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Five dimensions of cleansing : A holistic view on the facets and importance of skin cleansing / Jürgen Blaak in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 557-571 Titre : Five dimensions of cleansing : A holistic view on the facets and importance of skin cleansing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jürgen Blaak, Auteur ; Svenja Grabmann, Auteur ; Isabel Simon, Auteur ; Theresa M. Callaghan, Auteur ; Peter Staib, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 557-571 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aromachologie L'aromachologie est la science des phénomènes liés aux odeurs, plus particulièrement l'influence des odeurs sur le comportement. Bien que les vertus thérapeutiques des plantes soient connues depuis l'antiquité, l'arrivée en masse des huiles essentielles est relativement récente. Elles sont aussi bien utilisées pour le bien-être physique que mental. Holisme Holisme (du grec ancien hólos signifiant "entier") est un néologisme forgé en 1926 par l'homme d'État sud-africain Jan Christiaan Smuts pour son ouvrage Holism and Evolution. Selon son auteur, le holisme est "la tendance dans la nature à constituer des ensembles qui sont supérieurs à la somme de leurs parties, au travers de l'évolution créatrice1". Le holisme se définit donc globalement par la pensée qui tend à expliquer un phénomène comme étant un ensemble indivisible, la simple somme de ses parties ne suffisant pas à le définir. De ce fait, la pensée holiste se trouve en opposition avec la pensée réductionniste qui tend à expliquer un phénomène en le divisant en parties. (Wikipedia) Hygiène Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cleansing is an important human ritual practised for hygiene, well-being and relaxation over centuries. As part of body care it is often taken for granted, yet its relevance cannot be underestimated. Although cleansing the skin may seem trivial to some, it is accepted, that this fundamental function of skin cleansing products is highly complex, diverse and crucial for a variety of reasons in the personal, public, healthcare and dermatological settings. Employing a comprehensive and strategic approach in viewing cleansing and its rituals, supports innovation, understanding and development. Apart from being a fundamental function, as far as we know, there is no comprehensive presentation of skin cleansing with all its effects besides ‘removing dirt’. To our knowledge, comprehensive analyses on the multi-dimensional facets of skin cleansing are either rare or not published. Against this background, we examine the importance of cleansing in terms of function, relevance and concepts. First, the key functions and efficacies of skin cleansing were investigated by literature research. Based on this survey, the functions were analysed, sorted and merged and a novel approach to skin cleansing ‘dimensions’ was developed. Herewith, we took into consideration the evolution of skin cleansing in terms of concept evolution, complexity and testing methods for cleansing products and their claims. Several multi-dimensional functions of skin cleansing were identified and then established into five skin cleansing dimensions, namely: hygienic and medical importance; socio-cultural and interpersonal relevance; mood, emotion and well-being; cosmetic and aesthetic function; corneobiological interactions. It became obvious, that these five dimensions with their corresponding 11 sub-dimensions, are influenced by each other throughout history by culture and society, technical progress, scientific knowledge and consumer trends. This article presents the enormous complexity of skin cleansing. Skin cleansing has evolved from basic care up to a highly complex and diverse cosmetic product category in terms of technology, efficacy and usage routine(s). In view of future challenges, such as the effects of climate and associated lifestyle changes, the development of skin cleansing will remain an exciting and important topic and thus will finally, again, further increase the complexity of skin cleansing itself. Note de contenu : - Dimension 1: Hygienic and medical importance - Dimension 2: Socio-cultural and interpersonal relevance - Dimension 3: Mood, emotion and well-being - Dimension 4: Cosmetic and aesthetic function - Dimension 5: Corneobiological interactions - Table 1 : Overview of the five dimensions and corresponding sub-dimension of skin cleansing DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12879 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1glmxFYe908W2aBlYhVD-kw7sep-YDjFA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40077 [article]

