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Ingredients focus : fragrance products / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 29-30 Titre : Ingredients focus : fragrance products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 29-30 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrances are a powerful emotional trigger for people and consequently are a hugely important aspect of personal care products. These ingredients operate as brand signifier as well as connoting a wide range of other meanings. Formulating with fragrances can be a challenge, but ingredient suppliers are constantly developing new products that make it easier to work with these powerful ingredients. Following is a selection of some of the wide range of fragrances and solubilisers available on the market. Note de contenu : - Fragances - Solubilisers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jzoYU_HPnKk20iZLHZe4cUMf7Qh34Ytq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28332 [article]

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Chemical and sensory analysis of a silicone emulsion / Luciano Vera in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 32-34 Titre : Chemical and sensory analysis of a silicone emulsion Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luciano Vera, Auteur ; Rita Domingues, Auteur ; Carmen Villatoro, Auteur ; Eloy Companion, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Chimie analytique Chromatographie en phase gazeuse Polymères en émulsion Silicones Les silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : By using the analytical technique of GC-Sniffing-ToFMS it has been possible to find differences in sensory and chemical terms in two samples of silicone emulsions, one of them adulterated. The information obtained will narrow the search to only to a subset of odours that might be responsible for the sensory defect of the adulterated sample. Note de contenu : - FIGURES : 1. a) Each type of silicone emulsion (reference and adulterated) samples, b) emulsion sample depositedin the microchambers - 2. GC-Sniffing analysis configuration. In a standalone run, the flow of VOCs is chromatographically separated during the analysis and each individual compound in then directed towards the rose of an assessor - 3. GC-Sniffing analysis procedure of one sample - 4. Illustrative image of a panellist performance during a GC-sniffing analysis - 5. Odour profile representation of both silicone samples, based on sensory odour descriptors and evaluation differences - TABLES : 1. Scale values used to describe the perceived odours - 2. Some descriptors found in emulsion samples with corresponding chemical identification En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tOg3hSUH8PZJACq6LOFi5yo7lASMTMgJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28333 [article]

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Arisen from nature : fragrance trends 2017-18 / Falco Choynacki in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 36-37 Titre : Arisen from nature : fragrance trends 2017-18 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Falco Choynacki, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 36-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Scents of the upcoming seasons are inspired by nature. Compositions reminding of the African grasslands, as well as aquatic fresh notes taking the colourful submarine world as an inspiration, are making up trend topics of the year. Furthermore, poppy, the flower of the year will make its contribution to the variety of scents for fine fragrance household and personal care products. Note de contenu : - Natural treasures of Africa - Poppy and watercolour design - Protecting the submarine world - It's getting green - Greenery - Botanical extracts as an affordable plus En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fbZtJFtpUbzuAVq7mZw98qx_WHFexczM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28334 [article]

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Claims substantiation and user trials / Martin Perry in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 40-42 Titre : Claims substantiation and user trials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Perry, Auteur ; Mark Bowes-Cavanagh, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 40-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Cosmétiques -- Marketing Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In 2016 it was estimated that the European cosmetic market was worth €77 billion and that about 25% of all cosmetics placed on the market each year are new. product claims and advertising play an important part in persuading customers to purchase cosmetic products. In this article we will take a closer look at the common criteria, experimental studies, consumer perception tests and published information. We have also included an insight into how user trials work based on our experience with First Beauty. Note de contenu : - What is a claim? - European commission report on claims - Legal compliance - Truthfulness - Evidential support - Honesty - Fairness - Informed decision making - Hypoallergenic claims - Best practice - Experimental studies - Consumer perception tests - User trials - Published information - Corrective actions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12g4wOfHxnqEWg5M1lAxBuk_M8lZfrzJ6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28335 [article]

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Skin care actives transferring to colour cosmetics / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 45-49 Titre : Skin care actives transferring to colour cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 45-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Coloration Couleur Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, we have seen an increasing blurring of the boundaries between skin care and colour cosmetics in terms of product formats, benefits and claims. This certainly has not been lost on ingredient manufacturers, with a noticeable trend of traditionally skin care-oriented active ingredients being repositioned, and in cases re-tested, speciafically targeting use in colour cosmetics. The aims of this article is to explore and discuss example of skin care ingredients that are being positioned for colour cosmetics, many of which have bespoke performance data. INCIs and descriptive wording associated with each ingredient mentioned in this article is taken from th erespective manufacturer's marketing inforation. For full information about any study dat areferenced within the text, and for details of exact compositions (including preservative options), please contact the relevant suppliers. Note de contenu : - For the face - For the lips - For lashes - For nails - Skin care functional ingredient transfer En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VOtZsM7d30BmFpquvykIBBzr563PXh5r/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28336 [article]

