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A new delivery strategy to create effective cosmetics / Eva Rodriguez Hortelano in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 18-20 Titre : A new delivery strategy to create effective cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eva Rodriguez Hortelano, Auteur ; Alfredo Brisac Canales, Auteur ; Marc Prieto, Auteur ; Aina Arbos, Auteur ; Maria Alonso Sande, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 18-20 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Liposomes Nanoémulsions Nanotechnologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Presently, a significant array of cosmetic ingredients fail to exercise their intended action because they are not able to pass through the stratum corneum and epidermis. A good example may be the use of ingredients designed to promote collagen generation by fibroblasts that never act as expected, since they are not able to reach the dermis where fibroblasts are located. Hence, the in vitro testing results never become a reality. In the search of new levels of efficacy, to bring ingredients under the stratum corneum has always been a necessity in dermocosmetology, to reach the deep layers of the skin without the need for injectables and avoid the risk of becoming systemic, suitable for the cosmetic industry. BioDan's thorough knowledge of skin generation, epithelial modelling and 3D bioprinted skin has allowed the development of a new generation of nanocarriers capable of delivering ingredients without the need for injectables deep into the skin's dermis and epidermis, trespassing the stratum corneum, and capable of modulating their penetration capabilities. The new nanocarriers are at least twice as deformable as previous technologies, built with 100% vegetable structures, 100% clean and made with no use of parabens, synthetic chemicals and non-covalent technologies. Extremely biocompatible and biodegradable, Biodan's nanotechnological platform is made of GRAS-listed or organic naturel compounds and tailored with a customised composition to the needs of each individual ingredient. Biodan's new nanostructures are based on the use of new ultradeformable design principles on traditional architectures, such as nanoparticles, micelles, nanocapsules, nanoemulsions or liposomes. In the present study, we will present how two different nanostructures, presenting identical mass compositions and both capable of preserving the integral qualities of active ingredients, bath significantly differ in their behaviour, such as physicochemical properties, toxicity, permeation and delivery. Note de contenu : - Question of structure - Characterisation matters - Toxicity / cell viability in vitro - Vesicle transport and internalisation in vitro - TABLES : 1. Physicochemical characterisation - 2. Deformation ability ratios of the different structures - 3. Transport measurements. Measurement of the fluorimetry of the vesicles present of the culture medium of the BioDan model skin - FIGURES : 1. Transmission Electronic Microscopy micrograph showing the liposome and nanoemulsion morphology - 2. Cell viability of LPs and NEs structures - 3. Transport assay diagram - 4. Graphical disposition of data shown in table 2 - 5. Cell monolayer observed by fluorescence microscopy - 6. Measurement of the fluorescent vesicles present in the monolayer En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/169Had9NtgEcdXPMxIL0jEFWhZIW9XcQG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29306 [article]

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Microbeads and the industry's environmental responsibility / Helena Eixarch in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 22-23 Titre : Microbeads and the industry's environmental responsibility Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Helena Eixarch, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 22-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Microbilles Polluants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Plastic microbeads are a common ingredient of cosmetic and personal care products such as face scrubs, soaps, lotions and toothpastes. They are added to these products for a number of purposes, such as to make the product more abrasive or for decoration. Cosmetics Europe, the European trade association for the cosmetucs and personal care industry, defines plastic microbeads as "intentionally added, water insoluble, solid plastic particles (5mm or less in size)", which are "used to exfoliate or cleanse in rinse-off personal care products"; this specification was added to the definition in 2016, following two international, multi-trade association plastic workshops held in order to harmonise definitions. This definition distinguishes plastic microbeads from microplastics, which are any 5mm or less, water insoluble, solid plastic particles found as marine litter. Note de contenu : - The environmental issues - History of regulatory action in the European Union (EU) - Action in the UK - Action in France - Action in the Nordic region - Can plastic microbeads be banned unilaterally by EU Member States ? - Actions outside Europe En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wY4jCW1OL4YGPHlZGostWJ645Zk2Csn4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29307 [article]

