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Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics / Akio Kashimoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 183-187 Titre : Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Akio Kashimoto, Auteur ; Yoshimune Nonomura, Auteur ; Hajime Hotta, Auteur ; Toshiyuki Suzuki, Auteur ; Yohei Kaneko, Auteur ; Kazuhiro Iitaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 183-187 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Poudre  'Moulage  pression'  Liant  'Lauroyl  taurate  de  calcium'  'Polymère  contact' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra-low pressure molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named soft press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: (i) mixing the binder dispersion; (ii) soft compression; and (iii) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using soft press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30 wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation of a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10473 [article]

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20-O-β-D-Glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K) induces expression of hyaluronan synthase 2 gene in transformed human keratinocytes and fibroblasts and increases hyaluronan in hairless mouse skin / Sujong Kim in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 189-195 Titre : 20-O-β-D-Glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K) induces expression of hyaluronan synthase 2 gene in transformed human keratinocytes and fibroblasts and increases hyaluronan in hairless mouse skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sujong Kim, Auteur ; Byung Young Kang, Auteur ; Si Yong Cho, Auteur ; Dae Suk Sung, Auteur ; Eiu Suk Shin, Auteur ; Hui Kyung Chang, Auteur ; Myung Hun Yeom, Auteur ; Kwang Sik Woo, Auteur ; Duk Hee Kim, Auteur ; Young Chul Sim, Auteur ; Yong Sung Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 189-195 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'cDNA  microarray'  '20-O-?-D-glucopyranosyle-20  (S)-protopanaxadiole'  'ginsenosides'  Hyaluronane  'Synthase  de  hyaluronane' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ginsenosides, the major active ingredient of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory activities. To understand the effects of 20-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol (compound K), one of the major metabolites of ginsenosides on the skin, we assessed the expression level of approximately 100 transcripts in compound K-treated HaCaT cells using cDNA microarray analysis. Compound K treatment induced differential expression of 40 genes, which have been reported to be involved in the organization of the structure of the extracellular matrix as well as defense responses in human skin cells. One of the most interesting findings is a two-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase2 (HAS2) gene expression by compound K. We found that change in expression of HAS2 gene represents a specific response of HaCaT cells to compound K because hyaluronan synthase 1,3 was not changed by treatment with compound K. We also demonstrated that the compound K effectively induced hyaluronan synthesis in human skin cells and hairless mouse skin. A human clinical study indicated that topical application of compound K containing oil-in-water emulsion showed improvement of xerosis, wrinkle and fine lines in the aged skin. We concluded that compound K has anti-aging effects by the induction of HAS2 gene expression and following hyaluronan synthase. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10474 [article]

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Photochemical behavior assessment of sunscreen preparations by in vitro UV spectroscopy / Louis Ferrero in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 197-205 Titre : Photochemical behavior assessment of sunscreen preparations by in vitro UV spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Louis Ferrero, Auteur ; Marc Pissavini, Auteur ; Stephanie Marguerie, Auteur ; Leonhard Zastrow, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 197-205 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Comportement  photochimique  in  vitre'  'Test  de  produit  antisolaire'  'Photoprotection  UVA  et  UVB  '  'Spectroscopie  UV' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In this study, we used a spectroscopic method, found effective in measuring sunscreen photo-degradation results in terms of a photoabsorption decrease. The traditional approach was to measure variations in well-known parameters such as the absolute in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) or the relative UVA/UVB ratio after a controlled dose of UV radiation. However, these parameters fail to fully reflect the product's photochemical behavior. Variation in the SPF mainly depicts changes in UVB filtration, and variation in the relative parameter UVA/UVB ratio can be subjected to misinterpretation, as is the case for products in which a parallel loss of photoabsorption is observed in the UVA and UVB regions. In our laboratory, we developed a new approach using pure spectroscopic UVA and UVB attenuation factors called UVA attenuation factor and UVB attenuation factor. Attenuation factors are defined here as the inverse of the arithmetic mean of the transmittance data, taken either from the UVB region (290–320 nm, 1 nm steps) or the UVA region (320–400 nm, 1 nm steps). Using these two new spectroscopic indices, the photochemical behavior of a sunscreen formula can be assessed in each UV region. The general procedure consists of applying two UV doses to a film of sunscreen previously spread on a roughened polymethylmethacrylate plate and then measuring the UV transmission versus wavelength before and after the irradiation process. We tested different UV filters in a cosmetic base to demonstrate the efficacy of the method. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10475 [article]