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Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders in emulsions / François Bouton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders in emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Bouton, Auteur ; Manon Moussour, Auteur ; Marc Lavarde, Auteur ; Anne-Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Polyméthylsilsesquioxane Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A protocol of sensory evaluation is developed to characterise pure cosmetic powders and their impact on emulsions. A collective effort using a qualified group of people was necessary to develop the lexicon and definitions. The group of panellists is able to characterise products and provide sensory profiles that are relevant to assess sensory profiles for a collection of attributes about appearance, pick-up, application and after-feel phases. In this study, we worked on Mirasil Micropearl 40, a white pure polymethylsilsesquioxane resin with a specifil distribution of pacticle sizes. We also have shown that the addition of Mirasil Micropearl 40 (at 5.5% of concentration) into the emulsion increases significantly the cushion effect and the smoothness without affecting the slipperiness and the speadability. Note de contenu : - Method of sensory profile - TABLES : 1. Raw materials for protocol development and sensory evaluation - 2. Raw materials for evaluation - 3. Sensory attributes and references in products (powders and emulsions with powders) - FIGURE : Radar of Mirasil Micropearl 40 powder and emulsion with and without Mirasil Micropearl 40 (5,5% w/w) obtained by quantitative sensory profil method En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vM5rsmxplaXXuARePKNBH6sKRyv0V-c5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28337 [article]

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A natural approach to personal care formulation / Brian Ardito in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 55-56 Titre : A natural approach to personal care formulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian Ardito, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 55-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Cires Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Maquillage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural cosmetic and personal care products are much in demand at present and will be for the foreseeable future. The demand is only likely to increase. Along with natural ingredients, consumers now require high efficacy and luxurious sensory qualities, and this in turn demands ingredients produced specifically for this task. The company's range of natural waxes can impart superior skin-feel, stability, hold and durability to a huge number of natural formulations, and as shown in this article can offer effective alternatives to petrolatum as well as producing natural gels. Note de contenu : - MITIGATING SYNERESIS (OIL BLEEDING) AND CREATING NATURAL GELS - REPLACING PETROLATUM - FORMULATION EXAMPLES : Formulation 1 : Light massage gel - Formulation 2 : Liquid lipstick - Formulation 3 : Natural hair pomade En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fGeLkauNoWntpQb_5JOGN6Lx1Yauxxu7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28338 [article]

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Overview of soap manufacturing technology / Syed H. Abbas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 59-63 Titre : Overview of soap manufacturing technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Syed H. Abbas, Auteur ; Muzammil Amir, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 59-63 Note générale : Biliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Procédés de fabrication Savon Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In short, the soap manufacturing processes, whether current or old, have very interesting chemistry which involve the formation of various phases that have very different rheological and optical properties. These phases are formed due to the unique dual behaviour of molecules having an amphiphilic nature. The solid and liquid phases present in soaps have their effect on product attributes. During the product development process it is important to be aware of the consumers' needs and the product should be designed in such a way that besides product attributes one needs to make sure that the formulations are processable. Note de contenu : - SAPONIFICATION AND NEUTRALISATION PROCESS : Saponification value - Acid value - CHEMICAL REACTION : Saponification process - Neutralisation process - PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SOAP NOODLES : Iodine value of the oil blend - Total fatty matter (TFM) - Krafft point - SOAP PHASES - PHASE TRANSFORMATION DURING PROCESSING : Kettle boiling process - Swing process - Fatty acid route - FINISHED SOAP - BAR SOAP PROPERTIES - CONSUMER PERCEPTION : Packaging - Perfume - Lather - Slough - Rate of wear - SOAP PROCESSING - TABLES : 1. Acid value result - 2. Swing process result - FIGURES : 1. Reaction of ioding with the unsaturated part of soap molecule - 2. Krafft point laurate-oleate mixture - 3. Phase diagram for kettle boiling processes - 4. Lye separation - 5. Generic binary soap-water phase diagram. Abbreviation : lamellar liquid crystal, L? ; Normal hexagonal liquid crystal, H1 ; Micellar phase, L1. Palmqvist, 1983 - 6. Soap noodle manufacturing process using F1 - 7. Soap finishing process En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12IUcOU4PeDUE97_9aWwWwMgfooutv-QD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28339 [article]

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Immune balance rating system applied to sunscreens / Bryce Feltis in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 65-70 Titre : Immune balance rating system applied to sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bryce Feltis, Auteur ; Grace Guo, Auteur ; Brent Baxter, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 65-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Etude in vitro Evaluation Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Immune Balance Rating- (IBR) system is an exciting new in vitro testing protocol for sunscreens and other topical products based upon cellular responses from skin and immune tells. The system compares products to a reference standard and measures five cellular outputs. Each output gives a relative rating and the product is then scored based on the average across all areas. This allows standardised grading of products and more substantive claims and targeted marketing. The testing protocols involve cell culture of human skin keratinocytes and monocytes. Cells were tested for viability, cytokine and reactive oxygen production alter co-exposure with product and UV light. All exposures were 24 hours over a range of concentrations. We have tested six commercial SPF 50+ sunscreen formulations, each of identical base components, but varying in active component concentrations and preservatives. The standard formulations contained 27% active ingredients, whereas the low active formations contained 15% total actives. The preservatives tested were capyrlyl glycol, MIT or parabens. Based on the aggregate IBR scores, all 3 low active formulations rated higher than the standard formulations. Preservative type had a small effect, most noticeable in the low active formulations. The IBR system has shown the first in vitro evidence that low active sunscreens are less reactive than standard formulation sunscreens to human skin and immune tells. This demonstrates that the is a valuable tool that can differentiate between very similar products. lt allows further support of claims around sensitive skin with reproducible scientific data. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Product specifications - Product preparation - Cell culture - Product and UV exposure - Cell viability testing - Cytokine response testing - Reactive oxygen species testing - Rating and scoring - RESULTS : Abbreviations used in figures - Cytotoxicity - IBR1 : Immunostimulation - IBR2 : Immunosuppression - IB3 : Phototoxicity - IBR4 : Protection from UVB - IBR5 : Protection from UVA - Summary and overall scoring - TABLES : 1. Summarised scoring table for all 6 sunscreen formulations across the 5 IBR tests. The final score is the average of all tests - 2. IBR claims matrix. Claims can be made based upon an individual rating in a test category or the average overall rating En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t8hHEnRx0FQAnFGEkfZno6fV2AS0oA85/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28340 [article]

