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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierJasmine to connect skin biology and emotions in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)
Titre : Jasmine to connect skin biology and emotions Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 6-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Bien-être
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Immunité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Jasmins et constituants
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Caressenseâ„¢ biofunctional is a phytofermented extract from fresh and organic jasmine flowers, inspired by research on the connection between skin and emotions and the ‘chemistry of love'.
It is developed using the power of a novel sustainable and patented extraction technology : phytofermentologyâ„¢. Its unique signature composition is rich in bioactive phytonutrients, such as flower peptides and polyphenols.
Caressense™ biofunctional can activate the sensors of touch, Piezo1, to release 'feel-good' molecules inside the skin and deliver well-ageing and age-defying benefits. It acts on the skin’s sensory system to liberate positive emotions of feeling well and calmness.
Caressenseâ„¢ biofunctional delivers skin with age-relaxing, stronger immunity and a healthy glow effect.Note de contenu : - Jasmine, the flower of love
- Love beauty : The new emotional cosmetic trend
- Sustainable from farm to consumer
- Caressense biofunctional is inspired by the 'Science of love'
- New link evidenced between skin touch and molecule of love
- Mimicking caring touch for well-being and well-ageingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/163Nc0FU1gW2mBcGt84stI7p6fI9vGPJv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37402
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Titre : Living the lifestyle dream with sustainable cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Clare Goodwin, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 23-25 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise
Consommation durable
Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Déchets -- Elimination
Huile de palme et constituants
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Recyclage (déchets, etc.)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The opinions we have and the beliefs we hold all feed into the way we live our lives and how we shop. Often, our values and opinions are shaped from a very early age and can carry through childhood to adulthood.
However, these opinions can and do frequently change. For example, the increased media coverage over the past few years on climate change has led to many consumers changing their shopping and lifestyle habits to become greener and more eco-conscious.
This has been further accelerated by the COP 26 climate change summit, held in Glasgow last year, as well as by the Earthshot prize. This is a new global award for the environment set up by Prince William and David Attenborough to incentivise change to repair our planet. The winner was the Republic of Costa Rica for a scheme that pays local citizens to restore natural ecosystems to revive the rainforest. It has received a £1 million grant to continue the work.Note de contenu : - Upcycling waste
- Cutting out waste
- Green or natural
- Feeling better
- Palm oil issues
- Green sourcing
- Going to extremes
- COVID challenges
- Heaven scentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lTSugecBY5bYJ9dax5y7dXYrXt4u9U9j/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37403
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Titre : The 'solidification' of liquid shampoos and conditioners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Barker, Auteur ; Antonia Hantschel, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Cosmétiques solides
Produits après-shampooings
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article will first explore the challenges and limitations of currently available shampoo bar formulations. It will then offer a revolutionary technology which allows improved performance and consumer acceptance, not just for solid shampoos but also for conditioners and other liquid products, instantly dissolving powders, tablets and paper sheets. It offers the persona( care industry the opportunity to re-develop a wide range of existing cosmetic formulations into solid forms.
Shampoo bars and other solid formats are growing in popularity worldwide. The last five years have seen an exponential increase in shampoo bar launches, from around 50 in 2016 to around 700 in 2021. This trend is likely to continue apace due to the unique drivers involved.
Unlike many drivers in our industry, it is clear that sustainability is more than just another fashion trend. The issues are real, widespread and extremely well documented. Furthermore, these issues are not going to go away.
The cosmetics industry is essentially consumer-driven. The needs and wants of the consumer are paramount when developing and marketing new products. In recent years there has been a move away from what has become known as 'greenwashing' towards more ethical considerations. This is, to a large extent, due to a better informed and more environmentally aware consumer base.
The sustainability theme captures a wide range of issues from palm-related deforestation to carbon footprint. It is clear that, currently, shampoo and conditioning bars, powders and tablets offer the consumer a product that ticks a number of boxes : water reduction, reduced carbon footprint and non-plastic packaging to name just a few. They represent a shift away from traditional formulations to a more sustainable and consumer-acceptable range of products.Note de contenu : - Current technology
- New technology
- Fibre-surfactant ratio
- Testing
- Additional formats
- Further workEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LbALKrM-MykgRTOatuaiCCeYwrFHHAEV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37404
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Titre : Endorphin peptide-based wrinkle treatment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Guglielmo Bifulco, Auteur ; Francesco Rastrelli, Auteur ; Gianbattista Rastrelli, Auteur ; Giorgio Tosti, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Endorphines
Neurocosmétique
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetics industry and consumers have been paying increasing attention to the concept of neurocosmetics in recent years. Scientific evidence about the benefits of natural and biomimetic cosmetics substances involved in the modulation of human physiology, mood and state of mind through interaction with the skin nervous system has impacted the industry at unprecedented levels.