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The skin microbiome, probiotics and skin care / Harald van der Hoeven in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 25-27 Titre : The skin microbiome, probiotics and skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Harald van der Hoeven, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 25-27 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Probiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Bacteria and the skin microbiome are a hot topic in the cosmetic industry, and it looks like they are going to continue to be the centre of attention for a long time to come. In the marketplace the consumer increasingly understands that there are 'good' bacteria too, many of which live on the skin. On a scientific level, however, the skin microbiome is stil an extremely challenging topic. The current scientific understanding of a healthy microbiome is that healthy skin shows a very diverse and heterogeneous microbiome, where hundreds of different species reside on the skin. Inversely, come skin diseases show a skin microbiome which is clearly less diverse, where some species overgrow other species. Additionally, the skin microbiome is very robust. Personal hygiene practices have an impact on the skin microbiome, where the microbes are washed away at least partly, but bounce back relatively easily. UV light has an impact on them too, but they seem to be recovering easily from that as well. The microbes on the skin can even recover fully and relatively quickly after the use of topical antibiotics and antiseptics. The question therefore is: Does the skin microbiome need 'help' from the cosmetic industry at all? In other words: What can be a valid and commercially appealing approach with cosmetic products? Most cosmetic products which mention the skin microbiome claim "mildness to the skin microbiome" or having a "balancing" effect. "Improving" the skin microbiome is a claim which is rarely seen in the cosmetic market, but it is a claim which should resonate with consumers and is of large interest to the cosmetic industry. For the cosmetic industry the challenges lie in finding interesting approaches and claims where the improvement of the composition of the skin microbiome has cosmetic relevance - for instance, "relevant for ageing or sensitive skin." To accomplish this, it is important to understand the skin microbiome and its role more thoroughly. Note de contenu : - The role of the skin microbiome in multifactorial - Skin microbiome and 'probiotic skin care' - Lysates of probiotics: in support of skin - Probiotic lysates and the skin microbiome: challenges turned into opportunities En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HS3sFJkkAQfqsgOkO6YVxw2yZOVtwwLk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29308 [article]

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Viscosity vs rheology : why it is important to formulators / Robert Houlden in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 29-32 Titre : Viscosity vs rheology : why it is important to formulators Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Robert Houlden, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 29-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Rhéologie Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of rheometer in conjunction with a viscometer during formulation development can provide relevant data in areas such as optimisation of sample selection before progressing to an external consumer panel test or passing onto a customer for assessment ; confirmation packaging is suitable for the product eg. roll-on, or orifice size; for suspension products estimation of polymers ability to suspend solids using yield stress data; comparison of excipients (eg polymers, oil/esters, film-formers or silicones) and their effect on 'skin-feel'/'drag' during application to the skin; potential improvements to SPF efficiency of sunscreen formulations. Note de contenu : - Rheology and skin-feel - Ease of removal from container = yield stress - Primary skin feeling = low shear rate - Secondary skin feeling = high shear rate - Final impression due to residue on the skin - Sunscreens and rheology - FIGURES : 1. Viscosity of a carbopol gel measured at different speeds - 2. Brookfield viscosity vs. yield value - 3. Primary skin-feel of creams at 32°C - 4. Cone and plate rheometry viscosity vs. shear rate chart - 5. Viscosity vs shear rate at 32°C = 'skin feel' - 6. Sunscreens with poor rheological properties collapse into the 'skin folds' and do not maintain an even 20 µm film after application - TABLES : 1. Sensory characteristics measured by descriptive analysis - 2. Yield value of several and suspensions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s_umCOQVWBK1r7zYxBPpfjZkzerNY58P/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29309 [article]

