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Brief descriptions of the principles of prominent methods used to study the penetration of materials into human hair and a review of examples of their use in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 113-122 Titre : Brief descriptions of the principles of prominent methods used to study the penetration of materials into human hair and a review of examples of their use Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 113-122 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Cheveux -- analyse Cortex (poil) Diffusion (physique) Microscopie Pénétration (physique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers are attracted to the latest fashion trends and different looks. This drives the search for novel hair treatments. Some chemicals present in hair treatment products can penetrate the hair shaft. These materials can either nourish or injure the hair cortex. Different techniques have been used to investigate the mechanism of molecule penetration and the conditions under which penetration occurs. This article reviews the techniques applied for this purpose. Various microscopy techniques are used to capture clear and colourful images to determine the diffusion pathways and the exact location of the molecules under study. However, the laborious sample preparation often leads to sample destruction since cross-sectioning is often required. While various other techniques have been successfully used for investigating the penetration methods, most of these require different amounts of work to be put in for sample preparation and instrumentation. Several spectroscopic techniques have been used to study the penetration of the molecules because of the high levels of accuracy and the quick response time of these techniques. Moreover, the samples are not damaged during the investigation. Note de contenu : - Microscopy - Spectroscopic - Spectrophotometry - Chromatography - Radiolabelling - Autoradiography - Extraction methods - Nuclear reaction analysis - Molecular modelling - Optical coherence tomography - Colloid titration - Protein determination - Dynamic electrokinetic - Conclusions DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12683 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qsj12kMaedf1AG6Ddf6bryQdlQrRaPz2/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35750 [article]

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Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing : three clinical studies / S. Escobar in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 131-135 Titre : Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing : three clinical studies Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Escobar, Auteur ; A. Valois, Auteur ; M. Nielsen, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur ; D. Kerob, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 131-135 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules). - Methods : Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). - Results : The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow’s-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. - Conclusion : This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Study 1 : investigator-blinded study with dansyl chloride cell proliferation testing - Study 2 : open study with investigator clinical scoring and subject questionnaires Study 3: open study with instrumental quantification and subject questionnaires - Treatment formulation - Ethical considerations - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Study 1 : dansyl chloride testing - Study 2 : investigator clinical scoring - Study 3 : instrumental quantification on morphology of wrinkles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12665 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18HTF-vxqg4d2pCyRDXWoFdF7xZbCKBPZ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35751 [article]

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Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care / Olivia Eskens in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 123-130 Titre : Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Olivia Eskens, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 123-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Facteur de croissance (biochimie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Epidermal growth factors are important morphogenetic proteins that instruct cell behaviour. They have many inferred applications within regenerative medicine and have shown promising results in skincare treatments. Many growth factors are known to have skin anti-ageing benefits along with further potential in resolving scarring, acne and other skin disorders. Incorporation of these biologics into skincare formulations has been greatly hindered by low transdermal delivery efficacy, intricate material interactions and protein instability – especially within common cosmetic emulsions. This review explores the cosmeceutical capability of growth factors in skin care, current understandings of constituent interactions and advantageous delivery approaches for more effective topical delivery. The first section highlights the influences growth factor product formulation has on stability and synergy. Current understandings of growth factor formulating techniques in cosmetic products is limited, and the performance of other protein structures is an adequate point of reference. The second section examines emerging drug delivery systems to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment. It is important to consider the coaction and durability of all components in a formulation simultaneously : active ingredients, product format and delivery vehicle, in order to engineer an optimal cosmeceutical product. Note de contenu : - FORMULATION OF EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS IN SKIN CARE : Stability of EGF in formulations - Stability of EGF in manufacturing - Stability of EGF in storage - Bioengineering - Synergistic EGF formulation - TOPICAL DELIVERY TECHNIQUES FOR EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS : Physical enhancers - Scaffolds - Particulate systems - Liposomes - Smart response - Table 1 : EGF wound-healing patent formulations - Table 2 : Stability criteria for EGF product development - Table 3 : Summary of topical delivery systems DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12685 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nR28nQTZ5sTpP84T27UXkx_flesvh9F8/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35752 [article]