This scenario led to a new trend for the use of active ingredients targetting specific nervous system pathways in the skin, such as endocannabinoid and opioid systems. Consumer demand is becoming more challenging, to the point where the actual composition and functional characteristics of the cosmetics products used throughout the daily routine have to be compilant to a specific 'lifestyle' model.Note de contenu : - Endorphines
- Technology background
- Sh-pentaptide 5
- CLA-glutathione
- Anti-wrinkle : clinical evaluations
- Other parametersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rJnmXx4mFyTBJTUeogBneWztzMwCKNRm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37405
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Titre : Enhancing emotional wellbeing with plant cells Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; Alejandro Guirado, Auteur ; Raul Vallecillo, Auteur ; Daniel Robustillo, Auteur ; Maria Mas, Auteur ; Ana Gallego, Auteur ; Pau Riera, Auteur ; Daniel Luna, Auteur ; Tarik Ruiz, Auteur ; Sara Laplana, Auteur ; Sandra Ruiz, Auteur ; M. Gibert, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Cellules souches végétales
Cosmétiques
Curcuma et constituants
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Stress -- Effets physiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Stress has an impact on skin and general appearance that ranges from dryness or wrinkles to more serious conditions, such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. Curcuma Longa (turmeric) callus lysate is a multiactive ingredient from turmeric stem cells that acts against stress wrinkles, working as an emotional wellbeing manager and as a modulator of the brain-skin connection. Several in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo assays were carried out to demonstrate the efficacy of the active ingredient. Note de contenu : - Plant stem cells rich in stress-related factors
- Biological activity
- Clinical evaluationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k5v_1ZCBSFcXsbvB9LVCY6nNIYWlTHd9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37406
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Titre : A natural sensory modifier for hair and skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maryalice Belluscio, Auteur ; Nienke Mossou-Peters, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 41-43 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barbe et moustache -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Shampooings secsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As a result of the evolution within the skin care market, beauty formulators have been challenged to offer new innovations that meet the demand for natural and sustainable products, white continuing to deliver the performance that consumers have corne to expect. Consumers spend time and effort to make sure their purchases will provide them the performance they need and have the eco credentials they like to see in a product.
One out of five consumers have recently changed their routine after researching the ingredients used in their products, demonstrating that you can win the consumer over if you position your product in the right way with the right ingredients. The strong focus on eco and natural is also evident in hair care, where next to ingredients the formats are well considered and more sustainable alternatives like dry shampoo are on the rise.Note de contenu : - Natural alternative
- Elegant performance
- Dry shampoo
- Skin care benefit
- Formulation examples
- Table 1 : Dry sahmpoo formulation
- table 2 Natural face cream formulation
- Table 3 : Frizz control - Silky & soft hair cream
- Table 4 : Wet skin powder to milk lotion (after-shower beard powder)
- Table 5 : Natural texturising dry shampoo pufferEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r3ysKWnB5rCXZ36pvSmed-cTlzo3RDjJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37407
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Titre : Nature inspires a holistic fight against pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marlène De Matos, Auteur ; Julie Després, Auteur ; Hélène Foliguet, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 45-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pollution -- Effets physiologiques
Stress oxydatif
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pollution is the main aggressive factor of our new age. It is a real social scourge. This new concern can be found everywhere at the surface of the planet ; located outdoors, it is also found in our houles. Furthermore, exposed daily, our skin and hair are constantly attacked. Pollutants settle down on our hair, affect them and make them look dull. Scalp skin is irritated and asphyxiated.
