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Effective soil release & bio-based - First of its kind for laundry detergents / Kevin J. Mutch in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Effective soil release & bio-based - First of its kind for laundry detergents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kevin J. Mutch, Auteur ; Fabrizio Mazzeo, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Biopolymères Détergents Détergents -- Biodégradation Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : As more and more consumers look for environmentally friendly laundry products but demands for effective washing performance remain high, detergent producers face the dilemma of how to increase the renewable carbon content without compromising on stain removal, extended clothing life and fabric preservation. To provide support in tackling these aspects, Clariant has focused on fulfilling the gap in the Home Care market for a renewable-based soil release polymer that performs. It introduces the first bio-based, non-synthetically sourced soil release polymer for liquid laundry detergents (INCI: nonionic polyester). TexCare® SRN 260 Life is based on non-tropical raw materials, with a Renewable Carbon index (RCI) of 80 %, and is readily biodegradable. Laboratory soil release and anti-deposition tests to evaluate performance and demonstrate effectiveness were conducted on synthetic-based fabrics. Those washed with liquid laundry detergent containing the novel soil release polymer came out up to six times cleaner than those washed with detergent only. It also prevented the redeposition of dirt during washing, which is the main culprit for graying, almost two times better than a standard detergent alone. The bio-based origin, and outstanding performance in soil release and in building a shield against stains provide unique support for more sustainable laundry products. Note de contenu : - First bio-based soil release polymer - Soil release polymer dynamics on polyester - Performance of bio-based SRP at low concentrations - Materials & assessment methods - a) Improving detergency at low washing temperatures - b) Fiber protection against dirt/soil and-redeposition at low temperatures En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ENpW6EHbUS2Vb4cJ-042Gn6ON2vCor62/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34593 [article]

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Enhancing antimicrobial efficacy of sodium benzoate / Stephen Foster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 8-14 Titre : Enhancing antimicrobial efficacy of sodium benzoate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stephen Foster, Auteur ; Pawel Rempala, Auteur ; Daniel Mueller, Auteur ; Lauren Dornan, Auteur ; Amber Yarnell, Auteur ; Jenna Blankenship, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 8-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Benzoate de sodium Le benzoate de sodium, de formule chimique (Na+ + C6H5COO-)(NaC6H5COO) est le sel de sodium de l'acide benzoïque, connu sous le nom E211 comme additif alimentaire. Soluble à raison de 640 parts pour 1000 d'eau à 25 °C. Il précipite en présence d'un acide concentré (ex.: l'acide sulfurique concentré) en donnant de l'acide benzoïque (très peu soluble dans l'eau) dont on peut analyser plus facilement le point de fusion. Sa dissolution aqueuse engendre une augmentation du pH. L'acide benzoïque est produit industriellement selon 3 voies : 1. Oxydation de naphtalène en anhydride phtalique en présence de catalyseur oxyde de vanadium. L'anhydride phtalique est ensuite décarboxylé produisant l'acide benzoïque. 2. Oxydation d'un mélange de toluène et d'acide nitrique produisant l'acide benzoïque. 3. Hydrolyse du trichlorobenzène produisant l'acide benzoïque. L'acide benzoïque est ensuite dissout dans une solution d'hydroxyde de sodium pour former du benzoate de sodium. Le benzoate de sodium est utilisé comme conservateur alimentaire, autorisé sous condition et référencé en Europe sous le code E211. Détergents Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : In many cleaning product applications in the market place, the inclusion of sodium benzoate as a stand-alone preservative is providing sufficient microbial control. It was observed that inclusion levels are typically lower, resulting in economical use and, consequently, feasibility in a wider pH range of cleaning products compared to what was generally believed. For sodium benzoate to effectively preserve, formulations require sufficient concentrations of the undissociated organic acid, which is benzoic acid. The acid equilibrium constant (pKa) of benzoic acid determines the degree of acid dissociation, and a larger value would result in increased benzoic acid concentrations. Titrations show that in the presence of home care surfactants, the apparent pK’a increases as surfactant concentration increases, indicating a higher concentration of the active substance. This was confirmed with 13CNMR. Microbial challenge testing was performed to verify that the increased apparent pK’a yields increased antimicrobial efficacy. A surfactant was selected to increase the benzoic apparent pK’a with substantial improvements in microbe reductions versus controls. Finally, a theoretical model based on surfactant properties was adopted to explain the observed pK’a increases. This model provides a basis for detailed formulation advice and justification to the enhanced antimicrobial efficacy of Kalaguard® SB sodium benzoate. Note de contenu : - BACKGROUND : Mechanisms for antimicrobial action and pK' a shifts - EXPERIMENTAL : - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Observing increased antimicrobial efficacy - Measuring pK'a with 13CNMR - Modelling apparent pK'a values based on micelle partitioning - Fig. 1 : Microbial counts in colony forming units (CFU) for Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Aspergillus brasiliensis of hand diswash formulation pH 6.0. - Fig. 2 : The apparent pK'a of benzoic acid increased with the concentration of various surfactants - Fig. 3 : 13CNRM chemical shift of the carbon atom within the carboxyl functional group of sodium benzoate/benzoic acid at various pH levels - Fig. 4 : Fraction of undissociated benzoic acid calculated from 13CNMR chemical shift data at various pH - Fig. 5 : Depiction of the equilibrium between base and acid dissolved in water and acid incorporated into the micelle core - Fig. 6 : Graph of apparent pK'a versus LAS concentration from experimentally measured and theoretically derived values from equation 2 - Table 1 : Log reduction of microbes in soy broth at pH 6.5 at 14 days, demonstrating that sodium benzoate combined with SLMI surfactant resulted in greater antimicrobial efficacy - Table 2 : pK'a interpolated from benzoic acid 0.5 molar fraction using 13CNMR data in Fig. 4 - Equation 1 : Determination of benzoic acid dissociation (ionization) degree α from the carboxyl carbon chemical shift - Equation 2 : Apparent pK'a of benzoic acid withsurfactants. For full derivation on details, please contact author En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_JnUEMJ69pY7SlWH5_83hX1UNS7aGWNQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34594 [article]

