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GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE / Probert, Tim . Vol. 22, N° 10Mention de date : 11/2021Paru le : 08/11/2021 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierNatural rheology modifiers to replace microplastics in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Natural rheology modifiers to replace microplastics Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 6-7 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Argile
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Microplastiques
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pure hectorite clay is a 100 natural ingredient according to ISO 16128 and complies with the COSMOS standard. Due to its inert, inorganic nature, it is without doubt a great alternative to synthetic polymers, which may be classified as liquid microplastics that are harmful to the environment. A light organic modification allows it to transform the benefits into the oil phase yet maintaining an incredibly high natural profile. Note de contenu : - Hectorite - a natural alternative
- How hectorite works
- Benefits for O/W emulsions
- Benefits for W/O emulsions
- Benefits in sun careEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmijtXCShYrGNnKauUJpjdFTeVmlbg2v/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36918
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Cosmetics regulatory update for the EU / Martin Perry in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Cosmetics regulatory update for the EU Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Perry, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 16-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne
Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article looks at recent changes to the European Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. It follows on from the article that appeared in the June 2020 edition of Personal Care Europe. It looks at notifications the European Commission (EC) has made to the World Trade Organisation (WTO) for future changes to the regulation, then concludes by looking at the opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) on nanomaterials. Note de contenu : - New EU Regulations : Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/1682) - Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/1683 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/1099
- WTO notifications : Zinc pyrithione - Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate - Butylphenyl methyl propional - Methyl-N-methylanthranilate
- NanomaterialsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YGymj3RClGgYQL9eXay4qLHy-zdLRkub/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36919
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Vitamin C in skin care applications : An overview / Cuross Bakhtiar in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Vitamin C in skin care applications : An overview Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Cuross Bakhtiar, Auteur ; Iftikhar Khan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 21-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Vitamine C
Vitamine C -- SynthèseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant molecule that can be used topically to reduce the changes associated with photoageing. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Because it is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to finding stable compounds and newer methods of delivery (lipid-based micro and nano carrier systems) of vitamin C into the dermis. Note de contenu : - Mechanism of action in dermatology
- Topical formulations of vitamin C
- Adverse reactions to topical vitamin C
- Physiology of vitamin C in skin
- Fig. 1 : L-ascorbic acid
- Fig. 2 : Plant synthesis of ascorbic acid
- Fig. 3 : Vertebrate synthesis of ascorbic acid
- Fig. 4 : Formation of erythrulose from ascorbic acid
- Fig. 5 : Vitamin transporters & their transport mechanism in skinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HS3S4GE_DRRkOpb6EAC_rgttFu5S9gnC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36920
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The next super material : Shells from algae / Lizette Andrén in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : The next super material : Shells from algae Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lizette Andrén, Auteur ; Sofie Allert, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 26-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Biotechnologie marine
Diatomées
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The microalgal group diatoms account for 20% of global carbon fixation and produce the oxygen of every fifth breath we take. During millions of years, diatoms have evolved and survived in harsh conditions. On an expedition to the Antarctic, our co-founder, Angela Wulff, who is a professor in marine ecology, studied diatoms living inside and under the ice. A fascinating discovery that led her to believe that it would be possible to cultivate algae industrially back home in Sweden, under controlled forms. Once she had returned, she met Sofie Allert, a biotechnologist, who had developed a fascination for algae and the use of algae as a sustainable raw material in industrial applications during her bachelor thesis. Together they set out to prove that it is possible to create a sustainable and even climate positive industry with the help of algae. Note de contenu : - Climate-positive growth
- The UV light blocking and SPF boosting effect of diatomshells
- Anti-pollution tests measured by SQOOH reduction
- Anti-pollution measured by L-value
- Moisturising : Algal shells vs. HA
- Cleansing ability of algal shells
- Table : Formulation : Example formulation - Facial cream with AlgicaEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17k_A67qDphfVLgQzC7asULlh2TS66hxN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36921
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Enhancing powdered hair bleaching products / Howard Epstein in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Enhancing powdered hair bleaching products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Howard Epstein, Auteur ; Victor P. Lo Riggio, Auteur ; Melisa Campoccia, Auteur ; José Luis D. Eramo, Auteur ; Sebastià n Lo Riggio, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 31-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de dommages (matériaux)
