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Antimicrobial and microflorae interactions : the potential for novel probiotics for the skin - cultivation, interaction and protection / Maureen Danaher in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 2-6 Titre : Antimicrobial and microflorae interactions : the potential for novel probiotics for the skin - cultivation, interaction and protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maureen Danaher, Auteur ; Erica Segura, Auteur ; Durant Scholz, Auteur ; Collin Brady, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 2-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Flore cutanée Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Probiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A niche by definition is the physical environment to which a species — mammalian or microbial has become adapted to an ecological community, as well as its role as producer or consumer of available resources. Many may not consider individual species as their own type of niche, let alone organs of the human body, such as the skin. However, skin is teeming with both natural and non-resident microbial communities that often have an effect on downstream pathophysiological events. There are multiple, diverse microbial niches found on the human body that vary based on location and environmental exposure. Ample research has been published on the negative effects of such microbes that could lead to infection or disease, as well as the benefits to which some commensal digestive probiotics promote health. The potential to manipulate these microbes for positive uses on the skin, in addition to their undervalued innate protective role to depend against transient pathogens, has yet to be revealed. By expanding our understanding of natural flora and non-resident microbes, we can investigate how they may be manipulated for the relatively undiscovered use as dermal probiotics. Note de contenu : - Importance of the microbiome - Microbial armor and more - Microbial cultivation - More than a shield En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iqi1VFTTwctiHjAjTepp--iXnKdcztmw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28122 [article]

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Natural alternatives for emulsification using oil technology / Mchem Simmonds in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 8-13 Titre : Natural alternatives for emulsification using oil technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mchem Simmonds, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ester de polyglycérol Micelles Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the cosmetics and personal care industry, there is increasing demand for natural, green and sustainable ingredients. Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the effect their products can have on the environment and on their skin. These trends are driving ingredient and product development, particularly in the area of emulsifiers. In this article, we will be discussing what these changes in trends and demands mean for the manufacturer and consumer, the chemistry of emulsification ; and what natural emulsifier alternatives are available using oil technologies. Note de contenu : - Market trends - The chemistry of emulsification : Creaming - Sedimentation - Flocculation - Coalescence - Phase inversion - Ostwald ripening - MANUFACTURE OF EMULSIONS - NATURAL ALTERNATIVES FOR EMULSIFICATION USING OIL TECHNOLOGY - FIGURES : 1. Emulsifier micelle o/w structure - 2. Emulsion instability - 3. Polyglycerol ester synthesis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/187wDpMaJPamXs9plxXXJGrS_NgZKI2Xo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28128 [article]

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Mannosylerythritol and cellobiose lipids - Versatile biosurfactants / Thomas Hahn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 18-23 Titre : Mannosylerythritol and cellobiose lipids - Versatile biosurfactants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Hahn, Auteur ; Fabian Haitz, Auteur ; Nancy Schäper, Auteur ; Paula Carrillo-Riveros, Auteur ; Michael Günther, Auteur ; Susanne Zibek, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Cellobiose Le cellobiose est le produit de la dégradation de la cellulose. Mannosylérythritol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Mannosylerythritol and cellobiose lipids are biosurfactants produced by microorganisms from renewable resources as plant oils or sugars. Both are known as promising biosurfactants for the use in cosmetics or in cleaning and laundry agents. One of the greatest strengths of microbially produced biosurfactants in their structural variety. Different mannosylerythritol lipid structures could be produced by variation of Pseudozyma strains in combination with different plant oils tuning their properties towards the required application. Furthermore, post-processing methods with enzymes or alkaline treatment were shown to be applied successfully e.g. to increase hydrophilicity of mannosylerythritol and cellobiose lipids resulting in a widening of the application fields. Potential applications of both biosurfactants are reasoned on their auspicious properties in application-specific investigations. In contrast to these findings, the number of commercial products is yet marginal. Note de contenu : - MOLECULE STRUCTURE OF MANNOSYLERYTHRITOL AND CELLOBIOSE LIPIDS - VARIATION OF MANNOSYLERYTHRITOL LIPIDS : MEL pattern variation by the use of different microorganisms - MEL pattern variation by the use of different plant oils - Enzymatic modification of the MEL structures - CELLOBIOSE LIPIDS : Enzymatic modification and alkaline treatment of CLs - PROPERTIES AND POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS FOR MEL AND CL En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HsFnb9916GHLNnpX7iWWmRux6f2VLqaJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28132 [article]

