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The safety assessment of cosmetic products / Helena Eixarch in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 13-16 Titre : The safety assessment of cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Helena Eixarch, Auteur ; David Andrew, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 13-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Evaluation Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Ingrédients cosmétiques Microbiologie Produits chimiques -- Sécurité Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Article 3 of EU Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products ('the Regulation') states that : "a cosmetic product made available on the market shall be safe for human health when used under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use". As stated in Article 10 of the Regulation, in order to ensure compliance with Article 3, the Responsible Person (RP) must, before placing the product on the market, ensure that it has "undergone a safety assessment on the basis of the relevant information and that a cosmetic product safety report is set up in accordance with Annex I". Note de contenu : - THE COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) - PART A : General information on the cosmetic product (composition and specifications) - Stability of the cosmetic product - Microbiological quality - Impurities and traces - Normal and reasonably foreseeable use of the product - Exposure to the cosmetic and the substances - Toxicological profile of the substances - Undesirable effects, serious undesirable effects and other information on the product - THE COSMETIC PRODUCT SAFETY REPORT (CPSR) - PART B : Assessor's credentials En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SHtyQpLyvdGHSMosFKrmprPTW4OUC6ur/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30441 [article]

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Eco-friendly glitter tackles pollution / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 24-25 Titre : Eco-friendly glitter tackles pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Intervieweur ; Stephen Cotton, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 24-25 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Environnement -- Protection Paillettes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Launched by cosmetic glitter supplier Ronald Britton, the new Bioglitter brand is the first legally compliant, naturally degradable glitter, to hit the market. It will give new options to formulators of glitter cosmetics, offering an eco-friendly product that will help tackle the problems of microplastic pollution in the environnent. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OlZN5dIOQrVuhBBFtAfMZsSUMTEFGVLt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30442 [article]

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Formulating and considering intellectual property / Gint Silins in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 31-34 Titre : Formulating and considering intellectual property Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gint Silins, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 31-34 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Législation Propriété intellectuelle (droit international) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Bringing to market an exciting and unique cosmetic formulation is the dream of many entrepreneurs and in many instances the assistance of an expert formulator and/or manufacturer (hereafter simply referred to as a 'manufacturer') will be required. Although experience and track record are obvious things to consider when selecting a formulator, there are less obvious things to consider as well. Some of those less obvious things have to do with intellectual property (IP). Note de contenu : - DISCUSSION : FORMULATIONS : What is the scope of the service - Who will own the recipe, formulation and process of manufacture that is developed ? - Is the developed IP or some aspect thereof to be kept confidential by either the entrepreneur or manufacturer ? - Does the manufacturer warrant, to its best knowledga and belief, that it is not using the confidential information of a previous customer to provide service to the entrepreneur ? - Does the manufacturer warrant that any confidential information of the entrepreneur or in connection with the developed IP will not be used by the manufacturer in the provision of services to other customers ? - Does the manufacturer warrant that the developed IP will not be used commercially by the manufacturer nor provided to another customer ? - Does the manufacturer warrant to the entrepreneur that, to its best knowledga and belief, there is no obstacle to using IP commercially in any region ? - Is the developed IP to be protected by way of a patent ? - Does the manufacturer agree to assist the entrepreneur in obtaining protectionfor any developed IP, should it choose to (or vice versa) ? - If the manufacturer or entrepreneur is used for infringement of third party IP rights, who is to take defensive action and pay legal costs ? - CONCLUSION : FORMULATIONS - BRANDING AND PACKAGING : Discussion - Who will own the branding and/or packaging that is developed ? - Does the consultant warrant that the developed IP will not be used commercially by the consultant nor provided to another customer ? - Does the consultant warrant to the entrepreneur that, to its best knowledge and belief, there is no obstacle to using the IP commercially either in the country of origin (or elsewhere) ? - Is the developed IP to be protected by way of a trade mark registration, design registration or patent ? - Does the consultant agree to assist the entrepreneur in obtaining protection for any developed IP, should it choose to (or vice versa) ? - If the consultant or entrepreneur is sued for infringement of third party IP rights, who is to take defensive action and pay legal costs ? - CONCLUSION : BRANDING AND PACKAGING En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N8iPoS-TPQCJENk2cGrOohvgPdyTwmYr/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30443 [article]

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Keeping pace with changing lifestyle trends / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Keeping pace with changing lifestyle trends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Style de vie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Humans are tribal, and as such have a tendency to align themselves to a set of ideals and connect with other similarly-minded people. As part of a tribe, people will seek to ensure as many aspects of their life conform to their particular ideals, shaping the world around them. Clothes, food, energy consumption, transport, and of course consumer products, are all choices and there are options to suit different lifestyle choices, backed up by an ever¬increasing array of accreditation bodies. In addition to the morality choices people are making, consumer product manufacturers need to consider the practical changes in the ways people are living their lives. There have been substantial changes in recent years both to the way people interact with their peers as well as the structure of families. Although these things happen gradually, they have an enormous impact and affect all aspects of life. Here we will look at some of the key lifestyle themes we believe will have an effect on the types of personal products people will want to use. Note de contenu : Family life and later parenthood : The dad should not be forgotten - Social media - City life - Active beauty - Gender fluidity - Vegan - Clean living En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WjgD2TExsKWS7D78HSsupiaP3fWx7wa9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30444 [article]

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Beauty for everyone : where we are and where next ? / Kira Drabble in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 42-43 Titre : Beauty for everyone : where we are and where next ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kira Drabble, Auteur ; Matthew Anderson, Auteur ; Karen Ryan, Auteur ; Emily McCann, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 42-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques Différences entre sexes (psychologie) Style de vie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over the past few years, the awareness of gender and its increasing non-correlation with the sexes has soared. Generation-Z has driven us towards the belief that gender is in fast a spectrum made up of behavioural, psychological and cultural traits. It is different from person to person and for some people it is different day to day. Gender is no longer considered binary, in fact Facebook has over 70 gender options to pick from on their profile editor. To learn more about these definitions, visit www.stonewall.org.uldhelp-advice/glossary-terms. This article will discuss gender non-conformity and gender fluidity, summarising the key influences on the shift and blurring of gender norms and the impact this has on the personal care industry. Traditional gender norms mean that men and women would shop on different aisles for personal care products. Men would predominantly purchase just a few functional items such as deodorant, shower gel and shaving products, whereas women tend to have a more complex beauty routine including colour cosmetics, moisturisers and hair colourants. However, over the past few years, we have seen a shift in purchasing habits. Note de contenu : - Gender fluidity - Here come 'The beauty boys' - Current market situation - A new sparkle - Also at in-cosmetics global En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JYud8gXeSCXnbhGPTwVxX_RQYaZZLROA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30445 [article]

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Active lifestyles need fine-tuned formulations / James Hodgkinson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 45-47 Titre : Active lifestyles need fine-tuned formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James Hodgkinson, Auteur ; Lauren Kempen, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 45-47 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Lèvres -- Protection Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Style de vie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - HOW DOES THIS RELATE TO PERSONAL CARE ? - WHAT IS ACTIVE BEAUTY ? : Sweat and wear resistance - UV protection - Anti-pollution - Health and wellbeing - CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT - FORMULATION CONCEPTS - Formulation : Water proof plumping lip balm (DS 0103) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TQ43HMNhKx1V_HGiiO1EqeSn0GzrV1i5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30446 [article]

