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Cosmetics as essential everyday companions - the psychological and physical relevance of cosmetic products for people / Hannah Neibecker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 2-12 Titre : Cosmetics as essential everyday companions - the psychological and physical relevance of cosmetic products for people Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hannah Neibecker, Auteur ; Ines Imdahl, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Consommateurs -- Préférences Consommation -- Aspect psychologique Cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The importance of cosmetic products for people takes centre stage in this in-depth psychological-representative study. Six relevant motives for use show how essential the products surveyed, such as toothpaste, deodorant, fragrance, face care, shower gel, body care, shaving and beard care, decorative cosmetics, nail polish are for people, more particularly, also in their diversity. People perceive cosmetic products as cultivating, socially relevant, expressing values, individualising, structuring in everyday life and rejuvenating. All this contributes towards people not being able to imagine life without the products used by them and that without them, they feel drastically restricted in their self-determination, self-realisation and self-esteem. Overall, it was possible to prove that cosmetics have more than just a superficial influence on the human condition. The respondents found that all the products they use are very important. Each product is psychologically relevant in its meaning – often also in its different forms of presentation. This is because products are expected to meet diverse customer needs. The demands on the products have even increased. Because products are less and less often used in an inexperienced and unquestioned manner. More and more often, people are looking for the best possible alternative and want further specifications and offers. A wide variety of consistencies, fragrances, sizes, packaging formats for different skin types, phases of life as well as seasons and times of day is essential for almost all respondents. In addition to product performance and tolerability, sustainability is another increasingly important factor, although this was not the focus of the survey. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY - RESULTS : General motives for the use and areas of relevance of cosmetic products - Physical and psychological relevance of the product areas - Importance of product diversity and differentiating offers - Fig. 1 : Sample composition of the qualitative interview - Fig. 2 : Rotation plan for the inverviews - Fig. 3 : Sample composition of the representative survey - Fig. 4 : Overarching motives for the use of cosmetics - Fig. 5 : Relevance of toothpaste - Fig. 6 : Relevance of fragrance/perfume - Fig. 7 : Relevance of face care - Fig. 8 : Relevance of body care - Fig. 9 : Relevance of shaving/beard care - Fig. 10 : Relevance of decorative cosmetics - Fig. 11 : Relevance of nail polish - Fig. 12 : Frequency of use of cosmetic products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J7tH0wvQjzqMSjHBtBJDA8hN_X_QY18B/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37189 [article]

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Ease stress - But quickly, please / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 14-19 Titre : Ease stress - But quickly, please Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Antiâge:Antirides Aromathérapie Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Huiles essentielles Hydratation Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Peau -- Soins et hygiène Récepteurs sensoriels Stress -- Médecines alternatives Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The positive effect of aromatherapy on humans has been known for a long time. The effect is essentially based on the stimulation of the olfactory receptors in the nose. Certain smells have a relaxing and stress-reducing effect. Recent research has shown that the skin also has olfactory receptors and even bitter receptors that can be activated with appropriate molecules. In the keratinocytes, differentiation and maturation are thus stimulated via an induced influx of calcium. Here we show how a cosmetic active ingredient with a pleasant fragrance profile both reduces stress, detected by measuring stress hormones, and positively influences the skin by activating bitter receptors. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : From functional gragrances to active ingredients with a scent - The nose and tongue of the skin - Olfactory receptors - Taste receptor - MATERIALS AND METHODS - RESULTS : Fatty acids - Essential oil and scenting compounds - Calcium mobilization in keratinocytes - In-vivo stress leve ldetermination - Skin hydration - TEWL - Wrinkle reduction - Fig. 1 : Odor sensation in olfactory cells and keratinocytes are similar - Fig. 2 : Taste receptors act in a cAMP-independent way to open internal calcium stores of keratinocytes En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SyMmSPF-_zyKpRM5vaWh09S5WQoTNbIH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37190 [article]