Extracts from plant leaves have shown interesting effects acting on various adverse mechanisms of pollution. Those actives are fighting holistically against this major consideration. Breathe, feel, live, treat your skin naturally !Note de contenu : - POLLUTION
- POLLUTION EFFECT ON HAIR : Pollutants can deposit on the hair fibre - Pollution affects hair structure - Pollution affects hair mechanical properties
- A SOLUTION TO NEUTRALISE POLLUTANTS : A solution for deep cleaning - Effective protection for hair
- POLLUTION'S EFFECT ON SKIN : Skin oxygenation improvement - Effect on oxidative stress & skin ageingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EiPIJtdf2zjVHAb9oTn0G96YAuL2sMtw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37408
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Titre : Summer snowflake bulb : A botox-like active Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Shlomo Krispin, Auteur ; Nofit Borenstein-Auerbach, Auteur ; Joan Attia-Vigneau, Auteur ; Estelle Loing, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 49-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Muscles -- Soins et hygiène
Sports
Toxine botuliqueLa toxine botulique (ou botulinique) est une toxine sécrétée par Clostridium botulinum, la bactérie responsable du botulisme (toxi-infection alimentaire généralement contractée lors de la consommation de conserves et responsable de paralysies musculaires). Il s'agit d'une protéine dont les propriétés neurotoxiques en font le plus puissant poison connu avec une DL50 estimée chez l'humain entre 1,3 et 2,1 ng/kg par voie intraveineuse ou intramusculaire et entre 10 et 13 ng/kg par inhalation2 (soit 40 millions de fois plus que le cyanure et 2000 fois plus que le gaz VX). La toxine est thermolabile mais résistante aux acides et aux sucs digestifs.
TranspirationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Exercise is seen by many as a key component in their pursuit of physical, mental and emotional health. Increasingly, beauty and fitness are now converging. Looking your best during and after a workout session is highly desired by beauty-conscious active consumers worldwide.
'Active beauty' cosmetics are aimed at helping consumers get the most out of their fitness routines, with products that help them before, during and after exercise. These may be as simple as sweat-resistant formulations or as complex as encapsulated actives which are released over time when triggered by sweat, heat or motion.
Some 'active beauty' products are designed to protect, help repair, refresh, cool and replenish essential electrolytes. Others are colour cosmetics and facial skincare products designed to keep the face looking fresh and even-toned, no matter how hard the workout, often using illuminating moisturisers and mattifying powders. Brands will continue seeking out niche products that will help consumers look and feel their best during and after their time at the gym.
Among these, cosmetic actives that can reduce excessive facial sweating during and after exercise could be of special interest. As the average modem lifestyle becomes increasingly fast-paced, cosmetics treatments that bring fast and potent results are becoming ever more desirable. Active beauty is no exception to this rule.
Note de contenu : - Botox : From bacteria to beauty
- Botanical solution
- In vitro efficacy
- In vivo efficacy
- Sweat reduction
- Wrinkle reductionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fT34qF2ZN5DMqush0TONx9EimSetSoxh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37409
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Titre : Fermented, multi-plant ingredients in cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 54-55 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
EnzymesUne enzyme est une protéine dotée de propriétés catalytiques. Pratiquement toutes les biomolécules capables de catalyser des réactions chimiques dans les cellules sont des enzymes ; certaines biomolécules catalytiques sont cependant constituées d'ARN et sont donc distinctes des enzymes : ce sont les ribozymes.
Une enzyme agit en abaissant l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction chimique, ce qui accroît la vitesse de réaction. L'enzyme n'est pas modifiée au cours de la réaction. Les molécules initiales sont les substrats de l'enzyme, et les molécules formées à partir de ces substrats sont les produits de la réaction. Presque tous les processus métaboliques de la cellule ont besoin d'enzymes pour se dérouler à une vitesse suffisante pour maintenir la vie. Les enzymes catalysent plus de 5 000 réactions chimiques différentes2. L'ensemble des enzymes d'une cellule détermine les voies métaboliques qui peuvent avoir lieu dans cette cellule. L'étude des enzymes est appelée enzymologie.