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Enhanced foaming properties and mildness on skin / Victor Low in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 49-52 Titre : Enhanced foaming properties and mildness on skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Victor Low, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 49-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Essais (technologie) Ether de polyglycidyle Formulation (Génie chimique) Moussants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surfactants Tests cutanés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant delivers the best of both worlds. It offers an excellent irritation profile, with mildness on a par with PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, combined with the initial flash foaming speed of decyl glucoside, a moderate to severe irritant (based on our study). Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant builds foam structure faster than PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, and creates a more stable foam structure and creamier foam. It has higher surface activity than PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, resulting in efficacious cleansing and a better cost-performance ratio. Classified as very low-irritating, it is a gentle surfactant for skin and hair applications where mildness is needed. In addition, Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant mitigates surfactant penetration into the stratum corneum, protecting skin from potential damage caused by harsh surfactants and maintaining the stratum corneum moisture balance. Note de contenu : - Making the perfect polyglyrecyl ester - Foam performance - Surfactancy attributes - Irritation profile - Skin penetration test - FIGURES : 1. Flash foam analysis of polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant vs. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate vs. decyl glucoside - 2. Foam image analysis of face washes with the different surfactants - 3. Dynamic surface tension analysis - 4. Confocal Raman image analysis : SDS-applied skin - 5. Confocal Raman image analysis : skin applied with Polyaldo 10-1-CC mild surfactant + SDS - 6. Confocal Raman image analysis of water content : untreated, control skin - 7. Confocal Raman image analysis of water content : SDS-applied skin - 8. Confocal Raman image analysis of water content skin aplied with Polyaldo 10-1 CC mild surfactant + SDS - TABLES : Epiderm skin irritation test (SIT) - EpiOcular irritation test En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i8dOAXt7rgYbIEWNYw0FgvW9AjJYFTpd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30447 [article]

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Biomimetic emulsifier with cashmere touch / Audrey Manière in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 54-58 Titre : Biomimetic emulsifier with cashmere touch Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Audrey Manière, Auteur ; Aurélie Trunet, Auteur ; Camille Olive, Auteur ; Carine Bezivin, Auteur ; Estelle Loing, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 54-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Biomatériaux Chimie biomimétique Douceur (toucher) Emulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phospholipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Choosing the right emulsifier is crucial for the success of a formulation. Biophilic H is a naturel phospholipid-based emulsifier with highly desirable properties. Its biomimetic lamellar structure guarantees strong biocompatibility and optimal skin tolerance. It is a performant emulsifier, capable of emulsifying up to 30% all on itself and compatible with all kinds of alls, pigments, as well as chemical and physical UV filters. its content in saturated lecithin provides important thickening properties and allow the formulation of white and odorless emulsions of various consistency, from cream to butter, with excellent spreadability. it also texturises formulations with a soft cashmere touch. Biophilic H is more than a performant emulsifier. it also acts as an efficient delivery system assuring more effective and faster diffusion of actives. On top of that, it has biological activities that help maintain skin functions, such has hydration and berner function. lt also shows immediate skin smoothing action and preserves skin brightness balance. It additionally brings an outstanding and unique sensory profile as soft and sophisticated as cashmere, even allow percentage. Emotionally approved by consumers, it triggers pleasure and wellbeing upon application. Biophilic H can be associated with advertising claims such as : natural engin, biodegradable, sustainable engin, RSPO certified ingredient (available with the MB grade : Biophilic H MB), safe materials and GRAS-status (generally recognized as safe) Note de contenu : - TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS : Biocompatibility - Lamellar structure - Formulation characteristics - DELIVERY SYSTEM - ACTIVE PROPERTIES : Effects on hydration and barrier function - Smoothing effect and reduction of deep wrinkles appearance - Blurring effect on skin - UNIVERSAL EMOTIONAL RESPONSE PROFILE : A source of wellbeing - FIGURES : 1. Promotion of lamellar structures - 2. Biophilic H as a delivery system - 3. Effects of biophilic H on hydration and barrier function - 4. Smoothing effect of biophilic H - 5. Effect of biophilic H on skin gloss - 6. Universal emotional response profile to biophilic H - 7. Biophilic H, the biomimetic multifunctional emulsifier with a cashmere touch - TABLE : Formulation characteristics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zTyLjd_xjI6KfirczcimgeQBxLW5NdxH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30448 [article]

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Sulfate-free surfactants : what about sulfonates ? / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 61-65 Titre : Sulfate-free surfactants : what about sulfonates ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 61-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement Sulfoacétates Sulfonates Sulfosuccinates Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sulfate-free or not sulfate-free? That is the question when customers are studying the INCI list of personal care products and find ingredients like surfactants based on sulfoacetates or sulfosuccinates. In fact, the discussion linked to that question is rather fruitless but one by one.... Conversations with customers show that the demand for sulfate-free cleansing products is growing more and more. Surfactant producers follow this trend and increasingly aim to develop sulfate-free surfactants. Additionally, already existing suitable products are claimed as sulfate-free. Of course there is no question that sulfur-free surfactants like for instance the mild and natural based Zschimmer & Schwarz Protelan- and Sebumol-Types (hydrophilic groups: amino acids or their derivatives and polyglycerol)' are sulfate-free. In discussions, the clarity in answering the question "sulfate-free or not sulfate-free?" disappears often in that moment when sulfur-containing surfactants like sulfonates corne into play. Therefore, in the following we will focus on sulfoacetates and sulfosuccinates as prominent representatives of sulfonate surfactants used in personal care applications. The perspectives that we take at first are driven by the chemistry followed by the application. Note de contenu : - Chemical perspective - Mildness of surfactants - Why sulfonates as replacement for sulfate surfactants - Products based on alkyl sulfosuccinates and/or alkyl sulfoacetates - Zschimmer & Schwarz sulfonate surfactants in detail - Foam and viscosity in sulfoacetate sulfosuccinate based surfactant system : Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate - Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate - Special application of sulfoacetate/sulfosuccinate surfactants : colour protection - FIGURES : 1. Alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate (≥ 1) : C-O-S bonds - 2. Alkyl(ether) sulfosuccinate and alkyl sulfoacetate : C-S bonds - 3. Hydrogen sulfite - 4. Inorganic sulfate - 5. Different location of the sulfo-group : top and middle : sulfo-groups next to ester groups : "methyl-bridge" between sulfo- and ester groups - 6. Mean index of ocular irritation (test results : Z&S) : SLS : Sodium lauryl sulfate, SLES (2 EO) : sodium laureth-2-sulfate, CAPB : cocamido propyl betaine, indicated ration : related to active matter - 7. Patch test on human skin (test results Institute for Skin and Product Evaluation) A. m. : Active matter - 8. Viscosity behaviour of the formulation based on Lumoral K5601 - 9. Colour protection (different dye stuffs) by different shampoos, SLES : Sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB : cocamido propyl betaine - TABLES : 1. Shampoo formulation baed on Lumoral K 5019 - 2. Body wash formulation based on Lumoral K 5601 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YPaq84P1RxDO207khb5sdxsCv2WGs5ti/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30449 [article]

