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Clean beauty natural deodorant formulations / Aleksandra Zmiric in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)
[article]
Titre : Clean beauty natural deodorant formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksandra Zmiric, Auteur ; Tom Fricke, Auteur ; Johannpeter Wiebke, Auteur ; Ute Back, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 50-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bactéries
Caprylyl glycéryl éther
Déodorants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits de beauté masculinsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The author explains how the combination of Velsan CGE and CareMag D can satisfy the most important requirements of actual consumers oriented to Clean Beauty deodorants without compromising the performance and skin homeostasis.
During the past few decades, there has been an increased interest in the essential role of commensal skin bacteria in human body odour formation.1 Sweating is the body’s natural way of cooling down. Sweating is not problematic but in certain conditions sweat has a stronger odour than usual.
Human skin has two major types of sweat glands, the apocrine and the eccrine glands. Eccrine glands are often referred to as the small gland variety but are by far the most ubiquitous type of sweat gland. Most of the variability in regional and whole-body sweating rate within and between individuals is due to differences in sweat secretion rate per gland, rather than the total number of active sweat glands.Â
Eccrine sweat glands primarily respond to thermal stimuli; particularly increased body core temperature, and eccrine sweat is mostly composed of water and salt.
Apocrine glands differ from eccrine glands in that they are larger and open into hair follicles instead of onto the skin surface (Figure 1). Apocrine glands produce viscous, lipid-rich sweat, which is comprised of proteins, sugars and ammonia.
Some human sweat glands cannot be classified as either apocrine or eccrine, having characteristics of both; such glands are termed apoeccrine. They are larger than eccrine glands, but smaller than apocrine glands. Their secretory portion has a narrow portion similar to secretory coils in eccrine glands as well as a wide section reminiscent of apocrine glands.Note de contenu : - Malodour formation on human axillary
- Approaches to body odour control
- Synergy between magnesium minerals and Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether
- Magnesium mineral
- Formula proposal for various deodorant format
- Natural deodorant O/W emulsion roll-on
- Natural deodorant W/O creams
- Natural deodorant stick
- Naturally-derived deodorant soap
- Fig. 1 : Comparison of the apocrine,eccrine and sebaceous glands in the axilla
- Fig. 2 : Bacteria involved in body odour formation and odourous substances
- Fig. 3 : Biotransformation of sweat and sebum
- Fig. 4 : Structure of Caprylyl glyceryl ether
- Table 1 : Mic values of Caprylyl ether and ethylhexylglyceerin on bacteria, including body odour related bacteria strain
- Formulation 1 : Natural deodorant O/W emulsion roll-on
- Formulation 2 : Natural deodorant W/O creamsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14nI_FOwGOyMNm03603tk-UaSibEtD1mx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38363
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022) . - p. 50-54[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23569 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Clearing senescent cells for rejuvenated skin / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Clearing senescent cells for rejuvenated skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 144-146 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Carbonylation
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Fibroblastes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protéines
Régénération (biologie)
VieillissementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cellular senescence is one of the hallmarks of ageing. Senescent cells that reside in the dermis as a result of the ageing process and oxidative stress, secrete pro-inflammatory factors that further contribute to ageing.
Therefore, eliminating senescent cells has emerged as a promising anti-ageing therapy in the medical field in the past few years. This novel concept known as ‘senolytics’ helps to clear tissues of senescent cells without affecting healthy cells in order to reduce inflammation and rejuvenate the tissue. For the first time, this concept has been adapted for cosmetics. An extract from organic alpine rose leaves demonstrated a clear senolytic activity on senescent fibroblasts. In placebo-controlled clinical studies, the alpine rose extract prevented the formation of protein carbonyls, one of the most harmful irreversible modifications of proteins, upon UVA irradiation. In addition, treatment with alpine rose extract significantly reduced skin redness and increased elasticity.Note de contenu : - Senolytic drugs to promote longevity
- Protein carbonylation
- An extract from organic Swiss alpine rose leaves
- Materials and methods : Senolytic assay - In vivo protein carbonylation assay - Clinical anti-ageing study
- Results and discussion : Alpine rose extract has senolytic activity - Alpine rose extract prevents protein carbonylation - Increase in skin elasticity and decrease in rednessEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RHJdbDdfywG1ehP1WKEgEq-6J2D9scxo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33964
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 144-146[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21621 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin / Ariadna Ortiz Brugués in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)
[article]
Titre : Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ariadna Ortiz Brugués, Auteur ; Lara Claude Braeuer, Auteur ; Jean-Baptiste Grieu, Auteur ; Ying Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 29-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : 4-t-butylcyclohexanol
Baumes
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau asiatique
Sensibilité cutanée
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : Asian subjects are particularly prone to skin sensitivity. We developed a facial cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol to provide skin comfort and a soothing effect for sensitive skin.
- Objectives : Assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance and efficacy in improving skin sensitivity of face cream and balm under normal conditions of use by a population known to be particularly prone to this problem.
- Methods : In a monocentric non-randomized open trial, the cream or balm was applied twice daily to the face, neck, and eye contour of 33 stinger subjects with hypersensitive skin (22-63 years old). Assessments included dermatological and ophthalmological physical and functional signs on Day 1 (D1), D8, and D22, and cosmetic acceptability, cutaneous sensitivity according to a stinging test and the sensitive scale, and the soothing efficacy according to a questionnaire on D22.
- Results : The cream and balm were very well tolerated. Immediately after application, subjects reported a reduction in the skin's hypersensitivity (93.9% of subjects for the cream and 81.8% for the balm), skin redness (90.9% of subjects for the cream and 87.9% for the balm), sensations of tightness (93.9% for the cream and 97.0% for the balm), and discomfort sensations (93.9% for the cream and 87.9% for the balm). After 21 days, the application of the cream and balm decreased the stinging scores by 65% and 41%, respectively, with 94% and 77% of subjects showing an improvement, respectively. The sensitivity scale questionnaire indicated that the cream and balm significantly and profoundly decreased all negative signs, for example, irritability, stinging, general discomfort, redness, and dryness on D22 compared to D1. On D22, all 15 parameters recorded were improved by 89%–100% by the cream and by 74%–100% by the balm. The majority (90.9% and 96.8% of subjects using the cream and balm, respectively) of the subjects noticed positive changes in their skin condition after using the product for 21 days.
- Conclusions : The cream and balm were very well-tolerated. This study demonstrated that both products controlled and markedly reduced skin hypersensitivity in Asian subjects, with an immediate and lasting skin soothing and repairing effect over 21 days.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test formulations - Subjects - Treatment and evaluation visits - Evaluations
- RESULTS : Dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance - Efficacy endpointsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12822 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19HbQq9f8ZWvdcEcjZB0IuVotmZZT3x1O/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38817
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 29-37[article]Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims / Anne Charpentier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)
[article]
Titre : Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Dermo-cosmétologie
ExposomeL'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à -dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome.
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques)
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé :
It is important in the first instance to understand that the focus of this article is on what we classify as 'true', 'authentic' or 'unadulterated' butters in the personal care market.
Such a butter may simply be defined as "the fat obtained from the fruit, nut or seed from a specific botanical source". Further to this, it is recognised that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semisolid state at a temperature range of 20°C - 30°C. While butters are significant to the food industry, cocoa and shea being two key raw materials for confectionary, we can equally identify with both as having major importance within the personal care market. That said, butter demand continues to grow but more-so outside of these two historic core materials. What were historically recognised as the base ingredient, or an important component, in many personal care products on which a formulation was focused, butters in the personal care evolution have taken an exotic route through authenticity. Listing Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the product portfolio, when presented to formulators, now extends to such product names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. Multi-functional as they are, the everdeveloping world and increasingly consumer-led demand means formulators are keen to explore the growing number of commercially available butters now present in the market for a variety of skin, lip and hair care applications.Note de contenu : - The exposome process beyond the ageing mechanisms
- The various ways to objectivate this claim
- From trends to high-tech
- The bright future of skin science
- Table 1 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation terms
- Table 2 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation. Clinical assessmentEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14agJpXJE4bAKDXxiFWX1xtNOYzJgJ-ZC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34285
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 67-69[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21749 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Coffee silverskin upcyclé et renfort cutané / Kathrin Nowak in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-Série (12/2022)
[article]
Titre : Coffee silverskin upcyclé et renfort cutané Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kathrin Nowak, Auteur ; Katharina Kappler, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Stéphane Poigny, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 240-244 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Biomolécules actives
Café et constituants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Protection cutanée
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : SLVR'coffee est un actif obtenu d'un extrait du tégument des grains de café pour hydrater la peau et améliorer le confort des peaux sèches. Il protège des facteurs de stress internes et externes de même que de la perte insensible en eau renforçant ainsi la fonction de barrière cutanée. Note de contenu : - Café et silverskin
- Upcycling et silverskin
- Les molécules d'intérêt pour la barrière cutanée
- Protection et régénération de la peau
- Hydratation des peaux sèches
- Fig. 1 : Origine du silverskinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ovqkfATLcnDH_1IDclQrdKRRcVynFI5A/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38622
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