Accueil
Catégories
Ajouter le résultat dans votre panier Affiner la recherche
Etendre la recherche sur niveau(x) vers le bas
Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition / Leslie Labarre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
[article]
Titre : Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 224-235 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Cheveux -- analyse
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Energie de surface
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.
- Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).
- Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.
- Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group
- Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type
- Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquidDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235[article]Hair surface quality : Laser scattering as a tool for characterizing the surface condition and deposits from shampoos and conditioners / Germain Puccetti in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)
[article]
Titre : Hair surface quality : Laser scattering as a tool for characterizing the surface condition and deposits from shampoos and conditioners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Germain Puccetti, Auteur ; L. Kulesar, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 89-98 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
lasers
shampooings
Surfaces -- AnalyseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The hair surface condition underlies many visually perceived attributes such as shine, colour and the 3D perception of a curly hair style. Many factors can alter the hair surface such as cumulated cleansing/styling regimens or chemical treatments which can lead to degradation of the cuticle edges and surface. Similarly, pollutants, sebum, and shampoo/conditioners can build up on the hair surface which are also perceivable to an observer.
- Methods : The highly directive light of a laser is reflected and scattered by the surface of hair fibres into a circular pattern. The angular and spatial characteristics of this pattern reflect the hair geometry and the quality of the hair surface, i.e. the outer cuticle layer. Dark flat hair tresses were used to measure the impact of artificial sebum and shampoo/conditioner regimens on the cuticle surfaces. Also, longer single hair fibres from 4 volunteers were characterized for their surface changes from roots to tips, i.e. over the chronological age of the hair.
- Results : The laser scattering shows clear changes in specular reflection characteristics from treatments and allows for the extraction of the cuticle inclination angle with respect to the hair axis. Deep cleansing or clarifying shampoos do partially restore the cuticle angle by removing residues on the hair surface whereas more conditioning systems can lead to changes in specular reflection angle and scattering, especially for multiple cycles of shampoo + conditioner treatments. Lastly, changes in hair surface can be traced over time of hair age by this approach and are consistent with frequency and nature of hair treatments.
- Conclusions : The method shows great potential for characterizing cleansing regimens in terms of their impact on the hair surface, either as single or multiple washes. Coverage or damage to the hair cuticles appears readily as an angle shift of the specular reflection whereas the quality of the surface topology has a direct impact on the angular width of the specular reflection thus affecting the shine band on a person’s head. Hair ageing from root to tip can be quantified by laser scattering and correlates well with treatment events in time.Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY
- MODEL
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Shampoo cleansing efficacy - Deposits from shampoos and conditioners - Changes in hair surface condition with cumulated daily damageDOI : 10.1111/ics.12590 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33683
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 89-98[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21486 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends / Delvallé Cindy in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)
[article]
Titre : Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Delvallé Cindy, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Garaud, Auteur ; Lanxade Julie, Auteur ; Sabrina Marchioretto, Auteur ; Almeida Daniel, Auteur ; Tafarelo Natalia, Auteur ; Engerer Paige, Auteur ; Aliro Do Vale Isabel, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Cyclopentasiloxane
Gommes et résines
Produits capillaires
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As consumers become increasingly eco-conscious, the personal care and cosmetics market is seeing a rise in demand for biobased and sustainable products. This article presents four new silicone gum blends developed by Dow that are designed to meet these demands without sacrificing performance within hair care formulas. As the market sees growing demand for products that achieve the same performance associated with silicone gum blends using alternative carriers including bio-processed materials and renewable sources, four new blends are now available, designed to meet this need and built from the same silicone gum as traditional blends using cyclopentasiloxane as a carrier. The four blends provide formulators with a new level of flexibility of variety and criteria, including volatility, manufacturing process and the sustainability profile. The blends also now offer a carrier toolbox approach built around the same dimethiconol gum. Hair care formulations created with these blends can achieve smoothness and conditioning while also reaching modern environmental standards. Combining these blends creates additional options for formulators and allows for fine-tuning for specific sets of desired formulation properties and benefits, beyond the traditional performance of silicone gum blends. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods : Sample preparation – Hair care testing - Volatility profile
- Volatility valued
- Comb comfortably : hair combing benefits
- Shine on
- Silky smooth : Hair sensory benefits
- Go for smoothness : coefficient of friction
- Look after your locks : Heat protection
- A win for skin
- Fig. 1 : New silicone gum blends overview
- Fig. 2 : Volatility profiles (32°C) of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 3 : Hair combing performance of new silicone gum blends in cmparison to cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 4 : Shine performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxanebased blend
- Fig. 5 : Sensory on hair of 2 cSt gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentzsiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 6 : Coefficient of friction performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 7 : Heat protection performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 8 : Sensory profle of C13-15 alkane-based silicone gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blendEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OMQhzDmMYr3IrxcUjpMDlmZbLCARmKO2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35000
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 2-7[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22459 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Heat styling damage and formulation options / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)
[article]
Titre : Heat styling damage and formulation options Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 47-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chaleur sèche
Cheveux -- Détérioration
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
SéchageIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The objective of hair styling is to make the hair sit in a way different to how it naturally falls, and there are two main ways to achieve this: by using product, or by using heat to temporarily deform the hair into the desired style. While using specifically formulated products to achieve a style will not cause any damage to healthy hair, the same cannot be said for styling irons. Note de contenu : - What happens to hair when it is styled with irons?
