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The formulation of a distinctive skin care product / Roseline Moyon in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 2-9 Titre : The formulation of a distinctive skin care product Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Roseline Moyon, Auteur ; Karin Golz, Auteur ; Leonhard Zastrow Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Stabilité Cosmétiques -- Texture Evaluation Expertises Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is our concern to identify the trends in the cosmetic market and to understand this evolution so as to be in a position to create distinctive, innovative skin care products. Today's consumers have a new emotion-based approach to buying. Even if product performance is an integral part of modern skin care products, distinctive, sensory qualities, real pleasure in using the product and fewer chemical ingredients are key factors for product success. A survey of the cosmetic market has enabled us to identify the main characteristics and qualities of product that have proved to be a tremendous success with the consumers (not merely marketing claims) : 0/W emulsion with several types of silicone oils, with a light texture, easy spreading, and a comfortable, caring after-feel effect. This article describes how we have integrated all these observations in our development process to propose to our consumers an innovative concept for a new skin care product. We have followed a new approach in the choice of raw materials and we have used accurate, objective methods to follow up stability and to characterise the texture. Note de contenu : - The formula - Stability assessment - Texture assessment - Efficacity and safety - Tables : 1. Formulations with ingredients - 2. The LumiFuge data - 3. Texture analysis data - Figures : 1. Principle of the LUMiFuge - 2. The classic transmission profile - 3. Sensory profiles Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30975 [article]

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Cosmetrics TM : Proof, in vivo, in seconds / Miranda Carew in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 10-15 Titre : Cosmetrics TM : Proof, in vivo, in seconds Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miranda Carew, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 10-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromophores Cosmétiques Etude in vivo Evaluation visuelle Imagerie optique Mesure -- Instruments Peau -- analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : COSMETRICS TM allows cosmetic formulators to test and accurately quantify the effects of a product by measuring chromophore TM" concentrations in live skin. COSMETRICS TM is powered by SlAscopy, Astron Clinica's unique patented skin visualisation and measurement technology. SlAscopy gives an accurate and clinically proven view of the structure of the skin as well as measured concentrations of haemoglobin, melanin and collagen, making it the ideal tool for product claims substantiation. Note de contenu : - Structure and optical properties of the skin - SIAScopy - Chromophore mapping - Significance to cosmetic research - COSMETRICC TM - Figures : 1. The SIAscope, a hand held skin imaging camera in its holder and in use - 2. Optical model - 3. Top row shows severely sun damaged skin of an elderly person. SIAscans confirm a very heterogeneous distribution of chromophores. Bottom row shows the undamaged skin of a young child. SIASscans verify the even distribution of the chromophores responsible for the appearance of young, healthy skin - 4. Screen shots of COSMETRICS, showing image capture, visual and graphical analysis as well as export of data Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30976 [article]

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Advanced adsorption for actives application / Lorna M. Kessel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 16-28 Titre : Advanced adsorption for actives application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorna M. Kessel, Auteur ; Benjamin J. Naden, Auteur ; Ian R. Tooley ; Tharwat F. Tadros Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 16-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adsorption Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Dispersions et suspensions Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Paramètres de solubilité Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polymères Produits antisolaires Rhéologie solvants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The integration of colloid and cosmetic science has provided a sound basis on which to carry out true optimisation of consumer acceptable sunscreen formulations based upon particulate Ti02 which is of particular benefit in daily skin care formulation. Adsorption isotherms, dispersant demand and solids loading determinations enabled a model to be developed which related the rheology, stability and maximum efficacy of the dispersions to the structure of the adsorbed layer. It was found that both dispersion stability and dispersion rheology depended upon adsorbed amount Γ and steric layer thickness δ (which in turn depends on oligomer molecular weight Mn and solvency χ) but that in order to optimise formulation, the adsorption strength χ, must also be considered. The nature of interaction between particles, dispersant, emulsifiers and thickeners must be considered with regard to competitive adsorption and/or interfacial stability if a formulation is to deliver its required protection when spread on the skin. Note de contenu : - Steric stabilisation - Solubility parameters - Steric stabilisation continued - Materials and methods - Results and discussion - Competitive interactions in formulations - Tables : 1. Surface modified TiO2 powder - 2. Sunscreen emulsion formulations from dispersions of powders B and C - 3. Hansen and Beerbower solubility parameters for the polymer and both solvents Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30977 [article]

