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Regulatory update for the European Union in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 25-28 Titre : Regulatory update for the European Union Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 25-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union Européenne Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article looks at the amendments that have been made to the European cosmetic Regulation (EC) N° 1223/2009 in 2018. It also looks at the final opinions of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety opinions are a good indicator of how the European cosmetic regulation will evolve in the future. Note de contenu : - Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/885 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/978 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/1847 - Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35 - SCCS Opinions 2018 : SCCS/1586/17 : Water soluble zinc salts used in oral hygiene - SCCS/1594/18 : Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine - SCCS/1596/18 : Colloidal silver (nano) - SCS/1600/18 : Climbazole - CMR omnibus regulation - Hypoallergenic claims - 'Free from' claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q-3axnbRjz00cqo9zTvvmCj-tnZ8VsDf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32228 [article]

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Three skin care ingredients to trend in 2019 and beyond in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 30-31 Titre : Three skin care ingredients to trend in 2019 and beyond Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 30-31 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues Bakuchiol Le Bakuchiol est un méroterpène (composé chimique à structure terpénoïde partielle) de la classe des terpénophénols. On le trouve dans Psoralea corylifolia et dans Otholobium pubescens. (wikipedia) Citrouille et constituants Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With skin care trends coming and going at a faster pace than every it can be hard to keep up with The Next Big Thing. While staying ahead of the curve is paramount for today's beauty brands to stand out in a crowded sector, it can be difficult to determina which novelties are destined to be short-lived social media hypes, an dwhich ones are here to stay. Looking at Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD), we highlight three skin care ingredients that we are confident will grow in popularity in 2019 and beyond. Note de contenu : - BAKUCHIOL : Avene recontouring serum (France) - PUMKIN : Bielenda geve detox broccoli & pumpkin + prebiodic moisturing rream (Poland) - BLUE ALGAE : Niod hydration vaccine (UK) - Nannette de gaspe neck bio-stimulant techstile infusing dry masque (Canada) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SSYaXF0XMS8pMv-u7uyhhDGng0lQA-cj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32230 [article]

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Stem cell activation for a V-shaped face / Franziska Wandrey in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 35-38 Titre : Stem cell activation for a V-shaped face Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 35-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antiâge:Antirides Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As we age, the production of collagen and elastin is reduced, which results in sagging skin that can most notably be observed at the face contours of the jawline. Mesenchymal stem cells have been shown to improve collagen productionsand regenerate the skin, for example during wound healing. These processes are mediated by vesicles known as exosomes which are produced and secreted by these stem cells. A novel active ingredient based on goji plant stem cells was shown to improve the stemness of aged mesenchymal stem cells as well as increase exosome signalling by mesenchymal stem cells, which in turn improves extracellular matrix production in fibroblasts. The improved extracellular matrix rejuvenates the skin by improving skin density, reducing wrinkles and reshaping the face for an improved V-shape of the face Note de contenu : - Cell-to-cell communication via exosomes - Goji - the superfruit - Producing plant stem celle - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Expression of stem cell markers in age MSCs - Quantification of exosome production by MSCs - Gene expression in fibroblasts after treatment with MSC-conditioned medium - Clinical study on photoaged skin - Skin study on oval face shape - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Maintenance of stemness in aged MSCs - Increase in MSC exosome production - Stimulation of extracellular matrix genes through cell-to-cell communication - Improvement of wrinkle depth and skin density in photoaged skin - Improvement of the oval face shape - Fig. 1 : Schematic illustration of exosome signalling between mesenchyma stem cells and fibroblasts - Fig. 2 : Increase in stem cell marker expression in aged mesenchymal stem cells after treatment with goji stem cell extract - Fig. 3 : Increase in exosome production by mesenchymal stem cells after treatment with goji stem cell extract - Fig. 4 : Gene expression of extracellular matrix genes by fibroblasts treated by conditioned medium for either untreated or goji stem cell extract treated mesenchymal stem cells - Fig. 5 : Increase in epidermis + dermis density after 28 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active - Fig. 6 : Representative ultrasound image of the increase in epidermis + dermis density after 28 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active. SLEB = subepidermal low-echogenic band - Fig. 7 : Decrease in wrinkle depth on crow's feet after 56 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active - Fig. 8 : Representative before/after pictures of two volunteers to illustrate the decrease in wrinkle depth on crow's feet after 56 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active - Fig. 9 : Improvement of oval face shape after 28 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active - Fig. 10 : Visibly improved V-shape of the face after 28 days treatment with 0.4 % goji stem cell active En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w9R1CQkBtghzvjHrou4HlI_jaPJoXpPY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32231 [article]

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Efficacy testing of microbiome skin care / Christiane Uhl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 41-45 Titre : Efficacy testing of microbiome skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christiane Uhl, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 41-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Microbiome cutané Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Research on the skin microbiome is a fascinating and trendy topic and will probably evolve further. However, despite the intense research, the microbiome shows huge inter- and intra-individual variation and there has been until now no scientific consensus on its perfect composition. An aspect that still needs more research effort is the influence of cosmetic products on the resident microbiome. What is happening in the microbiome realm when applying oily formulations on skin areas that by nature do not have high sebum production and feature an adapted healthy microbiome ? How can we ensure that added microorganisms will survive in the microbial communities on the skin surface ? And might it be possible that the well¬meant application of probiotic products might have an adverse effect on the skin microbiome, destroying the adapted balance by adding more species of certain bacteria ? The findings that the skin microbiome is essential for skin health pose a challenge to cosmetic industry to develop new products that not only consider traditional skin types such as oily or dry but to widen their understanding of skin types to certain microbiome types. Since the daim behind using formulations modifying, enhancing or feeding the microbiome, is the improvement of skin health and especially the strengthening of the skin barrier function, traditional biophysical testing methods and imaging are well-suited to substantiate health-related claims of such products. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Skin is a natural habitat for a rich variety of microorganisms - Fig. 2 : Culture of sampled microorganisms is the basis for most traditional microbiological tests - Fig. 3 : Tewameter measurement with open measurement chamber does not influence the natural evaporation from the skin - Fig. 4 : The corneometer allows quick and easy hydration measurement at different skin sites - Fig. 5 : Sebum measurement with the sebumeter takes approximately 30 seconds - Fig. 6 : Strong fluorescence of the propionibacterium acnes under UV-illumination of the visiopor camera - Fig. 7 : Calculation of skin texture with visioscan - Fig. 8 : Desquamation mesurement with visioscan using corneofix tape - Fig. 9 : pH-changes may influence microbial association. Their measurement can give valuable information on the efficacy of products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hWJ1CkRaVIGNx0CFjZ1pd8Q0xhbPCvpH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32232 [article]