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Ingredients focus : eye area care / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 34-35 Titre : Ingredients focus : eye area care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 34-35 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As we work longer hours in more pressurised jobs, the stresses and strains inevitably impact on how we look, with the more delicate areas of skin more prone to damage. The eye area is one of the first to show evidence of stress, with dark circles a common result of lack of sleep, affecting men and women equally. Ingredient manufacturers have therefore created some highly innovative and effective products to enable formulators to deliver fast, cosumer-perceivable improvements to the eye area. Tightening the skin and reducing dark circles to create a more youthful, energised appearance. Following are just a few of the recent launches from the leading ingredient manufacturers. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hwruGRDIv1_TA6OZj2rUxjiFXPfcBz0t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29311 [article]

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Fullerenes improve fine wrinkles around eyes / Hisae Aoshima in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 37-40 Titre : Fullerenes improve fine wrinkles around eyes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hisae Aoshima, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Fullerènes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formation of fine wrinkles during the photo-ageing of skin is caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. Therefore, it is very important to quickly scavenge the ROS generated in skin. Applying a radical scavenger such as an antioxidant to skin is effective for the prevention of wrinkles. However, most antioxidants are unstable in the presence of light and heat, and easily deteriorate under exposure to UV light and heat. Hence, fullerene was hypothesised to be effective in preventing the formation of fine wrinkles .A clinical trial demonstrated that, compared to a placebo cream, a cream containing fullerene significantly reduced the area of wrinkled skin, without any adverse effects; the wrinkle-improving effect may result from the regulation of gene expression involved in wrinkle formation and skin barrier function via ROS scavenging by fullerene. Note de contenu : - Fullerene, a radical scavenger (an antioxidant) - Reducing fine wrinkles by the application of fullerene: Clinical trials - Mechanism of the anti-wrinkle effect: Improving skin barrier function - Suppression of collagenase (MMP-9) expression - FIGURES : 1. Mechanism of wrinkle formation - 2. Synthesis/decomposition of collagen and formation of wrinkles - 3. Cosmetic ingredients containing fullerene. a) Veil fullerene, b) Moist fullerene, c) radical sponge, d) lipo fullerene - Comparison of antioxidant activities of fullerene (C60) and common antioxidants by the ?-carotene bleaching method. Ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate (APPS) - 5. Inhibition of oxidative cytotoxicity by LipoFullerene - 6. Evaluation method of the anti-wrinkle effect. Two dimensional (2D) image analysis of replicas, with oblique illumination - 7. Variation in percentage of wrinkle (average value from 23 individuals) - 8. Recovery of skin barrier function by fullerene - 9. Expression levels of mRNA involved in wrinkle formation - TABLE : Examination conditions of the clinical trial En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCZA5wlQj4Dd2D-Fr137owW54CVifLNS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29312 [article]

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Tightening efficacy of a selfie-ready freezing blast / Miriam Mateu in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Tightening efficacy of a selfie-ready freezing blast Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miriam Mateu, Auteur ; Andrea Esplugas, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Mikel Gorostiaga, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits de la mer -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, 24 hours are not enough for busy lifestyles. Whether your little spare time is due to work and personal duties or social events, your skin needs to be taken care of. Imagine applying a cosmetic product that acts while you are dressing or deciding how to take a selfie. An on-to-go recharging beauty wind to keep up with your daily rhythm. Sirtalice is a marine ingredient from a microorganism collected near Reunion Island, where coral barriers form shallow lagoons of turquoise waters that shelter thousands of marine species. The microorganism was collected during the Malaspina expedition around the world at 3,400m depth and 1.5°C. Sirtalice is an on-to-go freezing energy blast to help breathe out your true beauty, offering an instant lifting and a V-reshape of face contour with long-lasting efficacy. Note de contenu : - The skin's inner chargers - Recharging longevity - Moonlighting charge and oxidative protection - Energy for skin concentration - Tightening flash efficacy - FIGURES : 1. Aconitase 2 induction in skin explants - 2. Vinculin stimulation in skin explants - 3. Sirtalice efficacy in firmness and wrinkle improvement - 4. Crow's feet depth reduction (24,6%) and roughness improvement (6,8%) of volunteer 15(37 years old) - 5. Underneath eye wrinkle depth (32,6% in 30 minutes and 33,9% in 28 days) of volunteer 10 (43 years old) - 6. Crow's feet and underneath eye wrinkle depth (23,9% and 33,9% in 28 days) of volunteer 10 (43 years old) - 7. V-reshape of face contour in 30 minutes and 28 days En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CkoL7r1eA0ASOhjlA0Vmp6pmR8jyv8hJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29313 [article]