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Clinical evaluation of paraprobiotic-associated bifidobacterium lactis CCT 7858 anti-dandruff shampoo efficacy : A randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial / Gabriel Fernandes Alves de Jesus in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 572-580 Titre : Clinical evaluation of paraprobiotic-associated bifidobacterium lactis CCT 7858 anti-dandruff shampoo efficacy : A randomized placebo-controlled clinical trial Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriel Fernandes Alves de Jesus, Auteur ; Marina Piola Rossetto, Auteur ; Ana Voytena, Auteur ; Bianca Feder, Auteur ; Heloisa Borges, Auteur ; Gabriel da Costa Borges, Auteur ; Zoé Paulina Feuser, Auteur ; Silvia Dal-Bó, Auteur ; Monique Michels, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 572-580 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Barrière cutanée Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Pellicules (dermatologie) Probiotiques shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The microbiome plays an important role in a wide variety of skin disorders. Hence, dysbiosis in the skin and/or gut microbiome is associated with an altered immune response, promoting the development of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne vulgaris and dandruff. Studies have shown that paraprobiotics may be promising for the treatment of skin disorders through microbiota modulation and immunomodulation. So, the objective is to develop an anti-dandruff formulation using a paraprobiotic (Neoimuno) as active ingredient. - Methods : Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was performed in patients who had any degree of dandruff. A total of 33 volunteers were recruited and randomly divided into two groups: placebo or treated. (1% Neoimuno). The ingredient used was Neoimuno (Bifidobacterium lactis strain CCT 7858). Combability analysis and perception questionnaire were applied before and after treatment. Statistical analyses were performed. - Results : No adverse effects were reported by patients throughout the study. Through the combability analysis, a significant decrease in the number of particles was verified after 28 days of shampoo use. Regarding perception, there was a significant difference for the cleaning variables and improvement of the general appearance 28 days after the intervention. There were no significant differences for the itching and scaling parameters, as well as the perception parameters at 14 days. - Discussion : Topical application of the paraprobiotic shampoo containing 1% Neoimuno was able to significantly improve the feeling of cleanliness and general aspects of dandruff, in addition to reducing scalp flakiness. Thus, with the results obtained through the clinical trial, Neoimuno presents itself as a natural, safe and effective ingredient in the treatment of dandruff. The efficacy of Neoimuno in dandruff was visible within 4 weeks. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ingredient origin - Ethics - Experimental design - Intervention - Dandruff degree - Combability analysis - Perception questionnaire - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Safety - Qualitative assessment - Quantitative assessment - Table 1 : Demographic and clinical variables - Table 2 : Perception of volunteers in relation to the use of shampoo during 14 and 28 days DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12850 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YxLU05sGnEqBOsziY77EIpPsrXPWEsDH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40078 [article]

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An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect / Huey Mei Wang Pamella in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 581-591 Titre : An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Huey Mei Wang Pamella, Auteur ; Mickael Agach, Auteur ; Majolie Libii, Auteur ; Stéphan Chonez, Auteur ; Sébastien Gregoire, Auteur ; Brittany Lee, Auteur ; Jean-Thierry Simonnet, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 581-591 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Chimie analytique Chimie écologique Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Stabilisants (chimie) Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy. - Methods : An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation. - Results : N,N’-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits. - Conclusion : Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA. Note de contenu : - Eco-design of formulations for reaching sustainable goals - New system for stabilizing retinol in formulations - Pentaerythritol 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate as alternative to BHT - Impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC combination on retinol - METHODS AND MATERIALS : Raw materials - SPOT analysis - Formulation protocol - Stability measurements - Absorption of retinol by skin - Clinical evaluation - RESULTS : Environmental impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - SPOT score of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Effects of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on retinol stability in formulations - Skin absorption of retinol+[S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Beneficial effects of retinol and [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmvNNWD2_D2eFvzoZ4-lDwII40w-nOaj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40079 [article]