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Nanoemulsions containing plant oils : How do they influence hair treatment ? / F. L. Tamashiro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 136-143 Titre : Nanoemulsions containing plant oils : How do they influence hair treatment ? Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : F. L. Tamashiro, Auteur ; M. N. Yukuyama, Auteur ; M. V. R. Velasco, Auteur ; G. L. B. de Araujo, Auteur ; N. A. Bou-Chacra, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 136-143 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Nanoémulsions Produits capillaires Surfactants Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cosmetic and dermatological products, mainly the hair treatments, are projected to have remarkable growing in coming years. Nanotechnology, specifically nanoemulsions, has potential to be used in several hair products, owing to their beneficial properties. Concurrently, plant-derived cosmetics have become more popular over the years to consumers who prefer a safer, natural and sustainable approach. There is a lack of studies combining plant oils and nanotechnology for haircare formulations. In this work, different plant oil-loaded nanoemulsions were prepared to investigate the influence of their particle size, zeta potential and composition on hair treatment efficacy. - Methods : Coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils, alone or in combination, were loaded into nanoemulsions by high-pressure homogenization method (HPH). The mean particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were measured by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) method, and a stability test was performed for five months. A sensorial screening evaluation performed by the analyst and the combing test using Dia-Stron® instrumentation were applied on hair tresses treated by these nanoemulsions. - Results : The use of different plant oils for nanoemulsion resulted in distinct final particle sizes and zeta potential. However, results suggested no significant difference between them in hair tresses combing efficacy compared by Dia-Stron instrument testing. Moreover, the plant-loaded nanoemulsions with increased concentration of cationic surfactant indicated a 50% reduction in combing force using this device when compared to control, in addition to better sensory results by screening test compared to other nanoemulsions and control. - Conclusion : The composition of plant oils, particle size or zeta potential of the prepared nanoemulsions does not seem to significantly influence hair performance. Thus, we suggest that finding the right balance between cationic surfactant and plant oils may be the most appropriate path to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment. Note de contenu : - METHDODS : Preparation of nanoemulsions - Nanoemulsions Characterization - Stability study - Efficacy study on hair tresses - RESULTS : Determining mean particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and pH of nanoemulsions - Stability study - Efficacy study of hair tresses treated with plant oil-loaded nanoemulsions - DISCUSSION : Influence of particle size - Influence of zeta potential (ZP) - Influence of composition DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12667 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EewAfuI-GS0YzrLUuLIhpD5IRsSAkm3l/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35753 [article]

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Facial radiance influences facial attractiveness and affective impressions of faces / Hanako Ikeda in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 144-157 Titre : Facial radiance influences facial attractiveness and affective impressions of faces Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hanako Ikeda, Auteur ; Yuriko Saheki, Auteur ; Yuichi Sakano, Auteur ; Atsushi Wada, Auteur ; Hiroshi Ando, Auteur ; Keiko Tagai, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 144-157 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique) Clarté de la peau Couleur Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Perception visuelle Peau -- Physiologie Perception de l'âge Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Facial attractiveness has been reported to be influenced by visual features such as facial shape and the colour and texture of the skin. However, no empirical studies have examined the effects of facial skin radiance on facial attractiveness. The present study investigated whether types of skin reflection (i.e. radiant, oily and shiny, and matte) and the position of the reflection on the face influence facial attractiveness and other affective impressions. - Methods : A total of 160 female participants (1) estimated the ages and (2) evaluated attractiveness and other impressions of unfamiliar female faces in a total of seven skin reflection conditions. These conditions incorporated three types of reflection (i.e. radiant, oily and shiny, and matte) and three positions of the reflection on the face (i.e. entire facial skin, only cheeks, and only T-zone). - Results : The facial images of radiance on entire faces were rated as appearing younger than the facial images of oily shine on entire faces and the matte faces. Attractiveness ratings and other positive impressions increased in the order of the matte (ranked lowest), the oily shine on entire face, and the radiance on entire face (ranked highest) conditions. The reflection position also influenced facial attractiveness: attractiveness ratings and other positive impressions were higher in the radiance on entire face condition than in the radiant cheeks and the radiant T-zone conditions. Interestingly, the radiant cheek faces were rated more radiant and healthier but less feminine and less bright than the radiant T-zone faces. - Conclusion : These results suggest that facial radiance enhances facial attractiveness and conveys a wide variety of positive impressions on the observer. The magnitude of the effects of cheek radiance and T-zone radiance differs across various affective impressions. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that cheek and the T-zone radiance both contribute to higher attractiveness and other positive impressions of the radiance on entire faces. We believe that our findings can contribute as a guide to the enhancement of positive facial impressions by means of skin radiance, thereby leading to a better understanding of the value of skincare and base makeup. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Participants - Apparatus - Facial stimuli - Photography phase - Tasks and procedures - RESULTS : Task 1 - Task 2 - DISCUSSION : Âge estimation - Impressions of the face - Cultural effects - CONCLUSION - Table 1 : Differences in scores of paired comparison on Task 2. There were significant results at a 5% yardstick interval (*) and a 1% yardstick interval (**). (a)–(j) indicated each result of all questionnaires DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12673 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/150hTfHEbXOETdBBZxyDRu5WWAAvj0oU9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35754 [article]

