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Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo / Ping Hu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 333-347 Titre : Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ping Hu, Auteur ; Jim Henry, Auteur ; Jay P. Tiesman, Auteur ; Mirjana Parlov, Auteur ; Rob Bacon, Auteur ; Duane Charbonneau, Auteur ; Arvind Venkataraman, Auteur ; Kathryn C. S. Locker, Auteur ; Holly Krigbaum, Auteur ; Jim Schwartz, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 333-347 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse génétique Antipelliculaires Caractérisation Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Métagénomique La métagénomique ou génomique environnementale est une méthode d'étude du contenu génétique d'échantillons issus d'environnements complexes (ex : intestin, océan, sols, air, etc.) prélevés dans la nature (par opposition à des échantillons cultivés en laboratoire). Cette approche, via le séquençage direct de l'ADN présent dans l'échantillon, permet une description génomique du contenu de l'échantillon, mais aussi un aperçu du potentiel fonctionnel d'un environnement. L'utilisation du préfixe "méta-" signifiant "au-delà", "après" ; ici, la métagénomique vient au-delà la génomique en étudiant les organismes directement dans leur environnement sans passer par une étape de culture en laboratoire. (Wikipedia) Microbiologie Microbiome Le microbiome (du grec micro = petit et bios = vie) est l'« aire biotique » (aire de vie) du microbiote, le mot microbiote désignant ici les espèces autrefois groupées sous le terme « microflore », c'est-à-dire celles qui prédominent et/ou sont durablement adaptées à la surface et à l'intérieur d'un organisme vivant. Pellicules (dermatologie) Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To characterize the scalp microbial composition, function, and connection to dandruff severity using a metagenomics approach and to understand the impact of a Piroctone Olamine containing anti-dandruff shampoo on the scalp microbiome. - METHODS : Shotgun metagenomics was used to characterize the composition of the scalp microbiomes from 94 subjects with and without clinically defined dandruff. Furthermore, the microbiome of the scalps of 100 dandruff sufferers before and after 3 weeks of treatment with either control or anti-dandruff shampoo containing 0.5% Piroctone Olamine (PO) was characterized and compared to identify microorganisms associated with the dandruff condition and the associated pathways and processes that may contribute to PO's effect on scalp microbiome. - RESULTS : A higher relative abundance of Malassezia restricta and Staphylococcus capitis and a lower abundance of Cutibacterium acnes were associated with the dandruff scalps relative to the no-dandruff scalps. A 3-week PO shampoo treatment reduced the relative abundance of Malassezia species and Staphylococcus capitis and increased the relative abundance of Cutibacterium acnes. This change to the scalp microbiome composition is consistent with a return to a healthy no-dandruff microbiome and improved clinical signs and symptoms as measured by adherent scalp flaking score (ASFS) compared with the control shampoo. Functional genomics analysis showed that the PO shampoo treatment reduced oxidative stress-associated genes and decreased the abundance of protease, urease, and lipase genes. These changes correlated positively to improvements in dandruff severity. PO treatment favourably shifted scalp microbiomes in dandruff subjects toward the no-dandruff state. - CONCLUSION : Our results suggest that part of the aetiology of dandruff can be attributed to dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. PO treatment can restore a healthier microbiome, reducing oxidative stress and promoting better scalp health. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design, subject recruitment, and sample collection - Sample preparation for microbial sequencing - Bioinformatics analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Clinical scalp flaking assessments for the Dandruff microbiome characterization study and the treatment study - Scalp microbiota composition is different between dandruff and no-dandruff subjects - Scalp microbiota composition before and after 3-week treatment with different shampoos - Scalp microbial diversity - Biological function analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12933 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eQ4ctSq_IATKn4R1lz0WLMTxF4txJ4aP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41336 [article]

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Age-related hair denaturation related to protein carbonyls / Naoya Fuse in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 348-356 Titre : Age-related hair denaturation related to protein carbonyls Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Naoya Fuse, Auteur ; Shigeaki Morita, Auteur ; Yukako Matsue, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 348-356 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Carbonylation Cheveux -- Vieillissement Chimie analytique Dermatologie Spectrométrie infrarouge Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Hair ageing is accompanied by hair fibres becoming irregularly shaped causing them to stick out in irregular directions or have more curliness and being spread out. This is believed to be due to changes within the hair fibre structure which occur with ageing, and one of the causes of these