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Process technologies to optimize detergent manufacturing in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 16-20 Titre : Process technologies to optimize detergent manufacturing Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 16-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biosurfactants Composés organiques -- Synthèse Détergents Granulation Liants Procédés de fabrication Produits commerciaux -- Aspect de l'environnement Pulvérisation Séchage Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : As a manufacturer of consumer goods, the detergent industry must respond to megatrends like no other. One of these drivers is sustainability; eco-friendly biosurfactants have been available since 2009 and, now, alternative complexing agents such as α-ADA or MGDA-Na3 can be produced from renewable raw materials and used to replace phosphates. According to the German Zukunftsinstitut (Future Institute), the neo-ecology megatrend is causing a reorientation of the values of global society, culture and politics and will have a defining impact on the 2020s. Consumers and business partners alike are asking about transparent value creation and whether social aspects are being considered. As an example, seamless traceability has long been standard practice. Yet, the ongoing microplastics debate calls for a rethink when it comes to encapsulated fragrances or when the fibres of functional clothing have to be fished out of wastewater. Solutions for all these requirements can only be realised if the chemical industry and original equipment manufacturers work closely together. Innovative raw materials is one side of the coin ; technological advances in laundry washing is the other ! Note de contenu : - An interplay of forces - Great success from small particles - Ingenious biocatalysts - End product properties : abrasion stability and particles size - Spray granulation brings enzymes into shape - Drying, agglomeration, synthesis - Reactive spray and binder granulation - Playing with atomisation technology - Why anionic surfactants are treated in compartment - Conclusion : size is important ! - Fig. 1 : Influencing factors of materials, process and equipment properties on the particle design - Fig. 2 : Enzyme granulate - Fig. 3&4 : Spray dried enzyme powder/agglomerate and spray granules from an enzyme solution - Fig. 5 : ProCell apparatus for the spouted bed process patented by Glatt (EP 1 638678 B1) - Fig. 6 : Principle of product flow during spouted bed granulation in the Glatt ProCell - Fig. 7 : Reactive spray granulation and reactive binder granulation - Fig. 8 : A nozzle system with annular gas lines ensures that highly reactive solutions do notmix intensively until they reach the spray cone En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11boI1Vs3f7mRRc9vwA0qwykS3RoPowWB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34595 [article]

