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Regulatory update for the European Union / Martin Perry in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 11-14 Titre : Regulatory update for the European Union Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Perry, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 11-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne Cosmétiques -- Législation Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article looks at the amendments that have been made to the European cosmetic Regulation (EC) N° 1223/2009 in 2019. It also looks at the final opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) for 2019 and for the first quarter of 2020. Note de contenu : - Commission Regulation (EU) 2019/1857 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2019/1858 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2019/1966 - SCCS opinions 2019 - March 2020 :SCCS/1591/17 butylphenyl - SCCS/1605/19 methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate - SCCS/1613/19 aluminium in cosmetic products - SCCS/1614 zinc pyrithione - SCC/1608/19 hydroxypropyl p-phenylenediamine and its dihydrochloride-salt - SCCS/1609/19 methylimidazoliumpropyl p-penylenediamine HCI - SCCS/1610/19 tetrabromophenol blue - SCCS/1612/19 dihydroxyacetone - SCCS/1598/18 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene - Titanium dioxide En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VsFqwdLGIp3iFuv7DQ5A0oTB0H2VhHAW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34273 [article]

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Innovative active fights zombie cells for well-ageing / Pascale Prouheze in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 21-24 Titre : Innovative active fights zombie cells for well-ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pascale Prouheze, Auteur ; Jessica Guglielmi, Auteur ; Barbara Morand, Auteur ; Frédéric Maccario, Auteur ; Pierre-Gilles Markioli, Auteur ; Noëlle Garcia, Auteur ; Mélanie Mollet, Auteur ; Lionel Valenti, Auteur ; Emmanuel Coste, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 21-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge Biomolécules actives Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polyphénols Les polyphénols constituent une famille de molécules organiques largement présente dans le règne végétal. Ils sont caractérisés, comme l’indique le nom, par la présence d'au moins deux groupes phénoliques associés en structures plus ou moins complexes, généralement de haut poids moléculaire. Ces composés sont les produits du métabolisme secondaire des plantes. Les polyphénols prennent une importance croissante, notamment grâce à leurs effets bénéfiques sur la santé. En effet, leur rôle d’antioxydants naturels suscite de plus en plus d'intérêt pour la prévention et le traitement du cancer, des maladies inflammatoires, cardiovasculaires et neurodégénératives. Ils sont également utilisés comme additifs pour les industries agroalimentaire, pharmaceutique et cosmétique "Ils ont tous en commun la présence d'un ou plusieurs cycles benzéniques portant une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyles". La désignation "polyphénols" est consacrée par l'usage et, alors qu'elle ne devrait concerner que les molécules portant plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle phénolique, elle est habituellement utilisée pour l'ensemble de ces composés. Les polyphénols naturels regroupent donc un vaste ensemble de substances chimiques comprenant au moins un noyau aromatique, portant un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, en plus d’autres constituants. Il y a quatre principales familles de composés phénoliques : les acides phénoliques (catéchol, acide gallique, acide protocatéchique), les flavones, l'acide chlorogénique et les quinones. Ils peuvent aller de molécules simples, comme les acides phénoliques, à des composés hautement polymérisés, de plus de trente mille daltons, comme les tanins (acide tannique). Les polyphénols sont communément subdivisés en phénols simples, acides phénoliques et coumarines, en naphtoquinones, en stilbénoïdes (deux cycles en C6 liés par deux atomes de carbone), en flavonoïdes, isoflavonoïdes et anthocyanes, et en formes polymérisées : lignanes, lignines, tanins condensés. Ces squelettes carbonés de base sont issus du métabolisme secondaire des plantes, élaborés par la voie du shikimate. Les polyphénols sont présents dans diverses substances naturelles : sous forme d'anthocyanine dans les fruits rouges, le vin rouge (en relation avec les tanins, phénomène du "paradoxe français"), sous forme