. Therefore, it is considered that ameliorating the disturbed desquamatory process of the SC leads to improvement in scaling. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is known to be good for some skin diseases; however, the effect of CO2 on scaling and its mechanism are not sufficiently clear. We aimed to elucidate the effect of transepidermal application of CO2 on scaling and its mechanism of action. - Methods : Twenty healthy men with mild scaling on the cheeks were recruited for a double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study. They applied the formulation containing CO2 twice daily for 1 week. After the study, the SC was collected by tape stripping to analyse desquamatory protease activities and degradation of extracellular corneodesmosomes. Furthermore, the contribution of pH to proteolysis of the corneodesmosome by CO2 was evaluated using three-dimensional (3D) cultured epidermal models. - Results : The spectroscopic absorbance of tape strips, used as scaling indicators, was decreased, concomitantly with the amelioration of incomplete degradation of desmoglein-1, one of the main corneodesmosomal proteins, and activation of trypsin-like protease in the SC by transepidermal application of CO2. Experiments using 3D cultured epidermis showed that pH in the epidermal tissue was lowered by CO2, whereas a pH change was not observed with the application of the formulation containing hydrochloric acid, which was added to equalize the pH to that of the CO2 formulation. - Conclusion : The transcutaneous application of CO2 ameliorates reduced desquamatory process in xerotic skin, with concomitant mild acidification of the SC, thereby leading to improvement in scaling. Thus, CO2 may have an advantage of efficiently and safely counteracting scaling of various skin disorders. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test samples - Subjects and study - Cell culture - Immunohistochemistry - Measurement of protease activities - In situ zymography - Western blot analysis - Measurement of pH - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Effects of CO2 on the dry scaly skin condition of the cheeks - Effects of CO2 on the corneodesmosomal protein and desquamatory proteases of the cheeks - Effects of CO2 on the corneodesmosomal protein and desquamatory proteases of the 3D epidermal model - Effect of CO2 on pH in the 3D cultured epidermis - Table 1 : Antibodies used for immunohistochemistry and Western blot analysis - Table 2 : 2 Substrate and standard reagents used for the protease activity assay DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12641 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LvCKfSMbieYG97kGwPntfr8pY7d5mYJa/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35422 [article]

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Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles / Constantina Eleni Drakontis in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 573-580 Titre : Design of sustainable lip gloss formulation with biosurfactants and silica particles Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Constantina Eleni Drakontis, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 573-580 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Brillant à lèvres Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Particules (matières) Rhamnolipides Silice La silice est la forme naturelle du dioxyde de silicium (SiO2) qui entre dans la composition de nombreux minéraux. La silice existe à l'état libre sous différentes formes cristallines ou amorphes et à l'état combiné dans les silicates, les groupes SiO2 étant alors liés à d'autres atomes (Al : Aluminium, Fe : Fer, Mg : Magnésium, Ca : Calcium, Na : Sodium, K : Potassium...). Les silicates sont les constituants principaux du manteau et de l'écorce terrestre. La silice libre est également très abondante dans la nature, sous forme de quartz, de calcédoine et de terre de diatomée. La silice représente 60,6 % de la masse de la croûte terrestre continentale. Sophorolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main objective of this study was to design a sustainable lip gloss from water-in-oil emulsions by understanding the rheology of combining biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids) with silica particles (Aerosil powders). The different parameters consisted of the silica particle diameter size, the concentration of the particles within the formulation, alongside the different types of biosurfactant and oils used. The experimental results could provide information on the formulation design of cosmetic emulsions such as lip products and foundations. - Methods : One parameter was varied each time, while the rest were kept constant in order to determine their effect on the viscosity profile of the formulations. A traditional mechanical rheometer was used in order to measure the bulk viscosity profiles of the different formulations, over a wide range of shear stress applied. - Results : The larger silica particle diameter size indicated an increase in the viscosity of the formulations, as yield stress was also generated for the specific diameter of 14 nm. It was also found that as the particle concentration increased, the viscosity increased as well. Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids indicated very similar behaviour, meaning that the biosurfactant acts as an emulsifier and does not impact the system’s rheological behaviour. The replacement of silicone oil with other natural oils was only successful with canola, and castor oil, since jojoba, squalene and mineral oil were not stabilized. - Conclusion : The lip gloss was designed by water-in-oil emulsions which were stabilized by biosurfactants and the rheology of the oil phase was enhanced by silica particles. The formulation rheology gave a stable emulsion, the shear-thinning effect ensured easy applicability, whereas the viscosity and elasticity provided nice hold on the lips. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil and pigments - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Stability - Effect of silica particle diameter - Effect of silica particle concentration - Effect of biosurfactant - Effect of oil - Performance of the lip gloss - Table 1 : Rhamnolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) - Table 2 : Table 2 Sophorolipid formulations prepared for all three silica particles (Aerosil R 202, Aerosil R 812 and Aerosil R 812S) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12642 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vXu5cbVn34tRhjWqWOmJAcQb_kn8gPKB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35423 [article]

