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PERSONAL CARE EUROPE / Taylor, Josh . Vol. 9, N° 1Mention de date : 02/2016Paru le : 27/01/2016 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierGeographic link to efficiency of Helichrysum italicum / Géraldine Lemaire in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
[article]
Titre : Geographic link to efficiency of Helichrysum italicum Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Géraldine Lemaire, Auteur ; Virginie Lemaire, Auteur ; Malvina Olivero, Auteur ; Elodie Dugas, Auteur ; Elisabeth Devilard, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 23-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Etudes comparatives
Huiles essentielles
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Helichrysum italicum is a flowering plant of the Asteraceae family. The plant produces essential oil from its blossoms which is used for medicinal purposes including anti-inflammatory, fungicidal and astringent properties. In addition, it soothes burns and raw chapped skin. In order to find other properties for cosmetic uses, mainly to prevent skin ageing, we compared chemical composition and efficacy of Helichrysum italicum essential oils coming from different geographical origins : Corsica and Balkan.
By chromatography analysis, we showed that the composition of the Corsican oil is dominated by neryl acetate, while the Balkan one features "alpha"-pinene and "alpha"-caryophyllene and the relative abundance of the corresponding constituents is significantly different according to the origin. In addition, using cDNA array, we demonstrated that genes related to skin barrier and cohesion show higher expression in skin samples treated with the Corsican oil than in those treated with the Balkan oil. This study demonstrates that the Corsican essential oil could be more efficient than the Balkan one in promoting skin function and hydration.Note de contenu : - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Chemical composition of Balkan and Corsican essential oils
- EPIDERMAL DIFFERENTIATION COMPLEX (EDC) CLUSTER : UP-REGULATED GENES : Figure 1 - Table 1 : Chemical composition of the essential oils of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica and Balkan - Table 2 : Genes up-regulated by Corsican or Balkan Helichrysum italicum essential oils.
- TABLES : 1. Chemical composition of the essential oils of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica and Balkan - 3. Genes up-regulated by Corsican or Balkan Helychrysum italicum essential oilsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u-POmQ7jIADxZffWAuPBr1cncq5tmjG1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25601
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Ingredients focus : men's grooming products / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Ingredients focus : men's grooming products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 27-28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Produits de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Men's grooming has steadily become a more significant area of the industry over the past few years. Several times in the past it has benn touted as being the next big thing, but in fact has flattered to deceive. However there are now signs that men are increasingly taking more interest in the products they use, and even more importantly, making the purchase themselves.
As a result, products traditionally targeted at women such as serums and eye creams are now finding their way into men's bathroom cabinets, opening up whole new markets.
Following is an overview of some the ingredients available on the market that can a key part in men's grooming formulations.Note de contenu : - Skin care
- Hair lossEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yZHXwrYKJfXKWV6nGsa7Pk5pmMaFn3iS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25602
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Formulating for beards and moustaches / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Formulating for beards and moustaches Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 30-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barbe et moustache -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Exfoliation
Huiles et graisses végétales
Produits de beauté masculinsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years sporting a beard or moustache has returned to be fashionable in the mainstream. With the male grooming sector continuing to see good worldwide growth, demand for high quality beard and moustache products has inevitably increased. Beard oils have traditionally been little more than sweet almond oil and beard/moustache styling products which are largely beeswax-rich solid waxes. We are regularly asked for advice on how to fromulate modern and higher performance beard and moustache products, so the aim of this short article is to discuss some of the key considerations in designing such fomrulations, with some suggestions of ingredients we have found to be ideal during our own development work. Note de contenu : - Beard oils
- Moustaches styling
- Tip for beards and moustaches : exfoliationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14yRIrnHI7QxseVo9SB5wItMHWEccAQ13/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25603
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations / Martina Heldermann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 33-34 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cires
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Essais (technologie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits capillaires
Produits de beauté masculinsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In particular the result of improved wet combability indicates that wax emulsions work in rinse-off hair care products such as conditioners and masks too. They give a formulation a non-stick, natural touch with a rich consistency and a perfect softness. Furthermore thanks to their low viscosity they can be used for cold process as well which is important especially for gels or sprayable liquids. If used in hot process, Kahlemulsions are post-added during cooling. They are not sensitive to shear force as they have very small particles. Kahlemulsions have strong hold with outstanding accentuating and remolding properties due to their soft and flexible film forming. The used emulsifier supports formulation stability and eases washing off. Formulations with Kahlemulsions are nontacky and get feather light, innovative textures. They are compatible with all typically used hair styling and conditioning ingredients but not combinable with alcohol at concentrations above 5%. Note de contenu : - Consumer need
- Tests
- Formulation 1: Hair styling cream formulationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FidfxgTNXQqewyuvYzzJ61bY72SuKVjm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25612
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High-perfomance styling products with sustainability / Melissa Vitale in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : High-perfomance styling products with sustainability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Melissa Vitale, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Mousse (chimie)
Polymères
Produits capillaires
Produits coiffantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and formulators are personal care products continue to prefer more natural and sustainable ingredient options, but will not compormise on price or performance for natural ingredients. In hair styling, longevity and volume are the two most important attributes to European consumers. Many hair styling products are designed specifically to help and volume, with some claiming to add 95% more volume or even plump up hair by 39%, thanks to collagen (as an example). Between 35% and 51% of product users in Europe's Big 5 markets - France, Germany, Italy, Spain and the UK - look to add volume to their hair.