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Sulphonated methyl ester - a promising surfactant for detergency in hard water conditions / Yee Seng Lim in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 24-30 Titre : Sulphonated methyl ester - a promising surfactant for detergency in hard water conditions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yee Seng Lim, Auteur ; Jordan Petkov, Auteur ; Hui Xu, Auteur ; Rumyana Stanimirov, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 24-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détergents Eau dure Esters méthyliques sulfonés Krafft, Température de Mélanges (chimie) Mesure Mousse (chimie) Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : We report results on the physical phase behavior of sulphonated methyl esters in different water hardness conditions. We also compare its foam performance against a number of other surfactants in correlation with their Krafft points at different levels of water hardness. Whilst SME is slightly behind in terms of solubility in deionized water, it gains ground as the level of water hardness goes up and is significantly better, when certain mixtures are used. The best results are observed at 1:1 ratio for Krafft point as well as for foam performance. The results suggest potential applications for these relatively new palm oil-derived surfactants, namely in regions with high levels of water hardness. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Determination of Krafft temperature, Tk - Foaming measurements - RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : Krafft point measurement - Foaming performance of single surfactants - Foaming performance for mixtures of surfactants En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o6dGIG_saG5-tscwTzyRS5izNaY_l_Rg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28133 [article]

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Detergents and cleanin products / Klaus Henning in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 32-41 Titre : Detergents and cleanin products : 9th International Fresenius Conference, 19-20 April 2016, Mainz, Germany, Part II Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Klaus Henning, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 32-41 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Colorants Consommateurs -- Préférences Détergents Enzymes Une enzyme est une protéine dotée de propriétés catalytiques. Pratiquement toutes les biomolécules capables de catalyser des réactions chimiques dans les cellules sont des enzymes ; certaines biomolécules catalytiques sont cependant constituées d'ARN et sont donc distinctes des enzymes : ce sont les ribozymes. Une enzyme agit en abaissant l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction chimique, ce qui accroît la vitesse de réaction. L'enzyme n'est pas modifiée au cours de la réaction. Les molécules initiales sont les substrats de l'enzyme, et les molécules formées à partir de ces substrats sont les produits de la réaction. Presque tous les processus métaboliques de la cellule ont besoin d'enzymes pour se dérouler à une vitesse suffisante pour maintenir la vie. Les enzymes catalysent plus de 5 000 réactions chimiques différentes2. L'ensemble des enzymes d'une cellule détermine les voies métaboliques qui peuvent avoir lieu dans cette cellule. L'étude des enzymes est appelée enzymologie. Les enzymes permettent à des réactions de se produire des millions de fois plus vite qu'en leur absence. Un exemple extrême est l'orotidine-5'-phosphate décarboxylase, qui catalyse en quelques millisecondes une réaction qui prendrait, en son absence, plusieurs millions d'années3,4. Comme tous les catalyseurs, les enzymes ne sont pas modifiées au cours des réactions qu'elles catalysent, et ne modifient pas l'équilibre chimique entre substrats et produits. Les enzymes diffèrent en revanche de la plupart des autres types de catalyseurs par leur très grande spécificité. Cette spécificité découle de leur structure tridimensionnelle. De plus, l'activité d'une enzyme est modulée par diverses autres molécules : un inhibiteur enzymatique est une molécule qui ralentit l'activité d'une enzyme, tandis qu'un activateur de cette enzyme l'accélère ; de nombreux médicaments et poisons sont des inhibiteurs enzymatiques. Par ailleurs, l'activité d'une enzyme décroît rapidement en dehors de sa température et de son pH optimums. Nettoyage Parfums Pigments Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : The 9th International Fresenius Conference on "Detergents and Cleaning Products" took place in the Atrium Hotel Mainz with almost 200 participants. The presentations reported that current trends and drivers in the European household care market are characterised by changing consumer behaviour towards energy and water saving, as well as by innovative product launch¬es. These market developments are attributable:to novel ingredients such as amylases, with improved efficacy for dishwashing detergents, and biocide booster for effective and sustainable product preservation, as well as special technologies such as the encapsulation of actives for laundry. Efficiency testing methods for manual and automatic dishwashing products, as well as for new washing technologies, were presented. Regulatory developments concerning the EU Ecolabel for six detergent product groups and new detergent product groups for the environmental label Blue Angel were described. The future impact of the Biocidal Products Regulation on formulators of cleaning and disinfecting products was discussed in detail. Note de contenu : - FROM ECO-EFFICIENCY TO ECO-EFFECTIVENESS : Eco-efficiency - Paradigm shift to eco-effectiveness - Cradle to cradleTM certification - RELEVANCE OF THE REACH EXPOSURE SCENARIOS - INFLUENCE OF THE BPR ON FORMULATORS OF CLEANING, DISINFECTING AND HOME CARE PRODUCTS - USE OF CHEMICALS AND MALODOUR IN DISHWASHERS - ENZYME PERFORMANCE OF DISWASHING DETERGENTS : Efficacy of amylase in dish washing - BIOCIDE BOOSTERS FOR PRESERVATIVES - COLOUR MAKES A DIFFERENCE - ENHANCED FRAGRANCE EFFICACY - FIGURES : 1. Top eco-effectiveness is obtained by the cradle to cradle principle : take-make-regenerate - 2. Communication of uses in the supply chain - 3. CSR/ES roadmap : example of tools - 4. Personal assessment of common praxis of the loadings of dishwashers - 5. Malodour experienced depending on the product used - 6. Structural formula of starch and positions of cleavage by amylases - 7. Different amylases can behave completely differently in cleaning performance on tiles soiled with starch - 8. Improvement of microbial performance of MIT/BIT by IMPABOOST biocide boosters for the conservation of light-duty detergents against bacteria - 9. Improvement of microbial performance of MIT/BIT by IMPABOOST biocide boosters for the conservation of light-duty detergents against fungi - 10. Colour and fragrance have an influence on consumers' purchasing decisions - TABLES : 1. Current status of the review programs - 2. Application properties of dyes and pigments En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_NyBFkI0QRVwWxKbokWuYYfFtWfkwKkm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28134 [article]

