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What today's consumers want from personal care / Emma Gubisch in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 12-14 Titre : What today's consumers want from personal care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emma Gubisch, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 12-14 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Études de marché Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With consumers’ needs and expectations evolving at pace, it is important for the personal care industry to adapt and realign to meet changing priorities. In this article we will look at recent research that gets to the heart of consumer truth to help drive focused, effective innovation that reflects what people really want from their personal care products. Product development and marketing has always relied on consumer insight. However, in the digital economy, consumer sentiment can take a sudden turn that leads to lasting changes in demands and expectations. It has never been more important for personal care brands to keep up with what people want, then react intelligently, efficiently and effectively. To get a handle on this dynamic landscape, we recently conducted quantitative and qualitative research with more than 2,000 British adults. Our aim was to drill down into the essence of what today’s consumers want from personal care brands. And some of the answers were surprising. For instance, we anticipated that environmental sustainability would be on people’s radar. But our survey saw a huge majority (79%) say personal care and beauty brands should put more effort into manufacturing products in an ethical and sustainable way. Overall, our findings indicate that consumers are looking for purposeful and personalised brand experiences and interactions. Running through all the varied demands and expectations is one common thread: a desire to 'find the products that work best for me'. However, 'work best' means different things to different people. It is fluid, changeable and hard to define. It can relate to product functionality or practical factors like cutting down the time it takes to style hair or shave in the morning. It can encompass individuals’ environmental goals, such as reducing waste. And it also covers more nebulous feelings related to wellbeing or body image. How can personal care innovation accommodate all of this ? Clearly, ingredients, formulation and chemistry will always be fundamental to products. But advanced consumer services driven by digital capabilities are moving up the agenda. Technology is now a significant factor in the ongoing race to achieve competitive differentiation and meet the needs of an increasingly demanding consumer. Brands that blend of-themoment consumer insight with technical and digital expertise as well as traditional scientific skills are likely to thrive. Note de contenu : - What consumer want - Which product works best for me ? - The personalisation question - Does it really work ? - Make tech the enabler, not the driver - Where next ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aaiWAjsGIiMLALx1Nbioh4luqBUYSNXw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33945 [article]

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Antimicrobial testing : what do the results mean ? / Kevin Roden in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 27-31 Titre : Antimicrobial testing : what do the results mean ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kevin Roden, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 27-31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) -- analyse Essais (technologie) Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tests designed to determine the antimicrobial efficacy of a product, such as a preservative in a cosmetic, a sanitiser in a household cleaner, or a disinfectant, have set pass requirements. These often specify minimum log reductions or % kill to meet the requirements of the test. This article will discuss how these tests are conducted, what these terms mean, how they are calculated and how changes in the method used for the testing may lead to variations in the results achieved. We will also cover changes to the Laboratory Accreditation Standard, ISO 17025 with regards to Measurement of Uncertainty and Statements of Conformity and what impact these changes may have on certificates of analysis issued for Testing. Note de contenu : - Step 1 : Preparation of the test organism - Step 2 : Add test organisms to the sample under test - Step 3 : Allow a desired contact period - Step 4 : Neutralise the active - Step 5 : Determine survivors - Step 6 : Calculate log reduction or % kill - Step 7 : Report the results - What do the test reports mean ? - What do they really mean ? - Fig. 1 : Variation in MIC values for lab vs wild strain organisms - Fig. 2 : Bacterial growth curve - Fig. 3 : Organism kill rates - Table 1 : Steps in antimicrobial testing - Table 2 : Calculation of log reduction and % kill - Table 3 : Comparison of log reduction and % kill - Table 4 : Acceptance criteria - Table 5 : Reduction criteria (log 10) for bacgeria for different test methods - Table 6 : Log reduction required vs number of bacteria killed En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzhxyzrbozDSIw9XgMZ0G4LAl_UtRvna/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33946 [article]

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Leveraging sustainability for advantage / Enrique Nuñez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 33-36 Titre : Leveraging sustainability for advantage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Enrique Nuñez, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 33-36 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Développement durable Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement Responsabilité environnementale Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) are a set of ambitious objectives to mobilise efforts to end poverty,to smaller, marginalised groups who might not otherwise have access. ensure peace and prosperity, and safeguard the planet and humanity. As an interwoven framework, these objectives have a bearing on diverse aspects of personal care industry operations. In this article, we will use the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) framework to spotlight environmental, economic and social dimensions for companies to consider at each life-cycle stage. We will demonstrate how activities can positively impact SDGs or at least minimise negative impacts, and examine how personal care companies are integrating sustainability into everyday operations and across functions. It is important to note that this is not a full LCA, as such examinations are typically conducted on individual products in a more comprehensive manner. However, we find the LCA a useful framework to explain how different life-cycle phases may impact sustainability, to show how actions can reverberate throughout the life-cycle, and to demonstrate that when efforts coalesce, sustainability can strengthen competitiveness, protect the environment, and lead to a better quality of life for all. Note de contenu : - Design - Sourcing - Manufacturing - Distribution - Consumer use - End-of-life - The future rewards prescient leaders En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17kXpNdGyHuCPYBpxhRxvmyPoqirYm36y/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33947 [article]

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Certified content brings transparency to natural claims / Audrey Wesson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 41-43 Titre : Certified content brings transparency to natural claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Audrey Wesson, Auteur ; Haley Gershon, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 41-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural cosmetics and personal care products are not just a fleeting trend but rather a movement that is disrupting the entire industry. The natural and organic personal care market is expected to be a $22 billion industry by 2024. Consumers all over the world are increasingly seeking more plant-based materials for nearly all aspects of their lives, and industries including packaging, energy, clothing, personal care and especially food are making the switch. The rise of plant-based eating is driven by multiple consumer concerns including reducing the environmental impact of meat production, protecting animal rights, and supporting a healthy diet. In the US between 2014 and 2017 there has been a 600% increase in Americans identifying as vegan. Even the term "plant-based" has transformed the vegan food space by making it more accessible to those who want to indulge in these healthier-for-youand-the-planet options but do not want to completely give up animal products. The increased inclusivity of veganism, vegetarianism, flexitarians and even juicing all are grounded in consumption of more plants. This trend – which is parallel and intertwined with the wellness trend — has manifested in the cosmetic industry in the demand for natural, plant-based ingredients and packaging. Note de contenu : - The greenwashing challenge - Ingredient verification through carbon-14 testing - Certifying plant-based content - Case study : Inolex, Inc. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KmQbdTuvAXMQ4jKW7iFk95hXf--MXKh4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33948 [article]

