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Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping / Ghaith Kourbaj in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)
[article]
Titre : Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ghaith Kourbaj, Auteur ; Annette Gaiser, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 14-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caféine
Décapage
Pénétration cutanée
Perméation
Rubans adhésifs
Spectroscopie RamanIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of non-destructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping.
- Methods : Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin.
- Results : Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values.
- Conclusion : The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Test solutions - Ex vivo tape stripping - In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy - Statistics
- RESULTS : Results of ex vivo tape stripping - Results of in vivo CRS measurements
- DISCUSSION : Tape stripping results
- DISCUSSION OF THE CRS RESULTS : Comparing tape stripping results to CRS results
- Table 1 : Make-up of test solutions
- Table 2 : Incubation times
- Table 3 : Flux from different experimental setups
- Table 4 : Flux from different experimental setups. Flux over 1 h from different experimental setupsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12820 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/144nCOFKEh8YNpyXDssgQ2dBq7xZHp7Ff/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38816
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 14-28[article]Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods / Paweenuch Teerasumran in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)
[article]
Titre : Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Paweenuch Teerasumran, Auteur ; Eirini Velliou, Auteur ; Shuo Bai, Auteur ; Qiong Cai, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 426-443 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiperspirants
Cosmétiques
Déodorants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Glandes sudoriparesLes glandes sudoripares (sudorales) sont des annexes cutanées (organes microscopiques spécialisés) qui sécrètent la sueur et, pour certaines d'entre elles, des hormones ou phéromones.
Histologiquement, il s'agit de glandes exocrines (épithéliums cubiques bistratifiés) dont la fonction première est la transpiration.
Les deux types de glandes sudoripares chez l'humain
Chez l'humain, on distingue deux sortes de glandes sudoripares qui diffèrent par leur origine embryologique, leurs fonctions, leurs répartitions et par la composition de la sueur qu'elles excrètent.
Glandes sudoripares « eccrines »
Les glandes sudoripares eccrines sont de loin les plus nombreuses, de trois à six millions, avec une densité moyenne de 200 glandes/cm2. Leur topographie est quasi-ubiquitaire, avec une répartition sur presque l'ensemble de la surface cutanée, avec une plus forte densité au niveau de la paume des mains, de la plante des pieds (où elles atteignent une densité maximale de 600 glandes/cm2) et sur le front.
Ces glandes sont absentes au niveau des petites lèvres et du clitoris chez les femmes, et du gland chez l'homme.
Glandes sudoripares « apocrines »
Chez l'humain, ces glandes se trouvent sous les aisselles (dans l'organe axillaire), sur la peau autour de l'anus et autour des mamelons. À la différence des glandes eccrines, la répartition des glandes apocrines est donc plus restreinte. Par ailleurs, les glandes apocrines présentent une plus grande taille, leur canal excréteur s'abouche dans un follicule pileux par lequel leur sécrétion est déversée ; celle-ci contient des lipides et des phéromones, des composés transformés par le microbiote bactérien cutané, produisant l'odeur de transpiration.
