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Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application / Charlotte Dallay in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 1-23 Titre : Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions : From microstructure to skin application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charlotte Dallay, Auteur ; Catherine Malhiac, Auteur ; Céline Picard, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 1-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Microstructures Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed. Note de contenu : - DERMOCOSMETIC EMULSIONS AND FRAGRANCE : Dermocosmetic emulsions : Fragrance - EFFECT OF FRAGRANCE ON EMULSION STRUCTURE, STABILITY AND TEXTURE : Effect of fragrance on emulsion structure - Effect of fragrance on emulsion stability - Effect of fragrance on emulsion texture - EFFECT OF EMULSION MATRIX ON FRAGRANCE PROPERTIES : Chemical stability of fragrance in cosmetic formulations - Effect of matrix composition on fragrance properties - Effect of matrix structure on fragrance properties - Application on skin - Table 1 : Typical formulation of an O/W cosmetic emulsion, inspired from Salk - Table 2 : Composition of a feminine fragrance with a floral scent, from Fernandez and Antoniotti - Table 3 : Chemical structures, solubility parameters, octanol–water and air–water partition coefficients (log P and log Kaw respectively) of some fragrance molecules, from Herma - Table 4 : Physicochemical parameters of studied fragrance molecules - Table 5 : Summary of the effects of emulsion matrix ingredients on fragrance release DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12896 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JoRikUQ9ZQ9MOy8YiKHEVfxdiwmjfI_m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40575 [article]

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L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits / Gloria Portocarrero Huang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 24-38 Titre : L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gloria Portocarrero Huang, Auteur ; Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys, Auteur ; Frank Liebel, Auteur ; Constantina Jones, Auteur ; Coline Haxaire, Auteur ; Lisa DiNatale, Auteur ; Ardeshir Bayat, Auteur ; John R. Glynn, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 24-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Antiâge:Antirides Collagène Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. - Methods : In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46–66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. - Results : In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. - Conclusion : L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro analysis using 3D human skin equivalents - Gene expression from EFT400 3D tissue - Skin fluorescence measurements - In vivo treatments and histological analysis - Split-face clinical study - Firming measurements - Smoothing and wrinkle measurements - Sagging measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : L4 has pronounced effect on skin matrix components in vitro - In vivo histological analysis confirms the efficacy of L4 on epidermal and dermal components - L4 improves clinical benefits on firming, smoothing, wrinkles and sagging versus base formula after 28 days DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12887 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YZrxPHlli-4T7bMqlG6M8KHb9zQX9hMh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40576 [article]

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Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder / Greta Camilla Magnano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 39-50 Titre : Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Greta Camilla Magnano, Auteur ; Giovanna Marussi, Auteur ; Matteo Crosera, Auteur ; Dritan Hasa, Auteur ; Gianpiero Adami, Auteur ; Nicola Lionetti, Auteur ; Francesca Larese Filon, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 39-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Franz, Cellules de Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières Métaux lourds Nickel Le nickel est un élément chimique, de symbole Ni et de numéro atomique 28. Le nickel est un métal blanc argenté qui possède un éclat poli. Il fait partie du groupe du fer. C'est un métal ductile (malléable). On le trouve sous forme combinée au soufre dans la millérite, à l'arsenic dans la nickéline. Grâce à sa résistance à l'oxydation et à la corrosion, il est utilisé dans les pièces de monnaie, pour le plaquage du fer, du cuivre, du laiton, dans certaines combinaisons chimiques et dans certains alliages. Il est ferromagnétique, et est fréquemment accompagné de cobalt. Il est particulièrement apprécié pour les alliages qu'il forme. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration cutanée Poudres métalliques Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Barrier creams (BCs) are marketed as locally applied medical devices or cosmetic products to protect the skin from exposure to chemicals and irritants. Generally, the mechanism of action of such products is mainly due to the formation of a superficial thin film between the skin and the irritant or sensitizer, thus reducing or totally blocking the cutaneous penetration of such agents. Specifically, studies focusing on the effectiveness of commercial protective creams to prevent nickel cutaneous penetration are extremely scarce. The aim of the current work, therefore, is to evaluate the protective role of a commercially available barrier cream for nickel and compare the results with a simple moisturizing, following exposure to Ni powder. - Methods : Marketed BCs were evaluated and tested. Human skin absorption of Ni was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells. - Results : Our results demonstrate that the application of both formulations caused a reduction of Ni inside the skin (8.00 ± 3.35 μg cm−2 for the barrier cream and 22.6 ± 12.6 μg cm−2 for the general moisturizing product), with the specialized barrier cream being statistically (p = 0.015) more efficient on forming a protective barrier, thus evidencing the importance of some ingredients in such formulations on the nickel dermal accumulation. - Conclusions : The composition of the formulations based on film-forming or chelating agents may play an imperative role in reducing the cutaneous penetration of Ni. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Formulation - Preparation of nickel powder in synthetic sweat solution - Skin samples preparation - Skin digestion after the experiment - Analytical measurements - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Nickel quantification in donor solutions - Skin permeation of nickel - In vitro skin penetration of nickel - Calculation of full absorbed amount recovered - Table 1 : Composition of the tested formulations - Table 2 : Ni amounts found in receptor fluid (RF) - Table 3 : Ni amount found in skin layers in blanks and exposed skin after 24 h exposure. - Table 4 : Full absorbed and recovered amount (Qabs) of Ni after 24 h exposure to Ni powder DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12893 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gSlZOfXLm-Tl6ZnNp-bLdgXBhd1uTQX8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40577 [article]

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NEOS : An odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry / Plinio A. Barbosa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) Titre : NEOS : An odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Plinio A. Barbosa, Auteur ; Thaís Bellintani Semenzim, Auteur ; Lucas Murrins Marques, Auteur ; Alexandre Luiz de Oliveira Serpa, Auteur ; Elise Yoshimine, Auteur ; Patricia Tobo, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emotions -- Mesure Odorat Parfums Sentiments Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This work proposes an odour-induced affect scale for use in the cosmetic industry that relies on the approach that produced the UniGEOS, a universal odour-related emotional scale from the Swiss Center for Affective Sciences. The Natura Emotion and Odor Scale (NEOS) was built on experiments conducted with a larger set of participants (491) and a set of 35 scents that combine seven commercial perfumes from Natura & Co cosmetic company with 28 odours from different olfactory classes important for the cosmetic industry. The results showed the stability of 60 Emotion-Related terms in Brazilian Portuguese split into five emotion-related dimensions: Romance, Attention, Energy, Well-being and Negative feelings. The association of the scents evoking these five dimensions has direct implications in the design of new products. Note de contenu : - GOALS - METHODS : Participants - Emotion-related terms - Odours - Experiment - Statistical analyses - RESULTS - DISCUSSION : The scale and its uses - Table 1 : 1. List of odorants in alphabetical order (code, name), their olfactory classes, and mean (and standard deviation) values for the measures of pleasantness and familiarity - Table 2 : Factor loading from EFA and E-MIRT. Items in the first columns are the codes for the ERTs that can be verified in the Appendix S1 - Table 3 : Reliability index for each factor of the final configuration of NEOS DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12894 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YhkUGarHsjtYjYSrfq99aoV2fsODFI1G/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40578 [article]

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Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 62-70 Titre : Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 62-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides ribonucléique Âge Bactéries Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Levures (botanique) Microbiote cutané shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human scalp is characterized by a moderately diverse microbial community, comprising prokaryotic (bacteria) and eukaryotic (fungi) members. Although the details are far from being fully understood, the human scalp microbiota is implicated in several scalp disorders, in particular dandruff formation. Hence, the protection of an intact and diverse scalp microbiota can be regarded as a quality criterion for hair and scalp care formulations. In this study, we investigated the influence of two commercially available, non-antimicrobial shampoo formulations on the structure of the scalp microbiota. - Methods : Scalp microbiota samples, obtained by swab sampling from two cohorts of probands (n = 25, each), were analysed before and after daily use of two different shampoo