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High performance mineral builders for sustainable powder detergent / Sophie Mouzon in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 4-10 Titre : High performance mineral builders for sustainable powder detergent Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Mouzon, Auteur ; Julian Ferrary, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 4-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés inorganiques Détergents -- Additifs Essais (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although the consumer trends or the phosphate ban present real challenges for the formulation of premium laundry or automatic dishwashing detergents, the market offers sustainable and efficient alternatives. Seqens mineral builders (under trade name: Nabionâ„¢) enable the design of powder detergents matching the performances of past STPP based products. Thanks to their high capacity of calcium uptake, Seqens mineral builders prevent from mineral deposit during the washing. The performances of the builders were investigated in automatic dishwashing applications with the IKW test methods. The results indicate a high decrease of the spotting and filming on glassware. As alkalinity providers, Seqens mineral builders play a key function to remove stains and soils, while leading to a very low level of glass corrosion or colour fading, which was demonstrated with a test on standard AISE colour fabrics. Seqens mineral builder have an excellent sustainability and safety profile. As minerals, they are safe for the environment and fauna with no bioaccumulation. Thanks to their labelling, they are registered in the Ecocert database for detergents and can be used in several applications under ecolabels such as the EU Flower or the Nordic Swan. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : European context in laundry an automatic dishwashing detergents - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Automatic dishwashing test-filming and spotting - Spotting - Filming - Laundry test-colour fading - Formulations - RESULTS : What are the main benefits of seqens mineral builders ? - Fig. 1 : Position of dishes, glasses, plates in the dishwasher - Fig. 2 : Filming evaluation - abacus, score from 10 to 0 - Fig. 3 : Evaluation of spotting and filming after 10 washing cycles - Fig. 4 : L a b measurement of color fabrics (AISE 16, 24, 3 and 8) before and after 20 washing cycles - Table 1 : Spotting evaluation - Table 2 : Automatic dishwashing formulations - Table 3 : Laundry formulation - Table 4 : Typical cations removal capacity of builders (at 20°C) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m2rtqEuj2us0Q6EtK6k8oVk1F3hO9Lyr/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33227 [article]

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A tailor-made approach to grant wishes / Stefanie Wehler in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 12-16 Titre : A tailor-made approach to grant wishes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefanie Wehler, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 12-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coût -- Contrôle Détergents Développement durable Emballages Formulation (Génie chimique) Ligands Polymères Produits nettoyants Savon Surfactants Transport Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The term "sustainability" already exists for a long time, but only now the consumer’s demand for sustainable concepts and products is strongly rising. Detergents and cleaning agents are one of many involved product groups. However, since other requirements as cleaning performance and price must also be met, a sustainable cleaner is not simply the result of using natural raw materials. The overall package must match. At our 125th anniversary, we from Zschimmer & Schwarz not only look back on many years of experience, but are also committed to a sustainable future. As a manufacturer of specialties regarding surfactants, complexing agents and polymers, we offer support and ideas to fulfil a wide range of consumer wishes – in other words: a tailor-made approach to grant wishes. Note de contenu : - A long wish list - Concentrates help saving packaging and transport costs - Problems can be solved by the optimal combination of raw materials - Focus : Natural base with additional benefits - Concentrates must be dosed correctly - otherwise there will be problems - Soap as a sustainable cleaning surfactant - Wishes granted ? - Fig. 1 : Left: 65% fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 8 EO in water; Right: 65% fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 8 EO in water + 6.5% ZETESECO HS 100 - Fig. 2 : ZETESECO SC 100 as opacifier. Left: base formulation (8% ZETESECO SC 100 + 0.5% soda + 91.5% tap water). Right: base formulation + 0.3% xantham gum. After 2 weeks storage time. - Table 1 : Top 5 claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l267PFVHFsRlPMc9hEiZoBDEmv1RTRuh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33228 [article]