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Impacts of sensory multimodality congruence and familiarity with short use on cosmetic product evaluation / Alice Bourdier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 592-603 Titre : Impacts of sensory multimodality congruence and familiarity with short use on cosmetic product evaluation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alice Bourdier, Auteur ; Anne Abriat, Auteur ; Tao Jiang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 592-603 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cosmétiques Emotions -- Mesure Odeurs Produits de beauté Toucher Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cross-modal association between sensory modalities is a natural phenomenon in the perception of our environment. For cosmetic evaluation, touch and smell are the two major sensory modalities involved in the whole product perception. In this study, we investigate whether a specific cosmetic texture is preferentially associated with a specific fragrance: congruence between texture and fragrance. In addition, we investigate whether 1-week use of a fragrance–texture congruent or non-congruent product can influence user's whole product appreciation and well-being. We have conducted a four-test experiment with 29 participants; first in the laboratory to evaluate: six fragrances and four textures individually with free description (test 1) ; the same stimuli with a description with cross-modal descriptors (test 2) ; 10 fragrance–texture combined products (test 3) ; and secondly at home, two fragrance–texture combined products: one congruent and one non-congruent (test 4). Results showed that: For a given texture type, specific olfactory notes are necessary to lead to a congruent cross-modal pairing product. Sensory modal congruent products produce the highest hedonic response. Real-life use or familiarisation with a product can influence not only the degree of cross-modal congruence but also overall cosmetic product appreciation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Participants - Materials - Procedure - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Test 1 : Free description - Test 2 : Description with cross-modal descriptors - Test 3 : Texture/fragrance combined products' evaluation - Test 4 : Home use evaluation - Table 1 : Formulated products (texture+fragrance) evaluated in the study - Table 2 : Lists of sensory descriptors - Table 3 : Wilcoxon signed-rank test between group 1 (cream/skin-gel) and group 2 (skin-balm/dry oil) on level of congruence DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12863 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdB81Cr5UikswVl-x_hnzcooqGsjNZ3G/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40080 [article]

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Modulation of Piezo1 influences human skin architecture and oxytocin expression / Florian Labarrade in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 604-611 Titre : Modulation of Piezo1 influences human skin architecture and oxytocin expression Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Florian Labarrade, Auteur ; Armelle Perrin, Auteur ; Yolene Ferreira, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Botto, Auteur ; Isabelle Imbert, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 604-611 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anticorps Barrière cutanée Cadhérine Dermatologie Mécanosensorialité Ocytocine Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Statistiques Toucher Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Throughout our existence, the skin senses and analyses the mechanical forces imposed by the environment. In response to these environmental forces, skin can deform itself and achieve a biological response. The subsequent cutaneous plasticity emerges from mechanical properties arising from the collective action of the skin cells, particularly keratinocytes, that govern the tensile strength via cell-to-cell adhesions and via cell–matrix adhesion structures. In addition to serving as force-bearing entities, keratinocytes respond to forces by activating signalling pathways to control their own fate and function. To detect and adapt to mechanical signals, keratinocytes possess a panel of sensory receptors and junctional intercellular structures. Mechanically activated ion channel Piezo1 has been described as a force sensor and as being involved in pleasant touch perception. In this study, relationships between Piezo1 modulation and oxytocin synthesis were investigated. - Methods : The expression of Piezo1 in the skin was studied and compared with the expression of TRPV1. Dooku1 antagonist and Jedi1 agonist were used to modulate Piezo1. The level of E-cadherin and oxytocin was monitored in ex vivo skin biopsies by immunodetection. - Results : Taken together, our results illustrate the major role of mechanosensitive ion channel Piezo1 in skin barrier integrity, and in peripheral oxytocin synthesis in the skin. - Conclusion : In conclusion, this study highlights the relationships between pleasant touch, soft touch and local oxytocin synthesis. Note de contenu : - Antibodies - Immunohistological fluorescent studies - Haematoxylin and eosin staining - Statistical analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12864 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rhjjp-MCVbwC2qcra5JkPYUYHd34CP92/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40081 [article]