changes could be an increase in the number of protein carbonyl groups present in the hair. The aim of this study is to investigate the internal denaturation of hair related to protein carbonyls in attempt to gain new insight into age-related changes that occur in hair. - METHODS : The degree of carbonylation of the hair structural protein as determined by fluorescent labelling and Western blotting analysis was used to investigate the primary structure of hair protein. The amount of helix, a common conformation in the secondary structure of proteins, in hair in groups of women with different ages was also analysed using infrared microscopy coupled with multivariate curve resolution (MCR). From the results of this, an image of the two-dimensional distribution of the α-helices was generated for the hair taken from each age group. Also, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) of the hair in water was performed on the hair taken from each age group to determine the peak temperature of endothermic effect and the enthalpy of denaturation. - RESULTS : We found that the amino group content in hair proteins decreased and Type II keratin, one of the subunits of intermediate filament, was more carbonylated with age. The results of the MCR indicated eight separate components, including components of the secondary structure of proteins, such as α helices and β sheets. Two-dimensional images of the hair cross-sections revealed that the presence of α helices decreased with age. In addition, data from the HPDSC showed that the enthalpy associated with the denaturing temperature also significantly decreased with age. - CONCLUSION : These results suggest that there is a negative correlation between age and structural integrity of the helix segment in intermediate filament. The results of this study also show that there is a positive correlation between age-related hair denaturation and protein carbonyls. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test material and chemicals - Measurement of average curvature of hair fibres - Visualization and quantification of amino groups in the hair - Western blot analysis - FT-IR microscopy analysis - High-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Change of average curvature with age - Analysis of primary structure of hair protein-analysis of hair protein extract - Visualization of secondary structure of hair protein using FT-IR coupled MCR - Analysis of age-related denaturation of IF and IFAPs by HPDSC DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12934 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qsAmxlVbPaHp3ixmrXw6vFgcPY9cyGPJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41337 [article]

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Investigation of piroctone olamine delivery to the skin from single, binary and ternary solvent systems / Chun Fung Tang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 357-367 Titre : Investigation of piroctone olamine delivery to the skin from single, binary and ternary solvent systems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chun Fung Tang, Auteur ; Paul D. A. Pudney, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 357-367 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Pellicules (dermatologie) Perméation Piroctone olamine Produits capillaires solvants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Disruption of the protective stratum corneum barrier increases the skin's vulnerability to microorganisms and facilitates conditions such as dandruff. Dandruff is a disorder of the scalp that causes increased scaling of the SC and is associated with Malassezia fungus. Consequently, many anti-dandruff commercial products use anti-fungal active ingredients such as piroctone olamine also known as Octopirox (OPX). OPX is an active ingredient used in a number of topical preparations for the management of dandruff. The characterization of the physicochemical properties of OPX was previously reported. The aim of the present work was to investigate a range of solvent systems for their effects on OPX interaction with human skin. - METHODS : The solvents used in this study were propylene glycol (PG), diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or Transcutol® (TC), PG monolaurate (PGML), isopropyl myristate (IPM), caprylic/capric triglyceride or Labrafacâ„¢ Lipophile WL 1349 (LAB), PG caprylate or Capryol® 90 (CAP), isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) and Plurol® Oleique CC 497 (PIOI). The single solvent systems evaluated were PG, TC, PGML, IPM, ISIS and CAP. For the binary solvent systems, PG and TC were examined. Ternary solvent systems consisted of: PG, TC and LAB; PG, PGML and LAB; and PG, TC and IPM. The concentration of OPX used was 1% (w/v). Heat-separated human epidermis was used for 24 h permeation experiments performed under finite dose conditions; mass balance studies were also conducted. - RESULTS : For the six single solvents examined no permeation was evident. Skin permeation of OPX was observed for binary and ternary solvent systems. The highest permeation for all PG:TC binary solvent system ratios tested was from the PG:TC (75:25) system. For the ternary solvent systems investigated, highest cumulative permeation of OPX was observed for PG:PGML:LAB (60:30:10). Considering all systems, PG:TC (75:25) delivered the greatest amount of OPX through the skin. Although OPX is deposited in the skin following the application of neat solvents, higher skin retention values were generally observed for binary and ternary systems. - CONCLUSION : To our knowledge, this is the first study to examine the permeation behaviour of OPX for a range of single, binary and ternary solvent systems. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Solubility studies and solubility parameter calculation - In vitro permeation experiments - Mass balance studies - High-performance liquid chromatography analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Solubility parameter of single, binary and ternary solvent systems - Single solvent systems - Binary solvent systems - Ternary solvent systems DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12935 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wgn22cWyxcqjXAg9dHLP1fLp_udsevx_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41338 [article]

