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Formation of lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification / Toshiyuki Suzuki in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 183-194 Titre : Formation of lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiyuki Suzuki, Auteur ; Hidetaka Iwai, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 183-194 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Emulsion  'Cristal  liquide'  'Gel  lipide'  Céramide  Emulsification  'Structure  lamellaire' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Recently developed emulsion technologies for the formation of fine emulsions, lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification were reviewed. As a basic information on liquid crystal emulsification, the structures and characteristic behaviours of lyotropic liquid crystals were summarized. Formation of a liquid crystalline phase was often seen in emulsions and biological systems. The significance of liquid crystal formation during emulsification was analysed by comparing the states and stabilities of emulsions prepared by different processes. Then uses of liquid crystals for formation of the characteristic emulsions and gels were also discussed. In liquid crystal emulsification, an oil phase is dispersed directly into the lamellar liquid-crystalline phase composed of surfactant, glycerol and water to prepare a gel-like oil-in-liquid crystal emulsion. This is followed by dilution with the remaining water to produce an emulsion. From the phase behaviour during emulsification and analysis of the local motion of the liquid crystal membrane by fluorometry, it was confirmed that the interaction between surfactant and a polyol molecule such as glycerol promotes hydrogen bonding and enhances the strength of the lamellar liquid crystal membranes, which results in the formation of oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions. The interaction between the liquid crystal and oil was analysed from the changes in molecular motion of the membrane at the oil-liquid crystal interface using the spin label technique of electron spin resonance (ESR). The fluidity of the liquid crystal membrane did not change when oil was added, and therefore oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions of various oils were prepared by the identical process. This lack of dependence of the liquid crystal membrane on oil results in the unique properties of liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used for oils of various polarity and different molecular constituents. When a self-organizing artificial stratum corneum lipid containing pseudo-ceramide was used as a principal component of the oil, a multilamellar emulsion of concentric lamellar structure was formed. The multilamellar emulsion supplements the physiological function of stratum corneum by the identical mechanism as natural intercellular lipids. High-pressure treatment of the lipid emulsion produced a gel-like emulsion crystal, in which the homogeneous nanoemulsion droplets were arranged in a hexagonal array. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10442 [article]

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Prebiotic cosmetics : an alternative to antibacterial products / Dirk Bockmühl in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 197-200 Titre : Prebiotic cosmetics : an alternative to antibacterial products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Dirk Bockmühl, Auteur ; Claudia Jassoy, Auteur ; Silke Nieveler, Auteur ; Regine Scholtyssek, Auteur ; Armin Wadle, Auteur ; Marianne Waldmann-Laue, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 197-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Flore cutanée Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The concept of prebiotics is well known from food products, where several ingredients are used to stimulate the beneficial gut microflora. However, prebiotic substances can in principle be applied to balance almost any microbial community to achieve advantageous effects. Since many cosmetic products target skin bacteria as a cause for undesirable conditions like inflammation or body odour, prebiotic actives can help to cope with these problems in a very effective way. To ensure a focused and successful mode of action we demonstrated that it is essential to analyse the microflora and the interactions between different bacterial species carefully. These analyses were made using a molecular method, fluorescence in situ hybridization (FISH), allowing a precise determination of a bacterial community without the drawbacks of classical culture methods. In a further step it was then possible to identify new actives that inhibit harmful or unwanted bacterial species while protecting the beneficial flora. Using a quick and reliable in vitro screening method we found several plant extracts (e.g. Ginseng or Black currant) which inhibit the inflammation-causing bacterium Propionibacterium acnes, but do not affect beneficial species like coagulase-negative staphylococci. In addition, it could also be demonstrated that a prebiotic product line for treatment of inflamed (or acne prone) skin showed the predicted effects on the microflora composition in a first in vivo trial, i.e. decrease of Propionibacterium acnes at a constant level of total bacteria. After 3 weeks, the microflora of 91% of the volunteers had been rebalanced in this way. Furthermore, these formulations have been shown to exhibit excellent skin compatibility compared to an antibacterial product. Thus, prebiotic substances have the potential to provide a gentle and sustainable alternative to undirected antibacterial ingredients which can cause irritation, and frequently only show short time effects. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10443 [article]