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HLB - Sense or nonsense ? / Joachim Venzmer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 22-26 Titre : HLB - Sense or nonsense ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 22-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants Emulsions Equilibre hydrophile-lipophile Ethoxylate d'alcool Index. décimale : 541.34 Solutions Résumé : The Hydrophilic/Lipophilic Balance (HLB) concept as introduced by Griffin in 1949 means assigning a single number between 0 and 20 to fatty alcohol ethoxylates in order to describe their hydrophilicity/lipophilicity and assuming that this number is useful to predict the applicability as emulsifier. This approach has severe limitations as it ignores crucial parameters such as temperature, presence of the oil phase, pH, salt, or processing during emulsion manufacturing. However, despite these deficiencies, HLB values are still given today by the surfactant manufacturers in their brochures and product documentations. The only meaningful purpose of the HLB value is that it provides (especially in case it has been determined experimentally) a rough guesstimate of the water solubility or dispersability of an emulsifier. All other properties, often a consequence of the molecular architecture especially of polymeric emulsifiers, cannot be predicted by a single HLB value. This paper critically discusses the limitations of the HLB concept in order to avoid misconceptions, especially when dealing with non-fatty-alcohol-ethoxylate amphiphiles. Note de contenu : - History - Griffin and Davies - Alternative methods to generate HLB values - Benefits of the HLB concept - Examples of success - Limitations of the HLB concept - Examples of failure - Table 1 : HLB values, water solubility and potential uses of surfactants - Table 2 : Comparison of emulsifier efficiency ÿ in an oil/water system with emulsifiers of same calculated HLB, but different molecular architecture (C18PO6EO6 vs. C18EO6PO6). ÿ is defined as the minimal mass fraction of surfactant ÿ = msurfactant / (moil + mwater + msurfactant) which is necessary to form a one-phase microemulsion - Fig. 1 : Contact angle of a 0.1% aqueous solutions of castor oil ethoxylate and a fatty alcohol ethoxylate having the same HLB value of 10 (according to Griffin) on Parafilm (DataPhysics OCA50, 25°C, 50% rel. humidity, droplet volume 3.7 µL; average of at least 8 droplets) - Fig. 2 : Cloud points of two alcohol ethoxylates of identical calculated HLB En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yb8AN69xrkiTCvcyTRmHfoNnCPel72Kt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34596 [article]

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Beauty and the mask - eyes only / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 26-32 Titre : Beauty and the mask - eyes only : How wearing a face mask affects the choice of the right skin care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Masques antimicrobiens Peau -- Soins et hygiène Perte insensible en eau Solutions (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Behavioural changes : Within a very short period of time, wearing a face mask has led women to focus more on the eye area when applying make-up. A survey by the French IFOP showed that 44% of women who regularly used decorative cosmetics no longer put make-up on their lips under the mask. The proportion of women who used make-up daily decreased by half. The trend is now strongly moving towards skin care and wellness at the expense of color cosmetics (Premium Beauty News, July 12, 2020). Surveys in France, Germany and U.K. confirm this. Of those over 55, 46% say they have more often taken up beauty and body care activities to promote their health. Of the 16-34 year olds, 45% say they do this to reduce stress and anxiety. Overall, 59% said that beauty and body care activities were used to have a good time (Mintel survey, 2020). In uncertain times, people want to feel safe and secure. This leads to a strong demand for cosmetics that care for consumers and make them feel good. In other words, products with fragrances and active ingredients that help people to relax and cope better with stress. The personal care industry can respond with more positive and emotional marketing. However, the products must also be effective enough to generate long-term trust and interest, which is very important for emotional products. Note de contenu : - Behavioural changes - What happens above the mask ? - What happens under the mask ? - RAHN offers various cosmetic actives as a solution - SEBOCLEAR TM-MP takes care of the causes of maskne - Fig. 1 : The application of 2 % LIFTONIN®-XPRESS leads to an immediate reduction of wrinkles. In less than a minute - Fig. 2 : After 2 hours of wearing a simple protective mask, the TEWL increases by almost 75% - Fig. 3 : 3 DEFENSIL® maintains control of the skin barrier after irritation with SLS - Fig. 4 : DEFENSIL®-SOFT can reduce skin irritation and discomfort within 3–5 minutes. It prevents heat-related transepidermal water loss, reduces microcirculation and skin redness - Fig. 5 : Single tape stripping simulates a damage of the skin barrier, as one can imagine a mechanical abrasion of corneocytes under a mask - Fig. 6 : SEBOCLEARTM-MP reduces corynebacteria and propionibacteria and promotes healthy skin microflora, recognizable by the reduction of porphyrin-positive pores. It reduces the number of inflamed papules, which can develop into acne pimples when irritated - Formulation : Example of a formulation perfectly designed to strengthen the skin barrier and prevent maskne when wearing face masks En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vED2H2y0eBttiOdg8yzxQ4Sptlmuac_k/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34597 [article]

