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Easy formulation, demanding ingredients / Achim Friedrich in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014)
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Titre : Easy formulation, demanding ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Achim Friedrich, Auteur ; Petra Biehl, Auteur ; Frank Unger, Auteur ; Jan Marian von Hof, Auteur ; Jürgen Meyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 33-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Emulsifiants
Ester de polyglycérol
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have shown that although being well known for a long time, polyglyceryl esters still have potential for the development of novel and improved solutions combining true sustainability and excellent performance. The innovative oil-in-water emulsifier polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate was developed to deal with today's formulation challenges especially regarding low-viscous systems like lotions or sprays. The emulsifier is able to stabilize various systems containing demanding ingredients like water-soluble UV filters or electrolytes. It further tolerates organic acids at low pH values which is a crucial requirement for natural formulations. Its overall performance in ail the mentioned systems is outstanding. Thus, the emulsifier polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate is a versatile and flexible tool for formulators to realise cosmetic products for many different applications. Besides efficient emulsion stabilisation this completely natural emulsifier can contribute to more sustainable emulsions. Furthermore, it supports light skin feel, mildness and moisturisation properties of cosmetic formulations. Note de contenu : - Structure and properties
- Moisturisation effect
- Emulsion stabilisation studies
- Versatile application profile
- Table 1 : Composition and processing of the low-viscous sun care test lotion (SPF 50) in combination with the insect repellent active (System A)
- Table 2 : Detailed stability test results for low-viscous sun care (System A)
- Table 3 : Composition of further low-viscous emulsion test (System B-D)
- Table 4 : Summarised results of the performance comparison tests (Systems B to D)
- Formulation 1 : Sun care lotion SPF 50+ with insect repellent
- Formulation 2 : Natural cooling body lotion
- Formulation 3 : Natural make-up foundation
- Formulation 4 :Body energizing lotionPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20777
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014) . - p. 33-37[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16107 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside / Sebastian Johannes Beckers in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)
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Titre : Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sebastian Johannes Beckers, Auteur ; Achim Friedrich, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 40-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ester de polyglycérol
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Stabilisants (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Motivated by the hype about lamellar emulsions, we wanted to take a closer look at the microstructure of modern cosmetic emulsions stabilized by polyglycerol ester emulsifiers. Previously, we have developed a structure model of an emulsion stabilized by a polyglycerol ester emulsifier and consistency enhancers by using a number of highly specialized (e.g. scattering) methods. According to these results, the oil droplets are surrounded by several, irregularly spaced bilayers consisting of emulsifier and consistency enhancer. We now have extended this work to four alternative polyglycerol ester emulsifiers by using Cryo-TEM to study the microstructure of model emulsions. In none of the cases there was evidence for areas of stacked bilayers, i.e. a lamellar phase or multilamellar vesicles, which could be recognized by birefringence (e.g. Maltese crosses) in polarization microcopy if they were present. Such lamellar phases or multilamellar vesicles can be generated by overdosing the emulsifier, or could be a consequence of incomplete mixing. Therefore, polarization microcopy results can hardly be an indication for superior application performance and should not be confused with claim substantiation. Note de contenu : - What are "lamellar emulsions" ?
- Molecular architecture determines the types of surfactant aggregate
- What are "lamellar emulsions" ?
- A deep dive into the structure of o/w-emulsions
- How general are these findings ?