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Waking up skin with vegetable taurine / Gabrielle Moro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 73-75 Titre : Waking up skin with vegetable taurine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabrielle Moro, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Taurine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Unique and hi-tech patented development - Energising action - Fibroblast's body building action - Energising and anti-ageing benefits - FIGURES : 1. Cultivation of Jania rubens in photo-bioreactors - 2. Measure of ATP synthesis in 30-year-old human dermal fibroblasts treated with synthetic taurine or Early Boost for 4 hours - 3. Visulation of the length and number of extension of 30-year-old fibroblasts cultivated in 3D lattice (3a) after 8 days contact with Early Boost (3b) - 4. Visualisation of signs of tiredness of one volunteer, before treatment (4a) and 24H after a single treatment with 1,5% Early Boost (4b) - 4. Visualisation of crow's feet wrinkles of one volunteer, before treatment (5a) and after 4 weeks treatment with 1,5% Early Boost (5b) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oZVcHPeg5n_sip3KDpk6im0u0SHWzXbA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28341 [article]

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Key mechanisms for new era of personalised cosmetics / Salvador Mena-Molà in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 77-81 Titre : Key mechanisms for new era of personalised cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Salvador Mena-Molà, Auteur ; José Luis García-Giménez, Auteur ; Daymé Gonzalez-Rodríguez, Auteur ; Pablo Soro-Barrio, Auteur ; Lidia Roselló, Auteur ; Pascual Cuadrado-Escamilla, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 77-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Epigénétique L'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN) "Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être". "C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes". Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ageing is one of the unavoidable processes in life and can be defined as changes in structures and tissue processes that affect related organs and systems with time. We know that the environment and our relation with it can accelerate or delay cell ageing. Epigenetics helps us to understand how some genes involved in cell senescence, protection mechanisms and cell detoxication, and even the genes that participate in stem cell renovation, are regulated by processes based on DNA methylation, post-translational histone modifications and non coding RNAs (microRNAs and IncRNAs). Several studies have confirmed that cell ageing can be delayed, and even reversed, by epigenetic reprogramming. Evidently this discipline opens up endless possibilities for designing new anti-ageing strategies. The present article explains some ageing-related epigenetic mechanisms and how these mechanisms are a key element to consider in skin care and health. Finally, the potential that this discipline has on the generation and characterisation of new anti-ageing cosmetic active principles is described. Note de contenu : - EPIGENETIC DEREGULATION : Telomere shortening - Stem cell exhaustion - Cell senescence - MICRORNAS AS KEY MODULATORS OF CELL AGEING - EPIGENETICS AND ITS POTENTIAL USE IN ANTI-AGEING COSMETIC TREATMENTS - FIGURES : 1. the nine hall marks of ageing and main epigenetic mechanisms involved - 2. Epigenetic mechanisms that participate in the control of genetic regulation during ageing. a) Chromatin remodeling during cellular ageing ; b) global epigenetic changes at DNA methylation and histone level during ageing ; c) telomere attrition mediated by deregulation of epigenetic marks and epigenetic machinery - TABLES : 1. Global epigenetic changes associated to cellular ageing - 2. miRNAs participating in the regulation of pathways associated to 9 hallmarks of ageing. miRNAs has been listed from works of LW Harries and XM Caravia En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qx2ES6G9x6xvo85Fwu_pZuDcprJnZ_SS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28342 [article]

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Comprehensive skin barrier protection : colloidal oatmeal / James Daybell in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 85-90 Titre : Comprehensive skin barrier protection : colloidal oatmeal Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James Daybell, Auteur ; Cark Maunsell, Auteur ; Theresa M. Callaghan, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 85-90 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Avoine et constituants Colloides Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques Evaluation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Oatmeal has been used for many centuries as a soothing agent to relieve itch and irritation associated with various dry skin conditions. In 1945, a ready to use colloidal oatmeal, produced by finely grinding the oat and boiling â to extract the colloidal material, became commercially available : Today, colloidal oatmeal is available in various dosage forms from powders for bathing to shampoos, shaving gels, and moisturising creams. The clinical properties of colloidal oatmeal derive from its chemical composition diversity. The high concentration in starches and g-glucan is responsible for the protective and water-holding functions of oat. The presence of different types of polyphenols confers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. The cleansing activity of oat is mostly due to saponins. Its many functional properties make colloidal oatmeal a cleanser, moisturiser, buffer, as well as a soothing and protective anti-inflammatory agent. This present article profiles the key attributes of colloidal oatmeal and presents data on a new advanced colloidal oatmeal (Oat COM). Oat COM colloidal oatmeal is an advanced colloidal oatmeal due to its structural and chemical composition with marked improvements in oil and water binding capacities. Note de contenu : - Sensitive skin stress and irritation - Composition attributes - Screening effects and indicative mechanisms - Human studies - Consumer evaluation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lQr3ylHWb8Qy9J6FKqV2qb6cGRDQtH6S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28343 [article]