de proanthocyanidines dans le chocolat et le vin, d'acides caféoylquinique et féruloylquinique dans le café, de flavonoïdes dans les agrumes, et sous forme de catéchines comme le gallate d'épigallocatéchine dans le thé vert, de quercétine dans les pommes, les oignons, le vin rouge, etc. D'après une étude réalisée avec des volontaires via Internet, les sources alimentaires de polyphénols sont principalement le café (36,9 %), le thé — vert ou noir — (33,6 %), le chocolat pour son cacao (10,4 %), le vin rouge (7,2 %) et les fruits (6,7 %)18. Parmi les fruits, les polyphénols, très présents dans toutes les pommes, sont encore plus concentrés dans les pommes à cidre (riches en tanin), qui peuvent en contenir jusqu'à quatre fois plus : c'est une biodiversité qui se manifeste en richesse aussi bien qualitativement que quantitativement en polyphénols. (Wikipedia) Scutaline Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Senescence is a cellular response characterised by morphological changes, a stable growth arrest (in order to prevent tumoral proliferation) and a change in the cell’s secretome. Indeed, senescent cells, called Zombie cells, produce a large amount of senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) which is responsible for a pro-inflammatory response, for collagen degradation, for free radical production, and for the transmission of the senescent state.1 As a result, senescent cells tend to accumulate with age and 20 to 60% of the skin cells are actually senescent. The senescence process may be induced by several causes. Ageing is the most common phenomenon (after a certain number of division, a cell may go into senescence), but another frequent cause is stress, especially oxidative stress that induces inflammation. The combination of ageing and moderated inflammation caused by stress is called inflamm’aging, also known as “secret killer”. This progressive and insidious phenomenon has visible effects in the long term and prevents the skin from ageing well. When a cell is exposed to stress, there are a few possible outcomes. It can be repaired, it can undergo apoptosis (the programme cell death) if it is too severely damaged, or it can undergo senescence. Apoptosis will induce a high energy expenditure since the cell will have to be replaced and requires the division of a healthy cell. The same is true for necrosis, which consumes less energy but also requires the remaining healthy cells to replace the eliminated cell. These two processes cause a significant energy impact for the body, and therefore for the skin. Senescent cells still maintain their production activities although in a degraded form. Senescence thus seems to be an acceptable compromise at a lower energy cost. However, senescence is a source of extensive and chronic inflammation as described before, the inflamm’aging. Scutaline (INCI name : Scutellaria baicalensisroot extract) is an active ingredient made from the dried roots of the Scutellaria baicalensis, a plant traditionally used in Chinese medicine and naturally rich in two polyphenols: Baicalein and Wogonin that have been described to reduce SASP .3 Baicalein is an activator of the Nrf2 pathway. It thus provides strong antioxidative benefits by stimulating the production of anti-oxidants such as NADP(H): Quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO1) and glutathione.4 Baicalein is also a COX-2 inhibitor.5 It therefore inhibits prostaglandin (PGE2) synthesis and participates in reducing inflammatory symptoms like redness and pain. Wogonin is a NFkB inhibitor that provides potent anti-inflammatory benefits.6 It is also responsible for degrading HIF-1a (hypoxia inducible factor-1a) that is key for regulating the angiogenesis process that may limit inflammation and redness.7 Using a patented extraction method, the concentration of these two molecules was maximised for stronger benefits to the skin. We focused on a strategy consisting of slowing the entry of cells into senescence during ageing and also decreasing the ability of senescent cells to affect nearby healthy cells and to cause a chronic lowgrade inflammation leading to skin premature ageing. In this paper, we will present how Scutaline (referred to as ‘Scutellaria baicalensis root extract’) is able to meet our strategy to help the skin to age well. Note de contenu : - Preventing stress-induced senescence - Decreasing the ability of senescent cells to promote senescence and to cause inflamm'aging - Benefits for the skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V1MeuLBm2ZcUdoj9bhdSUeDewqnXSBvo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34274 [article]