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Enhancing specialty surfactants bio-based content without sacrificing performances - Narrow range ethoxylates / Stuart Holt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 18-26 Titre : Enhancing specialty surfactants bio-based content without sacrificing performances - Narrow range ethoxylates Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stuart Holt, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 18-26 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Biosurfactants Composés organiques -- Synthèse Consommateurs -- Préférences Ethoxylate d'alcool Etudes comparatives Produits nettoyants Surfactants -- Aspect de l'environnement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The consumer attitude toward household cleaning products is changing. No longer are cost and performance the only considerations. The consumer is increasingly aware that they need to make careful selection of products, tending towards selection of natural, preferably vegetable-based ingredients that are sustainably sourced and which are mild in the environment once released post-use. In this paper we will explore an example of how it is possible to increase the bio-based content of a class of specialty surfactants – narrow range ethoxylates, which have historically been of synthetic origin. By switching to a natural, vegetable-based hydrophobe, sourced via a sustainable supply chain (RSPO), we can better meet customer expectation, and will demonstrate that the same high performance of the cleaning ingredient can be fully maintained. In so doing, we provide formulators the option to develop more bio-based, high-performance cleaning formulations, with ingredients that also qualify as EU Ecolabel. Note de contenu : - Consumer drive for more sustainable cleaning - Supported by third party certifiers - Non-detergent specialty alcohol ethoxylates - Historically from synthetic sources - Narrow range ethoxylation - Providing consumer and formulator advantage - Introducing NRE's with natural hydrophobes - RSPO-certified - Comparison of synthetic vs.Natural NRE's - life-for-like performance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ytaOSK1ecOvNu5MJojmoRlyMSOQNWMG-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33229 [article]

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Surfactants and emulsifiers from renewable raw materials / Damien Hardouin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 28-34 Titre : Surfactants and emulsifiers from renewable raw materials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Damien Hardouin, Auteur ; B. Estrine, Auteur ; Tobias Hollmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 28-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Biomatériaux Développement durable Evaluation Ressources renouvelables Surfactants Toxicologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Wheatoleo is a producer of sustainable surfactants derived from renewable resources, mainly from European origin at its biorefinery plant located in Pomacle (Champagne), France. An overview of the complete range of green surfactants is presented and the APPYCLEAN technology is introduced. These products display the required level of foaming, wetting, dispersing, emulsifying, degreasing and cleaning characteristics maintaining a low risk and hazard profile in final formulations. Examples of different homecare and I&I formulations with Appyclean, Appyclean Special and Functional shows that an optimal cost/performance ratio and low toxicological and environmental risk can be achieved by applying green and sustainable principles of product development and production. Note de contenu : - INNOVATIVE ROUTE FOR LOW COST NEW ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDES : Route for Alkyl Polypentosides, Glycosylation of Pentoses and Glucose/Pentoses Mixtures - EXAMPLES OF APPLICATIONS : Physical and Chemical Properties, Highly Effective Cleaners, New Hydrotropes - TOXICOLOGY - ECOLOGICAL EVALUATION OF ALKYL POLYPENTOSIDES : Biodegration Data, Ecological Profile - Table 1 : Emulsifying properties of hexadecyl/octadecyl xylosides compositions (APPLYCLEAN 6669) compared with fatty alcohols polyethoxylated GALENOL 16-18 AE (Emulsifying power is the quantity of emulsifier required to obtain stable emulsion) - Table 2 : Scores and classifications obtained by ocular irritation methods for glucose and xylose based APG En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x6py55RG6dDHv936a7ZKJkBivvx4-e3y/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33232 [article]

