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Commentary and information a testing industry / Chris McLeod in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 13-16 Titre : Commentary and information a testing industry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris McLeod, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 13-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Marketing Etude in vivo Evaluation Tests cutanés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : White it may seem cynical or flippant of me to approach this point from a marketing perspective — seemingly professing the similar objective performance of ail creams that subjective ability merely depends on the epistemological background of each consumer's belief in which brand, product or ingredient best works for them — I feel this would be unfair and untrue. But this is also not the point of this article. What I hope to have commented upon is the cosmetic industry's inherent relation to ail areas of the global business environment whether it be a region's economic, legislative or social standing in a two-way relationship. And thus, because of the way in which consumer activity is affecting the personal care industry and vice versa, it is pivotai to deive into the minute details that ultimately affect the larger picture for a product, brand and company's business success and the way this affects the macro-environment in conjunction with ail other competitors. And so understanding the consumer product testing process, from how and when to use formulation-led bibliographic claims compared to in vivo clinical assessments, is decisive in being able to budget and plan a single SKU's launch as well as to forecast the intended demographic's behaviour in response to the brand's market angle and approach; furthermore this understanding and proactivity will allow a company to internally audit the path of their implemented strategy. Thus, finally, we can see how mastering the understanding of the interchange between testing procedures and a product's advertising claims will inevitably allow for the most efficient and honed product to be launched to the correct market to maximise profit and brand positioning in the quest for enhancing a company's foothold in our ever-growing and ever-popular global industry. Note de contenu : - A need for legislation - cosmetics regulation 2013 - Consumer product testing : an understanding - The tests vs. the market vs. the budget En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SHlrzzyzf8qV61d1aqcGvM68pSUPDclm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18764 [article]

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The use of micro beads in personal care / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 18-25 Titre : The use of micro beads in personal care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 18-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Matières plastiques Microbilles Polylactique, Acide L'acide polylactique (anglais : polylactic acid, abrégé en PLA) est un polymère entièrement biodégradable utilisé dans l'alimentation pour l'emballage des Å“ufs et plus récemment pour remplacer les sacs et cabas en plastiques jusqu'ici distribués dans les commerces. Il est utilisé également en chirurgie où les sutures sont réalisées avec des polymères biodégradables qui sont décomposés par réaction avec l’eau ou sous l’action d’enzymes. Il est également utilisé pour les nouveaux essais de stent biodégradable. Le PLA peut-être obtenu à partir d'amidon de maïs, ce qui en fait la première alternative naturelle au polyéthylène (le terme de bioplastique est utilisé). En effet, l'acide polylactique est un produit résultant de la fermentation des sucres ou de l'amidon sous l'effet de bactéries synthétisant l'acide lactique. Dans un second temps, l'acide lactique est polymérisé par un nouveau procédé de fermentation, pour devenir de l'acide polylactique. Ce procédé conduit à des polymères avec des masses molaires relativement basses. Afin de produire un acide polylactique avec des masses molaires plus élevées, l'acide polylactique produit par condensation de l'acide lactique est dépolymérisé, produisant du lactide, qui est à son tour polymérisé par ouverture de cycle. Le PLA est donc l’un de ces polymères, dans lequel les longues molécules filiformes sont construites par la réaction d’un groupement acide et d’une molécule d’acide lactique sur le groupement hydroxyle d’une autre pour donner une jonction ester. Dans le corps, la réaction se fait en sens inverse et l’acide lactique ainsi libéré est incorporé dans le processus métabolique normal. On obtient un polymère plus résistant en utilisant l'acide glycolique, soit seul, soit combiné à l’acide lactique. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microplastics' are used extensively across personal care products to give exfoliating, sensorial and visual attribute to formulations. Microplastics are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, from micronised spherical powders (used for sensory and structural properties) through to larger shaped particles (used for exfoliation and/or visual effects). The most commonly used microplastic is polyethylene. In recent years the potentially negative of micro beads on the environment through it accumulation has been explored by various scientific groups. This has led to some companies deciding to remove microplastics from their formulations. The aim of this report is to explore the scientific evidence, obtain the opinions of suppliers of microplastics and also look at potential alternative technologies. Firstly, and importantly, we need to create clear definitions to avoid incorrect generalisations and put the concerns discussed in this article into perspective. The concerns being discussed refer to 'micro beads' and not the generic term of 'microplastics'. Micro beads are small plastic particles which in relation to personal care are used to create decorative and exfoliating particles for inclusion in a wide range of products including shower gels, body wash and other cleansing formats. The reason it is important to separate 'micro beads' from the general description of 'microplastics' is due to the extensive use of micronised plastic powders in personal care (such powders would fall under the definition of 'microplastic' but are very different in form and environmental impact from micro beads). Micronised plastic powders, including polyethylene and PTFE, are widely used for their sensorial attributes in skin care and colour cosmetic formulations. We all know too well how concerns in the media can snowball and lead to trends in marketing and consumer messages, and how important it is to be clear from the outset. Note de contenu : - Unilever's decision to phase out micro beads - What are the reported issues with micro beads ? : Biodegradation of micro beads - Ingestion by marine organisms - The small size of micro beads - Response from micro bead suppliers - Alternatives to micro beads ? - Polylactic acid : a potential alternatives to micronised plastics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H__ZaztMyGNzA6K6RC8reEXfdivv0wce/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18765 [article]