Cheveux -- Teinture
Cosmétiques
Décoloration
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Liposomes
Oxydation
Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The secret behind a brilliant hair colour transformation is the bleaching powder. Hair bleaching is a chemical dye technique that strips colour from hair. Chemical agents used during the hair bleaching process break down pigmentation through oxidation. Sections of the hair are hydrolysed and the protective lipid layer of the hair cuticle is destroyed. This results in a dry, brittle hair that is more porous. Hair strength and elasticity is diminished.With respect to dry hair dye treatments, the best results are obtained with optimally formulated powdered hair dye formulations. Note de contenu : - Optimising powdered hair dye formulations
- Efficacy studies : Evaluating hair damage associated with bleaching-scanning electron microscopy - Evaluating oxidative damage to hair - Measuring the ability of the powdered liposome to reduce traction resistance
- Table : Base formulation for testEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGzQNG6_nvOrfBd-tgg5qIYP7Z8eJWPw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36922
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Designing new anti-pollution cosmetics / Annette Mehling in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Designing new anti-pollution cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Annette Mehling, Auteur ; Petra Schulte, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pollution is the introduction of contaminants into the natural environment that endanger human health and/or the environment. It can take the form of chemical substances or energy, such as noise, heat or light.
Pollutants, the components of pollution, can be either foreign substances or energies, or naturally occurring contaminants. From cars and industrial emissions to dust storms, pollen and smoke inside the home, air pollution poses a major threat to our health and the climate. According to the WHO, 90% of us are exposed to it.Note de contenu : - Tests for PM
- From ingredients to formulations
- Fig. 1 : Number of new skin care launches with anti-pollution claims, 2016-2020
- Fig. 2 : Anti-adhesion
- Fig. 3 : Anti-penetration effect of polymers
- Table 1 : Formulation : Naturecare anti-pollution matrix
- Table 2 : Formulation : 'Don't let the dirt in' shielding skin creamEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uLnjj_S1gYeEps-BbWeSAyroWGiH5-MO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36923
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hair care with 100% plant-based ingredients / Ophélie Bourgon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Hair care with 100% plant-based ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ophélie Bourgon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 41-43 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amidons
Biocosmétiques
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits capillaires
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is no longer one hair product that works for all hair types, but the COVID-19 crisis has shifted the focus from appearance to care as consumers re-evaluated their hair needs, and they now look into the ‘skinification’ (i.e., scalp care and health) of the hair care offer.
The hair care market is resilient. According to Mintel GNPD, hair products (shampoo, conditioner, treatment and styling products) accounted for 12% of global beauty and personal care launches in 2020, the same as in 2019.
Health is going to be the key driver for the coming years, for both scalp and hair. Moreover, in the different regions of the world, 'natural' is also a fundamental word for consumers. In addition to health, embracing diversity and providing multifunctional ingredients will also drive the market for years to come.Note de contenu : - Claims depending on categories
- Hydroxypropyl starch
- Scalp care & anti-dandruff benefits
- Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate
- New optionsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a01RXANdS6QeG3XFjSfGhDS7BOySUPKA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36924
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible At the limits of the sense of smell / Lika van Genderen in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : At the limits of the sense of smell Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lika van Genderen, Auteur ; Romy Jacobs, Auteur ; Rita Ribau Domingues, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 46-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Mesure -- Instruments
Odorat
Olfactométrie
Parfums
Perception olfactiveIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have all experienced at some time, shortly after the first raindrops fall, that characteristic and evocative smell known technically as petrichor; a combination of words from Greek mythology, ‘petri’ (rock) and ‘ichor’ (the ethereal blood of the gods). Petrichor is often described as the smell of wet stone, but the odour does not come from the stone minerals themselves. Layers of volatiles can accumulate on the stone surfaces, for example those emitted by microbes and plants, and are modified by the atmosphere. These volatiles are often not well perceivable, unless we put our noses up close. Raindrops can drive them out of their stone surfaces and make them better noticeable. One of the organic molecules enhanced by rain, whose smell we colloquially describe as ‘wet earth’, is the so called 4,8a-dimethyl-decahydronaphthalene4a-ol. This odorant also known as geosmin comes from the Greek, meaning ‘aroma of the earth’ because of its smell. It is a hydrocarbon belonging to the terpene family produced by some soil bacteria and fungi, mainly belonging to the genera Streptomyces and Penicillium which, among many other chemical compounds, also synthesise antibiotics as fundamental to mankind as streptomycin and penicillin.