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Nutgrass (cyperus rotundus) - A traditional ayurvedic plant with promising properties for modern cosmetic applications / Manfred Axterer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 30-35 Titre : Nutgrass (cyperus rotundus) - A traditional ayurvedic plant with promising properties for modern cosmetic applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manfred Axterer, Auteur ; Martina Herrmann, Auteur ; Imke Meyer ; Karin Schaper ; Holger Joppe ; Cornelia Mueller ; Gabriele Vielhaber Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Anti-inflammatoires Ayurveda L'ayurveda est une forme de médecine traditionnelle originaire de l'Inde également pratiquée dans d'autres parties du monde. L'āyurveda, ayurvéda ou encore médecine ayurvédique – en devanāgarī : आयुर्वॆद, la « science de la vie », de āyus (vie) et veda (science, ou connaissance) – puise ses sources dans le Véda, ensemble de textes sacrés de l'Inde antique. En l'occurrence, il s'agit d'une approche médicale holistique3 datant de la civilisation védique et toujours en vigueur aujourd'hui. En Inde, depuis novembre 2014, elle est promue par le ministère du Yoga fondé par le Premier ministre Narendra Modi. L'Ayurveda demeure une forme de médecine traditionnelle encore vivace en Asie du Sud et reconnue comme telle par l'Organisation mondiale de la santé. En Occident, il est considéré comme une médecine non conventionnelle. Des critiques de cette médecine existent cependant en ce qui concerne notamment l'utilisation de métaux lourds tels que le plomb, le mercure ou l'arsenic s'ils ne sont pas soumis aux procédés de purification traditionnels et utilisés dans les quantités prescrites. (Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Noisetier et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nutgrass (Cyperus rotundus) is a traditional Ayurvedic plant which has an in-teresting potential as a natural skin lightening ingredient. It is remarkable that it a Iso shows anti-irritant activity in the IL-1α assay, as many skin lightening materials which are under current use have a certain irritating potential on the skin. Moreover, as IL-1α is suspected to be involved in the genesis of age spots (9), Nutgrass extract will be useful for the prevention of age spots. Note de contenu : - NUTGRASS - A CANDIDATE FOR COSMETIC FORMULATIONS - THE MECHANISM OF MELANOGENESIS : Melanogenesis assay - Results - THE MECHANISM OF INFLAMMATION : the mechanism of inflammation : Anti-irritant assay - Results - Figures : 1. HPLC fingerprint of Extrapone Nutgrass (Motha) root GW at 280 nm - 2. Mechanism of melanogenesis - 3. B16V cells in the melanogenesis assay - 4. Mlanogenesis inhibition - 5. Mechanism of inflammation - 6. Results of the IL-1α assay Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30978 [article]

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Olive oil as a matrix for a new active agent complex / H. Eggensperger in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 36-38 Titre : Olive oil as a matrix for a new active agent complex Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : H. Eggensperger, Auteur ; D. Ihlbrock, Auteur ; P. Bauer Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 36-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras polyinsaturés Huile d'olive et constituants Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phytostérols Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The profile of fatty acids in olive oil triglycerides mainly consist of the unsaturated fatty acid oleic acid, linolic acid, linolenic acid. These unsaturated fatty acids improve the elasticity of the vessels and flexibility of the skin. In addition, olive oil contains 0.15% phytosterols. The value of phytosterols in the skin's health and in treating dermatosis have been demonstrated in numerous studies. Further, olive oil contains vitamin E, which is widely known for its cosmetic effects. In order to use the dermatological effectiveness of olive oil in an optimal way, significant quantities of linolic acid, vitamin-E-acetate, phytosterols and phenylethanol have been added to a special fraction of the olive oil. In conjunction with phenylethanol, oleic acid acts as a penetration accelerator. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30979 [article]

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An active ingredient from Anogeissus leiocarpus / François Montricol in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 40-44 Titre : An active ingredient from Anogeissus leiocarpus : The link between sustainable development and collagen synthesis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : François Montricol, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 40-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Collagène -- Synthèse Développement durable Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dakaline is an extract of a sacred tree of Burkina Faso (Africa), Anogeissus leiocarpus, is a multifunctional anti-aging active ingredient reducing time damages. The leaves, roots and bark are widely used for medical treatments. Supplying this plant from Burkina Faso is ensured by strict rules with respect to environment, economical and social development. All these considerations make Dakaline a part of sustainable development. Dakaline composition is unique and provides remarkable anti-ag-ing properties, relying on an innovative mechanism of action. • Helps the collagen synthesis by increasing the vitamin C incorporation into the fibroblasts ; • Has a free radical scavening activity ; • Prevents collagen and Elastine degradation Note de contenu : - COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS MECHANISM - VITAMIN C - FREE RADICAL SCAVENING ACTIVITY : Protocol - MMP-9 AND MMP-2 : Protocol - SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT : Economic and social dimension of the project - Environmental dimension of the project - FIGURES : 1. Collagen synthesis mechanism - 2. Evolution of vitamin C into fibroblasts with age - 3. Vitamin C incorporation analysis - 4. Free radical scavenger activity analysis - 5. MMPs inhibition activity analysis Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30980 [article]

