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Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition / Romain Duroux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)
[article]
Titre : Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Romain Duroux, Auteur ; Vincent Baillif, Auteur ; Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Morgane Farge, Auteur ; Alban Maurin, Auteur ; Thierry Suère, Auteur ; Emeline VanGoethem, Auteur ; Joan Attia, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 614-624 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires
Antioxydants
Barrière cutanée
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract.
- METHODS : The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro-CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analysed by LC–MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated.
- RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro-CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease in sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analysed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase in Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decrease in pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health.
- CONCLUSION : The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - In vitro cell studies - Ex vivo study - Clinical trial
- RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract decreases oxidative stress and inflammation in HFDPC cultures - Anetholea anisita extract decreases the volume of sebaceous glands from scalp - Anetholea anisita extract clinically decreases pro-inflammatory markers and increases SPMs in scalp sebum - Anetholea anisita extract clinically improves scalp condition and decreases dandruff
- Table 1 : Clinical trial formulationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12813 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w3tBFMwD4mmgtIGsOpjfcLJw4_DrCVt1/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38386
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 614-624[article]The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence / K. Kennedy in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)
[article]
Titre : The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : K. Kennedy, Auteur ; R. Cal, Auteur ; R. Casey, Auteur ; C. Lopez, Auteur ; A. Adelfio, Auteur ; B. Molloy, Auteur ; A. M. Wall, Auteur ; T. A. Holton, Auteur ; N. Khaldi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 388-398 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Composés organiques -- Synthèse
Dermo-cosmétologie
Elisa, TestLe test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée.
Génétique
Intelligence artificielle
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Protéines
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à -dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing.
- Methods : A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study.
- Results : In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential.
- Conclusion : pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Deep learning : classifier training and peptide prediction - Cell culture - BrdU cell proliferation assay - Scratch wound assay - Elastin and hydroxyproline ELISA - RNA Isolation and real-time QPCR - Immunofluorescence staining - Human skin explants - Statistics - Pilot human clinical study
- RESULTS : A peptide from the pea proteome with anti-ageing potential - Pep_RTE62G stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration - Pep_RTE62G induces the production of the ECM proteins - ECM protein stimulation capacity of pep_RTE62G is upheld ex vivo - pep_RTE62G suggests clinical anti-ageing effectsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12635 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rZMFrbwynbE27D_nfWjee7As_m8Xb_7d/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35290
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 388-398[article]The effect of Salix alba L. bark extract on dark circles in vitro and in vivo / Suwon Jeon in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)
[article]
Titre : The effect of Salix alba L. bark extract on dark circles in vitro and in vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Suwon Jeon, Auteur ; Sohyun Yoon, Auteur ; Yuna Kim, Auteur ; Seoungwoo Shin, Auteur ; Hyanggi Ji, Auteur ; Eunae Cho, Auteur ; Deokhoon Park, Auteur ; Eunsun Jung, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 636-646 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cernes
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ongle -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Dark circles in the infraorbital area are a common cosmetic concern among individuals because they exhibit fatigue and are undesirable across all ages. Of the dark circle etiologies, blood stasis by poor-vascular integrity can cause darkening of the lower eyelid skin, which might be alleviated by reduced endothelial permeability. In this study, we investigated the effects of Salix alba bark extract (SABE) on the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) in fibroblasts and vascular integrity protection from inflammatory cytokine. We also performed a clinical trial investigating the effect of SABE on dark circles.
- Methods : To confirm the effect of SABE on HA synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), we performed ELISA and real-time PCR. We investigated the interaction HDF-secreted substance with vascular integrity, and human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMEC-1) were treated with conditioned medium (CM) from HDF treated with or without SABE. Subsequently, we conducted a clinical study on 29 subjects by having them apply SABE containing cream for 8 weeks.
- Results : Salix alba bark extract treatment increased HA synthesis and regulated HMW–HA-related gene expressions in HDF. CM from SABE-treated HDF alleviated endothelial permeability and led to improved vascular integrity in HMEC-1 cells. Treatment with the cream containing 2% SABE for 8 weeks improved the parameters measuring dark circles, skin microcirculation and elasticity.
- Conclusion : Our results showed that SABE could protect against dark circles in vitro, and that topical treatment of SABE improved the clinical indexes of dark circles in a clinical study. Therefore, SABE can be used as an active ingredient for improving dark circles.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of Salix alba bark extract (SABE) - Cell culture and reagent - Hyaluronic acid enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - RNA preparation and quantitative realtime PCR - Endothelial permeability assays - Preparation of cream - Clinical trial on dark circles
- RESULTS : SABE increases HA synthesis and regulates HA-related genes in HDF - Conditioned medium produced by HDF reinforces vascular endothelial integrity in HMEC-1 - Effect of SABE on infraorbital dark circles in clinical trial
- Table 1 : Formulation of test and placebo cream
- Table 2 : Dark circles grade scaleRéférence de l'article : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12873 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1obc6x3Pt5lk3aseRPepM4h_TCBrfAukX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40090
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 636-646[article]The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D-Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications / Shaher Duchi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)
[article]
Titre : The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D-Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shaher Duchi, Auteur ; Paloma Rebollo Torregrosa, Auteur ; Akram Hajuj, Auteur ; Danit Molho, Auteur ; Rawya Shkoor, Auteur ; Nadeen Abo Saada, Auteur ; David González Fernández, Auteur ; Danny Goldstein, Auteur ; Alejandro Pérez-Fernández, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 119-129 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Génétique
kératineLa kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse.