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Connecting you to magical marine active ingredients in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 26-29 Titre : Connecting you to magical marine active ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Biomolécules actives Biotechnologie marine Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Seppic, along with its dedicated brand for cosmetic active ingredients WeSource™, connects formulators to the magical world of marine actives. Biotechmarine is a subsidiary of Seppic and is one of the technology pillars dedicated to marine active ingredients, within WeSource. The Bréhat archipelago, or ‘underwater Amazon', is a unique environment in Brittany (France): a pure and preserved site, providing us with inspiration. We create substantiated actives by fully respecting the natural biodiversity and developing biotechnologies in harmony with the marine ecosystem, exploring new depths and still discovering new possibilities. WeSource by Seppic works to : act in a responsible way ; work with local harvesters or growers of plants or seaweeds ; be committed in the respect of biodiversity ; guarantee traceability. WeSource by Seppic offers more than 100 natural active ingredients. Half of these are marine active ingredients. We are convinced that a marine active ingredients supplier should be committed in four Ts. Note de contenu : - Innovation by ensuring traceability - Innovation based on bio-inspiration - Innovation based on little-known species - Innovation by constraints - Innovation by healthy-ageing skin benefits - Innovation by three prospective lines of development - Fig. 1 : As 70% of our marine ingredient offer is sourced in Brittany (France) as shown in this image, our commitments comply with local regulation of harvesting - Fig. 2 : WeSource confirmed benefits with skin cells DNA protection exposed to UV and clinical results for immediate soothing benefits after UV exposure - Fig. 3 : Our innovation team investigated Asparagopsis armata which is known to contain mycosporine-like amino acids - Fig. 4 : In association with other microorganisms, Acrochaetium moniliforme helps to protect its host against external aggressions - Fig. 5 : Number of products from BiotechMarine - Fig. 6 : Global distribution of active patents and launches with algae ingredients - Fig. 7 : Skin Thinking survey En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rPO6OzZoiPfT8G0TvibwwyaxR765v-7M/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34275 [article]

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Benefits of a novel collagen in skin care applications / Zhao Jianfeng in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 31-35 Titre : Benefits of a novel collagen in skin care applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Zhao Jianfeng, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 31-35 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Analyse des données Collagène Colorimétrie Cornéométrie Formulation (Génie chimique) Humidité -- Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Biollagen suite of products designed for use in skin care and medical procedures is derived from synthetic Pichia yeast. The patented process produces a non-allergic high-performance vegan-accredited collagen, with 200 times the performance levels of collagen extracted from bovine gristle. A study to determine the efficacy of Biollagen in skin care applications was conducted with a half-face assessment of two formulations, one containing a novel collagen (INCI name: sh-polypeptide-123, Trade Name: Biollagen) from JLand Biotech Ltd and a placebo formulation, in a panel of female volunteers with signs of premature facial ageing. Thirty-six female volunteers age range 35 to 65 years were screened for the study, with 32 volunteers entering the study. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods - Results : Discussion - Assessment : Facial photography - Canfield visia - Test site for instrumental assessments - Skin colour measurement - Skin moisture measurements - Data analysis : Canfield visia image analysis - Photography - Canfield visia images - Skin colour measurement - Corneometer data- Canfield visia image analysis parameters - Chromameter data - Corneometer data - Fig. 1 : Change in parameter pores between baseline and week 10 - Fig. 2 : Change in parameter UV spots between baseline and week 10 - Fig. 3 : Active and placebo - Fig. 4 : Change in parameter skin lightness between baseline and week 10 - Table 2 : Pores - Table 3 : UV spots - Table 4 : Texture - Table 5 : Blinded photographic comparison - Table 6 : Chromameter data - lightness - Table 7 : Green/red - Table 8 : Blue/yellow En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aaL7kbqx9vXO2zIYS_S3vRkH63L0TmUi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34276 [article]