In addition, many products carry claims of lasting all day or 24 hours, while several carry claims they will last two to three days, withstanding various element such as high humidity. Producers often use adjectives such as "ultra-resistant" or "Indestructible" to imply more durability to products. Nearly half (47%) of launches in Europe are for products claimed to be long-lasting, exceeding the global average of 44%.
The "sweet spot", then, for formulators is to create a hair styling product that provides maximum hold and volumising performance over a long period of time, and also benefits from a friendlier label. While claims of "natural" ingredients are more prominent and generate a higher level of interest in the US, it benefits producers worldwide to anticipate global interest rather than react to it.Note de contenu : - Extra hold
- Clear gel properties and performance
- Volume evaluation
- Subjective properties
- Mousse properties
- Ingredient compatibility
- TABLES : 1. Gel property comparison - 2. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer vs. PVP K-90 gel - 3. Styling/conditioning mousse dry properties
- Formulation : Extreme hold sustainable styling gelEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cmnXBpyf_Uh9VZzyHnNLvaAt0Yb2VIsJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25613
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The rise of deep eutectics from nature to cosmetics / Mickael Laguerre in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : The rise of deep eutectics from nature to cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mickael Laguerre, Auteur ; Alexis Lavaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 45-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Développement durable
EutectiquesUn eutectique est un mélange de deux corps purs qui fond et se solidifie à température constante, contrairement aux mélanges habituels. Il se comporte en fait comme un corps pur du point de vue de la fusion.
C'est aussi le point du diagramme (mélange avec une proportion donnée) pour lequel le mélange est à sa température minimale en phase liquide. Cette température est propre à chaque mélange.
Extraction par solvant
Ressources renouvelables
Solvants écologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Deep eutectic solvents probably evolved very early in the history of living organisms and may reflect a fundamental component of the chemistry of life. Scientists are now rediscovering all kinds of molecule combinations engineered by nature into these unique mixtures. Harnessing these bio-inspired solvents for eco-extraction purposes is one of the most exciting ways to recover phytoactive molecules using the same strategy adopted by plants for their survival.
The depletion of fossil resources, combined with changes in the regulatory, environmental and toxicological frameworks for solvents, puts heavy selective pressure on the development of alternatives to petro-based organic solvents. Finding sustainable and eco-friendly extraction technologies capable of producing extracts with novel phytochemical profiles and enhanced efficacy has become increasingly important.Note de contenu : - Andrew Abbott's discovery of a new type of solvents
- Do plant cells contain liquids other than water and lipids ?
- Deep eutectic solvents : a game-changer in botanical extractionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1amWm7VNw5SrICTGTRuT67Lw9dqe-3UJo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25619
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Néré seeds : a sustainable source for skin hydration / Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Néré seeds : a sustainable source for skin hydration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely, Auteur ; David Boudier, Auteur ; Isabelle Cruz, Auteur ; Géraldine Bon, Auteur ; Céline Masson, Auteur ; Delphine Laporte, Auteur ; Solen Le Davadic, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 52-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise
Barrière cutanée
Biomolécules actives
Chaine logistique
Chimie biomimétique
Cosmétiques
Développement durable
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Néré et constituantsParkia biglobosa, ou néré (nɛrɛ en bambara), est une espèce d'arbre de la famille des Mimosaceae, ou des Fabaceae, sous-famille des Mimosoideae selon la classification phylogénétique originaire des zones sahéliennes et soudaniennes.