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Boosting emotional wellbeing with turmeric stem cells in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 20-24 Titre : Boosting emotional wellbeing with turmeric stem cells Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Cellules souches végétales Cosmétiques Curcuma et constituants Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Hydratation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Régénération (biologie) Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In several studies, it has been shown that stress has a harmful impact on our skin health and general appearance that includes skin dryness, increase of wrinkles, and more serious conditions, such as psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. The plant-based ingredient Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Callus Lysate is a 100% natural multi-active from Turmeric stem cells that fights the damage of skin derived from suffering stress, improving stress wrinkles, working as an emotional wellbeing manager, enhancing skin hydration and acting as a modulator of the brain-skin connection. Various in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo tests were carried out to demonstrate the efficacy of the plant stem cell active ingredient. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Emotions and psychosocial stress of the skin - Turmeric : a powerful active on the brain-skin connection - PLANT STEM CELLS RICH IN STRESS RELATED FACTORS - IN VITRO TEST : Anti-inflammatory activity in human monocytes (THP-1) - Antioxidant activity - Regenerative properties ( scratch test) - EX VIVO STUDIES : Protection effect of cortisol-stresses skin explants (biochemically induced stress) - Regenerative activity on punch biopsies (significant physical stress) - Test in psoriatic and atopic dermatitis skin explants (extreme physiological stress) - Psoriatic skin biopsies - Skin biopsies with atopic dermatitis - CLINICAL EVALUATION : Evaluation of the emotional hydration effect - Evaluation of anti-stress wrinkles En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gaa2iQhKzMrQrh1Gyq3AFgZvi81q83Gl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37191 [article]

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Natural and multi-purpose beauty solution / Sabilla Digel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Natural and multi-purpose beauty solution : Phospholipids are all-rounders with proven cosmetic benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabilla Digel, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques Lécithine La phosphatidylcholine est plus connue sous le nom lécithine. Au sens le plus strict, la lécithine désigne uniquement les phosphatidylcholines c'est-à-dire un lipide formé à partir d'une choline, d'un phosphate, d'un glycérol et de deux acides gras (figure). Dans ce contexte, il serait plus juste de parler des lécithines, car il ne s'agit pas d'une seule molécule mais d'un groupe dont la composition en acide gras varie d'une molécule à l'autre. Ainsi, les lécithines vont adopter diverses couleurs selon leur composition : du jaune, pour la lécithine végétale, au brun, pour la lécithine de poisson. Le terme de lécithine est aussi utilisé par extension pour désigner l'ensemble des phospholipides extraits du vivant (par exemple le soja), dans la mesure où ils sont majoritairement constitués de phosphatidylcholine. Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phospholipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When taking a closer look at nature, it quickly becomes apparent that lecithin is omnipresent : from plants and animals to human beings, there is no life without this essential agent. Lecithin is the collective term for mixtures of phospholipids and (in many cases) other lipids. Our endogenous cells are surrounded by a cell membrane that is largely composed of phospholipids, which means it occurs naturally in our bodies. It can also be obtained industrially from plants such as soy, sunflower and rapeseed, as well as egg yolk. Before diving into the complex field of lecithin applications, it is important to know that not all lecithin is the same. It has numerous and varied qualities suitable for a broad range of applications, both as an active ingredient and functional substance. Its use is therefore favoured by the cosmetics, food, pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements and animal feed industries. This article is about lecithin fractions, i.e. lecithin containing a high proportion of phosphatidylcholine and their applications in cosmetics. Note de contenu : - HIGH-QUALITY APPROACH : SOME BASIC FACTS - DIFFERENT FORMS - DIFFERENT FUNCTIONS : Normalizing acne-prone skin - linoleic acid donor - Strengthened skin barrier - ceramide precursor - Providing actives - Liposome precursor - Diffusin into the skin - penetration enhancer - Firm and smooth - anti-ageing active - Perfectly hydrated - moisturizer - Soothing and healing - anti-inflammatory active - Pleasant skin feel - sensory enhancer - Natural shine - hair conditioning - Counteracting water loss - TEWL stabilising - Well balanced - emulsion stabilising - Smooth results - texture and sensory enhancement - Caring colours - surface treatment - NATURAL, SAFE AND FUTURE-PROOF - Fig. 1 : Composition of standard lecithin - Fig. 2 : Structure of phospholipids - Fig. 3 : Reduced soaping effect of an O/W cream with 2.5% cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside as primary emulsifier - Table 1 : Functions of lecithin fractions in cosmetics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OML8rjFC5DQXyiEuLvaQ9rvjEdyB5Iij/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37192 [article]