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Deep skin homogeneity and light diffusion : An accelerated Monte Carlo model for in vivo skin characterization and consumer perception / Germain Puccetti in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 368-379 Titre : Deep skin homogeneity and light diffusion : An accelerated Monte Carlo model for in vivo skin characterization and consumer perception Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Germain Puccetti, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 368-379 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Lumière -- Diffusion Modèles numériques Monte-Carlo, Méthode de Peau Peau -- Perception visuelle Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The appearance of healthy and youthful skin is related to many factors of the skin optical properties as perceived by our visual sense. The optics of light travelling through human tissues has been extensively investigated in the field of biomedical applications, including the experimental characterization and modelling of skin optics and the propagation of light such as lasers through the layers. This work presents an innovative approach to probe deep skin by means of spectrally and spatially resolved light diffusion in the different layers of skin. Dual hyperspectral measurements of the panellist's skin are performed in vivo on subjects to obtain reflectance and light diffusion spectra. Both are simultaneously fitted by a GPU-accelerated Monte Carlo model to obtain skin optical parameters as a function of depth. The results show a clear correlation between deep skin light diffusion at wavelengths above 590 nm and the subject age, which indicates a progressive degradation of skin homogeneity with age. The effect of this orange–red light diffusion background is to alter the colour tone of the skin. A skincare product is used to show that the warmer skin colour tone is clearly perceivable to consumers when evaluating facial images with and without the product. The product effect also correlates well with hyperspectral measurements. Lastly, this innovative approach demonstrates a first step in real-time skin characterization for consumers and opens the door to customized cosmetic solutions for individual needs. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : Volunteers - Instrumental - Monte Carlo modelling - Light dispersion analysis - RESULTS : Light diffusion versus age - Product application DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12936 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zdhv83PIbxRoh_kG49HN0shEqOIoIZtR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41339 [article]

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A modified protocol for studying filaggrin degradation using a reconstructed human epidermis model under low and high humidity / Qilong Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 380-390 Titre : A modified protocol for studying filaggrin degradation using a reconstructed human epidermis model under low and high humidity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Qilong Chen, Auteur ; Ning Wei, Auteur ; Yina Lu, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 380-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Désimination La désimination, aussi nommée citrullination, est une modification post-traductionnelle aux multiples facettes. Elle est impliquée dans de nombreux processus cellulaires physiologiques comme la régulation génique, le développement embryonnaire ou encore la différenciation terminale, mais aussi dans divers mécanismes physiopathologiques liés à des maladies humaines graves, comme la sclérose en plaques ou la polyarthrite rhumatoïde. La désimination, conversion enzymatique dépendante du calcium de peptidyl-arginines en peptidyl- citrullines, entraîne une perte de charge des protéines-substrats, ce qui a des conséquences majeures sur leur conformation, leur stabilité, leurs interactions et donc leurs fonctions. Chez l’homme, il existe cinq isotypes de peptidyl-arginine désiminases présentant une expression tissulaire variable. Ces isotypes sont très homologues et étroitement régulés aux niveaux transcriptionnel et post-transcriptionnel, comme, probablement, par auto-désimination. (Méchin Marie-Claire et al. Médecine/sciences 2011 Vol. 27, p. 49-54) Epiderme reconstruit Filaggrine Protéolyse En biochimie, la protéolyse est la segmentation des protéines en ses fragments de base (acides aminés) via l'hydrolyse catalysée par des enzymes dits "protéolytiques" (protéases ou hydrolases). (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Filaggrin (FLG) is an essential protein that plays a vital role in maintaining skin