Les enzymes permettent à des réactions de se produire des millions de fois plus vite qu'en leur absence. Un exemple extrême est l'orotidine-5'-phosphate décarboxylase, qui catalyse en quelques millisecondes une réaction qui prendrait, en son absence, plusieurs millions d'années3,4. Comme tous les catalyseurs, les enzymes ne sont pas modifiées au cours des réactions qu'elles catalysent, et ne modifient pas l'équilibre chimique entre substrats et produits. Les enzymes diffèrent en revanche de la plupart des autres types de catalyseurs par leur très grande spécificité. Cette spécificité découle de leur structure tridimensionnelle. De plus, l'activité d'une enzyme est modulée par diverses autres molécules : un inhibiteur enzymatique est une molécule qui ralentit l'activité d'une enzyme, tandis qu'un activateur de cette enzyme l'accélère ; de nombreux médicaments et poisons sont des inhibiteurs enzymatiques. Par ailleurs, l'activité d'une enzyme décroît rapidement en dehors de sa température et de son pH optimums.
FermentationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It has been suggested that the earliest references to mankind's development of fermentation occurred in the regions around Mesopotamia nearly 4,000 years ago. Most likely, these early fermentations occurred by accident when foods being stored were exposed to microorganisms such as Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus.
The human nose is very sensitive to spoilage so the ferments would have had to have been controlled to not take the foods being fermented to their final unpleasant, odorous spoilage. And, of course, the discovery that the fungus Saccharomyces cerevisiae converts sugars to ethanol brought along a powerful new industry that has been truly refined in modern times.
It could be argued that the bulk of mankind's understanding of fermentation has emerged from investigations into alcohol fermentation. Fermentation has also been applied to various unique food substances. The Korean food kimchi is a well-known fermented form of cabbage in which the cabbage leaves are placed into stone crocks and stored outdoors white natural microorganisms along with a unique blend of spices, converts the leaves to kimchi.
Another very famous alcoholic fermentation is the Japanese drink cake. Sake is made from a combination of fungi that start with the conversion of rice with Koji mould, followed by conversion of the resulting fermented rice starch to alcohol with Saccharomyces yeast, also known as baker's yeast.Note de contenu : - Early ferments in cosmetics
- New concepts in cosmetic multi-plant ferments
- MethodsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I-mJvNt6p6iRvMk3SSKZwwpNY400R_e1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37410
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Titre : How to prove pro-ageing claims in vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 57-60 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Dermo-cosmétologie
Etudes cliniques
Evaluation
ExposomeL'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à -dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome.
Justification de l'allégation
Mesure
Peau -- RidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of the active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since the mid-2010s, the cosmetics industry has been gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a 'well ageing', 'slow ageing' or 'pro-ageing' approach.
The philosophy of the 'pro-ageing' movement has sought to remove all 'anti' daims because, according to this concept, women over 50 are not interested in locking younger; they want to look healthy and be honest about their age. Some brands have used the idea of improving the appearance of skin quality and restoring skin comfort. A new vocabulary of renewal, regeneration, plumpness, and Slow' now dominates the language of the beauty industry.
Increasingly inclusive beauty rituals give the opportunity for a pause, counterbalancing stressful, tiring and anxious lifestyles and reducing the deleterious effects of a life that attacks the skin through internat mechanisms or a harmful environment. Eliminate toxins, oxygenate the body, take care of oneself to maintain the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and a good mood. Beauty then becomes more integrative, it will universalise well-being, the silhouette, sleep quality and lifestyle, resulting in a different look.
Consumers are going to take action to preserve their tonicity, elegance and silhouette. In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure and sensoriality. It is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing, with skincare products supporting a 'pro-longevity' and enhancing.Note de contenu : - Substantiating anti-ageing claims
- Evaluation of anti-ageing perceptions
- Exposome process beyong ageing mechanisms
- Biometrological studies
- Focus on wrinkle objectivation
- Challenges of wrinkle evaluation
- Bright future of skin science
- Table 1 & 2 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation-clinical assessmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RE9Q_2jKxTTB-G4loDvb1ddJqZ4tTf8g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37411
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Titre : Nutricosmetic potential of natural astaxanthin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Ahlm, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 62-63 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Astaxanthine
Dermo-cosmétologie
Nutricosmétique
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection contre le rayonnement ultravioletIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For the last decade, the global skin care market has Brown steadily and it is predicted to be worth nearly $190 billion by 2025. During the coronavirus pandemic, an increasing number of consumers have prioritised health and wellness. However, the industry is also witnessing a shift in demand, with a growing number of younger people now looking to support their skin health earlier on in life.
