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Capacitive contact imaging - New clinical sreening method for aluminum free products / Britta Malcher in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
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Titre : Capacitive contact imaging - New clinical sreening method for aluminum free products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Britta Malcher, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aluminium L'aluminium est un élément chimique, de symbole Al et de numéro atomique 13. C’est un métal pauvre, malléable, de couleur argent, qui est remarquable pour sa résistance à l’oxydation13 et sa faible densité. C'est le métal le plus abondant de l'écorce terrestre et le troisième élément le plus abondant après l'oxygène et le silicium ; il représente en moyenne 8 % de la masse des matériaux de la surface solide de notre planète. L'aluminium est trop réactif pour exister à l'état natif dans le milieu naturel : on le trouve au contraire sous forme combinée dans plus de 270 minéraux différents, son minerai principal étant la bauxite, où il est présent sous forme d’oxyde hydraté dont on extrait l’alumine. Il peut aussi être extrait de la néphéline, de la leucite, de la sillimanite, de l'andalousite et de la muscovite.
L'aluminium métallique est très oxydable, mais est immédiatement passivé par une fine couche d'alumine Al2O3 imperméable de quelques micromètres d'épaisseur qui protège la masse métallique de la corrosion. On parle de protection cinétique, par opposition à une protection thermodynamique, car l’aluminium reste en tout état de cause très sensible à l'oxydation. Cette résistance à la corrosion et sa remarquable légèreté en ont fait un matériau très utilisé industriellement.
L'aluminium est un produit industriel important, sous forme pure ou alliée, notamment dans l'aéronautique, les transports et la construction. Sa nature réactive en fait également un catalyseur et un additif dans l'industrie chimique ; il est ainsi utilisé pour accroître la puissance explosive du nitrate d'ammonium.
Antiperspirants
Gravimétrie (chimie analytique)
Imagerie (technique)
Sels d'aluminium -- Produits de remplacement
Transpiration -- analyseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Althrough a natural function of the skin, perspiration and the odor it produces is considered offensive in many cultures, and consequently products addressing this problem are in high demand. Antiperspirants and most deodorants are normally formulated with aluminum salts. However concerns over environmentaly safety, health and wellbeing are driving innovation in new directions.
A wide appreciation of the effects of antiperspirants and deodorants on the skins natural microbiome is taking centre stage, and the desire for more natural microbiome friendly products is leading to new development, both in formulations and performance testing methods. In order to investigate the efficacy of antiperspirants at the early stages of developments, a screening test based on the gravimetric sweat determination, by appyling cotton pads to harvest the sweat, is preferably used. However, this standard test does not work with all aluminum-free antiperspirants, especially those containing film forming actives where the contact with cotton pads may lead to a measurement bias. In the present work we describe a new screening method using Capacitive Contact Imaging in which the sweat reducing effect of a new generation of non-plug forming actives can be evaluated without application of pads to sample the sweat. In evaluating the method, a differentiation between the effect of different substances was observed. In summary, Capacitive Contact Imaging with appropriate image analysis is a reproductible and innovative approach for the efficacy of non-aluminum containing, as well as aluminum containing antiperspirants, especially for those for which gravimetric methods fail to produce accruate results.Note de contenu : - Cosmetic applications
- Antiperspirant efficacy - current methods
- Aluminum-free - challenges & limits of current methods
- Capacitive contact imaging (CCI) and gravimetric method comparison
- Method principle
- Results
- Table 1 : Summary of key comparative points between CCI and the current gravimetric method in relation to antiperspirants.
- Table 2 : Investigated products and substancesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WcMYLyCnxVSf-iHgzKVViBMjixATGoga/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32020
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 28-34[article]Réservation
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Titre : Investigating the effect of the pH of foot care product formulations on pedal skin in diabetic and non-diabetic subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Katrin Knuhr, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 524-538 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Humidité
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
pH
Pieds -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Tests de sécuritéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The use of skin care formulations with acidic pHs is seen as an effective method to maintain the acidic mantel of the skin; however, because the skin pH varies depending on the area of the body and as data are lacking for the skin pH of the feet, there was a need to examine whether this assumption holds true for skin care formulations designed for the foot. Thus, three foot creams formulated with a neutral, acidic or alkaline pH were compared with each other as well as to an untreated control group in order to analyse their impact on skin pH, hydration and general skin condition.
- Methods : An exploratory clinical investigation with 60 enrolled subjects, half of whom had a diagnosis of diabetes (type 1 or type 2), was undertaken. The investigation followed a randomized, double-blind, balanced incomplete block design (BIBD) including intra-individual comparison (before and after treatment). Evaluations of skin pH and hydration were carried out using a pH meter and a Corneometer respectively. Objective evaluation of skin condition for efficacy assessment was performed by a trained grader. For tolerability evaluation, objective and subjective dermatological assessments were performed.
- Results : At the end of the treatment period, the skin pH was largely unchanged at five out of six of the test areas, with the mean value for each treatment group using test products showing similar fluctuations as the untreated control group. Furthermore, the skin condition parameters studied all improved by a comparable magnitude for each of the treatment groups using the test products, whereas the untreated control group experienced a worsening of the skin condition parameters.
- Conclusions : The results of this investigation suggest that where the skin of the foot is concerned, the pH of skin care formulations has no (physiologically) relevant influence on the skin's pH in either diabetic or non-diabetic subjects. Furthermore, the expectation that acidic formulations would be more beneficial for the skin's condition was not found to hold true for the skin of the foot, as no significant difference was observed between the performance of the three test products investigated in this study.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test products - Study design - Subjects - Procedures and assessments
- RESULTS : Drop-outs, adverse reactions and deviations - Skin pH following product application - Skin hydration following product application - Objective and subjective evaluation of the condition of the skin following product application
- Table 1 : Test product description
- Table 2 : Allocation of measurements and test areas
- Table 3 : Study schedule
- Table 4 : Demographics of analysed subjects
- Table 5 : Mean number of callus per treatment groupDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12861 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AMOS8WcVf-ad0FByOi371Dk_KBNBRu31/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39882
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 524-538[article]Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer / Hans Stettler in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
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Titre : Targeted dry skin treatment using a multifunctional topical moisturizer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hans Stettler, Auteur ; Jonathan M. Crowther, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Bailu Lu, Auteur ; Alison Boxshall, Auteur ; Raffaella de Salvo, Auteur ; Sabrina Laing, Auteur ; Natascha Hennighausen, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Peter Blenkiron, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 191-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Barrière cutanée
Biotechnologie
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3-week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation.
- Methods : A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water-based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3-week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin.
Results : Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant.
- Conclusions : Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product.Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites for the hydration measures and assessments throughout the study (Week 1, 2 and 3 – W1, W2 and W3). Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in bold
- Table 2 : Differences to baseline and between the treated and untreated sites at the end of Week 3 for SC barrier function, Confocal Raman Spectroscopy parameters (SC/SD thickness and lipid to protein ratio), Lipbarvis ® SC lipid levels and lamella bilayer length, and corneocyte maturity. Also shown are the differences between the treated and untreated sites at the end of the study. Data given to 2 decimal points where available. Statistical differences (paired t-test) with >95% significance are shown in boldDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12680 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16ul5o2NCoj5vS5-XOLrJeC2z8AmYkWKz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35762
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 191-200[article]