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Innovative ingredients : safety and compliance / Chris Brennan in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 23-25 Titre : Innovative ingredients : safety and compliance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Brennan, Auteur ; Lorna Kettle, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 23-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Innovations Cosmétiques -- Législation Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Cosmétovigilance Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Innovation is key to the successful development of novel cosmetics products. Through innovation, toothpastes have been developed with the introduction of fluorides and antibacterial ingredients to prevent tooth decay and plaque reducing mouth rinses and substances to gently clean sensitive teeth. Other examples include effective sunscreens developed to offer broad UV (both UVA and UVB) protection and contain a combination of nano-sized mineral (e.g. titanium dioxide) and organic UV filters to offer high levels of protection, while innovation in make-up products has allowed light reflecting products to conceal shadows and blemishes. These innovative products, and many more, have been driven by the introduction of novel ingredients and the evolution of formulation science. However with the use of innovative new ingredients, the cosmetics industry is constantly challenged to develop safe, effective, and compliant products that meet the requirements of both legislation and consumers. The main challenge to innovation is that, while something 'new' can be exciting and attractive, it does not always follow that 'new' is synonymous with safe and effective. This leads to the requirement for comprehensive testing before the market will accept it. Current trends in personal care product ingredients include increasing popularity of the use of nanomaterials and botanicals, and also the development of 'cosmeceuticals' ingredients with bordering pharmacological activity. Note de contenu : - Upholdings the 3Rs - Toxicology - Communication - Nanomaterials - Botanicals En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PdFOh5Hpb1A7hKTP06YM92q6Q8YcNLGG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18768 [article]

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Skin-identical ceramide for enhanced skin care / Mike Farwick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 27-30 Titre : Skin-identical ceramide for enhanced skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mike Farwick, Auteur ; Saskia Klee-Laquai, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is a highly complex tissue acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack. It plays a crucial role in the protection against dehydration and the control of body temperature.' This barricade is provided by the 'horny layer' (stratum corneum [SC]), representing the outermost layer of the epidermis. The horny layer is a thin inert, water-retaining barrier which both regulates the moisture content of the skin and protects it against external influences. Due to its structure it is often compared to a brick wall in which the non-viable corneocytes are embedded like bricks in a matrix of lipids ('mortar').2 The lipid mixture of the mortar is assembled into densely packed lamellar structures mainly consisting of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. On a weight basis, these lipids constitute approximately 47% ceramides, 24% cholesterol, 11% free fatty acids and 18% cholesterol esters.3 The proper physical organisation of the lipid bilayer structure is crucial for an effective skin barrier and this is provided by a lipid lamellar assembly in a tightly packed orthorhombic configuration. The lipid environment of the stratum corneum is an essential factor for maintaining the skin's equilibrium. As a result of age, health or environmental conditions, both the amount of lipids and in the lipid composition change, leading to a weakening of the barrier function. Ceramides, as the major epidermal lipid components, are valuable components of skin care products, since the topical application of ceramide-containing products can replenish low levels of stratum corneum lipids. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13pvpSsz5KlUbjZaEUTbjzS8JcKgLSjDY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18769 [article]