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Haute couture for the skin delivers self-repair benefits / Justine Cotton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 47-49 Titre : Haute couture for the skin delivers self-repair benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Justine Cotton, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 47-49 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Extraction (chimie) Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : RosalissTM biofunctional is formulated by Ashland from the legendary Rosa centifolia. Also known as the rose of "100 petals", its extract is obtained by plant small RNA technology, a unique patented novel green technology. With this new biofunctional, Ashland brings haute couture to the skin for flawless self-repair and healthy perfection. Note de contenu : - Novel extraction patented green technology with superior efficacy - Innovative cosmetic concept with novel perfect skin repair biomarker (MARKSL1) - miRNA-132 : A skin healing signature - Benefits to manufacturers and consumers - Fig. 1 : Ashland's plant small RNA (PSR) technology process - Fig. 2 : Healing mechanisms - Fig. 3 : MARCSL1 protein levels - Fig. 4 : Epidermal repair test - Table 1 : Collagen I stainin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xn7ctK_0gMJrNmaUd7dURvNgWVDr_wOH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32233 [article]

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Beautiful skin via sustainable technology / Pascale Goyat in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 51-54 Titre : Beautiful skin via sustainable technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pascale Goyat, Auteur ; George Rosson, Auteur ; Lucie Brun, Auteur ; Sébastien Barré, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Algues unicellulaires Biotechnologie marine Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Within the context of urban development, pollution poses a threat to health in ail parts of the world. Some particles can be twenty times smaller than the pores of the skin and various types of pollution can affect the skin and interfere with its healthy balance. The skin is the largest organ in the human body and one of the most important barriers against pollution. To counteract the pollutant effects, Natura-Tec's philosophy is to combine ingredient innovations with unique Bio ecological Sustainable Technology to propose solutions in compliance with industry, social, cultural and ethical criteria worldwide. Microalgae technology offers much more than a simple marketing effort in terms of real benefits to our industry and represents a contribution to the protection of our environment and of human beings. Note de contenu : - IN VITRO STUDIES : Anti-pollution effect : protection from indoor & urban dust - Environmental stress defence : maintains energetic metabolism - IN VIVO STUDY : Skin tone homogeneity : reduces redness and dark spot appearance - Fig. 1 : The closed-circuit waste recycling system - Fig. 2 : Mitochondria - Fig. 3 : Protection against indoor dust (72h) - Fig. 4 : Protection against urban dust (72h) - Fig. 5 : Cytosolic ATP rate variation under stress conditions - Fig. 6 : Mitochondrial membrane potential level variation under stress conditions - Fig. 7 : Procollogen neosynthesis under stress conditions - Fig. 8 : Average spot surface variation after 30 days of use with a cream containing 1.5 % Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP - Fig. 9 : Average spot surface variation after 30 days of use with a cream containing 1.5 % Natura-Tdc Marine Cellshield AP En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mIU49-FOYzy34vCy33_eIcmkwSSKWXEP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32234 [article]

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Barrier repair activity of Elula Kalahari melon seed oil in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 57-60 Titre : Barrier repair activity of Elula Kalahari melon seed oil Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 57-60 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emollients Huile de pépins de melon Melons et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Elula Kalahari Melon Seed Oil (Kupanda Ltd) from Citrullus lanatus (INCI : Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil) originates from the western Kalahari region of Namibia and Botswana, where it can be found in the wild in a diversity of forms together with other Citrullus species (Fig 1). It is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, of which pumpkins and melons are widely known. The fruits and seeds are used in different ways in different countriesl and in the Kalahari region in Africa, C. lanatus is often used as a source of drinking water. The seeds are commonly roasted and salted for nutritional purposes. Known since the time of ancient Egyptians, the oil has been anecdotally used to care for the skin to maintain its healthy appearance." The oil is light in texture and therefore considered a highly suitable emollient for cosmetic formulations Note de contenu : - Dry skin - Unique lipid content - Fragmented data - Antioxidant content - Linoleic acid & barrier function - Elula Kalahari melon seed oil performance - Skin barrier recovery - Concluding remarks and future perspective - Fig. 1 : Elula Kalahari melon seeds and oil - Fig. 2 : Microscopic evaluation of filaggrin expression in delipidised skin at T24 hours En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sCrvXjOM6Qghpl3deTqjJiboWHUTA1_p/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32235 [article]