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First cannabis sativa stem cells : nourishing microbiota / Oscar Expósito in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 37-40 Titre : First cannabis sativa stem cells : nourishing microbiota Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; Alejandro Guirado, Auteur ; Daniel Robustillo, Auteur ; Ana Gallego, Auteur ; Maria Mas, Auteur ; Pau Riera, Auteur ; Daniel Luna, Auteur ; Sara Laplana, Auteur ; Tarik Ruiz, Auteur ; Sandra Ruiz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cannabis et constituants Caractérisation Cellules souches Clarté de la peau Etudes cliniques Ingrédients cosmétiques Microbiote Neurones sensitifs Ocytocine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin microbiota and the brain are connected through an existing natural pathway where the microbiota is the first step. The new active Kannabia SensePLF (INCI name: Cannabis Sativa Callus Lysate), is the first generation of Cannabis sativaplant stem cells and introduces the concept of in situpostbiotic. Through its mechanism of action, the active modulates the skin commensal microbiota to produce a positive in situ postbiotic cocktail that ignites the synthesis of happiness related neurochemicals from the skin that connects with the brain, turning into a wellbeing response and a healthier and stronger skin. Several in vitroand in vivotrials have been carried out to demonstrate the skin well-ageing effect, positive brain activation and modulation of mood state thanks to the active ingredient. Note de contenu : - The microbiota-skin brain axis - The concept of in situ postbiotic - The first cannabis sativa stem cells - In vitro efficacy - In vivo efficacy : In vitro 1 : Characterisation of the bacterial in situ postbiotic - In vitro 2 : Analysis of the microbiota-skin-brain axis networks - Oxytocin levels in keratinocytes (NHEK - step 4) - Oxytocin levels in sensory neurons - In vivo efficacy : In vivo 1 : Evaluation of skin well-ageing effect - Mood wrinkles (marionette & frown lines) - Skin hydration - Skin radiance - In vivo 2 : Evaluation of the emotional modulation - Analysis of the brain activation by functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging (fMRI) - Modulation of mood state - Fig. 1 : Microbiota-skin-brain axis - Fig. 2 : Analysis of the microbiota-skin-brain axis networks - Fig. 3 : Oxytocin levels in NHE - Fig. 4 : Oxytocin levels in sensory neurons - Fig. 5 : Clinical evaluation of wrinkles - Fig. 6 : 3D brain model and correlation coefficient matrices - Fig. 7 : Clinical evaluation of the brain activation by fMRI En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vTklSb6UDWGSLMWTqov3tT9R5ALJfD7S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34277 [article]

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New melanobreaker strategy for skin whitening / Eve Bosseboeuf in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 43-46 Titre : New melanobreaker strategy for skin whitening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eve Bosseboeuf, Auteur ; Gabrielle Moro, Auteur ; Pierre-Yves Morvan, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 43-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Chromophycophytes Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation de la peau Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Science and new technology have made molecular data accessible and it is thanks to this informational context that we are able to identify the main players involved in the skin pigmentation process. Genes that use signalling pathways are this study's ideal targets for assessing the efficacy of the main active agents to be developed. In the laboratory, a new brown algae extract has been revealed to us with potential implications for regulating the expression of genes participating in melanogenesis. The results have indeed come to show that the extract is able to inhibit the expression of those genes responsible for melanin synthesis activation, as well as to activate the genes responsible for their degradation. In addition to possessing uncommon properties by virtue of the alga’s iridescence, this extract, called CyWhite, helps to naturally rebalance skin pigmentation. Note de contenu : - Melanogenesis : how does skin get its colour ? - Genes involved in skin pigmentation regulation : ideal targets - In vivo efficacy : overall assessment of homogeneity and lightening effect - Fig. 1 : The rainbow algae in its natural environment and its hand harvesting - Fig. 2 : Regulatory genes involved in pigment synthesis pathways in the keratinocytes and melanocytes - Fig. 3 : Expression of POMC and CSTE in reconstituted epidermis models treated or not with CyWhite - Fig. 4 : Expression of AGRP, DKKA and CTSL2 in reconstituted epidermis model treated or not with CyWhite - Fig. 5 : Effect of CyWhite on ITA° of pigmentation spots of the face after 8 weeks of application compared to the placebo - Fig. 6 : Effect of CyWhite on the colour difference ΔE between a pigmentation spot and the "normal" skin of the face - Fig. 7 : Extract from responses by volunteers to the self-assessment questionnaire En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X9VZNUNaCJanOJPJelsJq4zB54oRWEri/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34278 [article]