The ability of our olfactory system to perceive geosmin is surprising. Some studies indicate that we can detect it when it is present at a concentration of 0.0000065 parts per million, in terms of volume of air (ppm v/v). To give an idea, this is equivalent to diluting the contents of a teaspoon of coffee in about 300 Olympic-size swimming pools. Some researchers have suggested that this heightened sensitivity and fascination with its scent is the result of our evolution, when our ancestors lived on the African savannah and the smell of geosmin served to stimulate the search for water.
This olfactory acuity is far superior to the ability to detect geosmin by analytical techniques in the laboratory, and makes its unwanted presence problematic. In drinking water, it confers an unpleasant musty odour, and can be responsible for some undesirable aromas in wine when grapes have been attacked by certain fungi. But the ‘earthy’ note provided by geosmin has also been used in many perfumes, such as Me Paraissait Une Ombre (Etat Libre d’Orange), La Vamp (Bouge), or Labaie 19 (Le Labo).Note de contenu : - The olfactory detection limit and its measurement
- Ground-breaking knowledge of the odour thresholdEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11262yCZACU3jXFvnAGyfKizO7ILTCfRs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36925
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Efficacy testing & vegan ethics are compatible / Angela Davies in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Efficacy testing & vegan ethics are compatible Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Angela Davies, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 50-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire
Produits vegan
Tests de sécuritéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The vegan movement has certainly gathered momentum over the past few years. So much so that, today, it could be considered far more than a trend. Around the world, an increasing number of people are making conscious decisions about the goods they purchase, and how they purchase them.
The demand for 'sustainable', 'cruelty free', and 'vegan' products continues to rise – pushing brands across a variety of industries to make more ethical decisions. This has not always been the case. Until fairly recently, being vegan was considered to be a niche lifestyle choice, mostly confined to dietary requirements.
However today, the growing vegan movement is impacting more than just the food and drink industry. Over the past few years, people have become more mindful of what they put into – and onto – their bodies more than ever before, which has led to an explosion in the number of vegan beauty and personal care products on the market.Note de contenu : - Safety testing procedures
- Vegan microbial limits & challenge test
- The future of beautyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dIXqAsb3O_oWYKLeMdZ1dq0mspkgjaMZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36926
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A journey to vegan testing in a family-owned company / Sara Robb in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : A journey to vegan testing in a family-owned company Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sara Robb, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 53-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Stabilité
Essais (technologie)
Produits veganIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vegan cosmetics are the fastest growing vegan market and also the fastest growing sector in the personal care industry. In the US alone, the vegan personal care market is already worth over $4.1 billion/year. By 2025 its estimated that the global market will be worth over $20.8 billion/year.
With such a growing demand globally for vegan personal care products, more brands are looking at having vegan ranges and some are transitioning to fully vegan brands. The option of having accredited microbiology testing is essential for them. Companies should not have to choose between being able to sell their products to retailers that insist on accreditation or using microbiological culture media containing animal products.