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Sustainable & long-lasting : Natural cosmetics made from purely plant-based ingredients / Arielle Springer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 32-34 Titre : Sustainable & long-lasting : Natural cosmetics made from purely plant-based ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arielle Springer, Auteur ; Elisabeth Destler, Auteur ; B. Pazurik, Auteur ; M. Platzer, Auteur ; Sandra Kiese, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 32-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Should personal care products be sustainable or have a long shelf-life ? Preferably both. Natural cosmetics are gaining in popularity due to the increased awareness of sustainability and naturalness. In contrast, there are potential quality limitations that discourage some consumers from buying certified natural cosmetic products. The use of natural oils and plant antioxidants could be the solution for both aspects. This could be beneficial for raw material and product manufacturing companies as well as for consumers. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C-YkayM-7N56E_z9mDFvUDIHdWmXOuAF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37193 [article]

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Smarter. Faster. Better / Anne Wagner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 36-38 Titre : Smarter. Faster. Better Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 36-38 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Assurance qualité Bonnes pratiques de fabrication Cosmétiques Environnement -- Surveillance Procédés de fabrication Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Unlike the pharmaceutical industry, personal and home care product manufacturing sites are not required by regulatory agencies to establish comprehensive quality systems and Environmental Monitoring (EM) programs, which measure the state of control of their manufacturing and ensure data integrity. How can you ensure product quality if you aren’t in control of your manufacturing environment ? In personal and home care product manufacturing, your company is responsible for the microbiological quality of the manufacturing environment and data integrity. Note de contenu : - Why perform environmental monitoring ? - The importance of accurate identifications - The consequencees of using outdated methods - How can charles river laboratories help you ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MPta3zQ_9HmZh3CXF4rY5ObY5JvlrwLU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37194 [article]

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Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside / Sebastian Johannes Beckers in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 3 (03/2022) . - p. 40-44 Titre : Fact and fancy about lamellar emulsions - A closer look inside Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sebastian Johannes Beckers, Auteur ; Achim Friedrich, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 40-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Ester de polyglycérol Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Stabilisants (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Motivated by the hype about lamellar emulsions, we wanted to take a closer look at the microstructure of modern cosmetic emulsions stabilized by polyglycerol ester emulsifiers. Previously, we have developed a structure model of an emulsion stabilized by a polyglycerol ester emulsifier and consistency enhancers by using a number of highly specialized (e.g. scattering) methods. According to these results, the oil droplets are surrounded by several, irregularly spaced bilayers consisting of emulsifier and consistency enhancer. We now have extended this work to four alternative polyglycerol ester emulsifiers by using Cryo-TEM to study the microstructure of model emulsions. In none of the cases there was evidence for areas of stacked bilayers, i.e. a lamellar phase or multilamellar vesicles, which could be recognized by birefringence (e.g. Maltese crosses) in polarization microcopy if they were present. Such lamellar phases or multilamellar vesicles can be generated by overdosing the emulsifier, or could be a consequence of incomplete mixing. Therefore, polarization microcopy results can hardly be an indication for superior application performance and should not be confused with claim substantiation. Note de contenu : - What are "lamellar emulsions" ? - Molecular architecture determines the types of surfactant aggregate - What are "lamellar emulsions" ? - A deep dive into the structure of o/w-emulsions - How general are these findings ? - Table 1 : Composition of the model formulations used En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JL2FPEpk72Y5haOaLVqKS2Bg25aOCO7z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37195 [article]

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