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A personal Faraday shield for a radiant, high-tech world / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 63-69 Titre : A personal Faraday shield for a radiant, high-tech world Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 63-69 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caroténoides Les caroténoïdes sont des pigments plutôt orange et jaune répandus chez de très nombreux organismes vivants. Liposolubles, ils sont en général facilement assimilables par les organismes. Ils appartiennent à la famille chimiques des terpénoïdes, formés à partir de la polymérisation d'unités isoprènes à structure aliphatique ou alicyclique. Il est généralement admis qu'ils suivent des voies métaboliques similaires à celles des lipides. Ils sont synthétisés par toutes les algues, toutes les plantes vertes et par de nombreux champignons et bactéries (dont les cyanobactéries). Cosmétiques Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Peau -- Propriétés optiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Rayonnement électronique Rayonnements -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Radiation outside the UV-range is one of the most unexplored threats for our skin. For sure, we protect ourselves against UV light but forget the high-energy visible light fraction. However, not only blue light increases the ROS load in keratinocytes leading to skin barrier damage and premature skin ageing. Our modem, highly connected world with permanent access to the internet and communication devices emits a tremendous amount of radiation. A large fraction is WiFi radiation in the range of microwaves. To protect our cell membranes and skin barrier, we need anti-oxidants active in the depth of the membranes to prevent deep lipid peroxidation, followed by functional impairment of these structures. Radicare®-Gold is the skin's personal Faraday shield made from natural carotenoids to reduce the ROS load provoked from any source. Note de contenu : - DIGITAL SKIN AGEING IN THE MODERN WORLD : The balance of intrinsic ROS-production and elimination - The skin's own 'Faraday shield' - Carotenoids : the perfect natural solution - METHODS - RESULTS : T. obliquus carotenoids absorb HEV light - T. obliquus carotenoids alleviate cellular oxidative stress - T. obliquus carotenoids reduce WiFi-induced oxidative stress - T. obliquus carotenoids reduces lipid peroxidation and strenghten the skin barrier En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kFVvg_TH8xUoWKcqZx7fI4tfz69f-F52/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32236 [article]

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Eco-friendly strategy to improve body silhouette in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 71-74 Titre : Eco-friendly strategy to improve body silhouette Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 71-74 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Bergamotte et constituants Biocosmétiques Cellulite Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Body imperfections are 'evergreen aesthetic problems' that affect both women and men of different ages. If cellulite is a 'privilege' almost exclusive to women, given the structure of their subcutaneous adipose tissue,' sagging skin, loss of tone or love handles do not make distinctions, involving both genders. Behind these imperfections there are several factors and causes such as inflammation, hormonal imbalances, diet, genetic predispositions, sedentary lifestyle. Counteracting body imperfections is often a challenge for consumers, because it requires an important effort. Therefore, they look for multi-target products able to act as fast as they can. Moreover, most consumers have been applying the principle of sustainability to their lifestyle, including obviously their personal care routine as well. As a consequence, cosmetic manufactures are focusing their efforts to produce ingredients that, among their features, are highly-effective and eco-friendly. Bionap, since its foundation in 1997, is in line with this growing demand and produces cosmetic ingredients using by¬products and co-products of the Mediterranean agro-alimentary industry. In order to counteract cellulite-derived skin imperfections and to improve body silhouette, Bionap has developed Flavoslim, a sustainable ingredient obtained from bergamot juice. Note de contenu : - Bergamot - Effect of Citrus bergamia extract on blood and lymphatic microcirculation - Lipolytic activity of Citrus bergamia extract : superficial adipose tissue (SAT) thickness measurement - Effect of Citrus bergamia extract on thigh and arm circumference - Effect of Citrus bergamia extract on skin elasticity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19JhC-mBDFmuVIEM2fQ9_oL95jwHqpTZt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32237 [article]

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Soothing effect dedicated to sensitive skin / Anne Charpentier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 76-77 Titre : Soothing effect dedicated to sensitive skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 76-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée Tests cutanés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Major innovations in the perception objectivation remain to corne if one considers the latest research on sounds, taste, smell or vision receptors present in the keratinocytes as specified by Mr Briand (INRA), and Mrs Broussard (Shiseido), during the recent JP Marty days on the topic of barrier function. In complementary ways, testing innovations will be initiated with new active developments, without talking about the most promising role of cannabinoids in the treatment of itching. The more the mechanisms behind the sensitive skin phenomenon will be understood, the more cosmetic industries will be able to offer effective and durable solutions to treat sensitive skins, through the elaboration of formulations targeted specifically to these mechanisms. Note de contenu : - Analysing the sensitive skin phenomenon - Formulating for sensitive skin - Table 1 : Test methods En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tmSnzzku57OTt8gNLtsTqnIGPQpe3fND/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32238 [article]

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A bright 'star' in the anti-acne universe in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 79-81 Titre : A bright 'star' in the anti-acne universe Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 79-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Anti-inflammatoires Antimicrobiens Antioxydants Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Etude in vitro Etudes cliniques Exfoliants Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Among all the dermatoses, Acne vulgaris is the most common multifactorial disease in patients between 11 and 30 years old, as it affects up to 80% of people belonging to this age segment. Moreover, due to its high diffusion in the population and to its significant morbidity, it causes both physically and psychologically side-effects on patients, in terms of scarring, depression, anxiety and low self-esteem. Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory disorder in which many agents can act as triggers : androgens, drugs, genetic factors, regulating neuropeptides and environmental factors, such as pollution and UV radiation. Regardless of the causes, however, in all the patients affected by Acne vulgaris the following symptoms have been observed: an excessive sebum production, an excessive keratosis of excretory ducts - and the consequent transition from microcomedones to comedones- , the development of bacterial flora (especially Propionibacterium acnes) and the release of inflammatory mediators in the skin. Given these manifestations, Star Anise Extract is the new active ingredient able to provide an effective and complete activity on all the symptoms associated to an acne-prone skin. With 100% naturel origin, it is characterised by a high value of shikimic acid (⩾ 15% w/w). Note de contenu : - More than food - Materials and methods - Clinical test results - In vitro test results - Anti-microbial activity - Anti-inflammatory activity - Exfoliating activity - Antioxidant activity - Fig. 1 : Number oc comedones - in vivo test - Fig. 2 : Decrease of sebum and number of comedones - Fig. 3 : Study of inflammation mediator En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oN0HbRd0csKnnpjEM9hOYyKKcvi2scUh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32239 [article]