formulations for 2 weeks, respectively. A polyphasic approach was used, comprising quantitative cultivation of bacteria and fungi on selective media as well as sequencing of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA and 18S rRNA genes, respectively. - Results : All analyses revealed a microbiota composition typical for the human scalp. While in particular fungal germ numbers increased significantly during the treatments, overall bacterial and fungal community composition was not affected, based on alpha- and beta-diversity measures. However, we observed an increase in structural bacterial diversity with the age of the probands. - Conclusions : Over an application period of 2 weeks, the investigated shampoo induced quantitative but no qualitative changes in the scalp microbial community structure of the investigated probands, suggesting no adverse but rather preserving or even stimulating effects of the underlying formulations on the scalp microbiota. Further investigation will have to clarify if this is also true for longer application periods and if the formulations might affect community functionality, for example microbial gene expression, rather than community composition. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Application study and scalp sampling - Microbiological cell counts - DNA extraction for molecular analyses - Library preparation and sequencing - Bioinformatical and statistical analyses - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Sequencing data and general microbial community composition - Factors influencing microbial community composition - Table 1 : INCI list of the used shampoo formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12895 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15s-ZDMAWc8OzdyvN0HdKGUiGQoIuXn5t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40579 [article]

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Sunscreens can preserve human skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure / Rolf Schuetz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 71-84 Titre : Sunscreens can preserve human skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf Schuetz, Auteur ; Joshua Claypool, Auteur ; Riccardo Sfriso, Auteur ; Vollhardt Juergen H., Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 71-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Justification de l'allégation Microbiologie Microbiote cutané Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau noire -- Physiologie Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a known environmental key factor for premature skin ageing. Only few scientific evidence is available to support the effects of UVR on the skin microbiome. This in vivo pilot study aimed to evaluate the impact on the skin microbiome upon erythemal UV exposure and the protection of UV-exposed skin microbiome by UV filters. - Methods : Ten female volunteers were treated with an sun protection factor (SPF) 20 sunscreen and placebo formulation (without UV filters) on their upper middle backs and irradiated with an erythemal dose (2 MED) by a solar simulator. Skin swabbing samples from four zones (i.e., unexposed, exposed, sunscreen- and placebo-treated on exposed skin) were collected for the microbiome analysis before and 2 h after UV exposure, respectively, and processed via shallow 16S rRNA Amplicon and Shotgun metagenomic sequencing. An in vitro UV method was developed to confirm the protection of isolated bacterial strains by single UV filters and combinations. - Results : Alpha diversity was impacted by significant inter-individual differences and by treatment rather than by irradiation. Cutibacterium acnes was found to be the most abundant and a confounding factor for diversity. On a species level, Lactobacillus crispatus was negatively associated with UVR and placebo treatment, whereas there was a positive association with sunscreen treatment. The sunscreen treatment also favoured an interaction network with central Micrococcus genus. The in vitro results showed that both single UV filters and combinations had specific effects on the survival rates of L. crispatus, C. acnes, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. - Conclusion : We identified potential microorganisms and bacterial interactions that were associated with an SPF 20 sunscreen treatment. The specific protection of L. crispatus as a key player in the UV-exposed skin microbiome and reduction of C. acnes population by UV filters might lead to new cosmetic concepts for photoprotection. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Clinical test products - Human study design - Skin microbiome sampling - DNA extraction - 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing - Illumina shotgun sequencing and data processing - Alignment-based filtering (Illumina) - Canonical correspondence analysis (CCA) - Songbird - Spiec-Easi : Microbial interactions - In vitro UV model - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Clinical study results - 16S sequencing results - Diversity - Differential ranking analysis - Interaction network - Metagenomics - In vitro UV model with isolated bacteria DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12910 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17ySV5EMMh2OIbzqRLOQowy6BGvVyGcWk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40580 [article]

