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Development of lip treatment on the basis of desquamation mechanism / Rie Hikima in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004) . - p. 3-10 Titre : Development of lip treatment on the basis of desquamation mechanism Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rie Hikima, Auteur ; Shigeru Igarashi, Auteur ; Naoko Ikeda, Auteur ; Masayuki Matsumoto, Auteur ; Atsushi Hanyama, Auteur ; Yuichiro Egawa, Auteur ; Toshio Horikoshi, Auteur ; Shoji Hayashi, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 3-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cornéocyte  Desquamation  'Protéase  cathepsine  D'  Lèvres  'Lèvres  gercées'  'Soin  des  lèvres' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Lip chapping is a serious cosmetics problem, though remedies other than moisturization have not been proposed. We investigated changes in the surface configurations of lip corneocytes and activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases associated with lip chapping. Using scanning electron microscopy, villus-like projections were observed on the inner surfaces of most corneocytes from normal lips, whereas those with flatter surface were predominantly found in chapped lips. Furthermore, cell surface area increased with the severity of lip chapping. Cathepsin D-like and chymo-trypsin-like proteinase, which are also present in skin as desquamation-regulating proteinases, were detected in lip corneocytes, though only cathepsin D activity was found to decrease in severely chapped lips. Hydration was also lower in areas of lip chapping. Sequential topical application of apricot extract essence increased cathepsin D activity and improved chapping severity. Our results suggest that lip chapping can be characterized as similar to senile xerosis rather than dry skin such as winter xerosis, as it shows a delayed transition of corneocytes through the stratum corneum, and the reduced cathepsin D activity may be one of the mechanisms that is further decreased by low hydration. We propose that an enhancement of both cathepsin D activity and lip moisture may be effective to improve lip chapping. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10486 [article]

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Formulating for efficacy / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004) . - p. 13-20 Titre : Formulating for efficacy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Caroline L. Kelly, Auteur ; Trevor G. Blease, Auteur ; J. Chris Dederen, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 13-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Ingredients  actifs'  'Profils  de  distribution  peau'  'Sélection  d'émollients'  'Index  relatif  polarité'  'Système  livraison'  'Conception  formulation'  'Coefficient  cloison  d'octanol/eau' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right ingredient needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time and the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the relative polarity index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10541 [article]

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Versican expression by dermal papilla-regenerated hair follicles – a promising tool for hair-regrowth products / Jiro Kishimoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004) . - p. 21-28 Titre : Versican expression by dermal papilla-regenerated hair follicles – a promising tool for hair-regrowth products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jiro Kishimoto, Auteur ; Tsutomu Soma, Auteur ; Robert Burgeson, Auteur ; Toshihiko Hibino, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 21-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Follicule  pileux'  Protéoglycane  Versicane  Régéneration Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair follicle stem cells and dermal papilla cells play essential roles in the cyclical hair regeneration process. However, compared with the recent progress of follicular stem cell research, detailed analysis of dermal papilla cells is virtually unknown. We have focused on a large chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan molecule, versican, and prove its pivotal role in hair follicle induction both in vitro and in vivo. First, we examined versican expression with hair cycling by in situ hybridization (mRNA) and immunohistochemistry (protein). Results clearly showed specific versican expression in anagen onset of dermal papilla cells implying a function role of versican in hair induction. We then generated transgenic lines with LacZ or green fluorescent protein reporter genes under a versican regulatory element (promoter) control, and confirmed dermal papilla-specific activation of the reporter. These transgenic lines were utilized to isolate the dermal papilla cell population by means of a fluorescent activated cell sorter. While freshly isolated dermal papilla cells were able to induce hair growth in a skin reconstitution assay when grafted with undifferentiated epidermal cells, this ability and versican expression were rapidly lost during passages in culture. In order to examine the functional role of versican in hair growth induction, versican full-length cDNAs were transfected into inactive passaged dermal papilla cells. Impressively, this forced expression of versican molecules partially restored hair inductivity of dermal papilla cells in a skin reconstitution assay. These results demonstrated the pivotal role of versican in hair induction both in vitro and in vivo and will connect the missing link between the signal from dermal papilla cells to follicular stem cells, and initiation of hair regeneration. We have also shown that the hair growth-promoting compound, cyclosporin A, can upregulate versican expression implying the application of a novel screening approach for hair growth-promoting compounds by monitoring versican expression as an indicator. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10542 [article]