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Natural and synthetic : bridging the gap / Naama Eylon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 67-69 Titre : Natural and synthetic : bridging the gap Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Naama Eylon, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Essais (technologie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article will outline the development process of new preservative solutions by Sharon Laboratories : Sharom TM Amplify, and SharoSense TM Plus. The industry analysis that led the decision to develop two new concepts 'less is more' and 'synthetic-naturals' as well as review the product efficacy and compatibility for the personal care industry. The development project of the preservatives Amplify Line, started from the challenges the personal care industry is facing due to the global trends in preservation. The task formulators must address is choosing a preservative solution that will guarantee product safety. The risk of contamination can be influenced by many factors. Note de contenu : - Taking a new approach to preservation - Solving formulation problems - Preserving natural formulations - Test results - FIGURES : 1. Amplify MIC comparison - 2. Amplify challenge test - SharoSense Plus MIC comparison - 4. SharoSense Plus challenge test - TABLE : Challenge test En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pt8wlXDB7g02eHiygSGy8l7NM6pDM5F1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30450 [article]

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Into the red storm : fighting the effects of inflammation / Marisabel Mourelle in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 71-73 Titre : Into the red storm : fighting the effects of inflammation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marisabel Mourelle, Auteur ; Joan Gonzàlez, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 71-73 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Curcumine Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pins et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin inflammation is the most commonly found disorder in dermatology and many products are now aimed at treating sensitive, reactive, atopic-prone skin. jfter 4 weeks application of the cream containing Activys Red-Out a significant improvement in red spots (18%) and red spots area (21.2%) was observed compared to placebo cream. Pictures taken before (DO) and after (D28) treatment with Activys Red-Out illustrate the expected benefits of regular use of a product containing the active ingredient and a significant improvement in the visible signs of inflammation and general comfort of the skin. Note de contenu : - Definition - A new delivery system developed for sensitive skin - Curcumin and pine bark : a powerful combination against flushing and redness - Analysis of gene expression modulation - Immune systems related genes : CXCL 14 suggests an immediate role in skin inflammation - Skin barrier function related genes - Reduction of inflammation markers - Restoring functions in a compromised lipid barrier layer and reducing visible signs of redness in atopic-prone skin - TABLE : Genes upregulated on in vitro cultured human keratinocytes - FIGURES : 1. Skin penetration : confocal microscopy of pig-skin section (0h and 20 h) after topical treatment with Activys. Green areas indicate presence of Activys (stained with FITC BSA) - 2. Kinetics : penetration of Activys capsules assessed in pig-skin results indicates that Activys-efficiently penetrate into skin layers after topical application - 3. Activys capsule anti-inflammatory activity per se Clinical photography and spectroscopic analysis for redness quantification after Activys application in a serum at 1% - 4. Reduction of inflammatory markers. Synergy between actives and encapsulation system En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_O7SNUJnzZ-cC50ZPUOUe3TZKjGwyCd6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30451 [article]

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Considerations when formulating mild products / Jennifer Hermitage in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 74-76 Titre : Considerations when formulating mild products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Hermitage, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 74-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Confort Cosmétiques Cosmétiques pour nourrissons Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With more consumers than ever concerned with the issue of sensitive skin, coupled with the general concern of many over what is in their cosmetics, it seems feasible that the growing trend for shorter INCI lists will gain traction and become a fixture of certain brands. As niche brands continue to flourish, it seems certain that we will see a growing number of products/collections for those who want attractive cosmetics that are still kind to their skin. It is important for professionals within the industry to continue to highlight the difference between materials that are scientifically proven to lie 'mild' and those which are simply perceived as such. Public perception is swayed by attractive-sounding INCIs, marketing stories and skewed media reports leading to perfectly innocuous materials being boycotted, whilst other materials that just sound good are in high demand. Sensationalism should be counteracted with informed and educational advice in the mainstream. Note de contenu : - Surfactants types - Non-drying - Baby - Skin comfort - Table : Product properties En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RKQTQ9YIpQdq3AsxyQksgHePHRDZ4h9B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30452 [article]

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Regulation of cosmetic products in US / Martin Perry in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 79-81 Titre : Regulation of cosmetic products in US Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Perry, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 79-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Etats-Unis Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article aims to give an overview of how cosmetics are regulated in the United States of America. It looks at the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, The Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, adulterated and misbranded cosmetics, colour additives, sunscreen products, and the role of the Food and Drug Administration. Note de contenu : - Cosmetic, drug, or both ? - How are cosmetics regulated ? - Fair packaging and labeling act - Food and drug administration (FDA) - Adulterated and misbranded cosmetics - Prohibited and restricted ingredients - Colour additives - Coal-tar hair dyes - Good manufacturing practice - Sunscreen products - Microbead-free waters act of 2015 - Antibacterial soap - California safe cosmetics act - Cosmetic ingredient review (CIR) - Exporting to the US En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wyZMBB-ViFDargt3ph9XpKvrgPl6X3Sy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30453 [article]

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The natural solution to pollution / Bernd Walzel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 83-88 Titre : The natural solution to pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Walzel, Auteur ; Beatrix Senti, Auteur ; Stefan Bänziger, Auteur ; Ulrike Bätz, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 83-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Chimie végétale Cosmétiques Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Exposure to air pollutants is one of the major threats to skin health. Contaminants attack the skin on several levels : they induce oxidative stress, they stimulate inflammatory pathways, and they accelerate the ageing process of skin. As a consequence, consumers demand functional cosmetics that prevent and repair pollution-induced skin damage. In this respect, the most promising approach is using the body's endogenous detoxification machinery, which is composed of a multitude of cell-protective and detoxifying mechanisms. These powerful systems are capable of neutralising thousands of toxic molecules per second, whereas the mere application of antioxidants is much less efficient, as one antioxidant molecule is capable of neutralising only one free radical. HerbaShield URB addresses these concerns. The COSMOS-approved multi-component active ingredient targets three mechanisms to naturally reduce pollution-induced skin damage : It strengthens the skin's barrier through hydrogenated lecithin ; it protects from radical oxygen species through natural antioxidants ; and it enhances the endogenous detoxification machinery through natural activators of detoxifying enzymes. The presented anti-pollution ingredient is a perfect fit for anti-ageing cosmetics and to be formulated in skin care applications, such as face care, body care, and cleansing products. Note de contenu : - THE SKIN'S OWN DETOXIFICATION TOOLS : Phase I. Pollutants are activated for further processing, but become toxic - Phase II : Activated toxins are conjugated to S-glutathione and eliminated fromt the body - ANTI-POLLUTION STRATEGY FOR COSMETICS - THE NATURAL APPROACH TO SKIN DETOXIFICATION : Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) - detoxifying - Nettle (Urtica dioica) - antioxidant, detoxifying - Horsetail extrace (equisetum arvense) - protecting, antioxidant, detoxifying - Hydrogenated lecithin - protectin, barrier-forming - PHYTOCHEMICAL ANALYSIS : Objective - Techniques - Results - PARTICULATE MATTER AND POLLUTANTS IMPARI SKIN CELLS : Objective - Technique-MTT assay - Results - ACTIVATION OF Nrf2 - ENHANCING. PHASE II DETOXIFICATION : Objective - Technique - Results - REDUCING ANTIOXIDATIVE STRESS - ENHANCING PHASE I DETOXIFICATION : Objective-DCF assay - Results - POLLUTION CAUSES SKIN AGEING - AN IN VIVO STUDY : Objective - Techniques En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TlgfNks22_eSJvdfMYrUpQpiUHDKaXGa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30454 [article]