Although the vegan cosmetic market is booming, testing without using animal products is still not available on a large scale. Even with the newly available vegan alternatives to the standard culture media, many labs shy away from offering vegan testing due to it being ‘commercially unviable’. This article details the journey of a laboratory whose passion for the vegan lifestyle and love of animals and the environment prompted them to start the process of providing a full suite of accredited vegan microbiology testing.Note de contenu : - Moving to vegan
- Current media
- Three key tests : Stability and compatibility testing - QC/batch release testingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bUUWkz36O15rPb1Tak80YBaXXm6_bR0a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36927
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Novel in-line rheology measurement technology / Thomas Machin in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Novel in-line rheology measurement technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Machin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 56-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Rhéologie -- Appareils et matériels
RhéométrieIndex. décimale : 532.05 Mécanique des fluides et des liquides - Dynamique (cinétique et cinématique) Résumé : Rheology is defined as the study of the deformation and flow of matter.1 The rheology of a fluid system governs both in-process efficiency and final product quality. It is therefore critical to the manufacturing of liquid personal care products, such as shampoo and liquid soap.
For example, if a product is too thick, problems may arise with pumping and packaging; too thin, and it may run straight through the consumer’s hands. Getting the rheology just right can be challenging from a manufacturing perspective, but is central to the product’s success
In the manufacture of these products, conventional rheometry testing typically takes place off-line, with sampling required from the process stream. This can take approximately ten minutes (depending on the number of measurement points required), not including the time needed to obtain the sample, send it to a QC lab and conduct internal checks.
Once analysed, if the product does not meet specifications, it often has to be scrapped or re-worked, resulting in large volumes of waste being generated, or excess energy being consumed. It has been estimated, that the annual product loss in liquid personal care products globally is the equivalent to two million bath tubs (around 320 million litres). A large part of this could be reduced through the use of in-line rheology measurements.
The rheological properties from off-line measurements are often also considered, with assumptions, as directly applicable to real process flows. However, this approach only provides a retrospective characterisation of a fluid sample and the measurement does not account for any changes to the sample when extracted from a process, such as cooling down and gelling or settling. It is often therefore considered unsatisfactory.
As in situ measurements are conducted within the flow environment, they deliver a direct, real-time rheology measurement, which provides essential, accurate information to plant managers and QC professionals about the product as it is being processed. Due to the critical nature of rheology in processing liquid personal care products, the ability to monitor rheology in-line, in real time could elevate rheometry from a QC tool at the process end-point to one which is able to control and optimise processes and material structures.
To realise this goal, Machin et al. developed a novel, in-pipe, tomographic measurement capable of obtaining real-time rheological information of process fluids within pipe flows.2 This is termed electrical resistance rheometry (ERR). Its ability to predict rheological parameters was validated at the industrial pilot plant of a multinational manufacturer.
The trial focussed upon the characterisation of a wide range of industrial personal and homecare products, including shampoos, fabric washes, conditioner and body washes. The aims were to compare rheological parameters obtained from ERR directly with off-line rotational rheometry and to determine its suitability to operate as an in-line quality control technique.En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m_RvvO5WLUyrfixS2BhxScphm5GRyQnl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36928
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible New hair care formulations for a busy lifestyle / Rosemary Puls in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : New hair care formulations for a busy lifestyle Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rosemary Puls, Auteur ; Heike Riedemann, Auteur ; Julia Stuermer, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 61-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Shampooings secsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Water covers 70% of the Earth’s surface but only 0.3% of water resources can be practically used. By 2025, two-thirds of the world’s population may be at risk of water scarcity. Each person directly consumes around 140 litres/day of water, 40% of it in the bathroom. The Energy Saving Trust reports that the greatest opportunities for saving water can be found in the bathroom, with showering being the largest water user in the home.
Water scarcity is a global issue that is now being reflected in consumers’ choices. Conscious consumer behavior is helping to support this market development. Studies suggest that 22% of UK consumers have changed their bathroom routine to use less water, while 34% of Italian consumers are interested in double concentrated bath or shower products.
Personal care products that require less or even no water are becoming more popular. Avoiding a daily shower with no-rinse products is an option consumer are considering. Thus, 45% of US soap, bath, and shower users stated that they would be interested in no-rinse products. Norinse formulations can be used without the need for water. The product is simply left in the hair and rinsed off later. These formulations can also absorb any excess oils.