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Assessment of visibility of facial wrinkle reduction by various types of observers / Joyce H. D. M. Westerink in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004) . - p. 31-36 Titre : Assessment of visibility of facial wrinkle reduction by various types of observers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joyce H. D. M. Westerink, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 31-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Réduction  des  rides'  'Douceur  de  peau'  'Evaluation  visuelle'  'Types  d'observateur' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The prime objective of many facial wrinkle-reduction treatments is to achieve visible improvement. The visibility of before/after treatment differences is therefore often part of the efficacy assessment. This paper investigates whether the background knowledge of the people acting as observers in such assessments has an impact on the results, e.g., the subjects themselves are familiar with their faces, skin professionals have much experience in judging skin quality, and thus both might be more sensitive to small changes. In a clinical study, 44 female subjects were regularly treated during a period of 12 weeks with one of three wrinkle-reduction treatments : K, L and M (placebo). Photographs were taken before treatment and after 6 and 12 weeks. Three different types of observers judged the photographs: - Observer type I : Twenty-four lay observers were given the 0- and 6-week and the 0- and 12-week pairs of photographs of all subjects to indicate the one with the least wrinkles in a two-alternative forced-choice procedure, - Observer type II : The subjects themselves were given the 0- and 6-week and the 0- and 12-week pairs of their own photographs (eight replications) to indicate the photograph with the least wrinkles (two-alternative forced-choice), - Observer type III : A trained panel of skin professionals (n = 3) each gave a 9-point Fitzpatrick wrinkle-severity score for all individual 0- and 12-week photographs. It was found that the lay observers perceived the same differences as the subjects themselves: significant improvements after 12 weeks for treatment K (P < 0.0005 and P = 0.005, respectively). No visible effects were seen for treatments L and M, but, most importantly, a significant difference between treatments K and M (placebo) (P = 0.015 and P = 0.01 for independent observers and the subjects themselves, respectively). The trained panel also identified this difference between K and M (P = 0.013) in favor of K, but here it was due to a significant deterioration over time of the ‘placebo-treated’ wrinkles (M, P = 0.03). Thus, in conclusion, no indications were found that extra knowledge – in the form of familiarity with the own face or in the form of professional training – results in the identification of more treatments that show significantly visible wrinkle reduction. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10543 [article]

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Down regulation of nuclear factor-kappaB activation in human keratinocytes by melanogenesis inhibitors / Kwang Seok Ahn in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 1 (01-02-03/2004) . - p. 39-45 Titre : Down regulation of nuclear factor-kappaB activation in human keratinocytes by melanogenesis inhibitors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kwang Seok Ahn, Auteur ; Jinseon Lee, Auteur ; Yeong Shik Kim, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 39-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Kératinocyte  'Inhibiteurs  de  la  mélanogenèse'  'Activité  NK-?B'  'Cellules  transfectantes'  'Lumière  ultraviolette  B' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Liberated nuclear factor-kappaB (NF-κB) is translocated into the nucleus where it can change or alter the expression of target genes, resulting in the secretion of extracellular signaling molecules including melanotrophic factors affecting the melanocyte. In order to demonstrate the possible role of NF-κB activation on the synthesis of melanotrophic factors from the keratinocytes, the activities of NF-κB induced by melanogenesis inhibitors were determined in human HaCaT keratinocytes transfected with pNF-κB-SEAP-NPT plasmid. Transfectant cells released the secretory alkaline phosphatase (SEAP) as a transcription reporter in response to the NF-kB activity. Melanogenesis inhibitors such as niacinamide, kojic acid, hydroquinone, resorcinol, arbutin and glycolic acid were pre-incubated with transfectant HaCaT cells for 3 h and then irradiated with ultraviolet B (UVB). Of the melanogenesis inhibitors tested, kojic acid (IC50 = 60 μM) was found to be the most potent inhibitor of UVB-upregulating NF-κB activation in transfectant HaCaT cells, which is followed by niacinamide (IC50 = 540 μM). Especially kojic acid and niacinamide effectively lowered NF-κB binding as measured by the electrophoretic mobility shift assay. Furthermore, these two inhibitors remarkably reduced the secretion level of IL (interleukin)-6, one of the melanotrophic factors, triggered by UV radiation of the HaCaT cells. These observations suggest that melanogenesis inhibitors working at the in vivo level might act partially through the modulation of the synthesis of melanotrophic factors in keratinocytes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10544 [article]

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