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Mediterranean botanicals blend boosts skin benefits / James V. Gruber in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 31-34 Titre : Mediterranean botanicals blend boosts skin benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur ; Jed Riemer, Auteur ; Venera Stojkoska, Auteur ; Eva-Maria Harthaus, Auteur ; Anna M. Giec-Bojarska, Auteur ; Mariagrazia Barbagallo, Auteur ; Andrea Bonina, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 31-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It can be easy to think that ideas for new cosmetic and therapeutic ingredients appear to pop out of the air in rapid succesion. Every day seems to bring something new, something timely, something never seen before. This could not be farther from the truth. What this paper demonstrates is that development of new cosmetic ingredients can take years of research looking at various aspects of an ingredient's benefits. Then, in the hands of skilled scientists and artisans, these individual ingredients can be further blended and optimised to give even more superior performance to the particular extracts from which they are derived. Jeen is pleased to be able to work closely with our technical partners at BotanicalsPlus and with the very strong scientists at BioNap who have created a unique idea in the product called Skin Moon. Hopefully, readers will better appreciate that the science of skin care is exactly that, a science. It takes knowledge, time, and commitment to create ingredients that people come back to time and again for one simple reason - because they work. Note de contenu : - The science behind Citrus sinensis (Red Orange) extract - The science supporting capparis spinosa fruit extract - Orzya sativa (rice) extract and olea europaea (olive) leaf extract - Development and testing of the new complex - Formulating with the new complex En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UdJO8Q6vtwLzPCxt8NmEobj9NJqhRPpw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31131 [article]

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Hair integrity protected during chemical processes / Ronald V. Lerum in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - P. 43-47 Titre : Hair integrity protected during chemical processes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ronald V. Lerum, Auteur ; Anna Croom, Auteur ; Juan Carlos Salgado Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : P. 43-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Preservation of the integrity of hair fibres requires an understanding of the structural and chemical composition of hair and the chemistry involved to counteract the damaging effects of the bleaching and colour treatment processes. The hair structure is composed of the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cuticle is the outer protective layer of the hair fibre, which provide the sensory and shine caracteristics of hair. The cuticles overlap giving the appearance similar to roof shingles, thereby protecting the hair from chemical, physical and environmental tratments. The cortex is the major component of the hair and is responsible for the mechanical strength and is responsible for the pigment colour of hair. The innermost layer is the medulla, which may be present or absent throughout the hair fibre. The structural integrity of hair is due to hair's specific chemical composition. The hair is primarily composed of proteins, lipids and water. Human hair is composed of 65-95% protein, which influence hair textures such as curly, wavy, kinky or straight. The main component of human hair is keratin proteins, which are complex natural compounds that contribute to its physicochemicals properties. Human hair keratin is unique to other types of keratin because of its higher content of cystein residues relative to skin keratin (7.6% and 2.9% respectively. A compositional increase of cysteine residues in hair leads to a higher amount of inter- and intra- molecular disulfide linkages, translating to a durable structure due to covalent bonds. Hair is also comprised of 1-9% lipids, which contribute to enhanced conditioning properties, such as flexibility, surface gloss and lubricity of hair. Lipids in the internal part of the hair provide structural reinforcement and rigidity. Water is another major component that can be found up to 32% by weight of hair. Water supports the formation of a network of hydrogen bonds with proteins, thereby influencing the tensile strength, swelling and shape of hair, as well as, the formation of salt-bridges. Note de contenu : - Hair bleaching (in vitro test) - Enhanced colour saturation during colour tratment - Anti-breakage after grooming - Improved tensile strength of hair with functionalised dimethicone during the bleaching process - Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) displays hair fibre surface integrity - Confirmation of the particle size of the microemulsion and penetration ability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BIQvIDEqjTu8p3LvnGeB7avv3q42qE79/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31132 [article]