Odeur corporelle
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pénétration cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Tests de sécurité
Transpiration
VectorisationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sweating is the human body's thermoregulation system but also results in unpleasant body odour which can diminish the self-confidence of people. There has been continued research in finding solutions to reduce both sweating and body odour. Sweating is a result of increased sweat flow and malodour results from certain bacteria and ecological factors such as eating habits. Research on deodorant development focuses on inhibiting the growth of malodour-forming bacteria using antimicrobial agents, whereas research on antiperspirant synthesis focuses on technologies reducing the sweat flow, which not only reduces body odour but also improves people's appearance. Antiperspirant's technology is based on the use of aluminium salts which can form a gel plug at sweat pores, obstructing the sweat fluid from arising onto the skin surface. In this paper, we perform a systematic review on the recent progress in the development of novel antiperspirant and deodorant active ingredients that are alcohol-free, paraben-free, and naturally derived. Several studies have been reported on the alternative class of actives that can potentially be used for antiperspirant and body odour treatment including deodorizing fabric, bacterial, and plant extracts. However, a significant challenge is to understand how the gel-plugs of antiperspirant actives are formed in sweat pores and how to deliver long-lasting antiperspirant and deodorant benefits. Note de contenu : - SWEAT GLANDS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS : Eccrine, apocrine, and apoeccrine glands - Hyperhidrosis
- RESEARCH PROGRESS OF DEODORANTS : Body odour formation mechanism and its chemical composition - Deodorant's ingredients - Testing methodology to evaluate the efficiency of deodorant products
- RESEARCH PROGRESS ON ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS AND COMPOSITION COMPONENTS : Aluminium salts and their mechanism of action - Testing methodologies for the evaluation of an antiperspirant's efficiency
- ALTERNATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR BODY ODOUR REDUCTION TREATMENTS : Naturally derived ingredients - Synthetic ingredients
- CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING ALTERNATIVE DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
- CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING TESTING METHODS FOR ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS
- Table 1 : Common ingredients in deodorant products, adapted from Martini 2020
- Table 2 : Common ingredients in antiperspirant formulation, adapted from Benohanian 2001, Jungermann 1974, and Martini 2020DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12852 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BtLnpM3YrEWmMLQh8_-oQWOd1xrvX_Jd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39777
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 426-443[article]Effect of pickling materials on leather quality from a hide surface charge perspective / Tianqi Yang in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXVII, N° 7 (07/2022)
[article]
Titre : Effect of pickling materials on leather quality from a hide surface charge perspective Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tianqi Yang, Auteur ; Yunhang Zeng, Auteur ; Qingyong Sun, Auteur ; Chao Lei, Auteur ; Bi Shi, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 279-287 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Composés aromatiques
Croûte (cuir)On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Pénétration cutanée
PicklageLe picklage consiste à faire absorber à la peau en tripe une quantité importante d'acide, en présence de sel neutre (NaCl) pour réprimer le gonflement que provoquerait l'acidité du milieu.
Sulfoniques, Acides
Tannage au chrome
Wet-blue (tannage)Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue)Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Salt-free pickling technology has recently received increased attention because it produces much lower salt pollution than the conventional pickling technology using formic acid, sulfuric acid, and sodium chloride. However, the existing salt-free pickling materials, for instance, aromatic sulfonic acids (ASAs), lead to reduced leather quality and the reason behind this phenomenon is unclear. In this study, we explored how ASAs affect the properties of tanned leather. Results showed that typical ASAs, such as 5-sulfosalicylic acid, 1,5-naphthalenedisulfonic acid, and 2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, penetrated cattle hide more slowly compared with formic and sulfuric acids because of their large molecular weight and strong intermolecular interactions with hide collagen. ASAs decreased the positive charge of the pickled hide via interactions with their sulfonic acid groups, resulting in the increased adsorption rate of chrome tanning agent to the hide surface. Rapid tanning agent adsorption could impede the deep penetration and uniform distribution of the agent in the ASA-pickled hide. Thus, the properties of wet blues and crust leathers pickled with ASAs are inferior to those of wet blue and crust leather pickled using conventional pickling materials. Our results indicate that a strongly positive charge of the pickled hide is vital to obtaining high-quality leather and provide insights into salt-free pickling materials from a hide surface charge perspective. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Pickling experiments - Analyses of pickling performance - Analyses of chrome tanning performance - Determination of the physical properties of crust leather
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Penetration of various acids into hide - Surface charge properties of hides pickled with various acids - Hydrothermal stability and fiber dispersion of hides pickled with various acids - Effect of pickling materials on chrome tanning performance - Effect of pickling materials on the physical properties of crust leathers
- Table 1 : Pickling and chrome tanning processes
- Table 2 : Pseudo-first-order and pseudo-second-order kinetic parameters for chrome adsorption
- Table 3 : Physical properties of crust leathersDOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/jalca.v117i7.5962 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UhajIthtPvDv2bquUbfxlI9pj2WugNC8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37820
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXVII, N° 7 (07/2022) . - p. 279-287[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23515 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves / Sofia Melo-GuÃmaro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)
[article]
Titre : Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sofia Melo-GuÃmaro, Auteur ; Renato Cardoso, Auteur ; Celso Paiva João, Auteur ; João Santos, Auteur ; Elodie Melro, Auteur ; Luis G. Arnaut, Auteur ; Jorge Costa Pereira, Auteur ; Carlos Serpa, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 453-463 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Barrière cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ondes photoacoustiques
Pénétration cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine CIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Ascorbic acid (i.e., vitamin C) is an important antioxidant present in skin. The protective role of vitamin C against photoaging motivated numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery, with a success limited by its chemical instability and poor skin permeability. Vitamin C precursors, such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), which are metabolized to vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin, solve the problem of stability but are limited by low skin permeability. We developed a 2% (w/v) gel formulation of AA2G application (viscosity 4.30 × 104 Pa.s, pH 5.94) and compared its passive dermal delivery with the delivery promoted by photoacoustic waves that transiently perturb the skin barrier.