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First generation of biomimetic plant membrane lipids to fight energetic ageing / Oscar Expósito in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 44-52 Titre : First generation of biomimetic plant membrane lipids to fight energetic ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; Mireia Perez, Auteur ; Ana Gallego ; Tarik Ruiz ; Maria Mas ; Pau Riera ; Daniel Luna ; Sara Laplana Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 44-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Chimie biomimétique Lipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : During ageing, as well as under stress situations, the cellular energy of the skin, and its vitality, decrease, causing what it is known as energetic ageing. The new active Olea VitaePLF (INCI name: Olea Europaea (Olive) Callus Culture Lysate) made from plant stem cells of wild olive tree sprouts, achieves the activation of the energetic rejuvenation cycles, through a new mechanism of action: the stimulation of Mitochondrial Synapses. This active represents the first generation of biomimetic plant cell membrane lipids: the Phyto-Lipidic Fractions (PLF), with a unique lipidic composition, that stimulates the communication between mitochondria, to boost the energy and vitality levels of the epidermal cells, increasing the production of structural proteins to obtain a clear anti-wrinkle, firming and repairing effect. Several in vitro and in vivo studies were performed to support these claims. Note de contenu : - Energetic ageing and epidermal cells - Mitochondrial synapses - Phyto-lipidic fractions - What is a cellular oil ? - Olea vitae : The first cellular oil - In vitro efficacy : Gene Expression-Quantitative RT-PCR - ACP: Acyl Carrier Protein: Key Enzyme in the Alternative Pathway of Synthesis of Mitochondrial Signaling Lipids - MFN2 : Mitofusin 2-Key Protein in Mitochondrial Fusion - 1.3 COL3A1-Codifying Gene of Type III Collagen - Density and mitochondrial fusion - In vivo efficacy - Fig. 1 : Mitochondrial synapses : balanced cycles regulate the cellular energetic status - Fig. 2 : Phyto-lipidic fractions, the first cellular oil : innovative cell membrane disruption process to release the lipid rafts - Fig. 3 : Plant oil vs cellular oil - Fig. 4 : Olea vitae recharges the skin's internal batteries - Fig. 5 : Gene expression of ACP, MFN2 genes linked to the production of energy and mitochondrial fusion - Fig. 6 : Gene expression of COL3A1 - Fig. 7 : Density and mitochondrial fusion - Fig. 8 : Trans-Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL - Fig. 9 : Skin firmness and elasticity - Fig. 10 : Skin thickness - Fig. 11 : Clinical evaluation of wrinkles En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1geKhovqnyR11rPn7R2LpESzA-j7B-Z9X/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33233 [article]

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Alcohol-free solutions for personal care product preservation / Karen Winkowski in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 54-58 Titre : Alcohol-free solutions for personal care product preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karen Winkowski, Auteur ; Andrea Wingenfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 54-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Conservation Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Preservatives are key ingredients in personal care products to protect consumers from infections and to prevent microbial spoilage of the product. The pallet of preservatives for formulators to choose from is rapidly decreasing. Taking advantage of innovative antimicrobial delivery systems, we have developed preservative solutions based on nature identical active ingredients that provide excellent antimicrobial protection while keeping the level of the actives as low as possible. Note de contenu : - Performance Data - Table 1 : Ashland alcohol free preservation technologies, based on nature identical active ingredients. - Table 2 : Crème emulsion (formula #NE1C-S) - Table 3 : Super pearly sulfate free low surfactant shampoo (#Z-327-23). - Table 4 : Mild clear conditioning shampoo (#MM LB 4/52). En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1185bLttek49wbi90vz80vWA0zzDgzTpa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33234 [article]

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Natural skin barrier supplement to resist artificial radiation / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 36-42 Titre : Natural skin barrier supplement to resist artificial radiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Caroténoides Les caroténoïdes sont des pigments plutôt orange et jaune répandus chez de très nombreux organismes vivants. Liposolubles, ils sont en général facilement assimilables par les organismes. Ils appartiennent à la famille chimiques des terpénoïdes, formés à partir de la polymérisation d'unités isoprènes à structure aliphatique ou alicyclique. Il est généralement admis qu'ils suivent des voies métaboliques similaires à celles des lipides. Ils sont synthétisés par toutes les algues, toutes les plantes vertes et par de nombreux champignons et bactéries (dont les cyanobactéries). Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Rayonnement électronique Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Artificial radiation is all around us. This refers not only to high energy visible light emitted by all kinds of screens but also WiFi radiation of smart devices. As we cannot escape from it and the consequences for our skin are still poorly investigated, protective measures can be taken in advance. Here we describe the use of an alga extract enriched in carotenoids capable of keeping the radiation threats away from our skin. The extract reduces WiFi and blue light-induced ROS generation and prevents overly carotenoid loss of the skin barrier leading to significant reduction in ageing parameters. Note de contenu : - Blue light protection - WiFi irradiation - Epidermal strengthening - In vivo studies - Carotenoid loss - Assessment of standard skin parameters - Statistics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dUj_xJ3_TOicCSW3Qh1d_PRWhIHLPZSU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33302 [article]