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Protect and repair hair from radiation and heat damage / Alain Thibodeau in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 51-55 Titre : Protect and repair hair from radiation and heat damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alain Thibodeau, Auteur ; Valeria Quaranta, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 51-55 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Anatomie Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The human hair fibre is comprised of the external cuticle covering the cortex and the medulla that is confined to the centre of the fibre. To some extent, the hair has a structure that resembles that of the epidermis. The outermost cuticle layer is composed of differentiated keratinocytes filled with a type of cross-linked keratin. Cystine, a dimer of the amino acid cysteine, is the main building block of the cuticle keratin that provides a first line of protection against stresses. Five to ten layers of cuticles cells are overlapped and held together by a lipid matrix known as the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC). The CMC is composed of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. This lipid content is analogous to that of the stratum corneum barrier. The CMC composition however differentiates from that of the skin by the presence of 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). 18-MEA, a C21 branched fatty acid, may represent up to 40% of the fatty acid mixture found in the CMC. Moreover, 18-MEA also forms the F-layer that covers the outermost layer of the hair shaft also referred to as the epicuticle.The F-layer and its unique fatty acid composition imparts a hydrophobic property to the hair and helps protecting from external damage. It also contributes to hair shine. Cuticle multilayers surround the cortex that encloses melanin pigments giving the hair its colour. The cortex is made of elongated cortical cells aligned along the longitudinal axis of the hair shaft. The cortex also supports the mechanical properties and the tensile strenght of the hair. Note de contenu : - Hair weathering and external damage En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vZeR1BKK3Ee4I3BhcC1g4Wkq9NDHiqkK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31134 [article]

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Naturally-derived polymer for heat styling of hair / Neil Kilcullen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 57-59 Titre : Naturally-derived polymer for heat styling of hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Neil Kilcullen, Auteur ; J. Bacon, Auteur ; A. Larribau ; M. Seurin Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 57-59 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Coiffure (cheveux) Polyitaconate Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : RevCare HP is a sustainable, naturally derived material that is a usefull ingredient for application in personal care products. The results presented in this article demonstrate that this material can perform at least as well as synthetic equivalents in maintainingstyles obtaines through thermal styling of hair and can be used to help prevent damage that may occur as a result of repeat applications of the styking process over extended periods of time. Furthermore, RevCare HP rinses from hair easily in between styling applications and therefore does not build up on hair which could otherwise lead to increased etanglement, weighing down of the hair or obstruction of other hair care applications. Currently, polyitaconates such as RevCare NE 100S are the only naturally-derived polymers that are able to provide the benefits described in this article, giving formulators an effective alternative to silicones and petrochemical based ingredients. Note de contenu : - Style retention test - Heat damage study - Rinse-off test - Fig. 1 : Digital images of styled tresses after exposure to high humidity - Fig. 2 : Individual hair fibre strength (10 treatment cycles) - Fig. 3 : SEM individual fibre images (20 treatments cycles) - Fig. 4 : Comb resistance (10 treatment cycles) - Fig. 5 : Comb resistance (10 heat treatment cycles) - Fig. 6 : SEM individual fibre images (20 heat treatment cycles) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Tp_U-q9Tdx4BhFfOw9CO6XDUWzjZPzlE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31142 [article]

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The seven types of natural hair styling products / Lorraine Dallmeier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 61-63 Titre : The seven types of natural hair styling products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorraine Dallmeier, Auteur ; Timea Racz, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 61-63 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Produits capillaires Produits coiffants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Styling products are added to your hair to temporarily change its shape, texture or feel or to hold a hairstyle in place. They are meant to reshape the hair as you want it, and simultaneously improve your hair's volume, increase its shine, soften it, or stiffen it. Styling products can be applied to either wet or dry hair after cleaning and/or conditioning. Depending on where you are in the world, hairstyles can differentiate people based on their age, marital status, gender or even social class. Societies go through different hair trends over time and styling products have always played an important role in shaping popular trends and choices. According to Mintel, styling products represent 10%-15% of global annual hair care products launches. In line with trends seen in the shampoo and conditioner markets, consumers are also looking for organic alternatives to synthetic styling products. We are currently seeing an enormous opportunity to create and sell organic or natural styling products. It is very rare to find truly effective organic or natural hair styling formulations for sale in the global hair care market. It is even rarer to find natural styling formulations that target specific hair types. But what are natural hair styling products and how do we formulate them? In this article, we want to introduce you to the seven different types of natural styling formulations and discuss their texture and consistency in more detail. Note de contenu : - DUAL FUNCTIONALITY FOR NATURAL STYLING FORMULATIONS - THE SEVEN TYPES OF NATURAL HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS: Texturising mist - Styling mousse - Hair gel - Smoothing serum - Sculpting clay - Styling putty or wax - Hair tonic -Consumer demands for natural hair styling En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mJFifqBs3X1Ts3JebUd3lXAhn5sV4l0x/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31143 [article]