This has led to growth in the usage of skincare supplements, with so-called nutricosmetics set to dominate the market in terms of revenue in the coming years. According to a report by Future Market Insights, the global nutricosmetics segment is expected to grow steadily over the forecast period 2020-2030, with a CAGR of more than 8%.
Rising interest from younger consumers keen to preserve their youthful looks is a major driver of the category's growth. They understand the importance of prevention rather than cure, are aware of what constitutes a healthy diet, and accept that whole-body wellness and the health of the skin microbiome are interconnected.
More than ever, the link between nutrition and skin conditions is becoming apparent to consumers : if you provide your body with the right nutrients and create a healthy internat environment, it will show on the outside. As a functional ingredient, astaxanthin is highly appealing to nutricosmetic manufacturers, who are seeking to expand product fines with innovative new offerings.Note de contenu : - Beauty from the inside out
- Natural UV protection
- Benefits beyond skin care
- Nutricosmetic trendsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jkla-BFQNb7CSMRU4_FputOJ65f1f20H/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37412
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Titre : The science of bio-based alkanes in cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Antoine Piccirilli, Auteur ; Didier Lanquetin, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 65-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes
Biomatériaux
Durée de vie (Ingénierie)
Environnement -- Etudes d'impact
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Procédés de fabricationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, bio-based alkanes obtained from vegetable ails or sugar, respectively by processes of conventional chemistry and by synthetic biology implemented from genetically modified microorganisms, have appeared on the market. An examination of the production yields and the results of lifecycle analyses highlight the great superiority of conventional chemistry compared to synthetic biology, which ultimately proves to be of low productivity and high environmental impact, far from being in phase with the societal and environmental requirements of the cosmetics industry. Note de contenu : - BIOBASED ALKANES FROM VEGETABLE OILS : Linear bio-based alkanes - The linear and branched bio-based alkanes
- BIOBASED ALKANES FROM SYNTHETIC BIOLOGY : Glucose as a raw material for synthetic biology - Isododecane - Biotechnological hemisqualane and squalane
- ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF BIO-BASED ALKANES : Environmental impact assessment : the LCA approach - The specific case of cosmetic substances - Dodecane/tetradecane (coconut alkanes) - Olive squalane - Biotechnological squalane - Bio-based C14 - Comparative balance sheet
- Fig. 1 : Production process of linear and branched bio-based alkanes
- Fig. 2 : Production process of olive squalane
- Fig. 3 : Production process of inverted sugar syrup
- Fig. 4 : Fermentation of glucose in isobutene
- Fig. 5 : Petrochemical derivatives obtained from isobutene
- Fig. 6 : Production process of biotech squalane
- Table 1 : Comparison of bio-based alkanes
- Table 2 : LCA results for 1 kg of coconut dodecane
- Table 3 : LCA results for 1 kg of olive squalane
- Table 4 : LCA results for 1 kg of biotechnological squalaneEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rFkaL4fXdfFc-aMjLAUPNvkO-f4mJwPY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37413
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Titre : Not for your eyes only : high-efficacy actives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Agnieszka Bucholc, Auteur ; Lou Graydon, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 72-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Cernes
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Poches sous les yeuxIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Eyes are an insight into a person's life and mind, often giving away what someone is thinking or feeling at any given moment. It is no wonder, then, that the eye area has long been a leading skincare concern among consumers. The global eyecare market is estimated to be worth up to S61.3million in 2020 and considerable annual growth of up to 6.4 % is predicted over the next 10 years.
The skin surrounding eyes is thinner than other areas and is more susceptible to signs of sleep deprivation, stress and ageing. Weakening collagen easily causes wrinkles in this area and damaged blood vessels are more visible, leading to dark circles.
Formats such as creams and serums that target these concerns have been commonplace on beauty shelves for many years, but in recent times the options available have considerably expanded to include masks, sticks and under-eye patches, among others. Eyecare products are a staple for any skin care routine, and can be found across all types of skin care range, from 100 % natural to science-driven cosmeceutical brands.