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Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum / F. Ansari in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 581-589 Titre : Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : F. Ansari, Auteur ; C. McGuiness, Auteur ; B. Zhang, Auteur ; Reinhold H. Dauskardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 581-589 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cohésion intercelullaire Cosmétiques -- Analyse Couche cornée Emulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Séchage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream. - Methods : We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy. - Results : We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation. - Conclusions : The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Formulated moisturizing creams - Tissue preparation - Drying stress measurement - SC cohésion - Diffusivity measurement - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Drying stress - Diffusion - SC cohesion - Table 1 : Important parameters of the moisturizing creams investigated in this study - Table 2 : Relevant physical properties of the emulsifier and emollient molecules used in this study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12643 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B7LGHeaNR4IpitcqVdB81A-RufWdxkVs/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35424 [article]

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Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance / C. Tabary in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 590-595 Titre : Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Tabary, Auteur ; F. Pouradier, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; Ségolène Panhard, Auteur ; L. Carvalho, Auteur ; F. Vincenzi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 590-595 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cheveux -- analyse Evaluation Protocole d'étude shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A sensory descriptive method is used by the industries to characterize their various products under development. The sensory panelists are recruited through some general criteria suggested in International Standard Sensory Analysis – General guidelines for the selection, training and monitoring of selected assessors and expert sensory assessors but for hair product evaluation, some hair criteria should also be considered, as a major challenge lied in the difficulty to recruit panelists. Such an issue led us to find practical solutions to make this recruitment easier. Among others, one possible solution was to restrict some requirements in the characteristics of hair. This study aimed at checking if a hair type diversification on either sensitization or curliness could influence the sensory perception of shampoos, and, if so, to which extent. This study demonstrates that, for a shampoo trained panel, the evaluation is impacted by the hair curliness but is not impacted by the hair sensitization level. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fieldwork - Panelist recruitment - Attributes - Training - Products - Evaluation protocol - Performance analysis - Multiple Factor Analysis - Confidence ellipse - Profile comparisons - Sensory mapping - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Performance analysis results - Straight Hair Cell analysis - Routine analysis results - Products mapping - Table 1 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for control cell (n = 17). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 2 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SNat Cell (n = 31). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 3 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SHigh Cell (n = 35). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 4 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CCol Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 5 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CNat Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 6 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for straight cell (n = 83). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability is between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12650 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LHWUxof73Ikom-yYD1iHZKVLecSBsmmE/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35425 [article]

