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Skin-identical ceramide for enhanced skin care / Mike Farwick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)
[article]
Titre : Skin-identical ceramide for enhanced skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mike Farwick, Auteur ; Saskia Klee-Laquai, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 27-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire.
Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés.
La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia)
Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is a highly complex tissue acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack. It plays a crucial role in the protection against dehydration and the control of body temperature.' This barricade is provided by the 'horny layer' (stratum corneum [SC]), representing the outermost layer of the epidermis. The horny layer is a thin inert, water-retaining barrier which both regulates the moisture content of the skin and protects it against external influences. Due to its structure it is often compared to a brick wall in which the non-viable corneocytes are embedded like bricks in a matrix of lipids ('mortar').2 The lipid mixture of the mortar is assembled into densely packed lamellar structures mainly consisting of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. On a weight basis, these lipids constitute approximately 47% ceramides, 24% cholesterol, 11% free fatty acids and 18% cholesterol esters.3
The proper physical organisation of the lipid bilayer structure is crucial for an effective skin barrier and this is provided by a lipid lamellar assembly in a tightly packed orthorhombic configuration. The lipid environment of the stratum corneum is an essential factor for maintaining the skin's equilibrium. As a result of age, health or environmental conditions, both the amount of lipids and in the lipid composition change, leading to a weakening of the barrier function.
Ceramides, as the major epidermal lipid components, are valuable components of skin care products, since the topical application of ceramide-containing products can replenish low levels of stratum corneum lipids.En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13pvpSsz5KlUbjZaEUTbjzS8JcKgLSjDY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18769
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013) . - p. 27-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15153 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis / S. John in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)
[article]
Titre : Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. John, Auteur ; P. Lorenz, Auteur ; R.-D. Petersen, Auteur ; Martina Heldermann, Auteur ; S. Borchert, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 40-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
CosmétiquesTags : 'Bellis perennis' 'Blanchiment de la peau' 'Expression tyrosinase' 'Inhibition tyrosinase ROS 'Scannage par superoxyde (O2-)' mélanine' Mélanosome MC1-R ?-MSH Endothéline-1 (ET-1) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel botanical ingredient -trade name: Belides - obtained from daisy flower blossoms (Bellis perennis L.) consists of bioactive constituents such a saponins (triterpene glycosides), polyphenols and polysaccharides. The presence of these constituents suggests that this active produces a variety of effects which are also used in phytomedicine. Surprisingly, Belides was found to exhibit a strong inhibitory effect on melanogenesis (patent pending). The fraction of polyphenols is known to inhibit tyrosinase enzymatic activity. results of a comparative study conducted with Belides and aubutin, used at equivalent polyphenol concentrations, revealed that Belides was about twice as active as arbutin. Tests carried out on melanoma cells (B16V) have shown that Belides controls transcription of tyrosinase expression, thus inhibiting its synthesis. In addiction, Belides has been found to significantly decrease the release of the peptide hormone endothelin (ET-1), the binding capacity of alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormaone) on the melanocortin receptor-1 (MC1-R) and also melanosome uptake mechanisms. Furthermore, results of a pilot study performed on human volunteers demonstrate the in vivo skin-lightening efficacy of Belides. Belides is recommended for use in skin-lightening cosmetics and in case of pigmentation disorders, hyperpigmentation or age spots. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The plant
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Manufacturing process of Belides - Total polyphenol content - Speroxide scavenging(O2-) capacity - Tyrosinase enzymatic activity - Melanin inhibition assay - Enzymatic quantification of tyrosinase expression - Endothelin-1 (ET-1) assay - The alpha-MSH assay - Phagocytosis activity of keratinocytes as a function of melanosome uptake - Skin-lightening efficacy test on human volunteers (in vivo pilot study)Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28130
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 40-49[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin microbiota and claims substantiation / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)
[article]
Titre : Skin microbiota and claims substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 75-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Justification de l'allégation
MicrobioteIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skinobs offer advice on how to evaluate cosmetic activity on the microbiome and also collate a range of expert industry views on the topic.
The evaluation of the effect of dermocosmetics or active products on the skin microbiota is evolving into more and more complex models. And yet, these never reach the sophistication of the ecosystem of the bacterial biofilm of the skin. In addition, it is now known that the skin microbiome is subject to intra-individual variations depending on the body areas and inter-individual according to genetic, intrinsic, and environmental factors.Note de contenu : - A complex ecosystem deeply linked to the skin homeostasis
- Microbiota claims : the era of a new revolution for cosmetics ?