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Inflammasomes : key to the engine of skin inflammaging / James V. Gruber in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 45-51 Titre : Inflammasomes : key to the engine of skin inflammaging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James V. Gruber, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 45-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caspase Les caspases sont une classe de protéases à cystéine qui reconnaissent chacune une séquence particulière sur certaines protéines et hydrolysent la liaison peptidique côté carboxyle d'un résidu d'aspartate de cette séquence. Ces enzymes jouent un rôle essentiel dans les phénomènes inflammatoires ainsi que dans l'apoptose (mort cellulaire programmée) et la nécrose2. Le terme "caspase" est la contraction en anglais de l'expression cysteine-aspartic protease, parfois également écrite cysteine-dependent aspartate-directed protease, voire cysteinyl-aspartate-cleaving protease. Les caspases sont indispensables à l'apoptose des cellules, et jouent un rôle crucial au cours du développement et d'autres stades de la vie adulte. Elles sont dites "exécutrices" (executioner en anglais) en raison leur fonction dans la cellule. Certaines caspases sont également requises par le système immunitaire pour la maturation des lymphocytes. Une apoptose insuffisante est l'un des principaux facteurs contribuant au développement des tumeurs et des maladies auto-immunes, tandis qu'une apoptose excessive accompagne l'ischémie et maladie d'Alzheimer, de sorte que les caspases ont été étudiées comme cibles thérapeutiques potentielles depuis leur découverte au milieu des années 1990. Ces enzymes sont présentes dans le cytoplasme sous forme d'une proenzyme inactive. Ces protéines, appelées procaspases, sont activées par clivage en deux sous-unités, une grande et une petite, qui dimérisent pour former un hétérotétramère actif composé de deux grandes et deux petites sous-unités. Lorsqu'elles sont activées, elles participent à la mise en œuvre d'un "signal de mort cellulaire". Ce signal a été mis en évidence lors de l'identification et du clonage du gène pro-apoptotique ced-3 de Caenorhabditis elegans, dont le premier homologue mammifère ayant été identifié est le gène ICE (Interleukin-1β Converting Enzyme), ou CASP1, donnant la caspase 1. Cosmétiques Dermatologie Essais (technologie) Etudes cliniques Inflammasomes Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Regardless of the steps people take to fight the ageing process, we all continue to age. Our skin becomes the most predominately visible cue of the ageing process. Formation of wrinkles, sagging skin, age spots, thinning and similar changes become the hallmarks of the ageing process. The term "inflammaging" has been coined to describe the process of ageing that is driven through inflammatory pathways. While numerous aspects of skin inflammation have been explored, it is curious that, to date, little has been described about one of the most fundamental pathways of skin inflammation signalling and response; Inflammasomes. This paper will describe recent studies we have undertaken looking at how Nod-Like Receptor Protein (NLRP) Inflammasome Complexes form as a result of exogenous contact with various DangerAssociated Molecular Patterns (DAMPs) and Pathogen-Associated Molecular Patterns (PAMPs) and how, after forming, these critical inflammation sentinels release Caspase-1 which commences a powerful pattern of downstream inflammation responses that leads to healing and, in some cases, over-healing. The link between the formation of NLRP Inflammasomes and such critical skin health responses will be explored as will the link between formation of Inflammasome expressed Caspase-1 and such important skin maladies as acne, rosacea, dandruff, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and skin inflammaging will be discussed. Note de contenu : - Activation of caspase-1 release via NLRP inflammasomes in NHEKs - Influence of botanical blends on expression of active caspase-1 in NHEKs - Clinical examination of the polysaccharide blend on skin barrier recovery from tape stripping - Clinical examination of the polysaccharide blend on extended skin hydration En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HVAxvnyCyyBTKCaxnqDEWQwonOhhu-gS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33949 [article]

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The skin microbiome analysed / Ghita Lanzendörfer-Yu in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 53-56 Titre : The skin microbiome analysed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ghita Lanzendörfer-Yu, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 53-56 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Microbiome -- Analyse Microbiome cutané Prébiotiques Probiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Our skin is colonised by microorganisms, bacteria, fungi and viruses, sometimes even mites. All together, they form the so-called skin microbiome and are essential for our health. At the same time, the composition of our microbiome is as individual as a fingerprint. And it affects not only our skin health, but overall our wellbeing and possibly also our behaviour. Note de contenu : - Genomic research successfully completed - The human microbiome project (HMP) - The research on the human microbiome - The skin microbiome - Healthy skin and the associated bacteria - Pro- and prebiotic skin care : does it make sense ? - The gut-skin-axis : why nutrition is so important - Table 1 : Different areas of microbiome research.10 It should be noticed, that most studies have been undertaken on the microbiome of the gut. However, overall intensified research of the microbiome as a whole has taken place in recent years. So also data accumulate that we humans are probably colonised with microbes everywhere - Table 2 : Probiotic and prebiotic approaches to improve the microbiome. While these approaches to improve the gut microbiome are already established, they are comparatively new to the skin microbiome. In 2014 a real hype was created in the US by a publication in the New York Times, which published a review on the use of bacteria to restore the skin’s microbiome - Fig. 1 : Logo of the human microbiome project - Fig. 2 : Sketch of the different skin areas. The general colour coding is used. Blue : oily, green = moist, pink = dry. Oily skin areas are located in the upper third of the body, they are also areas that are often hairy, e.g. head. Moist areas are found where there are folds of skin, e.g. in the armpit or, where many sweat glands are located as on the palms and soles of the feet. The other areas are regarded as dry, especially the extremities - Fig. 3 : The different skin areas and their colonisation with microbes. Bacteria - corynebacteria, staphylococci and propionibacteria - are the most frequently found bacterial members on almost every areaof the skin. In addition to viruses, the fungus Melassezia is an important representative of the microbiome of the skin. The diversity of the fungi is greatest on the feet, but with very low population density - Fig. 4 : Important factors influencing the composition of the microbiome include physiology (age and gender), environment (climate and geographical location), immune system, genotype, lifestyle and pathobiology (e.g., diabetes). Urbanisation and the concomitant changes in our lifestyles are currently regarded as the most important factors influencing our microbiome En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGEpvvy5QFxLad9s72bZZLLk5fFekBZ0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33950 [article]

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Sensitive skin : an ultra-sensitive topic / Charlotte Vignal in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 58-62 Titre : Sensitive skin : an ultra-sensitive topic Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charlotte Vignal, Auteur ; L. Brun, Auteur ; Pascale Goyat, Auteur ; George Rosson, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 58-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Etude in vitro Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Numerous epidemiological studies show that the number of people claiming to have sensitive skin is increasing every year in the world. Long underestimated, the impact of sensitive skin syndrome is finally recognised. Although the links between sensitive skin, age and skin type are still being debated, there is now consensus among dermatologists as regards symptoms of sensitive skin. Atopic skin associates two major problems: an alteration of its hydrolipidic barrier, from which extreme dryness and hypersensitivity arise, as well as a strong sensitivity to allergens, the cause of dermatitis, mainly in the form of eczema. The most common aggravating factors generally fall into three categories: environmental factors, skin care products and the third category is that of internal factors: genetics, but also psychological stress and lifestyle choices such as diet, smoking which can cause redness and discomfort in sensitive skin. The daily routine of cleaning and care of sensitive skin is essential to prevent and stop these unwelcome manifestations. And above all it must be done with suitable products. Note de contenu : - A UNIQUE MICROALGAE FOR A TARGETED SOLUTION - MECHANISMS OF SKIN SENSIBILITY : Cholesterol : Essential & multifunctional lipid - Formation of the hydrophobic extracellular lipid matrix and plasma membrane of corneocytes - Sensitive skin/atopic skin - IN VITRO TEST AND RESULTS : Carbonic anhydrase II (CA2) abundance - Filaggrin (FLG) abundance - Involucrin (INV) abundance - Fig. 1 : Nannochloropsis Oceanica Extract composition - Fig. 2 : Closed-circuit low carbon footprint photobioreactor technology process - Fig. 3 : Cholesterol: an amphiphilic molecule - Fig. 4 : Effects of inflammation - Fig. 5 : Analysis of the positive effects of Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL - Fig. 6 : CA2 abundance after treatment of RHE-Th2 (Atopic RHE) with Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL during 48h and analysis by immunofluorescence - Fig. 7 : FLG abundance after treatment of Atopic RHE with Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL during 48h - Fig. 8 : Analysis by immunofluorescence of FLG abundance after treatment of Atopic RHE with Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL during 48H - Fig. 9 : INV abundance after treatment of Atopic RHE with Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL during 48h - Fig. 10 : Analysis by immunofluorescence of INV abundance after treatment of Atopic RHE with Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL during 48H En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13kR0Q364u9TRigRKL46niZudbZhYte_e/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33951 [article]