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Catering to the skin of generation Z / Harald van der Hoeven in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 48-51 Titre : Catering to the skin of generation Z Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Harald van der Hoeven, Auteur ; Heiko Prade, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 48-51 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Antipelliculaires Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pellicules (dermatologie) Prurits Séborrhée Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Catering to the skin of Generation Z is complex, but possible when done right. CutiBiome CLR (MPM Complex) underwent multiple efficacy studies and was clearly shown to have potent effects on the most important dermatological features of sebum-related skin problems. It importantly reduces the likelihood of the formation of acne lesions and it was shown to have potent effects on the reduction of the oiliness of both skin in the face and the scalp. These effects were not just determined scientifically, they were also perceived by the volunteers in the studies. Similarly, MPM Complex was able to reduce the number of acne lesions and dandruff, both perceivably and proven by an expert grader. MPM Complex is a Cosmos approved active ingredient, meaning it is natural. Added to that, it is safe and leaves skin and scalp with a pleasant and comfortable feel. It solves problems which are common to Generation Z consumers. 80% of the volunteers in the dandruff study reported that they were inclined to buy the product with MPM Complex which they had been using in the past 4 weeks. This percentage was significantly lower for those volunteers who had been using the same formulation, but containing a benchmark ingredient and not MPM Complex. 80% reported a reduction of itching, a type of skin discomfort common to the skin and scalp of the generation Z consumer. MPM Complex caters to the skin of Gen Z’ers and shows perceivable and satisfactory results. It further ‘ticks all boxes’ which are important to them. It is our belief that MPM Complex leads to a satisfied Generation Z consumer, who will be loyal to the product and brand it is contained in. Note de contenu : - Anticipating changes in skin is a complex undertaking - Efficacy studies - in vivo assays - Dandruff - Fig. 1 : Increased sebum production is beneficial for virulent phylotypes of C. acnes - Fig. 2 : Virulent C. acnes phylotypes form a biofilm which clogs pores - Fig. 3 : Initiation of a vicious circle leading to acnes lesions - Fig. 4 : The development of acnes lesions - Fig. 5 : Effect on sebum production as determined with sebumeter - Fig. 6 : Effect on skin oiliness in the perception of the volunteers - Fig. 7 : Effect on number of papules, comedones and pustules - Fig. 8 : Effect on typical features associated with acne as perceived by the volunteers. - Fig. 9 : Assessment of reduction of dandruff on 3 volunteers with micro-camera (1.5% MPM Complex) - Fig. 10 : Results obtained with assessment of reduction of dandruff with micro-camera - Fig. 11 : Perceived reduction of scalp itchiness - Fig. 12 : Percentage of volunteers who would buy the tested product En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bW1lQ_7Qjb66685tWUqNCkzsPRV0YUy1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34279 [article]

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Taking a regenerative approach to hair growth / Masakazu Hashimoto in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 55-58 Titre : Taking a regenerative approach to hair growth Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Masakazu Hashimoto, Auteur ; Ryo Nishiyama, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur ; Ichimaru Pharcos, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 55-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Follicule pileux Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits capillaires Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair loss is an issue that relates to both men and women of all ages. Recent studies for hair growth are being conducted on dermal papilla and there have been several pathways that have been identified such as the Wnt signalling pathway. RSPO1 is one of the recent novel proteins required for organ development, and is secreted from dermal papilla cells in the hair follicle. It has two functions - a promoter role and a protector role in the hair cycle. Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract, a novel hair growth ingredient increases RSPO1 secretion from the derma papilla, and binds to the outer root sheath to promote hair follicle growth, and also neutralises the hair loss factor Dickkopf-related protein 1 (DKK1) to protect hair growth. The result of in vitro, ex vivo, and human clinical trial confirmed the efficacy of the special processed Nasturtium officinaleLeaf/Stem Extract (commercially known as ‘Burgeon-Up’) to effectively promote hair growth through RSPO1 enhancement. Note de contenu : - Focusing on RSPO1 - Enhancing RSPO1 - Suppression of DKK1 secretion - Hair follicle elongation ex vivo - Human clinical trial - Fig. 1 : RSPOA action site in human hair - Fig. 2 : RSPO1 enhancing Wnt activity - Fig. 3 : Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract promoting RSPO1 secretion - Fig. 4 : Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract promoting DKK1 secretion - Fig. 5 : Elongation of human hair follicle (ex vivo) by Nasturtium officinale Leaf/Stem Extract - Fig. 6 : Hair parameters of the clinical study volunteers - Fig. 7 : Phototrichogram analysis of an active group volunteer at 0 month and 3 months - Fig. 8 : Visual change of hair volume from a 51 year old volunteer from 0 month, 3 months and 6 months En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TLk_VI8x2MFgIgib_wR9NXqI_0SPOQBx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34280 [article]

