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The under-eye area : one of our greatest challenges / Harald van der Hoeven in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
[article]
Titre : The under-eye area : one of our greatest challenges Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Harald van der Hoeven, Auteur ; Heiko Prade, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 54-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Autophagie L’autophagie, autolyse ou autophagocytose, désigne une dégradation d'une partie du cytoplasme de la cellule par ses propres lysosomes. L'histolyse est le même processus, mais intervenant lors d'une métamorphose, il est utile à l'organisme (par exemple, les amphibiens). L'histolyse est également présente au cours du développement embryonnaire ou en fin de lactation.
Le terme d'autophagie regroupe plusieurs voies de dégradation lysosomale des constituants cellulaires, essentielles à l’homéostasie cellulaire. Il existe trois types différents d’autophagies dont : la microautophagie, l’autophagie réalisée par des protéines chaperonnes, et la macroautophagie (la forme principale). La macroautophagie, appelée couramment autophagie, est un mécanisme permettant à la cellule de digérer une partie de son contenu, que ce soit du cytoplasme, des protéines ou des organites cellulaires. C’est la seule voie qui puisse dégrader massivement des macromolécules et des organites, c’est une voie de dégradation alternative à celle du protéasome.
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Mélanogénèse
Pigmentation de la peauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dark circle and puffiness make people look tired and older, and can have a significant impact on quality of life. Men and women are equally affected and although ageing plays a causative role, these phenomena are seen in people of all ages.
Different aspects which are unique for the so-called periorbital skin play central roles in the development and persistence of dark circles and puffiness. Ethnicity is another important factor. The complexity of the problems needs to be fully appreciated in order to provide satisfactory solutions for all types of skin. The main dermatological and cellular events are mentioned and shortly explained below.Note de contenu : - Skin translucency
- Skin laxity
- Pigmentation
- Cutaneous lymphatic system
- Haemocongestion
- Downstream of haemocongestion : haeme
- EFFICACY STUDIES - IN VITRO ASSAYS : Haeme and HO-1 expression - Method - Results
- AUTOPHAGY : Method - Results
- MELANOGENESIS UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF HAEME AND UV RADIATION : Method - Results
- Fig. 1 : HB complex promotes the expression of HO-1, despite prolonged exposure to haeme
- Fig. 2 : HB complex promotes autophagy
- Fig. 3 : 3% HB complex clearly reduces the surface area of dark circles after 56 days of use
- Fig. 4 : HB complex increases VEGF-C production in lymphatic endothelial cells
- Fig. 5 : 3% HB complex clearly reduces the surface area of dark circles after 56 days of use
- Fig. 6 : HB complex leads to a stronger reduction of the surface area of dark circles than placebo
- Fig. 7 : HB complex leads to a stronger reduction of the colour of dark circle than placeboEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xwd4PaUnlRhN1AyNrX_tOgwp7pgU20Z3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35508
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021) . - p. 54-56[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22585 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The window to eye beauty : a new "non-gender" eye care active ingredient / Meritxell Llinas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)
[article]
Titre : The window to eye beauty : a new "non-gender" eye care active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Meritxell Llinas, Auteur ; Elaine Ferreira, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Julia A. Boras, Auteur ; Patricia Carulla, Auteur ; Marco J. Klein, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Enzymes microbiennes
Etudes cliniques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin around the eyes, also known as the periocular area, shows expressions and emotions that are an important part of our personality. One of the first facial areas where visible signs of aging begin to emerge is around the eyes. In fact, the eyes are the focal point of the face and the apparition of bags, dark circles and wrinkles, gives to face a tired appearance and/or make one to look and feel a lot older than she/he really is. We present a new cosmetic Mediterranean active ingredient, Meiview™, an exclusive bacterial ferment extract derived from an endophyte Bacillus, found in Mallorca (Spain), living in symbiosis with one of the most salt tolerant halophilic plant (Arthrocnemum macrostachyum). Meiview™ presents a broad-spectrum of eye care efficacy. In addition, its efficacy was tested in vivo in women and men volunteers. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Gene expression modulation in three types of skin cells - Anticollagenase activity inhibition - Plakoglobin synthesis - Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEFG-A) release - Vascular permeability inhibition and endothelial resistance modulation - Bilirubin degradation - Chelating activity on metal ions (Fe2+) - Melanin synthesis inhibition - Epidermal thickness and collagen/Expression on human skin explants - In vivo efficacy study
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Role of the bacillus ferment on the cell-cell adhesion and extracellular matrix maintenance - Role of the bacillus ferment on the vascular fragility and permeability of blood vessels - Role of the bacillus ferment on the accumulation of coloured blood-products and melanin - Clinical instrumental evaluation in the eye contour areaEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BouMOOEyvHIMnqRLQn6a2tfokV9EjD09/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33152
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 20-24[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21167 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo / Marta Bertolini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)
[article]
Titre : Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Bertolini, Auteur ; Y. Ramot, Auteur ; Jennifer Gherardini, Auteur ; G. Heinen, Auteur ; Jérémy Chéret, Auteur ; T. Weiss, Auteur ; M. Giesen, Auteur ; Wolfgang Funk, Auteur ; Ralf Paus, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 79-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cellules souches
Dermatologie
Dermo-cosmétologie
Mélatonine
MénadioneLa ménadione est une naphtoquinone synthétique analogue à la 1,4-naphtoquinone avec un groupe méthyle en position 2. Elle présente une activité biologique voisine de la vitamine K et est de ce fait appelée parfois vitamine K3, bien qu'il s'agisse plus exactement d'une provitamine K2 en tant que précurseur des ménaquinones.