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Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair / Joachim Müller in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 34-43 Titre : Functional vegan silk - Crafted by white biotechnology to utilise a new way to take care of damaged hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Müller, Auteur ; Natalie Blost, Auteur ; Kristin Nessbach, Auteur ; Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Actifs antidécoloration Biopolymères Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie biomimétique Polypeptides Un polypeptide est une chaîne d'acides aminés reliés par des liaisons peptidiques. On parle de polypeptide lorsque la chaîne contient entre 10 et 100 acides aminés. Au-dessus de 100 acides aminés on parle généralement de protéine. Parmi eux, les peptides multi-cycliques, les peptides phosphorylés ou encore ceux intégrant des liaisons non-peptidiques ou des peptides conjugués. Certains polypeptides constituent une famille d'antibiotiques dont les molécules très toxiques n'en permettent qu'un usage très limité. D'autres s’imposent aujourd’hui comme des éléments essentiels à la mise au point de vaccins ou de principes actifs destinés aux traitements de certaines pathologies telles que les cancers, les déficiences hormonales, l’ostéoporose. Produits vegan Soie et constituants Soie végétale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetics industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been reported that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features. A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the biotechnologically derived vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the surface of the hair. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a valid alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the breaking force as well as to decrease the 3D volume fraction of the damage (x-ray nanotomography) of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a true ecological, natural-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair, thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market. Note de contenu : - THE HAIR STYLING MARKET WILL CONTINUE TO GROW WITH THE RISING CONSUMER DEMAND OF INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Evaluation of Silkgel as protection and hair repair agent - Ex vivo measurements of hair breakage using tensile testing - Hair protection study – thermal protection - Hair repair study – regeneration of thermally and chemically induced damages - RESULTS : Vegan Silk – An excellent protection agent for hair care - Real added value – Silk treatments for hair repair Silk induced repair visualized using x-ray nanotomography - CONCLUSION : Functional vegan silk – Meeting the performance and clean beauty market expectations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17nsR89BCcY2z529gqLJce9TIQ-7Vs1O4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34598 [article]

