L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits / Gloria Portocarrero Huang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 24-38 Titre : L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gloria Portocarrero Huang, Auteur ; Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys, Auteur ; Frank Liebel, Auteur ; Constantina Jones, Auteur ; Coline Haxaire, Auteur ; Lisa DiNatale, Auteur ; Ardeshir Bayat, Auteur ; John R. Glynn, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 24-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Antiâge:Antirides Collagène Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. - Methods : In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46–66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. - Results : In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. - Conclusion : L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro analysis using 3D human skin equivalents - Gene expression from EFT400 3D tissue - Skin fluorescence measurements - In vivo treatments and histological analysis - Split-face clinical study - Firming measurements - Smoothing and wrinkle measurements - Sagging measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : L4 has pronounced effect on skin matrix components in vitro - In vivo histological analysis confirms the efficacy of L4 on epidermal and dermal components - L4 improves clinical benefits on firming, smoothing, wrinkles and sagging versus base formula after 28 days DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12887 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YZrxPHlli-4T7bMqlG6M8KHb9zQX9hMh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40576 [article]

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5-a reductase inhibition by Epilobioum fleischeri extract modulates facial microbiota structure / Riccardo Sfriso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 440-452 Titre : 5-a reductase inhibition by Epilobioum fleischeri extract modulates facial microbiota structure Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Joshua Claypool, Auteur ; Magalie Roche, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 440-452 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antienzymes Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Justification de l'allégation Microbiome cutané Microbiote cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Réductase Une réductase est une enzyme qui diminue l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction d'oxydo-réduction. (Wikipedia) Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Facial skin is a particularly complex environment made of different skin types such as sebaceous (forehead) and dry (cheeks). The skin microbiota composition on different facial sites has not yet been addressed. - Methods : We conducted a 4-week-long, single-centre, randomized and placebo-controlled clinical study involving 23 Caucasian females. We assessed both bacterial composition on five different facial areas and the microbiome modulatory effects resulting from the topical application of a plant extract (Epilobium fleischeri). Skin microbiome samples were collected before and after 4 weeks of product application. Microbiota profiling was performed via 16S rRNA gene sequencing, and relative abundance data were used to calculate differentials via a multinomial regression model. - Results : Via ‘reference frames’, we observed shifts in microbial composition after 4 weeks of twice-daily product application and identify certain microbiota species, which were positively associated with the application of the product containing the Epilobium fleischeri extract. Staphylococcus hominis, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Micrococcus yunnanensis appeared to be significantly enriched in the final microbiota composition of the active treatment group. - Conclusion : Facial skin was found to be colonized by an heterogenous microbiota, and the Epilobium fleischeri extract had a modulatory effect on commensal bacteria on the different facial sites. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Objectives - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test formulations - Clinical study design - Porphyrins Non-inflammatory lesions Skin microbiome sampling 16S rRNA gene sequencing and predicted metagenomics Data filtering and analysis Facial colour mapping RESULTS Relative abundance and diversity Reference frames and differential ranking Porphyrins and non-inflammatory lesions assessment - Table 1 : Formulations used in the clinical study - Table 2 : Songbird output values for pathways related to N-acetylneuraminate degradation, mandelate degradation, hexitol degradation and tryptophan degradation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12777 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O4avryVbmE2KCmKDwKdGIKdskdHRNMHU/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38144 [article]

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'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract : A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation / Sanela M. Savic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 530-546 Titre : 'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract : A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sanela M. Savic, Auteur ; Nebojsa D. Cekic, Auteur ; Sasa R. Savic, Auteur ; Tanja M. Ilic, Auteur ; Snezana D. Savic, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 530-546 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Justification de l'allégation Plan d'expérience Rhéologie Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. - Methods : Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. - Results : Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. - Conclusion : Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product. Note de contenu : MATERIAL AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of natural anti-wrinkle serums - DoE –Central composite design - Rheological characterization - Stability study - In vivo skin performance/efficacy study - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation, rheological characterization and stability study of natural emulsion serums - DoE –Central composite design - In vivo skin irritation study - In vivo efficacy study –Skin replica image analysis - Table 1 : Central composite design matrix with the response values of the developed model emulsion serums - Table 2 : Estimated coefficients and statistical analysis of the generated models for the investigated serum responses DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13uIJ3COZUT1YIMM1s-kZMTMUxlBdFo--/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36858 [article]