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Your ally for natural urban skin protection / Stéphanie Alves in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 83-86 Titre : Your ally for natural urban skin protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphanie Alves, Auteur ; Fayçal Ounnas, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 83-86 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Extraction (chimie) Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Flavonoïdes Glucides Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pollution is present everywhere in urban areas. Indoor, outside, skin is exposed to pollution all day long. How can you protect your skin from this constant stress ? Biolie has figured it out for you! Pollution is composed of pesticides, heavy metals, particles and other harmful chemicals that will disrupt skin barrier function and microbiota. It will produce several intracellular damages by oxidative stress, activation of mitochondrial AhR, ATP production decrease and inflammation. Rich in citroflavonoids and saccharides, Biolime will work in and out of skin to fight against pollution damage. Note de contenu : - The art of enzymatic extraction - A bio-guiding tool - Extract of lime co-product - Urban dust - A standard approved by FDA - Urban dust and mitochondria dysfunction - Mitochondria protection - Polyphenols - the key to the activity ? - Fig. 1 : Patented enzymatic extraction process - Fig. 2 : Biorefinery concept - Fig. 3 : Screenzyme bio-guiding tool - Fig. 4 : Biolime extraction process - Fig. 5 : Urban pollution damages by including oxidative stress, mitochondria dysfunction and inflammation - Fig. 6 : Olive Tail Moment measurement on epidermal keratinocytes. ANOVA, significant test p<0.01 (n=3) - Fig. 7 : Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) measurement on epidermal keratinocyte ANOVA, significant test p<0.05 (n=3) - Fig. 8 : Citroflavonoids present in Biolime - Table 1 : Biolime profile - Table 2 : Characteristics En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HsWITlA3EodlX6uv2tnTZKN3_YXYNfoq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32240 [article]

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An alternative to silicone for hair care / Sabrina Mizaël in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 89-91 Titre : An alternative to silicone for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabrina Mizaël, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 89-91 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes Brillance (optique) Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Emollients Peignage Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetic market is in a continuai search for more innovative, functional and environmentally-friendly ingredients. This statement is especially true for the hair care market, seeking alternatives for silicone oils. Globally, the number of silicone-free shampoo launches has increased in recent years : 56% of the shampoos launched do not contain silicone. Moreover, 13% claim "silicone-free" (source Mintel). Some of these mythical oils are now limited by regulation. This is the case of both D4 and D5. These materials are now limited to 0.1% in the rinse-off products due to their very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) nature. D4 is also considered a persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) substance. In addition to being non-biodegradable, silicone oils also have an impact on the environment due to their industrial production process which has a high carbon footprint. EmosmartTM and Emogreen TM, which have received several industry awards, are readily biodegradable and endowed with sensory attractiveness and hair care efficiency. These two emollient ranges respond to both market and consumers' demand. Note de contenu : - Readily biodegradable an dhigh purity alkanes - One step closer to sustainable and responsible cosmetics - hair beauty - hair strength - Did you say specific hair needs ? - Emollients for all types of stressful formulations - Fig. 1 : Hair shine measurment (Caucasian hair - Rinse-off) - Fig. 2 : Wet combing (Caucasian hair - Rinse-off) - Fig. 3 : Fiber repair (Caucasian hair - Rinse-off) - Fig. 4 : Volume & frizz control at 80% (Brazilian hair - Rinse-off) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LuiZPUE3KvGEFT4e8t_VkD92J1RRGXaJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32241 [article]

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Sensory changes by minimally disruptive technology / Tony O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 93-96 Titre : Sensory changes by minimally disruptive technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tony O'Lenick, Auteur ; David Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 93-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cosmétiques Emulsifiants Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silicone polymers have the unique ability to lower the surface tension of organic oils and thereby present a different aesthetic effect in cosmetic formulations. Thi$ allows silicone polymers to be added at less than 10% concentration and often less than 5% concentration and provide a different customer experience than achieved by standard silicones. Since the formulation is 90%+ identical to the starting formulation, the time and work needed to evaluate change is minimised. Likewise, the toxicology of the formulation, the need for many raw materials and the cost change is minimised. Note de contenu : - Surface tension modification - Importance of proper sensory - Moisturiser : Analysis of moisturiser - Sensory evaluation of moisturiser - formulation evaluation summary - Re-formulation - Table 1 : Formulation for moisturiser - Table 2 : Analysis of moisturiser - Table 3 : Sensory evaluation - Table 4 : Moisturiser with cationic silicone emulsifier - Table 5 : Analysis of moisturiser - Table 6 : Feel evaluation of FC 367 series and FC368 - Fig. 1 : Sensory modification by silicone addition - Fig. 2 : Sensory modification (all formulations) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F9RqEIlTPJrru4VmC6SvPDEd7hM6Bqvm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32242 [article]