La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules.
La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine.
Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence.
Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil.
Mélanine
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To develop and evaluate the efficacy of WS Biotin, a novel water-soluble form of D-Biotin, for cosmetic use.
- Methods : A new encapsulated form of D-Biotin was developed with the purpose of improving the water solubility of biotin. This novel form of encapsulated biotin was characterized by its physicochemical properties: particle size, D-Biotin content and solubility in water. Also, proliferation and gene expression in vitro tests in cell culture were performed to evaluate its effectiveness in promoting hair growth, an ELISA test was conducted for hair keratinization and skin lightening property was tested by analysing the intracellular melanin content.
- Results : The developed WS Biotin microcapsules exhibit a particle size range of 2–30 μm with D-Biotin content of ~50% (w/w). The water solubility of WS Biotin was found to be 20-fold greater than free biotin. The obtained in vitro results indicated that WS Biotin enhances the expression of hair-related keratins in hair follicle keratinocytes, as well as the expression of hair growth-promoting genes in dermal papilla cells. Moreover, the melanin content in UVA-exposed epidermal melanocytes was reduced upon exposure to WS Biotin.
- Conclusion : In this work, a novel form of encapsulated biotin, WS Biotin, was developed in order to improve the water solubility of free biotin and was found to be effective for cosmetic use in both hair and skin applications.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of WS Biotin - Determination of D-Biotin content, entrapment efficacy and yield - Size and morphological characterization - Solubility test - Cell culture - Cell viability - Cell proliferation - Quantification of hair keratins - Gene expression of hair growth-related growth factors - Melanin quantification
- RESULTS : Determination of D-Biotin content, entrapment efficacy and yield - WS Biotin powder characterization - WS Biotin water solubility test - Characterization of the cytotoxicity profile of WS Biotin in different in vitro models - Influence of biotin WS in the proliferation of hair follicle keratinocytes - WS Biotin promotes the expression of hair shaft keratins - Modulation of hair growth-related genes by WS Biotin - Whitening potential of WS BiotinDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12914 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmKumJh5Vc7WU_OMGRPe3E4Dt9eZdDz4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40584
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 119-129[article]The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells / Florian Labarrade in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
[article]
Titre : The impact of airborne ultrafine particulate matter on human keratinocyte stem cells Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Florian Labarrade, Auteur ; Céline Meyrignac, Auteur ; Christelle Plaza, Auteur ; Christophe Capallere, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Botto, Auteur ; Isabelle Imbert, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 214-223 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Cellules souches
Dermatologie
KératinocytesLes kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure.
L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) :
1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme)
2. stratum spinosum
3. stratum granulosum
4. stratum lucidum
5. stratum corneum
Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme.
Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis).
Particules fines
Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Peau -- Physiologie
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Air pollution is today fully acknowledged to be a significant public health problem. Rapid urbanization exposed us to a variety of unhealthy ambient air pollutants at high concentrations. The emergence of airborne ultrafine particles has added an additional dimension to this already complex problem of air pollution. The skin has different functions, one of them being the protection against the deleterious effect of external agents. The aim of this study is to evaluate the impact of airborne ultrafine particles (UFP) pollution on skin aging and on keratinocyte differentiation.
- Methods : Ex vivo human skin biopsies and cultured keratinocytes stem cells (KSC) were submitted to diesel exhaust-derived UFP. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was assessed with the MitoSOXâ„¢ probe. Keratinocyte stemness potential was evaluated by the immunodetection of keratin 15 (K15) and p63 (∆N isoforms). Effect of UFP on the epithelial niche maintenance was evaluated by immunodetection of Sox9. Reconstructed epidermis model was used to assess the impact of UFP on keratinocyte differentiation and aging.
- Results : UFP exposure induced ROS production and disturbed K15, ∆Np63 and Sox9 expression in KSC or ex vivo skin. Finally, investigations on reconstructed epidermis revealed a phenotype marked by impaired keratinocyte differentiation.
- Conclusion : These results indicate that UFP pollution is a potent extrinsic factor of skin aging, affecting the keratinocyte stem cell potential and the skin renewal process.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrafine particles - Antibodies - Cell culture - Keratinocyte stem cells isolation - Measurement of intracellular ROS with MitoSOXâ„¢ red probe - Immunocyto-fluorescence - Immunohistological fluorescence - Reconstructed skin epidermis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Detection of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) - Keratin 15 and ΔNp63 expression analyses in keratinocyte stem cells - Keratin 15 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies - Sox9 expression analyses in ex vivo skin biopsies and in keratinocyte stem cells - Human epidermal model reconstructionDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12833 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMen5efFuYiVSPhCW8m6z0NuewhUis-F/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39171
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 214-223[article]The impact of oxidative stress on hair / R. M. Trüeb in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, suppl. 2 (12/2015)
PermalinkThe role of oxidative damage in poor scalp health: ramifications to causality and associated hair growth / J. R. Schwartz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, suppl. 2 (12/2015)
PermalinkThe skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin : in vitro evaluation using reconstructed pigmented human epidermis in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 5 (10/2016)
PermalinkTranscriptional changes in organoculture of full-thickness human skin following topical application of all-trans retinoic acid / Johanna M. Gillbro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 3 (06/2014)
PermalinkYashada bhasma (zinc calx) and tankana (borax) inhibit propionibacterium acne and suppresses acne induced inflammation in vitro / R. Sandeep Varma in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 4 (08/2014)
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