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Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments / Franz J. Wortmann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 421-430 Titre : Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Franz J. Wortmann, Auteur ; Jutta M. Quadflieg, Auteur ; Gabriele Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 421-430 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux décolorés Cheveux humides Cheveux secs Essais dynamiques Justification de l'allégation Statistique Traction (mécanique) Traitement thermique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). - Methods : The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. - Results : Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. - Conclusions : The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Choice of variables, basic data, and statistical analysis - Correlations wet vs dry - 2-Factor ANOVA - DISCUSSION : The independence hypothesis - Two-Factor ANOVA - Table 1 : Summary of basic statistics for the investigated variables for natural/chemically untreated (N) and bleached (B) hair - Table 2 : Parameter values of the regression equations, when plotting variable means (n = 8) for dry vs wet testing - Table 3 : Summary of the various sum-of-squares (SS) components for the three chosen variables (wet and dry), according to Equations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12796 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lf_6im_y7ozRCbt5z_EPSBMWt4BrXRLh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38142 [article]

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A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair / Franz J. Wortmann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 153-161 Titre : A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franz J. Wortmann, Auteur ; Gabriele Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 153-161 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Variations saisonnières Cheveux humides Filaments Fibre de longueur infinie ou extrême comme celle qu'on trouve dans la soie à l'état naturel. Les fibres manufacturées sont extrudées en filaments qui sont transformés en fils continus, en fibres courtes ou en câbles. Justification de l'allégation Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Through the cooperation with an industrial partner, we gained a set of data for the tensile properties (wet) of human hair. The hair samples originated from a cross-over study with two groups of individuals, using for a topical application sequentially two products (A and B). Each phase of the study lasted 6 months. The phases of the study by chance covered first largely the winter and then the summer period. Initially, tensile variables were chosen, which not only reflect the mechanical properties of hair (modulus, break strain, and break stress) but which are also considered to have a good connection to practice-relevant hair properties. The initial analysis of the data showed that changes were observed for the variables due to the treatment phases. However, these were either small or difficult to interpret. - Methods : Against this background and using two-factor analysis of variance, we investigated the hypothesis that the tensile properties of hair (wet) may show significant seasonal changes. For this, we chose those two independent variables, which reflect the properties of the intermediate filaments (modulus) and the matrix (break strain) in the composite structure of the hair cortex. - Results : The results support the ‘seasonal’ hypothesis and clearly show that the variables show significant changes from Winter to Summer (modulus: 10% increase; break strain: 3% decrease). The seasonal effect was thus a major reason, why the first stage of the analysis of the data was inconclusive. - Conclusions : The tensile properties of the main morphological components of the cortex show distinct seasonal changes. Towards the summer, the hair becomes stiffer and more brittle. Furthermore, the results suggest that seasonal effects may need to be taken into account when conducting studies on lengths of hair grown during different seasons. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design and sets of hair samples - Hair fibre testing - Sample preparation and diameter determination - Tensile testing and choice of variables - Two-factor ANOVA - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Modulus (wet) - Break strain - Table 1 : Overall sample acquisition through the trial, arranged with respect to the two factors Phase (1, 2) and Treatment (A, B) - Table 2 : Results of the 2F-ANOVA for modulus - Table 3 : Results of the 2F-ANOVA for break strain DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12917 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UpsnG9LvkT28wvy8MirS8SkpQU2pHrtG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40735 [article]

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Deep skin homogeneity and light diffusion : An accelerated Monte Carlo model for in vivo skin characterization and consumer perception / Germain Puccetti in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

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Eco labels, an exciting topic for SEPAWA CONGRESS 2024 / Barbara Olioso in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 9 (09/2024)  

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Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women : A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study / Stéphanie Dudonné in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

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Evaluation of aloins, pH and moisture in aloe leaf gel-based personal care products / Gereziher Sibhat in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)  

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Facial radiance influences facial attractiveness and affective impressions of faces / Hanako Ikeda in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

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How to prove pro-ageing claims in vivo / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)  

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Imaging and visualization : A game changer in claim substantiation / Remo Campiche in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

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Investigating the effect of the pH of foot care product formulations on pedal skin in diabetic and non-diabetic subjects / Andreas Fitzner in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

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Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis / Steven Breakspear in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

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Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach / Anika Bluemke in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

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Niacinamide mitigates SASP-related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin / John C. Bierman in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

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A novel Ca2+ double cone vector system to treat compromised skin / Julia Baumann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

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Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy / Morgane de Tollenaere in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

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Oxidative stress in the skin : Impact and related protection / Juanjuan Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)  

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Purified Cannabidiol isolate does not inhibit active caspase-1 release in NLRP inflammasome-mediated UVB or ATP-activated keratinocytes or appear to reduce key inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiate keratinocytes / James V. Gruber in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 3 (06/2021)  

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