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Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function / Juliana Rodrigues Pinto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 85-95 Titre : Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Juliana Rodrigues Pinto, Auteur ; Silas Arandas Monteiro e Silva, Auteur ; Gislaine Ricci Leonardi, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 85-95 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Butylène glycol Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Glycérine Le glycérol, ou glycérine, est un composé chimique de formule HOH2C–CHOH–CH2OH. C'est un liquide incolore, visqueux et inodore au goût sucré, utilisé dans de nombreuses compositions pharmaceutiques. Sa molécule possède trois hydroxyles correspondant à trois fonctions alcool responsables de sa solubilité dans l'eau et de sa nature hygroscopique. Un résidu glycérol constitue l'articulation centrale de tous les lipides de la classe des triglycérides et des phosphoglycérides. PROPRIETES PHYSIQUES : Le glycérol se présente sous la forme d'un liquide transparent, visqueux, incolore, inodore, faiblement toxique si ingéré (mais laxatif à haute dose), au goût sucré. Le glycérol peut se dissoudre dans les solvants polaires grâce à ses trois groupes hydroxyles. Il est miscible dans l'eau et l'éthanol ; et insoluble dans le benzène, le chloroforme et le tétrachlorométhane. Son affinité avec l'eau le rend également hygroscopique, et du glycérol mal conservé (hors dessicateur ou mal fermé) se dilue en absorbant l'humidité de l'air. - PROPRIETES CHIMIQUES : Dans les organismes vivants, le glycérol est un composant important des glycérides (graisses et huiles) et des phospholipides. Quand le corps utilise les graisses stockées comme source d'énergie, du glycérol et des acides gras sont libérés dans le sang. - DESHYDRATATION : La déshydratation du glycérol est faite à chaud, en présence d'hydrogénosulfite de potassium (KHSO3) et produit de l'acroléine - ESTERIFICATION : L'estérification du glycérol conduit à des (mono, di ou tri) glycérides. - AUTRES PROPRIETES : Le glycérol a un goût sucré de puissance moitié moindre que le saccharose, son pouvoir sucrant est de 0,56-0,64 à poids égal13. Le glycérol a des propriétés laxatives et diurétiques faibles. Comme d'autres composés chimiques, tels que le benzène, son indice de réfraction (1,47) est proche de celui du verre commun (~1,50), permettant de rendre "invisibles" des objets en verre qui y seraient plongés. Humectants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Plan d'expérience Produits hydratants Propanediol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This study aimed to assess the effect of 1,3-propanediol at different concentrations (5%, 10%, or 15%), either applied alone or in combination with butylene glycol (BG) (5%) and/or glycerol (5%), on skin hydration and skin barrier function. The measurements were conducted using capacitance to determine skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) rates to evaluate skin barrier function. - Methods : A total of 30 healthy female subjects participated in the study. Capacitance and TEWL measurements were conducted at multiple time points, including before application and at 15 min, 2 and 8 h after the humectants were applied to the forearms of the subjects. All the subjects provided written informed consent. - Results : The 1,3-propanediol in all concentrations and in all combinations (with BG and/or glycerol) increased skin hydration and improved skin barrier function 15 min, 2 and 8 h after application. Glycerol increased the hydration performance of 1,3-propanediol. The application of 1,3-propanediol at a concentration of 15%, either alone or in combination with other humectants, reduced the TEWL to a greater extent than lower concentrations of 1,3-propanediol. Furthermore, the addition of glycerol to 1,3-propanediol 15% improved the skin barrier and reduced TEWL when compared with 1,3-propanediol alone and with the combination of 1,3-propanediol + BG. - Conclusion : The humectants significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL throughout the 8-h time course. The increase in 1,3-propanediol concentration, as well as its combination with glycerol, provided a greater benefit to the skin, improving both hydration and the skin barrier function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS Study population and ethical approval - Test humectants - Equipment - Experimental design - Acclimatization condition - Bio-instrumental evaluation - Safety assessment - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Skin hydration : Skin barrier - Safety assessment - Table 1 : List of humectants evaluated in the study - Table 2 : The percentage increase in skin hydration due to the addition of humectants, relative to the baseline capacitance measurement obtained prior to the application of the humectants - Table 3 : The percentage decrease in skin trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) due to the addition of humectants, relative to the baseline TEWL measurement obtained prior to the application of the humectants DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12911 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pQwX1dvQBSEakuqzeING14r7A88bFIst/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40581 [article]