The actives used in these products are imperative to their function, and therefore need to have robust data behind them as well as being from appropriate sources to align with the product messaging. Using cutting edge biotechnotogical techniques, Aston Chemicals' partner Lipotrue has developed three eyecare actives from natural and synthetic sources, which help to reduce signs of ageing and sleep deprivation.Note de contenu : - iPeptide
- Meiview
- Tight and bright eye serum
- Col-frag remastered
- Elastic eye butterEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1meYz38_xgwd9dSC1cGt79-AIRQDoIP0w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37414
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Titre : Black maca for inner hair architecture Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorena Sánchez, Auteur ; Cristina Thiebaut, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 78-80 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antioxydants
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Jatropha macrantha et constituantsJatropha macrantha , également appelé huanarpo macho, est une espèce d'arbre arbustif de taille moyenne du genre Jatropha à fleurs rouge orangé. Il est originaire du Pérou. Il est aussi populaire au Pérou que Muira Puama l'est au Brésil.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair weathering is the term given to the deterioration of the hair shaft as a result of cosmetic and environmental factors. In weathered hair, structural damage to the hair fibre causes the cuticle to become unstructured and porous, exposing the cortex to further damage.
Among these factors are environmental pollutants such as UV radiation, smog, cigarette smoke, chemical cosmetic procedures, etc. These generate free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), molecules that oxidise and degrade the proteins and lipids of the hair surface.
Physical stress, such as combing, blow drying or excessive heat from strengthening or curling irons, dehydrates and degrades the proteins of the hair surface. Moreover, drastic procedures like perming, relaxing and bleaching cause structural and chemical damage, and are also a source of free radicals and ROS. Daily weathering is also a minor cause of hair loss and a common cause of frazzled and frizzy, hard-to-manage hair.Note de contenu : - Hair CMC
- Protecting inner hair architecture
- Hair anti-aging
- Antioxidant & anti-lipid peroxidation
- Hair anti-frizz effect through soundEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAS_RfdAD-XtBAJ_ljeDyH2wzANtTGir/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37415
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Titre : A collagen alternative from acacia trees Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Walzel, Auteur ; Anja Herrmann, Auteur ; Beatrix Senti, Auteur ; Tamina Shah, Auteur ; Stefan Bänziger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 83-85 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acacia et constituants
Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : PhytoCollagen is a unique plant-derived collagen alternative sourced from the acacia tree, which combines the cosmetic benefits of collagen with a green, sustainable source and matches consumer preferences. In vivo studies confirm that it entirely mimics the cosmetic benefits of animal collagen. This makes it an ideal replacement - a truly plant-derived, sustainable, green, vegan alternative to animal collagen. Note de contenu : - Acacia tree alternative
- Consumer survey
- In vivo activityEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yIeLALUWeSWs6G9Yi-ScskAeotvVedQ0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37416
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Titre : Synbiotic skin care with bacillus spores Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Robin Temmerman, Auteur ; Filip Meersman, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 87-89 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Microbiome cutané
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Prébiotiques
ProbiotiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microorganisms populate almost every area of our planet. They are found in environments ranging from the deep sea, hot Springs and other extreme environments to more apparently benign habitats cbser to home, including quite literally any surface in our homes but also those of the human body. The gut microbiome is well known, but bacteria, yeasts and moulds also thrive on the surface of our respiratory tract and skin.
The skin microbiome in particular has attracted much attention from skin care professionals in recent years. It is now well established that maintaining a well-balanced equilibrium of various species is key to the skin's—and ultimately our own—health and that any imbalance in the microbiome's diversity is at the engin of multiple skin disorders.
Maintaining or improving a healthy skin microbiome the use of pre-, pro- and postbiotics is gradually gaining importance in personal care. The main challenge lies in the area of probiotics, which implies the introduction of living bacteria into a cream, lotion or other formulation.
Although several products in the market daim to contain probiotics, it very often turns out that the active ingredient is a bacterial cell lysate rather than live bacteria. Some brands, though, have successfully overcome the challenge of inoculating products without spoiling them and reaping the benefits of true probiotics. In this paper, we describe the benefits and challenges related to live probiotic strains and prebiotics in cosmetic products.Note de contenu : - Importance of the skin's microbiome
- Probiotic & synbiotic skincare
- Benefits of probiotic & synbiotic skincare
- Challenges with probiotics in skincareEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FP6VglFpsiBzn_VGxegibEKD8_SWCum6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37417
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Titre : Marine minerals in the dermal matrisome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian Fitzpatrick, Auteur ; Chunxu Shan, Auteur ; Paul Tolan, Auteur ; Bernard Degryse, Auteur ; Ronan Murphy, Auteur ; Patrick Bourke, Auteur ; Andrea Mitarotonda, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 91-93 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
MagnésiumLe magnésium est l'élément chimique de numéro atomique 12, de symbole Mg.