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The importance of marine sustainability / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 64-65 Titre : The importance of marine sustainability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 64-65 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Biomolécules actives Développement durable Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : While sustainability in general has been a big focus for the personal care industry of late, perhaps the greatest surge has been with marine sustainability. We have become more aware of the extremely fragile ecosystems present in this environment and the impact industry has on them. Note de contenu : - Reef safe sun care - The red seaweed promise - Sustainable marine actives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Ze4Kzk_9CMdUj8Oz7Gy0MAl5y7ZJbf4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33952 [article]

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Enhancing nocturnal processes for beautiful skin / Justine Cotton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 67-70 Titre : Enhancing nocturnal processes for beautiful skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Justine Cotton, Auteur ; Catherine Gondran, Auteur ; Elodie Oger, Auteur ; Karine Cucumel, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 67-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Eco-conception Huile essentielle de lavande Peau -- Soins et hygiène Principe actif biofonctionnel Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ashland has unlocked the secret of our skin at night so you can awaken like Sleeping Beauty from your slumber, with skin re-set for the day ahead. Ashland Nightessence™ biofunctional was developed to enhance the naturally occurring nocturnal process that helps skin boost molecules such as timezyme and melatonin. Leveraging off the current beauty sleep trend, this is the first biofunctional of its kind tailored to understand and optimise skin’s nighttime needs. It helps restore it overnight, so skin looks rested, renewed and illuminated by morning. Nightessence was eco-consciously designed from field-to-skin. Our premium lavender is grown sustainably on the mountain slopes in Provence, France, and the flowers are extracted using Ashland’s proprietary Plant Small RNA technology to offer a novel type of lavender essence to the cosmetic market. Note de contenu : - The 'blue gold' of Provence Alps, on the road of summer - A novel premium lavender essence for the cosmetic market - An eco-design from field-to-skin - Introducing the biology of nighttime skin - An answer to the growing beauty sleep trend - Fig. 1 : Farytale lavender landscapes in Valensole at 700 metre in July - Fig. 2 : Plant small RNA technology - Fig. 3 : Skin's noctology refers to essential nocturnal processes for a skin renewed by the morning - Fig. 4 : Melatonin immunostaining on skin biopsy with application of Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.5 % - Fig. 5 : Timezyme immunostaining on skin biopsy with application of Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.5 % - Fig. 6 : ROS detection on keratinocytes exposed to artificial daylight and treated with Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.1 % - Fig. 7 : Detection of dark CPDs on melanocytes 16 hours after UVB exposure and treated with Nightessence or a benchmark at 0.1 % - Fig. 8 : Dark circle improvement results En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ND2sT_Fl4OJjaggSeiHFgqTVfxHvnKsS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33953 [article]

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Appealing concepts for the whole family in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 72-73 Titre : Appealing concepts for the whole family Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 72-73 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques pour enfants Cosmétiques pour nourrissons Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the past, the general care and hygiene of children was very much left to women, and therefore products designed to be used for children were targeted towards mothers. This meant that all aspects of the product – the packaging, the brand, the fragrance – were engineered to appeal to female senses. Now it is more common for both parents to work and this has resulted in parenting responsibilities being shared more evenly. With traditional stereotypes in parenting changing, this has caused a disruptive impact on the parental expectations of the personal care industry and its product offerings designed for children.. Despite such changes, 50% of dads still feel left out of baby care products as they are typically aimed at mothers (Mintel). From this stems a concept from Surfachem, designed for both parents to use with their children. This innovative range of formulations enhances bonding through multisensory experiences, from scents to textures. In addition to these stereotypes, there is also a growing demand for greener products and ingredient transparency. With 74% of parents preferring children’s personal care products that are kind to the environment, and 80% wanting to know exactly what ingredients are in them (Mintel), Surfachem’s ‘Big Kid Little Kid’ concept responds to these shifting consumer demands. Note de contenu : - Product characteristics : Engagment - Ingredient transparency - Greener products - Personal care products helping children's development - Big kid little kid - Big kid, little kid formulations : Creaseeze - Relief and replenish balm - My shal ahl - Slip & slide - Bath slime En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z-NCax382OwswtfffKWaYYzXE6Kc-OHO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33954 [article]

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Natural anti-acne extract aids healthy skin microbiota / Carine Boutot in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 75-78 Titre : Natural anti-acne extract aids healthy skin microbiota Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carine Boutot, Auteur ; Sandie Gervason, Auteur ; Assia Dreux-Zigha, Auteur ; Magalie Cabannes, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur ; Isabelle Metton, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 75-78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Caractérisation Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Microbiote Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although a number of facts on the physiopathological mechanisms of acne are now well established, it is still unclear what triggers the inflammatory disease of the sebaceous follicle. Very recently, there has been a paradigm shift in the understanding of the role of Cutibacterium acnes(C. acnes, formerly Propionibacterium acnes) in the pathophysiology of acne. Firstly, the aim of this study was the characterization of the skin microbiota with a focus on Cutibacterium acnes(C. acnes) phylotypes in subjects with acne. Secondly, microbiota changes after 28 days’ treatment of berries, Rhodomyrtus tomentosaactive ingredient (RT), rich in acylphloroglucinols, polyphenols, and organic acids were analyzed. Clinical evaluations (lesion counts) were performed at baseline (D0) and after 28 days (D28) of twice-daily application of RT active ingredient. Note de contenu : - METHODOLOGY : Participants - Study product - Microbiota sampling - STATISTICAL ANALYSIS - Fig. 1 : Mean Relative Phylum (A) and Genera (B) abundances for each group of samples. For the sake of clarity, only Phylum with mean relative abundance superior than 0.1% and Genera with mean relative abundance superior than 0.5% are represented - Fig. 2 : Shannon diversity index at the genus level using Wilcoxon test - Fig. 3 : Mean relative SLST type and phylotype abundance during experimentation - Table 1 : Inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions variation between D0 and D8 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1upC02UdowuPBfpTpY3rEwmoRGpo-b0lV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33955 [article]