- How to evaluate cosmetics activity on the skin microbiota ?
- Combining expert's views on clinical evaluation perspectives
- In vitro expert's view of the proof-of-concept
- The future of skin microbiota evaluationPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36604
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 75-77[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22883 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance / Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi, Auteur ; Hamid Reza Moghimi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 232-248 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
PerméationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products.
- Method : In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.
- Results : Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased.
- Conclusion : Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches.Note de contenu : - CHEMICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Chemical modification - Chemical permeation enhancers - Metal complexation
- PHYSICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Microneedle - Iontophoresis
- ENCAPSULATION OF ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES INTO LIPID-BASED NANOCARRIERS : Phospholipid-based vesicular nanocarriers - Liquid crystal nanoparticles - Microemulsions
- Table 1. The sequence, MW and calculated log P (clog P) of parent anti-wrinkle peptides
- Table 2. A summary of anti-wrinkle peptides that have been subjected to skin permeation enhancement methodsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12770 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OPFFmRy4IsO51kcID7Z92478Qh90ZCZF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37725
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 232-248[article]Skin pigmentation controlled via intelligent targeting / Joan Gonzà lez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 2 (03/2015)
[article]
Titre : Skin pigmentation controlled via intelligent targeting Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joan Gonzà lez, Auteur ; Marisabel Mourelle, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 21-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Cosmétiques
Encapsulation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : X50 Pure White is a novel and potent lightening agent designed in an intelligent targeting delivery (ITD) to melanocytes. The active ingredient is encapsulated in a system that enables sustainable release and enhances the effect of the active ingredient. Whitening effect results come from the synergy of blocking aMSH mediated reactions in melanocytes and the effect of encapsulated peptide that inhibits the formation of melanin under stimulated conditions. Therefore, X50 Pure White acts on pigmented areas and prevents the formation of new spots at a concentration as low as 0.001% which proves the effectiveness of the technology as well as providing an excellent safety profile. Note de contenu : - CAPSULES TARGETING MELANOCYTES
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Affinity of ligand peptide to MC1 receptors in melanocyte - Effect of the encapsulated peptide on tyrosinase activity under basal conditions - Efficacy of the encapsulated peptide on melanin content stimulated by aMSH - Efficacy of encapsulated peptide : effect on melanin content in 3D skin model ( pigmented and reconstituted skin ) - Cell selectivity and intracellular fate
- CLINICAL EFFICACY : Clinical assessment of whitening effect in Asian volunteers, chromametry evaluation, and comparative study controlled by placeboEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r04IzqsR941sNpGyf8Gl36vzNjy_NuWC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23450
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 2 (03/2015) . - p. 21-24[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17041 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin protected from harsh environments / Harald van der Hoeven in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (09/2012)
PermalinkSkin protection improved by natural actives / Marlène De Matos in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)
PermalinkSkin tightening boosted in anti-ageing applications / Ingrid Vervier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
PermalinkSkincare : uniting clinical proof with perception / Harald van der Hoeven in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 7 (07/2022)
PermalinkSkinification : des polysaccharides restructurent le cheveu abîmé / Aïna Queiroz in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (2023)
PermalinkLa slow beauty : la solution bien-être / Marie Laurent in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSoft focus effects : Natural particles for optimum skin care / Carolina Diaz Qujiano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 4 (04/2020)
PermalinkSoigner son cuir in ADDIACTIVE, N° 109 (10-11-12/2018)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSoin capillaire réparateur sans silicone / Christel Lorenzi in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 26 (03-04/2014)
PermalinkSoin des cheveux : l'action protectrice d'une diméthicone fonctionnalisée au cours de traitements chimiques / Ronald V. Lerum in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2018)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSoins capillaires : de plus en plus ciblés / Caroline Chavigny in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 166 (09/2002)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSolaires : la protection gagne du terrain / Caroline Chavigny in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 164 (04-05/2002)
PermalinkSoleil et sensorialité / Gattefossé in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 45 (05-06/2017)
PermalinkPermalinkUne solution cosmétique au traitement de la rosacée / Hanane Chajra in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2015)
PermalinkA solution for pollution-induced ageing of skin / Kazal Boron Biswas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 2 (04/2017)
PermalinkUne solution hydratante multi-fonctionnelle / Carla Perez in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2013)
PermalinkUne solution pour booster les FPS des formules de protection solaire / Marie Navarro in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2016)
PermalinkUne solution pour les peaux à tendance acnéique / Axelle Ferret in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2015)