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Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles / Jeerapond Leelawattanachai in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 612-626 Titre : Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jeerapond Leelawattanachai, Auteur ; Kedsara Panyasu, Auteur ; Kornkanok Prasertsom, Auteur ; Supone Manakasettharn, Auteur ; Hathaiphat Duangdaw, Auteur ; Pitchaon Budthong, Auteur ; Naranya Thepphornbanchakit, Auteur ; Kullachate Muangnapoh, Auteur ; Sira Srinives, Auteur ; Dujduan Waraho-Zhmayev, Auteur ; Darapond Triampo, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 612-626 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dissolution (chimie) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Micro-aiguilles Pénétration cutanée Polyéthylèneimine Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Tests de sécurité Vectorisation Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Ascorbic acid has many benefits to the skin. Numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery show great challenges since its chemical instability and poor skin impermeability. Microneedle delivery is a simple, safe, painless and effective means to deliver therapeutic or nourishing molecules into the skin. The purpose of this study was twofold : (a) to develop a new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles to enhance ascorbic acid stability by investigating an optimal amount of polyethyleneimine as an additive to the dextran-based microneedle formulation and (b) to assess microneedle properties in terms of dissolving rate, skin penetration ability, biocompatibility and antimicrobial activity. - Methods : The microneedles formulated with ascorbic acid and varied polyethyleneimine concentrations were fabricated and subsequently tested for ascorbic acid stability using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. The dissolution rate and skin penetration depth were investigated in porcine skin and the reconstructed human full-thickness skin model respectively. The skin irritation tests were done according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development Test Guideline No. 439. An antimicrobial disc susceptibility test was performed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. - Results : Among varied amounts of 0%, 1.5%, 3.0% and 4.5% (w/v), the 3.0% polyethyleneimine showed the most desirable characteristics, including well-preserved shape integrity after demoulding, significantly improved stability of ascorbic acid (p < 0.001) from 33% to 96% antioxidant activity after 8 weeks of storage at 40°C, increased dissolving rate (p < 0.001) by being completely dissolved within 2 min after the skin insertion, passing skin penetration and biocompatibility tests as well as having a broad spectrum of antimicrobial property. - Conclusion : With a safety profile and enhanced properties, the new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles shows outstanding potential as commercially available cosmetics and healthcare products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Fabrication and characterization of AA-loaded dissolving microneedles - Stability test of AA-loaded microneedle after storage at various conditions - Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) - Dissolution test of AA-loaded microneedles - In vitro skin permeation experiment with AA - Skin penetration experiment - Antimicrobial disc susceptibility test - Skin irritation test of AA-loaded microneedles - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Fabrication and characterization of AA-loaded microneedles - Stability test of AA-loaded microneedle after storage at various conditions - Dissolution test of AA-loaded microneedles - In vitro skin permeation experiment with AA - Skin penetration experiment - Antimicrobial disc susceptibility test - Skin irritation test of AA-loaded microneedles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12865 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A7uzPuS6f_fW_vYCVoxz74idDbVfUPQO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40088 [article]

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Water consumption by rinse-off cosmetic products : The case of the shower in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 627-635 Titre : Water consumption by rinse-off cosmetic products : The case of the shower Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 627-635 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Eau -- Consommation -- Réduction Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Gel douche Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This article measures and discusses the effects of different shower gels on the consumption of water used during a shower. - Methods : A sensory panel was created for quantifying water consumption associated with the use of shower gels. Fifteen French panellists were recruited (age: 59 ± 7, height: 163 cm ± 9 and weight: 68 kg ± 20) and trained to assess rinsed skin in a standardized way. Effective panellists were then asked to assess 25 shower gels covering the variety of existing products on the market. - Results : Results showed that the average volume was 4.77 L for heating the water and wetting the body and 4.15 L for rinsing the shower gel off the full body. We observed a significant shower gel effect (p < 0.0001) with the water volume needed to rinse the 25 shower gels ranging 3.21 L to 5.65 L. - Conclusion : This paper demonstrates the impact of shower gel formulation on water consumption during a shower. It thus demonstrates the importance of formulating shower gels to reduce the total amount of water needed to shower. It also introduces the distinction between ‘useful water’ which refers strictly to the volume of water objectively needed to rinse off a product and the ‘used water’ which refers to the total shower volume of water. This distinction helps to better strategize actions in order to reduce water consumption from rinse-off cosmetic products used during showers. Note de contenu : - Context of using shower gel - User - Rinse-off shower products - Table 1 : Typical shower gel composition DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12866 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jsUWEeHksK32L65-HXagbnfiAo6RrEng/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40089 [article]