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Examining the survival and evolution of modern men / Christopher Bannister-Bailey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 92-96 Titre : Examining the survival and evolution of modern men Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christopher Bannister-Bailey, Personne interviewée ; Richard Scott, Intervieweur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 92-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Produits de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16TWME1LIZ7EldhQG892crYHaRxcmkWFW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28344 [article]

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Skin ageing detox system reacts to cellular senescence / Alain Thibodeau in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 99-102 Titre : Skin ageing detox system reacts to cellular senescence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alain Thibodeau, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 99-102 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Goyavier et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin cells are constantly exposed to environmental stresses that will inexorably cause structural and biological damage. Oxidative reactions, DNA damage, metabolic dysregulations or even tell death are direct consequences of such environmental insults. Indirect effects, through the production of enzymes, cytokines and interleukines, may aiso occur and will eventually translate into the degradation of macromolecules, chronic inflammatory reactions, chemoattraction and immunosuppression. Depending upon the extent of damage they undergo, skin cells can take various decisional pathways. If the extent of damage is relatively low, cells will trigger a repair process to fix any deteriorated molecuies or impaired metabolic pathways before resuming their normal functions. If excessive damage is caused making it impossible (or too energy-consuming) to repair, cells will undergo organised tell death also called apoptosis. In that scenario cells will be eiiminated. When the extent of damage is 'medium' — significant enough ta overwhelm the repair machinery but not sufficient to command apoptosis — Cells will become senescent. Upon entering senescence, cells wili no longer divide into daughter cells. Senescence is thus a mechanism of protection or an adaptation to stress preventing cells from transmitting damage (genetic) to their progeny. However, unlike apoptotic cells, senescent cells remain a live, metabolically active and they accumulate in the skin as we age. The accumulation of senescent cells can cause a form of age-dependent endogeneous toxification of the skin. A likely link between cellular senescence and ageing and age-related conditions is acknowledged by the scientific community. Note de contenu : - Cellular senescence contributes to the ageing process - Consequences of senescence - Actions of NF-kB-regulated SASP pathways - Preventing activation and nuclear translocationof NF-kB - Locking NF-kB into an inactive configuration - Action of the guava leaf active on selective SASP factors - FIGURES : 1. Activation of NF-KB and SASP pathways upon cellular senescence induction - 2. A. Skin reactions to the secretion of eotaxin by senescent epidermal cells - B. Skin reaction to the activation of COX-2 and the secretion of PGE2 by senescent epidermal cells - C. Skin reactions to the activation of iNOS and the secretion of NO by senescent epidermals cells - 3. Activation andnuclear translocation of NF-kB in a TNF-?-induced senescence model - Inhibition by the Bioptimize Guava leaf active - 4. Inhibition of lkB degradation by the Bioptimized Guava leaf active - 5. Effects of the guava leaf active on the production of selective SASP factors - 6. Summary of the guava leaf active actions in a cellular senescence model En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1It16Scr3w3KDkbCHeqoj7PdwNwyDy2O9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28345 [article]

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Anti-inflammation power of Nymphea alba L. flavonoids / Kwang-Sik Joo in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 104-108 Titre : Anti-inflammation power of Nymphea alba L. flavonoids Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kwang-Sik Joo, Auteur ; Jin-Woo Min, Auteur ; Hee-Cheol Kang, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 104-108 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Chimie analytique Extraction (chimie) Flavonoïdes Immunochimie Mesure Nitrites Peau -- Soins et hygiène Toxicologie cellulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The flowers of Nymphaea alba were extracted with 70% EtOH. The concentrated extract was partitioned with EtOAc, n-BuOH, and H2O. From the EtOAc fractions, three flavonoid compounds were isolated through the repeated SiO2 and ODS column chromatographies. The isolated compounds were identified new compound on the basis of NMR, MS, and IR spectroscopic data, respectively. In order to investigate antiatopic dermatitis potential of Nymphaea alba, we evaluate the anti-inflammatory effect of Compound 1-3 from the flowers of N. alba. Compound 1-3 dose-dependently showed inhibition effects for the productions of nitric oxide (NO) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced macrophages (Compound 1: IC50 µM ; Compound 2: IC50 pM ; Compound 3: IC50 µM). And we conducted the mRNA expression related with thymus- and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC/CCL17) and macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC/CCL22) in HaCaT keratinocyte cells by Compound 1. Compound 1 inhibited the expression of nnRNA on HaCaT cells which treated with TARC/CCL17 and MDC/CCL22. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods - Extraction and isolation - Cytotoxicity (MTT) assay - Nitric measurement of nitrite (NO) levels - Enzyme linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - Measurement of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) - Structural analysis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v6KMdXICCOncT_w04VGrKcMp2FSFN77T/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28346 [article]