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Anti-odor properties of sodium bicarbonate assessed by sensory evaluation / Sophie Mouzon in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 44-48 Titre : Anti-odor properties of sodium bicarbonate assessed by sensory evaluation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Mouzon, Auteur ; Jeanne Perez, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 44-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Analyse sensorielle Antiperspirants Bicarbonate de sodium Cosmétiques Evaluation Odeurs -- Lutte contre Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, more and more people are concerned about the safety and carcinogenicity of some components used as antiperspirants inside deodorant formulas, for instance aluminum salts [1]. The consumers are searching for a smooth alternative to this kind of ingredients that would not impede perspiration. SEQENS Mineral Specialties carried out a sensory analysis to compare the anti-odor efficacy of three different formulas of roll-on deodorants: one with sodium bicarbonate, one with anti-odor active and one with placebo. 24 subjects have participated in the study and a trained jury of five people has assessed the perspiration smell intensity, and the hedonic value of the smell 8 and 12 hours after the standardized application. Furthermore, the formulas were hidden (masked review). This study allows to prove scientifically that sodium bicarbonate has efficient anti-odor properties and can be an alternative to antiperspirants for the formulation of deodorants. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Kinetics of the study - Table 2 : Structured scale for perspiration smell intensity - Table 3 : Structured scale for hedonic value of the smell - Table 4 : Scores for perspiration smell intensity 8 and 12 hours after application of the formula - Table 5 : Scores for hedonic value of the smell 8 and 12 hours after application of the formula - Table 6 : Scores for perspiration smell intensity 8 and 12 hours after application of the formula according to ANOVA model - Table 7 : Scores for hedonic value of the smell 8 and 12 hours after application of the formula according to ANOVA model En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JDWYFrVDQkj-71hIOIsSYFamUu8dkmpv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34599 [article]

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Novel pentapeptide enhances skin's natural, healthy glow by boosting MC1R / Dominik Imfeld in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 50-55 Titre : Novel pentapeptide enhances skin's natural, healthy glow by boosting MC1R Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dominik Imfeld, Auteur ; Francesca Pascucci, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 50-55 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Pigmentation de la peau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To address an identified consumer demand for skin care products that can create a natural-looking, lightly suntanned complexion all year round, DSM has been investigating safe means of stimulating skin pigmentation. Its novel pentapeptide Benzoyl Dipeptide-18 D-Phenylalanyl Arginyl D-Tryptophan Diproylamide Mesylate (trading under the name SYN-GLOWâ„¢) has been designed and synthesized to act as a melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) agonist. Its efficacy has been tested in ex-vivo and in-vivo studies which have demonstrated its potential to initiate and enhance skin pigmentation, with long-lasting results. The findings are presented here. Note de contenu : - A lightly tanned complexion is desirable to many consumers - Could activating MC1R with a synthetic peptide offer a safe, sustainable answer ? - Ex-vivo investigation and findings - Study findings confirm enhanced and long-lasting pigmentation in-vivo - Consumer perceptions from facial application of pentapeptide En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EzntfHqHMXOx3hhD8Xu0ivOLavs7XPaQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34600 [article]

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Essential aspects of filling stations for cosmetic products in the retail trade / Brigitta Hirschmann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 56-57 Titre : Essential aspects of filling stations for cosmetic products in the retail trade Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brigitta Hirschmann, Auteur ; Birgit Huber, Auteur ; Matthias Ibel, Auteur ; Evamaria Kratz, Auteur ; Birgit Pelzmann, Auteur ; Claudia Marx, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 56-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Commerce de détail Cosmétiques Libre-service (commerce) Règlements (droit administratif) Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the wake of a discussion about a possible saving of packaging materials, systems for the filling of cosmetic products in the retail trade are partly available. Of course all conditions imposed by the EC Cosmetics Regulation as well as the supplementary national regulations in Germany and Austria apply also to the products sold in this form. For these filling stations it is, however, necessary to attach special attention to compliance with the Cosmetics GMP conditions. In these cases the filling, which is subject to high hygienic requirements in industrial production, is outsourced to the retail trade. This is why comprehensive, robust hygiene concepts are necessary in particular for these systems. The authors have put together some essential aspects which need to be complied with when using such filling stations. In this connection it was taken into account that the organisation of the filling process in the retail trade can be designed quite differently in detail. It is necessary to consider both filling stations which are offered to customers for self-service as well as stations which are operated by retailer staff. Note de contenu : WHAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT FROM THE POINT OF VIEW OF THE MANUFACTURER, WHO ACTS AS RESPONSIBLE PERSON : Determination of the procedure for the filling - Particularities of the safety assessment - Securing of training of the staff of the retailer - Information for the customer "on site" - WHAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT FROM THE POINT OF VIEW OF A RETAILER ? : For refill systems of a manufacturer who acts as responsible person - For own refill systems En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SUkWFYKOqbRuE5b6KSTowG2z63N0d_E6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34601 [article]