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Bacterial skin microbiota/microbiome investigation / Fabrice Perin in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 65-68 Titre : Bacterial skin microbiota/microbiome investigation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fabrice Perin, Auteur ; Kunyanatt Chalothorn, Auteur ; Preeyanuch Tachalerdmanee, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Flore cutanée Microbiologie Microbiome cutané Microbiote Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have almost reached the point where we can characterise nearly exhaustively the bacteria inhabiting the skin and microbiome research has already improved our understanding the pathogenesis of some disease. However many questions still remain. Firstly, we are not assured to really understand of what defines a healthy microbiota. Scientists have started to find associations of some skin diseases or particular skin conditions with particular microbial species but the causality relationship is often not demonstrated yet. Secondly, little is known about the persistance of bacterial populations, the causes and consequences of their time fluctuations. We know virtually nothing about most metabolites that are produced by skin bacteria in vivo, even though these are the key molecules responsible for the cross-talks between microbes and their human host. This point is of utmost importance since we have to decipher the mechanistic bases (particulary the chemical signals) for interactions between members of microbial communities and their hosts or the mechanisms that underlie associations between specific skin area and their respective microbiota. Next generation high-throughput sequencing and development of novel bioinformatics approaches will certainly help to fill these gaps in our knowledge of microbiome physiological effects. Then, we will have a chance to be able to modulate particular bacteria within the skin microbiota community, to use probiotics to modify the gut microbiome to achieve 'beauty from within' objectives, to manipulate host-microbial homeostasis without risking to create unforessen adverse outcome. Rational microbiome-based interventions using local application of selected bacteria or topical treatments modulating bacterial activity could thus become an essential tool in the field of personalised cosmetic and medical treatments. For instance, the feasibility of microbiome-based skin diagnosis has already been proven for psoriasis patients. Note de contenu : - Microbiota of healthy and diseased skin - Designing skin microbiome studies - Fig. 1 : Relative proportions of the bacteria versus human cells and the microbiome versus genes. Bacteria hosted by the body outnumber human cells by a factor of 10 and that the microbiome has 150 times more genes than the human body does - Fig. 2 : Conducting a microbiome study step by step : 1) samping of skin microbial community ; 2) extraction of DNA ; 3) amplification and sequencing using the 16S-based approach or whole genome shotgun (WGS) metagenomic sequencing ; 4) taxonomic classification, community composition and functions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lpFxiBUxw39cQAb5eKy2lyiH9XWjSWMH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31144 [article]

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Biobased testing required to screen 'natural' ingredients / Haley Gershon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 70-71 Titre : Biobased testing required to screen 'natural' ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Haley Gershon, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 70-71 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels Tests biologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic products often comprise petrochemical ingredients and non-biodegradable plastics such as microbeads. When cosmetics containing microbeads are used, the plastic gets rinsed off and can enter waterways. As consumers become more aware both of where their cosmetic products come from and where they end up, they tend to pay greater attention to product labels. As a result, consumer demand is flourishing for cosmetic products that are free from synthetic ingredients. The use of certain synthetic ingredients such as microbeads has become a global concern, leading several countries to limit or ban their inclusion in personal care products. These consumer trends and regulatory initiatives push manufacturers to shift to naturally sourced ingredients instead, however, the authenticity of 'natural' claims is often questioned. Biobased testing is a viable analytical tool for identifying presence of petrochemical derived ingredients such as microbeads and other additives which helps to substantiate natural claims and identify fraud. Note de contenu : - Background: banning the microbead - Plant-based alternatives - Are 'natural' labelled cosmetics truly natural - Biobased testing to verify 'natural' claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BmQiJ4qayl9jWYCyV2XvtA2G5pwbAvwe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31145 [article]

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Nails : more than just skin extensions / Diana Khazaka in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 73-75 Titre : Nails : more than just skin extensions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Diana Khazaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couleur Epaisseur -- Mesure Ongles -- Analyse Ongles -- Propriétés mécaniques Ongles -- Soins et hygiènes Perte insensible en eau Vieillissement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : So, altogether a number of claims for the nails can be objectively measured. The effect of nail hardeners, nail polish and the properties of various types of artificial nails can be easily demonstrated with the new Nail StrainStress Meter. Other claims could be restructuringand re-densifying of the nails by certain food supplements. Projective products could be evaluated by measuring the evaporation rate of the water. Also, the TOWL measurement could be used to show that nail polish remover, the glue from an artificial nail or other aesthetic nail treatments do not damagethe nail. Fields of application for the assessment of nail gloss and colour are obvious, and not only restricted to the evaluation of applied nail polish. Such measurement can also be used to show the effects of withening products and mechanical polish. Even in medical conditions like nail fungus, the measurement of nail thickness could give an indication of the effect of treatment with anti-fungal medication. As also other skin diseases can extend to the nails, the oblective measurement of the nail condition can be used to offer additionalinformation about the overall improvement by medical treatment. And why not try to test whether my anti-ageing hand cream does not also improve the condition of my fingernails? There are no limits to new claims created around nail care that can be proven with these new methods. Note de contenu : - Structural strengh/firmness - Flexibility and elasticity - Thickness - Other nail parameters - Fig. 1 : Market for nail care products is constantly growing - Fig. 2 : New, patented nail strainstress meter NM 100 - Fig. 3 : Punctual compression to determine structural strength of the nail - Fig. 4 : Different applicator tips, to assess a variety of mechanical nail parameters - Fig. 5 : A special soft rubber tip makes colour measurements on the nail easily possible - Fig. 6 : Special, small TEWL measurement probe for the use on nail or scalp - Fig. 7 : Showing the nail ageing in parameters En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/115paPsd6NNL_QWX8AldLONAj949nagEc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31171 [article]