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Water quality that is more than skin deep / Kalpesh Shah in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 81-83 Titre : Water quality that is more than skin deep Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kalpesh Shah, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 81-83 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Normalisation Eau Ingrédients cosmétiques Qualité -- Contrôle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Water is one of the most important and widely used ingredients in the production of cosmetic and personal care products. Therefore, ensuring the quality of this vital ingredient is crucial. The European Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 requires that all products manufactured for use in the EU must comply with the ISO 22716 Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) standard. The GMP guidelines state that water used as a cosmetic ingredient should be of a defined quality and that this should be maintained through regular testing or monitoring of the water. In terms of system design, it states that the water treatment system should be designed to avoid stagnation and contamination and allow sanitisation. It also requires that the materials used in the construction of the treatment system do not affect the quality of the water. The ISO 22716 GMP is also used as a basis for regulation outside of Europe. In 2008, the International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR), the group made up of regulatory authorities from Canada, the EU, Japan and the United States, adopted ISO 22716 as the standard for cosmetics manufacturing practice. It is also recognised in Southeast Asia by the ASEAN Consultative Committee for Standards and Quality (ACCSQ). Note de contenu : - Setting the standard - Treatment options available - Maintaining quality and ensuring compliance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lhVFMDx3Ml2AICtyPpRXQkhnncI8xQTY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33956 [article]

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Keratosis pilaris quantified by two test methods / Emmanuel Doridot in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 85-89 Titre : Keratosis pilaris quantified by two test methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emmanuel Doridot, Auteur ; C. Bondil, Auteur ; E. Pinard, Auteur ; M. Leonard, Auteur ; Philippe Mondon, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 85-89 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermatologie Evaluation Imperfections cutanées Kératose pilaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Keratosis pilaris (KP) is one of the most common skin imperfections that results from follicular hyperkeratosis. It is characterized by an accumulation of corneocytes forming a keratinized plug which blocks and then dilates the hair follicle, sometimes associated with perifollicular erythema 1. Because of its bad cosmetic appearance, KP can be socially disabling. Prevalence for KP is almost 40% of the total population and is increased in adolescents, predominantly girls where the prevalence is up to 80%. Studies show this phenomenon occurs in more than 85% of cases during the first two decades of life, mainly on arms, legs and buttocks. This condition is quite often familial (39 to 67% of the cases according to the authors) although no single gene mutation has yet been directly associated with keratosis pilaris. If KP reduces with age in 35% of people, it remains at the same level in 43% of the cases and even worsens for the others. There are, however, more or less strong correlations between certain states of life or pathologies and keratosis pilaris occurrence. Obesity, diabetes, pregnancy, menopause and vitamin A deficiency are thus unfavorably associated with keratosis pilaris. Keratosis pilaris is also more common for people with cutaneous dryness (ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis), with a less efficient skin barrier and less retention of epidermal water, moreover 35% of KP patients displayed common mutations in filaggrin gene. On the other hand, an environmental aspect might play a role, as keratosis pilaris regresses during summer and worsens during winter cold dry episodes. This suggests that the air humidity reduction can be considered as an aggravating factor. Metrological evaluation of KP is not a developed field and only a few visual observations are available in scientific literature. In order to better quantify, illustrate and describe morphological parameters of KP , development of two methods were performed. The first method consisted in an acquisition with a dermatoscopic camera which provides standardized 2D pictures and 3D representations. The second method used negative prints (replicas) of the KP . An acquisition of the replicas relief was performed by fringe projection technology and then, analyzed with the Dermatop software AEVA or with software MOUNTAINS. Two specific process were developed within both software in order to calculate parameters such as density, surface, perimeter, volume and thickness. Thanks to this preliminary development, the cosmetic effect of a cream containing a Salinicoccus hispanicuslysate filtrate versus a placebo was evaluated.B Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Panel for development of the method - Panel for product evaluation & design of the study - Dermatoscopic camera - Sifflo and fringe projection - Software - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Dermatoscopic camera - AEVA software set up - Mountains software set up - AEVA and mountains results : Product evaluation - Table 1 : KP topographic parameters - Table 2 : Quantification with AEVA. Surface - Table 3 : Variation of keratosis pilaris after 4 weeks cream application En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JuzAgwEWECm8CJUKyB5wetRHHO4rNT6j/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33957 [article]

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Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 92-96 Titre : Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 92-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Huiles et graisses Hygiène Produits nettoyants shampooings Surfactants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Amino acids are key components of the human metabolism : Glutamate, for instance, is the most important substance in the brain to transport information from one nerve cell to another. It is a neurotransmitter. Additionally, amino acids can be linked together in different combinations to create shorter (peptides) and longer (proteins) chains. Both fulfil a variety of different vital functions in the human body : Collagen, for instance, is the most frequently occurring protein in the human body. It is composed of three intertwined chains (triple helix) to lend structure to connective tissue. Simply for spatial arrangement reasons in this protein the smallest amino acid, glycine, is the main component. The water solubility of amino acids also makes them an attractive choice for the hydrophilic part of surfactants. When an amino acid is linked with a triglyceridederived fatty acid (e. g. from coconut oil), surfactants (N-acyl derivatives, "amino acid surfactants") exclusively based on natural components are created. When the amino acid is produced via a fermentation process starting from glucose or its derivatives, the surfactants even are completely composed of renewable raw materials (e. g. cocoyl glutamate). Those surfactants are an ideal choice for natural cosmetic applications. Contrary to expectations, the development of amino acid surfactants is not a result of the current trend towards ‘green’ surfactants. The first examples were patented in the 1930s. Already at that time one candidate, a derivative of sarcosine, was introduced to the market. The original idea behind this development was to create surfactants alternative to soaps to overcome their drawbacks (precipitation in pH-neutral aqueous solutions, sensitivity to water hardness). The 'trick' is to insert a suitable spacer between the hydrophobic part and the carboxylate group. By the way, in the 1930s also another solution was found : To introduce a sulfo-group and to "block" or replace the carboxylic group of fatty acids (e. g. acyl isethionates and fatty alcohol sulfates). The attractiveness of amino acid surfactants for cosmetic applications is additionally based on two other aspects : At first, they are proven mild and well foaming surfactants. Secondly, they are excellent biodegradable. The linkage between the hydrophobic and the hydrophilic part of the surfactant is an amide bond. This type of bondage is frequently ‘used’ by nature (e.g. in peptides and proteins) and can therefore easily be cleaved by nature´s enzymes. Note de contenu : - Acyl sarcosinates and acyl glycinates : unequal siblings - Acyl glutamates : completely sustainable - The principle 'thickening without thickeners' - Fig. 1 : Examples for natural amino acids in aqueous solutions (pH 7) : a) Glutamate, b) Glycine, c) Sarcosine - Fig. 2 : a) Surfactants based on N-lauroyl amino acids (amino acid surfactants), R : Amino acid specific rest, R* : H for glutamates and glycinates, CH3 for sarcosinates b) Soap (laurate) - Fig. 3 : Two amino acid surfactants: Hydrogen bonds (hashed line) can be created only in acyl glycinates - Fig. 4 : Radical change of micellar structures: Thickening by lowering the pH - Fig. 5 : Anionic and neutral form of an amino acid surfactant: Effective spatial arrangement within micelles. For the position of the “border” between hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts see literature - Fig. 6 : Schematic spatial arrangement of acyl glutamates within micelles - Fig. 7 : Thickening by lowering the pH - Table 1 : PEG-free luxurious facial cleansing oil - Table 2 : Very mild and creamy foaming body shampoo - Table 3 : Shower gel for natural cosmetics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lAbknzP3EERz6-Qf39MDKT2xg6j5Abgp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33958 [article]