Le magnésium est un métal alcalino-terreux. Il s’agit du neuvième élément le plus abondant de l'univers
. Il est le produit, dans de grandes étoiles vieillissantes, de l'addition séquentielle de trois noyaux d'hélium à un noyau carbo. Lorsque de telles étoiles explosent en tant que supernovas, une grande partie du magnésium est expulsé dans le milieu interstellaire où il peut se recycler dans de nouveaux systèmes stellaires. Le magnésium est le huitième élément le plus abondant de la croûte terrestreet le quatrième élément le plus commun de la Terre (après le fer, l'oxygène et le silicium), constituant 13 % de la masse de la planète et une grande partie du manteau de la planète. C'est le troisième élément le plus abondant dissous dans l'eau de mer, après le sodium et le chlore.
Les atomes de magnésium existent dans la nature uniquement sous forme de combinaisons avec d'autres éléments, où il présente invariablement l'état d'oxydation +2. L'élément pur est produit artificiellement par réduction ou électrolyse. Il est hautement réactif en poudre et en copeaux mais, laissé à l'air libre, il se revêt rapidement d'une mince couche d'oxyde étanche réduisant sa réactivité (passivation par oxydation). Le métal pur brûle aisément sous certaines conditions (en produisant une lumière brillante, blanche, éblouissante caractéristique). En mécanique il est utilisé principalement comme composant dans les alliages d'aluminium-magnésium (parfois appelés magnalium). Le magnésium est moins dense que l'aluminium et l'alliage est apprécié pour sa légèreté et sa résistance plus grande (mécanique et chimique). (Wikipedia)
Minéraux
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent decades, both anti-ageing and biomedical research have focused intensely on the biochemistry and pathophysiology of the extra-cellular matrix (ECM), as well as on matrix dysregulation, which can underpin skin pathophysiology. The ECM fils the intercellular space and is present in ail connective tissues including that of the integumentary system.
Within the intercellular space, phenomena like cellular polarisation and migration, regulation of growth factors, activation and modulation of signalling transduction and gene expression, and processes translating mechanical stimulation into a biochemical signal through the involvement of mechanosensitive channels are ail essential for the maintenance of ECM elasticity, dermal tissue architecture and tone. Mechano-transduction in particular, is an increasingly well-studied process, and regulates cellular lensegrity', an emerging field of mechanobiology.Note de contenu : - Hyaluronic acid
- Ageing
- Marine minerals & magnesium
- DSMs & skin healthEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10XxcO3VtIVeGQZ_IE44cirJLqe1Nut5J/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37418
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Titre : Marine holobionts : Novel multi-functionals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Juan Pablo de la Roche, Auteur ; Arancha Barata, Auteur ; Irene Cordon, Auteur ; Pedro Luis Galan, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 95-98 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Antioxydants
Biomolécules actives
Formulation (Génie chimique)
HolobionteUn holobionte ou supraorganisme, est un ensemble composé par un organisme animal ou végétal et les micro-organismes qu'il héberge.
Les micro-organismes habitant l'hôte (animal ou végétal) constituent le microbiote.