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Advanced instrumentation optimises nail care products / Jo Smewing in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 90-92 Titre : Advanced instrumentation optimises nail care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jo Smewing, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 90-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ongles -- Soins et hygiènes Vernis à ongles -- Analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In a vast global cosmetics market forecast to reach US$ 675 billion by 2020, only the fittest can survive. That means outstanding consumer insight, creativity, constant NPD and a sharp focus on quality. While these attributes are required throughout the category, it is especially the case when it cornes to nail cosmetics. A longstanding aspect of the beauty industry, nail care has become a top priority for many consumers in today's celebrity-obsessed, selfie-taking society. With demand growing incessantly, it is more important than ever to develop the perfect product quickly and ensure quality standards are never compromised. Using objective analysis techniques is a reliable and proven way to optimise formulations and maintain quality and consistency, so improving consumer experience, boosting loyalty and growing long-term sales. Note de contenu : - Challenging formulations - Nail polish : the star of the nail care category - Assessign nail polish performance at the time of application - Evaluating dry nail polish - Film features - FIGURES : 1. Results of adhesive tests conducted over a period of approximately forty minutes - 2. Nail polish properties shown on a force/time graph generated by exponent software following adhesive tests - 3. Nail gel is harder than polish when first applied - 4. Polish remains stickier for longer than gel - 5. Gel is more stringy than polish during drying, but dries faster - 6. Comparison of adhesive forces of two nail wraps En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nTwFE_5tgg4S8wfYW0Jl50MHxqFn0t5H/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30455 [article]

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Formulating with sweet almond oil / Sam Greenberg in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 94-96 Titre : Formulating with sweet almond oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sam Greenberg, Auteur ; Jeff Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 94-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Huile essentielle d'amande douce Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since before the time of ancient Rome, sweet almond oil has been an effective moisturiser and beauty treatment. These civilisations prized beauty at least as much as contemporary populations and the purity of their skin oils, salves and lotions quite literally set the standard for the unadulterated, natural ingredients we use today. The same rich, therapeutic emollient qualities of pure sweet almond oil that have softened skin and conditioned hair over the centuries continue to add value to health and beauty products today. The growth in beauty products labelled and promoted as "natural" or "all natural" has skyrocketed in the last decade and now represent 41 per cent of the total personal care products market, according to market research firm Nielsen. This rapid growth is due to increased almond oil demand in the personal care industry. Blue Diamond's expertise has protected the quality and integrity of its products for over a century. Our commitment to producing only 100% pure sweet almond oil drives the effectiveness and quality when formulating premium cosmetics and personal care products. It connects with our history as a global supplier dedicated to superior quality and service. Note de contenu : - Understanding sweet almond oil at a molecular level - Sweet almond oil's unique balance of acids and fats - Testing assures purity. Purity assures efficacy - Educated consumers want authenticity - The endless possibilities of the almond - Table : Fatty acid profiles compared En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BgJv6uQ6OuBPOeR8QZ2gMtbMCgcShiO-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30456 [article]

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Fragrances with broad microbial protection / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 100-101 Titre : Fragrances with broad microbial protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Intervieweur ; Andrea Wingenfeld, Personne interviewée ; Karen Winkowski, Personne interviewée Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 100-101 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement Cosmétiques Houblon et constituants Le houblon ou houblon grimpant (Humulus lupulus) est une plante herbacée vivace grimpante de la famille des Cannabaceae. Elle a parfois pour noms vernaculaires couleuvrée septentrionale, bois du diable, salsepareille indigène ou vigne du Nord. Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The safety of personal care and cosmetic products is at the top of every manufacturer's list of priorities, and a high level of safety would not be possible without the use of preservative ingredients which eliminate the growth of organisms within aqueous formulations. However, the range of available preservative ingredients is very limited, meaning that formulators must be creative with their anti-microbial strategies. With this in mind, Ashland has introduced a new aromatic for the personal care and cosmetics industry that also contributes to the preservation of end use products delivering multifunctional benefits including broad anti-microbial protection. Conarom TM b aromatic addresses growing consumer demand for multifunctional and sustainable ingredients. The aromatic is based on naturally derived hops extract and the nature identical phenylpropanol. It adds a gentle flowery-to-spicy fragrance to differentiate and impart additional allure to the end use formulation. At dosages of 0.3 to 2% it contributes to microbial stabilisation by delivering broad antimicrobial protection as a secondary effect. Conarom b aromatic can be added to formulations at any phase of production when worked into products at ambient temperature. Ashland say that typical uses include body and skin care emulsions, sun care, shampoo and body washes, conditioners and wet wipes. Personal Care magazine spoke to Karen Winkowski, PhD, global technical director, Preservatives and Microbial Technology, Ashland, and Andrea Wingenfeld, global marketing manager, Preservatives and Medical Care, Ashland, to discover more about the company's approach to preservation and the new multifunctional ingredient. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l8u5D8PB2zSreKkQl84SjwOwJtxElUJn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30457 [article]

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How to support the skin's own protective strategies / Gabrielle Moro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 105-108 Titre : How to support the skin's own protective strategies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabrielle Moro, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 105-108 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Film hydrolipidique (dermatologie) Le film hydrolipidique est un film protecteur recouvrant la totalité de la surface de l'épiderme humain. C'est une émulsion complexe formée de substances provenant de sécrétions (sueur, sébum...) et d'agrégats cellulaires kératinisés ou morts. Son pH est légèrement acide. Ce film est à la base de la qualité de l'aspect extérieur de la peau puisqu'il la protège de plusieurs façons : - Il participe à la constitution de la barrière cutanée (avec la couche cornée) qui s'oppose à la pénétration de substances étrangères, - Il régule l'hydratation en maintenant les substances hygroscopiques (qui ont des affinités avec l'eau) dans les cellules cornées, - Il lutte contre les agressions microbiennes en autorisant toutefois le développement de la flore normale. (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Often described as the skin's barrier function, the epidermis is considered to be the first protection of our body against external factors. For a long time, the cornified layer, which is the upper layer of the epidermis, has been considered as the first line of defence of the skin. Although the cornified layer is the outer layer of the epidermis, it is no more considered as the outer layer of our skin. On its surface, a homemade biofilm actually ensures the first protection of our skin, this biofilm is called hydrolipidic film and hosts skin microbiota. The hydrolipidic film (HLF) is a protective film that covers the entire surface of the skin. This is an emulsion of water and lipids which acts to lock in moisture and as a defence against non-resident bacteria. It mainly consists of perspiration, water, sebum, and lipids. Its alteration is characteristic of lipid dry skins or essential fatty acids deficient skins, which are literally stripped due to limited sebaceous gland excretions. In this case skin takes a reactive appearance, it can appear hot/burning, possibly itchy ; it shows signs of roughness and dullness. Ail these factors indicate loss of structural integrity. Note de contenu : - Factors that can impair the HLF are numerous - A homemade protective biofilm with resident bacterial biofilm part of the HLF - How to rebalance HLF ? - How to rebalance skin microbiota ? - FIGURES : 1. Visualisation of sebum production in green fluorescence by human sebocytes cultivated in dry skin model conditions, without and with 0.02 % Wakapamp for 8 days - 2. Variation of the fraction represented by squalene and was ester in sebum produced by human sebocytes cultivated in dry skin model conditions withou and with 0.02 % Wakapant for 8 days - 3. Visualisation of the improvement of satin aspect on dry skins treated with 0.1% Wakapamp twice daily for 2 weeks. Aspect of the facial skin before and after breatment with Wakapamp - 4. Variation of skin microbiota print of volunteers during a temporary period of stress and after 1 week treatment with 1% Actibiome - 5. In vivo benefits of 1% Actibiome after 1 week treatment versus placebo on skin beauty and skin health. Volunteer's self-evaluation using numeric scale *p - TABLES : 1. Composition of the lipid part of hydrolipidic film - 2. Analysis of bacterial genus which are the more impacted by a transient period of stress, and the reversing effect of 1% Actibiome versus placebo after 1 week treatment - 3. Composition of Actibiome En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ejuu-gcCVHmjLDO9bQyzggblm2hGhlGq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30458 [article]