- Methods : Photoacoustic (PA) waves were generated by laser pulses absorbed by piezophotonic (light-to-pressure) transducers. Pig skin samples were exposed to the 2% AA2G formulation alone or combined with 5 min of PA waves. One hour later, AA2G was extracted from the skin and quantified by reverse-phase HPLC. AA2G transdermal fluxes using Franz cells with 760 μm thick pig skin samples were also measured.
- Results : Photoacoustic waves transiently enhanced skin permeability and increased dermal delivery of AA2G. AA2G was released from the formulation nearly quantitatively (92.6 ± 6.2%) in 24 h, showing a non-Fickian behaviour controlled by diffusion and swelling. AA2G dermal delivery with exposure for 5 min to PA waves was compared with passive delivery to pig skin. PA waves increased the delivery of AA2G to the skin by a factor of 15-fold with respect to passive delivery, as measured from skin extracts after 1 h of contact of the formulation with the skin.
- Conclusion : Five minutes of exposure to PA waves is a safe and effective method to deliver large quantities of AA2G to the skin.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization of photoacoustic waves - Skin samples preparation - Preparation of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside gel formulation - In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro transdermal delivery of ascorbic
acid 2-glucoside - HPLC analytical methods - Data analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside
- Table 1 : High-performance liquid chromatography elution protocol for the quantitative analysis of the transdermal delivery in vitro experiments samples
- Table 2 : Summary of the AA2G release data fit using mathematical models
- Table 3 : Amount of AA2G extracted from skin samples after 12h and 1h of contact with the formulationDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12793 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p9GpgZCE40JSS3624kii6ujQnuogcMdV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38145
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 453-463[article]Ex vivo-In vivo correlation of retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping / Richard Krombholz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)
[article]
Titre : Ex vivo-In vivo correlation of retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Richard Krombholz, Auteur ; Stefanie Fressle, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 299-308 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Barrière cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Microscopie confocale Raman
Pénétration cutanée
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin penetration studies of topically applied drugs are a challenging topic in the development of semisolid formulations. The most commonly used methods can be differentiated by their character into ex vivo/in vivo, invasive/non-invasive and offline/in-line measurements. In this study, we compare ex vivo tape stripping, an invasive technique, which is often used, to confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM), ex and in vivo, to establish a correlation between those methods. Retinol was used as a model drug, applied in an oil-in-water emulsion, to compare the skin penetration profiles obtained by the different methods. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of the retinol emulsion - Preparation of porcine ear skin - Incubation of porcine ear skin - Tape stripping - Retinol quantification by HPLC - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) ex vivo/in situ - Retinol quantification by CRM - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) in vivo - Data evaluation and statistics
- RESULTS : Ex vivo tape stripping - Ex vivo/in situ CRM - In vivo CRMDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12775 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sA91sNCGXy5ZghRFSLH-LkB_5XpKDBVd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38132
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 299-308[article]Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin / Hichem Kichou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
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