barrier function and moisture levels, allowing the skin to adapt to dry environments. However, the precise temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism in the human epidermis remain poorly understood, and suitable tools to study these time-dependent effects are currently lacking. - OBJECTIVE : To investigate the molecular mechanisms and time course of FLG metabolism and skin barrier function under high- and low-humidity conditions, utilizing a reconstructed epidermis model. - METHODS : EpiSkin specimens cultured under humid or dry conditions for varying durations (2–48 h) were compared by assessing FLG degradation and skin barrier formation using immunofluorescence staining and western blotting. - RESULTS : Under conditions of low humidity, the proteolysis of FLG in EpiSkin increased between 4 and 12 h and was accompanied by elevated levels of cysteine–aspartic protease (caspase)-14. The expression of peptidyl arginine deiminase 1 and calpain 1 also increased at 4 h. However, after 24 h, the expression of these three FLG-degrading proteins significantly decreased. Conversely, the levels of pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and urocanic acid initially decreased at 2 h and then increased between 12 and 24 h. Additionally, the expression of skin barrier proteins, such as FLG, transglutaminase 5, loricrin and zonula occludens-1, decreased starting from 12 h. Notably, epidermal cell viability and activity were also inhibited. - CONCLUSION : We propose a reliable and ethical model to study the temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism and its role in skin barrier function. Using a commercially reconstructed epidermis to mimic dry skin formation obviates the need for animal and human testing. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : EpiSkin culture conditions - Cell viability measurement - Haematoxylin–eosin (HE) and immunofluorescence staining - Quantification of PCA and UCA - Western blotting - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Low humidity thickens the SC and reduces cell viability in EpiSkin - Low humidity promotes FLG degradation into PCA and UCA - Deimination and proteolysis are involved in FLG degradation - Persistently low humidity reduces skin barrier function DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12937 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BofDSqKJx_VeScQCg4XoFfrILKe29b53/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41340 [article]

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Safety-in-use test of facial cosmetic products on normal and self-assessed sensitive skin subjects / Yuan Gao in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 391-402 Titre : Safety-in-use test of facial cosmetic products on normal and self-assessed sensitive skin subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuan Gao, Auteur ; Petra S. Kern, Auteur ; Deborah Schoborg, Auteur ; J. F. Nash, Auteur ; Swatee Dey, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 391-402 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Oeil -- Inflammation Peau -- Inflammation Sensibilité cutanée Tests de sécurité Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Safety-in-use (SIU) studies are commonly used by the cosmetic industry to confirm the skin and ocular compatibility of cosmetic products under realistic in–use conditions. There are only limited case studies published about the design, outcome and interpretation of product SIU studies. - OBJECTIVE : A series of SIU case studies is presented to demonstrate the considerations in study design and how the methodology can help in supporting skin and ocular safety profile of facial cosmetic products within a population of different ethnicities with normal and self-perceived sensitive skin. - SUJECTS/METHODS : In a series of four single-blinded SIU studies, more than 250 female study subjects of different ethnicities and with normal and self-assessed sensitive skin were asked to use different facial cosmetic products including lotions, essences and cleansers according to the instructed usage conditions of these products. Each study was specifically designed according to product usage scenarios and target consumer groups. The primary measures of safety were based on dermal evaluations by a dermatologist for erythema and dryness/scaling and by an ophthalmologist for any visible signs of an ocular condition on eyelids, conjunctivae and cornea. The study subjects were also asked for any self-perceived skin or eye reactions. Dermal and ocular irritation potential of the products under realistic product usage conditions was evaluated according to the measures. - RESULTS : Across all studies, objectively and self-assessed mean scores for skin and eye effects did not indicate any cumulative response of the investigated products over the study period. - CONCLUSIONS : As a suitable tool for assessing and establishing the skin and eye compatibility of facial cosmetic products, SIU studies can be designed according to specific consumer groups, skin types and product usage scenarios to better predict realistic in-use conditions. It can demonstrate the safe use of the investigated products for people of different ethnicities, skin types and with normal or self-assessed sensitive skin, single product use or regimen use. The test results are consistent with the inherently low irritation potential of the products. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12938 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18FdT9gALWup4nHtHI8cCwwhrk6c7Op5_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41341 [article]