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Efficacy of synthetic insect repellents / Matthias Kunze in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 111-114 Titre : Efficacy of synthetic insect repellents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matthias Kunze, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 111-114 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Protection cutanée Répulsifs (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Zika virus epidemic in particular has highlighted the threat resulting from blood-sucking parasites. In the part, Europeans attributed health concerns mostly to ticks, while mosquitoes were regarded mainly as a nuisance. This has changed in the last few years. Two autochthonous transmissions of the dengue virus by Aedes albopictus where confirmed in France in 2010 and 2013. In 2016 Borrelia genes were found in four different mosquito genera, including Culex and Aedes in Germany. Moreover, scientists do not rule out a transmission of the Zika virus by European mosquitoes. Despite these growing threats resulting from mosquito bites, ticks still represent a much higher risk for human health in Europe. The most common tick in Europe is the castor bean tick (Ixodes ricinus). This species can transmit the arbo-virus which causes tick-borne encephalitis (TBE). In severe cases this can be fatal for weak patients. Borreliosis is another illness transmitted by the castor bean tick. This can lead to para lysis and impaired vision. Note de contenu : - Mode of action of repellents and measurement of efficacy - Studies on mosquitoes - Health and compatibility aspects - FIGURES : 1. Loss of efficacy against Anpheles gambiae - 2. Average protection against Anopheles gambiae - 3. Protection time of commercial formulations against mosquitoes - 4. Protection time of 20% solutions of IR3535 and Saltidin against mosquitoes - 5. Protection time of commercial formulations against mosquitoes - 6. Protection time of commercial formulations against the tick species Ixodes ricinus - 7. Protection time of formulations against the lone star tick - 8. Protection time of 20% solutions of DEET and Saltidin against the deer tick En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f6U5wvW_MXQtkG3g_t5VNgCFWN8ULRKg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28347 [article]

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Sea anemone inspired peptide comforts sensitive skin / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 117-119 Titre : Sea anemone inspired peptide comforts sensitive skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 117-119 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie biomimétique Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel neurocosmetic soothing active, a biomimetic peptide inspired by the analgesic component of sea anemone venom, immediately comforts sensitive skin after the first application. An in vitro assay showed that the peptide reduced the activation of the TRPV1 pain receptor. To ensure improved skin uptake, the peptide was incorporated into a soft sphere carrier system based on shea butter. In clinical studies, the soothing active reduced the electrical current perception threshold of the skin, which is an indicator for skin reactivity and decreased skin sensitivity by reducing the response to skin irritation. Note de contenu : - THE MOLECULAR CAUSE OF SENSITIVE SKIN - A SOLUTION FOR SENSITIVE SKIN DERIVED FROM SEA ANEMONE VENOM - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Whole-cell patch clamp technique - Current perception threshold measurements - Lactic acid stinging test - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Peptide derived from sea anemone inhibits TRPV1 - Single treatment with the shooting active reduces skin reactivity - Reduction of ski sensitivity by the soothing active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t8qKJLTExm-EJzspTVHWaTbA_BuPtYt-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28348 [article]

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Sun-activated naturals for instant and long-term beauty / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 121-124 Titre : Sun-activated naturals for instant and long-term beauty Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Auteur ; Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Michal Shevach, Auteur ; Avi Shtevi, Auteur ; Olga Ben-Chitrit, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 121-124 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fluorescence Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fluorescent materials absorb light energy, and re-emit it at a longer wavelength. Fluorescence is used in a range of industries, including cosmetics. Usually, synthetic substances are employed. In this article, we present the use of natural, UV activated, fluorescent active ingrédients to deliver instant skin lightening and anti-redness ; and overall skin brightening effects. In one study, we used the natural green fluorescence of phytoene and phytofluene in the form of IBR-TCLC® (tomate colorless carotenoids), to deliver instant skin lightening and redness reduction. This was demonstrated in a placebo-controlled study using UV and full spectrum light photography and quantitative measures (colorimeter). In a second study we used the natural blue fluorescence of dragon fruit extract named IBR-Dragon to deliver immediate and long-term overall skin brightening effects using bath photographic dernonstration and quantitative instrumental measurements. In the studies reported above, we make use of the materials natural UV induced fluorescence, leveraging colour opponency theory to deliver real, measurable, and consumer-perceptible beauty benefits — using natural and safe compounds. Note de contenu : - Preservation of youth and prevention of ageing - Adaptation to harsh conditions - Brighter, luminescent and naturally radiant skin - VISUAL DEMONSTRATIONS OF FLUORESCENCE AND ITS EFFECTS - IN VIVO DEMONSTRATION OF IMMEDIATE REDNESS REDUCTION AND SKIN LIGHTENING WITH PHYTOENE- AND PHYTOFLUENE-RICH EXTRACT : Materials and methods : phytoene and phytofluene extract study - IN VIVO STUDY : INSTANT SKIN BRIGHTENING WITH HYLOCEREUS UNDATUS FRUIT EXTRACT AND ITS LONG TERM BENEFITS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pvGHVQPDH48VC-pF0Ry_i8yCjMn1avH_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28349 [article]