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A new microbiota-respectful deodorant which allows axilla perspiration / Oscar Expósito in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 58-60 Titre : A new microbiota-respectful deodorant which allows axilla perspiration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oscar Expósito, Auteur ; Alejandro Guirado, Auteur ; Daniel Robustillo, Auteur ; Ana Gallego, Auteur ; Maria Mas, Auteur ; Pau Riera, Auteur ; Daniel Luna, Auteur ; Sara Laplana, Auteur ; Tarik Ruiz, Auteur ; Karsten Lingen, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 58-60 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aisselles -- Soins et hygiène Biomolécules actives Déodorants Microbiote Odeur corporelle Odeurs -- Lutte contre Pieds -- Soins et hygiène Prébiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The body odour modulation has historically been a concern for the human being and studying the microbiota involved represents an approach which this topic may naturally be faced from. The new active Deobiome Noni (INCI: Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate) is an active ingredient made from Morinda citrifolia plant stem cells that introduces the concept of biological deodorant. By combining an innovative prebiotic technology and the latest advances in plant stem cell technology in the skin microbiota treatment, it has been demonstrated how to modulate the body malodour while being respectful with the skin microbiota and its ecosystem. The mechanism of action of the active has been evaluated by performing several in vitro and in vivo tests to demonstrate the effective body odour reduction while allowing the natural axillary perspiration. Note de contenu : - The challenge of fighting body odour - Deobiome noni : The firsst biological deodorant : Biological strategy - Prebiotic strategy - In vitro efficacy - In vivo efficacy - Fig. 1 : Mechanism of actio of deobiome noni - Fig. 2 : Analysis of the broad spectrum bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect - Fig. 3 : Analysis of anti-biofilm effect on Corynebacterium striatum - Fig. 4 : Clinical evaluation of odourous volatile molecules reduction - Fig. 5 : Clinical evaluation of odour intensity reduction - Fig. 6 : Clinical evaluation of axillary perspiration rate - Fig. 7 : Clinical evaluation of feet odour reduction En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JDWYFrVDQkj-71hIOIsSYFamUu8dkmpv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34602 [article]

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Effect pigments with customized performance for cosmetics / Kailash M. Mogare in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 62-64 Titre : Effect pigments with customized performance for cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kailash M. Mogare, Auteur ; Tushar Navale, Auteur ; Frank Mazzella, Auteur ; Matthias Lergenmüller, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 62-64 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Mica Pigments Pigments à effets spéciaux Réflectance Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In Effect pigments based on natural mica as well as on synthetically prepared substrates such as Synthetic mica, or Silica, Alumina or Borosilicates (Glass flakes), the surface area/particle size plays a crucial role in tailoring effect pigments with desired properties in cosmetic applications. With two pigment series, Sumicosâ„¢ HG ("high-gloss") Line and Prestige® Glow and Glam Line, we have recently build-up a technology to create new effect pigments that provide better chroma, color purity and sparkle in comparison to the conventional effect pigments. The article describes the science behind creating these effect pigments with improved reflectance. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Reflectance versus wavelength of silver pearls ; conventional natural mica-based silver, glass flake-based silver, natural mica-based intense silver - Fig. 2 : Whiteness index versus brightness Index of silver pearls in 10-100μ range ; conventional Silver (natural mica-based), Glass flake Silver, intense silver (natural mica-based) - Fig. 3 : Reflectance versus wavelength of silver pearls in 20-150μ range ; conventional silver (natural mica-based), glass flake-based silver, high gloss silver (natural mica-based) and intense silver (natural mica-based) - Fig. 4 : Whiteness index versus brightness index of silver pearls in 20-150μ range ; conventional Silver (natural mica-based), glass flake silver, intense silver (natural mica-based) - Fig. 5 : Comparison of high gloss product vs Non High gloss products ; gloss at 20°, 60° and 85° angles with corresponding SEM images of raw mica that is used to produce the effect pigments (top : high gloss technology, bottom : conventional technology) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/161pfsbb1roR6lkRi_rMsn6F5zoY6zaaV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34603 [article]

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