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The efficacy of synthetic pseudo-ceramide for dry and rough lips / E. Tamura in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 158-164 Titre : The efficacy of synthetic pseudo-ceramide for dry and rough lips Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : E. Tamura, Auteur ; J. Ishikawa, Auteur ; T. Yamamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 158-164 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Lips can easily become dry and rough, one reason being the characteristics of their ceramide (CER) profile. Lips have lower levels of total ceramides, higher percentages of CER[NS] and CER[AS], and lower percentages of CER[NP] and CER[NH] than skin in other regions of the body. The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of synthetic pseudo-ceramide (pCer; Cetyl-PG hydroxyethyl palmitamide) to improve the dryness and roughness of the lips of healthy subjects in a formulation that exclude an occlusive effect. - METHODS : Thirty-one Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 21–37 years; mean 28.6) were enrolled in this study. A four-week continuous use test was conducted using samples with or without 0.5% or 2.0% pCer. The degree of lip roughness was scored, and values of capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and lip surface elasticity were measured. Endogenous CER profiles and absorption levels of pCer in the stratum corneum (SC) were analysed in tape-stripped skin specimens. - RESULTS : Treatment with the pCer-2.0% sample significantly improved the visual roughness score after 2 and 4 weeks compared to 0 weeks and compared to the Blank. Moreover, an improvement in TEWL was observed after 4 weeks of treatment with the pCer-2.0% sample. CER[NP] showed a significant increase in pCer-2.0% treated lips after 4 weeks compared to the Blank. Both pCer-0.5% and pCer-2.0% were significantly absorbed after 2 weeks compared with the Blank. - CONCLUSION : The effect of the synthetic pseudo-ceramide pCer to improve the roughness of lips was shown excluding the effect of occlusiveness derived from the formulation for the first time. Since the improvement of TEWL and absorption of pCer was observed, we concluded that pCer was first absorbed in rough lip areas, improved the ceramide profile and consequently restored the barrier function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics - Subjects - Materials - Measurement of occlusivity - Degree of lip roughness - Biophysical measurements of the SC and measurement of surface elasticity - Tape stripping and lipid analysis by LC/MS - Ceramide measurement - Quantification of SC exfoliation protein - Calculation of ceramide quantitative value - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Changes in appearance score - Changes in SC functions and elasticity - Changes in ceramide profile - Changes in the amount of pCer absorption into the SC DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12677 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14CrdS_9PQCZFWZsO88j9A1l0_aG6uU_1/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35755 [article]

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Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy / Morgane de Tollenaere in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 165-180 Titre : Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Emilie Chapuis, Auteur ; Laura Lapierre, Auteur ; Marine Bracq, Auteur ; Jane Hubert, Auteur ; Carole Lambert, Auteur ; Jérome Sandré, Auteur ; Daniel Auriol, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Romain Reynaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 165-180 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Barrière cutanée Chimie analytique Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Justification de l'allégation Lipides Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vetiver Le vetiver désigne un ensemble de plantes de la famille des Poaceae (Graminées). Il s'agit de plusieurs espèces du genre Chrysopogon (et anciennement placées dans le genre Vetiveria). On en connaît une douzaine d'espèces poussant dans les zones tropicales. La plus connue est Chrysopogon zizanioides qui pousse surtout sur le sous-continent indien. Deux autres espèces sont fréquemment cultivées : Chrysopogon nigritanus (Afrique australe) et Chrysopogon nemoralis (Asie du Sud-Est). La plante se présente sous forme de grandes touffes vertes, dont la racine, se développant verticalement, peut atteindre des profondeurs allant jusqu'à trois mètres. Usage en parfumerie : Après distillation, la racine de vétiver fournit une essence résineuse très épaisse utilisée en parfumerie. L'essence de vétiver appartient à la famille olfactive des boisés. C'est une essence à la saveur fine et complexe : boisée, aromatique, verte, quelquefois légèrement fumée. Le vétiver est principalement utilisé dans les parfums masculins, plus rarement dans les parfums féminins. Le parfumeur Guerlain crée en 1959 un parfum pour hommes nommé Vétiver, ainsi que Carven qui commercialise alors son parfum homonyme en deux versions homme et femme. Plus récemment, Dominique Ropion crée "Vétiver extraordinaire" pour les Éditions de parfum Frédéric Malle, en exploitant un procédé d'extraction qui limite les notes camphrées et permet d'utiliser l'essence à des concentrations élevées. En parfumerie, on utilise trois variétés différentes de racines de vétiver : le vétiver Bourbon (un des plus appréciés), le vétiver Haïti et le vétiver de Java (à l'odeur légèrement plus fumée). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. - Method : In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. - Results : We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. - Conclusion : In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals and reagents - Plant extract preparation - Extract fractionation by centrifugal partition chromatography - NMR analyses and metabolite identification - In vitro lipid neosynthesis in RHE - In vitro immunofluorescence staining of CERT, dermokine and involucrin - In vitro lipid accumulation on sebocytes - In vitro Antimicrobial Lipid (AML) synthesis using sebocytes - In vitro stimulation of pre-adipocytes differentiation - Ex vivo stimulation of keratinization - Ex vivo full-skin lipids accumulation in mature adipocytes - Clinical investigation of skin hydration and lipid conformation - Clinical investigation on sebum production in elderly volunteers - Clinical investigation on skin biomechanical property and wrinkles - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Chemical profiling of the Chrysopogon zizanioides exhausted root extract - Improvement of skin lipids involved in barrier function - Improvement of quality and quantity of lipids from sebum - Reshaping skin face by improvement of lipids synthesis from adipocytes DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12678 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GpqyZdKmUxsllJGgL4sKJVJ47Cx1MDvV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35756 [article]