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Ingredient focus : waxes and butters / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 60-61 Titre : Ingredient focus : waxes and butters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 60-61 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Waxes and butters are key ingredients for formulators as they have the ability to deliver body and structure to formulations. Waxes can also improve texture, increase viscosity, deliver shine and improve the stability of formulations, while butters provide richness and the sense of nourishment necessaryfor many skin care products. Following is a range of wax and butter ingredients from some of the world's leading ingredient suppliers, many of which will be ideal options for natural and vegan compliant formulations. Note de contenu : - Butters - Waxes - Fig. 1 : Candelilla wax - Fig. 2 : Jojoba oil and seeds En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FlReSlDjs9GFUjgJUA9dyB5q8DbWMbI8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34283 [article]

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The evolution of cosmetic butters : authenticity in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) Titre : The evolution of cosmetic butters : authenticity Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is important in the first instance to understand that the focus of this article is on what we classify as ‘true’, ‘authentic’ or ‘unadulterated’ butters in the personal care market. Such a butter may simply be defined as “the fat obtained from the fruit, nut or seed from a specific botanical source”. Further to this, it is recognised that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semisolid state at a temperature range of 20°C – 30°C. While butters are significant to the food industry, cocoa and shea being two key raw materials for confectionary, we can equally identify with both as having major importance within the personal care market. That said, butter demand continues to grow but more-so outside of these two historic core materials. What were historically recognised as the base ingredient, or an important component, in many personal care products on which a formulation was focused, butters in the personal care evolution have taken an exotic route through authenticity. Listing Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the product portfolio, when presented to formulators, now extends to such product names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. Multi-functional as they are, the everdeveloping world and increasingly consumer-led demand means formulators are keen to explore the growing number of commercially available butters now present in the market for a variety of skin, lip and hair care applications. Note de contenu : - Authenticity - Social responsibility - Sustainability - Quality and certification - Composition, properties and applications - Exotic authentic butters : Cupaçu butter - Murumuru butter - Ucuuba butter - Table 1 : Cupuaçu butter - Table 2 : Murumuru butter - Table 3 : Ucuuba butter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vyVJym2RqblGiT5-PhQTFj78pYBvObqH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34284 [article]

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Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims / Anne Charpentier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 67-69 Titre : Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Exposome L'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à-dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome. Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is important in the first instance to understand that the focus of this article is on what we classify as 'true', 'authentic' or 'unadulterated' butters in the personal care market. Such a butter may simply be defined as "the fat obtained from the fruit, nut or seed from a specific botanical source". Further to this, it is recognised that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semisolid state at a temperature range of 20°C - 30°C. While butters are significant to the food industry, cocoa and shea being two key raw materials for confectionary, we can equally identify with both as having major importance within the personal care market. That said, butter demand continues to grow but more-so outside of these two historic core materials. What were historically recognised as the base ingredient, or an important component, in many personal care products on which a formulation was focused, butters in the personal care evolution have taken an exotic route through authenticity. Listing Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the product portfolio, when presented to formulators, now extends to such product names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. Multi-functional as they are, the everdeveloping world and increasingly consumer-led demand means formulators are keen to explore the growing number of commercially available butters now present in the market for a variety of skin, lip and hair care applications. Note de contenu : - The exposome process beyond the ageing mechanisms - The various ways to objectivate this claim - From trends to high-tech - The bright future of skin science - Table 1 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation terms - Table 2 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation. Clinical assessment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14agJpXJE4bAKDXxiFWX1xtNOYzJgJ-ZC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34285 [article]

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