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New developments in the field of surfactant thickeners / Matthias Loeffler in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 46-53 Titre : New developments in the field of surfactant thickeners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matthias Loeffler, Auteur ; Dennis Miller, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 46-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Polyéthylène glycol Rhéologie shampooings Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Esters of ethoxylated polyglycerins are a new, interesting class of non ionic thickeners for use in modern body care and hair care products containing surfactants. The viscosifying effect of polymers of different structures in ether sulfate/betaine mixtures is investigated. A marked structure-effect relationship is evident. The degree of esterification is recognized as an important parameter, and the best thickening effect is achieved if the polymer has a maximum number of ester units. The efficiency similarly depends on the degree of ethoxylation. Taking the diglycerin derivatives as an example maximum effect is achieved at about 150 mol FO. Systematic studies identify PEG-150 polyglycery1-2 tristearate as the target structure with optimum thickening properties. The higher efficiency of PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 tristearate compared to the commercial thickeners PEG-150 distearate and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate is shown in surfactant systems with additives that have a diluting effect. Addition of salt and/or laureth-3 leads to an additional synergistic viscosity effect. As an additional alternative to the waxlike polymer a liquid, cold-processable mixture of PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 tristearate in PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides is presented. Note de contenu : - Viscosity as a function of polymer structure - Viscosifying effect in surfactant systems - Liquid form - Synergistic viscosity effects - Figures : 1. Schematic structure of PEG-150 polyglyceryl-2 tristearate - 2. Viscosity effect of ethoxylated diglycerin stearates with different degrees of ethoxylation - 3. Viscosity effect as a function of the molar ratio of ester/glycerin - 4. Composition of the test formulations used - 5. Viscosity of various polymers in SLES/CAPB/glutamate (test formulation III) - 6. Viscosity of various polymers in SLES/CAPB/sarcosinate (test formulation IV) - 7. Synergistic viscosity effects - 8. Guide formulation for a conditioning antidandruff shampoo - 9. Guide formulation for leave-on hair repair Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30981 [article]

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Typology of cosmetic behaviour of french women from Paris area / Elodie Mauger in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 54-59 Titre : Typology of cosmetic behaviour of french women from Paris area Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elodie Mauger, Auteur ; J. Latreille, Auteur ; L. Ambroisine ; M. Tenenhaus ; Christiane Guinod Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 54-59 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Études de marché Françaises Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In order to meet expectations of marketing services and product developers, many surveys have focused on consumers' behaviour in order to identify "typical profiles" of consumers. The aim of this analysis was to identify groups of individuals with a particular type of behaviour with regards to cosmetic products and aesthetics, using an appropriate analysis strategy. The study was conducted on 654 women from Paris area. A questionnaire on lifestyle and cosmetic habits was submitted to each woman. The statistical analysis had to meet three requirements: 1) To summarise all the available information as well as possible ; 2) To identify groups of individuals with a particular behaviour ; 3) To describe these groups of individuals. The information was reduced to 46 synthetic variables. An eight-class typology was obtained. A typical profile was defined for each class and a title characterising the class was given: "tare woman", "excessive consumer woman", "nature woman«, »mask woman«, »"efractory woman", "stressed woman", "stay-at-home woman", "appearance-conscious woman". Each class corresponds to a specific type of consumers. This typology can be used as a classification tool for a better knowledge of consumer expectation in order to define targeted marketing strategies. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Summary of the information - Identification of a typology of individuals - Description of the typology of cosmetic behaviour - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Summary of the information - Identification of a typology of individuals - first stage - Identification of a typology of individuals - second stage - Description of the typology of cosmetic behaviour - TABLES : 1. Summary of the typology of cosmetic behaviour - 2. Typical profiles of cosmetic behaviour Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30982 [article]