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2,5-diketopiperazines mitigate the amount of advanced glycation end products accumulated with age in human dermal fibroblasts / A. André in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 596-604 Titre : 2,5-diketopiperazines mitigate the amount of advanced glycation end products accumulated with age in human dermal fibroblasts Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : A. André, Auteur ; A. K. Touré, Auteur ; D. Stien, Auteur ; V. Eparvier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 596-604 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : '2,5-dicétopipérazines'  AGE  'Culture  cellulaire'  'Analyse  chimique'  'Clairance  de  la  LMC'  'Réseaux  moléculaires'  'Physiologie  cutanée' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Glycation is a common non-enzymatic reaction between proteins and sugars, resulting in the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the human body. As can be seen in diabetic patients, the accumulation of AGEs in the skin has aesthetic consequences (wrinkles, brown spots and yellowish complexion). Therefore, the objective of this work was to find compounds isolated from natural sources that could eliminate the final AGEs accumulated in the skin with ageing. - Methods and results : A preliminary screening performed on a bank of microbial extracts and pure compounds showed that 2,5-Diketopiperazines (DKPs), as well as the extract of Sphingobacterium sp (SNB-CN13), reduced the presence of AGEs in fibroblasts by −28% and −23%, respectively. In this article, we present the dereplication approach used to reveal the presence of 26 different DKPs in the crude extract of Sphingobacterium sp. Bioguided fractionation has led to the isolation of 12 of them, whose identity has been confirmed by HRMS and NMR. A green synthesis approach has been developed to synthesize 3 symmetrical DKPs. The biological activity of all DKPs was evaluated by the development of an in vitro test using immunocytochemistry to reveal the presence of AGE carboxymethyl-lysine in human dermal fibroblasts. - Conclusion : Our work shows for the first time that DKPs decrease the amount of carboxymethyl-lysine AGE in elderly human dermal fibroblasts grown in vitro. Therefore, diketopiperazines can be considered as compounds of interest for dermatological and cosmetic applications with an anti-ageing aim. Note de contenu : - General experimental procedures - Isolation and identification of Sphingobacterium spp. SNB-CN13 - Culture of bacterium, extraction and isolation of compounds - Cell preparation method - Biological activity – Immunofluorescence of CML - UPLC-MS/MS analysis of SNB-CN13 extract - MZmine 2 Data preprocessing Parameters - Molecular Network analysis - Table 1 : Percentage of decrease in CML in fibroblasts treated with molecules 1-21 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12655 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KRaXAe5gJYR7kxdb7S1cKkwbRtkBQsFX/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35426 [article]

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Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum / C. Berkey in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 605-614 Titre : Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Berkey, Auteur ; D. Kanno, Auteur ; Annette Mehling, Auteur ; J.-P. Koch, Auteur ; W. Eisfeld, Auteur ; M. Dierker, Auteur ; M. Bhattacharya, Auteur ; Reinhold H. Dauskardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 605-614 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomécanique Caractérisation Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Emollients Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities. - Methods : Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress. - Results : The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity. - Conclusion : We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics. Note de contenu : - Stratum corneum preparation - Emollient treatments - Drying stress substrate curvature - Penetration volume measurements - ATR-FTIR spectroscopy - Table 1 : Names and relevant physical properties of emollients - Table 2 : Drying stress, penetration volume and diffusivity measurements of SC treated with emollients DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12656 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iqy3w2otbjm-FJAy68hPKAWIkLGWpBIb/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35427 [article]