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Water in cosmetics and Caenorhabditis elegans as an alternative model for lifespan assessment / Myriam Richaud in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 96-105 Titre : Water in cosmetics and Caenorhabditis elegans as an alternative model for lifespan assessment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Richaud, Auteur ; Sarah Rasasombat, Auteur ; Pierre Cuq, Auteur ; Simon Galas, Auteur ; Gilberte Marti-Mestres, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 96-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caenorhabditis elegans Caenorhabditis elegans (C. elegans en abrégé) est un petit ver d'un millimètre environ, transparent et non parasitaire. C'est un nématode de la famille des Rhabditidae. Ce ver est devenu un organisme modèle en biologie, car il permet l'étude, entre autres, de l'apoptose (mort programmée de certaines cellules), du développement embryonnaire et du vieillissement. C. elegans est un organisme modèle dans l’étude génétique. Il est, notamment, très utilisé en raison de sa transparence, son court cycle de reproduction (3,5 jours) ainsi que sa grande facilité de manipulation. (Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Eau Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Justification de l'allégation Longévité Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Water, often considered a fundamental component of life, is the most commonly used ingredient in the formulation of dermocosmetic products, with waterless products being the exception. Dermocosmetic products can contain anywhere from 50% to 85% water, which contributes to their texture and specific characteristics. The chemical composition of water varies depending on its origin and can be categorized as highly mineralized or low mineralized. These compositions could impact the water's efficacy in anti-aging applications. In this study, the objective is evaluating the anti-aging properties of highly and low mineralized water with the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans. - Methods : In this article, we employed the alternative model organism C. elegans to assess the impact of 5 branded waters, one physiological water and one ultra-pure water on the model's lifespan, using the survival medium conventionally used for C. elegans as a comparison. Results Waters may have either a positive or a negative impact on the C. elegans lifespan expectancy. Our results indicate that only one of the water brands we assessed (Volvic®) had a significantly positive effect on worm longevity. In contrast, we found that two other brands (Hepar® and Contrex®) had a negative impact on the later stages of the worm's adulthood. Furthermore, we demonstrated that the impact of the brand water samples on lifespan expectancy varied depending on their physicochemical composition, in particular when ion concentrations were most extreme. - Conclusion : This study shows that the highly mineralized waters studied have a detrimental effect on the survival of C. elegans, and a preliminary test with ultra-pure water could not be completed due to its deleterious effect on the worms. This suggests the hypothesis that both highly mineralized and completely demineralized waters may not be the most suitable for skin formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Worm culture - Lifespan experiments - RESULTS : The C. elegans lifespan can be modified by waters - Positive impact on longevity - No impact or negative impact on longevity - The brand water composition may explain the observed impact variations on the C. elegans longevity - Table 1 : Ionic composition of studied waters - Table 2 : Water-dependent lifespan modulation of Caenorhabditis elegans DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12912 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q-bvwSkh2k-GOsjoauTNVNR64G2AK0lW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40582 [article]

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Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties / Ping Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 106-118 Titre : Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ping Li, Auteur ; Tongtong Zhang, Auteur ; Shizhi Zhao, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 106-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrolysats de protéines Pénétration capillaire shampooings Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Transparence (optique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. - Methods : The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. - Results : The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. - Conclusion : The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization - Foaming performance test - Evaluation of hair grooming performance - Evaluation of hair penetration performance - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Basic formulation framework of transparent silicone-free shampoo - Non-sulphate surfactants - Hair conditioners - Thickeners - Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing protein conditioners - Morphology - Hair grooming performance - Hair penetration performance - Table 1 : Summary of the major proteins - Table 2 : The proportion of the compound proteins in the shampoo formulation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12913 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DC7FNx60wr6uWZ6YD7H0V1cMvlH3O21f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40583 [article]