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Mild but effective skin cleansing—Evaluation of laureth-23 as a primary surfactant / Anja Dick in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 403-413 Titre : Mild but effective skin cleansing—Evaluation of laureth-23 as a primary surfactant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anja Dick, Auteur ; Hermann Josef Stolz, Auteur ; Flora Karla Sonsmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 403-413 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Physiologie Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - METHODS : In this study, the potential of laureth-23 as a primary surfactant was evaluated and compared to other fatty alcohol ethoxylates (FAEO). Also, different laureth-23 surfactant combinations were compared to each other. Therefore, transepidermal water loss, erythema and visual scoring were measured after occlusive patch testing in 24 healthy subjects (aged 18–55). Afterwards, the results were ranked from low to high irritant potential and an irritation score was calculated. Furthermore, the cleaning performance was tested using an automated cleansing device in 10 healthy subjects (aged 18–55). - RESULTS : The results confirmed the low irritant potential of laureth-23 and blends thereof. Within the different laureth-23 surfactant combinations, the combination of laureth-23 with a mild amphoteric and a mild anionic surfactant was superior to other laureth-23 surfactant combinations like laureth-23/anionic/anionic regarding skin compatibility as well as cleaning performance. - CONCLUSION : In conclusion, laureth-23 showed very good performance as a primary surfactant. Especially, the combination of laureth-23, cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium laureth sulfosuccinate was mild to the skin while also showing good cleansing performance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test substances and reference substances - Atopic cleanser (AC) - Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) - Paste-like model dirt (type ‘used oil’) - Occlusive patch testing - Cleaning studies - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Erythema - Epidermal barrier - Irritation score (IRS) - Cleaning factor (CF) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12940 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PZEGG10mO7GxbzZxqnUC-0uOjNUukBtS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41342 [article]

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Correlation between the facial skin microbiome and sensitive skin using the 2bRAD-M technique / Yi-Na Lu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 414-423 Titre : Correlation between the facial skin microbiome and sensitive skin using the 2bRAD-M technique Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yi-Na Lu, Auteur ; Lu Cheng, Auteur ; Xue-mei Shi, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 414-423 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermabacter Microbiome cutané Peau -- Inflammation Sensibilité cutanée Séquençage des acides nucléiques Staphylocoques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : This study aimed to expound on the correlation between facial skin microbiome and sensitive skin (SS) using a novel sequencing technique. - METHODS : We applied the 2bRAD sequencing for the microbiome, which enables accurate characterization of the low-biomass microbiome at species resolution to profile facial skin microbes in SS and non-SS groups. Further, the bacterial colonies were isolated and cultured from skin surfaces to study the pro-inflammatory effect on human keratinocytes by ELISA. - RESULTS : We accordingly identified 1142 genera and 4436 strains. In the SS group, the proportions of Actinomyces and Microbotryomycetes were significantly increased, whereas that of Acidimicrobiia was decreased. Kruskal–Wallis analysis revealed significant differences in 11 genera and 35 species, among which the proportions of Dermabacter, Chryseobacterium, Rhodotorula and Peptoniphilus A were increased in the SS group. Analysis of the top 10 genera revealed increased proportions of Cutibacterium, Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus. Moreover, the proportion of Dermabacter hominis was significantly increased by 18.9-fold in the SS group, whereas those of many Streptococcus strains were significantly decreased. Focus on the isolated bacterial colonies from skin surfaces, more yellow colonies were found in SS group when cultured in Tryptic Soy Broth medium for 48 h, and more interleukin-8 was detected on keratinocytes after yellow colonies stimulation, such as S.capitis, M.luteus. - CONCLUSIONS : This study suggests that more SS-associated microorganisms can be identified using the 2bRAD technique even with a small sample size. Dermabacter hominis and Chryseobacterium was firstly reported with a significantly increase in SS, and the S.capitis, as well as M.luteus, but not S.aureus, may be associated with skin inflammation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Participant recruitment - Measurement of skin parameters - Sample collection - Bacteria isolation, culture and stimulation - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Skin parameters of the participants - Analysis of the skin microbiome - Comparison of the genera and species of skin microbiome between the two groups - The changes of bacterial colonies in SS group DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12941 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x4VzbOtDEJWXrFFvRBQyS0IR_O5LeilW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41343 [article]