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The effect of Salix alba L. bark extract on dark circles in vitro and in vivo / Suwon Jeon in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 636-646 Titre : The effect of Salix alba L. bark extract on dark circles in vitro and in vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Suwon Jeon, Auteur ; Sohyun Yoon, Auteur ; Yuna Kim, Auteur ; Seoungwoo Shin, Auteur ; Hyanggi Ji, Auteur ; Eunae Cho, Auteur ; Deokhoon Park, Auteur ; Eunsun Jung, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 636-646 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cernes Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ongle -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Dark circles in the infraorbital area are a common cosmetic concern among individuals because they exhibit fatigue and are undesirable across all ages. Of the dark circle etiologies, blood stasis by poor-vascular integrity can cause darkening of the lower eyelid skin, which might be alleviated by reduced endothelial permeability. In this study, we investigated the effects of Salix alba bark extract (SABE) on the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) in fibroblasts and vascular integrity protection from inflammatory cytokine. We also performed a clinical trial investigating the effect of SABE on dark circles. - Methods : To confirm the effect of SABE on HA synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), we performed ELISA and real-time PCR. We investigated the interaction HDF-secreted substance with vascular integrity, and human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMEC-1) were treated with conditioned medium (CM) from HDF treated with or without SABE. Subsequently, we conducted a clinical study on 29 subjects by having them apply SABE containing cream for 8 weeks. - Results : Salix alba bark extract treatment increased HA synthesis and regulated HMW–HA-related gene expressions in HDF. CM from SABE-treated HDF alleviated endothelial permeability and led to improved vascular integrity in HMEC-1 cells. Treatment with the cream containing 2% SABE for 8 weeks improved the parameters measuring dark circles, skin microcirculation and elasticity. - Conclusion : Our results showed that SABE could protect against dark circles in vitro, and that topical treatment of SABE improved the clinical indexes of dark circles in a clinical study. Therefore, SABE can be used as an active ingredient for improving dark circles. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of Salix alba bark extract (SABE) - Cell culture and reagent - Hyaluronic acid enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - RNA preparation and quantitative realtime PCR - Endothelial permeability assays - Preparation of cream - Clinical trial on dark circles - RESULTS : SABE increases HA synthesis and regulates HA-related genes in HDF - Conditioned medium produced by HDF reinforces vascular endothelial integrity in HMEC-1 - Effect of SABE on infraorbital dark circles in clinical trial - Table 1 : Formulation of test and placebo cream - Table 2 : Dark circles grade scale Référence de l'article : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12873 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1obc6x3Pt5lk3aseRPepM4h_TCBrfAukX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40090 [article]

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HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances–ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol : Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results / Gabriela de Argollo Marques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 647-654 Titre : HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances–ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol : Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriela de Argollo Marques, Auteur ; Camila Faustino Hiraishi, Auteur ; Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo, Auteur ; Claudineia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto, Auteur ; Joao Gregorio, Auteur ; Catarina Rosado, Auteur ; Maria Valéria Robles Velasco, Auteur ; André Rolim Baby, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 647-654 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Dermo-cosmétologie Différences d'âge Différences entre sexes Peau -- Physiologie Phototype (dermatologie) En dermatologie, le phototype permet de classer les individus selon la réaction de leur peau lors d'une exposition solaire. Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography–thiobarbituric acid reactive substances–ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. - Methods : The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde–thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. - Results : Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. - Conclusions : It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II. Note de contenu : - Legal and ethical concerns, and subjects' selection - Tape-stripping procedure and sample preparation - HPLC-TBARS-EVSC analytical protocol (chromatographic conditions) - Mathematical and statistical approach - Table 1 : Sex, age (years), phototype and area under the curve of the MDA-TBA2 adduct for the nonirradiated and the irradiated stratum corneum samples obtained from the subjects DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12874 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zpdg2oMsqdLWGRx9WTq-__me3DqJf3fk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40091 [article]