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The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D-Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications / Shaher Duchi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 119-129 Titre : The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D-Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shaher Duchi, Auteur ; Paloma Rebollo Torregrosa, Auteur ; Akram Hajuj, Auteur ; Danit Molho, Auteur ; Rawya Shkoor, Auteur ; Nadeen Abo Saada, Auteur ; David González Fernández, Auteur ; Danny Goldstein, Auteur ; Alejandro Pérez-Fernández, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 119-129 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Génétique kératines La kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse. La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules. La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine. Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence. Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil. (Wikipedia) Mélanine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To develop and evaluate the efficacy of WS Biotin, a novel water-soluble form of D-Biotin, for cosmetic use. - Methods : A new encapsulated form of D-Biotin was developed with the purpose of improving the water solubility of biotin. This novel form of encapsulated biotin was characterized by its physicochemical properties: particle size, D-Biotin content and solubility in water. Also, proliferation and gene expression in vitro tests in cell culture were performed to evaluate its effectiveness in promoting hair growth, an ELISA test was conducted for hair keratinization and skin lightening property was tested by analysing the intracellular melanin content. - Results : The developed WS Biotin microcapsules exhibit a particle size range of 2–30 μm with D-Biotin content of ~50% (w/w). The water solubility of WS Biotin was found to be 20-fold greater than free biotin. The obtained in vitro results indicated that WS Biotin enhances the expression of hair-related keratins in hair follicle keratinocytes, as well as the expression of hair growth-promoting genes in dermal papilla cells. Moreover, the melanin content in UVA-exposed epidermal melanocytes was reduced upon exposure to WS Biotin. - Conclusion : In this work, a novel form of encapsulated biotin, WS Biotin, was developed in order to improve the water solubility of free biotin and was found to be effective for cosmetic use in both hair and skin applications. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of WS Biotin - Determination of D-Biotin content, entrapment efficacy and yield - Size and morphological characterization - Solubility test - Cell culture - Cell viability - Cell proliferation - Quantification of hair keratins - Gene expression of hair growth-related growth factors - Melanin quantification - RESULTS : Determination of D-Biotin content, entrapment efficacy and yield - WS Biotin powder characterization - WS Biotin water solubility test - Characterization of the cytotoxicity profile of WS Biotin in different in vitro models - Influence of biotin WS in the proliferation of hair follicle keratinocytes - WS Biotin promotes the expression of hair shaft keratins - Modulation of hair growth-related genes by WS Biotin - Whitening potential of WS Biotin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12914 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmKumJh5Vc7WU_OMGRPe3E4Dt9eZdDz4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40584 [article]

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Hair relaxation after shaping - A kinetic approach / S. Breakspear in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 130-141 Titre : Hair relaxation after shaping - A kinetic approach Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Breakspear, Auteur ; B. Noecker, Auteur ; C. Popescu, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 130-141 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cinétique chimique Fibre capillaire Traitement chimique Traitement thermique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair fibres have been shaped via either a thermal route or via a chemical route. The time-relaxation transients of the shaped hairs in air, and in water, respectively, were evaluated. The collected data were kinetically modelled in order to reveal information about the rate controlling mechanism of the recovery process. - Methods : Hair fibres were thermally shaped at different temperatures between heated plates and left to relax in an environment of controlled humidity and temperature. Different hair fibres were chemically shaped and left to relax in water of different controlled temperatures. Relaxation data were used for modelling the kinetics of the recovery processes by using exponential and logarithmic kinetic laws. The fitting of the models to the two sets of data has been checked by using the residual sum of squares for matching the proper model to each set of data. - Results : The processes of shaping and recovery were assimilated with a sequence of two successive quasi-chemical reactions, occurring at the used temperatures. Based on chemical and physical assumptions, the two groups of experiments were modelled by two different laws: an exponential