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Natural antiperspirants : dream or reality ? / Philip B. Klepak in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 111-117 Titre : Natural antiperspirants : dream or reality ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philip B. Klepak, Auteur ; Barbara M. Schmidt, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 111-117 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiperspirants Biomolécules actives Couleur Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Produits naturels Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, some products of plant origin have been shown to be effective chemotherapeutic agents demonstrating measurable biological activity without exerting undesirable side effects. This article addresses whether some plants contain sufficient bioactive phtyochemicals that could function as ‘natural’ antiperspirants when applied from a topical formulation. The terms antiperspirant and deodorant are often used interchangeably in publications, but this is confusing, as there are true differences between them, especially with respect to regulatory classification, functionality, and the types of ingredients currently used. The first step, therefore, is to briefly understand the current state of the art. Note de contenu : - ANTIPERSPIRANTS VERSUS DEODORANTS - BIOACTIVITIES : Aluminium and aluminium-zirconium - based salts - Astringents - Absorbents - Decreased sweat stimulation - Protein aggregation - INGREDIENTS FROM NATURE : Ingredients from plants - Mineral ingredients - RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CHALLENGES OF A NATURAL ANTIPERSPIRANT : Formulation technology - Ingredient sourcing, quality assurance, and consistency - Plant extract stability-powder vs. liquids - Antiperspirant formulation : stability and colour - Efficacy testing - MARKETING IN A CROWDED FIELD - Fig. 1 : Schematic of eccring sweat gland - Fig. 2 : A. Hyoscyamine, a tropane alkaloid with anticholinergic activity from the plant family Solanaceae. B. Glycopyrrolate, a synthetic anticholinergic drug approved by the FDA as a topical wipe to treat excessive underarm sweating - Fig. 3 : Examples of antiperspirant ingredients from nature - Table 1 : Ayurvedic herbs for sweating - Table 2 : TCM herbs for sweating - Table 3 : European and american herbs, fungi, and marine organisms for sweating En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DTrTIf95F-UDPmZiOPkMYJSzep4yKtOh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33959 [article]

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Natural formulations with non-nano mineral UV filters / Blanca Motos-Pérez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 119-122 Titre : Natural formulations with non-nano mineral UV filters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Blanca Motos-Pérez, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 119-122 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Chimie écologique Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Granulométrie Photostabilité Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Rayonnement ultraviolet B Règlements (droit administratif) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : ADPCosmetics presents two natural cosmetic formulations that follow Green Chemistry Principles. Non nanometric UV filters included in these formulations are multifunctional and efficient, to minimise the need of ingredients. EnhanceU filters are manufactured with ADParticles technology that is environmentally friendly and efficient in terms of energy, raw materials and (absence of) solvent consumption. Therefore, the two formulations here presented, named Feel Young and Feel Warm, are natural w/o and o/w emulsions respectively, both for skin care and suncare. enhanceU-S and enhanceUT-warm filters allow obtaining SPF30-50 while efficiently protecting from UVA radiation and are appropriate options when looking for ingredients for sustainable cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Natural formula for skin care and sun care : Feel young - Natural formula for skin care and sun care with colour : Feel warm - Mineral UV filters that are nonnanometric and protect from UVB and UVA radiation : High-SPF and broad-spectrum protection - Photostability - Stability - Sensoriality - Manipulation and safety - Regulations - Natural formulas - Fig. 1 : Feel young cream w/o formulation - Fig. 2 : Particle size distribution of enhanceU-S by dynamic light scattering - Fig. 3 : Feel warm daily cream with colour - Fig. 4 : Photostability of enhanceU mineral filters - Table 1 : Characterisation of natural formulas after 3 months' stability (mean values) - Table 2 : EnhanceU filters Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33960 [article]

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Odour absorption from activated zinc ricinoleate / Yana Bykov in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 124-128 Titre : Odour absorption from activated zinc ricinoleate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yana Bykov, Auteur ; Swetlana Vogt, Auteur ; Martina Spiegel, Auteur ; Maximilian Franke, Auteur ; Martin Husmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 124-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Cosmétiques Déodorants Formulation (Génie chimique) Odeurs -- Lutte contre Peau -- Soins et hygiène Ricinoléate de zinc Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Smell is one of the five most important senses (sight, hearing, touch and taste), allowing us to perceive life in its entirety. The perception of smell is a very complex process including the excitation of specialised receptors located in the human nasal cavity, and signal transmission to the brain. Smells are caused by volatile chemical compounds, which can often be recognised even when present in low concentrations. Odour plays an important role in our lives. It evokes emotions and memories, changes cognitive and physical abilities, and of course affects relationships between people. For this reason, the problem of odours has been preoccupying scientists and industrial developers for many years. We have to consider the subjective perception when talking about pleasant and unpleasant odours. Acceptance of unpleasant odours can be determined by averaging the opinion of the population. The main source of malodours are sulfur and nitrogen containing molecules, such as allicin – garlic, felinine - cat urine, hydrogen sulfide - rotten eggs, ammonia – urine, indole and skatole – fecal, cadaverine and putrescine – rotting flesh, nicotine – tobacco and so on. In addition, there are other odorous substances that are responsible, for example for smell of sweat - isovaleric acid, rancid oil - butanoic acid, tobacco smoke - acetaldehyde etc. In everyday life the number of unpleasant odours originated from non-sulfur and nonnitrogen containing molecules is very limited. The most common solution to 'change' unpleasant odours is the use of fragrances. Such mixtures release a pleasant scent and are able to cover unpleasant odours. This masking is not always effective and after dispersing the fragrance, unpleasant odour molecules will be predominant in the atmosphere again. Note de contenu : - Odour absorbers - Zinc ricinoleate - Zinc ricinoleate activation - A series of water-soluble odour absorber concentrates - Performance tests - Application fields - Fig. 1 : Chemical formula of zinc ricinoleate - Fig. 2 : Three-dimensional model of zinc ricinoleate molecule - Fig. 3 : Molecular simulation of the interaction of zinc ricinoleate and MGDA - Fig. 4 : Self-assembly of the complex on the surface of the solution - Fig. 5 : Absorption of diethylamine (top) and ethanethiol (bottom) by 30% diluted solution of Polyfix ZRC 30 MT - Fig. 6 : Absorption of hydrogen sulfide by two market products without and with the addition of 15% Polyfix ZRC 30 MT - Fig. 7 : Efficiency (%) of 5% solutions of Polyfix ZRC 25 GP, Polyfix ZRC 30 MT and competitor's product regarding absorption of ammonia, hydrogen sulfide and acetic acid - Fig. 8 : Efficiency (%) of deodorant roll-on "Perfect Polyfix" without and with Polyfix ZRC 25 GP and two market products containing zinc ricinoleate regarding absorption of ammonia, hydrogen sulfide and acetic acid - Fig. 9 : Absorption of artificial sweat odour by 10% solution of Polyfix ZRC 25 GP. (Intensity : 6 - extremely strong, 5- very strong, 4 – strong, 3 – distinct, 2 - weak, 1 – very weak) - Fig. 10 : Statistical survey with 24 male and female subjects about the effect of diluted Polyfix ZRC 30 MT on various odours - clockwise arrangement of odour intensity - Table 1 : The Polyfix products range - Table 2 : Basic formulation of deodorant roll-on "Perfect Polyfix" with Polyfix ZRC 25 GP En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AjmQIAh89axSuAZt1MRHsuDv-NjxWL8K/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33961 [article]