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Multifunctional sustainable zeta fractions from living plants / Michael Koganov in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 42-47 Titre : Multifunctional sustainable zeta fractions from living plants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Koganov, Auteur ; Olga Dueva-Koganov, Auteur ; Artyom Duev, Auteur ; Li Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 42-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules Biotechnologie Colloides Dispersions et suspensions Séparation (technologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Often, osmotic shock, oxidative stress and de-compartmentalization in dried plant cells negatively impact efficacy, bioavailability, functional properties, safety and reproducibility of conventional botanical extracts. This prompted the development of a sustainable solvent-free Zeta Fraction Technology (ZFT), which is based on scientific principles discovered by Van't-Hoff and Debye, and on Derjaguin-Laundau-Verwey-Overbeek (DLVO) theory. Progress in life sciences and in instrumentation for broadband dielectric spectrometry has contributed to the development of IFT. This technology includes : collection of living plants with maximum metabolic activity ; separation of relatively stable intracellular colloidal dispersion (lCD) from cell walls ; treatment of ICD to engage particular components of the dispersed phase and continuous phase in specific interactions by changing the balance between repulsive and attractive forces ; and separation of ICD to different Zeta Fractions. Plant examples including Sacred Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), Tea Plant (Camellia sihensis). Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium) and Sage (Salvia officinalis) demonstrate that ZFT allows targeting multiple pathways with a single ingredient, improving safety by removing undesirable components and chemicals of concern, all white resulting in minimal environmental impact and waste. ZFT utilizes the underexplored potential of living plants and may be used in combination with existing extraction technologies to achieve effective volume reduction. Note de contenu : - Zeta fraction technology - Sustainability - Safety and reproducibility - Multifunctionality - FIGURES : 1. Yield curve parameters for intracellular colloidal dispersion from living sage (Salvia officinalis) - 2. Debye equation and dielectric constants (real component) of ICDs from various plants selectef fro 14 families - 3. Stability of colloidal dispersion and effect of dielectric constant change - 4. Distribution of living plant cell components among zeta fractions - 5. The environmental impact of producing ingredient from living tea plant (Camellia sinensis) using the ZFT process versus conventional solvent extraction - 6. Compositions of zeta fractions from Camellia sinensis versus traditional infusions - 7. Zeta fraction from feverfew is free from chemicals of concern (parthenolide) - TABLE : In vitro multifunctional properties of zeta fraction from Nelumbo nucifera En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OOLm3TTdODQuIfde-peYCb5Haq1elRPw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28135 [article]