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Reconstructed human epidermis as an efficient tool in the evaluation of the effects of UV irradiation and of the photoprotective capacities of a sunblock / Alain Mavon in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 209-214 Titre : Reconstructed human epidermis as an efficient tool in the evaluation of the effects of UV irradiation and of the photoprotective capacities of a sunblock Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alain Mavon, Auteur ; Christelle Gélis, Auteur ; Patricia Vicendo, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 209-214 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : UVA  'Irradiation  solaire'  'Expression  P53'  Produit  antisolaire'  'Modèle  alternatif'  'Reconstruction  de  l'épiderme  humain' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Solar or UVA (ultraviolet A) irradiation of the skin causes biological damage, including apoptosis, which is evident in the form of sunburn cells and the overexpression of p53. These two parameters, as well as the measurement of cellular viability, were used to evaluate the effects of UV irradiation on a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, with and without the photoprotection of a broad spectrum sunblock. Reconstructed epidermis models were irradiated by solar spectrum (420 mJ cm–2) or UVA (20 J cm–2). In the absence of irradiation, and with irradiation doses of 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability was estimated at 95, 12 and 70% respectively. Sunburn cells per cm were evaluated at 0, 41 and 22, respectively under these same conditions. The apoptotic response was studied through the expression of p53, which increased at first and was then followed by a specific cleavage, 24 h after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2. However, in the presence of a broad spectrum sunblock preparation (a combination of OMC, MBTBP, TiO2 and ZnO) and after irradiation at 420 mJ cm–2 and 20 J cm–2, viability increased to 40 and 85% respectively. The number of sunburn cells (SBC) per cm fell to 12 and nine respectively. The photoprotection provided by the sunblock limited the increase in the expression of p53 and resulted in the total disappearance of the cleavage. This study shows that human reconstructed epidermis is a valid skin model for use in the evaluation of the effects of solar and UVA irradiation, as well as in the testing of the efficacy of sunfilters. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10476 [article]

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High spatial resolution study of human skin using synchrotron infrared microscopy : application to the penetration of external agents / Natalie Gross in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 217-224 Titre : High spatial resolution study of human skin using synchrotron infrared microscopy : application to the penetration of external agents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Natalie Gross, Auteur ; Sylvie Marull, Auteur ; Claude Fromageot, Auteur ; Manhattan Lebel, Auteur ; Jean-Marie Baret, Auteur ; Alain Barbier, Auteur ; Jean-Michel Ortega, Auteur ; Paul Dumas, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 217-224 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cosmétiques  'Microscopie  infrarouge'  Peau  Synchrotron  synchrotron Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human skin sections were studied using synchrotron-powered infrared microscopy. The superior lateral resolution achieved with this technique (diffraction-limited spot sizes) allows the detailed analysis of the biocomposition of the skin layers. It is shown that highly organized lipids are present in the stratum corneum, as evidenced by a slight frequency difference in the symmetric stretch mode of the methylene groups. Biochemical images were generated showing the precise location of the lipids, proteins and collagen across the skin section. More enhanced images were generated using a statistical approach (fuzzy C-means clustering). Penetration of two external agents (cyanophenol and a cosmetic compound, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) was studied. The penetration pathway across the stratum corneum is favored at locations of lower lipid concentration. Both compounds penetrated into the epidermis, but neither of them induced a change in the protein secondary structure. It was shown that hair follicle is a favored penetration pathway for these agents. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10477 [article]

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Development of effects of plant extracts on the activity and expression of UVA-induced MMPs (matrix metalloproteases) / Dong-hwan Lee in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 227-231 Titre : Development of effects of plant extracts on the activity and expression of UVA-induced MMPs (matrix metalloproteases) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dong-hwan Lee, Auteur ; Bum-chun Lee, Auteur ; Eun-jeong Yoon, Auteur ; Kyung-eun Lee, Auteur ; Sung-min Park, Auteur ; Hyeong-bae Pyo, Auteur ; Tae-boo Choe, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 227-231 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : MMP  UVA  'Extraits  de  plante'  'Tussilago  farfara'  'Dicentra  spectabilis' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The effects of several natural products on in vitro MMP-1 activity and UVA-induced MMP-1 synthesis in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cultures were studied with the aim of developing novel anti-aging agents from natural sources. We measured MMP-1 activities by fluorescence assay using gelatin as substrates. In addition, UVA-induced MMP-1 expression was analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in HDF cultures, and RT-PCR techniques were used. The results showed a strong inhibitory effect of the extracts of Dicentra spectabilis and of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara. In a concentration of 0.05% (w/v), the extracts of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara and of Dicentra spectabilis inhibited MMP-1 activity by 92 and 87% respectively. At 0.1% (w/v), the extracts of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara and of Dicentra spectabilis suppressed the UVA-induced expression of MMP-1 by an amount similar to that with Vitamin C 200 μm. These results suggest that the extracts of Dicentra spectabilis and of the flower buds of Tussilago farfara effectively protect skin from UV-induced photoaging. Therefore, the extracts are thought to have potential as effective raw materials for anti-aging cosmetics. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10480 [article]

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