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Objective evaluation of the placebo effect in cosmetic treatments a randomized controlled study / Fernanda Distante in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 203-208 Titre : Objective evaluation of the placebo effect in cosmetic treatments a randomized controlled study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fernanda Distante, Auteur ; Valerie Pagani, Auteur ; Adriana Bonfigli, Auteur ; Luigi Rigano, Auteur ; Joachim W. Fluhr, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 203-208 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Méthode  de  bioingénierie'  'Efficacité  cosmétique'  Gluconolactone  'Age  la  peau' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A product's packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatment. A marketed anti-aging gluconolactone-based formulation was selected for the study and packaged both in a fancy sophisticated jar and in an unbranded plain container. Thirty-six female volunteers (age range: 30--55 years) with facial photoageing were selected for the study and randomly assigned to the fancy or plain packaged product. Pre-agreed messages aimed at extolling the product's cosmetic effects accompanied delivery of the fancy-packaged product to panellists. The given product was applied to the face twice a day for 8 weeks. Instrumental measurements of the skin colour (a* and L* parameter), skin capacitance, skin tensile properties (R0, R2, R6), skin thickness and skin microrelief parameters (Ra and Rz) were taken at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks of use. Clinical and subjective evaluations were also carried out at each control visit. Moreover, the amount of cream consumed during usage was calculated by weighing the given jars at each visit. Statistical analysis of the data obtained showed a significant improvement in all instrumental parameters for both groups (‘fancy’ and ‘plain’ packaging), although no significant differences were detected between the two groups at any time. The improvement was higher in the ‘plain’ group for most instrumental parameters except for micro-relief parameters where the outcome was better in the ‘fancy’ group. Promotion of facial muscle relaxation deriving from the application of the fancy-packaged cream could be a possible explanation for this finding. Also the product's efficacy and sensory properties were perceived with a higher positive impact in the fancy group. The better performance of the plain packaging group could be related to daily application of the ‘proper’ amount of cream. In fact, this group consumed a larger amount of cream than the ‘fancy’ group. These results show that a true placebo effect cannot be induced by packaging characteristics, although they can slightly influence the degree of the expected skin benefits in different ways. Moreover, proper daily dosage of the product appears to be a key factor in improving the biophysical skin properties related to anti-ageing and restoring effects. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10444 [article]

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Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept / Thomas Rudolph in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 211-216 Titre : Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur ; Philipp Bühle, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Karl-August Reiffen, Auteur ; Herwig Buchholz, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 211-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Anti-âge'  Photoprotection  'Commande  UV  réglable' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ideally, anti-(photo)ageing concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehaviour of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UVA absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on-demand benefit of a non-UV-absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV-absorbing equivalent upon light exposure. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10445 [article]

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A non-destructive method for assessing hair interior and surface damage by near infrared spectroscopy / Yuta Miyamae in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 219-225 Titre : A non-destructive method for assessing hair interior and surface damage by near infrared spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuta Miyamae, Auteur ; Yumika Yamakawa, Auteur ; Yukihiro Ozaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 219-225 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Analyse  non  destructive'  Cheveu  'Dommages  chimiques'  'Spectroscopie  infrarouge  proche'  'Traitement  chimique'  'Ondulation  permanente'  Blanchiment  de  composant  principal'  'États  santé' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This paper reports a non-destructive method for evaluating hair interior and surface damage based on near-infrared (NIR) diffuse reflectance (DR) spectroscopy. It is important to know the extent of chemical damage in the interior and surface proteins of the hair in order to choose an appropriate restoration agent or chemical treatment. Unfortunately, though there are many simple and non-destructive methods for evaluating the hair surface, the existing evaluation methods for monitoring chemical changes in the interior proteins are very complicated and destructive. Therefore, we have attempted to develop a new non-destructive method to evaluate the damage of the hair interior and surface simultaneously by using NIR-DR spectroscopy. The key to this study was the combined application of NIR-DR spectroscopy and principal component analysis to development of a method for the evaluation of hair damage and finding the most suitable wavenumber region (5060—4500 cm-1) for this evaluation. In this study, we developed a new evaluation method that can indicate hair interior and surface damage conditions induced by chemical treatments in a simple, rapid, non-destructive manner based on NIR-DR using a fibre probe on hair. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10446 [article]

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4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol : a new, highly efficient lightening agent / Gabriele Vielhaber in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 227-234 Titre : 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol : a new, highly efficient lightening agent Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriele Vielhaber, Auteur ; Gerhard Schmaus, Auteur ; karin jacobs, Auteur ; Helge Franke, Auteur ; Sabine Lange, Auteur ; Martina Herrmann, Auteur ; Holger Joppe, Auteur ; Oskar Koch, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 227-234 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Allègement  de  peau'  Tyrosinase  'Cellules  mélanome  B16'  'Modélisation  d'épiderme  en  3D'  'Etudes  in  vivo' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is an increasing world-wide demand for skin lightening active ingredients. Many common lightening ingredients on the market are either unsafe or ineffective at low concentrations. We therefore screened a series of hydroxy-stilbene derivatives for tyrosinase inhibitory activity. By chemical synthesis, the structures were optimized for efficacy and stability. The final candidate, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol, was found to be stable and to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase 22 times more effectively than kojic acid. In an assay with B16V melanoma cells, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was the most potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis with an IC50 of 2 μM among the compounds investigated. The lightening effect of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was not due to cytotoxicity as proved by an MTT assay on B16V cells. On pigmented 3D epidermis models, 0.1% of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol led to an almost complete suppression of melanin synthesis after 14 days of incubation. Finally, an in vivo test on Asian subjects proved that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol efficiently lightens human skin at 0.5% dosage. Optimal results are achieved when 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is applied in formulations with low oil content. In summary, we have demonstrated that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is a potent, stable and safe skin lightener. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10448 [article]

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