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Changes in sun care : UV protection and beyond / karolina Krupinska in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 99-102 Titre : Changes in sun care : UV protection and beyond Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : karolina Krupinska, Auteur ; Felix Wilson, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 99-102 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bronzage Cosmétiques Lumière bleue Polluants atmosphériques Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Rayonnement infrarouge Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modern consumers lead busy lives and are becoming increasingly demanding of the products that they purchase. Although most consumers are aware that excessive sun exposure can be dangerous, everyday use of sunscreen products is often neglected. Manufacturers are therefore motivated to constantly improve sun care products to make them more aesthetically pleasing, as well as effective. High efficiency, multi-functionality, and easy application are crucial to the modern sun care product. Note de contenu : - THE IMPORTANCE OF PRODUCT AESTHETICS AND CORRECT APPLICATION - PRODUCT FORM : Emulsions - Sticks - UV FILTERS : AVOIDING ISSUES AND OBTAINING IDEAL PERFORMANCE : High SPF products - PROTECTION BEYOND UV LIGHT : Protection from pollutants - Blue light and infrared radiations - Sunless tanning En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Fafa7zP_TKGqBWRmruiINsT0nywGtAi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32248 [article]

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Developing mild body cleansing products / Syed H. Abbas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 105-109 Titre : Developing mild body cleansing products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Syed H. Abbas, Auteur ; Muzammil Amir, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 105-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Savon Savon liquide Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With the increased health consciousness and change in lifestyles with time, it has become very important for companies associated with soap and cosmetic products to develop formulations which are safe and mild for their application on the body. The environmental conditions, global warming, and excessive use of chemical fertilisers all have forced consumers to be highly conscious of their health. Variations in weather conditions during the year have different requirements for product properties. Depending upon the location, the weather conditions are different in different countries which have an impact on the product attributes. Improved financial standards have created demand for mild products with attractive packaging and good aesthetics. Consumers are now slowly moving from economy to luxury products with an assumption that luxury products are better in quality and are suitable for health. These challenges have created a highly competitive market with a lot of effort from multinationals as well as small players to focus on Research and Development to create new and innovative technologies depending upon the consumer need. The substantiation of the claims needs extensive clinical and consumer test support. Note de contenu : - EFFECT OF SURFACTANTS ON PRODUCTS MILDNESS - SKIN PH AND SURFACTANT BINDING : Superfatted soap - Combars - Syndet bars - Low TFM soaps - Transparent soaps - Liquid products - Soap based liquid formulation - Non soapy actives - METHODES OF CLINICAL STUDIES FOR ESTIMATION OF MILDNESS : Zein solubility test - Flex wash test - Patch test - Forearm Controlled Applicationtest (FCAT) - Fig. 1 : Hydrophilic and hydrophobic parts of the molecule - Fig. 2 : Liquid phases of surfactant - Fig. 3 : Syndet bar chemical structures - Fig. 4 : Mixture of laurate and oleate - Table 1 : General formula for bar soap - Table 2 : Superfatted soap formulation - Table 3 : Typical formulation for Combar - Table 4 : Syndet bar formulation - Table 5 : General formulation for low TFM soap - Table 6 : Typical formula for translucent soap - Table 7 : Transparent soap formulation - Table 8 and 9 : Soap based liquid formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqFqwSpYrnau4WoVs1iDuDCg75T5wJP5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32249 [article]

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Syndet cleansing bars : the better 'soap' ? / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 111-114 Titre : Syndet cleansing bars : the better 'soap' ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur ; Torsten Krohn, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 111-114 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Lingettes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits nettoyants Savon Solutions aqueuses (chimie) Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Flashback to the 1930s: "The principal object of the invention is to provide a soap composition which is totally stable in the presence of hard water, strongly alkaline or acid waters, producing no insoluble precipitates whatever".' This fundamental statement was made by Heinrich Bertsch in his patent "Soap Preparation". It proves that already more than 80 years ago proposais were made to overcome a well-known drawback of classical soaps: Precipitation in water. There are two chemical reactions of soaps - the alkali salts of fatty acids - (Fig 1) which cause the precipitates. Both of them "knock-out" typical surfactant properties like cleansing and foaming. Firstly, the reaction of soaps with magnesium and particularly calcium ions in hard water leads to water-insoluble precipitates (lime soap). Lime soap is difficuit to remove from hard surfaces like wash basins. Secondly, even at neutral pH conditions, soaps to a great extent become fatty acids by protonation (Fig 2). Then they are (nearly) water-insoluble. This chemical reaction is the background of the statement given above:' The instability of pure soaps in 'acid waters'. The protonation is directly linked to the creation of an alkaline solution (Fig 2) and leads to a pH of soap solutions of about 9 —11. For cosmetic applications this behaviour is considered the major drawback in using solid soap bars, as the pH of the skin is about 5.0 to 5.5. It is easily understandable that skin cleansing in a non-natural pH-range may stress the skin. Therefore, for cosmetic applications there is a trend for pH-skin neutral products, which protect the skin by not damaging the natural acid layer. In this article we present some Insider'-tricks to create solid cleansing bars with neutral or even skin-neutral pH-values when dissolved in water. Note de contenu : - Focus on soaps in aqueous solutions - Sulfate surfactants : as co-surfactants for 'combo bars' - Sulfonate surfactants : as soap replacement for 'syndet bars' - Composition of solid cleansing bars : syndets versus soaps - Aesthetic aspects - Tailor-made products - Amino acid surfactants - carboxylate-based alternatives to soaps ? - A comeback of solid cleansing bars in Europe ? - Fig. 1 : Soap (sodium laurate) - Fig. 2 : Protonation of soaps : creating fatty acids and an alkaline solution (OH-) - Fig. 3 : Sodium fatty alcohol sulfate - Fig. 4 : Sulfonate surfactants : disodium alkyl sulfo sucinate and sodium acyl isethionate - Fig. 5 : Transparent solid cleansing bars - Fig. 6 : Zschimmer & Schwarz raw material for producing solid cleansing bars - Fig. 7 : Amino acid-based surfactants : Sodium acyl sarcosinate and sodium acyl glutamate - Fig. 8 : Zetesap-Types : "exceptionally creamy foam" En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q2UHFg-NAgJmheFJggsgOZnMMfJBZjSd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32250 [article]