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Natural wax : a problem solver in lipstick / Uwe Zimmermann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 32-33 Titre : Natural wax : a problem solver in lipstick Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Uwe Zimmermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 32-33 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Oil and was incompatibility insufficient oil-binding capacity - Loss of shape : insufficient firmness - Undesired crystal formation : blooming - When the size is no longer right : too much shrinkage or too little Formulation 1 : Lipstick for cold and warm countries En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HSSL89ISRPEM1wp0NWKxN31Yn5yKQzvR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18770 [article]

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Industry flocks to largest Paris show in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 36-40 Titre : Industry flocks to largest Paris show Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 36-40 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Innovations Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits nouveaux Recherche Salons professionnels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An in-cosmetics held in Paris always provokes an extra sense of anticipation. The cosmetics capital of the world attracts the big names and big numbers, and the scale of the 2013 in-cosmetics held from 16-18 April at the Paris expo Porte de Versailles, proved that in abundance. The organisers of the event said that the 2013 edition was the best attended in its history with 9,400 unique visitors (60% from outside France) to the French capital for in-cosmetics, a 20% increase on the previous record for visitor numbers, and the content of the show lived up to the magnitude. More than 650 exhibitors were at the show, including over 100 companies who were exhibiting for the first time. Chosen to tie in with 2013's status as the UN's International Year of Water Co-operation, the theme of the Paris event was H20. Visitors were invited to follow a trail around the hall that highlighted the new technologies, formulations and product concepts currently employing water innovatively. A 'Testing and Regulation Zone' also housed first-time exhibitors specialising in this increasingly important sector of the personal care industry offering advice and support on cosmetics safety, efficacy, claims, quality and regulatory compliance. The new features were rounded off by the 'Fragrance in Cosmetics Zone', a dedicated area where exhibitors specialising in the science and art of fragrance were concentrated. Sandrine Perraud, marketing manager at Mane, who were based in the new zone, commented : "The show went really well for us and surpassed our expectations. We have made a lot of new contacts and it has also provided us with the opportunity to discuss our entire product range with existing customers who may not have previously been aware of what we can offer. A really positive experience all round." En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JydikknP-du3SQqIuldxdYFVyW8WqsLu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18771 [article]

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Physiochemical cleansing properties of soapnut / Karthikeyan S. in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 43-45 Titre : Physiochemical cleansing properties of soapnut Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karthikeyan S., Auteur ; Ashwini Gooty, Auteur ; Jennie Teague, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 43-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Cosmétiques Détergents Emulsions -- Stabilité Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Noix de lavage pH Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The demand for natural and green beauty products continues to grow, as do consumer expectations for effective results. The trend towards natural ingredients is growing with nature-derived surfactants becoming increasingly more desirable by both the formulator and the end user. This has been a graduai upward trend attributable to several factors, including a desire for sustainability, increased media coverage of the potential health side effects of some ingredients, and the demand for manufacturers to lower their environmental footprint. Natural soapnut extract meets the requirements of a surfactant while providing many additional benefits. Natural surfactants are carbohydrate-based. They are plant-derived and use renewable resources, are readily biodegradable and do not add to the Earth's CO2 burden. One example is Vivimed's Nisarg Soapnut Extract, a very mild, biodegradable and skin friendly surfactant. Synthetic surfactants can be produced from oleo chemicals such as palm oil and are often called natural, while those derived from petrochemicals are synthetic. These types of surfactants can be harsh in their concentrated form giving rise to skin and scalp irritation. The type of surfactants formulators use has changed over time. For example traditional Ayurvedic treatments involve ail natural surfactants. As time has progressed formulators have moved more towards synthetic surfactants, however today's consumer is more aware of the irritating potential and environmental impact of synthetic materials and are more readily considering products which use natural surfactants derived from plants. Figure 1 shows how the surfactant trend has progressed from natural to synthetic and is now shirting back towards naturally derived products. Note de contenu : - pH - Foam height - Foam stabilité - Mildness - Detergency - Performance comparison - Formulation used for performance comparison En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gw5Lx7lUOaa_btZLM18-F1x2sDKkvXmT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18772 [article]