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Juniper berry extract containing Anthricin and Yatein suppresses lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes through proteasome activation, increases brightness and decreases spots in human skin / Kotaro Sakamoto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 655-671 Titre : Juniper berry extract containing Anthricin and Yatein suppresses lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes through proteasome activation, increases brightness and decreases spots in human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kotaro Sakamoto, Auteur ; Runa Fujimoto, Auteur ; Satoshi Nakagawa, Auteur ; Erina Kamiyama, Auteur ; Kyoko Kanai, Auteur ; Yuka Kawai, Auteur ; Hiroyuki Kojima, Auteur ; Asuka Hirasawa, Auteur ; Kanae Wakamatsu, Auteur ; Teruaki Masutani, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 655-671 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Chimie analytique Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Genièvre et constituants Lipofuscine La lipofuscine est un pigment cellulaire brun composé de débris de molécules. Elle apparait dans les cellules épithéliales et conjonctives en voie de sénescence ou de dégénération. Il est probable que la lipofuscine ne soit pas seulement une conséquence du vieillissement mais qu'elle y contribue. Les neurones, le cÅ“ur et la peau des personnes âgées contiennent des quantités particulièrement importantes de lipofuscine. On en trouve aussi dans la sueur chez des personnes qui présentent une chromhydrose. Ce pigment intervient également dans la coloration de l'iris de certains yeux verts. Certaines études montrent que l'utilisation du Diméthylaminoéthanol (DMAE) pourrait réduire la production de lipofuscine. - Biologie : La lipofuscine vient du vieillissement des lysosomes contenus dans toutes les cellules. Quand les lysosomes sont âgés, ils ne peuvent plus se dégrader eux-mêmes car ils ont perdu leur activité enzymatique. Ils deviennent alors des corps résiduels qui vont persister très longtemps dans la cellule, formant un dépôt de lipofuscine. Au niveau neuronal, la quantité de ces dépôts de lipofuscine est proportionnelle à l'âge du neurone. Ceci s'explique par le fait que les cellules nerveuses ne sont pas renouvelées et que ces corps résiduels ne sont pas dégradés ou évacués. - Symptôme : Apparition de taches brunes à la surface de la peau, appelées aussi taches de vieillesse, dues à la présence de dépôts de lipofuscine émanant de ces corps résiduels lysosomiaux dans les cellules cutanées, le plus souvent d'une peau âgée ou trop exposée aux rayons du soleil. (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Protéasome Les protéasomes sont des complexes enzymatiques multiprotéiques que l'on retrouve chez les eucaryotes, les archées ainsi que chez quelques bactéries de l'ordre Actinomycetales. Dans les cellules eucaryotes, ils se trouvent dans le noyau, le cytosol et associés au réticulum endoplasmique. Leur fonction principale est de dégrader les protéines mal repliées, dénaturées ou obsolètes de manière ciblée. Cette dégradation se fait par protéolyse, une réaction chimique qui coupe les liaisons peptiques et qui est effectuée par des enzymes appelées protéases. La protéine est ainsi découpée en peptides longs de 7 à 9 acides aminés qui seront ensuite hydrolysés hors du protéasome et recyclés. Les protéines sont marquées pour la dégradation par une protéine appelée ubiquitine. Ce marquage est réalisé par l'action coordonnée de trois types d'enzymes. Une fois le marquage par une première molécule d'ubiquitine réalisé, d'autres ubiquitines vont être rajoutées à sa suite. Il faudra une chaîne d'au moins quatre ubiquitines pour que le protéasome 26S reconnaisse la protéine à dégrader. Il existe un compartiment pour celui-ci. Le protéasome a une forme de baril et possède une cavité en son centre cernée par quatre anneaux, fournissant ainsi un espace clos pour la digestion des protéines. Chaque anneau est composé de sept protéines : les deux anneaux intérieurs sont constitués de sept sous-unités β qui contiennent le site actif de la protéase, tandis que les deux anneaux extérieurs contiennent sept sous-unités α dont le rôle consiste à maintenir l'ouverture par laquelle les protéines à dégrader pénètrent dans le baril: ces sous-unités α sont capables de reconnaître les marqueurs de polyubiquitine qui régulent le processus de dégradation. L'ensemble est connu sous le terme de complexe protéasome-ubiquitine. Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin brightness and spot have a significant impact on youthful and beautiful appearance. One important factor influencing skin brightness is the amount of internal reflected light from the skin. Observers recognize the total surface-reflected light and internal reflected light as skin brightness. The more internal reflected light from the skin, the more attractive and brighter the skin appears. This study aims to identify a new natural cosmetic ingredient that increases the skin's internal reflected light, decreases spot and provides a youthful and beautiful skin appearance. - Methods : Lipofuscin in epidermal keratinocytes, the aggregating complex of denatured proteins and peroxidized lipids, is one factor that decreases skin brightness and causes of spot. Aggregates block light transmission, and peroxidized lipids lead to skin yellowness, dullness and age spot. Lipofuscin is known to accumulate intracellularly with ageing. Rapid removal of intracellular denatured proteins prevents lipofuscin formation and accumulation in cells. We focused a proteasome system that efficiently removes intracellular denatured proteins. To identify natural ingredients that increase proteasome activity, we screened 380 extracts derived from natural products. The extract with the desired activity was fractionated and purified to identify active compounds that lead to proteasome activation. Finally, the efficacy of the proteasome-activating extract was evaluated in a human clinical study. - Results : We discovered that Juniperus communis fruits (Juniper berry) extract (JBE) increases proteasome activity and suppresses lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes. We found Anthricin and Yatein, which belong to the lignan family, to be major active compounds responsible for the proteasome-activating effect of JBE. In a human clinical study, an emulsion containing 1% JBE was applied to half of the face twice daily for 4 weeks, resulting in increased internal reflected light, brightness improvement (L-value) and reduction in yellowness (b-value) and spot in the cheek area. - Conclusion : This is the first report demonstrating that JBE containing Anthricin and Yatein decreases lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes through proteasome activation, increases brightness and decreases surface spots in human skin. JBE would be an ideal natural cosmetic ingredient for creating a more youthful and beautiful skin appearance with greater brightness and less spot. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12876 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s5TmKJZ3eBrvYnjdG5HeCDwcJu3l8k6j/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40092 [article]

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Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 672-687 Titre : Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Romain Biassin, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Todd K. Shackelford, Auteur ; Bernhard Fink, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 672-687 Note générale : Bibliogr. ERRATA in Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024), p. 478 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Femmes Groupe ethnique Peau -- Perception visuelle Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Research indicates the impact of skin colour, tone evenness and surface topography on ratings of age, health and attractiveness in women. In addition to subjective assessments, these effects have been quantified with objective measures derived from skin image analysis. Signs of skin ageing may manifest differently across ethnic groups. However, comparisons have been limited to research with two ethnic groups, preventing conclusions about an ethnicity-specific ranking of skin ageing signs. - Methods : We report results from a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study in which faces of women (n = 180; aged 20–69 years) from five ethnic groups were imaged. Facial images were rated for age, health and attractiveness by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkling/sagging. We assessed associations between face ratings and skin image measurements in the total sample (i.e. all ethnic groups) and separately by ethnicity. - Results : Skin image analysis revealed differences between ethnic groups, including skin colour, gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Differences in the relative predictive utility of individual skin features in accounting for ratings of age, health and attractiveness also were observed between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of face ratings in each ethnic group, with some differences in the type (or predictive magnitude) of skin features. - Conclusion : The current findings corroborate previous reports of differences between ethnic groups in female facial skin and indicate differential effects of skin features on ratings of age, health and attractiveness, within and between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of age and attractiveness ratings, and skin tone evenness and gloss had an additional role in ratings of health. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study sample - Facial imaging - Face rating - Skin image measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Comparison of ethnic groups - Associations between health ratings and technical measures DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12877 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z9yks1Tof-E0limHvZCB8PZERlzLLaEm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40093 [article]