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Characteristics of healthy and androgenetic alopecia scalp microbiome: Effect of Lindera strychnifolia roots extract as a natural solution for its modulation / Edith Filaire in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 615-621 Titre : Characteristics of healthy and androgenetic alopecia scalp microbiome: Effect of Lindera strychnifolia roots extract as a natural solution for its modulation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Edith Filaire, Auteur ; A. Dreux, Auteur ; Carine Boutot, Auteur ; Edwige Ranouille, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 615-621 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Malassezia Microbiologie Microbiote Produits capillaires Staphylococcus epidermis Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human scalp harbours a vast community of microbiotal mutualists. Androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the most common form of hair loss in males, is a multifactorial condition involving genetic predisposition and hormonal changes. The role of microflora during hair loss remains to be understood. After having characterized the scalp microbiota of 12 healthy male subjects and 12 AGA male subjects (D0), the aim of this investigation was to evaluate the capacity of Lindera strychnifolia root extract (LsR) to restore a healthy bacterial and fungal scalp microflora after 83 days (D83) of treatment. - Material and methods : The strategy used was based on high-throughput DNA sequencing targeting the encoding 16S ribosomal RNA for bacteria and Internal Transcribed Spacer 1 ribosomal DNA for fungi. - Results : Test analysis of relative abundance comparing healthy and AGA subjects showed a significant increase of Cutibacterim acnes (P < 0.05) and Stenotrophomonas geniculata (P < 0.01) in AGA subjects. AGA scalp condition was also associated with a significant (P < 0.05) decrease of Staphylococcus epidermidis relative abundance. A lower proportion of Malassezia genus in samples corresponding to AGA scalps and an increase of other bacterial genera (Wallemia, Eurotium) were also noted. At the species level, mean relative abundance of Malassezia restricta and Malassezia globosa were significantly lower (P < 0.05) in the AGA group. Eighty-three days of treatment induced a significant decrease in the relative abundance of C. acnes (P < 0.05) and S. geniculata (P < 0.01). S. epidermidis increased significantly (P < 0.05). At the same time, LsR treatment induced a significant increase in the proportion of M. restricta and M. globosa (P < 0.05). - Conclusion : Data from sequencing profiling of the scalp microbiota strongly support a different microbial composition of scalp between control and AGA populations. Findings suggest that LsR extract may be a potential remedy for scalp microbiota re-equilibrium. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of extract - Subject recruitment - Treatment - Swab sample collection - DNA extraction - Amplification and sequencing of 16S RNA gene - Amplification and sequencing of ITS1 RNA gene - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Identification of bacteria communities: Taxonomic abundance analysis - Identification of fungal communities - Effect of LsR extract treatment on microbiome - Table 1 : Mean relative abundance at the phylum, genus and species level at D0 (beginning of the study) for healthy and AGA group and after the LsR treatment for AGA group (D83) - Table 2 : Mean relative abundance at the phylum and genus level at D0 (beginning of the study) for healthy and AGA group, and after the LsR treatment for AGA group (D83) - Table 3 : Relative abundance at the species belonging to Malassezia species at D0 (beginning of the study) for healthy and AGA group and after the LsR treatment for AGA group (D83) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12657 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q-DKEKbXzs_kXntEba2nTpj1xMHrkRdX/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35428 [article]