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Quantitative ion determination in eccrine sweat gland cells correlates to sweat reduction of antiperspirant actives / J. Welzel in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 181-190 Titre : Quantitative ion determination in eccrine sweat gland cells correlates to sweat reduction of antiperspirant actives Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : J. Welzel, Auteur ; S. Grüdl, Auteur ; T. Welss, Auteur ; M. Claas, Auteur ; A. Sättler, Auteur ; T. Förster, Auteur ; B. Banowski, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 181-190 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiperspirants Biomolécules actives Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Ions Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistique Transpiration Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better understand the sweat mechanism and to develop alternative technologies against excessive sweating a search for an effective testing approach started as up to now, cost- and time-consuming in vivo studies represent the standard procedure for testing and identifying these alternatives. Material and methods : The herein described in vitro test system is based on the measurement of intracellular changes of the ion equilibrium in cultured eccrine sweat gland cells. Subsequently, in vivo studies on the back of volunteers were conducted to verify the sweat-reducing effect of in vitro newly discovered substance. - Results : In this study, we describe an effective cell-based in vitro method as a potent tool for a more targeted screening of alternatives to aluminium salts. Testing the commonly used aluminium chlorohydrate as one example of an aluminium-based active in this screening procedure, we discovered a distinct influence on the ion equilibrium: Intracellular levels of sodium ions were decreased while those of chloride increased. Screening of various substances revealed a polyethyleneimine, adjusted to pH 3.5 with hydrochloric acid, to evoke the same alterations in the ion equilibrium as aluminium chlorohydrate. Subsequent in vivo studies showed its substantial antiperspirant action and confirmed the high efficiency of the polyethyleneimine solution in vivo. Further, specific investigations connecting the chloride content of the tested substances with the resulting sweat reduction pointed towards a substantial impact of the chloride ions on sweating. - Conclusion : The newly described in vitro cell-based screening method represents an effective means for identifying new antiperspirant actives and suggests an additional biological mechanism of action of sweat-reducing ingredients which is directed towards unbalancing of the ion equilibrium inside eccrine sweat gland cells. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics statement - Cell culture - Determination of cell viability - Ion flux assays with fluorescence dyes - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : In vitro ion profile of the benchmark ACH - Concentration-dependent effect of the benchmark ACH - In vitro data reveal potent candidate - pH-dependent effect of PEI-HCl - In vivo sweat reduction efficacy of PEI-HCl - Chloride equivalent of ACH and PEI-HCl and its correlation to sweat reduction DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12679 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xj2duKMdT1kPtoQtaI4_lyiq19LF5k3J/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35761 [article]