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Dynamic properties of aminoacid based surfactants / Swetlana Scherbakow in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 77-82 Titre : Dynamic properties of aminoacid based surfactants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Swetlana Scherbakow, Auteur ; Martin Husmann, Auteur ; Yana Bykov Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 77-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits nettoyants Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Amino acid based surfactants provide a lot of positive characteristics, which are of great advantage for formulations of sulphate-free cleansing products. They show pronounced foaming behaviour with particulary high moisture content foam. This mahes the products very attractive for rinse-off applications. In formulations, more aggressive surfactants such as SLS or SLES can be combined with Perlastan surfactants. The irritation potential of the main surfactants is greatly reduced and the resulting formulation benefits from much milder properties. In addition, buffer capacity of glutamate and sarcosinate surfactants in the range between pH 5.0 and pH 6.5 keeps the healthy condition of the skin intact. Furthermore, cleansing power of amino acid-based surfactants can be optimised through the combination with oter surfactants which offer a lower CMC. Due to the excellent aerobic and anaerobic biodegradability Perlastan surfactants are classified as environmentally friendly. Sodium acyl glutamates from products such as Perlastan SC 25 NKW, Perlastan SC 25 NKPF, Perlastan SCG 50 ZPF and Perlastan SL meet different criteria of a wide range of certification processes and can be easily applied in natural cosmetics formulations. Note de contenu : - Cleansing performance - Dynamic processes - Foaming behaviour - Optical investigation of foam ability and foam stability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lHUW-0AriZ5gRdJ80hTDD5rpxy7G8XFd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31172 [article]

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Ingredients focus : eye area care / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 86-87 Titre : Ingredients focus : eye area care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 86-87 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antiâge:Antirides Anticernes Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We have seen in recent years some exciting new ingredients that aim to improve the appearance of the eye area. This delicate area of the body can transform a person's look, as it is in such a prominent position. Added to this, the colouration changes around the eyes can be signifiant, leading to an entirely altered visual aspect. New ingredients are finding ways to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, eye bags and dark circles, to restore a more youthful and homogenous look. Following is a selection of eye area care ingredients from leading suppliers. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_I7nSqg8DJj3GbDf1T5O4JL3cBIuLnID/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31180 [article]

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The secret of beautiful eyes investigated / Madina Sautova in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 89-91 Titre : The secret of beautiful eyes investigated Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Madina Sautova, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 89-91 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Etude in vivo Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The new patented foour-in-one blend, Syn-Eye, combines four bioactive ingredients to a multifunctional eye care formulation. It offers a science-based approach to fight against eye region skin ageing - in particular the appearance of lines and wrinkles and dark circles. The first significant effects were observed after 7 days'treatment. The developed Syn-Eye blend showed better study results compared to the competitive blenchmark. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : A) Dose dependent collagen stimulation by Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH, B) The expression of cytokines and MMPs after chemically induced (PMA) stress (24h) in normal human keratinocytes. Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH protects cells from collage network degradation - Fig. 2 : A) Dunaliella salina extract dose-dependently protects mitochondria against oxidative stress caused by free radicals, B) Dunaliella salina extract significantly and dose-dependently increases the ATP content up to 140%.2 - Fig. 3 : Significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles compared to placebo - Fig. 4 : A) Syn-Eye shows a significant anti-wrinkle efficacy in 7 days. The Syn-Eye results are getting better after 28 treatment days. B) Syn-Eys shows significant effect on skin smoothing in only 7 days. The Syn-Eye results are improving further after 28 treatment days - Fig. 5 : Syn-Eye shows a visibly brighter skin colour in dark circle area after only 14 days En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WsCK4gGiGen6CNgseXChvWv3fHzrrnm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31181 [article]