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Cannabis beauty products : a growing influence / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 121-123 Titre : Cannabis beauty products : a growing influence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 121-123 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cannabis et constituants Cosmétiques Extraction (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With new superfoods emerging seemingly every week and pressure to find natural actives that deliver noticeable skin and hair benefits, one plant source has been overlooked in many regions because of its association with recreational drug use. But with prohibition lifted in an increasing number of key markets, cannabis-based beauty products are now seeing an enormous spike in popularity. The therapeutic benefits of cannabis have been documented in a wide number of areas, such as ; epilepsy, chronic pain, slowing the onset of Alzheimer's, and improving heart health.' Widespread campaigns to enable access to cannabis-derived drugs have perhaps dissolved some of the negative stereotypes associated with cannabis and encouraged a re-evaluation of this powerful and multifunctional ingredient. But focusing on benefits to skin, cannabis again has a wide range of potential attributes. Even discounting the oil itself, hemp fibres are used in cosmetic powders for rheology modifying effects (see Natpure Fibers from Sensient). The oil has been shown to have anti-ageing, anti-acne and skin sensitivity benefits ? Note de contenu : - Extraction and delivery methods - CBD - Regulatory evolution in the US and beyond - Market examples : Estée Lauder's origins - Hello calm : relaxing and hydrating face mask with cannabis sativa oil - Hemptouch - Balancing cream - The body shop - Hemp hand protector - Prime CBD - THE FUTURE FOR CBD En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y5ZjvSvtv0A3LAY-Ikm83eFjTL7leRs-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32252 [article]

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Ingredients focus : fragrance concepts / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 124-125 Titre : Ingredients focus : fragrance concepts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 124-125 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ingrédients cosmétiques Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The scent of a product speaks to the unconscious mind, and as a result can be enormously powerful. As well as providing emotional references to products, the scent can also act as an olfactory advertisement, promoting the product to people within close proximity to the user who can then provide that most sought after buying prompt : personal recommendation. Fragrance has had a major part to play also with the domination of naturels in the cosmetics market. It is all well and good consumers being told there are natural ingredients in a product, but it is the scent that really delivers the message to the consumer. Fresh, fruity or exotic, the scent can temporarily transport the recipient to another place, giving weight and context to the marketing message. Note de contenu : - Fragrance ingredients En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17sLvEqj7fvRnKJL76n8d8pdmR_TPuRf5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32253 [article]

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Essential oils : the market and its issues analysed / Dean Lockton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 127-129 Titre : Essential oils : the market and its issues analysed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dean Lockton, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 127-129 Note générale : Bibiogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Assurance qualité Falsification -- Lutte contre Huiles essentielles Normalisation Spécifications Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Adulteration : Intentional actions of adulteration - Quality control : the roles of standards : International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 9235:2013 - Specification - Quality assurance. Trusted source En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BG7pCi7vzB3tEB-jC1hbuRL1x5Z9W-J-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32254 [article]

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Superfruits to delight the health-conscious consumer / Anja Reissig in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 130-131 Titre : Superfruits to delight the health-conscious consumer Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anja Reissig, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 130-131 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Fruits -- Emploi en cosmétologie Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The desire for a healthy and balanced lifestyle has led to the rising popularity of chia seeds, goji bernes and kale in recent years. Today, so-called superfoods are no longer only found in health food stores and on Hollywood star's plates, but also increasingly often in drugstores. Marketing specialist Anja Reissig from Bell Flavors & Fragrances comments on superfruits and the demand for innovative product concepts when it cornes to personal care products. Note de contenu : - The significance of superfruits in cosmetics - How the trend emerged - The success of the superfruit concept - Definition of superfood - New superfood trends - Fragrances of the less known superfruits - Adding value to products - Recommended botanical extracts - Trend cycles En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xs0_05OYXkQFpJNlSCZ61UOPsjoF1JSy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32255 [article]

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Expression lines targeted via both synaptic pathways / Miriam Mateu in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 137-140 Titre : Expression lines targeted via both synaptic pathways Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miriam Mateu, Auteur ; Ariadna Grau-Campistany, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Patricia Carulla, Auteur ; Julia A. Boras, Auteur ; Mikel Gorostiaga, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 137-140 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Munapsys demonstrated action on both pre- and post-synaptic pathways. It competed against Munc18-1 for its binding with syntaxin which is essentiel for the SNARE formation and it reduced the levels of ACh release by the pre-synaptic vesicles in the neuron. It also acted on AChR clustering, muscle membrane depolarization, calcium mobilisation and actomyosin cross-bridge and sliding. Finally, its efficacy as a wrinkle smoother was evaluated against a combination of benchmarks (covering both pathways) and proved to be similar or better at a lower concentration. In addition, Munapsys also presented good results in the lifting of sad smiles. We conclude that Munapsys could be considered a real upgrade in the botulinum toxin-like ingredients field. Note de contenu : - Munc18-1/Syntaxin-1 binding assay - Pre-synaptic neurotransmitter release - Post-synaptic gene expression modulation - Calcium mobilisation in the sarcoplasm - Myosin quantification - Human neuron-muscle contraction - Double-blind assessment of anti-wrinkles efficacy - Lifting sad smiles - Fig. 1 : Munapsys modulates both pre- and post-synaptic pathways - Fig. 2 : Myosin decrease in human mature skeletal myocytes treated with Munapsys - Fig. 3 : Frequency of contraction in a co-culture ofhuman motor neurons and human muscle cells compared with a benchmark - Fig. 4 : Roughness improvement in a panel of volunteers that tested 3% Munapsys and a placebo - Fig. 5 : Crow's feet images with PRIMOS of a volunteer of 37 years old that experienced a reduction in maximum wrinkle depth of 36.9 % after applying 3% Munapsys before and after 14 days. Volunteer of the panel that applied the 3% Munapsys and placebo - Fig. 6 : Higher or similar efficacy wrinkle improvement with 3% Munapsys than with 5% benchmark - Fig. 7 : Crow's feet image with PRI MOS of a volunteer of 45 years old with an improvement in wrinkle volume of 32.0% after applying 3% Munapsys before and after 7 days. Volunteer of the panel that applied 3% Munapsys and 5% benchmarks - Fig. 8 : Images of a volunteer of 51 years old that improved the dropping of the commissures by 16.7% after applying a cream with 3% Munapsys before and after 28 days En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14vCSwwa3XdZzAeeQFo8t65YxWAeSbzzB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32257 [article]