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Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer / Hans Stettler in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 191-200 Titre : Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hans Stettler, Auteur ; Jonathan M. Crowther, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Bailu Lu, Auteur ; Alison Boxshall, Auteur ; Raffaella de Salvo, Auteur ; Sabrina Laing, Auteur ; Natascha Hennighausen, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Peter Blenkiron, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 191-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Biotechnologie Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation. - Methods : A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin. Results : Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant. - Conclusions : Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites for the hydration measures and assessments throughout the study (Week 1, 2 and 3 – W1, W2 and W3). Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in bold - Table 2 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites at the end of Week 3 for SC barrier function, Confocal Raman Spectroscopy parameters (SC/SD thickness and lipid to protein ratio), Lipbarvis ® SC lipid levels and lamella bilayer length, and corneocyte maturity. Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites at the end of the study. Data given to 2 decimal points where available. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in bold DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12680 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16ul5o2NCoj5vS5-XOLrJeC2z8AmYkWKz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35762 [article]

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EcoSun Pass : A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products / S. Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 201-210 Titre : EcoSun Pass : A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Pawlowski, Auteur ; B. Herzog, Auteur ; M. Sohn, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur ; S. Acker, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 201-210 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ecotoxicologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light-induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high-quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA-PF). - Methods : For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU-approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool. - Results : The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters. - Conclusion : These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Composition of sunscreens and rationale for this approach - Substances evaluated - Efficacy of UV filters - Data sources - Evaluation of the environmental hazard score - Determination of the overall hazard score - Cut-off criteria - Ecotoxicological ranking of compositions - Example calculations and threshold criterion - RESULTS : Environmental hazard score of co-formulants - Environmental hazard score of the UV filters - Environmental hazard score of other excipients used in sunscreens - Cut-off criteria - Ecotoxicological ranking of compositions - Table 1. Overview of EU-approved UV filters used in cosmetic sunscreen products - Table 2. Environmental chapters, relevant criteria and related scores DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12681 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qfmdF-xjpUvbRQ0YMxwdPyCVleQvjPri/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35763 [article]

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The human melanocyte and melanoblast populations per unit area of epidermis in the rete ridge are greater than in the inter-rete ridge / Tomohisa Hirobe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 211-217 Titre : The human melanocyte and melanoblast populations per unit area of epidermis in the rete ridge are greater than in the inter-rete ridge Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Tomohisa Hirobe, Auteur ; Hisao Enami, Auteur ; Ai Nakayama, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 211-217 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Dermatologie Dopa La 3,4-dihydroxyphénylalanine (abréviée en DOPA ou dopa) est une substance intermédiaire dans la synthèse des catécholamines. Elle possède deux isomères optiques, la L-DOPA ou L-dopa (ou lévodopa, dénomination pharmacologique internationale), lévogyre, et la D-DOPA ou D-dopa, dextrogyre. La L-DOPA est la forme stéréo-isomérique lévogyre métabolisable par l'organisme. Sa décarboxylation par la DOPA-décarboxylase produit la dopamine. La L-DOPA est capable de franchir la barrière hémato-encéphalique. C'est une substance qui est utilisée dans le traitement de la maladie de Parkinson en augmentant le taux de dopamine. Epiderme Génétique Peau -- Physiologie Pré-mélamine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In human skin, melanocytes and melanoblasts are mostly located in the epidermis in addition to hair follicles. In hairy skin such as mouse skin, the inter-follicular epidermis is generally flat. In contrast, in human skin, the epidermis is wavy and possesses well-developed rete ridges. It is not well understood what difference exists in cell function between melanocytes present in the inter-rete ridge and those in the rete ridge. To clarify this problem, we first tried to determine the melanocyte and melanoblast populations per unit area of epidermis both in the rete ridge and inter-rete ridge epidermis. - Methods : Thirty-eight samples from normal skin sites of 28 patients (14 males and 14 females) aged from 5 to 76 years were fixed and processed to dopa and combined dopa-premelanin reactions. The numbers of cells positive to the dopa (melanocytes) and combined dopa-premelanin (melanoblasts and melanocytes) reactions were scored. Results : The average melanocyte population/0.1 mm2 of the inter-rete ridge was 74 cells, whereas that of the rete ridge was 147 cells. Moreover, the average melanoblast population/0.1 mm2 in the inter-rete ridge was 43 cells, whereas that of the rete ridge was 131 cells. The melanoblast population in the rete ridge differed between female and male, but the melanocyte populations in the rete ridge and inter-rete ridge and the melanoblast population in the inter-rete ridge did not differ between female and male. However, no age difference in the melanocyte and melanoblast populations was observed between the rete ridge and inter-rete ridge. - Conclusion : Human epidermal melanocytes and melanoblasts in the rete ridge exist more numerously than in the inter-rete ridge. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Collection of skin samples - Histochemistry - Statistics - RESULTS : Histochemistry of human skin - The melanocyte and melanoblast populations in the rete ridge and inter-rete ridge - Gender difference in the melanocyte and melanoblast populations - Age difference in the melanocyte and melanoblast populations - Table 1 : Number of human melanocytes and melanoblasts in the inter-rete ridge (IRR), rete ridge (RR) and whole epidermis in addition to the ratio of RR to IRR of melanocytes and melanoblasts of several normal skin sites - Table 2 : Gender difference in the number of human melanocytes and melanoblasts in the inter-rete ridge (IRR), rete ridge (RR) and whole epidermis in addition to the ratio of RR to IRR of melanocytes and melanoblasts of several normal skin sites DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12682 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZE_ma87CEm7vIdQCQ6uL4l_Fzubr-yPi/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35764 [article]