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In vitro, ex vivo and clinical approaches to evaluate the potential effect of Gentiana lutea extract on skin / Jean-Yves Berthon in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 688-698 Titre : In vitro, ex vivo and clinical approaches to evaluate the potential effect of Gentiana lutea extract on skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Magalie Cabannes, Auteur ; Carine Bouton, Auteur ; Maude Carre, Auteur ; Emilie Bridon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 688-698 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Gentiane jaune et constituants La gentiane jaune (Gentiana lutea), encore appelée grande gentiane, est une espèce de plantes de la famille des Gentianaceae, originaire d'Europe méridionale et d'Asie mineure, présente notamment dans divers massifs montagneux européens, dont les Alpes, le Massif central, le Jura, les Pyrénées et les Vosges. Elle a toutefois été observée en 2013 dans les hautes Ardennes belges1. La gentiane jaune est aussi appelée gentiane officinale, jouvansanne, quinquina d'Europe, quinquina des pauvres, lève-toi-et-marche, jansonna, bananier des Alpes et quinquina indigène. On considère que cette plante fait partie de la flore obsidionale de France. - Description : Grande herbe robuste et vivace, elle peut vivre 50 ans et met 10 ans pour fleurir la première fois. Les feuilles sont opposées et nervurées. Elles sont pétiolées à la base et sessiles embrassantes sur la tige. Les grandes fleurs jaunes sont serrées à la base des feuilles supérieures. La corolle est divisée en 5 à 9 lobes presque jusqu'à la base. Elle est parfois confondue avec le vérâtre blanc (ou hellébore blanc), qui est violemment toxique, mais dont les fleurs sont blanches et les feuilles alternées, alors que les fleurs de la gentiane sont jaunes et les feuilles opposées. - Usages : Le rhizome et les racines sont utilisés en phytothérapie comme le laissent supposer ses nombreux noms vernaculaires. Mais la gentiane est surtout utilisée dans des apéritifs comme la liqueur de gentiane (Suze, Salers, Avèze, etc.) ou l'alcool de gentiane, Bière de Fleurac7, et le Picon, auxquels elle apporte son amertume. Ce sont près de 1 000 à 1 500 tonnes qui sont utilisées chaque année pour satisfaire les besoins de l'artisanat et l'industrie. En volume, la gentiane est une des trois premières plantes médicinales et aromatiques utilisées en France et ses applications sont nombreuses (pharmacie et médecine humaine et vétérinaire, boissons et spiritueux, cosmétique, fabrication d'arômes et d'extraits, gastronomie…). (Wikipedia) Gentiopicroside Principe amer de nature glucosidique contenu dans la racine de gentiane. Glycation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Dark circles affect subjects of all ages and in all skin types. They can be treated by various methods, particular by topical solutions. This investigation was directed towards exploring the effect of gentiopicroside (GP) on the skin around the eyes. For this, an extract of Gentiana lutea (GIE) containing GP (65% by dry matter) was evaluated on oxidant and angiogenesis parameters using in vitro and ex-vivo studies. A clinical experimentation was also realized. - Methods : The effect of GIE at different concentrations on antioxidant gene was evaluated in vitro by RT-qPCR after treatment of NHDF. The effect of 2.93 μg mL−1 GIE on the release of VEGF-A and VEGF-C by NHDF was also studied. The effect of 87.9 μg mL−1 GIE was also evaluated on pseudotube formation in a coculture system of normal dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMVEC-d)-NHDF stimulated or not with VEGF as pro-angiogenic factor. Prior to these assays, preliminary cytotoxicity assays were performed using a standard WST-8 reduction assay. The expressions of carboxymethyl-lysine and glyoxalase-1 were quantified on skin explants topically treated with 147 μg mL−1 GIE in basal and UVA-irradiated conditions. A clinical study was conducted in 22 subjects using topical twice daily for 14 days on eye area (split-face application: cream containing 147 μg mL−1 GIE versus placebo). 3D image acquisition and skin colour measurement were performed at D0 and D14. - Results : Treatment of GIE upregulated the gene expression of NFE2L2 and downregulated the expression of CXCL8. GIE targeted AGEs pathways and reduced the formation of pseudotubes. A total of 147 μg mL−1 GIE gel cream significantly reduced significantly the average roughness and relief of the upper eyelid skin as well as the redness of dark circles after 14 days of application. - Conclusion : By acting on the pathway of AGEs, VEGF-A and VEFG-C, GIE seems to allow a rejuvenation of the skin resulting, among others, in a decrease in redness. It now would be interesting to evaluate the efficacy of GIE on skin around eyes microbiota, antibacterial gentiopicroside property being well-established. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : GIE extract - In vitro evaluation - Ex vivo evaluation - Clinical evaluation - Sujbects - Test formulations - Statistical analysis - RESULTS - In vitro data - Ex vivo evaluation - Clinical data DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12878 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12E5zbxjP4Z2_8ICoWs4DmK6kkQ16gSYW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40094 [article]

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