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100% natural protection against blue light / Mariagrazia Barbagallo in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 110-114 Titre : 100% natural protection against blue light Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mariagrazia Barbagallo, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 110-114 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiradicalaire Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Lumière bleue Olive et constituants Peau -- Effets de la lumière Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin ageing is a multifactorial process that involves outdoor and indoor envSkin ageing is a multifactorial process that involves outdoor and indoor environmental factors. Outdoor stress factors, such as UV radiation and air pollution, have been already recognised for their rote in accelerating skin ageing. The role of indoor factors has not been well highlighted yet. High energy visible (HEV) blue light is both an indoor and outdoor environmental factor, whose long-terni exposure contributes to accelerate premature ageing. Blue light is a portion of visible light (400 nm-500 nm) that causes a strong production of radical oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals, which, in turn, affect cell viability and cellular components such as DNA, lipids and proteins. Blue light radiation cornes from the sun, but mainly from electronic devices (e.g. TVs, smartphones, PCs and tablets) we are constantly exposed to. Bionap proposes an olive fruit extractto counteract the signs related to blue light exposure. Olive fruit extract is a natural and eco-friendly ingredient hat originates from a by-product of Sicilian olive oil production. The capability of olive fruit extract to reduce the effects of blue light was tested on human epidermal keratinocytes and fibroblasts treated with light-emitting diode-generated blue light (LED-BL). We evaluated cell viability, ROS production, DNA damage and the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-12) and collagen type 1. In vitro tests demonstrated that olive fruit extract was able to protect skin cells from blue light. Furthermore, the extract strongly reduces ROS production, protects DNA from oxidative damage, decreases the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-12 and promotes the synthesis of collagen type I. The extract was previously tested on UV radiation, demonstrating to be capable of contrasting the signs of UV exposure. Therefore, Bionap's olive fruit extract is a promising natural and sustainable ingredient to counteract and reduce premature ageing from indoor and outdoor environmental factors. Note de contenu : - Experimental protocol - Effect of olive fruit extract on cell viability - Antioxidant activity of olive fruit extract - reactive oxygen species (ROS) assay - Effect of olive fruit extract on ble light-induced DNA damage - 8-OHdG and PCNA evaluation by Western Blot - 8-OHdG and PCNA evaluation by immunocytochemistry - Table : Protocol conditions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ydCxJOvcHUzHLl3CfOSBrQFBJixUTwSD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30459 [article]

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PVP-wrapped fullerenes as skin protection / Mio Murakami in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 117-120 Titre : PVP-wrapped fullerenes as skin protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mio Murakami, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 117-120 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Fullerènes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Polyvinylpyrrolidone Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Rough skin, which occurs because of barrier disruption, is one of the most important cosmetic problems. The outermost surface of the body is covered by the stratum corneum, which is an effective barrier essential for preventing epidermal water loss and impeding the entry of external stimulus. The stratum corneum comprises layered cornified cells produced by the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids. Whether Radical Sponge has a barrier recovery effect was investigated. Radical Sponge prevented the decrease in cornified envelope and transglutaminase-1 mRNA expression induced by ultraviolet radiation. In addition, it could lessen oxidative stress-induced water loss. In human studies, Radical Sponge was shown to accelerate the recovery of barrier disruption by tape-stripping, and the combination of Radical Sponge and hyaluronic acid further accelerated the recovery. These results suggest that Radical Sponge as an antioxidant may offer a new solution for rough skin. Note de contenu : - What is fullerene ? - Measurement of the cornified envelope - Determination of transglutaminase-1 m-RNA expression - Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in a 3D skin model - Human study - FIGURES : 1. Rough skin and causes - 2. Effects of the radical sponge (RS), PVP on ratios of cells with cornified envelope (CE). The bars represent means with SDs of three experiment. *P<0.05, **P<0.01 - 3. Effects of the Radical Sponge (RS) on RT-PCR of transglutaminase-1. The bars represent means with SDs of three experiments. **P<0.01 versus non-UV control at ΔCT stage - 4. Effect of oxidative stress (tert-butyl peroxide ; t-BuOOH) on trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The bars represent means SDs of three to four experiments. *P<0.05 - 5. Clinical evaluation of barrier recovery of the Radical Sponge (RS). The points represent means with SDs of 10 subjects. *P<0.05 - 6. Clinical evaluation of the combined effect of the Radical Sponge (RS) and hyaluronic acid (HA). The bars represent means with SDs of nine subjects. *P<0.05, **P<0.01 - 7. Barrier recovery effect of the Radical Sponge En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ssWx5kRQZVAub4wTHVd0dgxIXBfPR_e9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30460 [article]

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Urban pollution protection for beautiful, balanced skin / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 122-124 Titre : Urban pollution protection for beautiful, balanced skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 122-124 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Antiâge Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Métaux lourds Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In our urbanised and industrialised environments, we are exposed to increasingly abundant environmental pollutants. Heavy metals, PAHs and aldehydes is just wshort list of toxic compounds surrounding us, having detrimental effects in our skin and body, causing respiratory diseases, headaches, asthma and skin rashes, which are just a few health aspects to mention. High Energy Visible (HEV) light including blue light is another type of 'pollution' affecting among others our skin. Our appearance is the first to be affected, with early signs of ageing, wrinkles, pigmentation spots, disrupted barrier, overall dryness and skin imperfections all associated with polluted environments. IBR-UrBioTect, an extract of Inula helenium, may help repair and reverse the effects of pollution, according to results of a clinical study in a smoking environment (cigarette smoke). In this study, reduction of early signs of ageing in a smoking environment has been achieved using a formula containing 1% IBR-UrBioTect. The extract has also been shown to chelate and neutralise pollutants such as heavy metals which cause accumulated damage to the skin, as efficiently protect skin cells from HEV induced ROS production. We propose here a natural and innovative solution to relieve and repair the effects of pollution on the skin and the appearance of early signs of aging in a polluted environment, promoting a lighter skin tone as well as reducing wrinkle count, and improving skin elasticity and barrier function. Note de contenu : - Protection in a smoking environment - in vivo study - Protects from heavy metals : chelation (Rohman et al. 2010) - Detoxifying and pre-biotic benefits - protection from blue ligh-HEV - FIGURES : 1. ITA variation - 2. Wrinkle count variation - 2. Elasticity (R2) variation periorbital - 3. Elasticity (R2) variation periorbital - 4. TEWL malar evolution - 5. Illustrative images - 6. Detoxification effect (Dunaliella salina culture) - 7. Dunaliella culture contaminated with gasoline - 8. IBR-UrBioTect significantly inhibits HEV-induced ROS production in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g5bagoxO_zAWya-t-k_5hsFVyqzHmL1t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30461 [article]