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Heat styling damage and formulation options / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 47-48 Titre : Heat styling damage and formulation options Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 47-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chaleur sèche Cheveux -- Détérioration Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Séchage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The objective of hair styling is to make the hair sit in a way different to how it naturally falls, and there are two main ways to achieve this: by using product, or by using heat to temporarily deform the hair into the desired style. While using specifically formulated products to achieve a style will not cause any damage to healthy hair, the same cannot be said for styling irons. Note de contenu : - What happens to hair when it is styled with irons? - Damage caused by hair dryers - Protection needed to cope with styling needs - Heat protection ingredients En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/157hg4RPRlSocCehXi3u1kkPspU4U87Yg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29314 [article]

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Micellar washing is coming to hair care / Andrew McDougall in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 50-51 Titre : Micellar washing is coming to hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrew McDougall, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 50-51 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Nettoyage Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Micelles Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Micellar washing is the latest trend sweeping the beauty industry; it involves using a special micellar water to clean hair. Micellar water takes its names from tiny particles of oil called micelles and it is these micelles that attract the dirt to gently remove residue without stripping moisture from the hair. While micellar cleansers offer ease of use and quick benefits, they also have added features for women who suffer from sinsitivity - Mintel research shows that 24% of UK women who experience sensitivity have used micellar cleansing waters. Micellar water has been popular in facial skin care for being a no-rinse cleanser product. The products embody a 'less is more' message because they contain fewer ingredients, which is what consumers are looking for. With its gentle cleansing capabilities, hair care brands can look to the success of the facial skin care category to utilise the same framework in shampoo and other hair treatments. Note de contenu : - Communicating benefits to allay damage concers - Brands looking to capitalise - Product innovation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/189EgcJk0S3G3kByr5wo0sUVwQHUVdCUS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29315 [article]

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Sugar-based ingredient for hair strengthening / Michael Franzke in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 53-57 Titre : Sugar-based ingredient for hair strengthening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; David Popplewell, Auteur ; Diem Tran, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Emmanuel Everaert, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 53-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Essais dynamiques Glucose Ingrédients cosmétiques Matériaux -- Fatigue Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : FiberHance BM Solution (INCl hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and) hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate) is a new patent pending chemistry in the growing arsenal of ingredients for internal har strenghtening and bond repair. It is based on glucose chemistry and has a unique multifaceted mode of action which penetrates deep into the hair cortex to create new hydrogen and ionic bonds. These support the damaged internal keratin structure and strengthen and provide manageability back to the hair fibre. Note de contenu : - Causes and symptoms of weak hair - The chemistry and mode of action - Test methodology and results - Cyclic tensile fatigue - HPGluconamide/HAGluconate in reactive chemistry systems - FIGURES : 1. Chemical structure - 2. Hair 2x bleached, and then treated with HPGluconamide/HAGluconate (soaked 2% as is solution then washed). Intensity map of band 1400 cm-1 by FTIR - 3. HPGluconamide/HAGluconate provides up to 3w strenghtening across various degrees of damaged hair (in comparison to untreated samples) - 4. HPGluconamide/GAGluconate provides > 3x strenghtening of untreated hair across different types of hair ethnicities - 5. Cyclic tensile fatigue testing of HPGluconamide/HAGluconate containing Ashland prototype shampoo vs. commercial benchmark - 6. Increase of S=O bonds signlas with increase of bleaching intensity - 8. As higher EDF is as lower peak temperature of hair sample - TABLES : 1. Key features and benefits - 2. Ash intensity premium hair repair shampoo (prototype formulation) - 3. Effect of HPGluconamide/HAGluconate in oxidative dyes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ezdy2jpLN7POvR_UMWAbm-Z5AU5NVn_N/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29316 [article]