La ménadione n'est plus utilisée dans les compléments alimentaires des pays développés en raison d'effets secondaires délétères tels que l'anémie hémolytique résultant d'un favisme acquis, ou bien des anomalies induites chez le nourrisson au niveau du cerveau et du foie, voire de rares cas de mort subite du nourrisson. Pourtant cet usage est largement répandu chez les tradipraticiens congolais et guinéens qui l'utilisent comme substitut de la quinine.
La ménadione est cependant encore utilisée comme supplément vitaminique auprès des populations à faibles revenus des pays en voie de développement, ainsi que dans l'alimentation du bétail dans de nombreux pays. Elle est également parfois ajoutée à l'alimentation des animaux domestiques des pays développés.
Elle fait l'objet de recherches en chimiothérapie associée à la vitamine C contre le cancer de la prostate et pour réduire les déficits en prothrombine (facteur de coagulation II) et les risques d'hémorragies associés. De plus, un déficit de production serait en cause dans certains cas d'infection de Staphylococcus aureus résistant aux antibiotiques.
MétallothionéineLes métallothionéines (MTs) sont des protéines de faibles poids moléculaire (6-10 kDa) caractérisées par leur structure et une haute affinité pour les ions métalliques. Elles sont présentes chez tous les animaux.
Présentes chez de nombreux animaux et chez tous les mammifères1, elles contribuent à la détoxication des organes et cellules. Elles peuvent inhiber l'action de certains médicaments (anticancéreux alkylants notamment).
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
ThéophyllineLa théophylline est un alcaloïde du type méthylxanthine. Il s'agit de la 1,3-diméthyl xanthine. C'est, avec d'autres alcaloïdes comme la caféine ou la théobromine, l'une des principales substances actives des feuilles de thé, d'où elle tire son nom. Elle est également présente entre autres dans le café, le chocolat, le maté et le guarana.
Elle agit comme diurétique, comme psychostimulant, comme bronchodilatateur et comme agent lipolytique.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Theophylline is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor that is being used clinically for asthma therapy. In addition, it is recognized as a cosmetic agent with possible anti-ageing and anti-oxidative properties. Nevertheless, how it affects human skin is still poorly examined.
- Methods : Theophylline (10 or 100 µM) was administered to the culture medium of full-thickness human skin ex vivo for 24 or 72 h.
- Results : Theophylline stimulated protein expression of the anti-oxidant metallothionein-1 and mRNA levels of collagen I and III. Assessment of fibrillin-1 immunohistology revealed enhanced structural stability of dermal microfibrils. Theophylline also exerted extracellular matrix-protective effects by decreasing MMP-2 and MMP-9 mRNA levels, partially antagonizing the effects of menadione, the potent, toxic ROS donor. In addition, it decreased menadione-stimulated epidermal keratinocytes apoptosis. Interestingly, theophylline also increased the level of intracutaneously produced melatonin, that is the most potent ROS-protective and DNA damage repair neuromediator, and tendentially increased protein expression of MT1, the melatonin receptor. Theophylline also increased the expression of keratin 15, the stem cell marker, in the epidermal basal layer but did not change mitochondrial activity or epidermal pigmentation.