law, suggesting a first-order process as the rate-determining step of the relaxation of thermally shaped fibres, and a logarithmic law, suggesting a slow relaxation, based on percolation theory, for the chemically shaped fibres. This allowed use of chemical kinetics tools for calculating the values of the activation energy in each case. The evaluated values of activation energy of the relaxation processes for both thermal and chemical shaping were found to be close to each other, in spite of the different methods of shaping. - Conclusion : The kinetic analysis suggests that despite different reaction sequences occurring during the different shaping-relaxation processes, the rate-controlling mechanism that manages the recovery process is the same in all cases; and this process is proposed to be the thiol-disulphide reformation of intra-protein bonds inside hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Thermal shaping - Recovery after thermal shaping - Chemical shaping - Recovery after chemical shaping - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Thermodynamics of the process - Kinetics of the process - Comparing the kinetic models DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12915 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y6BmSuu9yC_4Ib2IwMEYCVmJHxNTmQz_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40585 [article]

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Investigating the impact of sebum secretion on liquid makeup foundation darkening and its solution / Qi Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 142-152 Titre : Investigating the impact of sebum secretion on liquid makeup foundation darkening and its solution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Qi Zhang, Auteur ; Gang Chen, Auteur ; Yifan Hou, Auteur ; Sijing Wang, Auteur ; Qianru Xia, Auteur ; Jing Yu, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 142-152 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dispersions et suspensions Fond de teint Formulation (Génie chimique) Maquillage Noircissement Pigments Sébum Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Darkening has been an issue of concern for foundation products. The secretion of sebum plays a significant role in the process of foundation darkening, but the underlying mechanisms and solutions have been rarely reported. The aim of this study was to explore the relationship between sebum secretion and liquid foundation darkening and to provide possible solutions for reducing sebum-induced darkening in liquid foundation. - Methods : Artificial sebum in different concentrations was added to a basic liquid foundation to simulate different stages of sebum secretion. The colour of the mixture was then measured by a spectrophotometer on the standard opacity chart. Potential technical solutions for anti-darkening were applied to a basic liquid foundation, and its ability to anti-darkening was further verified in vivo. - Results : (1) The influences of sebum addition on liquid foundation darkening had a significant positive correlation with the increase in transmissivities (R2 = 0.852, p < 0.01). (2) A certain range of sebum addition can reduce the darkening of volatile foundations. (3) The liquid foundations using pigments with high dispersibility in sebum were less influenced by sebum. (4) The replacement of pigments with oil-fixing ability could effectively reduce the darkening of liquid foundations induced by sebum (p < 0.01). - Conclusion : The effect of sebum on the darkening of liquid foundation was accompanied by a greater transmissivity as its pigment concentration decreased. Balanced volatility, the addition of powders with higher sebum dispersibility and the replacement of oil-fixing powders could reduce the darkening of the liquid foundation caused by sebum secretion. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Equipment and materials - Preparation of basic liquid foundation - Preparation of artificial sebum - In vitro study - Volatility test - Dispersion test - Oil-fixing ability test - In vivo test - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of sebum-induced increase in transmissivity on the darkening of basic liquid foundation - Effect of sebum supplementation on the darkening of volatile liquid foundation - Effect of the dispersion of pigments in sebum on the darkening of liquid foundation induced by sebum secretion - Effect of pigments with different oil-fixing abilities on the darkening of basic foundation induced by sebum secretion - Development of an anti-darkening foundation for oily skin - Table 1 : Specific information on titanium dioxide and zinc oxide - Table 2 : The formula of the basic liquid foundation - Table 3 : The L* of standard opacity chart and basic liquid foundation - Table 4 : The volatile substances of different liquid foundation samples - Table 5 : Turbidity of different pigments - Table 6 : The description of the coefficients of the fitted curves - Table 7 : Volume of oil fixation by different zinc oxide powders and titanium dioxide. Data are represented as mean±SD (n=3) - Table 8 : The formula of in vivo liquid foundation. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12939 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13jOy971IsBuXbPu2twuvwx4S4rnz8SGf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40586 [article]

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