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Lipidomic analysis of facial skin surface lipids in acne in young women / Qianqian Su in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 424-436 Titre : Lipidomic analysis of facial skin surface lipids in acne in young women Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Qianqian Su, Auteur ; Xueqing Hu, Auteur ; Manli Yang, Auteur ; Huaming He, Auteur ; Yan Jia, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 424-436 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Dermo-pharmacie Lipides Lipidomique La lipidomique est l'étude à grande échelle des voies et des réseaux de lipides cellulaires dans les systèmes biologiques. Le mot "lipidome" est utilisé pour décrire le profil lipidique complet dans une cellule, un tissu, un organisme ou un écosystème et est un sous-ensemble du « métabolome » qui comprend également les trois autres grandes classes de molécules biologiques : les protéines/acides aminés, les sucres et les acides nucléiques. La lipidomique est un domaine de recherche relativement récent qui a été porté par les progrès rapides de technologies telles que la spectrométrie de masse (MS), la spectroscopie par résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN), la spectroscopie de fluorescence, l'interférométrie à double polarisation et les méthodes informatiques, associées à la reconnaissance du rôle des lipides dans de nombreuses maladies métaboliques telles que l'obésité, l' athérosclérose, les accidents vasculaires cérébraux, l'hypertension et le diabète . Ce domaine en pleine expansion complète les énormes progrès de la génomique et de la protéomique, qui constituent la famille de la biologie des systèmes. (Wikipedia) Phosphatidylinositol Un phosphatidylinositol est un phospholipide, constituant des membranes cellulaires. Il se trouve préférentiellement sur la face interne de la bicouche lipidique. Cette molécule est composée d'un acide phosphatidique (deux acides gras estérifiant une molécule de glycérol, elle-même liée de façon covalente à un acide phosphorique) dont le groupement phosphate est associée à une molécule de myoinositol, un polyol cyclique. Il est activé par deux molécules d'ATP (donnant deux molécules d'ADP) en phosphatidylinositol-4,5-bisphosphate. Par l'intermédiaire de la phospholipase C, il est clivé en diacylglycérol (DAG, qui active la protéine kinase C) et en inositol-1,4,5-trisphosphate (IP3 ; le premier phosphate provient du phospholipide) qui ouvre les canaux Ca2+ intracellulaires. Cette réaction libère de l'eau. La réponse de cette hydrolyse est l'activation d'enzymes, de messages hormonaux. Il est fortement polaire avec une charge nette négative au pH physiologique. Il est abondant dans le système nerveux. (Wikipedia) Triglycérides Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Alterations in the secretion and composition of skin surface lipids (SSL) are closely associated with the development of acne. Lipidomics is a useful tool to analyse the SSL of different types of acne. Our previous study found that phosphatidylserine and triacylglycerols dominate SSL changes in male acne and infantile acne, respectively. However, skin surface lipids as well as specific lipids in female acne patients remain to be investigated. - OBJECTIVES : To analyse and compare the SSL profile of acne women and healthy women and to discuss the involvement of differential lipids in acne development. - METHODS : Systematic lipidomics approach (high-throughput UPLC-QTOF-MS technology in combination with multivariate data analysis methods) was used to analyse the variations of SSL between acne and healthy groups. - RESULTS : Analysis revealed significant differences in lipid content and composition between the two groups. Further analysis showed that levels of 13 individual lipids were significantly different and followed the same trend as the main class and subclasses. The largest individual contributor to the subgroup was triglycerides (TG) and phosphatidylinositol (PI). In addition, female acne patients exhibited reduced ceramide chain length (CCL) and increased levels of unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), The changes of CCL in female acne are identical to male acne. - CONCLUSIONS : There was a significantly higher level of TG and PI in the SSL of female acne patients. A reduction in CCL and an increase in UFAs content might contribute to the reduced skin barrier function in acne patients. The results suggest that female acne may have different pathogenesis than male acne. Note de contenu : - RESULTS : Multivariate data analysis showed a significant difference in SSL between the acne group and the healthy group - Analysis of SSL main lipid classes in acne patients - Analysis of SSL subclass lipid content in acne patients - Potential biomarker screening for SSL on the face of women with acne and healthy women - The ceramides chain length decreased and the unsaturated fatty acid increased in the acne group - DISCUSSION : Potential biomarker analysis of facial SSL in the female acne group and the female healthy group - The impaired skin barrier function of acne patients was caused by the decrease of CCL and the increase of UFAs - Comparison of SSL results in acne patients of different genders - Potential consistency of SSL changes in acne patients of different genders - Potential biomarkers screened differently in acne patients of different genders DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12942 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKrb9FCJLm0uVs49FVbgVkX4Kbaxd3uD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41344 [article]