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Natural raw and active ingredients for green concepts / Bernd Ziolkowsky in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 60-74 Titre : Natural raw and active ingredients for green concepts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Ziolkowsky, Auteur ; H. Ziolkowsky, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 60-74 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Antiâge Biomolécules actives Emulsifiants Ester de polyglycérol Esters Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels Texturants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Production of mild, censorial textures from natural raw materials for green concepts - Polyglycerol fatty acid esters : Plurol diisostearique - Plurol stearique - Sugar ester : Surfhope sugar ester - PEG-free emulsifier : Emulium kappa - Bi-gel : Emulfree line - Antiaging actives : Stone extracts for personal care products - Organics : Fresh cells - Gatuline Expression (7) - Formulation concepts - FIGURES : Formula : Polyglycerol ester - Formula : Sugar ester - 1. Chemical composition - 2. Several fatty acid chains - 3. How to formulate a D-phase gel ? - 4. D-phase gel characteristics - 6. Bi-gel technology - 7. Increase of shear stability - 8. Stabilisation of aqueous gel viscosity - 9. Emulfree CBG or P ? - 10. Emulfree line : Two reference - 11. Reaction of prolyl hydroxylases - 12. In the plant - 13. Formulation concepts Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30983 [article]

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Synergies of hydrophobic polymers and surfactants on surface activity and cleaning performance / M.-E. Chateau in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 76-82 Titre : Synergies of hydrophobic polymers and surfactants on surface activity and cleaning performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M.-E. Chateau, Auteur ; Michael Lang, Auteur ; Markus Antonietti ; K. Rodrigues ; A. M. Carrier Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 76-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détergents Dodécylbenzènesulfonate Ethoxylate d'alcool Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrophobie Polycarboxylates Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Detergency is the removal of soil through a complex process involving interactions between the wash liquor, the soil and the substrate. In this paper, we describe the results of our preliminary investigations into polymer-surfactant interactions, focusing on primary detergency in laundry applications. We have studied the interaction between surfactants typically used in laundry formulations and hydrophobically modified polycarboxylate polymers. These polymers are a series of copolymers of acrylic acid and styrene with varying molar amounts of the styrene hydrophobe. The effect of a partial replacement of the surfactant by these polymers was characterized by the static surface tension measurements. These measurements predict that these polymers should aid in primary detergency. Primary detergency tests show that these polymers in combination with the anionic surfactant sodium-dodecylbenzenesulfonate (LAS) improve detergency when the LAS level is below its critical micelle concentration (CMC). Even more remarkable is the oily soil release improvement with the non-ionic alcohol ethoxylate (AE) surfactant, C13-15,7 E0, even above the CMC. This is possibly due to a change in micelle shape, which favours spontaneous emulsification, and subsequent soil release by mechanical action. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hydrophobically modified polycarboxylate polymers - Surfactants : LAS and AE (7 EO) - Physicochemical measurements - Primary detergency test protocol for European was conditions - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Polymer interactions with sodium-dodecylbenzenesulfonates (LAS) - Polymer interactions with an alcohol ethoxylate non ionic surfactant Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30984 [article]

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Soluble silicates - highly versatile and safe / C. H. Baehr in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 133, N° 4 (04/2007) . - p. 84-90 Titre : Soluble silicates - highly versatile and safe Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. H. Baehr, Auteur ; W. Koehl, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 84-90 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Evaluation du risque Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie Risques pour la santé Silicates Solubilité Index. décimale : 546 Chimie minérale Résumé : Soluble silicates are a major class of synthetic chemicals, surpassed in volume only by commodity acids and bases. Also known as waterglass, they represent a highly versatile group of compounds. Due to their many advantageous properties they are used in many different applications and industries. In an effort to assess product safety and provide more transparency to consumers, a HERA risk assessment on the environment and human health was carried out. For the major application of soluble silicates, anthropogenic emissions to the environment and human exposure were estimated. Respective hazards were assessed, drawing together all available animal and human data. Quantitative measures of potential risk were derived and the class of compounds demonstrated to be environmentally friendly and safe. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Soluble silicates definition and production - Applications - Soluble silicates regulatory status - Classification of soluble silicates - ENVIRONMENTAL RISK ASSESSMENT : Environmental fate - Anthropogenic sources of soluble silicates - Environmental effects assessment - Environmental risk characterisation - HUMAL HEALTH RISK ASSESSMENT : Consumer exposure - Human hazard assessment - Human health risk assessment Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30985 [article]

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