PermalinkPermalinkLes sophorolipides : actif contre le vieillissement cutané / Frédérique Borzeix Conçaix in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 129 (06-07/1996)
PermalinkPermalinkLe sourcil, élément clé du regard / Lise-Laure Dunoyer Morali in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkDu sourcing maîtrisé de la rose bulgare à l'actif "bien vieillir" / Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkSoybean extract showed modulation of retinoic acid-related gene expression of skin and photo-protective effects in keratinocytes / N.-H. Park in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 2 (04/2013)
PermalinkSPAG Complex : pour une peau "weatherproof" / Harald van der Hoeven in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2013)
PermalinkSPF booster developed from NASA research / Kyle S. Landry in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 9 (10/2023)
PermalinkLes Sphérulites, la vectorisation flexible / C. Camuzat in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 199 (02-03/2008)
PermalinkSphingolipid promotes multilayer skin communication / Petra Biehl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 4 (09/2012)
PermalinkSpincontrol, une PME visionnaire / Michelle Vincent in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 212 (04-05/2010)
PermalinkSpray antiperspirant in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 178 (09-10/2004)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSpray solaire in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 159 (06-07/2001)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkPermalinkSquamometry : a tool to move from exaggerated to more and more realistic application conditions for comparing the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products / Marc Paye in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999)
PermalinkStabilisation and detoxification of henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) extract for hair dye cosmetics by spray-drying encapsulation / Ying Tang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 135, N° 6 (12/2019)
PermalinkStabilising retinol in skin care formulations / Gary Neudahl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)
PermalinkStabilité à l'oxydation exceptionnelle / James H. Brown in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES AROMES, N° 113 (11/93)
PermalinkStability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers / I. Nesic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 3 (06/2019)
PermalinkStable nanoemulsions - versatile applications in cosmetics and pharmacy / Gabriele Blume in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 5 (05/2019)
PermalinkStérilisation UHT appliquée à une crème cosmétique / Aurore Avisse in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 30 (11-12/2014)
PermalinkStick antiperspirant in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 178 (09-10/2004)
PermalinkStick apaisant J1879/C in ADDIACTIVE, N° 58 (04-05/2007)
PermalinkStick fond de teint in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 144 (12/1998)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkStick solide antiperspirant in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 178 (09-10/2004)
PermalinkStimulating Nrf2 and inhibiting NF-kB to help skin combating pollution / E. Bony in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
PermalinkStimulation of endogenous antioxidant enzymes / Daniel Schmid in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 5 (09/2014)
PermalinkStimuler les kératinocytes : nouvelle stratégie cutanée anti-âge / Sekyoo Jeong in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (12/2020)
PermalinkUne stratégie ciblée pour rajeunir les peaux matures / Marta Rull in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2012)
PermalinkStrengthening natural protection against light / Sonia Léglise in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkStress et immunité, les nouvelles raisons du soin / Jacques Sebag in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 70 (07-08/2021)
PermalinkStrong antioxidant defence from green tea extract / Vanessa E. Rivera in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkStudies on the stability of preservatives under subcritical water conditions / B. Kapalavavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 3 (06/2015)
PermalinkStudy and optimization of oil-in-water emulsions formulated by low- and high-frequency ultrasounds / Louise Perrin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
PermalinkStudy examines epigenetic regulation of melanogenesis / Neil Astles in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
PermalinkA study of the suppression of body odour in elderly subjects by anti-fungal agents / C. Ozeki in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 3 (06/2016)
PermalinkSublimez vos gels aqueux / Karine Bonnet in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2017)
PermalinkSubmicron particles from lipid mixtures as safe and efficient carrier systems for the active ingredient retinol / Sabilla Zhong in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
PermalinkSubstances naturelles "historiques" : comment valoriser leur utilisation aujourd'hui ? / Daniel Schmid in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2016)
PermalinkSubstantiating product efficacy claims / Emanuela Elia in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)
PermalinkSuccessful implementation of cosmetic testing / Manfred Bayer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)
PermalinkSucrose esters concentrated emulsion technology / François van Etten in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkSulfonate d'huile de schiste sodique contre les pellicules / G. Gayko in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 170 (04-05/2003)
PermalinkSummer snowflake bulb : A botox-like active / Fabien Havas in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)
PermalinkSummit removes the haze from pollution care / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (02/2017)
PermalinkPermalinkSun care broadens its appeal among consumers / Daniel Whitby in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
PermalinkSun care : skin microbiota surprises once more / Patrick Gonry in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
PermalinkSun protection and hydration of stratum corneum : a study by 2-D differential method / M. Lécureux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 5 (10/2014)
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