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Returning to our origins through skin rewilding / Julia Comas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 127-129 Titre : Returning to our origins through skin rewilding Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Marie Ollagnier, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 127-129 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Discomfort, fragility, dehydration, scaliness and redness are all characteristics of sensitive skin that is lacking an effective defense system. Individuals living in urban environments are more prone to suffer from skin sensitivity, suggesting a relationship between low exposure to nature and inflammatory disorders. The link between nature and skin health involves the skin microbiota, which has been found to be different in uncontacted populations with healthier and more protected skin. FensebiomeTM peptide helped promote a healthy microbiome similar to that of our ancestors in doser contact with nature and to reinforce the physical barrier function by improving the cell cohesion and the skin barrier protective effect on urban subjects, helping restore sensitive skin. Note de contenu : - Favourable skin microbiome : Diversity - Composition - Microbiome functional profile - Enhanced skin cell cohesion - Barrier protection effect - Promoting the adhesion of beneficial skin microbiota - Modulation of the immune response - Reinforcing the key epidermal barrier compartments - Improved epidermal barrier functionality : Stratum granulosum integrity - FIGURES : 1. Fluorescence microscopy, images obtained from different strips before and after each treatment - 2. TEWL decrease vs. damage after different treatments (vs initial time : ****p<0.0001) - 3. Keratinocytes nuclei (lue) pre-incubated with only the medium or with the active treatment, showing adhesion of S. epidermidis (green) and of S. aureus (red) - 4. Inside-out diffusionthrough reconstructed human epidermis models. Presence of tracer is observed in green (cell nuceli are stained in blue) - 5. Outside-in diffusion of the toluiding blue dye into the stratum corneum under different conditions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s_WHH8PY-hpRtH1wzUYmo8uoXUiDdV1c/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30462 [article]

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Improved cell nucleus health with moss cell technology / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 131-134 Titre : Improved cell nucleus health with moss cell technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Bernhard Henes, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 131-134 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biotechnologie Cellules végétales Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Hydratation Mousses (plantes) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Mosses were among the first plants that conquered the land and they used their extraordinary adaptation abilities to survive from the prehistoric age until the present day. To harvest the resilient properties of moss, an innovative moss cell technology was used to grow moss cells as a culture in the lab. Latest research has shown triat the moss active contributes to 'cell nucleus health', a novel anti-ageing concept. The cell nucleus does not only contain the cell's DNA but is also involved in regulating important cellular processes. Efficient transport of molecules into and out of the cell nucleus is crucial for adapting to the ever-changing environment. In vitro studies have shown that the moss extract improves expression of cell nucleus health markers in aged cells and helps skin adapt to climatic changes. In a placebo controlled clinical study with women that are exposed to daily temperature changes in the summer, the moss active significantly improved skin hydration, barrier and homogeneity after just two weeks for a more resilient skin. Note de contenu : - Mosses : the first plants on earth - Biotechnology to grow moss in the lab - Materials and methods : Gene expression in old vs. young keratinocytes - Temperature and humidity adaptation of 3D skin model - Skin adaptation in a clinical study - Results and discussion : Moss extract improves cell nucleus health in aged skin cells - FIGURES : 1. Schematic illustration of the components of the cell nucleus - 2. Gene expression of cell nucelus health markers in keratinocytes from a young donor and an ol donor treated with Physcomitrella patens extract - 3. Adaptation of 3D skin models treated with the moss active to climatic changes - 4. Expression of the stress marker LCE1A in 3D skin models determined with immunofluorescence and image analysis - 5. Improvement of skin hydration with the moss active - 6. Improvement of TEWL with the moss active - 7. Improvement of skin tone homogeneity with the moss active - 8. Visible improvement of skin tone with the moss active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ESPk9qQdm_ZotIYuKkGMk5GSu8l7rW2B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30463 [article]

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Looking good now more complex than ever / Claire Summer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 137-139 Titre : Looking good now more complex than ever Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Claire Summer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 137-139 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Texture Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumer consciousness is ever present and the desire for a healthy lifestyle is reflected in the products they use. Coupled with an ever growing awareness and support for sustainability, renewability and claims of being natural, the formulator is faced with challenges to create new concepts and formulations that allow the consumer to look good, feel better and be socially responsible, all at the same time. Fitness occurs in a broad range of unique environments, each bringing a challenge to the formulator. From the beach to the pool, from outdoor activities to indoor workouts, the elements range dramatically, therefore today's ingredients need to address the physical as well as social needs. Optimum hydration for the skin and hair is paramount and so is the sensory side that consumers desire. The Active Beauty range of formulations from Azelis addresses these needs, reflecting the ever changing way that we work, rest and play, and how consumers make their product choices. Sensorial aspects, such as texture, are valuable parameters which can be used to reinforce the attributes of any formulation. For Active Beauty it becomes even more pertinent as speed of use and effectiveness of a formulation are key in our fast-paced world. Raw material selection is an important factor affecting consumer choices, with functionality remaining a key part. However the provenance of the raw material, be it the manufacturing process, its source or its sustainability credentials, also play an ever increasing role in the users' minds. Consumers are now looking for products which are not only effective but also make them feel good physically, while supporting their values for sustainable, renewable and responsibly sourced ingredients. From the moment we wake, until the end of the day, our skin is exposed to many unique environments. Protecting and allowing the skin to recover is the key to the active beauty trend. Azelis has created a collection of six formulations for in-cosmetics, which demonstrates the diversity and textures achievable using today's innovative raw materials. Note de contenu : - A great start - Protection from the sun - Exercise-proof beauty - For active men - Enhancing the exercise regime - Formulation 1 : perfect skin day care - Formulation 2 : Active body butter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10cnnXdabGUDEEEjo9Y7e2YFFOU6zgD7l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30464 [article]