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A benefit-sharing case on an active from the amazonian biodiversity / Daniela Azevedo in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 48-52 Titre : A benefit-sharing case on an active from the amazonian biodiversity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniela Azevedo, Auteur ; Christelle Graizeau, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 48-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Collagène Cosmétiques Développement durable Mélanine Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since 2000, Beraca has implemented its Socio-Biodiversity Enhancement Program that aims to develop the sustainable use of non-timber resources by the people living in the Amazon region, consequently preserving the forest. Transforming seeds and fruits harvested by local families into oils, butters, actives and exfoliants, Beraca's benefit-sharing actions comply with the Nagoya protocol requirements that were ratified by the European Parliament in March 2014. In collaboration with the Copedic cooperative, a specific program was developed in the north of Breves, Parà, on the island of Marajo in Brazil. They supply Beraca with the pracaxi seeds used to develop Beracare BBA - Bio-Behenic Active System. This unique active ingredient from the Amazonian biodiversity contributes to the development of 40 members and more than 150 associates from the Copedic cooperative and reinforces the wild harvesting role in reducing the population migration from their native community. In parallel, it offers to the cosmetic industry an oily active with pair conditioning properties as well as skin-brightening and anti-aging benefits. Note de contenu : - BERACA'S BENEFIT-SHARING PROGRAM WITH THE COPEDIC COMMUNITY : Copedic and Beraca partnership - Measured benefits for Copedic - BERACARE BBA - BIO-BEHENIC ACTIVE SYSTEM : Hair care benefits - Skin care benefits - FIGURES : 1. A community on the stand of Marajo in the north of Breves, Para-Brazil - 2. Pracaxi seeds and the pod - 3. Conditioning effect evaluated in comparison and in combination with a traditional quaternary conditioning agent - 4. BBA effect on skin explants' melanin content after 9 days of treatment with UVA radiation. *p<0.05 compared to UV control. Positive control : alpha-arbutin at 3% - 5. Collagen network image analysis on living human-skin explants after 9 days of treatment with Beracare BBA at 3% - 6. Beracare BBA effect on skin explants' hyaluronic acid content in the epidemic and dermic layers after 9 days treatment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aDsB4scvw47hvffG5VuA26vDb4Gvaoxg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28136 [article]

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Surfactants, polymers, fragrances and more / Fred Schambil in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 54-58 Titre : Surfactants, polymers, fragrances and more : Annual general meeting of the raw materials specialist group Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fred Schambil, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 54-58 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aloe vera et constituants Biofilms Congrès et conférences Désodorisation Détergents Eau -- Pollution Essais (technologie) Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Matières plastiques -- Déchets Nettoyage Neuromarketing Le neuromarketing est l’application des neurosciences cognitives au marketing et à la communication. Le but de cette discipline émergente est de mieux comprendre les comportements des consommateurs grâce à l'identification des mécanismes cérébraux qui interviennent lors d'un achat ou face à une publicité. Le neuromarketing désigne deux concepts étroitement liés : 1. l'étude, via les neurosciences, du fonctionnement du cerveau humain lorsque soumis à des stimuli qui peuvent être des marques, des produits, des odeurs, ou des publicités, 2. l'amélioration des outils de persuasion. Parfums Polymères Produits nettoyants Résonance magnétique nucléaire Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : On 2nd December 2016, the Annual General Meeting of the Raw Materials Specialist Group (former West Regional Group) took place in Gütersloh under the leadership of the group's Chairman, Kai Mann (Brenntag GmbH). Six presentations examined current issues in the fields of laundry detergents, cleaning products, cosmetics and perfumery. The focus was primarily on surfactants, biofilms, microplastics, soil-release polymers, NMR analysis and validation of fragrance-containing formulations. A further presentation explored the opportunities and benefits of brain research for marketing campaigns. Note de contenu : - SURFACTANTS AND POLYMERS : Formulated surfactant system for home care and l&l - Evolution of customised soil-release polymers for detergents of various kinds - ANALYSIS AND TEST METHODS : Qualitative and quantitative NMR analysis of detergents with special emphasis on raw materials - Validation and evaluation of the performance of fragrance-containing formulations - BIOFILMS AND MICROPLASTIC IN THE ENVIRONMENT : Reducing or preventing the formation of biofilms - Microplastic in the environment - Definition, background and influence on laundry detergents, cleaning products and cosmetics - NEUROMARKETING - FIGURES : 1. Soil release test results with TexCare SRN 260 under cold wash conditions with dirty motor oil on pre-washed fabrics - 2. NMR spectrum of aloe vera - 3. Sensorically determined performance losses due to ageing of air freshener formulations. Statistical validation carried out at the points marked in the circle - 4. Standardised stages of biofilm formation - 5. The significance of human emotion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZATmm3HhN3m5CgeEXc1JcUgQf43yVlkm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28137 [article]

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