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In vivo anti-ageing activity of cream containing niosomes loaded with purple glutinous rice (Oryza sativa Linn.) extract / J. Manosroi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 622-631 Titre : In vivo anti-ageing activity of cream containing niosomes loaded with purple glutinous rice (Oryza sativa Linn.) extract Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : J. Manosroi, Auteur ; C. Chankhampan, Auteur ; W. Kitdamrongtham, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; M. Abe, Auteur ; T. Akihisa, Auteur ; W. Manosroi, Auteur ; A. Manosroi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 622-631 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti tyrosinase Antiâge Antioxydants Cosméceutique Etude in vivo Niosomes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Riz et constituants Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate the anti-ageing activity of cream containing the methanolic purple glutinous rice extract loaded in niosomes. - Methods : The in vitro biological activities of the purple glutinous rice extracted by methanol maceration were determined. The extract loaded in niosomes and the cream containing the niosomes were developed. The in vivo anti-ageing activity in 20 human volunteers including skin hydration, pigmentation, roughness and elasticity after daily application for 28 days compared to at initial was evaluated by Corneometer, Mexameter, Visiometer and Cutometer, respectively. - Results : The purple glutinous rice extract showed free radical scavenging (SC50), lipid peroxidation inhibition (IPC50), metal ion chelating (CC50) and tyrosinase inhibition (IC50) values at 32.31 ± 1.28, 57.40 ± 2.12, 85.05 ± 5.43 and 43.89 ± 2.14 mg/mL which were 0.00031, 0.011, 0.0078 and 0.0016 times of the standards (0.01 ± 0.00, 0.62 ± 0.14, 0.66 ± 0.05 and 0.07 ± 0.01), respectively. The purple glutinous rice extract contained 0.35 µg of anthocyanin/1 mg of the extract determined by HPLC. After loaded in niosomes, the solubility of the extract was not only increased in various solvents, but also the chemical stability in different environments (weak base, reducing agent and acid salt) was improved. The cream formulation containing niosomes loaded with 1%w/v of the purple glutinous rice extract indicated the anthocyanin remaining percentages after 6 cycles of heating and cooling test at 52.28% of the initial. For in vivo anti-ageing activities, cream containing niosomes loaded with the extract gave significant decreased melanin index and skin roughness reduction of −14.05 and −9.95% of the initial, respectively. The % changes of the increased skin hydration, skin elastic extension and skin elastic recovery when applied on human volunteers’ skin with this formulation were +48.73, -24.51 and +35.98%, respectively. - Conclusion : The cream containing niosomes loaded with the 1%w/v methanolic purple glutinous rice extract gave not only the suitable in vitro antioxidant activity and physical stability of the active anthocyanin, but also the superior in vivo anti-ageing activity on human skin compared to the cream base and before application which can be further developed as a novel anti-ageing cosmeceutical product. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of the purple glutinous rice extract - Antioxidant activities - Tyrosinase inhibition assay - Physical characteristics of the niosomal dispersion - Preparation of cream containing niosomes loaded with the purple glutinous rice extract - Anti-ageing activities in human volunteers of cream containing niosomes loaded with the purple glutinous rice extract - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Antioxidant activities of the purple glutinous rice extract - Characteristics of niosomes loaded with the purple glutinous rice extract - Physical characteristics of cream containing niosomes loaded with the purple glutinous rice extract - Anti-ageing activities in human volunteers of cream containing niosomes loaded with the purple glutinous rice extract DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12658 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tZ9AG6JtucAx9VZbquCRTcHbUJk6iU27/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35429 [article]

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Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 632-636 Titre : Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Dilek Guneri, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 632-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Cornéocytes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Femmes Hydrophobie Nicotinamide Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Age‐related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4‐week placebo‐controlled study. The stratum corneum (SC) undergoes a variety of catabolic and anabolic reactions towards its outer surface layers in preparation for its external assault from the terrestrial environment. These events are essential for the formation of a healthy barrier. Key is the maturation of the corneocyte envelope (CE) (Fig. 1). Morphologically, CE’s appear fragile in the deeper layers of the SC and more rigid in the outer layers, the mechanics of which have been confirmed with several biomechanical approaches. Early methods to assessing the maturity of the CE’s were based upon staining with tetramethylrhodamine isothiocyanate (TRITC) where rigid CEs stain more intensely than fragile ones. Later, their protein content was assessed by involucrin immunochemistry and their lipid content by Nile red staining which was then expressed as a ratio. Using these approaches, improvements in CE maturity of the volar forearm and the legs have been observed with moisturizers containing glycerol and niacinamide. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Model of the corneocyte envelope (CE). An early step in the cornification process is the formation of the intercellular cytoskeleton mainly composed of keratin filaments and filaggrin. Cross-linking of proteins, mainly of loricrin and involucrin form the rigid inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Then, a lipid monolayer, the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), is covalently attached to the CPE. The CLE serves as a scaffold for the lamellar organization of the extracellular lipid matrix. - Fig. 2 : Facial test sites, central forehead (CF), cheek (CH) (3 cm vertically beneath the outer edge of the eye), top nasolabial sulcus (NT), midpoint nasolabial sulcus (NM) - Fig. 3 : Baseline data, differences of CE maturation parameters (size (a), hydrophobicity (b), rigidity (c), RCEM (d)) between young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison young vs. old, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Fig. 4 : Baseline corrected data of the impact of topically applied niacinamide on CE maturation parameters (hydrophobicity (a), rigidity (b), RCEM (c)) in young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison baseline vs. treatment, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Table 1 : INCI list of test creams DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12666 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzLcNcWvc1rQwBPvftiLnXvrVinoYNlz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35430 [article]

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