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Effects of petrolatum, a petrolatum depositing body wash and a regular body wash on biomarkers and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum / Karl Wei in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 218-224 Titre : Effects of petrolatum, a petrolatum depositing body wash and a regular body wash on biomarkers and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Karl Wei, Auteur ; Ching Stella, Auteur ; Kenneth Wehmeyer, Auteur ; Jeremy Christman, Auteur ; Amy Altemeier, Auteur ; Russell Spruell, Auteur ; Rohan Wimalasena, Auteur ; Gina Fadayel, Auteur ; R. Randall Wickett, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 218-224 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide pyrrolidone carboxylique Cosmétiques Facteur naturel d'hydratation Gel douche Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Protéines Statistique Vaseline Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Background : An important trend in the personal care industry involves the development of body wash products that not only clean the skin without damage but deposit conditioning ingredients to improve skin barrier function. Objective : The objective of this study was to develop skin biomarker measures to quantify the treatment effects of body wash products. Methods : We employed analysis of structural proteins (keratin 1,10,11 and involucrin), a natural moisturizing factor (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) and an inflammatory mediator (IL-1ra/IL-1α) from adhesive discs with dry skin grading, TEWL and capacitance measurements to compare the effects of direct application of petrolatum, a high petrolatum depositing body wash, and a regular body wash on dry leg skin in a standard leg-wash treatment protocol. Results : High depositing body wash and petrolatum had positive effects on stratum corneum barrier function as judged by biomarker analysis, biophysical measurements and skin grading compared to the regular body wash product. Conclusions : The results clearly indicate that a combination of biomarker and biophysical property measurements is effective for determining the skin benefits of moisturizing body wash products. Note de contenu : - Subjects - Treatment protoco - Biophysical measurements and SC sampling - D-squame analysis scheme - Statistical methods - Table 1. Skin measurements at baseline (base size n = 45) - Table 2. Direction of changes in biophysical and biomarker parameters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12684 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/161WS2KbJbVsv7-tFcoghUsu078LyZdoA/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35765 [article]

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Effect of hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application / Astrid Pany in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 263-268 Titre : Effect of hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Astrid Pany, Auteur ; Marie Wohlgenannt, Auteur ; Safoura Klopprogge, Auteur ; Michael Wolzt, Auteur ; Thomas Heuser, Auteur ; Harald Kotisch, Auteur ; Claudia Valenta, Auteur ; Victoria Klang, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 263-268 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Caractérisation Colloides Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rhéologie Statistique Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set-up. - Methods : Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo-transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study (n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin-pH-Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels. - Results : Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations. - Conclusion : Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP-β-CD. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of formulations - Characterization and stability of the employed formulations - Cryo-transmission electron microscopy (TEM) - Mean droplet size, PDI and pH - Rheological properties - Effect of formulations on skin parameters: study design - Effect of formulations on skin parameters: biophysical analysis - Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) - Calculation of skin parameter changes - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Formulation development and characterization - Effect on physiological skin parameters - Table 1 : Composition of the investigated formulations in % w/w DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12674 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w4WxWstTSlMkwISgKXc12tp01lmVp-Q5/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35766 [article]