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Analysing the latest hair styling trends / Andrea Tomlinson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 58-59 Titre : Analysing the latest hair styling trends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea Tomlinson, Auteur ; Bianca Seelig, Auteur ; Helena Wiethoff, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 58-59 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coiffure (cheveux) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits commerciaux Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We know that how we choose to present ourselves to the outside world is important. It effects how we feel, how others see us and how confident we are. Restyling our hair is one major way of changing our appearance. We can send out a clear message with our hair - are you a rebel, a professional, a hipster? Every year the fashions for hair styling change, so BASF Care Creations decided to work with Fashion Snoops to identify the four major themes for 2017. Being in touch with consumers, trends and developments in the marketplace is part of what we call market empathy: It enables us to support our customers in developing products in line with the spirit of the times and positioned to stand out from the competition. Another pillar of our success is science excellence - the technical and scientific know-how, experience and resources BASF Care Creations is built upon. Based on these core strengths our formulation teams across Europe and our product performance experts worked to design and test bespoke formulations to meet the four themes. We then took a range of products into the studio with an experienced stylist and professional models. This allowed us to experience the process from beginning to end and to build upon our experience to deliver our customers high performance, market relevant products and expertise. In 2017, a positive self-image became even more important. While consumers expect a high level of performance from their products, they also expect a range of possibilities. In a world, full of choices, 2017 represents the push for products that allow consumers to share their real self with the world. Note de contenu : - Alive - Smart+Seamless - Glam now - Gen you En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DMO2AB6bBLnq6fmwANa5okmvq6X0DCLH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29322 [article]

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Verifying natural ingredients via carbon-14 testing / Jasmine Garside in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 63-65 Titre : Verifying natural ingredients via carbon-14 testing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jasmine Garside, Auteur ; Anna Lykkeberg, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 63-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Carbone 14 Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Analyse Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although natural labelling in the beauty industry has traditionally been notoriously unregulated, the outcome of four recent legal cases in the US indicates that the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is willing to hold a company accountable for "100% natural" or "all natural" claims and take action when a product labelled as such is found to contain synthetic ingredients. It is therefore in the commercial and legal interests of manufacturers to identify analytical tools that allow them to verify and measure the natural source before risking the bottom line and brand name. The move toward plant-based ingredients places a greater responsibility on cosmetics manufacturers to test that raw materials purchased as 'natural' have not been adulterated and to substantiate claims on their final products through reproducible analyses such as carbon-14 testing Note de contenu : - Booming market for natural cosmetic products - How does carbon-14 testing work for natural products ? - Regulatory and labelling challenges when switching to natural - Quality assurance: checking that 'natural' is indeed natural - Is 100% natural a realistic goal? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bOiYH8Qn8T8UCqMdj-dwQji182x_Wvn_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29323 [article]