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Study data confirm global antipollution activity / Silke Schagen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 126-128 Titre : Study data confirm global antipollution activity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Silke Schagen, Auteur ; Sabrina Overhagen, Auteur ; Susanne Grether-Beck, Auteur ; Jean Krutmann, Auteur ; Andreas Bilstein, Auteur ; Eva Galik, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 126-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Biomolécules actives Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Latest scientific evidence confirms, that air pollution contributes to premature skin ageing and may even be the primary cause of ageing in some cases. Especially for particulate matter and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) negative influence on skin integrity has been shown. The natural stress-protection molecule Ectoin® is well known to strengthen the skin barrier function, to work against variable stressors such as UVA/UVB radiation, IR-A, visible light or allergens, and for its anti-inflammatory activity. This study demonstrates the global protection and prevention efficacy of Ectoin from air pollution induced skin damage. Ectoin is well suited for topical antipollution products targeting skin pigmentation and accelerated ageing as well as particle stressed and irritated skin. Note de contenu : - FIGURES : Pollution particles to induce POMC expression in keratinocytes - Pollution particles to induce MMP1 expression in keratinocytes - Pollution particles to induce Cyp1A1 expression in keratinocytes - Up-regulation of A) POMC, B) NMP1 ane C) Cym 1A1 mRNA expression in primary human keratinocytes (Asian and Caucasian) by sub-toxic amounts of ultrafine and fine carbon black particles and by two different types of exhaust particulates. 18S ribosomal RNA (rRNA) was used as a POMC overexpression. The remaining response is calculated by setting the pollution induced effect equal 100% B, C) Ectoin reduces MMP1 and Cyp 1A1 up-regulation and protects keratinocytes also from fine carbon black particle and diesel particulate matter - 2. In vivo study design, smoke application with standardised chamber system - 3. Cigarette smoke application on the volar forearm - after only 5 days of application with 1% Ectoin the pollution induced MDA content in the skin was reduced by 48% compared to the placebo treated areas. A strong anti-oxidant (gold standard) was able to reduce the pollution-induced MDA content in the skin by 27% (data not shown) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pyp0JC-G2uNE-LMat0KXsvfe-b7nMp5D/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28350 [article]

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A solution for pollution-induced ageing of skin / Kazal Boron Biswas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 131-134 Titre : A solution for pollution-induced ageing of skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kazal Boron Biswas, Auteur ; Kiyotaka Tanaka, Auteur ; Satoru Takayama, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 131-134 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Tabac -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For the last 20-30 years UV was really the main topic in skin care science. Until recently, people might not have been aware of the detrimentaI effects of environmental pollution on skin mainly because UV was thought to be the one to cause extrinsic skin ageing. Nowadays, people have come to know that pollutants have harmful affects similar to that of UV on skin, and also that pollutants in combination with UV may have greater impact on skin because of the production of ozone from photochemical reactions between the pollutants, heat, and UV. One of the pollutants is tobacco smoke, which is well-known for its harmful effects on health, and another is PM2.5, against which scientists have already declared war all over the world. People are now looking for solutions to the harmful affects of pollution. We have been conducting exclusive research on environmental factor-induced skin ageing for many years. Among these factors we investigated tobacco smoke and PM2.5's relationship with skin ageing with the aim of developing a natural-based cosmetic ingredient to be used in cosmetic formulations. We could provide one optimistic solution that ougon extract could be an ideal cosmetic ingredient for manufacturers willing to develop an anti-ageing finished product based on skin care against environmental pollution, particularly tobacco smoke and PM2.5. Note de contenu : - AIR POLLUTION AND ITS MECHANISM OF ACTION - FIGURES : 1. Inhibition of tobacco smoke (extracted in an organic solvent, hexane)-induced expression of CYP1B1 in human cultured fibroblasts by ougon - 2. Reduction of MMP-1 expression induced by oil (a) and water (b) soluble components of tobacco smoke by ougon - 3. Down-regulation of PM2.5-induced expression of CYP1A1 by ougon in NHEK - 4. Inhibition of PM2.5-induced expression of CYP1B1 in NHEK by ougon - 5. Suppression of mRNA expression of IL-1b induced by PM2.5 in human cultured keratinocytes - 6. Down-regulation of PM2.5-induced expression of IL-6 in NHEK by ougon - 7. Dose-dependent inhibition of IL-8 expression induced by PM2.5 in human cultured keratinocytes by ougon - 8. Ougon significantly reduced the formation of wrinkle (a) and improved skin elasticity (b) on human skin - 9. Ougon decreased pigmented spots as well as melanin index on the faces of smokers significantly En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NJlrChGyqH7tx-Aoz1JI6esQcoUDz1V8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28351 [article]

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Multi-target delivery to eliminate dark spots / Mercedes Cócera in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 137-142 Titre : Multi-target delivery to eliminate dark spots Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mercedes Cócera, Auteur ; R. Saldaña, Auteur ; Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, Auteur ; Olga López, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 137-142 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Evaluation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Bicowhite complex is a sophisticated Bicosome system that works by blocking the main processes involved in the formation of dark spots. The in vitro studies demonstrated that this product is able to decrease melanin content without damaging the skin structure. This effect is explained by the interaction between the innovative Bicosome mechanism and the skin, which allows for adequate delivery and protection of the skin structure. Bicowhite has been proven effective in decreasing skin melanin content even when skin is submitted to UV radiation, which indicates that treatment with this product could a lso be carried out in sunny seasons. The in vivo studies demonstrated that Bicowhite is highly effective and specific in depigmenting dark spots, whitening, brightening, unifying skin tone and also improving the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The proposed multi-target delivery strategy opens up new possibilities for treatment and resolves some of the most important limitations of whitening treatments, such as lack of active penetration, disruption of skin structures, irritation, non-specificity, seasonality of treatments and, finally, insufficient efficacy. All results considered, we conclude Bicowhite is an effective and advanced whitening/brightening active ingredient to be used in all seasons. Note de contenu : - Multi-target delivery strategy - In vitro efficacy studies - Protective effect on the skin structure - Whitening activity in skin exposed to UV radiation - In vivo efficacy studies - Clinical evaluation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G64ydHkomIuR0kiS6hdeDHTexFyiVlYx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28352 [article]