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Talk to us about your skin : The relationship between spoken language and haptic exploratory procedures / Naomi Arakawa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 437-456 Titre : Talk to us about your skin : The relationship between spoken language and haptic exploratory procedures Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Naomi Arakawa, Auteur ; Tomoko Watanabe, Auteur ; Kyoko Fukushima, Auteur ; Yuko Matsumoto, Auteur ; Masashi Nakatani, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 437-456 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques Toucher Tags : 'Différences  culturelles  cosmétiques'  'Efficacité  des  produits'  'Mouvements  mains'  'Evaluation  sensorielle'  'Mots  sensoriels'  'Perceptions  tactiles' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To enhance satisfaction, the cosmetics industry needs to clearly understand consumers' descriptions of their key tactile preferences. It is difficult for researchers to understand verbal descriptions from people whose native language is different from their own. Previous research has implied that some sensory words with the same lexical meanings have been observed in different haptic exploratory procedures (HEPs). Therefore, our study aims to investigate and understand the key tactile perceptions of people from five different countries based on their descriptions and their HEPs. - METHODS : In Experiment 1, 1545 participants living in the US, Japan, China, Italy, and Thailand described their major tactile perceptions as efficacy in skincare, and we analysed the frequency of each word used in their answers. In Experiment 2, we confirmed the task to observe HEPs for Chinese, Italian, and Thai participants. A total of 24 participants in China, 33 participants in Italy, and 30 participants in Thailand freely explored their faces with their hands and answered which side more closely matched the major tactile adjectives. Experts classified the observed HEPs into six classifications within two categories and three contact area sizes and investigated the cultural differences. - RESULTS : More than 2% of the Chinese, Italian, Thai, US, and Japanese participants described 33, 20, 29, 22, and 18 words, respectively, as efficacy in skincare. Verified words that described the major tactile perceptions in each native language had the same meanings as moistness, firmness, softness, smoothness, and so on. We could confirm the HEPs of these major feelings for the participants from each culture. Chinese and Thai participants' HEPs for moistness or softness were observed with a pressing movement. Conversely, Italian participants' HEPs for moistness or softness were observed with a rubbing movement. - CONCLUSION : This study showed that words with the same lexical meanings evoked different HEPs. The results imply that different HEPs can provide different physical stimuli on the skin. Therefore, it is important to survey both objects and HEPs to better understand the tactile experience. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Experiment 1 : Sensory words in different languages as key tactile experience - Experiment 2 : Investigation of HEPs in three countries - RESULTS : Experiment 1 : Sensory words in different languages as an key tactile experience - Experiment 2 : Investigation of HEPs in three countries Référence de l'article : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12943 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ii4Z_x2GgMlIdGjHspZcrPrhEMGbcaQ5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41345 [article]

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Reconnection of cysteine in reduced hair with alkylene dimaleates via thiol-Michael click chemistry / Yuwen Wu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 457-467 Titre : Reconnection of cysteine in reduced hair with alkylene dimaleates via thiol-Michael click chemistry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuwen Wu, Auteur ; Ling Ma, Auteur ; Timson Chen, Auteur ; Kuan Chang, Auteur ; Jing Wang, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 457-467 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie click Cosmétiques Dimaléate d'alkylène Fibres kératiniques Liaisons disulfures Thiols Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVES : Conventional hair permanent waving (PW) and permanent straightening processes typically involve two steps: reduction, for breaking -S-S- bond in cystine into cysteine and oxidation for -S-S- bond reconnection. However, it is known that the hair incurs damage during the oxidation step. In this work, we proposed a novel strategy to reconnect reduced disulfide bonds in hair via the thiol-Michael click reaction, by using a symmetric Michael reagent. - METHODS : Virgin black Chinese hair was reduced using 8% wt thioglycolic acid and employed as model hair containing a high content of broken disulfide bonds. The reduced hair was treated with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. Raman spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to verify the chemical