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Periorbital wrinkles reduced by phytoglycogen / Carley Miki in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 93-94 Titre : Periorbital wrinkles reduced by phytoglycogen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carley Miki, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 93-94 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Glycogène Le glycogène est un glucide complexe polymère du glucose. Il consiste en une chaîne de glucose lié en α (1-4) et est branché en α (1-6) tous les 8 ou 12 résidus. Il est utilisé par les animaux (et les champignons) pour stocker de l'énergie chimique et permet de libérer rapidement du glucose (principalement dans le foie et dans les cellules musculaires) au même titre que l'amidon chez les végétaux. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Phytoglycogen is a natural, plant-based form of glycogen, providing energy to cells that can be utilised to increase proliferation and production of important extracellular components. To evaluate the benefits of topically applied phytoglycogen, a clinical study was performed. Volonteers applied a cream containing either 0.1%, 0.3%, or no phytoglycogen (placebo) to their face twice a day for 6 weeks and were assessed by an expert grader at the baseline and after 6 weeks of treatment. The impact of phytoglycogen on crow's feet wrinkles was evident in facial images taken with a VISIA-CR system. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g0xMz_tXPbOTQPhOD-9AvXmyZimOJBfF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31182 [article]

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Third generation peptides just around corner / Philippe Mondon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 101-103 Titre : Third generation peptides just around corner Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Mondon, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 101-103 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Peptides are widely known for their effectiveness and their benefits on skin and hair beauty. The figures speak for themselves: between 1,600 and 2,000 new products dedicated to skin care containing peptides are launched every year in the world (Source Mintel GNPD) and this trend does not weaken. The first generation was composed of protein hydrolysates whose composition in peptide fragments was variable. The development of defined sequences that were reproducing endogenous skin peptides represented the second generation of messenger peptides called Matrikines.Their biomimetics and their proven efficacy made them emblematic assets of cosmetics with diverse activities. This article aims to introduce the latest discoveries of a new generation of peptides. Note de contenu : - Development of a new generation of peptides - A unique action on the three different vertical lines Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31183 [article]

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A natural silicone alternative in skin care products / Tiffany Quinn in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) . - p. 97-99 Titre : A natural silicone alternative in skin care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tiffany Quinn, Auteur ; Robert A. Harper, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 97-99 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Texture Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Produits naturels Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Floramac 10 is a moisturising mixture of macadamia esters. Floramac 10 leaves a silky, smooth after-feel similar to cyclopentasiloxane and provides excellent oxidative stability, high spread, and low slip. Naturally-derived ingredients, such as Floramac 10, that offer functionality similar to silicones can be very useful to skin and hair care applications, particulary with the regulatory and health issues surrounding volatile silicones. Floramac 10 is a dry emolient that can be used to provide a similar skin feel to silicones, in addition to providing functionality such as skin radiance and hydratation. Previous studies have also demonstrated that Floramac 10 provides conditionning benefits to hair care products similar to those provided by silicones. The results of all of these studies offer formulators an effective natural alternative to silicones in skin and hair care applications. Note de contenu : - Mimicking the sensory profile of silicones - Consumer preference - Increased skin radiance and hydration - Table 1 : Physical properties of silicones and silicone alternatives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1feL6SYNPZeQ6Cj4888K8LnBhH3ckbBQm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31184 [article]

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Third generation peptides justs around corner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 4 (09/2018) Titre : Third generation peptides justs around corner Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2018 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Peptides are widely known and recognised for their effectiveness and their benefits on skin and hair beauty. The figures speak for themselves : between, 1600 and 2000 new products dedicated to skin care containing peptides are launched every year in the world (Source Mintel GNPD) and this trend does not weaken. The first generation was composed of protein hydrolysates whose composition in peptide fragments was variable. The development of defined sequences that were reproducing endogenous skin peptides represented the second generation of messenger peptides called Matrikines. Their biomimetics and their proven efficacy made them emblematic assets of cosmetics with diverse activities. This article aims to introduce the latest discoveries of a new generation of peptides. Note de contenu : - Development of a new generation of peptides - A unique action on the three different vertical lines - Fig. 1 : Copper complex of a glycyl-histidyl-lysine (GHK) peptide, Matrikine example - Fig. 2 : Variation of mature collagen-I anv-VI fibre productions by dermal fibroblasts in the presence of the new peptide (eq. 1.4%) (x200). Immunocytology - Fig. 3 : Examples of volunteers with a visible reduction of the frown lines after use of 2% new peptide for 6 week - Fig. 4 : Example of improvement of the marionette lines after use of the new peptide for 6 weeks En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-csuAkDppALxKt9Ma5pU6JEmh5-FTzDt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31582 [article]

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