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Permeability coefficients and vapour pressure determination for fragrance materials / Rafael N. Almeida in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 225-234 Titre : Permeability coefficients and vapour pressure determination for fragrance materials Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rafael N. Almeida, Auteur ; João G. M. Hartz, Auteur ; Patrícia F. Costa, Auteur ; Alirio E. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Rubem M. F. Vargas, Auteur ; Eduardo Cassel, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 225-234 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Evaporation Franz, Cellules de Modèles numériques Parfums Pénétration (physique) Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This study aims to correlate new experimental data relevant to the description of the combined evaporation/permeation process of a perfume applied onto the skin. - Methods : The vapour pressure data were measured by thermogravimetric analysis (TG-DTA). The Antoine constants and the Clarke and Glew parameters were determined for the same set of fragrance molecules to describe its low vapour pressures at new temperature ranges. The permeability coefficient of a set of 14 fragrance molecules in ethanolic solution was determined by Franz diffusion cell experiments, using porcine skin. The samples were analysed by gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) and high-performance liquid chromatography with UV visible detector (HPLC/UV). A QSAR model was proposed to correlate the experimental data. - Results : The Antoine constants were determined and presented low standard deviations. The Clarke and Glew physically significant parameters were obtained along with its statistical analysis. The fitting is good since the magnitude order is in accordance with the literature, associated with the low correlation between the estimated parameters and low standard deviations. The presented correlation, based on a mixture using only ethanol as solvent, showed better results than previous QSAR models with a standard relative deviation (δr) of 0.190, a standard error (SE) of 0.397 and a determination coefficient (R2) of 0.7786. - Conclusion : The dataset is still small compared to larger and more general QSAR models; however, it is much more specific as to the type of solvent and class of materials studied. This work represents an advance for the modelling of the perfume diffusion process since it specifies important properties that until then had been treated in a more general way. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Pig ears skin preparation - In vitro skin permeation - Quantification - Vapour pressure - Permeability coefficient and QSAR model - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Vapour pressure - Permeability coefficient - Table 1 : Properties of the fragrance materials - Table 2 : Antoine estimated vapour pressure parameters - Table 3 : Parameters of Clarke and Glew equation derived from vapour pressure data at the reference temperatureθ = 298.15 K and pressureP0 = 105 Pa - Table 4 : Experimental and correlated skin permeability coefficients of the studied fragrance materials DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12686 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18HTF-vxqg4d2pCyRDXWoFdF7xZbCKBPZ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35874 [article]

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Reproducing the scalp microbiota community : co-colonization of a 3D reconstructed human epidermis with C. acnes and M. restricta / Marisa Meloni in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 235-245 Titre : Reproducing the scalp microbiota community : co-colonization of a 3D reconstructed human epidermis with C. acnes and M. restricta Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marisa Meloni, Auteur ; Silvia Balzaretti, Auteur ; Nathalie Collard, Auteur ; Stéphane Desaint, Auteur ; Céline Laperdrix, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 235-245 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir chevelu Dermatologie Justification de l'allégation Microbiologie Microbiome cutané Pellicules (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with specific microbial strains was developed to model the complex interactions between strains of the human scalp hair. - Methods : Reconstructed human epidermis was colonized with Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia restricta for 72 h. The epidermal model was characterized in terms of morphology, using immune-labelling targeting biomarkers for barrier structure, proliferation, differentiation and anti-microbial defence. The barrier function was assessed by transepithelial electrical eesistance (TEER) measurements. In order to study the microorganisms on the epidermal model, viable counts and phenotype ultrastructure analysis were performed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). - Results : The RHE colonized with C. acnes did not lead to severe modifications of the physiological barrier integrity and viability, though it shows aggregates. M. restricta formed large aggregates by a close interaction with the RHE, thus causing both a strong decrease in barrier function and structure degradation and an increased human beta defensin 2 (HBD2) expression. The co-colonized model resulted in barrier depletion, but the overall damage was less severe, respecting the single colonization with M. restricta. The developed ‘scalp model’ allowed to identify morphological modifications leading to uncontrolled epidermal renewal. - Conclusion : This study shows a pre-clinical model that recapitulates the interactions that can occur between site-specific microbial strains and keratinocytes in dandruff condition. The model can be applied to assess ingredients and products’ mechanism of action. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test system - C. acnes and M. restricta inoculum - RHE colonization - Bacteria and yeast viable counting - Transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) measurements - Histo-morphological analysis: haematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining - Immunofluorescence staining - Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) - RESULTS : Skin integrity : TEER measurements - Barrier structure and function: morphology by H&E staining - Epidermal differentiation : KRT 10 and KRT 14 immunofluorescence - Epidermal barrier and Stratum Corneum proteins expression : involucrin and loricrin immunofluorescence - Innate and anti-microbial response : beta defensin and elafin immunofluorescence - RHE colonization - Table 1 : Transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) measurements expressed in Ohm*cm2 at basal time (t = 0 h) and after 72 h incubation. Duplicate biological samples - Table 2 : Viable count on the apical compartment after 72 h colonization with C. acnes, M. restricta and co-colonization DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12688 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rtvUS5BBX75BnZj43mJbvG0fpW3eusVP/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35875 [article]