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Fucoidan hydrolysation technology analysed / Charles-Henri Morice in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 141-143 Titre : Fucoidan hydrolysation technology analysed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charles-Henri Morice, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 141-143 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adsorption Agents de blanchiment Anti tyrosinase Antiâge Collagène -- Synthèse Fibroblastes Fucoïdanes famille de polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques. Un fucoïdane, ou une fucoïdine, est un fucane complexe qui appartient à la famille des polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques. Les polymères hétéropolydispersés sont des macromolécules dont les fractions peuvent toujours être séparées en sous-fractions et ainsi de suite jusqu'à aboutir théoriquement à la séparation des molécules. Malgré cette diversité en taille, de composition et de structure de chacune des molécules, les fractions obtenues avec une méthode donnée ont pourtant des propriétés physico-chimiques toujours parfaitement reproductibles. Les fucoïdanes tirent leur nom des algues du type fucus, et ils sont souvent assimilés comme des polysaccharides présents dans le wakamé ou d'autres algues brunes de mer. Des formes variantes de fucoïdane ont également été trouvées chez des espèces animales, notamment chez les concombres de mer. Le fucoïdane est (parfois...) employé en complément alimentaire pour améliorer les échanges cellulaires et leur vitesse d'activité, avec une amélioration du système immunitaire. (Aquaportail) Hydrolyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : French company, Lessonia, has developed a hydrolysation technology applied to fucoidans. This technology involves hydrolysing these fucoidan polymers to obtain precise fractions of biologically active oligosaccharides. The fucoidan's low.molecular weight is globally unique. The mass of molecular weight < 2 kDa can be Absorbed directly through the human skin. The hydrolysation process increases the skin care and anti-ageing effect of the fucoidan compared to the standard macromolecular structure. Lessonia developed two active ingredients from fucoidans, FucoreverseTM is an anti-ageing ingredient and Fucowhite a whitening ingredient. Note de contenu : - THE HYDROLYSATION TECHNOLOGY : What are fucoidans ? - The unique composition - Consequences on biological activity - Skin adsorption - PROTECTING AND REPAIRING THE EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX (ECM) : In vitro tests - Stimulating fibroblast proliferation - Stimulating type 1 collagen synthesis compared with the negative control - CLINICAL STUDY : Protocol - Results - WHITENING THE SKIN : Tyrosinase inhibitory activity - Lightening efficacy on Asian skin type - FIGURES : 1. Chemical structure of fucoidan polymer - 2. Chemical structure of Fucoreverse - 3. Fibroblasts proliferation relative to untreated cells - 4. Collagen synthesis relative to untreated cells - 5. Crow's feet wrinkles depth treatment with Fucoreverse at 1.5% versus placebo - 6. Macrophotography effect of 1.5% Fucoreverse on crow's feet wrinkles - 7. Tyrosinase inhibition activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oaJm7Kvb99mUL812SmuVMvQTMi0ouwSz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30465 [article]

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Horse chestnut flower extract redesigns eye contour / Amélie Clairet in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 145-148 Titre : Horse chestnut flower extract redesigns eye contour Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amélie Clairet, Auteur ; Viviane Bardin, Auteur ; Solène Trevisan, Auteur ; Matthieu Jomier, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 145-148 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With time, the fragility of the skin around the eyes and its permanent motion favour the formation of wrinkles. These lines change how our expression is read, in particular under-eye wrinkles and the tear trough or valley of tears which give the face an impression of tiredness and sadness. By reconnecting the epidermis to the dermis and enhancing the communication pathway, Gatuline® Link n Lift restores the features of a young skin and visibly reduces crow's feet, under-eye and tear trough wrinkles. The face regains a rested expression of authentic positive emotions. Note de contenu : - An innovative NaDES extract - A deciphered mechanism of action - Clinical study : a visible improvement of the eye contour area - Wrinkles and 3D prints - FIGURES : 1. By reconnecting the epidermis to the dermis and enhancing the communicator pathway Gatuline Link n Lift restores the features of a young skin - 2. Clinical evaluation on crow's feet, under-eye and tear trough wrinkles - 3. Clinical evaluation - assessment of the texture of the skin, its visual aspect and quality - 4. Crow's feet (vol.02-65y.o - D0/D56 - 5. Tear trough (vol. 14-62 y.o. - D0/D28 - 6. Acquisition of the 3D print of theunder-eye area of the volunteer (02 at D0 and D28 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wwg-fJPC_3pkdMlc2jHnZmqieCQGhyzh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30466 [article]

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Addressing dual concerns of sustainability and trends / Volker Rosenberger in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 150-151 Titre : Addressing dual concerns of sustainability and trends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Volker Rosenberger, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 150-151 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Taille des pores Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is a living organ with ever-changing and sometimes conflicting needs. To meet the expectations of today's consumers, skin care products must harness the skin's own synergies, responding flexibly to daily changes in skin condition. Dual action products offer a host of options to meet these expectations, but the duality claim must be logical, credible and scientifically substantiated. At the same time, the demand for natural, ethically sourced and environmentally friendly ingredients is growing. Inspired by fermented Asian food DSM's Beauactive® is a naturally derived, highly pure, potent hydroxystearic acid that provides two distinct benefits : it visibly reduces both conspicuous facial pores and age spots. Furthermore, it fulfills both DSM's high standards on sustainability and the principles of Green Chemistry and embraces the latest trend for transformational beauty products, combining science with a fun, new sensory experience for consumers. Note de contenu : - What consumers want: products that do more - Ageing skin : more than just wrinkles - Inspired by nature... - Meeting the challenge - In vivo study confirms effectiveness - Transformational products have the power to wow consumers - Fig. 1. Beauactive visibly improves the appearance of conspicuous facial pores - Fig. 2. Beauactive visibly reduced age spot contrast - Formulation : Transformin power cream En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16RWleHQxdnnTG8CV9cD97mk_jnbkGPd2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30467 [article]

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Innovative approach to control acne-prone skin / M.L. Vàzquez-Gonzàlez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 153-156 Titre : Innovative approach to control acne-prone skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M.L. Vàzquez-Gonzàlez, Auteur ; M. Cócerra, Auteur ; J. Nestor, Auteur ; G. Rodríguez, Auteur ; R. Saldaña, Auteur ; Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, Auteur ; O. López, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 153-156 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Etude in vivo Evaluation Evaluation visuelle Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Excessive sebum production can give rise to oily skin, shiny appearance, enlarged pores and favour the development of acne lesions. The care of acne-prone skin involves the use of harsh molecules, wash out and multi-step products that irritate the skin and limit user compliance. This study describes the development of a bicosome system that targets the epidermis and follicles to effectively deliver a sebostatic active compound and potentiate its effects on sebum production and acne lesion prevention. This is an alternative approach to that offered by current products, which can be included in the daily care of acne-prone skin. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : Skin penetration studies - In vivo studies - Instrumental evaluation - Clinical evaluation - Statistical studies - RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : Skin penetration studies - In vivo studies: assessment of sebum excretion - Prevention of acne lesions - Clinical evaluation: prevention of new acne lesions - Visual evaluation of the volunteers by the dermatologist - Tolerance study - FIGURES : 1. Cryo-TEM (Transmission Electron Microscopy) image of a Bicosome showing internal disc structures and the surrounding vesicle. Bar ) 200nm - 2. Microscope images from skin samples treated with a control solution of niacimide labelled with fluorescein and skin samples treated with the bicomide system labelled with fluorescein - 3. Average sebum amount ± SE at different experimental days (0,15 and 30) during the treatment with bicomide - 4. Visiopor photographs of the skin under UV light from different volunteers before and after the treatment with bicomide - 5. Decreases of the average % area covered by porphyrins ± SE at different experimental times during the treatment with bicomide - 6. Reduction of acne lesions after 30 days using bicomide - 7. Evaluation of the level of acne evaluated by the dermatologist (n=20) - 8. Visioface macrophotographs of volunteers showing the evolution of relevant acne lesions before and after the use of bicomide En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LeQIgcjUyNV75AmoiPo2UdLbbDCOwDAz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30468 [article]

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Rebalancing for lighter, less oily hair / Sonia Léglise in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 158-159 Titre : Rebalancing for lighter, less oily hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sonia Léglise, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 158-159 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiradicalaire Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux gras Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Because oily hair comes from a functional imbalance in the hair bulb, this needs to be corrected through targeted action on the production of oily substances, and also on the general protection of the hair. Note de contenu : - PEPPERMINT: A STORY - HOW IT WORKS : Repairing initial imbalances - Targeting the mechanisms at the origin of oily hair - TESTS : Clinical test results - In vitro test results - In vitro: regulating the quantity of oily substances - PROTECTS AND SOOTHES : Reduces the creation of free radicals in the hair bulb and scalp - Reduces irritation - Study of inflammation mediators - Fig. 1. Reduction of oilness and scalp irritation - Fig. 2. Study of inflammation mediators En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sd_5MnQxrWNi67vg88PKWHlKHa8J_LFk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30469 [article]