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New ingredient from Rosa rugosa delays skin ageing / Annalisa Tito in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 131-137 Titre : New ingredient from Rosa rugosa delays skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Annalisa Tito, Auteur ; Claudia Zappelli, Auteur ; Maura Angelillo, Auteur ; Maria Gabriella Colucci, Auteur ; Fabio Apone, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 131-137 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Caractérisation Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Chimie analytique Cosmétiques Elisa, Test Le test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée. Expression génique Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fibroblastes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin ageing is an inevitable physiological process, determined by several concomitant factors, resulting in a thinner and drier skin, in the formation of fine wrinkles, and a gradual dermal atrophy. During this process the skin cells become senescent, they slow down their metabolism and the production of structural matrix components. The Growth Differentiation Factor 11 (GDF11) has been recently identified as a pro-youth factor in several cell types, and in particular it was shown its involvement in the restoration of a young phenotype in skin fibroblasts, by stimulating important ExtraCellular Matrix proteins. Furthermore, its key role in modulating mitochondrial functions in skin cells during ageing has been highlighted. In the present article, we describe the characterisation of a plant extract, obtained from Rosa rugosatissue cultures, able to produce a ‘rejuvenating’ effect in aged skin fibroblasts by inducing GDF11 expression and synthesis. The extract was also capable of increasing the expression of PGC1alpha, the master regulator of the mitochondrial biogenesis, and other important genes involved in the pathway, leading to an improvement of cell metabolism and longevity. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant tissue cultures - Chemical analyses - Cell cultures and reagents for cell bioassays - ELISA assays - Gene expression analysis in HDF - Smad2 reporter assay - ATP content determination - Statistical analyses - Clinical tests - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of the Rosa rugosa extracts and cytotoxicity assay - Activity of the Rosa rugosa extracts on the expression of GDF11, Sirtuins 1 and Sirtuin 6 - Chemical analysis of the Rosa rugosa somatic embryo extract- Activities of the Rosa rugosa somatic embryo extract on mitochondria - Activities of the Rosa rugosasomatic embryo extract on collagen and GDF11 production - Clinical tests with the Rosa rugosasomatic embryo extract En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14RZdDOU35aptcxwYpk23FioS_DVj6Y6g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33962 [article]

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An antipollution shield from sustainable sericin / Valentina Mastria in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 139-142 Titre : An antipollution shield from sustainable sericin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Valentina Mastria, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 139-142 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séricine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Particulate matter in the atmosphere has been proven to be one of the main causes of skin ageing. Studies have shown that PM0.3 - 2.5 particles condition the inflammatory response of both skin receptors and the epidermal structure. The most recent scientific evidence suggests that the mechanisms by which environmental pollution causes damage to the skin are: free radical formation, alteration of the skin microflora, activation of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) and of the inflammatory cascade. PM2.5 can cause alterations in the epidermis by increasing cholesterol synthesis with a transient accumulation of epidermal cholesterol content and decrease of squalene. Data show that a pure, regenerated sericin, obtained by a circular economy process, has an anti-pollution effect, creates a protective film on the skin and hair and promotes the removal of atmospheric particulate matter. The regenerated sericin helps prevent the accumulation of particulate matter on the epidermis and improves skin appearance, making it brighter and smoother. Applied on the hair, it has shown to exert a filmforming action and promotes an ‘instant repair’ effect. Sericin regeneration is an example of a truly circular process in which materials that have concluded their life cycle, in this case in the silk processing industry, can be recovered and give form to new, exceptional grade material. Note de contenu : - COSMETIC ACTIVITY - ANTIPOLLUTION ACTION : Results from a clinical study - Methods and materials - RESULTS : Evaluation of microparticle adhesion b GIMP - Evaluation of skin radiance through analysis of the parameter L - Test on strands - Methods - Fig. 1 : Photographs at different times (T0, T2 and T3) for both areas, treated and untreated - Fig. 2 : Number of black pixels (mean) at T2, T3. At T3, the number of black pixels were reduced compared to the previous measurement (T2) by 17.4% in the treated area and 0.4% in the untreated area (not significant) - Fig. 3 : Evaluation of L parameter at T2 and T3 in the treated and in the untreated area - Fig. 4 : Comparison among strands - Fig. 5 : Hair strands stressed control (not treated) - Fig. 6 : Hair strands stressed then treated with product - Table 1 : Formulation tested En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UGkaiJuIajPU_tbDMWCovCls2BQLaNk8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33963 [article]

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Clearing senescent cells for rejuvenated skin / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 144-146 Titre : Clearing senescent cells for rejuvenated skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 144-146 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Carbonylation Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fibroblastes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protéines Régénération (biologie) Vieillissement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cellular senescence is one of the hallmarks of ageing. Senescent cells that reside in the dermis as a result of the ageing process and oxidative stress, secrete pro-inflammatory factors that further contribute to ageing. Therefore, eliminating senescent cells has emerged as a promising anti-ageing therapy in the medical field in the past few years. This novel concept known as ‘senolytics’ helps to clear tissues of senescent cells without affecting healthy cells in order to reduce inflammation and rejuvenate the tissue. For the first time, this concept has been adapted for cosmetics. An extract from organic alpine rose leaves demonstrated a clear senolytic activity on senescent fibroblasts. In placebo-controlled clinical studies, the alpine rose extract prevented the formation of protein carbonyls, one of the most harmful irreversible modifications of proteins, upon UVA irradiation. In addition, treatment with alpine rose extract significantly reduced skin redness and increased elasticity. Note de contenu : - Senolytic drugs to promote longevity - Protein carbonylation - An extract from organic Swiss alpine rose leaves - Materials and methods : Senolytic assay - In vivo protein carbonylation assay - Clinical anti-ageing study - Results and discussion : Alpine rose extract has senolytic activity - Alpine rose extract prevents protein carbonylation - Increase in skin elasticity and decrease in redness En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RHJdbDdfywG1ehP1WKEgEq-6J2D9scxo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33964 [article]

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Understanding natural ingredients and mildness / Barbara Olioso in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 148-149 Titre : Understanding natural ingredients and mildness Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Barbara Olioso, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 148-149 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Contamination microbienne Cosmétiques Douceur (toucher) Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxydation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits chimiques -- Sécurité Produits naturels Sulfates Le sulfate est le sel de l'acide sulfurique H2SO4. La formule de l'ion sulfate est SO42-. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nature is full of wonders, yet only a small fraction of its plants are suitable for human consumption. In a society living far from nature, there is a real longing for naturals, often with the accompanying romantic idea that everything natural is safe, and even though I am an advocate of using plant derived cosmetic ingredients myself, I wish things were that simple. Formulating with naturals requires a lot of background knowledge, frequently updated information and constant investigation; it is an endless learning curve. Before I dive into the topic, I need to define what I mean by naturals and skin mildness. Note de contenu : - Naturals, what are they ? - Free from chemicals ? - Mildness is a minefield - Residues and the importance of purity - Oxidation and essential oils safety - Microbial contaminants and products safety - Sulfates - Preservatives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SkMtX-AOOyi9V6mlBLZlrvdPX5n94t2-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33965 [article]