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Impact of polyelectrolyte-surfactant interactions on the rheology and wet lubrication performance of conditioning shampoo / Adeline Maria Benhur in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 246-253 Titre : Impact of polyelectrolyte-surfactant interactions on the rheology and wet lubrication performance of conditioning shampoo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Adeline Maria Benhur, Auteur ; Jangelis Diaz, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 246-253 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Lubrification Polyélectrolytes Rhéomètres shampooings Surfactants Viscoélasticité Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The purpose of this study is to understand the impact of the cationic polymer merquat on the rheological behavior of the mixed surfactant system of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CapB) as well as the impact of varying formulation conditions on the wet lubrication performance of the SLES-CapB-Merquat system. - Methods : Rotation mechanical Rheometry was used to study the rheological response of the SLES-CapB-Merquat systems. Frequency sweeps were conducted to analyze the rheological properties of the system at low frequency ranges and bulk viscosity of the system was studied at high shear rates at varying salt and polymer concentrations. Wet combing tests and hair friction tests were run on the Dia-stron MTT175 flexible miniature tensile tester in order to evaluate the conditioning effects of the different formulations. - Results : The SLES-CapB system on its own exhibits very little viscosity. The bulk rheology results show that the addition of Merquat enhances the viscosity and viscoelastic properties of the SLES-CapB-Merquat system indicating the presence of electrostatic interactions between the surfactant and polyelectrolyte. Addition of salt had a significant impact on the system’s rheological response due to the charge screening effect of salt. Wet combing force data indicate that the charged polyelectrolyte binds to the hair substrate resulting in reduced combing force values after the product was applied. The addition of silicone oil to the formulation seemed to greatly enhance the conditioning effect of the formulation. - Conclusion : The charge interactions between SLES, CapB and Merquat results in the formation of an integrated gel like network, thus building the viscosity of the system. Variation of parameters like polymer and salt concentration has the potential to modify the bulk rheological properties and consequently the wet lubrication properties of the system. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of polymer concentration - Effect of salt - Wet lubrication performance - Technique - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological properties - Table 1 & 2 : Percentage reduction in wet combing force for the different formulations with varying polymer and silicone oil concentrations - Table 3 : Percentage reduction in coefficient of friction values for the different formulations with varying polymer, salt and silicone oil concentrations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12689 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KhJn1czcTPMjtiTFkzLWBGzanEmExWSk/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35876 [article]

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A highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair III : Characterization of the structure CARB / Toshie Takahashi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 254-262 Titre : A highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair III : Characterization of the structure CARB Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Toshie Takahashi, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 254-262 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Caractérisation Cheveux -- Anatomie Cheveux -- Biologie Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Teinture Colorants Cortex (poil) Cosmétiques Cuticule Cystine La cystine est un acide aminé composé de deux unités cystéine liées par un pont disulfure. Glycolipides Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : It was previously reported that a highly resistant structure, which functions as a barrier against the penetration of dyes, is present at the interface between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. That structure was named CARB, cuticle anchored resistant base. The goal of this study was to clarify the formation and composition of the structure CARB. - Methods : Cuticular substructures were observed from the keratinized area of each hair to its root end. The positions where the CARB structure appeared were isolated, and the barrier ability before and after that structure was evaluated. The distributions of glycolipid and cystine were measured using a nano-IR and a transmission electron microscope (TEM). - Results : Cuticular substructures were fully constructed several mm from the hair bulb of the hairs observed. The results show that keratinization at the distal side of the cuticle cell precedes that of the proximal side, and CARB is fully constructed last among the substructures. Glycolipid was preferentially distributed at CARB in the keratinized area. The cystine content of CARB is lower than that of the A-layer; however, it is slightly higher than that of the exocuticle and the inner layer. - Conclusion : These results demonstrate that CARB is produced in the final stage of keratinization of the cuticle layers. The rich contents of glycolipid and cystine might contribute to its resistant property. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Chemicals - Observations of cuticular substructures and dye penetration - Distribution of glycolipid - Distribution of SS bonds - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Development process of cuticular substructures - Barrier level before and after the structure completion - Distribution of glycolipid before and after the structure completion - Distribution of cystine - Table 1 : Distances of points observed from the root end of the hair samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12691 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1opcBVJVwL1svUT8HMLNhEL9IO8wxgPBF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35877 [article]

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