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and, increasingly, the global cosmetics market are currently focusing pn hydrating skin care products containing natural ingredients of controlled origin. Silab has responded to current market demands by creating a responsible, traced and controlled supply chain for néré seeds in Burkina Faso.
Just as the tree has developed an effective strategy to maintain a constant supply of water in spite of an arid environment, Nerenyl (INCI name: Saccharide Hydrolysate; SH), a natural, eco-designed and biomimetic cosmetic active ingredient, boosts skin hydration.Note de contenu : - Description of the néré tree
- Local action
- From harvest to packaging : a standardised process
- From néré seeds to the biomimetic and hydrating ingredient
- Experimental method, results and discussion : Saving three days for restoring an optimal barrier function - Complexion radiance restoredEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10VXYJlqHbaPttl3VqN-Y-xinwYlxx6o-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25621
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Challenges of formulating with natural emulsifiers / Caroline Recardo in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Challenges of formulating with natural emulsifiers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Caroline Recardo, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 56-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Esters
Esters de sucres
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As all formulators know, the challenge of creating an emulsion in cosmetic science is to achieve maximum stability combined with superior sensoriality. It is not enough to make a totally stable cream if the rheology or the feel of the product is wrong. Formulating with natural emulsifier systems brings its own challenges ; in a later section we will look at the advantages and disadvantages of natural versus synthetic emulsifiers and the specific issues that have to be addressed when using natural emulsifiers. Note de contenu : - TYPES OF EMULSION : Standard emulsion - Lamellar emulsion - Microemulsion - The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance system (HLB)
- COSMOS DEFINITION OF NATURAL
- TYPES OF NATURAL EMULSIFIER
- SUCROSE ESTERS : Table 1 : Synthetic versus natural emulsifiers - Simple cream 1
- POLYGLYCEROL ESTERS : Simple cream 2
- QUILLAJA EXTRACT
- STABILISING NATURAL FORMULATIONS
- Formulation : 3 Simple creamsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JAyZGL8NJYNLhC7DWU_bsfB7SGEuXSpF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25622
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Emulsifier system influences O/W emulsion preservation / Alexander Thiemann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Emulsifier system influences O/W emulsion preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander Thiemann, Auteur ; Wilfried Petersen, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 60-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie)
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The emulsifier system showed a pronounced influence on the antimicrobial performance of a surfactant and organic acids based preservation system. Emulsifier blends comprising hydrocarbon moieties showed a negative influence on the antimicrobial performance of the tested perservation system. Anionic emulsifiers have a tendency to support the preservation activity better than non-ionic emulsifiers.
It is important to understand that most ingredients have an influence on the product preservation. This influence can be favourable or detrimental. It cannot be assumed that even a slight change of a formulation or the variation of the dosage of a component does not alter the result of the preservation performance. Challenge tests need to be performed in order to proof sufficient preservation after each change in a formulation composition.Note de contenu : - Table 1. General composition of the O/W emulsions
- Table 2. Emulsifier dosageEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGK5ZqXB2E7L9AYtMz7Y4sbb7Rz6M2ob/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25623
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Modified baker's yeast cell wall active rebalances skin / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
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Titre : Modified baker's yeast cell wall active rebalances skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Jasmin Lozza, Auteur ; Esther Belser, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 64-67 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allergies
Barrière cutanée
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Hydratation
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The high prevalence of allergies, for example skin eczema, in the industrialised world can be explained by an unbalanced immune system because the defence reaction against allergens involves overactivation of the T helper cell Th2 pathway. This causes immunoglobulin E antibody production and ultimately leads to histamine production and an allergic reaction, characterised in the skin by dryness, redness and itchiness. Suppression of the Th2 pathway by Th1 could alleviate allergic reactions. Treatment with a new modified cosmetic active derived from baker’s yeast cell wall, MgCM-Glucan, leads to a suppression of Th2-activated allergic response. Additionally, MgCMGlucan improves the skin barrier, smoothness and hydration for an increased wellbeing of the skin. Note de contenu : - THE TH1/TH2 STORY
- CHARACTERISTICS OF ECZEMATOUS SKIN
- MgCM-GLUCAN – DESIGNED TO REBALANCE THE SKIN
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : IgE release - IL-8 release - Staphylococcus aureus adhesion to reconstructed human epidermis - Clinical studies
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Reduction of Th2 response in atopic dermatitis models - Impaired binding of bacteria to the skin - Restoration of skin barrier, hydration and wellbeingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ksy2OneABxyJTOyCczYQDIgvHn6p72EN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25626
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