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Skin detoxification and sebum control process / Julie Droux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 153-155 Titre : Skin detoxification and sebum control process Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur ; Amandine Werle, Auteur ; Alexandre Lapeyre, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 153-155 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Clarté de la peau Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sébum Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is a very efficient biological protective barrier against pollutants and environmental toxins. However, faced with constantly increasing air pollution, and ever-more foodstuffs loaded with toxins, its natural ability to protect itself could be hindered. Toxins might be found everywhere: in the food we eat, in the water we drink, in the air we breathe, in the soil, in household products in our homes, in our garden. Toxins are defined as toxic substances altering cell and tissue metabolism and causing all kinds of damage. They could be chemicals or pollutants that are absorbed, ingested or inhaled. The body has detoxification organs such as liver, kidneys and skin, able to get rid of these toxins encountered in the course of life. In particular, skin has the ability to neutralise and defend itself against these aggressors coming from the environment or produced by the body. This is called the detoxification process. To support the development of effective care products, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed BioDTox™. This active ingredient is based on three extracts from specific chosen food-origin species known for their potential in revitalising the detoxification process. Detailed investigation of the active’s mode of action shows that by specifically targeting the Nrf2 pathway, it enhances the skin cell detoxification process, which in turn breaks down toxins, protecting the cells against oxidative stress damage and limiting skin disorders. Immediately, sebum is controlled and pores are cleaned. The active ingredient performance was verified through in-depth tests focused on lipid control of acne-prone and oily skin via regulation of sebocytes activation. In parallel, apoptotic protection against oxidative stressors was examined, confirming its ability to control cell death in the face of pollution exposure. The ingredient’s potential to aggregate pollutants in order to ease their elimination by increasing the particle size was also identified, reinforcing the cleaning ability of the active. Finally, clinical evaluations further underline the skin detoxification effect, sebum reduction and brighter skin tone. Note de contenu : - Detoxification process - Food-origin inspiration - Experimental studies : results : Sebocytes lipogenic activity - Oxidative stress and cell damage-induction - Nrf2 pathway : phase II enzyme - Skin depollution and dust particle aggregation - Clinical studies : Skin cleansing - Skin detoxification - Skin radiance and brightness - Fig. 1 : Control of lipid content in sebocytes under testosterone stimulation and cadmium - Fig. 2 : Decrease in amount of dust on the skin and hair surface - Fig. 3 : Enhancement of skin radiance after 8 hours’ exposure to urban pollution En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cr7c1KVXe5Dm0mttWL3o5BmYl7jZzrw_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33966 [article]

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A new fragrance resource for 'natural' products in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 157-158 Titre : A new fragrance resource for 'natural' products Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 157-158 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Développement durable Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfumerie Parfums Produits naturels Règlements (droit administratif) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : More and more brands demand fragrance and other ingredients that are 'natural'. But consumers and CPL Aromas’ customers ask: 'What is natural?'. The answer is far from simple, but CPL has found a solution, according to Angela Stavrevska, perfumer and the company’s global marketing & brand director. CPL Aromas has consolidated years' worth of natural perfumery experience, marketing knowledge and regulatory expertise into their new Naturals Platform – a system by which CPL can advise, educate and create 100% natural fragrances, ensuring their customers’ marketing requirements are at the forefront of every project. Note de contenu : - Greenwashing and 'chemophobia' - Sustainability - Regulations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VXfljPSnOJUTxcGD1DFdlApdfD2zM-_N/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33967 [article]

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Ingredients focus : fragrance ingredients and concepts / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 160-161 Titre : Ingredients focus : fragrance ingredients and concepts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 160-161 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrance gives products an extra dimension and are a calling card for many brands. A high quality scent is difficult to imitate, as is its longevity. Fragrances and their fixatives work in harmony to disseminate the scent and make it last for a long time on the skin, reminding the user of their indulgence. Solublilisers are also key parts of the process, ensuring that oils mix into aqueous solutions. Another important aspect of the industry are development concepts, which help to show formulators what is possible with the latest ingredients from leading suppliers. In this article we take a look at some of the ingredients and new concepts available to formulators seeking to make a real impression with fragrances in their products. Note de contenu : - Fragrance ingredients - Fragrance concepts En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yaf34QURnRyWP3I-CHDcBzUOXJ-ix938/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33968 [article]

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Using natural oils in fragrance : its role in clean beauty / Thomas Kerfoot in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 163-165 Titre : Using natural oils in fragrance : its role in clean beauty Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Kerfoot, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 163-165 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Huiles essentielles Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural oils are our heritage and passion at O&3. So, for us, it is not unexpected to see the popularity of these natural ingredients in the personal care industry - but it can be surprising how versatile oils can be, particularly when it comes to fragrance. Scents and fragrances have always been a key purchase driver for consumers when considering which personal care products to buy. From shampoos to soap bases, butters, lotions and creams, how brTransparency However, despite our love of fragrance, consumers are demanding a new level of transparency from brands and manufacturers. According to Mintel, in the UK, 36% of adults agree that the lack of ingredient information for fragrances is worrying. Consumer-led demand for ‘clean beauty’ products and an increased focus on sustainability has led to a continued drive for ingredient transparency within the beauty and personal care industry. Customers are becoming increasingly astute about ingredients and are often refusing to accept things at face value forcing brands to be more open and honest about their formulations.ands and formulators fragrance a product is a key differentiator. The oils used within those fragrances play a key part in creating the distinguishing smells that so many brands are known for and ultimately drive consumers to purchase. Over half of Europeans (67%) agree that scent is the most important factor influencing a consumer when purchasing liquid soap products and, in the US, 47% of consumers choose shampoo or conditioner based on the fragrance alone. Note de contenu : - Transparency - Essential oils - Cold pressed oils - Formulation considerations - The future for fragrance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WwFKDc7a2O_mDOPxaetIMBHx7HAiR2Ge/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33969 [article]