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PhytoplanctonIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Holism is a philosophical notion that states that systems should be studied in their entirety, with a focus on the interconnections between their various components rather than on the individual parts. The holobiont concept unifies the host-microbiota interaction and invites us to seek holistic solutions for skin health and skin microbiota. In this article we dive into the origin of this concept and the connection between the marine and human holobionts. We also present for the first time a new multifunctional cosmetic ingredient based on the molecular richness of holobionts and the ubiquity of molecules that nature has left us as a gift to combine health and beauty. Note de contenu : - Marine holobionts tales
- The problem
- A novel solution
- Antioxidant-whitening dual system
- Synbiotic effect for skin balance
- Formulation examples
- Table 1 : Bioactive molecules with diverse cosmetic claims identified in phytoplankton holobiont extract
- Table 2 : Moisturising, lifting, brightness & even tone cream with phycöskin one
- Table 3 : Moisturising balance maskne repair & sebum regulator serum with synbiötik phycoskinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19rsksN4aqmMCBaWvxVXTQ9xLCUR0CJLe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37419
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Titre : Citriodiol : A naturally sourced insect repellent Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jacqueline Watson, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 101-102 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Citriodiol
Eucalyptus et constituants
Répulsifs (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With continuously changing restrictions, hesitancy over long-distance trips and prolonged uncertainty about border control, many consumers cancelled their international holiday plans for 2021, but travel agents are seeing a surge in demand for 2022.1 After postponing travel for 18 months or more, people are focused on destinations like India, South East Asia and South Africa. Note de contenu : - Health
- Sustainability & environmental impact
- Efficacy & regulationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q1aWsJNb-JEaVDq1YB-k08c4RtlYgpfa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37420
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Titre : Ocean bloom : A sustainable opportunity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Barbara Olioso, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 104-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines
Biotechnologie marine
Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A recent consumers study by the University of Hull on the topic of fashion shopping habits has revealed they are strongly influenced by globally important issues like sustainability and ethics, leaving celebrity or influencers endorsements only effective on 4% of the people interviewed. I believe that this is because, as the demand for renewable resources increases, many wonder how to face the challenge of meeting this demand without causing additional deforestation or loss of biodiversity.
Palm kernel oil is a very efficient source of renewable commodities and there are some great initiatives to make palm plantations more sustainable. Even the new COSMOS standard, which will be released this year, will require a higher number of palm oil and palm kernel oil derivatives to be of certified sustainable palm oil origin (CSPO).
Despite these initiatives and the increasing number of cosmetic ingredients that are mass balance CSPO, there is still concern among consumers about climate change and the destruction of rain forests, driving `palm-oil free' daims in the marketplace. A new solution to address this environmental concern within the cosmetic industry could come from the oceans rather than a plantation. In fact, the majority of the Earth's surface (71%) happens to be covered by water, with 68.5% of that total being oceans.
There are already quite a few ingredients tapping into the oceans' bounty, such as rheology modifiers and actives derived from a wide variety of seaweeds that are sourced in a sustainable way. However, there is some very interesting innovation that could expand the formulators pallet with new functional seaweed derivatives aligning with consumers' values, giving elegant textures and unique environmental daims with a powerful impact. In this article I will share the story behind this innovation coming from the oceans.En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LphrsRvMgDsXi6ErLpieXPlpv73ZcgoQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37421
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Titre : Zinc oxide : Winning choice for a sunscreen UV filter Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul Williams, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Oxyde de zinc
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Produits chimiques -- Classification
Règlements (droit administratif)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is well known that sunscreen prevents sunburn, reduces the risk of metanoma and reduces the sun-retated ageing of skin. Consumers not only demand that sunscreen be effective, they also prefer sunscreens with organoleptic properties.
In addition, there is a growing trend for sunscreens to contain natural ingredients that can safely be applied to human skin and which are environmentally safe. These are some of the more recent challenges that manufacturers face as they design their sunscreen formulations.
The manner and extent of regulation of sunscreens vary across the world. In the USA, the FDA regulates sunscreens as a drug. In Canada, depending upon its formulation, a sunscreen might be classified either as a natural health product or an over-the-counter drug.
In the EU, Chinese and Japanese sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics. Australia regulates sunscreen as a cosmetic if its sun protection factor (SPF) is a secondary function and as a therapeutic/drug if SPF is a primary function.
The primary focus of most regulations is a sunscreen's UV filter, the component that provides protection from UV rays. UV filters are classified in three wavelengths regions : the longest is UVA1 (340-400 nm), the intermediate is UVA2 (320- 340nm) and the shortest is UVB (290-320 nm).
Although it is common not to differentiate between UVA1 and UVA2, some UVA filters do not have optimal performance in both of these regions. UVA rays have less energy and do not burn the skin litre UVB rays, but they have been shown to accelerate skin ageing, as well as having the potential to contribute to melanoma.Note de contenu : - Organic & inorganic filters
- Safety profiles
- Regulation of UV filters
- Sunscreens components
- Trial formulation
- Experimental
- Table 1 : FDA active UV filters for use in sunscreens
- Table 2 : FDA classification of UV filters
- Table 3 : Hel list materials that should not be included in sunscreensEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PFE8zFUSxmBVaDHxp2e5gzaudfowchqC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37422
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