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Study design for anti-pollution claims / Fabrice Perin in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 67-69 Titre : Study design for anti-pollution claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fabrice Perin, Auteur ; Céline Blanché, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Evaluation Peau -- analyse Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review has briefly discussed the rationale behind anti-pollution testing of cosmetic products, and presented some examples of pollution models as well as in vitro and in vivo tests. It is reasonable to assume that in vitro methods are used primarily as proof of concept to investigate and/or confirm the biological mechanism involved in the anti-pollution effect claimed of new ingredients, whereas in vivo tests are more interesting from the perspective of gathering data to support claims of finished cosmetic products. This article focused on methods usable for the evaluation of products applied on the skin. But it should not be forgotten that anti-pollution tests dedicated to hair care products are also available. To conclude with some perspectives, in the future it is likely that metabolomics, a relatively recent approach which deals with the analysis of metabolites present in biological samples combined with statistical analysis, has the potential to investigate profile variations in metabolites concentrations after exposure to pollutants. Metabolomics will certainly be extremely useful to investigate the impact of environmental pollutants on skin metabolism. And it will also be a new tool to demonstrate the effect of anti-pollution skin treatments. Note de contenu : - Design a study - Fig. 1. Application of artificial dirt for the assessment of the efficacy of a cleansing treatment - Fig. 2. Evaluation by a trained assessor of the radiance of the facial complexion using the CLBT method En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Ccqq8Jen00TkecuQdqP4UIygGTMSgpT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29324 [article]

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Reliable analysis of cosmetic oil absorption / Carsten Stratmann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 71-73 Titre : Reliable analysis of cosmetic oil absorption Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carsten Stratmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 71-73 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Cosmétiques -- Analyse Huiles et graisses Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The analysis of the oil absorption number (OAN) plays a key role during quality control for cosmetic raw and source materials. A team of researchers in the areas of science and industry have been looking for a device that delivers reproducible and accurate results using the oil absorption method, before finding the Brabender Absoptometer C - a system which has so far mainly been used for the quality testing of carbon blacks. Note de contenu : - How does the analytical measurement method work ? - Study carried out on various raw materials - Results with a variety of basic materials - Potential for the cosmetics industry En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LmhNmuklbaWhT2uUOu9Eu5ONx7axJ_91/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29325 [article]

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Test equipment supports anti-pollution claims / Christiane Uhl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 74-76 Titre : Test equipment supports anti-pollution claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christiane Uhl, Auteur ; Diana Khazaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 74-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Tests cutanés Tests d'efficacité Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A higher concentration of pollution is certainly an accelerator for premature skin ageing. The influence of ethnicity, especially on the mechanical skin properties, has been stated many times :2 Its effect on premature skin ageing will however also depend on geographical factors, basically because the degree of pollution is much higher in the large urbanisations. The anti-pollution daim is discussed everywhere because consumers perceive it as highly important and in the past few years, a lot of literature has been published on the subject. There is no current conference on subjects related to skin and cosmetics where pollution is not on the agenda. Even though on the marketing side, it may appear to be a new trend, in fact, clinically it cornes down to one of the oldest of all cosmetic daims: anti-ageing. A complex daim, which has always been in the centre of daims and efficacy tests. Note de contenu : - What is pollution ? - How can pollution-related claims be substantiated ? : Hyper pigmentation - Skin barrier - TEWL and hydration - Irritation - Effect on sebum - Radiance and wrinkles - Barrier quality - FIGURES : 1. Growing awareness of pollution especially affects larger urban areas - 2. Mexameter probe to assess hyperpigmented skin - 3. The worldwide most used method of the open chamber to assess TEWL/barrier quality - 4. Impressive monitoring of the signs of acne by fluorescence - 5. Easy determination of the skin's sebum level with the sebumeter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KWPAZCz0Zd0QLMcgjp8pG_SRoMQX46nB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29328 [article]