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Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 167-172 Titre : Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 167-172 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Wrinkle minimization is the Holy Grail of cosmetic actives development. Since the creation of the first anti-aging formulations, the topic has been explored from every angle. The easiest way is of course to cover the skin with foundations to hide those unattractive features of skin ageing. But besides this use of camouflage, there is more which can be done. To understand how to improve or preserve the youthful appearance of the skin we need to know about its underlying biology. The skin is composed basically of three layers: the subcutaneous adipose tissue, the dermis and the epidermis, which protects the body from the environment. Wrinkles only develop in the dermis and epidermis. Because of this, it is important to keep these tissues in a juvenile state. The dermis is a very strong and resilient tissue, which is responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity as well as its hydration. You can think of it in terms of a piece of leather as that is what it actually is; a tightly packed protein mesh consisting mainly of collagen,1 which is responsible for the firmness together with elastin, which is responsible for the elasticity. This tissue is supplemented by moisture-retaining molecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans. The epidermis is even stronger than the dermis and is held together by a huge network of keratin that forms interconnections between the cells of the upper epidermis. It is easy to understand that the firm and elastic skin we had in our childhood requires sufficient quantities of the important components and that any decrease in these, e.g. in collagen and elastin, will affect the restoring potential of the skin. You can readily observe this in real life: if you pinch the skin of a child on the back of their hand, you will see that the skin retracts immediately when you let it go. In contrast, when you do the same to a person aged 80 years and older, this can take up to a minute or even longer. Wrinkles appear at regions where the dermal proteins collagen and elastin are less dense and where the connectivity of the dermis with the epidermis is weakened. This does not happen by chance but is the result of continuous repeated mechanical forces acting on the skin. The first mechanical forces that do this are involved in movement and as a result, the very first wrinkles we have are on the joints of our fingers and palms that are already there when we are born. So, whatever moves will cause wrinkles to develop and therefore our facial expressions will make wrinkles appear on our face sooner or later. Rahn has developed three solutions in its Liftonin® range to fight wrinkles using completely different approaches : 1. Liftonin-Xpress, the instant wrinkle minimizer that employs a surface-acting biopolymer blend. 2. Liftonin for alabaster-like skin is an epidermal astringent thanks to the tannins it contains while it also stabilizes the dermal structure by providing bioavailable silicon. 3. Liftonin-Xpert Eco, the smart and ecological collagen manager improves dermal density by delivering the perfect amount of additional youth collagen. Note de contenu : - Instant wrinkle minimizer - Functional ingredients and efficacy : Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) - Pullulan - Porphyridium Cruentum Extract - For alabaster-like skin - Functional ingredients and efficacy : Tannins and tannic acid: natural astringents derived from oak gallnut - Millet Seed Extract: bioavailable silicon for strong connective tissue - Smart collagen management - Functional ingredients and efficacy : Mannan from Bulbine frutescensleaf juice - Formulation : Ageless eye serum En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19rAZjKHvb_qE3DJKUPeHMox36O_ah7W5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33970 [article]

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Strengthening natural protection against light / Sonia Léglise in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 174-176 Titre : Strengthening natural protection against light Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sonia Léglise, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 174-176 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : ADN mitochondrial Antiâge Biomolécules actives Collagène Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Elastine Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Nitrique, Acide Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Naolys has creted a new complex of Indian jasmine cells enriched with y-mangosteen to develop a unique biological protection for the skin. Jasmin is well-known oriental flower, famed for its scent and its sacred status in Asian religions ; it opens at the end of the day mangosteen is an extract from the fruit of the Asian medicine, it has come to be recognised in the west for its antioxidant properties. Enriched by the synergy with the y-mangosteen, the plant cells increase the bioavailabiliaty of all the active ingredients that they deliver to the skin. Note de contenu : - A NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENT - HOX IT WORKS : Reinforced biological protection - Reduction of damage caused by light - CLINICAL TEST RESULTS : Decrease in signs of ageing after 28 days - two applications/day - IN VITRO TEST RESULTS : Protection the heart of the cells : UV rays - Blue light - Infrared light - Study of abasic ells - Study of mitochondrial DNA - PROTECTING THE FIBRES AND THE POLYSACCHARIDES IN THE DERMIS : THE EXTRA-CELLULAR MATRIX - STUDY OF KEY COMPONENTS IN THE EXTRA-CELLULAR MATRIX : Hyaluronic acid - Collagen - Elastin - REDUCING VASOLIDATION : CUTANEOUS MICROCIRCULATION : Study of nitric oxide the primary EDRF - Fig. 1 : Solar rays and their effects on skin - Fig. 2 : Decrease in signs of ageing after 28 days - Fig. 3 : Study of mitochondrial DNA - Fig. 4 : Study of collagens - Fig. 5 : Study of nitric oxide exposed to three key types of solar radiation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ggCd5jAP5KnReBfWGVJg2p9Dv1t9F73f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33971 [article]

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Strong antioxidant defence from green tea extract / Vanessa E. Rivera in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 179-181 Titre : Strong antioxidant defence from green tea extract Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Vanessa E. Rivera, Auteur ; Timothy C. Duzick, Auteur ; Eric Jourdan, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 179-181 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Cosmétiques Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Plan d'expérience Protection cutanée Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Thé vert et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Green tea extracted via SWE produces a highly effective botanical active that is responsibly sourced and can provide a new twist on traditional green tea actives. The subcritical water extraction used yields a rich bioactive composition resulting in high biological efficacy. Green Tea supports skin barrier health with the restoration of key skin barrier building blocks, Caspase- 14 and filaggrin, which are important for barrier reinforcement and UV protection. With a healthy and intact skin barrier, skin is able to fight external aggressors and prevent the signs of oxidative stress. It also reduces Sunburn Cells more effectively than vitamin E after UV exposure. This Green Tea extract is a powerful active that can support antioxidation and protection claims and can be marketed as a fresh new take on conventional green tea that outperforms the gold standard, vitamin E. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN : High performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) study - RESULTS : HPLC study - Skin barrier default study - UV stress study - Fig. 1 : Skin barrier default study protocol - Fig. 2 : UV stress study protocol - Fig. 3 : HPLC chromatogram comparison of SWE versus methanol extraction - Fig. 4 : Morphology of normal RHE, RHE under cytokines, and RHE with cytokines & green tea - Fig. 5 : Morphology of normal RHE, RHE exposed to UV stress, and after pre-treatment with green tea - Fig. 6 : Evaluation fo sunburn cells En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dEhxEn-EgxE9F5GsxcVHsswq4TDWi2GO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33972 [article]

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Sucrose esters concentrated emulsion technology / François van Etten in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 183-185 Titre : Sucrose esters concentrated emulsion technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François van Etten, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 183-185 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Esters de saccharose Formulation (Génie chimique) Rhéologie Taille des gouttelettes Température Transparence (optique) Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sisterna has studied the efficacy of high HLB sucrose esters for the production of transparent 'oil-gel' emulsions, that turn into milk when diluted with water upon use (gel-to-milk). These oil gels are in fact concentrated oil-in-glycerine (O/G) emulsions with average oil droplet sizes of 0.3 - 0.5 µm. This article shows the study of the concentrated emulsions technology. Note de contenu : - Tested sucrose ester grades - Effect of sucrose ester type on droplet size and viscosity - Effect of oil concentration on droplet size and viscosity - Effect of water on droplet size and viscosity Effect of manufacturing temperature - Transparency : how to influence - Conclusion on gel-to-milk O/G emulsions - One step further : Diluted gel-tomilk concentrated emulsions - The benefits of sucrose esters Sucrose esters and the eco-friendly and simple & effective formulations trend - Table 1 : Basic formulation - Table 2 : Total sucrose esters content - Table 3 : Influencing transparency - Table 4 : Basic formulation - Fig. 1 : Effect of sucrose esters on droplet size and viscosity - Fig. 2 : Effect of oil concentration on droplet size and viscosity - Fig. 3 : Effect of water on droplet size and viscosity - Fig. 4 : Effect of manufacturing temperature - Fig. 5 : Droplet size distribution - Fig. 6 : Viscosity with 3% SP70-C En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Q7YSxITmlD1DGZs_LdXOBX5pPk3ONnA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33973 [article]

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