For similar reasons, dry shampoo product launches have been increasing in the last five years, driven by consumer demand and this is not limited to hair styling products. Dry shampoos have traditionally been used to provide the extra volume required for special occasions. Most consumers will be familiar with their drawbacks, however. The high powder content of these products causes itchiness and leaves the scalp feeling dry. They can also be inconvenient, requiring additional brushing to remove the excess powder.
When convenience and comfort are sacrificed, consumers are left feeling uncomfortable and selfconscious. Avoiding water consumption is only part of the issue. Products still need to perform. Real behavioural change that will last a lifetime will only happen if this is the case.
Spherelix 10® (INCI : Hydrated Silica), hereafter referred to as spherical hydrated silica, is a key ingredient that Evonik supplies for use in dry shampoos. It improves their performance, making daily use possible without the disadvantages traditionally associated with dry shampoo.Note de contenu : - A naturally derived product
- Manufacturing process
- Testing
- Applications
- Lifestyle & personal care productsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bu6iQV5G9czs5wXlZWDeTXLoNU4yAv2b/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36929
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Addressing ROS naturally in the scalp / James V. Gruber in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Addressing ROS naturally in the scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur ; Ezgi Todurge, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 65-67 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Antioxydants
Cosmétiques
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Espèces réactives de l'oxygène
Pollution -- Effets physiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dermal papillae cells are important hair growth cells that reside at the base of every hair follicle. They are responsible for the cyclical growth of scalp hair, managing the transformation of hair from the resting stage (catagen) to the active growth stage (anagen). The growth of human scalp hair is a complex, high-energy process, which creates a zone of excessive reactive oxygen species called the ‘ring of fire’. As the scalp continues to remain a key area of focus by hair care brands, innovative solutions that can help control the formation of follicle damaging ROS species—driven primarily by environmental threats—are highly sought after. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : The ring of fire
- Fig. 2 : ROS formation due to exposure of DP cells to 100 µg/ml of urban dust
- Fig. 3 : ROS formation due to exposure of DP cells to 100 mJ/cm2 of UVB radiation
- Fig. 4 : ROS formation due to exposure of DP cells to 13.5 mJ/cm2 of blue light for 30 minutes & 27 mJ/cm2 of blue light for 60 minutesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BJdJWQw_TqoX48cbtI6YQ8BHBKtbx7RS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36930
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Claim support for anti-pollution cosmetics / Andrew Warmington in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Claim support for anti-pollution cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrew Warmington, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 69-70 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Antioxydants
Atmosphère -- Pollution
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pollution -- Effets physiologiques
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Air pollution, its effects on the skin, the products being made to address this and the claims their producers can make are all major subjects and are in constant flux, noted Stephan Bielfeldt, director of science and innovation at Proderm in a recent webinar. In fact, the WHO published new sharpened air quality guidelines on the day before the webinar took place.
There has been a visible ‘corona effect’ during the COVID-19 lockdown and the consequent reduction in the burning of fuels in industry and transport. Mean nitrogen dioxide levels in Madrid, Milan and Rome, for example, fell by about 45% from 2019 to April 2020; in Paris, it was 54%. This, however, is a shortterm and extraordinary effect, Bielfeldt said. Clearly pollution will return; the question is by how much.
The major components of air pollution are:
Toxic gases: sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides (NOx), volatile organic compounds (VOCs) & photochemically derived ozone
Particulate matter (PM), mainly of <2.5 µm diameter that can reach the alveoli of the lungs. PM is also a carrier of organic compounds that can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as metals, notably copper, that catalyse the oxidation of lipids and proteins in exposed tissues.
Indoor pollutants, such as smoke from indoor combustion of coal, wood and petrol, plus cigarette smoke, both of which generate toxic gases and PM.
The main hazards to skin from air pollution comes from two sources: ROS, notably superoxide (O2), hydroxyl (OH), ozone (O3) singlet oxygen (1 O2) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), which form free radicals that can interact with many molecules in the human body; and particles loaded with VOCs and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).Note de contenu : - How can anti-pollution claims be supported ?