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HtrA1 and maintenance of epidermis homeostasis / Miyuki Fujishiro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) . - p. 79-82 Titre : HtrA1 and maintenance of epidermis homeostasis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miyuki Fujishiro, Auteur ; Mariko Yokota, Auteur ; Shoichi Yahagi, Auteur ; Satoru Hashimoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 79-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epiderme Erable et constituants Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Homéostasie L'homéostasie (du grec "hómoios", "similaire", et "stásis", "stabilité, action de se tenir debout") est la capacité que peut avoir un système quelconque (ouvert ou fermé) à conserver son équilibre de fonctionnement en dépit des contraintes qui lui sont extérieures. L'homéostasie est la maintenance de l'ensemble des paramètres physico-chimiques de l'organisme qui doivent rester relativement constants (glycémie, température, taux de sel dans le sang, etc.). Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptidases Sérine La sérine est un acide-α-aminé en C3, homologue hydroxylé de l'alanine. C'est un acide aminé aliphatique hydroxylé, dont le nom en nomenclature systématique est acide 2-amino-3hydroxypropanoïque. Il est présent dans la plupart des protéines et c'est l'un des 20 acides aminés naturels les plus courants sur terre. C'est un acide aminé polaire, faiblement acide à cause de sa fonction alcool primaire en beta. Le groupement OH de la chaîne latérale peut être estérifié en présence d'un groupement phosphate. La sérine a pour codons : AGU, AGC, UCA, UCU, UCG, UCC. La D-Sérine, synthétisée par la sérine racémase à partir de L-serine, sert de signal neuronal en activant le récepteur NMDA dans le cerveau. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : HtrA1 is serine protease which has been identified in the epidermis. Although the precise function of HtrA1 in the epidermis is still unclear, some reports have suggested that HtrA1 is involved in programmed cell death, apoptosis and anoikis. On the other hand, it is generally known that excess apoptosis caused by UVB exposure is involved in the accumulation of cell damage in the skin epidermis, and it adversely affects skin epidermis homeostasis that causes chronic cell inflammation and parakeratosis. However, the precise mechanism underlying how UVB induced apoptosis adversely affects epidermal alterations has not been elucidated. This study aims to clarify the behaviour of HtrA1 in the apoptosis of epidermal cells induced by UVB exposure. Furthermore, we evaluated the efficacy of Japanese maple extract, a potent inhibitor of HtrA1 we found through this study. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - UVB source and irradiation - Wester blotting for HtrA1 - Inhibition against proteolytic activity of HTRA1 - INHIBITORY EFFECT OF JAPANESE MAPLE EXTRACT ON APOPTOSIS : Measurement of VEGF secretion - CLINICAL TEST - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : UVB-induced HTRA1 secretion in NHKs - Inhibitory effect of Japaneses maple extract on HtrA1 activity - Inhibitory effect of Japanese maple extract on apoptosis - CLINICAL TEST : HtrA1-induced VEGF secretion in JHKs - Inhibitory effect of Japanese maple extract on VEGF release En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/160uhWRBGIiHNMZDpAQWW6-iShrc5arIh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29329 [article]

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Stimulating endorphins and sex hormones in the skin / Daniel Schmid in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 4 (09/2017) Titre : Stimulating endorphins and sex hormones in the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Endorphines Hormones sexuelles Peau -- Soins et hygiène Poivres et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The peptide hormone beta-endorphin and the steroid hormone dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) play important roles in the skin. The fast that they are aise synthesised locally in the skin makes them interesting targets for cosmetic ingredients. An extract of monk's pepper (Vitex agnus-castus) was found to perform like beta-endorphin and to stimulate the synthesis of DHEA. In a clinical study, the extract showed significant effects on skin elasticity and density. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. Competition between beta-endorphin and an extract of Vtex agnus-castus in binding to opioid receptors. The smaller the indicated IC50-values (µg/ml) the stronger the brinding of the extract to the receptor - Fig. 2. The biosynthesis of the sex hormones from the cholesterol precursor - Fig. 3. Stimulation of the synthesis of DHEA and androstenedione by the monk's pepper extract at 0,1 % - Fig. 4. Improvement of skin elasticity after four weeks of treatment witha cream containing 2% monk's pepper ingredient - Fig. 5. Ultrasonographic images of the forearm of a volunteer before and after tratment. Colour scale : white - yellow - red - green - blue - black ; light colours indicating high echogenicity and thus high skin density En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ikZrRzzU5gqSEH9mXZsZ2PPLAJIK9KnU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29330 [article]

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