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Fragrance stability : Common problems avoided / Penny Williams in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 47-48 Titre : Fragrance stability : Common problems avoided Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Penny Williams, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 47-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Décoloration Odeurs -- Stabilité Parfums -- Coloration Parfums -- Stabilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Perfum and cosmetic products have some common themes but when put otgether they are unique. Designing the right fragrance for the right product requires thought and communication. Considered product design can avoid potential problems and any remaining issues can usually be overcome. Note de contenu : - Discolouration - Colouration - Colour changes - Other visual effects - Stability testing - Perfume odour stability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-rUi_3dxTf5aPnjZ7C67q_P9uboLPshH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18773 [article]

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Colour cosmetic trends call for specialty silicones / Isabelle Van Reeth in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 51-55 Titre : Colour cosmetic trends call for specialty silicones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur ; Stewart Long, Auteur ; Yasue Kanzaki, Auteur ; Hélène Dihang, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 51-55 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillant à lèvres Cosmétiques Couleur Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's colour cosmetic industry thrives in the midst of changing demographics, rapidly evolving trends, and a fashion-conscious public. Never has the colour market directed its appeal to such a wide range of consumers across the globe. From teens to an older populace, emerging economies, and a burgeoning working population — and including mass market to premium products — even those created to represent the cachet of professional makeup artists are part of the mix. And never have consumers asked so much — in terms of intense colour, differentiated products, lasting wear, comfort, and all-out performance. Driven by the desire for healthy, beautiful looks balanced by convenience; guided by safety, sustainability and environmental awareness; and shaped by regional habits and customisation, consumer needs and wants are diverse. It is a tall order. But in a $60 billion global colour market' driven by creativity and technoloe, specialty silicones have earned a reputation as versatile and beneficial materials in colour cosmetics, both for their multifunctional properties and their performance. Note de contenu : - High gloss is 'in' - Evaluation of phenyl fluid in lip gloss - Evaluation of phenyl fluid in solid lip colour - Low viscosity for light feel, even colour - Urban trend excites the colour market - Formulation 1 : Glossy liquid rouge for lips - Formulation 2 : Comfort stay liquid foundation - Formulation 3 : Slow rouge - Formulation 4 : Colour karma En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IhCAKWOfIlnvX3rVZrrhs8o5UEZz1E1t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18774 [article]

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EU prohibition on animal testing - potential concerns / Ray Boughton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 57-59 Titre : EU prohibition on animal testing - potential concerns Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ray Boughton, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 57-59 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Expérimentation animale -- Législation -- Europe Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : On 11 March this year (2013) the EU introduced a full marketing ban on cosmetics, either in their entirety or containing ingredients, that have been tested on animais in order to evidence the safety of them in respect of the current Cosmetics Directive (76/768/EC)1 and upcoming Cosmetics Regulation (1223/2009).2 This prohibition was set forth in the 7th Amendment (2003/15/EC)3 to the Cosmetics Directive, and is included in the Cosmetic Regulation as well. A proviso was included in the 7th Amendment that this deadline could be pushed back should suitable replacements for animal testing have not been found. At this point alternatives for many of the endpoints of concern have not been identified, but the EU has pressed ahead with the prohibition. Such a prohibition is somewhat at odds with the currently proscribed legal requirements for data to be considered when compiling a safety report and conducting a safety assessment. The conflict is even more evident when one considers the guidance notes outlined by the SCCS on the safety assessment process.4 The prohibition further raises potential concerns in relation to the availability of suitable data on which a safety assessment could be based. In this article we shall first consider the history of the safety assessment as applicable to cosmetics and the task faced by individuals undertaking such a responsibility. We shall then move to look at the prohibition of animal testing and the alternative test methods currently validated for use (as well as discuss the numerous endpoints for which full alternative replacement tests are not yet available). Lastly we consider the conflicts between the legal requirements for safety assessment compared to the prohibition on animal testing and discuss the potential concerns these raise for a safety assessor. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B38-uvUt5TRQcAwvMW_tr6s1yVZ22kdh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18775 [article]