- ESR studies ex vivoIn vivo findings
- In vivo human study designs
- Fig. 1 : Effects of H1 on free radical formation
- Fig. 2 : Effects of tocopherol on free radical formation
- Fig. 3 : Effects of EDTA on free radical formation vs. control
- Fig. 4 : Induced free radicals compared to no UV irradiation
- Fig. 5 : In vivo induction of malondialdehyde by cigarette smolke
- Fig. 6 : In vivo induction of SQOOH by cigarette smokeEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10dVll6Q3k6WoVBTnaW-rG4sXxhqWacil/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36931
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Formulating : The ultimate balancing act / Lou Graydon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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Titre : Formulating : The ultimate balancing act Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lou Graydon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the age of misinformation, there is a myriad of articles, blogs and social media posts claiming that cosmetic ingredient ‘X’ is terrible but ‘Y’ is perfect. Cosmetic scientists around the globe baulk at these claims as very rarely is anything so black and white, particularly when it comes to skin care.
In fact, an individual’s skin care needs constantly change depending on diet, hormones and even the time of year.1 What skin actually requires is a balance of a variety of ingredients to target those needs – there is no universal serum that will give everyone perfect skin.
Cosmetic formulations themselves are mixtures of different materials carefully balanced to provide the best stability, aesthetics and texture possible. Arguably the most important category of ingredients for personal care is emulsifiers. However, when formulating a cosmetics product there is a lot more to consider than just the ingredients.
Sustainability and environmental impact are at the top of nearly everyone’s agenda, with many claims being made about eco-friendly practices, but in reality, the issues we face are enormously complex. As with skin care, there is no single method of reducing environmental impact and, in many cases, choosing to focus on one area of sustainability can have consequences elsewhere
This article discusses the conflicts, compromises and trade-offs that formulators encounter every day, whether related to ingredient performance, naturality, sustainability or consumer perception.Note de contenu : - Sun care
- Naturals vs synthetics
- Local vs global sourcing
- Aqueous vs anhydrousEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mz2sqXBJXshFFCo2UdnFyLLqybJYAROJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36932
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Fucoidan : A future in balancing skin microbiome / Krutika Sen in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Fucoidan : A future in balancing skin microbiome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Krutika Sen, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 77-79 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Anti-inflammatoires
Antiâge
Antioxydants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Fucoïdanesfamille de polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques.
Un fucoïdane, ou une fucoïdine, est un fucane complexe qui appartient à la famille des polymères hétéropolydispersés à base de fucose et d'autres oses ou acides uroniques. Les polymères hétéropolydispersés sont des macromolécules dont les fractions peuvent toujours être séparées en sous-fractions et ainsi de suite jusqu'à aboutir théoriquement à la séparation des molécules.
Malgré cette diversité en taille, de composition et de structure de chacune des molécules, les fractions obtenues avec une méthode donnée ont pourtant des propriétés physico-chimiques toujours parfaitement reproductibles.
Les fucoïdanes tirent leur nom des algues du type fucus, et ils sont souvent assimilés comme des polysaccharides présents dans le wakamé ou d'autres algues brunes de mer. Des formes variantes de fucoïdane ont également été trouvées chez des espèces animales, notamment chez les concombres de mer.
Le fucoïdane est (parfois...) employé en complément alimentaire pour améliorer les échanges cellulaires et leur vitesse d'activité, avec une amélioration du système immunitaire.
(Aquaportail)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Microbiome cutané
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fucoidan is a long-chain polysaccharide found naturally in brown seaweeds. On the back of extensive immuno-modulatory, antiinflammatory, digestive health and anti-cancer research, fucoidan is increasingly being utilised in a range of dietary supplements. In recent years, mounting anti-ageing evidence has also placed this novel marine ingredient on the radar of skin care formulators.
