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Handbook of cosmetic science and technology / André O. Barel / New York [USA] : Informa Healthcare (2009)
Titre : Handbook of cosmetic science and technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : André O. Barel, Editeur scientifique ; Marc Paye, Editeur scientifique ; Howard I. Maibach, Editeur scientifique Mention d'édition : Third edition Editeur : New York [USA] : Informa Healthcare Année de publication : 2009 Importance : XVI-869 p. Présentation : ill. Format : 26 cm ISBN/ISSN/EAN : 978-1-4200-6963-1 Prix : 243 E Note générale : Index - Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Soins de beautéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : I. SKIN TYPES : 2. Biophysical characteristics of the skin in relation to race, sex, age, and site / 3. Functional map and age-related differences in the human face : nonimmunologic contact urticaria induced by hexyl nicotinate / 4. The Baumann skin-type indicator : a novel approach to understanding skin type / 5. Ethnic differences in skin properties : the objective data / 6. Sensitive skin : sensory, clinical, and physiological factors / 7. Neurophysiology of self-perceived sensitive-skin subjects by functional magnetic resonance imaging / 8. Tests for sensitive skin.
II. SKIN HYDRATION : 9. Mechanisms of skin hydration / 10. Hydrating substances / 11. Skin care products / 12. Tests for skin hydration / 13. Skin capacitance imagine / 14. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy for in vivo skin hydration measurement.
III. SKIN BARRIER AND pH : 15. The correlation between transepidermal water loss and percutaneous absorption : an overview / 16. Role of calcium in the regulation of skin barrier homeostasis / 17. Percutaneous penetration enhancers : an overview / 18. Tests for skin protection : barrier effect / 19. Electron paramagnetic resonance studies of skin lipid structure / 20. Human skin buffering capacity : an overview / 21. Skin pH and skin flora.
IV. SKIN AGING AND SUN CARE PRODUCTS : 22. Skin ageprint : The causative factors / 23. A quantitative approach to age and skin structure and function : protein, glycosaminoglycan, water, and lipid content and structure / 24. Glycation en products / 25. Spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis (SIAscopy) / 26. The visioscan-driven ULEV ans SELS methods / 27. New trends in antiaging cosmetic ingredients and treatments : an overview / 28. Antioxidants / 29. UV filters / 30. Sun protection and sunscreens / 31. After-sun products / 32. Skin care products : artificial tanning / 33. Reconstructed human skin and skin organ culture models used in cosmetic efficacy testing.
V. SKIN PERCEPTION : 34. Skin feel agents / 35. Silicones - A key ingredient in cosmetic and toiletry formulations / 36. Sensory effects and irritation : a strong relationship / 37. Decorative products / 38. Skin radiance measurement / 39. Tribological studies on skin : Measurement of the coefficient of friction / 40. Skin wettability and friction.
VI. SKIN TOLERANCE : 41. Classification of irritant contact dermatitis / 42. Principles and mechanisms of skin irritation / 43. Mechanism of skin irritation by surfactants and anti-irritants for surfactant-based products / 44. In vivo irritation / 45. Noninvasive clinical assessment of skin irritation/inflammation / 46. Detecting skin irritation using enhanced visual scoring : a sensitive new clinical method /
47. Sodium lauryl sulfate - induced irritation in the human face : regional and age-related differences / 48. Irritation differences between genital and upper arm skin and the effects of emollient application / 49. Ethnicity as a possible endogenous factor in irritant contact dermatitis : comparing the irritant response among caucasians, blacks, and asians / 50. In vitro skin irritation testing on skinEthic TM-reconstituted human epidermis : reproductibility for 50 chemicals tested with two protocols / 51. Reconstructed corneal and skin models / 52. Seawater salts : effect on inflammatory skin disease / 53. Allergy and hypoallergenic products / 54. Operational definition of a causative contact allergen - A study with six fragrance allergens / 55. Anti-itch testing : antipruritics / 56. Comedogenicity in rabbit : some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles.
VII. TARGETED COSMETICS : 57. Skin-whitening agents / 58. Skin whitening : New hydroquinone combination / 59. Anticellulite products and treatments / 60. Baby care products / 61. Cosmetics for the elderly / 62. Antiperspirants / 63. Deodorants / 64. Revulsive products : way of action and evaluation of their efficacy / 65. Cooling ingredients and their mechanism of action / 66. Oral cosmetics / 67. Hair conditioners / 68. Measuring hair / 69. The normal nail / 70. Nail cosmetics : handle of skin care.
VIII. COSMETICS VEHICLE : 71. Surfactants : classification / 72. Encapsulation to deliver topical actives / 73. Elastic vesicles as topical/transdermal drug delivery systems / 74. Polymers effect on chemical partition coefficient between powedered human stratum corneum and water.
IX. ETHICS AND REGULATIONS : 75. General concepts of ethics in human testing / 76. Values and limitations of bioengineering measurements / 77. The current regulatory context in the European Union / 78. Trends in cosmetics regulations in the U.S.A.En ligne : http://books.google.fr/books?id=YvYqa1fptDcC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Handbook+of+ [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Web Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=9349 Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 2850 668.5 BAR Monographie Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Exclu du prêt Squamometry : a tool to move from exaggerated to more and more realistic application conditions for comparing the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products / Marc Paye in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999)
[article]
Titre : Squamometry : a tool to move from exaggerated to more and more realistic application conditions for comparing the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marc Paye, Auteur ; Yasmine Cartiaux, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 59–68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Couche cornée
Douceur (toucher)
Patchs cosmétiques
Peau -- Inflammation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
SquamométrieLa squamométrie consiste à collecter les couches les plus superficielles du stratum corneum au moyen d'un adhésif fermement appliqué sur la peau. Les cellules collectées sont colorées et l'intensité de la coloration est en relation directe avec le niveau d'altération de la surface de la peau causé par les produits à base de surfactant.
SurfactantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Squamometry consists of sampling the most superficial layers of the stratum corneum by means of a sticky tape firmly pressed onto the skin. Harvested cells are stained and the intensity of staining is related to the level of skin surface alterations caused by surfactant-based products. This method is extremely sensitive and the current study demonstrates that, thanks to squamometry, product mildness can now be compared without causing skin irritation due to exaggerated application conditions.
In a 15 minute patch test, squamometry assessments ranked a series of surfactants as expected from their known irritation potential, without causing clinical signs of irritation. Similarly, the counter-irritant effect of amphoteric and nonionic surfactants on the irritation potential of anionic surfactants was evidenced. In a 30 minute patch test, shampoos were ranked by squamometry as they were in a classical Soap Chamber Test (48 hours of application). Finally, four hand dishwashing liquids were tested for one week by consumers according to a procedure similar to normal usage of the products, and were classified by squamometry as they were in a previous Soap Chamber Test.
In conclusion, this study suggests that squamometry is able to predict the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products even after very short and realistic application times to volunteers’ skin. Providing further validation, this technique could allow a move to test conditions much closer to the normal usage procedure of the products, to design test protocols much more respectful of panelists’ skin condition, and to get information on product tolerance very quickly.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201638.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201638.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26505
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 59–68[article]