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Luminescence increased by plant-derived lipophilic active / Alain Thibodeau in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 61-64 Titre : Luminescence increased by plant-derived lipophilic active Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alain Thibodeau, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 61-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosméceutique Cosmétiques Evaluation Luminescence Peau noire -- Soins et hygiène Soins de beauté Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In addition to wrinkles and sagging skin, age spots are also considered hallmarks of ageing. UV-induced damage and its accumulation with time underly the formation and the appearance of age spots. Indeed, a time-dependent progression of the histological morphology of age spot lesions has recently been described using reflectance confocal microscopy. The involvement of UV as a causal agent in the formation of age spots also appears to draw in pro-inflammatory pathways.'''° As per its clinically demonstrated reduction of UV-induced erythema, the age spot/luminescence active (activoil spotless) most likely down regulates the inflammatory cascade triggered upon sun exposure that can ultimately participate in age spot formation. The use of a formulation containing 2% Activoil Spotless succeeded to significantly reduce the appearance of age spots in placebo-controlled, split-face trials and the effect was observed after 30 days. Results obtained with the Mexameter (melanin¬specific) were somewhat comparable to those obtained by measuring the ITA° (not specific to any chromophore) with the spectrophotometer. This observation could reveal that the reduction in age spot appearance is mostly due to a reduction in melanin pigment (decrease in synthesis or an increase in degradation). However, even though the contribution of other pigments such as lipofuscin to age spots formation remains to be demonstrated, it cannot be excluded that Activoil Spotless may simultaneously act on pigments other than melanin when reducing age spot appearance. The clinical action of Activoil Spotless is not limited to age spots but also extends to skin luminescence. A significant improvement in the spectrophotometry L* parameter was observed already after 30 days and this action progressed up to Day 60. This increase in the parameter L" also reveals a unique anti-ageing action for Activoil Spotless that can translate into a 'youth gain' of up to 10 and 20 years in terms of skin luminescence. Since multiple pathways appear to join their actions in forming age spots, using an ingredient such as Activoil Spotless itself made of a combination of stabilised lipophilic active components emerges as being an ideal cosmeceutical tool in reducing and preventing the appearance of age spots and improving skin luminescence. Note de contenu : - Rancimat test - Evaluation of age spot melanin pigment intensity - Evaluation of global colour intensity of age spots - individual typology angle (ITA°) - Evaluation of skin luminescence - UV-induced skin erythema - Statistic En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lvgVYeDmH_VtzTcqoXAzne1lQ20H0hfR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18776 [article]

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Ingredients focus : colour cosmetics / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 67-68 Titre : Ingredients focus : colour cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 67-68 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorimétrie Couleur Ingrédients cosmétiques Pigments à effets spéciaux Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Before skin care or hair care, colour cosmetics were probably the first type of cosmetics to be used by human beings, with proof that ingredients such as kohl and henna were used by the Ancient Egyptians. It seems there is an inherent desire for people to express their personality through use of colour on their skin and hair, and the only thing to have changed through time is an improvement in the technology available to do it, both in terms of safety and quality of effect. Modem cosmetics have an enormous range of colours and effect pigments for formulators to use, as well as polymers to aid dispersion and equipment for testing the hues of colour cosmetics. Trends in colour cosmetics are forever developing and moving across continents, with BB creams being a recent example of a trend moving back and forth from East to West. But as with many aspects of personal care, the classic products will generally persist and remain popular regardless of fashion's whims. This article is an overview of some of the latest technology on the market to help formulators create the next timeless classics. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GMQNVcXmY7LkQoGu-W4bYAuuSkulOYs9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18777 [article]

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Silanol technology : A powerful tool for skin care / Emmanuel Coste in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 70-74 Titre : Silanol technology : A powerful tool for skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emmanuel Coste, Auteur ; Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 70-74 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Silanols Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silanol technology results in a family of cosmetic compounds in which ail members share a core of organic silicium (silicon). The role of this organic silicium is to ensure an optimal skin architecture by interacting with structure proteins (collagen and elastin fibres, GAGs...) within the dermis tissue. Because of this structure optimisation and of its ability to stimulate skin cells' metabolism, organic silicium provides the skin with global benefits (hydration, firmness, etc.). However, in order to maintain this biological activity, it is essential to maintain this organic silicium core as a monomer. In order to do so, another molecule that may itself have some cosmetic benefits, is used to stabilise the silicium in its monomeric active form. On top of the added benefits of the organic silicium and the molecule used to stabilise it, there is a real synergy as the silicium will be able to improve the penetration, the bioavailability and therefore the activity of the compound it is stabilised with for further benefits. Note de contenu : - Silanol technology - Methylsilanetriol's effect on the skin - Synergy between the methylsilanetriol and its stabilising compound - Benefits for the skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D3BxG67JAO4aXXgnp1fVQGY28HYqkRuB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18778 [article]