High purity, certified organic fucoidan ingredients with global regulatory acceptance are rapidly rising to the forefront of the blue beauty movement. Not only do they tick all the right boxes in terms of sustainability and ethical sourcing but also in terms of efficacy and ease of formulation. The potential benefits of fucoidan on skin health are increasingly being reported in scientific literature and are capturing the attention of some the world’s leading skin care brands.
Fucoidan’s role in nature is to protect the seaweed against a range of external stresses, including environmental pathogens. Australian biotechnology company Marinova was the first to capture these natural benefits for topical use, launching two high purity fucoidan extracts onto the global skin care market over a decade ago. Backed by clinical evidence, Maritech® Bright, derived from Fucus vesiculosus seaweed, and Maritech Reverse, derived from Undaria pinnatifida seaweed, both offer profound antiageing properties.Note de contenu : - A brightening, anti-ageing & antioxidant combination
- Protecting & soothing properties
- Investigating skin microbiome : Promoting bacterial balance - Inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus - Maintaining Staphylococcus epidermidis - Atopic dermatitis and gene expression - Reducing periostin - A microbiome future
- Serious about sustainability
- Formulation & safetyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TIj0emgwgnWX5YnhlOyfg95AbXOjgYOH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36933
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The skin microbiome : Getting the balance right / Riccardo Sfriso in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : The skin microbiome : Getting the balance right Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Aline Hueber, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 81-83 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Microbiome cutané
Microbiote cutané -- Analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is a fine line between modifying the skin microbiome’s composition to promote healthy-looking skin and disrupting its delicate balance in a potentially detrimental way. With consumer interest in microbiome-friendly skin and personal care products growing, DSM has been exploring new approaches to restoring and preserving the natural and individual balance of skin microbiota.
Thanks to an innovative data analysis technique, we have been able to go further in identifying and classifying skin microbiota composition. We have then used this information to investigate and visualise the modulatory effect two of our skin bioactives have on key microorganisms.
Additionally, we have been exploring vitamin-based acne-care solutions and have also begun assessing personal care ingredients for microbiome-friendliness in line with a new, independent standard.Note de contenu : - New potential for skin care
- Understanding skin microbiota composition
- A new methodology for assessing changes in microbiota composition
- Study 1 : Shifts in skin microbiota after cleansing
- Study 2 : Shifts in facial skin microbiota in response to a cosmetic bioactive
- Study 3 : Respecting microbial balance in acne-prone skin
- Microbiome-friendly beauty products – a precise balanceEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f8POBE7aFRsUGY8oWCJtjpVhVOA2yyo3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36934
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Titre : Activoil Ecnidium ZRO for skin barrier function Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 85-89 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Biomolécules actives
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection cutanée
Régénération (biologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The regular use of alcohol-based gels or cleansing products is usually well-tolerated, but repeated exposure to water and other chemical agents can induce several pathophysiologic changes, such as epidermal barrier disruption, keratinocyte impairment, the subsequent release of proinflammatory cytokines, the activation of the skin’s immune system and delayed-type hypersensitivity reactions. Adverse dermatologic effects, such as excessive skin dryness, skin irritation or even contact dermatitis, can occur, especially in individuals with a history of atopic dermatitis Note de contenu : - Rancimat test
- Skin barrier function & hydration evaluatio on sanitiser application
- Skin barrier function & irritation evaluation upon surfactants exposure : Protective effect : Clinical protocol - Repairing action - clinical protocolEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lef9Pd-QaI_EWC35qvRxr99-w0_U7yNC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36935
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Activity of L(+)-lactic acid against enveloped viruses / Felix Weiher in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Activity of L(+)-lactic acid against enveloped viruses Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Felix Weiher, Auteur ; Alina Böhringer, Auteur ; Natalie Dietz, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 91-93 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens
Désinfectants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lactique, AcideL'acide lactique est un acide organique qui joue un rôle dans divers processus biochimiques. Un lactate est un sel de cet acide. Contrairement à ce que peut laisser penser son nom, l'acide lactique n'est pas présent uniquement dans le lait, mais également dans le vin, certains fruits et légumes, et dans les muscles.