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A secret weapon against effects of pollution / Nathalie Pouillaute in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 146-148 Titre : A secret weapon against effects of pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nathalie Pouillaute, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 146-148 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Atmosphère -- Pollution -- Lutte contre Biomolécules actives Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.4 Plastiques, vinyles Résumé : Half of the world's population lives in cities and consequently pollution is now a major concern for a large number of consumers. It is net only a concern regarding the pollution's impact on the Earth, but also on people's health in general and in particular on the skin. Exposed to urban pollution, the skin becomes more sensitive. It loses its brightness and ages prematurely. This is known as 'Polluaging'. Algues et Mer (A&M) has introduced an innovative new active ingredient : Invincity. This ingredient protects the skin from pollution from the inside, and fights its effects in order to prevent Polluaging. Note de contenu : - Ouessant island - Fucoidans expertise - Testing criteria : Ex-vivo test conditions - In vivo test conditions - RESULTS : Antipollution - Barrier reinforcement - Global brightness - Firmness - FIGURES : 1. a) Anti-pollution - 2. Barrier reinforcement - b) TEWL variation vs. placebo up to-13% - 3. Globalbrightness - anti-dark spots a) melanin content ; b) inhibition of tyrosinase activity - 4. Global brightness - andi-redness spots a) oxidative stress ; b) hemoglobin content - 5. Firmness En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BEoWeM-VBB5C6rkvValopahYIz_PD2vo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28353 [article]

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Reprogramming cells for a younger looking skin / Julia Comas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 151-153 Titre : Reprogramming cells for a younger looking skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Laia Gonzalez, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 151-153 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Epigénétique L'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN) "Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être". "C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes". Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Epigenetics is gaining strong interest in the cosmetics field, being understood as an alternative but powerful approach to control biological processes such as skin ageing. Inspired by this concept, the new ReproageTM peptide was launched. Alter several efficacy tests, the cosmetic active ingredient showed to help skin regeneration properties last longer and improve the skin's appearance, with an enhanced smoothness and radiance. Note de contenu : - Rejuvenating effects through epigenetics - Modulation of miR-145 - Induction of stem cell transcription factors - Favouring progenitor cells of the epidermis - Renewal and smoothing of the skin surface - Radiant and better-looking skin - FIGURES : Gene expression of three different transcription factors (*p<0.05 ; **p<0.01) - 2. RHE showing K10 and K14 in green (nuclei and coloured in blue) - 3. Epidermal models with p63 represented in green (cell nuclei marked in blue) - 4. Epidermal self-renewaltime (vs non-treated skin : (**p<0.01 ; ***p<0.001) VS PLACEBO : *p<0.05) - 5. Reconstructed 3D images of skin roughness. The reduction in surface depth can be seen as a tendency to change from blue to red colour - 6. Images of a volunteer before and after the treatment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pkx8iM6Hj80UYzBSlqvC7RjYhdaqpTOe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28354 [article]