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Formulation concepts for active people / Martina Heldermann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 143-145 Titre : Formulation concepts for active people Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 143-145 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Consommateurs -- Préférences Formulation (Génie chimique) Sportifs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Convenient beauty kits that are easy to transport and are functional — no spillage, easy to dispense and involve one-step routines — are hitting the shelves as fast as millennials are hitting the gym. Athleisure beauty is one of the latest trends set to make a mark on the global beauty and personal care industry. A study found that 48% of Brazilian consumers practice regular physical activity, 36% of which do it for their wellbeing. In Europe, 53% of Italian consumers are interested in body cosmetic products specific to their sport. And finally, 59% of Chinese users of face care declare themselves ready to do more exercise to improve their skin. Thus, this trend is confirmed with a global dimension, in which cosmetics find their legitimacy in consumers around the world. Therefore for the ones who work out vigorously or sunbathe on the beach, KahlWax has innovative formulation concepts that offer protection, do not run down the face, or clog the pores. What is more, perfectly prepared skin gives more confidence that shows ! Note de contenu : - Formulation 1 : Iron Man - Formulation 2 : Freezer burn protector - Formulation 3 : It's no crime to prime - Formulation 4 : Pout perfector En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k7Rv2gx_mUip3uN6m5RdJqcpGc9lQBg9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32258 [article]

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Natural micellar thickening with glutamate surfactants / Yana Bykov in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 147-150 Titre : Natural micellar thickening with glutamate surfactants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yana Bykov, Auteur ; Swetlana Scherbakow, Auteur ; Martina Spiegel, Auteur ; Martin Husmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 147-150 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Glutamique, Acide L'acide glutamique ou glutamate (la forme anionique de l'acide glutamique) est l'un des 20 acides-α-aminés naturels constituant les protéines. Sa chaîne latérale contient un résidu carboxyle, ce qui en fait un acide aminé « acide », dicarboxylique, polaire. Ingrédients cosmétiques Micelles Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Amino-acid based surfactants have been widely used in the last two decades in personal care products as well as in household, industrial and institutional cleaners due to a lot of advantages. They are very anionic surfactants, which do not lead to dry skin4 and protect it from the negative influence of severe surfactante' such as SLS and SLES, by their use as co-surfactants. Additionally to good cleansing properties they show perfect foam formation. Herewith a high micro-porosity of foam supports its creaminess and stability. Amino-acid based surfactants are readily biodegradable and demonstrate extremely low toxicity. These two benefits are very important for creating ecologically pure products without a negative impact on the environment. Glutamic acid based surfactants occupy a special position in this range of surface active ingredients because they can be obtained completely from renewable plant sources. This fact enables their application also for COSMOS and NaTrue certified naturel personal care products. Until now, the thickening of formulations based on these "green" surfactants represents the main problem with their application. In this case, addition of salt does not give the desired effect. Therefore it was necessary to use water-soluble polymers, such as xanthan gum or acrylates that affects sensory experience and appearance of the final product. Recently it has been found that, using a combination of sodium salt of cocoyl or lauroyl glutamate with lauryl glucoside, a sufficiently high viscosity of the end product is achieved at a standard surfactant concentration in absence of a thickening agent. Based on this knowledge, Schill + Seilacher GmbH has developed a new product line, Rheo2Green, which are ready-to-use surfactant blend concentrates. They simply should be diluted and do not require an addition of further surfactants. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : The Rheo2Green range - Table 2 : Compatibility of Rheo2Green1 with typical rinse-off ingredients in terms of homogeneity and viscosity - Formulation 1 : "Green thickened shampoo" based on Rheo2Green2 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_O3GSN5IRzFXBpHdjGoiO3m6BiXrPzBu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32259 [article]

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Modern life de-synchronises skin wellbeing / Julie Droux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 152-154 Titre : Modern life de-synchronises skin wellbeing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 152-154 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau -- analyse Rythmes circadiens Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Wellbeing is a pleasant state resulting from the satisfaction needs of the body and the calmness of the mind. Ultimately, a healthy mind and body are seen as the way to reach wellbeing and happiness. People aim to find a better balance of life, adopting wellness activities. This has translated into a strong consumer demand in many markets — ranging from healthy and organic food to alternative medicine, beauty care to detox, sports activities to mindfulness, green tourism to a healthy home. Consumers are looking for alternatives in line with a more sustainable and ethical way of life. Pure and natural products are top of the shopping lists in all fields. Note de contenu : - An environment full of stressors - Stress and beauty: a contradiction - The circadian rhythm : an internal dock that governs all our cells - The circadian rhythm is controlled by 4 main genes - A dysregulated circadian rhythm can alter skin biological functions and affect its appearance - Taking inspiration from plants to resynchronise skin - Unique model of synchronised skin - Skin wellbeing : radiant and rested complexion - Fig. 1 : Synchronised and desynchronised circadian rhythm, characterised by two key parameters "phase and amplitude" - Fig. 2 : Impact of modern lifestyle stress on skin circadian rhythm synchronisation - Fig. 3 : Control of circadian rhythm and protection against the harmful effect of blue light on the natural cycle En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ri8_HS8dAXqPX_e7N7VM9SdgpM0P8I6T/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32260 [article]