changes occurred in untreated and treated hair fibre. Single-fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties of the hair were evaluated using tensile testing and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), respectively. - RESULTS : The 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate could reconnect free thiol groups generated by disulfide bond reduction via thiol-Michael click reaction and significantly improve the mechanical strength of hair compared to that of the reduced hair. Secondary conformational resolution analysis of FT-IR results revealed that the content of α-helix structure could be restored after treatment with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. The intermolecular forces established by the newly generated C-S bonds compensate the broken disulfide bonds and enhance the fracture strength of the hair compared to that of reduced hair. Michael reagents of similar structure also showed similar performance in restoring the mechanical properties of reduced hair. - CONCLUSIONS : Our data suggest that 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate can restore the mechanical properties of reduced hair by reconnecting reduced disulfide bonds and restoring the secondary conformation of hair keratin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Reagents - Synthesis of 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate - Hair samples - Hair tensile property tests - Fluorescence microscopy characterization of free thiol groups - Characterization of hair - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Click reaction of free thiol groups in hair - Restoration of mechanical properties of reduced hair - Effect of different treatments on the thermal properties of hair - Evidence of the ability of 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate to restore the disrupted secondary conformation of reduced hair keratin - Restorative performance of alkylene dimaletates with different carbon chain lengths to that of 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12944 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zZm-Vh22Gbs3x-QX1AuXSjUWukCVcve6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41346 [article]

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Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled cosmetic trial of a topical first-in-class Neutraligand targeting the chemokine TARC/CCL17 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis / Nelly Frossard in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 468-477 Titre : Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled cosmetic trial of a topical first-in-class Neutraligand targeting the chemokine TARC/CCL17 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nelly Frossard, Auteur ; Alexandra Coïc, Auteur ; Thibaut Saguet, Auteur ; Alain Coïc, Auteur ; Franck Himbert, Auteur ; Quoc Tuan Do, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Galzi, Auteur ; Carey Suehs, Auteur ; Gerald Guillaumet, Auteur ; Pascal Bonnet, Auteur ; Philippe Bernard, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 468-477 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Eczéma constitutionnel Étude randomisée Justification de l'allégation Ligands Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Atopic dermatitis has a marked economic impact and affects the quality of life. A cosmetic compound with an innovative strategy is proposed here as a small chemical neutraligand, GPN279 (previously identified as a theophylline derivative), that binds and potently neutralizes the TARC/CCL17 chemokine, activating the Th2 cell-expressed CCR4 receptor. - OBJECTIVE : Our objective was to evaluate the safety and activity of topically applied GPN279 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel group trial. Such cosmetic active ingredient targeting dry skin with an atopic tendency would open a parallel strategy to the pharmaceutical approach, in particular for mild to moderate subjects, as an alternative to reduce the evolution towards severe forms of atopy. - METHODS : This 4-week trial included adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis, according to the SCORAD index. Patients were randomized into two groups treated by topical applications of either an emulsion containing 0.44% GPN279 in placebo on skin lesions or the placebo (4.56% glycerin). Clinical activity was evaluated with the SCORAD as the primary objective. As secondary objectives, POEM, erythema, skin moisturization, its barrier function (TEWL) and safety were evaluated. - RESULTS : Twenty-one patients in each group completed the study. SCORAD was significantly improved in the GPN279 group vs. placebo. GPN279 also significantly improved POEM, induced a rapid and significant decrease of erythema, and improved skin moisture. GPN279 and placebo were well tolerated throughout the study. - CONCLUSION : A cosmetic cream comprising the CCL17 neutraligand GPN279 improved the skin barrier and physiology criteria in patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Study design - Patients - Treatments - Outcomes - Statistics - RESULTS : The study population - Primary objective : SCORAD - Secondary objectives : POEM - Erythema - Skin hydration - Safety DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12948 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-YAIOelOQdWxMd_-dUoIEVDkva_5fKN8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41347 [article]

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