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Stabilised Potentilla polyphenols fight skin ageing / Julie Droux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 155-158 Titre : Stabilised Potentilla polyphenols fight skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 155-158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Collagène -- Synthèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polyphénols Les polyphénols constituent une famille de molécules organiques largement présente dans le règne végétal. Ils sont caractérisés, comme l’indique le nom, par la présence d'au moins deux groupes phénoliques associés en structures plus ou moins complexes, généralement de haut poids moléculaire. Ces composés sont les produits du métabolisme secondaire des plantes. Les polyphénols prennent une importance croissante, notamment grâce à leurs effets bénéfiques sur la santé. En effet, leur rôle d’antioxydants naturels suscite de plus en plus d'intérêt pour la prévention et le traitement du cancer, des maladies inflammatoires, cardiovasculaires et neurodégénératives. Ils sont également utilisés comme additifs pour les industries agroalimentaire, pharmaceutique et cosmétique "Ils ont tous en commun la présence d'un ou plusieurs cycles benzéniques portant une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyles". La désignation "polyphénols" est consacrée par l'usage et, alors qu'elle ne devrait concerner que les molécules portant plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle phénolique, elle est habituellement utilisée pour l'ensemble de ces composés. Les polyphénols naturels regroupent donc un vaste ensemble de substances chimiques comprenant au moins un noyau aromatique, portant un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, en plus d’autres constituants. Il y a quatre principales familles de composés phénoliques : les acides phénoliques (catéchol, acide gallique, acide protocatéchique), les flavones, l'acide chlorogénique et les quinones. Ils peuvent aller de molécules simples, comme les acides phénoliques, à des composés hautement polymérisés, de plus de trente mille daltons, comme les tanins (acide tannique). Les polyphénols sont communément subdivisés en phénols simples, acides phénoliques et coumarines, en naphtoquinones, en stilbénoïdes (deux cycles en C6 liés par deux atomes de carbone), en flavonoïdes, isoflavonoïdes et anthocyanes, et en formes polymérisées : lignanes, lignines, tanins condensés. Ces squelettes carbonés de base sont issus du métabolisme secondaire des plantes, élaborés par la voie du shikimate. Les polyphénols sont présents dans diverses substances naturelles : sous forme d'anthocyanine dans les fruits rouges, le vin rouge (en relation avec les tanins, phénomène du "paradoxe français"), sous forme de proanthocyanidines dans le chocolat et le vin, d'acides caféoylquinique et féruloylquinique dans le café, de flavonoïdes dans les agrumes, et sous forme de catéchines comme le gallate d'épigallocatéchine dans le thé vert, de quercétine dans les pommes, les oignons, le vin rouge, etc. D'après une étude réalisée avec des volontaires via Internet, les sources alimentaires de polyphénols sont principalement le café (36,9 %), le thé — vert ou noir — (33,6 %), le chocolat pour son cacao (10,4 %), le vin rouge (7,2 %) et les fruits (6,7 %)18. Parmi les fruits, les polyphénols, très présents dans toutes les pommes, sont encore plus concentrés dans les pommes à cidre (riches en tanin), qui peuvent en contenir jusqu'à quatre fois plus : c'est une biodiversité qui se manifeste en richesse aussi bien qualitativement que quantitativement en polyphénols. (Wikipedia) Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over time the ageing process changes skin structure. Damage caused by free radicals prevents normal cellular function and, among other things, the different skin layers become atrophied. The cutaneous relief quality is degraded, skin becomes rough, loses its firmness and wrinkles begin to form. These ageing signs, that appear on the skin surface, have to be reversed from the depth and net just visibly improved. Consumers become aware that skin ageing is an unavoidable phenomenon : it happens to each of us, all the time and everywhere, no matter our lifestyle. However, we embrace a new age of ageing : self-confidence is no longer just about looking younger because growing older is better and better accepted — but also to look good for yourself. The search for new action mechanisms is still required to decrease side effects and to improve appearance together with skin texture. Some women are willing to use aesthetic treatment in order to improve their appearance and some others prefer a more natural way: using efficient molecules extracted from plants. Note de contenu : - Skin ageing : a natural process - Stabilised polyphenol - Potentilla, a tremendous polyphenol source - Epidermal and dermal structure improvement : ex vivo studies : Effect on oxidative stress - Collagen synthesis - Skin texture improvement : clinical studies : Anti-glycation activity - Anti-wrinkle activity - FIGURES : 1. Phytovector technology : Polyphenol - Stabilised polyphenol - Bioavailable polyphenol - 2. Stimulation of collagen III synthesis on skin explant at 0.50% - 3. Anti-wrinkle activity of potentilla rhizome extract after 28 days of treatment at 0.50% En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UHzQU3TKMyplEZrK9rU0yeqwuYTvoAn-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28355 [article]

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A new opportunity for squalane alternatives / Antoine Piccirilli in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017) . - p. 161-166 Titre : A new opportunity for squalane alternatives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Antoine Piccirilli, Auteur ; Thierry Bernoud, Auteur ; Julien Magne, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 161-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Développement durable Ingrédients cosmétiques Olive et constituants Ressources renouvelables Squalane Squalène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Olive squalane has seen a tremendous increase in consumption since shark liver oil was prohibited in cosmetics in Europe. Its exceptional sensoriel profile including an excellent skin biocompatibility with a moisturising effect made it a favourite with cosmetic formulators. For structural reasons, olive squalane availability impacts negatively on its price which has increased year after year. A new and non-reversible technological trend in the olive oil industry (physical refining) combined with conjunctural phenomena such as bad climatic conditions of industrial practices in olive oil refining, and invasive insect attacks (Mosqueta oleifera infestation in Italy) reduces adequate availability of olive squalane along with the ability to offer it at a low price. Otherwise the replacement of shark squalene, which remains the main squalane source in cosmetics worldwide, has become a priority in terms of biodiversity safeguarding in order to avoid already vulnerable shark species extinction. In this context, innovation is needed to develop a new alternative to olive squalane which is cosmetically identical, 100% vegetable, readily available without any risk of supply shortage, ecofriendly, sustainable and cost effective to compete efficiently with shark squalane. Note de contenu : - A brief history of squalane in cosmetics - The crucial question of olive squalene supply - New alternatives to olive squalane - FIGURES : 1. Chemical structures of squalene and squalane - 2. Production process of shark squalene - 3. Production process of olive squalene - 4. Chemical and physical refining of olive oil - 5. Biomass productivity - Sugarcane vs olive vs coconut - 6. Chemical and physical properties of EcoSqualana, shark, olive and sugarcane - 7. Texturometry assessment of EcoSqualene, olive and sugarcane squalene - 8. Spreading properties assessment (goniometry) of EcoSqualene, olive and sugarcane squalene - 9. Environmental impact of EcoSqualane, olive and sugarcane squalene on global warning potential, fossil energy economy ecotoxicity - TABLES : 1. Squalene content in natural sources - 2. Squalene in olive acids oils as co-products of chemical and physical refining - 3. Physicochemical characteristics of EcoSqualane En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w863_UeQ3JVGKvRDrgE7rI1oIahHstUf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28356 [article]

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