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Successful implementation of cosmetic testing / Manfred Bayer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 76-77 Titre : Successful implementation of cosmetic testing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manfred Bayer, Auteur ; Gerrit Schlippe, Auteur ; Werner Voss, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 76-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermatologie Evaluation Mesure Qualité -- Contrôle Tests cutanés Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dermatological tests in accordance with scientific criteria are of decisive value for the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. Latest alterations in the European legislation emphasise this fact. Whether a cosmetic product is well tolerated or causes irritations or allergic reactions must be proven by dermatological tests. The range of test methods starts with simple questionnaires and ends with complex physiological measurements. The quality of dermatological reports directly depends on the seriousness of the commissioned dermatologists. Pitfalls occur whenever non qualified scientific results are generously used for advertising campaigns like 'dermatologically tested', tested', 'hypo-allergen' etc. Additionally a lot of reports are scientifically insufficient. Dermatological reports on cosmetics thérefore must be valid in scientific methods and practical execution. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kv8U-Rm3-47DCnZpBBS6h1S9AwnzH9tG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18779 [article]

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Cosmetogenomics decodes hydrating action in cells / Carla Perez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) Titre : Cosmetogenomics decodes hydrating action in cells Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carla Perez, Auteur ; Corinne Stoltz, Auteur ; Sandy Dumont, Auteur ; Laetitia Cattuzzato, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Cosmétogénomique Dermatologie Eau Hydratation Lipides Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Protéines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hydration is composed of two distinct but complementary domains. On one side we have the regulation of hydric reserves and their circulation within different layers of the skin, and on the other the synthesis of lipidic substances and essential proteins, as well as their organisation to avoid excessive water loss. Polyvalent hydrating active ingredients are rare. Most often, active ingredients are combined to provide this dual functionality. Aquaxyl (three Seppic patents) is able to meet both these needs, by supplying both humectant and a restructuring effect. Furthermore, through cosmetogenomics, we have been able to demonstrate at molecular level, its intimate mechanism of action in the epidermis. Note de contenu : - PROVEN EFFICACY - WHY COSMETOGENOMICS : - STUDY PROTOCOL - RESULTS AT MOLECULAR LEVEL : Circulation and water reserves - Reinforcement of the barrier effect - Essential lipids En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zEDLnr4gCfAhHok-ugorxGiMskbDPW47/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18780 [article]

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Beneficial ingredients for natural formulations / Jennifer Allen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) Titre : Beneficial ingredients for natural formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Allen, Auteur ; Ella-Louise Ceraulo, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Cires Exfoliants Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : People's perception of natural is an interesting one — namely if it is natural then it must be good. This is particularly true of the cosmetic consumer. Certain aspects of the media deplore the use of preservatives in our cosmetics. Yet how would they feel about the presence of mould ? It is alter all natural but I suspect it would be an unwelcome addition to your favourite face cream. Psychologically we are geared to believe that natural is always the best option. This is probably due to our associations with food — we know that fruit is good for us therefore fruit extracts, with their essential vitamins, are good for our hair and skin. This is of course true but marketing stories often lead us to believe that something is more natural than it really is. We have all seen adverts for a cosmetic where the advertised product is placed in beautiful natural surroundings and we are told how this product contains some beneficial natural ingredient. The inference is that this is a natural product. While it does contain one or more natural materials to fit with the marketing story, in most cases it will have them at a low percentage while the bulk of the product is composed of synthetics. Note de contenu : - How natural is natural ? - Organics and naturals - Food crossover - Top pick of functional oils and waxes - Natural surface active solutions - Exfoliants En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hAAvO89eu5Zn7ZCeJinn-KEE8u81PE0x/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18781 [article]

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The distillation of essential oils - Part 2 / Murray Hunter in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 88-94 Titre : The distillation of essential oils - Part 2 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Murray Hunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 88-94 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Distillation Huiles essentielles Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Part two of this three part series on distillation carries on from the basic principles laid out in part one to look at the stages of the general distillation process and oulines the various basic types of distillation. Note de contenu : - Steam and pressure - Wilting crops before distillation - Water distillation - Water and steam distillation - Steam distillation - The condenser system - The separator system - Hydro-diffusion distillation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F0Tyzp6X3Xtu-zPtGWkQD4AgdMcZuiio/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18782 [article]

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