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New preservative system for personal care products / Arpit Wankhade in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 161-163 Titre : New preservative system for personal care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arpit Wankhade, Auteur ; Bhagyesh Sawant, Auteur ; Nirmal Koshti, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 161-163 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Conservation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An important component of personal care product is its preservation. Every product requires preservatives to protect the formulation from microbial contamination. Formulators use different types of preservative depending upon the need of personal care formulations. The choice of preservative depends on various factors such as antimicrobial spectrum, regulations, pH, end application etc. Note de contenu : - Composition - N-capryloyl glycine - N-undecylenoyl glycine - Benzoic acid - Sodium dehydroacetate - FORMULAS : 1. N-capryloil glycine - 2. N-undecylenoyl glycine - 3. Benzoic acid - 4. Sodium dehydroacetate - TABLE : Microbial effictiveness - FIGURES : 1. Challenge test of shampoo with 1% GalguardNT at 6.0pH - 2. Challenge test of cream with 1% GalguardNT at 6.0 pH En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DjccZ25nwZFN9x0BRV2ozmlfRt7L93n3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30470 [article]

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Responsible approach to sustainable cosmetics / Federica Carlomagno in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 165-167 Titre : Responsible approach to sustainable cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Federica Carlomagno, Auteur ; Alessandra A. Cominetti, Auteur ; Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 165-167 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Biodégradation Cosmétiques DD crème Développement durable Emollients Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In order to protect our planet's longevity, it is essential we pursue research into sustainably sourced technologies with a low impact on the environment. The cosmetic market, in line with this trend, requires a new generation of eco-friendly ingredients, based on performance, human safety and environmental preservation. Thanks to a knowledge-based partnership with a European leader in biochemicals, a different driver of innovation has been discovered in rene- wable and biodegradable emollients in order to satisfy these urgent sustainable needs. Tripelargonin is a concept, more than just an emollient. Note de contenu : - A strong commitment to sustainable cosmetics - Eco-friendly emollient agent - Cosmetic performance - Sustainable cosmetics : further developments - Fig. 1. Sensorial evaluation : Emulsion - Fig. 2. Sensorial evaluation : DD cream - Fig. 3. Sensorial evaluation : Sun spray oil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KZF9qrbCMoL_cQMEhgeIkfpsaVbWd33B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30471 [article]

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Extremolytes : fighting urban stress by the model of nature / Eva Galik in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 169-172 Titre : Extremolytes : fighting urban stress by the model of nature Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eva Galik, Auteur ; Janina Kienemund, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 169-172 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Cosmétiques Ectoine Peau -- Effets de la lumière Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Due to its global skin protection and regenerating efficacy, the extremolyte ectoine became a well-established active ingredient in the part years. Its unique and global anti-pollution activity has been demonstrated in vivo by analysis of barrier lipid oxidisation levels from the skin surface as well as in human lungs, where ectoine reduces inflammations induced by pollution particles. Ectoine's visible light protection property results in the reduction of the cell's oxidative stress response to visible light irradiation and the prevention of hyperpigmentation. In addition, the natural amino acid derivate regenerates environmentally irritated skin including the skin barrier function due to its strong anti-inflammatory benefits. In conclusion, ectoine is a multifunctional and safe active ingredient with clinically proven efficacy - very well-suited for cosmetic formulations, which need to match various consumer demands and market trends. Note de contenu : - Mode of action - Skin barrier repair - Anti-pollution efficacy of ectoine - Visible light and its influence on skin - Ectoine : visible light protection - FIGURES : 1. Ectoine hydro complex - 2. Protection shell around protein formed by ectoin hydro complexes - 3. Average values of TEWL improvement - 4. In vivo study design : smoke applicationon skin with standardised chamber system - 5. Nrf2 immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% ectoine pre-treatment batch with an dwithout visible light irradiation - 6. MC1R immunostaining of the negative control, placebo and 1% ectoine pre-treatment batch with and without visible light irradiation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/163-6IYHWMsulGGjbHJq3VzuVkDIeOGHq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30472 [article]

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Skin protection improved by natural actives / Marlène De Matos in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 174-175 Titre : Skin protection improved by natural actives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marlène De Matos, Auteur ; Hélène Foliguet, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 174-175 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : By using three actives, which have been targets of omics sciences first, Berkem set up a synergy effect helping the skin to be protected from its environment and from surrounding aggressions behind a shield : a cutaneous barrier. On one side, the cutaneous envelop is reinforced, leading to a maintained impermeability and thus cutaneous hydration. Moreover, barrier function is reestablished and acts like a shield against external aggressions, avoiding toxic molecules (pollutants, toxins...) to pass through. Finally, the dermis, skin is protected from the time passing action via the conservation of the extracellular matrix. Skin is hydrated, firmer and plumped. Note de contenu : - Oregano extract - Bilberry extract - Quince extract - Fig. 1. Loricrin expression - Fig. 2. Expression of the protective activity of the cutaneous barrier - Fig. 3 MMP-1 expression En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j6trPZYtPyi95CEmd-WRPhjDZvqQSs6-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30473 [article]

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Protein hydrolysates guard against heat damage / S. Mancon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 177-179 Titre : Protein hydrolysates guard against heat damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Mancon, Auteur ; A. Mondelli, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 177-179 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Contraintes thermiques Essais dynamiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Hydrolysats de protéines Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The prolonged use of heat styling devices may lead to cumulative effects on the hair fibre. These involve various physical and chemical changes of hair cuticle and cortex structure that seem significantly linked to a gradual protein thermal denaturation after exposure to high temperatures. The worsening of hair sensory attributesland hair breakage increase caused by cuticle and cortex layers degradation, are amongst the long-term damages of heat hairstyling : The aim of the present study was to evaluate the potential use of two Kelisema's protein hydrolysates derived from sesame seeds (Kelipro Sesame, INCI : Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein) and hemp seeds (Kelihemp, INCI : Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract) as hair heat protectants. Simulating a customer hair care practice, virgin hair tresses were pre-treated with protein hydrolysates aqueous solutions and subjected to repetitive thermal stress cycles using a straightening iron. Single-fibre tensile testing was performed to assess hair damage ; dry-state hair break stress and hair diameter change were evaluated. Note de contenu : - OBJECTIVE : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Protein hydrolysates and test solutions - Hair samples - Thermal treatment of hair - Hair strength evaluation - Fig. 1. Hair diameter change. Data are reported as % change respect to virgin - hair. Statistically significant vs virgin - hair (p<0.05) - Fig. 2. Hair strenght evaluation. data are normallised to hair diameter and expressed as % F/d (mN/µm) change respect to virgin - hair (100%). One-way ANOVA test resulted statistically significant (<0.05). Statistically significant vs virgin - hair (p<0.03) - Fig. 3. Hair substantivity on virgin hair. Data reported on the graph are expressed after subtraction on control values En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rnk1CqH2uSDM3YkrQk4lY7zT7XZOHyza/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30474 [article]

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