- Table 1 : Composition of the model formulations usedEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JL2FPEpk72Y5haOaLVqKS2Bg25aOCO7z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37195
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 40-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23295 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural alternatives for emulsification using oil technology / Mchem Simmonds in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)
[article]
Titre : Natural alternatives for emulsification using oil technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mchem Simmonds, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ester de polyglycérol
Micelles
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the cosmetics and personal care industry, there is increasing demand for natural, green and sustainable ingredients. Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the effect their products can have on the environment and on their skin. These trends are driving ingredient and product development, particularly in the area of emulsifiers. In this article, we will be discussing what these changes in trends and demands mean for the manufacturer and consumer, the chemistry of emulsification ; and what natural emulsifier alternatives are available using oil technologies. Note de contenu : - Market trends
- The chemistry of emulsification : Creaming - Sedimentation - Flocculation - Coalescence - Phase inversion - Ostwald ripening
- MANUFACTURE OF EMULSIONS
- NATURAL ALTERNATIVES FOR EMULSIFICATION USING OIL TECHNOLOGY
- FIGURES : 1. Emulsifier micelle o/w structure - 2. Emulsion instability - 3. Polyglycerol ester synthesisEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/187wDpMaJPamXs9plxXXJGrS_NgZKI2Xo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28128
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 8-13[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18766 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural raw and active ingredients for green concepts / Bernd Ziolkowsky in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)
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Titre : Natural raw and active ingredients for green concepts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Ziolkowsky, Auteur ; H. Ziolkowsky, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 60-74 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras
Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Emulsifiants
Ester de polyglycérol
Esters
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits naturels
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Production of mild, censorial textures from natural raw materials for green concepts
- Polyglycerol fatty acid esters : Plurol diisostearique - Plurol stearique
- Sugar ester : Surfhope sugar ester
- PEG-free emulsifier : Emulium kappa
- Bi-gel : Emulfree line
- Antiaging actives : Stone extracts for personal care products
- Organics : Fresh cells - Gatuline Expression (7)
- Formulation concepts
- FIGURES : Formula : Polyglycerol ester - Formula : Sugar ester - 1. Chemical composition - 2. Several fatty acid chains - 3. How to formulate a D-phase gel ? - 4. D-phase gel characteristics - 6. Bi-gel technology - 7. Increase of shear stability - 8. Stabilisation of aqueous gel viscosity - 9. Emulfree CBG or P ? - 10. Emulfree line : Two reference - 11. Reaction of prolyl hydroxylases - 12. In the plant - 13. Formulation conceptsPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30983
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20074 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A naturally derived polyglyceryl ester : The best of both worlds / Victor Low in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 10 (10/2017)
[article]
Titre : A naturally derived polyglyceryl ester : The best of both worlds Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Victor Low, Auteur ; Christoph Kolano, Auteur ; Stefan Benn, Auteur ; Maria Mihhailova, Auteur ; Marlitt Jönsson, Auteur ; Thomas Willers, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 32-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants
Ester de polyglycérol
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Moussants
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The need for mild surfactants which are known irritants to skin and cause damage to hair. The demand for "natural" chemistries further drives up the need for alternative surfactant technologies. To meet these demands, we have created a non-ionic surfactant called Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester based on our polyglyceryl ester technology. This naturally-derived polyglyceryl ester offers the best of both worlds : improved quality of foam whist exhibiting a very low irritation profile. The following article compares the foaming properties, surfactancy attributes, and irritation profile of Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester aqainst typically established surfactants found in the marketplace. Foam studies were performed with the recently launched KRUSS RMFA, the first instrument for fully analysis according to the Ross-Miles standard. The performance results show Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester is a highly performing surfactant with great foaming and a very low irritation profile on skin. Note de contenu : - Surfactant basic properties
- In vitro epidermal and epiocular irritation study
- Surface tension study
- Study on foaming properties - Foamability and foam structure
- Versatile surfactant chemistry - Formulation guidance
- FIGURES : 1. Pictogram of common personal care applications with foam properties - 2. Surface tension analysis comparing Polyaldo TM 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 laurate and decyl glucoside (APG) - 3. a) Sketch of Ross-Miles foam analysis before and after foam generating process. The colored arrows indicate total height H, liquid height H, and net foam height H, as detected by the instrument. b) Picture of the KRÜSS RMFA for automated foam analysis according to the Ross-Miles standard - 4. Comparison of the net foam height and the total height as function of time for all three surfactants investigated. The arrows indicate the discrete time steps t0, t1, t2, t3 as defined in the ASTM standard. The values at those time steps are automatically read out by the KRÜSS ADVANCE software. Solid line = foam height, dashed line = liquid height, dotted line = total height - 5 Comparison of ASTM standard result parameters for all three samples investigated at 25°C and 49°C - 6. Comparison of the maximum foam density of all three surfactants investigated at 25°C and 49°C - 7. Upper panel : time dependence of mean bubble area in µm2 (dashed lines) and two dimensional bubble density in bubble count per mm2 (solid lines). Lower panel : live images of the initial foam structure recorded 100 seconds after foaming (time indicated by blue line) for all three surfactants investigated at 25°C
- TABLES : 1. Basic properties of Polyaldo TM 10-1-CC, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, and decyl glucoside, n.d. stands for non-detectable - 2. Results from an in vitreo MatTek Epiderm TM irritation study (SIT) comparing Polyaldo T% 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and other benchmark surfactants - 4. Quantitative surface tension analysis comparing Polyaldo TM 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and decyl glucoside - 5. Baby shampoo prototype formulation with Polyaldo TM 10-1-CCPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29274
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 10 (10/2017) . - p. 32-42[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19291 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible PEG-free solubilisation via naturally-derived esters / Christian Hartung in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 4 (09/2016)
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