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New hair care polymer uniquely combines volume and care benefits / Mélanie Waeckel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 60-65 Titre : New hair care polymer uniquely combines volume and care benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mélanie Waeckel, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 60-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Polymères Polyquaternium shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustained, targeted research by the DSM Materials Science centre and DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients led to the creation of a novel hyper-branched polymer, Polyquaternium-110 (INCI). This hair care polymer has demonstrated outstanding volume boost combined with excellent care benefits. Moreover, it can be added easily to existing shampoo formulations. A structural transformation during hair drying enables the dual benefits. The mechanism of deposition of the polymer, via coacervate formation, gives rise to lamellar structures that provide lubricant effects for excellent wet combing. On drying these lamellar structures transform into hexagonal structures which provide the volume boost many consumers desire. The claimed benefits have been substantiated by instrumental tests and confirmed by hairdresser assessments. Note de contenu : - Technology transfer enabled targeted search - Coacervate technology ensures the polymer deposition - Dual benefits delivered through structural transformation - Volume performance tests confirm visible increase in volume without compromising on care properties - The hair dresser commented - Polyquaternium-110 can be easily added to existing shampoo formulations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pDX8pf-VyfZI4XDCqneMPy8FdM5WrRcs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33303 [article]

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Cosmetic claims : Practical hints - recommendations for dealing with cosmetic claims / Sheida Hönlinger in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019) . - p. 66-73 Titre : Cosmetic claims : Practical hints - recommendations for dealing with cosmetic claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sheida Hönlinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 66-73 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allégations (droit) Une allégation est l’affirmation d'un fait par une partie dans une plaidoirie, que la partie prétend pouvoir prouver. Les allégations restent des affirmations sans la preuve, jusqu'à ce qu'elles puissent être prouvées.(Wikipedia) Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Industrie cosmétique -- Législation Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Advertising statements in the cosmetics sector are used to inform the final consumer about properties and qualitative characteristics of cosmetic products. They are essential instruments for distinguishing between products ; they stimulate innovation and promote competition. To assure that advertising statements of cosmetic products fulfil their purpose adequately, they must be fair and they must not mislead consumers. The legal framework for Germany and Austria is outlined in this publication of the GÖCH Working Group "Cosmetic Claims". Examples of efficacy tests and associated claims for skin and hair products are presented. Particular attention is paid to critical advertising of the absence of animal testing, of the non-use of preservatives, as well as "allergy-free", "hypoallergenic", "sensitive" and "free from...." claims. Some non-compliant examples are presented as cardinal errors. This document is particularly meant to help small and medium-sized enterprises. Note de contenu : - Objective of this recommendation - Examples of proofs of efficacy and possible claims - Critical claims : Advertising statement : "Free from animal testing - Advertising statement "free from preservatives" - Advertising statements : "allergy-free" and "hypoallergenic" - Advertising statements : "sensitive" and synonymous claims - Advertising statements "free from..." - "Cardinol errors" - Table 1 : Efficacy tests : skin - Table 2 : Efficacy tests : hair - Table 3 : "Cardinal errors" - some practical examples not in conformity with the law (not exhaustive) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12miG6OG_nfPmbFILtQbgWZzGKoJ55c9u/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33304 [article]

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