- Damage caused by hair dryers
- Protection needed to cope with styling needs
- Heat protection ingredients
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/157hg4RPRlSocCehXi3u1kkPspU4U87Yg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29314
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 47-48[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19098 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High-perfomance styling products with sustainability / Melissa Vitale in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)
[article]
Titre : High-perfomance styling products with sustainability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Melissa Vitale, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Mousse (chimie)
Polymères
Produits capillaires
Produits coiffantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and formulators are personal care products continue to prefer more natural and sustainable ingredient options, but will not compormise on price or performance for natural ingredients. In hair styling, longevity and volume are the two most important attributes to European consumers. Many hair styling products are designed specifically to help and volume, with some claiming to add 95% more volume or even plump up hair by 39%, thanks to collagen (as an example). Between 35% and 51% of product users in Europe's Big 5 markets - France, Germany, Italy, Spain and the UK - look to add volume to their hair.
In addition, many products carry claims of lasting all day or 24 hours, while several carry claims they will last two to three days, withstanding various element such as high humidity. Producers often use adjectives such as "ultra-resistant" or "Indestructible" to imply more durability to products. Nearly half (47%) of launches in Europe are for products claimed to be long-lasting, exceeding the global average of 44%.
The "sweet spot", then, for formulators is to create a hair styling product that provides maximum hold and volumising performance over a long period of time, and also benefits from a friendlier label. While claims of "natural" ingredients are more prominent and generate a higher level of interest in the US, it benefits producers worldwide to anticipate global interest rather than react to it.Note de contenu : - Extra hold
- Clear gel properties and performance
- Volume evaluation
- Subjective properties
- Mousse properties
- Ingredient compatibility
- TABLES : 1. Gel property comparison - 2. Maltodextrin/VP copolymer vs. PVP K-90 gel - 3. Styling/conditioning mousse dry properties
- Formulation : Extreme hold sustainable styling gelEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cmnXBpyf_Uh9VZzyHnNLvaAt0Yb2VIsJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25613
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016) . - p. 37-40[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17835 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High performing silicone microemulsion in hair care / Tow Kuam Lem in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
PermalinkA highly resistant structure between cuticle and cortex of human hair / Toshie Takahashi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 3 (06/2017)
PermalinkA highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. II. CARB, a penetration barrier / Toshie Takahashi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 1 (02/2019)
PermalinkHolistic hair care innovation / Aude Lemoine-Dessaint in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)
PermalinkHow cationic surfactants neutralize hair frizz / K. Tan in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 6 (06/2023)
PermalinkPermalinkUn hydratant longue-durée et multi-usages / Edouard Decaen in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2019)
PermalinkHydrolysed corn starch for natural hair styling / Sam Costanzo in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022)
PermalinkHydrolyzed proteins for anti-pollution hair care / Saso Efremovski in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 6 (06/2023)
PermalinkPermalinkImpact of polyelectrolyte-surfactant interactions on the rheology and wet lubrication performance of conditioning shampoo / Adeline Maria Benhur in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
PermalinkImproved Poly(D,L-lactide) nanoparticles-based formulation for hair follicle targeting / B. Fernandes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 3 (06/2015)
PermalinkImproving hair thickening with amaranth peptides / Mihaela Gorcea in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 3 (03/2022)
PermalinkIn-cosmetics en avant première / Françoise Basset in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 140 (04-05/1998)
PermalinkIn-cosmetics Global 2018 à Amsterdam / Doria Maïz in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 50 (03-04/2018)
PermalinkInclusivity : strengthening for african-textured hair / Aude Lemoine-Dessaint in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 7 (07/2021)
PermalinkInfluence of sunscreen formulation on the transfer of mineral and organic ultraviolet filters from skin to seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests / Jennifer K. Saxe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)
PermalinkIngredients focus : a concise look at new products in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (09/2011)
PermalinkIngredients focus : hair care and treatment / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (02/2014)
PermalinkIngredients focus : natural and multifunctional styling / Richard Scott in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
PermalinkIngredients focus : novel hair styling products / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 4 (09/2016)
PermalinkPermalinkIngredients that deliver natural styling at its best / Silke Langer in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
PermalinkInnovative surfer styling concepts from nature / Martina Heldermann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 4 (09/2016)
PermalinkInspired by architecture : the hair tensegrity concept / Oscar Expósito in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022)
PermalinkPermalinkInternal structural changes in keratin fibres resulting from combined hair waving and stress relaxation treatments : a Raman spectroscopic investigation / A. Kuzuhara in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 2 (04/2016)
PermalinkIntroducing a new hair care superhero / Anna Aharoni in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
PermalinkInvestigating the origins of nanostructural variations in differential ethnic hair types using X-ray scattering techniques / M. Wade in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 5 (10/2013)
PermalinkInvestigation of pH effect on cationic solute binding to keratin and partition to hair / L. Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 1 (02/2018)
PermalinkInvestigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis / Roger L. McMullen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)
PermalinkIontophoresis in dermal delivery : A review of applications in dermato-cosmetic and aesthetic sciences / Aikaterini Liatsopoulou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
PermalinkIs repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments / Thomas Förster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
PermalinkKeratin-based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties / A. Tinoco in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 4 (08/2018)
PermalinkLait solaire enfant toucher doux FPS 30 / Erik Kelderman in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 25 (01-02/2014)
PermalinkLatest developments in men's grooming / Daniel Whitby in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 1 (02/2018)
PermalinkLet your hair down with a new texture / Flora Bollon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)
PermalinkUn lipide de haute technologie en capillaire / Steve Watkins in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 162 (12/2001)
PermalinkLutte globale contre la pollution, inspirée par la nature / Marlène De Matos in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (12/2020)
PermalinkLa magie d’une microalgue pour la croissance et la force des cheveux / Charlotte Vignal in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-série (2023)
PermalinkPermalinkMeet the anti-frizz durable shape challenge / Marios Hopkins Hatzopoulos in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 5 (05/2023)
PermalinkMen's global styling needs and preferences / Laurie J. Marshall in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014)
PermalinkPermalinkMicellar formulation - Old wine in new skins ? / Kathrin Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)
Permalink