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Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis / S. John in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)
[article]
Titre : Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. John, Auteur ; P. Lorenz, Auteur ; R.-D. Petersen, Auteur ; Martina Heldermann, Auteur ; S. Borchert, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 40-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
CosmétiquesTags : 'Bellis perennis' 'Blanchiment de la peau' 'Expression tyrosinase' 'Inhibition tyrosinase ROS 'Scannage par superoxyde (O2-)' mélanine' Mélanosome MC1-R ?-MSH Endothéline-1 (ET-1) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel botanical ingredient -trade name: Belides - obtained from daisy flower blossoms (Bellis perennis L.) consists of bioactive constituents such a saponins (triterpene glycosides), polyphenols and polysaccharides. The presence of these constituents suggests that this active produces a variety of effects which are also used in phytomedicine. Surprisingly, Belides was found to exhibit a strong inhibitory effect on melanogenesis (patent pending). The fraction of polyphenols is known to inhibit tyrosinase enzymatic activity. results of a comparative study conducted with Belides and aubutin, used at equivalent polyphenol concentrations, revealed that Belides was about twice as active as arbutin. Tests carried out on melanoma cells (B16V) have shown that Belides controls transcription of tyrosinase expression, thus inhibiting its synthesis. In addiction, Belides has been found to significantly decrease the release of the peptide hormone endothelin (ET-1), the binding capacity of alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormaone) on the melanocortin receptor-1 (MC1-R) and also melanosome uptake mechanisms. Furthermore, results of a pilot study performed on human volunteers demonstrate the in vivo skin-lightening efficacy of Belides. Belides is recommended for use in skin-lightening cosmetics and in case of pigmentation disorders, hyperpigmentation or age spots. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The plant
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Manufacturing process of Belides - Total polyphenol content - Speroxide scavenging(O2-) capacity - Tyrosinase enzymatic activity - Melanin inhibition assay - Enzymatic quantification of tyrosinase expression - Endothelin-1 (ET-1) assay - The alpha-MSH assay - Phagocytosis activity of keratinocytes as a function of melanosome uptake - Skin-lightening efficacy test on human volunteers (in vivo pilot study)Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28130
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 40-49[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Reconstructed human epidermis as an efficient tool in the evaluation of the effects of UV irradiation and of the photoprotective capacities of a sunblock / Alain Mavon in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)
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Titre : Reconstructed human epidermis as an efficient tool in the evaluation of the effects of UV irradiation and of the photoprotective capacities of a sunblock Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alain Mavon, Auteur ; Christelle Gélis, Auteur ; Patricia Vicendo, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 209-214 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : UVA 'Irradiation solaire' 'Expression P53' Produit antisolaire' 'Modèle alternatif' 'Reconstruction de l'épiderme humain' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Solar or UVA (ultraviolet A) irradiation of the skin causes biological damage, including apoptosis, which is evident in the form of sunburn cells and the overexpression of p53. These two parameters, as well as the measurement of cellular viability, were used to evaluate the effects of UV irradiation on a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, with and without the photoprotection of a broad spectrum sunblock. Reconstructed epidermis models were irradiated by solar spectrum (420 mJ cm–2) or UVA (20 J cm–2). In the absence of irradiation, and with irradiation doses of 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability was estimated at 95, 12 and 70% respectively. Sunburn cells per cm were evaluated at 0, 41 and 22, respectively under these same conditions. The apoptotic response was studied through the expression of p53, which increased at first and was then followed by a specific cleavage, 24 h after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2. However, in the presence of a broad spectrum sunblock preparation (a combination of OMC, MBTBP, TiO2 and ZnO) and after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability increased to 40 and 85% respectively. The number of sunburn cells (SBC) per cm fell to 12 and nine respectively. The photoprotection provided by the sunblock limited the increase in the expression of p53 and resulted in the total disappearance of the cleavage. This study shows that human reconstructed epidermis is a valid skin model for use in the evaluation of the effects of solar and UVA irradiation, as well as in the testing of the efficacy of sunfilters. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10476
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 209-214[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003884 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Production of the tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2) and evaluation of its potential as anti-aging active / Rolf Schütz in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 8, N° 3 (07-08-09/2005)
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Titre : Production of the tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2) and evaluation of its potential as anti-aging active Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf Schütz, Auteur ; Beatrice König, Auteur ; Beat Hochtrasser, Auteur ; Patrick Stolz, Auteur ; Dominik Imfeld, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 171-177 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biomolécules activesTags : 'Matrice métalloprotéinases' TIMP 'Expression de la protéine recombinante' du collagène' Ingrédient cosmétique' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) show increased activities predominantly in UV-irradiated skin as well as in chronologically aged skin. MMPs are therefore reasoned to be associated with the degenerative alterations in the collagenous dermal extracellular matrix, which in turn may accelerate the signs of skin aging such as wrinkle formation and skin sagging. In normal physiological processes MMP activity is controlled by the endogenous tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). Here we report the biotechnological production of the human-identical inhibitor TIMP-2 and its evaluation as an anti-aging active through attenuation of the degenerative MMP activity. The recombinant TIMP-2 polypeptide selectively inhibited MMPs in vitro which are involved in aging processes and showed efficient IC50 values in the low nanomolar range. Topical application of formulated TIMP-2 on skin explants with subsequent UVB irradiation (2-3 MED) resulted in an almost quantitative protection against collagen degradation. Thus, our biotechnological production of TIMP-2 leads to the active broad-spectrum MMP inhibitor that reduces excessive MMP activity and thereby preserves the structural integrity of collagen network. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10490
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 8, N° 3 (07-08-09/2005) . - p. 171-177[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003888 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible