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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE / Société Française de Cosmétologie . Vol. 44, N° 2Mention de date : 04/2022Paru le : 15/04/2022 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierNatural sources of melanogenic inhibitors : A systematic review / Cláudio Fernando Goelzer Neto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Natural sources of melanogenic inhibitors : A systematic review Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Cláudio Fernando Goelzer Neto, Auteur ; Pamela do Nascimento, Auteur ; Verônica Cristina da Silveira, Auteur ; Brugnera Nunes de Mattos Alexandra, Auteur ; Charise Dallazem Bertol, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 143-153 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Anti tyrosinase
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Inhibiteurs (chimie)
Mélanogénèse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Phénols
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
TyrosinaseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Melanin gives some natural protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation; however, excessive production of melanin causes skin hyperpigmentation. Depigmenting cosmetics can be used to control this process; however, depigmenting agents commonly used have some disadvantages, such as low bioavailability, photosensitization, cellular toxicity, and insolubility. Natural sources of melanogenic inhibitors have become important alternatives to synthetic ones. The objective of this review was to summarize the results of studies on natural extracts that have been reported in the literature to inhibit the process of melanogenesis, giving a view on their suitability for potential use in new cosmetic formulations for skin-lightening.
- Data sources : A systematic literature search was carried out using the descriptors: “melanogenesis”, “tyrosinase”, “tyrosinase inhibition”, and “natural agents”.
- Study selection : Publications were selected based on our designated inclusion and exclusion criteria, and a total of 15 studies met these criteria.
- Data extraction : The following were used in the review of each paper which met the criteria: the name of the plant (all of the natural extracts turned out to be from plants), the method used to obtain the plant extract, the method for evaluating anti-tyrosinase activity, the main results, and the conclusions.
- Data synthesis : All evaluated natural agents demonstrated anti-tyrosinase effect. The species Leathesia difformis, Morus alba, Orostachys japonicus, Heracleum moellendorffii, Coix lacryma-jobi (adlay), Inula brittanica, and Gailardia aristata stood out from the others due to their application as potential inhibitors of more than three proteins related to melanogenesis, including the cyclic adenosine monophosphate response element-binding protein, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, tyrosinase-related protein-2, and dopachrome tautomerase.
- Conclusion : The plants present an anti-tyrosinase effect that must be better explored in the new cosmetic formulations. The anti-melanogenic effects of the plant are mainly related to the presence of phenolic and antioxidant compounds.Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Summary of the studies included in this review emphasizing the methodology, results, and conclusions
-DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12763 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j9FdTFRp0KE4vN7isl6OWUT5gVjlWB-q/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37718
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 143-153[article]Effects of watercress extract fraction on R-spondin 1-mediated growth of human hair / Masakazu Hashimoto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Effects of watercress extract fraction on R-spondin 1-mediated growth of human hair Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Masakazu Hashimoto, Auteur ; Yuka Kawai, Auteur ; Teruaki Masutani, Auteur ; Kiyotaka Tanaka, Auteur ; Kenichi Ito, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 154-165 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux gris
Cresson et constituants
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Produits capillaires
Tests de sécuritéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss and greying affect men and women of all ages, often causing psychosocial difficulties. Dickkopf-1 (DKK1), a major hair loss factor secreted from dermal papilla (DP) cells in response to the secretion of dihydrotestosterone (DHT), has been reported to induce and accelerate androgenetic alopecia (AGA). In addition, DKK1 acts as a potent suppressor of melanogenesis and is closely related to hair colour. R-spondin 1 (RSPO1) is a secretory agonist of Wnt signalling known to antagonize the effects of DKK1, including DKK1-mediated hair follicle suppression. In this study, we investigated the effect of watercress extract (WCE) on the secretion of RSPO1 and DKK1 from DP cells as well as its anti-hair loss effect in human hair follicles and patients.
- Methods : The in vitro secretion of RSPO1 and DKK1 was measured by ELISA. Human hair follicles were collected from the scalp of a female donor and used for ex vivo organ culture to investigate the effects of WCE on human hair loss. Finally, a 6-month human clinical trial was conducted to examine the effect of WCE-containing lotion on hair growth in a male panel.
- Results : WCE significantly upregulated RSPO1 secretion and suppressed DKK1 secretion in a dose-dependent manner, even in the presence of DHT. WCE-treated hair follicles elongated 1.6-fold compared with the control, and the level of RSPO1 production in DP as well as RSPO1 bound to the outer root sheath (ORS) increased. In the clinical trial, the hair lotion containing 2% WCE increased hair thickness and density to improve against hair loss symptoms.
- Conclusion : WCE exhibited a strong anti-androgenic effect through its ability to suppress DKK1 secretion and antagonize DKK1 via RSPO1. These findings highlighted the potential use of WCE for the treatment of hair loss.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fractionation and identification of WCE components - Treatment with RSPO1, DKK1 and Wnt-3a - Measurements of protein secretion from DP cells - Elongation and immunohistochemistry of hair follicle ex vivo - Statistical analyses
- RESULTS : Enhancement of Wnt signalling by RSPO1 - Effect of WCE on RSPO1 and DKK1 secretion in DP cells - Hair follicle elongation ex vivo - Clinical trialDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12764 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mEtlNb-0EHtJAaI-UEiACOIUsnbeQepv/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37719
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 154-165[article]Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups / Anthony V. Rawlings in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anthony V. Rawlings, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Christian Klose, Auteur ; Jean-Marc Monneuse, Auteur ; Beverley Summers, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 166-176 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Chimie analytique
Cornéocytes
Dermatologie
LipidomiqueLa lipidomique est l'étude à grande échelle des voies et des réseaux de lipides cellulaires dans les systèmes biologiques. Le mot "lipidome" est utilisé pour décrire le profil lipidique complet dans une cellule, un tissu, un organisme ou un écosystème et est un sous-ensemble du « métabolome » qui comprend également les trois autres grandes classes de molécules biologiques : les protéines/acides aminés, les sucres et les acides nucléiques. La lipidomique est un domaine de recherche relativement récent qui a été porté par les progrès rapides de technologies telles que la spectrométrie de masse (MS), la spectroscopie par résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN), la spectroscopie de fluorescence, l'interférométrie à double polarisation et les méthodes informatiques, associées à la reconnaissance du rôle des lipides dans de nombreuses maladies métaboliques telles que l'obésité, l' athérosclérose, les accidents vasculaires cérébraux, l'hypertension et le diabète . Ce domaine en pleine expansion complète les énormes progrès de la génomique et de la protéomique, qui constituent la famille de la biologie des systèmes. (Wikipedia)
Membrane cellulaire
Peau -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
ProtéomiqueLa protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données.
Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité.
Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances.
La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine.
La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa.
- Methods : Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms.
- Results : No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans.
- Conclusion : The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Study population and methods
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : SC lipidomics and ceramidomics
SC proteomics of corneocyte lipid envelope processing enzymes
- Table 1 : Fold changes in 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 between (A) cheek and postauricular sites for each ethnicity; (B) differences among postauricular site for all ethnicities; and (C) differences among cheek site for all ethnicities. Data are mean ±SEMDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12765 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8wZB_GUOn3-yrhL5846IShbMCu3NRqQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37720
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 166-176[article]Research on antioxidant performance of diglucosyl gallic acid and its application in emulsion cosmetics / Kai-qiang Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Research on antioxidant performance of diglucosyl gallic acid and its application in emulsion cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kai-qiang Zhang, Auteur ; Liang-liang Lin, Auteur ; Hu-jun Xu, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 177-188 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Anti tyrosinase
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Mélanine
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Diglucosyl gallic acid is a whitening active with powerful whitening function. When it acts on human skin, microorganisms on the skin surface and part of the stratum corneum produce α-glucosidase to sever the glucose bond of diglucosyl gallic acid, thereby converting part of diglucosyl gallic acid into gallic acid, acting on the skin and exerting the excellent effects of diglucosyl gallic acid and gallic acid at the same time. Diglucosyl gallic acid has high stability and water solubility, it can reduce free radical generation, inhibit tyrosinase generation, prevent melanin transfer, and control skin inflammation. The present study investigates the in vitro tyrosinase inhibition activity, antioxidant capacity of diglucosyl gallic acid as well as its clinical efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient.
- Methods : Taking VC and gallic acid as controls, the pH = 6.8, 0.05 mmol/L Na2HPO4-NaH2PO4 buffer solution was prepared to test the tyrosinase inhibitory activity and antioxidant capacity of diglucosyl gallic acid respectively. Using arbutin and nicotinamide, two common cosmetic raw materials as controls, 20 volunteers (aged 20–35 years old) were selected for the test. (2 ± 0.1) mg/cm2 take the lotion to be tested and apply it to the test part evenly, twice a day, volunteers are not allowed to use sunscreen or other sunscreen products during the study period.
- Results : The results show that diglucosyl gallic acid has a stronger ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase compared with VC, and its IC50 value is 2.68 mg/ mL. Their potential antioxidant activities are further evaluated by the DPPH (α, α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl) method and the ABTS [2,2´-azinobis-(3-ethylbenz othiazoline-6-sulphonate)] radical cation (ABTS+) method, in which the gallic acid demonstrates a better performance than the traditional antioxidant vitamin C (VC), while the diglucosyl gallic acid shows poorer performance. As to the reducing ability, VC has the best performance, much better than gallic acid and diglucosyl gallic acid. Furthermore, through clinical experiments, it is shown the application of the diglucosyl gallic acid as a cosmetic ingredient can considerably improve the brightness of the skin and meanwhile reduce the area of ultraviolet spots, melanin and erythema over time.
- Conclusion : The above in vitro and in vivo studies on diglucosyl gallic provide the basis for its future application development in cosmetics.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Inhibition test of diglucosyl gallic acid on tyrosinase - In vitro antioxidant activity test of diglucosyl gallic acid - Preparation and efficacy evaluation of diglucosyl gallic acid-based emulsion
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : The effect of diglucosyl gallic acid on tyrosinase - DPPH free radical scavenging - ABTS·+ free radical scavenging - Reduction ability - Efficacy evaluation - Facial skin tone analysis
- Table 1 : Composition of the reaction solution for tyrosinase activity test
- Table 2 : Detailed composition of the whitening lotion formula
- Table 3 : Summary of different parameters related to skinDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12766 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16AzFI_nZewieqRrQQ2ZVLHaU19foKbV0/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37721
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 177-188[article]Exploring compounds to be used as cosmetic agents that activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor alpha / Keisuke Tachibana in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : Exploring compounds to be used as cosmetic agents that activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor alpha Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Keisuke Tachibana, Auteur ; Syohei Fukuda, Auteur ; Jun Fukushima, Auteur ; Kenji Ishimoto, Auteur ; Masahiro Sakata, Auteur ; Yasutomo Nishimori, Auteur ; Takefumi Doi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 189-200 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse génétique
Barrière cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
KératinocytesLes kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure.
L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) :
1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme)
2. stratum spinosum
3. stratum granulosum
4. stratum lucidum
5. stratum corneum
Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme.
Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis).
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Récepteurs cellulairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human epidermis is formed by the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes adjacent to the basement membrane. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is equipped with a barrier function that prevents water evaporation, and intercellular lipids play an important role in this barrier function. When the barrier is functioning normally, evaporation is prevented; however, when barrier function is impaired, moisture evaporates, resulting in dry and rough skin. Therefore, maintenance of normal barrier function is critical for maintaining normal skin function. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α (PPARα) is mainly not only involved in lipid metabolism in the liver but is also expressed in the epidermis and is involved in inducing keratinocyte differentiation, promoting lipid production, maintaining barrier function and suppressing skin inflammation. Hence, compounds that activate PPARα are expected to control skin function. Therefore, we identified PPARα activators from among extracts of natural resources that have been approved for use in humans and analysed the effects of these extracts on skin function.
- Methods : First, extracts of 474 natural resources were screened using a PPARα activator screening cell line independently constructed in our laboratory. Next, reporter assays were performed using the Gal4-chimera system to evaluate whether these extracts act as ligands for PPARα. We then analysed their effect on primary normal human epidermal keratinocyte cells by using real-time RT-PCR. Finally, we evaluated PPARα activation effect by the combination of these extracts.
- Results : We identified 36 extracts having the effect of activating PPARα. In particular, #419, a Typha angustifolia spike extract, showed concentration-dependent transcriptional activation through PPARα-LBD and was considered to be likely to contain a compound that is a ligand of PPARα. #419 increased the expression of PPARα target genes and genes related to skin function in primary cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the use of #419 in combination with nine extracts increased PPAR activity more than twice as much as #419 alone treatment.
- Conclusions : These results showed that the reporter cell line could be useful for discovering extracts of natural resources and that the identified Typha angustifolia spike extract could be used in cosmetics that activate PPARα, which expected to improve skin function.
Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Extract preparation of natural resources - Cell culture - Luciferase assays using a human PPARα reporter cell line - Gal4-chimera reporter gene assay - RNA extraction and quantitative real-time RT-PCR - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Screening extracts of natural resources that activate PPARα - Analysis of the effects of screened extracts on nuclear receptors - Analysis of the effect of the extract #419 on skin function - Evaluation of PPARα activation effect by the combination of #419 and other extracts
- Table 1 : Primers used for real-time PCR
- Table 2 : Transcriptional activation of GAL4-nuclear receptors attributable to extracts #272 and #419
- Table 3 : List of extracts activated the PPARα activityDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12767 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OZoy7J_w4OvSm_iYqz34POVe4bH_c4bd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37722
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 189-200[article]A Harungana madagascariensis extract with retinol-like properties: Gene upregulations and protein expressions in human fibroblasts and skin explants / Richard Fitoussi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : A Harungana madagascariensis extract with retinol-like properties: Gene upregulations and protein expressions in human fibroblasts and skin explants Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Richard Fitoussi, Auteur ; Marie-Christine Branchet, Auteur ; Natacha Garnier, Auteur ; Gallic Beauchef, Auteur ; Alex Nkengne, Auteur ; Katell Vié, Auteur ; Sylvie Boisnic, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 201-215 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Explant de peau
Expression génique
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Fibroblastes
Peau -- Anatomie
Peau -- Physiologie
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Because they limit, even reverse, age-induced skin alterations, retinoids became a staple in cosmetology. However, their use can result in undesired secondary effects and there is a demand for natural sources of compounds with retinoid-like effects. A preliminary screening identified a Harungana madagascariensis plant extract (HME) as possibly inducing genes stimulated by retinol. We analysed its effect on gene and protein expression, comparing it to retinoids.
- Methods : Gene expression was analysed by real-time qPCR on RNA from isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or the plant extract for 6, 48 or 96 h. Skin markers were quantified in fibroblasts cultured with retinol or extract containing medium, and UV-aged skin explants subjected to topical applications of creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME.
- Results : Real-time qPCR shows that the extract induced all RARs and RXRs, even RXRγ that was not induced by retinol. Eighty-eight per cent of the 25 early retinoid reaction genes induced by a concentration of retinol are induced by the extract. In fibroblasts, only the extract increased collagen III labelling, while collagen I and fibronectin labelling are increased by retinol and the extract, with higher levels for the extract. When topically applied to UV-aged skin explants, only the cream containing the HME led to increased labelling of CRABP1 in the epidermis. CRABP2 and Ki67 are induced by all three creams and no effect was detected on RXRs. In the dermisthe extract containing cream increased CRABP2, total collagen, procollagen I and collagen I while creams with retinol or retinaldehyde only affected some of these proteins.
- Conclusions : The HME induces an overall retinol-like gene induction profile in isolated fibroblasts and retinoid-like stimulation of protein synthesis in both isolated fibroblasts and photoaged skin explants.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Skin explants - Preparation of fibroblast culture - Treatment of fibroblasts with retinol or HME - Preparation of RNA, reverse transcription and real-time qPCR
Immunofluorescent quantification of collagens and fibronectin in fibroblasts - UV-induced ageing of skin explants and topical treatment with creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME - Immunolabeling of skin fragments - ELISA quantification of procollagen I - Spectrocolourimetric quantification of elastin - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Real-time qPCR comparative gene expression between isolated fibroblasts cultured in the presence of retinol or HME - Expression levels of collagen and fibronectin in isolated fibroblasts cultured in the presence of retinol or HME - Comparison of the effect of commercially available creams containing retinol or retinaldehyde with those induced by a cream containing the HME on the expression of proteins in UV-aged skin explants
- Table 1 : Median of the maximum induction folds for the 27 genes tested by real-time qPCR in isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or HME
- Table 2 : Pearson's correlation coefficients of the maximum induction fold for the 27 genes tested by real-time qPCR in isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or HMEDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12768 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1osna4IvYNdLBuq-0tyJg-4r6AU5Y8VDF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37723
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 201-215[article]A novel cell line from human eccrine sweat gland duct cells for investigating sweating physiology / Jessica Welzel in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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Titre : A novel cell line from human eccrine sweat gland duct cells for investigating sweating physiology Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jessica Welzel, Auteur ; Sabine Grüdl, Auteur ; Bernhard Banowski, Auteur ; Holger Stark, Auteur ; Andrea Sättler, Auteur ; Thomas Welss, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 216-231 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse génétique
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Expression génique
Glandes sudoriparesLes glandes sudoripares (sudorales) sont des annexes cutanées (organes microscopiques spécialisés) qui sécrètent la sueur et, pour certaines d'entre elles, des hormones ou phéromones.
Histologiquement, il s'agit de glandes exocrines (épithéliums cubiques bistratifiés) dont la fonction première est la transpiration.
Les deux types de glandes sudoripares chez l'humain
Chez l'humain, on distingue deux sortes de glandes sudoripares qui diffèrent par leur origine embryologique, leurs fonctions, leurs répartitions et par la composition de la sueur qu'elles excrètent.
Glandes sudoripares « eccrines »
Les glandes sudoripares eccrines sont de loin les plus nombreuses, de trois à six millions, avec une densité moyenne de 200 glandes/cm2. Leur topographie est quasi-ubiquitaire, avec une répartition sur presque l'ensemble de la surface cutanée, avec une plus forte densité au niveau de la paume des mains, de la plante des pieds (où elles atteignent une densité maximale de 600 glandes/cm2) et sur le front.
Ces glandes sont absentes au niveau des petites lèvres et du clitoris chez les femmes, et du gland chez l'homme.
Glandes sudoripares « apocrines »
Chez l'humain, ces glandes se trouvent sous les aisselles (dans l'organe axillaire), sur la peau autour de l'anus et autour des mamelons. À la différence des glandes eccrines, la répartition des glandes apocrines est donc plus restreinte. Par ailleurs, les glandes apocrines présentent une plus grande taille, leur canal excréteur s'abouche dans un follicule pileux par lequel leur sécrétion est déversée ; celle-ci contient des lipides et des phéromones, des composés transformés par le microbiote bactérien cutané, produisant l'odeur de transpiration.
Peau -- Histologie
VirusIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Human eccrine sweat glands (eSG) represent vital components of the skin involved in regulating body temperature. Especially the eccrine duct, which opens directly into the skin surface and releases the aqueous sweat, constitutes the first contact point with topically applied substances. For scientific investigations and to understand the underlying sweating mechanism on a cellular level defined cellular material is beneficial. We, therefore, strived to generate a cell line derived from human eSG duct cells for identifying new mechanisms in sweating control, as such a standardized cell line is currently lacking.
- Material and methods : Isolated primary human eSG duct cells were transduced with simian virus 40 large T antigen (SV40T) by lentiviral transduction. Successfully SV40T-transduced clones were selected by single-cell cloning with one clone, named 1D10, being particularly described in this work.
- Results : In performed cellular investigations, SV40T-transduced duct-derived cells exhibited an extended lifespan with stable population doubling times suggesting its immortality. Besides, 1D10 clonal cell culture demonstrated similarities with parental, primary duct cells regarding gene expression of selected sweat gland-related markers. When combined with primary coil cells in a hanging drop co-culture, those transduced duct-derived cells showed some duct cell-like features. Further, a certain degree of cellular communication and a specific reaction towards substance application was observed.
- Conclusion : Generated and herein described cell line derived from isolated human eSG duct cells is, based on the presented scientific findings, considered as immortal. Besides, this cell line shows some similarity with primary duct cells, although alterations from native glands were detected, among which is loss of expression of cystic fibrosis transmembrane conductance regulator. Provided some further investigations, presented SV40T-transduced duct-cell derived cell line seems a suited surrogate of primary eccrine duct cells.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Cell culture - Gene expression analysis - Histological examinations
- RESULTS : Characteristics of SV40T-transduced duct-derived cells -
Characteristics of clone 1D10
- DISCUSSION : Establishment of an immortalized eccrine sweat gland duct cell line - Characterization of SV40T-transduced eccrine sweat gland duct-derived cell clone 1D10DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12769 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LYIf5UT6xVWsFaaYEX2sxn2Anyn2OWhc/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37724
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 216-231[article]Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance / Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Seyedeh Maryam Mortazavi, Auteur ; Hamid Reza Moghimi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 232-248 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
PerméationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products.
- Method : In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.
- Results : Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased.
- Conclusion : Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches.Note de contenu : - CHEMICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Chemical modification - Chemical permeation enhancers - Metal complexation
- PHYSICAL ENHANCEMENT METHODS USED FOR ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES : Microneedle - Iontophoresis
- ENCAPSULATION OF ANTI-WRINKLE PEPTIDES INTO LIPID-BASED NANOCARRIERS : Phospholipid-based vesicular nanocarriers - Liquid crystal nanoparticles - Microemulsions
- Table 1. The sequence, MW and calculated log P (clog P) of parent anti-wrinkle peptides
- Table 2. A summary of anti-wrinkle peptides that have been subjected to skin permeation enhancement methodsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12770 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OPFFmRy4IsO51kcID7Z92478Qh90ZCZF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37725
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 232-248[article]Improved stability and skin penetration through glycethosomes loaded with glycyrrhetinic acid / YaQi Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Improved stability and skin penetration through glycethosomes loaded with glycyrrhetinic acid Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : YaQi Zhang, Auteur ; Rong Liang, Auteur ; Chunhuan Liu, Auteur ; Cheng Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 249-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Glycyrrhétinique, Acide
Liposomes
Liposomes -- Stabilité
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pénétration cutanée
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In recent years, glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) has been popularly used in cosmetics because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects. However, due to the poor water solubility of GA and the barrier effect of human skin, the penetration of GA through the skin may be hindered. Liposomes are a common delivery system for functional compounds in cosmetics. Nonetheless, the stability and transdermal effect of traditional liposomes are limited. The aim of this work was to prepare a new liposome system that contained glycerol and ethanol to enhance the stability of the vesicles and promote the penetration of GA into the skin.
- Methods : The glycethosomes were prepared by ethanol injection and sonication method. The effects of different concentrations of glycerol and ethanol on the particle size, polydispersity (PDI), entrapment efficiency (EE), stability and rheological properties of vesicles were evaluated. Lipophilic and hydrophilic fluorescent probes were used to investigate the microviscosity of vesicles. In vitro permeation tests were performed with pig skin in Franz cells and the concentration of GA in different skin layers was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The ability of different vesicles to induce lipid extraction and fluidization was analysed by using attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR).
- Results : When glycerol was 50% and ethanol was 25%, the obtained glycethosomes had the smallest particle size and the best stability with a mean particle size of 94.5 nm, PDI 0.216 and 99.8% EE. Fluorescence probe studies indicated that the microviscosity of glycethosomes was the largest when the concentration of glycerol and ethanol was 50% and 25%, which was consistent with the storage stability of glycethosomes. It was found that the glycethosomes had the best transdermal effect and the total skin permeation percentage of GA was 20.67%, while those of ethosomes, glycerosomes, liposomes and dispersion were 10.56%, 9.38%, 7.78% and 5.02%, respectively. And glycethosomes had effectively lipid extraction and fluidization effect on the skin stratum corneum.
- Conclusion : Compared with other traditional liposomes, glycethosomes can significantly improve the stability of vesicles and the transdermal effect of GA. Glycethosomes is promising vesicles for the delivery of GA.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Glycethosome vesicles preparation - Vesicle characterization - Microviscosity of liposomal bilayer membranes - Rheological characterization - In vitro skin penetration experiment - Confocal laser scanning microscopy - Attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy - Statistical analysis of data
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Construction of stable GA glycethosomes - Stability mechanism of GA glycethosomes - Transdermal application and mechanism of GA glycethosomes
- Table 1 : Changes in SC lipid microstructure after treatment with different samplesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12771 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yaypqTMpOzAYo-hGjrUtl87U2E9_7nu6/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37726
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 249-261[article]Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Yuri Dancik, Auteur ; Christophe Eklouh-Molinier, Auteur ; Nicolas Huang, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 262-270 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Emulsions sans émulsifiants
Epiderme
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau reconstruite
Pénétration cutanée
UltrasonsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.
- Methods : The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.
- Results : The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%–30% only.
- Conclusion : This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ingredients - Preparation of samples - Viscosity and pH measurement - Particle size measurement - Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) - Skin permeation experiments - High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis - Data analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of samples - In vitro caffeine permeation
- Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of the caffeine formulations studied
- Table 2 : Viscosity, pH, average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the ES-free emulsion and the reference emulsion
- Table 3 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine through EpiSkin® RHE samplesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12772 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lFjiRKOEITkgH-9evR1GnTdiR9H6BvRV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37727
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 262-270[article]