L'acide lactique est un acide alpha hydroxylé, sa formule chimique est C3H6O3 et sa structure se reflète dans son nom systématique, l'acide 2-hydroxypropanoïque.
Tests d'efficacité
VirucidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Demand is increasing for efficient, yet more natural, sustainable and less hazardous active ingredients in surface and skin disinfectants. L(+)- lactic acid is one of few truly biobased active substances, being derived from renewable raw materials via fermentation and readily biodegradable. It is the ideal ingredient to improve the green profile of surface or hand disinfectants without compromising on efficacy.
This paper describes L(+)-lactic acid as an active ingredient with dual power against enveloped viruses and bacteria, with the main focus on its virucidal activity. An official EN standard test protocol was used to demonstrate the virucidal activity of Jungbunzlauer’s L(+)- lactic acid against enveloped viruses.Note de contenu : - Antiviral efficacy inspired by nature
- Virucidal formulations in demand
- Experimental part
- Results & discussion
- Regulations & safety
- Fig. 1 : Claims for virucidal activity of products
- Table 1 : Results of screening step 1 against vaccina virus (MVA, dirty conditions, 20°C)
- Table 2 : Results of full EN14476 against vaccinia virus (MVA, dirty conditions, 20°C)
- Table 3 : Formulation A for the ful EN14476 tests
- Table 4 : Results of different concentrations of formulation A in a full EN14476 against vaccinia virus (MVA, dirty conditions, 20°C)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a7B-OlAC7tI88YPiQ3S3-CjCx4JHNL0o/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36936
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22994 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Potassium cetyl phosphate in natural formulations / Swetlana Vogt in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
[article]
Titre : Potassium cetyl phosphate in natural formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Swetlana Vogt, Auteur ; Yana Bykov, Auteur ; Maximilian Franke, Auteur ; Martina Spiegel, Auteur ; Martin Husmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 94-95 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Phosphate cétylique de potassium
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau
Rhéologie
ViscositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Simple rules of science are sometimes in conflict with experimental results. Wellknown models do not always describe the mechanisms of real systems.
Potassium cetyl phosphate (PCetP) is such a material in which several rules are broken when it is used as emulsifier. HLB estimation methods1 would not predict that this anionic surfactant is an effective emulsifier. Macroemulsions based on it are remarkable in terms of their long-term stability and they show an extraordinary degree of robustness.
PCetP is neither water- nor oil-soluble as it tends to build-up natural membranes at interfaces. A synergism can be achieved when using long chain fatty alcohols as a partner. Valuable gel-like emulsions can be obtained in a natural way due to the formation of lamellar structures. This is similar to what is known about the essential role of phospholipids for living cells.
As shown in Figure 1, common anionic surfactants, like sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium oleate, are water-soluble and have an HLB value of above 20. Hence, a typical anionic surfactant is very far from being an ideal O/W emulsifier.
PCetP has a similar chemical structure. However, its solubility in water is very low and its HLB value, we have determined experimentally, is about 10.5. This is a typical value for an O/W emulsifier and differs considerably from the estimated value calculated by incremental methods. This calculation is applicable for classical emulsifiers, but is not suitable for PCetP.Note de contenu : - Liquid crystal stabilisation
- Rheological behaviour
- Water resistance
- Fig. 1 : HLB ranges & values of different anionic surfactants
- Fig. 2 : Emulsion stabilisation promoted by Pair2Phase1
- Fig. 3 : Optical micrograph of anemulsion of sunflower oil in water with P2P emulsifier
- Fig. 4 : Shear test of P2P emulsions with different ratios of oil to water
- Fig. 5 : Viscosity of emulsions at shear rates of 5/s depending on the ratio between oil & water
- Fig. 6 : Formula of standard P2 cream according to Colipa 2005 water resistance test & modified P2 cream including P2P emulsifier systemEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y_Wa72SizsILQpbLGB1u_8-Ltq5dpfii/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36937
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