- Conclusion : This ex vivo pilot study in human skin shows that theophylline possesses several interesting complex skin-protective properties. It encourages further examination of theophylline as a topical candidate for anti-ageing treatment.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human skin organ culture - Immunofluorescence microscopy and Masson-Fontana histochemistry - Quantitative real-time reverse transcriptase-PCR (qRT-PCR) and ELISA - Quantitative immunohistomorphometry - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Theophylline improves selected major human skin ageing parameters - Theophylline partially antagonizes keratinocytes apoptosis induced by menadione - Theophylline increases melatonin levels and MT1 expression - Theophylline does not affect epidermal pigmentation or mitochondrial activity - Theophylline stimulates keratin 15 expression -DOI : 10.1111/ics.12589 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33682
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21486 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Thiamidol containing treatment regimens in facial hyperpigmentation : An international multi-centre approach consisting of a double-blind, controlled, split-face study and of an open-label, real-world study / W. G. Philipp-Dormston in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)
[article]
Titre : Thiamidol containing treatment regimens in facial hyperpigmentation : An international multi-centre approach consisting of a double-blind, controlled, split-face study and of an open-label, real-world study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : W. G. Philipp-Dormston, Auteur ; A. Vila Echagüe, Auteur ; S. H. Pérez Damonte, Auteur ; J. Riedel, Auteur ; A. Filbry, Auteur ; K. Warnke, Auteur ; C. Lofrano, Auteur ; D. Roggenkamp, Auteur ; G. Nippel, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 377-387 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Peau -- Physiologie
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
Rugosité
Thiamidol
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. Thiamidol is the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase out of 50 000 tested compounds. In clinical studies, it was shown to improve facial hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and age spots significantly. To identify the optimal number of daily Thiamidol applications, we conducted a split-face study comparing the efficacy and tolerability of four-times with two-times daily application. Subsequently, we evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a typical face care regimen containing Thiamidol in a real-world study.
- Methods : The split-face study was double-blind, randomized, controlled, including two Thiamidol containing products (serum and day care SPF 30). The serum was applied twice daily on one half of the face and the day care SPF30 twice-daily on the whole face. The real-world study was open-label, observational, including three Thiamidol containing products (day care SPF 30 in the morning, serum and night care in the evening). In both studies, subjects with mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation applied the products over 12 weeks. Assessments included clinical and subjective grading of hyperpigmentation, skin condition, hemi-/modified MASI, chromameter and clinical photography.
- Results : In the split-face study (n = 34), hyperpigmentation, skin roughness and hMASI improved all significantly (P < 0.001) versus baseline, with first visible results after two weeks of twice-daily application. The four-times daily application led to significant improvement versus the two-times daily application. In the real-world study (n = 83), all evaluated parameters, including skin condition and chromametry (n = 30), improved significantly (P < 0.001) in comparison with baseline and the corresponding preceding visits. The subjects judged the cosmetic properties of the products positively. In both studies, the products were well tolerated.
- Conclusion : Four-times daily Thiamidol improves facial hyperpigmentation significantly more than two-times daily and is well tolerated by the subjects. The real-world study with a typical face care regimen containing Thiamidol shows improvement of facial hyperpigmentation and confirms tolerability. Furthermore, the data provide evidence for the suitability of this three-product Thiamidol regimen for day-to-day life.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Split-face study - Real-world study - Statistics
- RESULTS : Split-face study - Real-world study
- Table 1 : Overview of methods of the two studies (split-face and real-world)
- Table 2 : INCI composition of the test products
- Table 3 : Demographic characteristics of the subjects of both studies (splitface and real-world)
- Table 4 : Self-grading of product performanceDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12626 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qaZx6p66xka-JhsDsVVOmJVwNg88ZpiO/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35289
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 377-387[article]Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)
[article]
Titre : Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 405-409 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée
Antiâge
Dermo-cosmétologie
Diffusion (physique)
Organosilicones
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pénétration (physique)
Perméation
Tests de sécurité
VectorisationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Organic silicon has been linked to positive effects on the skin rejuvenation, mainly by the oral route. Thus, the main objective of the present study was to assess whether monomethylsilanetriol (MMST, a source of organic silicon) can deliver silicon to the epidermis and dermis, when applied topically in a cream. Once the hypothesis was confirmed, the present study also evaluated whether the product was toxic to keratinocytes ; additionally, its possible antioxidant activity was assessed.
- Methods : The ex vivo skin permeation profile was determined using human skin in Franz-cells equipment; cytotoxicity was assessed using HaCaT keratinocytes. Antioxidant capacity was determined as scavenging activity, measured according to the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil free radical method.
- Results : The permeation percentage was almost 60% of the applied MMST, with a large quantity of drug found in the viable epidermis and dermis. The cell viability assay showed no significant difference in the percentage of viable keratinocytes among the treated groups at the doses used. In terms of antioxidant activity, the IC50 value obtained was 2400 μg mL−1. Low antioxidant activity, negligible toxicity for keratinocytes and a significant percentage of permeation were observed.
- Conclusion : We provide evidence that MMST applied topically can deliver silicon to the skin in biorelevant levels for cosmetic purposes.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Si quantification - Ex vivo skin permeation - Cytotoxicity : cell viability assay - Antioxidant activity
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Ex vivo skin permeation - Cytotoxicity : cell viability assay - Antioxidant activityDOI : 10.1111/ics.12552 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33121
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21170 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)
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