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Intelligent ageing repair with skin superfoods / M.L. Vàzquez-Gonzàlez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 157-162 Titre : Intelligent ageing repair with skin superfoods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M.L. Vàzquez-Gonzàlez, Auteur ; G. Rodríguez, Auteur ; L. Rubio, Auteur ; J. Nestor, Auteur ; E. Fernandez, Auteur ; Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, Auteur ; O. López, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 157-162 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Alimentation Aliments Antiâge:Antirides Antioxydants Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Détoxication métabolique d'une substance Etudes cliniques Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Régénération (biologie) Statistiques Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The many environmental factors related to modem lifestyle generate a skin imbalance that leads to premature ageing. In this study, we evaluate the capacity of a new skin delivery system based on bicosomes (named bicosome-xanthin) to provide intense detox and revert the signs of ageing. This system was specially designed to incorporate, stabilise and deliver microalgae extract into deep skin layers. Bicosome¬xanthin proved to be effective in protecting the skin against pollution particles and to prevent 90% of the damage caused by blue light. This extraordinary ingredient also proved in vivo to boost the skin's antioxidant capacity and barrier function, to accelerate epidermal cell renewal, improve skin brightness and firmness, and visibly reduce wrinkles. Note de contenu : - IN VITRO EFFICACY STUDIES : Protecting the skin against pollution - Preventing damage caused by exposure to blue light - IN VIVO EFFICACY STUDIES : Intensifying detox : increasing the skin's antioxidant capacity - Rejuvenation : accelerating epidermis cell renewal - Brightening the skin - Strengthening skin barrier function : decreasing water loss - Reverting sagging : improving skin firmness - Visible reduction of wrinkles - Clinical evaluation - Statistical studies En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PWaI_npvaaQCxABnkEyh5SwigOw0cmOV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32261 [article]

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Innovative textures for your toolkit / Alice Miles in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 164-166 Titre : Innovative textures for your toolkit Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alice Miles, Auteur ; Peter Clark, Auteur ; Tony Gough, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 164-166 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Texturants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Texture plays a vital part in the overall experience of a personal care product and it can take a great deal of experience before a formulator can confidently adjust the texture of a product subtly to achieve the desired feel. However, ingredient suppliers make it their goal to take some of the trial and error out of the process and give formulators ingredients that can instantly transform formulations, delivering 'wow' factor. Here we highlight that it is not essential to stick to classical products when developing your next formulation. This article will illustrate how Innospec's ingredients work to formulate those transforming textures, solid textures, light and fresh formulations, oils and jellies, and more. Note de contenu : - THE POWER TO TRANSFORM : Transformative ingredients - Prototype formulation - SOLID TEXTURES : Ingrediens for solid textures - Prototype formulation - LIGHT AND FRESH TEXTURES : Light and fresh ingredients - Prototype formulation - OILS AND JELLY OIL TEXTURES : Oil and jelly oil ingredients - Prototype formulation - LATEST CRAZES : Ingredients for the latest crazed - Prototype formulation - Even more examples - Formulation 1 : Milky macadamia cleanser S0198 - Formulation 2 : Powder-to-foam facial wash S0202 - Formulation 3 : Light years away serum S0199 - Formulation 4 : Oil-gel make-up remover S0203 - Formulation 5 : Bouncy bubble bath S0192 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14bVCfqY8F-Om7OO1YuubJFR8g414SkE3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32262 [article]

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Crocus sativus flower extract restores circadian rhythm / Hélène Foliguet in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 171-174 Titre : Crocus sativus flower extract restores circadian rhythm Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hélène Foliguet, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 171-174 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Rythmes circadiens Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Sun is known for its effects, often damaging, on the body but also on the cutaneous tissue. For this reason, photoprotection is one of the most important concerns of the cosmetic and personal care industry. Active ingredients suppliers aim to understand the mechanisms of skin's self-defence, and to provide the best products to fight those external aggressions. Note de contenu : - Sun's effects o skin - Chrono protector effect of Crocus sativus flower extract - Photoprotective effiecy of Crocus sativus flower extract : Antioxidant - Transglutaminase-1 - Sunburn cells - SPF booster En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Yawa3AMOZcAhU4NyyOLFw8W1MLCDRVv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32266 [article]

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Formulations for superfoods and customisable beauty / Elisabeth Dufton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019) . - p. 177-179 Titre : Formulations for superfoods and customisable beauty Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elisabeth Dufton, Auteur ; James Hodgkinson, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 177-179 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alimentation Aliments Biocosmétiques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Superfood movement is a tangible concept that consumers follow to fee good, healthy and balanced within this current modem stressful environment. It is easily recognised that foodstuffs that are eaten for health within, can also be utilised on the outside for complimentary benefits. Embracing this trend has the potentiel to boost brand image whilst engaging consumer interest. ln addition, one size no longer fits all. Adaptation to allow for customisation will drive NPD as consumer needs do not only change between individuels, but also on a week to week or day to day basis, with changing moods, skin conditions and environments Note de contenu : - Market examples of superood products - CUSTOMISABLE PRODUCTS : Market examples of customisable beauty - FORMULATION CONCEPT : The customisable - The superfoods En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/154TX6wSZS20itk99ogTmzKnVHLljtsFV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32267 [article]

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