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Correlation of AFM/LFM with Combing Forces of Human Hair / Roger L. McMullen in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000)
[article]
Titre : Correlation of AFM/LFM with Combing Forces of Human Hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Janusz Jachowicz, Auteur ; Stephen P. Kelty, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 39-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A comparative study is presented of dry combing forces measured with a Miniature Tensile Tester and micron-scale frictional forces measured using Normal and Lateral Force Microscopy of virgin and treated human hair. Topographic images of the fibers show the presence of small pores, which become increasingly prevalent upon solvent extraction. The pores appear to attract cationic polymers. Friction images show surface variations that are interpreted as areas of varying lipid film coverage. Friction image analysis indicates a good correlation of image data and combing forces as measured with a modified Miniature Tensile Tester. En ligne : http://online1.ispcorp.com/en-US/Media/Articles/Correlation%20of%20AFM-LFM%20wit [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10819
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 3 (07-08-09/2000) . - p. 39-45[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 004649 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis / Roger L. McMullen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)
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Titre : Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Donna Laura, Auteur ; Guojin Zhang, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 375-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie analytique
Cocamidopropyl bétaine
Cosmétiques
Electrocinétique (effets d'interface)
Gomme de guarLa gomme de guar est extraite de la graine de la légumineuse Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, où elle sert de réserve d'aliments et d'eau.
La gomme de guar est composée principalement de galactomannane, une fibre végétale soluble et acalorique. Le galactomannane est un polymère linéaire composé d'une chaine de monomères de mannose ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) auxquelles sont ramifiés par un pont 1-6 une unité de galactose. Le ratio entre le mannose et le galactose est de 2 pour 1, ainsi en moyenne une unité de galactose est ramifié tous les deux mannose sur la chaine. Par comparaison, il est de 4 pour 1 pour la gomme de caroube et 3 pour 1 pour la gomme tara.
La gomme de guar est un additif alimentaire (E4124) largement utilisé dans l'industrie agro-alimentaire. Elle permet notamment d'alléger certaines préparations en remplaçant le rôle de l'amidon, de sucres ou de matières grasses. La gomme de guar est utilisée comme épaississant, stabilisant et émulsifiant dans les aliments grâce à sa texture uniforme et ses propriétés pour former des gels. Elle peut être utilisée dans les sauces, soupes, crèmes glacées et sorbets, produits de boulangerie et de pâtisserie, poudres, etc.
Laureth sulfate de sodium
Polymères cationiques
Potentiel zeta
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined.
- Methods : All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations.
- Results : The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair.
- Conclusion : We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Cationic guar variants - Electrokinetic permeability analysis - Mechanical measurements of combing force
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Zeta potential of hair - Hair treated with a conventional cationic surfactant - Hair treated with a conventional cationic copolymer - Hair treated with cationic guar - Influence of CD and MW on cationic guar deposition - Mechanical wet combing analysis of hair
treated with cationic guar derivatives - Behaviour of cationic guar on different types of hair - Conductivity and pH of the streaming potential solution
- Table 1 : Viscosity, CD, trade name and designation of the cationic guar variants investigated in this study. Unless otherwise indicated, viscosity measurements were conducted on 1% (w/w) solutions of the polymers
- Table 2 : Calculated thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer according to Equation 2. Data are provided in µmDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12704 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15-tN68MsY8ahVox5SPuPv9GtRrHcxCcC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36673
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 375-390[article]Naturally flawless hair whatever the weather / Lidia Kulcsar in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022)
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Titre : Naturally flawless hair whatever the weather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; David Streuli, Auteur ; Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Coralie Alonso, Auteur ; Michael Franzke, Auteur ; Richard Giles, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits coiffants
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ashland’s stylezeâ„¢es-dura ingredient (INCI : Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) is a plant-based styling agent with conditioning properties, offering leading-edge performance and sustainability. This novel ingredient delivers outstanding all-weather style durability with a salon- and consumerproven sensorial experience. It brings a uniquely strong sustainability profile, which enables naturally-derived, biodegradable, vegan, and clean INCI claims in finished formulations. The ingredient is highly versatile, giving formulators the flexibility to create both modern and traditional hair care products for flawless styles and curl definition, a natural look and feel, and excellent style durability in any weather. Note de contenu : - Performance evaluations
- Resistance to hot and humid conditions
- Rain shower resistance
- Durability and toughness testing
- Elastic modulus
- Volumiziation of fine hair
- Reduction of static flyaway under dry conditions
- Sensory attributes
- Table 1 : Defined by nature solution - All-weather styling mousseEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U8GFqA6HC46o2a3NJtEEAoFYTgvuJ_fK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37983
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022) . - p. 51-54[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23434 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Rheological fingerprinting as an effective tool to guide development of personal care formulations / S. Ozkan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)
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Titre : Rheological fingerprinting as an effective tool to guide development of personal care formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Ozkan, Auteur ; C. Alonso, Auteur ; Roger L. McMullen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 536-547 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Composés lamellaires
Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Polymères
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Conventional rheological techniques in the linear viscoelastic region provide insights about the spatial configuration of the microstructural components of personal care formulations in their ‘at‐rest’ state. However, they fail to describe the textural experience associated with large and fast deformations during daily consumer application. In this study we present a non‐conventional rheological technique : large amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS)—for probing the transformation of a material during its application. This technique is proposed a practical tool for formulators in their efforts to design products with desired textural attributes.
- Methods : A non‐linear rheological technique termed LAOS was utilized to capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots (stress vs. strain or strain rate) provide a fingerprint of the formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry, molecular properties, colloidal parameters and processing conditions.
- Results : In this study, we showcased several approaches for modifying the texture of personal care formulations and show the influence of various parameters on the characteristics of the Lissajous curves and their relation to sensorial perception. This fingerprinting technique shows that increasing the molecular weight or hydrophobic modification boosts the elasticity and thickening efficiency of a given polymer. Differences in the chemistry of rheological ingredients also influence the characteristic Lissajous fingerprint. In high concentration surfactant systems, which tend to form worm‐like micelles, their unique Lissajous fingerprints indicate structure rebuild because of fast kinetics at large but slow deformations. Analysis of lamellar gel‐based hair conditioner formulations demonstrates the unique high yield stress of these types of materials, accompanied by the fast breakdown transition from a solid to viscous structure because of their crystalline lamellar gel structure.
- Conclusion : The LAOS technique presented in this article is intended to better capture the textural expression perceived by consumers. Lissajous plots—generated from the LAOS experimental data—provide a fingerprint of the tested formula and are utilized to both analyse the thickening mechanism and monitor the influence of various parameters, such as the chemistry and molecular weight of the thickener, pH of the formula medium and influence of other ingredients in the formula (surfactants, emulsifiers, etc.).Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Hair conditioner formulations thickened with lamellar gel structure and HMHEC. The pH was adjusted with citric acid
- Table 2 : Table 2 DSC data for three formulation prototype hair conditioners : low gel phase without polymer, low gel phase with HMHEC and normal (high) gel phase without polymer
- Table 3 : Transparent hair conditioner formulas containing HEC and HPMC as thickening polymers at different pH levels. The pH was adjusted with citric acid. †See text for descriptionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1azWiP1_-vXyM6m3kqxntInRFfD5sSeeu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35419
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 536-547[article]