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Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments / Thomas Förster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 2-9 Titre : Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Thomas Hippe, Auteur ; Georg Knübel, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux décolorés Cosmétiques Essais dynamiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With bright blond hair colors becoming more fashionable in recent years, prevention or even repair of hair damage by lightening has become a strong consumer need. Leading edge research of structural changes in keratin caused by strong oxidative stress has led to several approaches how to counteract this oxidative damage by ingredients capable to form bonds between adjacent keratin chains. An overview presents several ingredients used already in market products acting via different mode-of-actions of keratin bonding. For the class of organic di-acids experimental evidence is given, showing protection of keratin during oxidative damage perceivable also by consumers. Results of tensile strength evaluations as well as multiple grooming tests and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and finally test salon evaluations support the hypothesis that certain di-acids like maleic acid or succinic acid are able to bridge adjacent keratin chains via ionic interactions and/or hydrogen bonds. Note de contenu : - E-MODULI AND BREAK STRESS : Results - Experimental procedure tensile strength - HAIR BREAKAGE MEASUREMENT : Results - Experimental procedure hair breakage - DIFFERENTIAL SCANNING CALORIMETRY (DSC) : Experimental procedure Differential Scanning Calorimetry - TEST SALON EVALUATION - FIGURES : 1. Schematic representation of a succinate salt bridge linking cationic amino acid side chains of two adjacent keratin chains (as working hypothesis) - 2. Schematic representation of the covalent bridge formed by Michael addition of maleic acid grops with cysteine residues of two neighboring keratin chains - 3. Change of E-moduli after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premier lift 9+ - 4. Break stress after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 5. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1 - 6. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1, shampoo and Fibreplex N° 2 - 7. Denaturation temperature of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 8. Denaturation enthalpy of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 9. Performance evaluation in the test salon En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mKbiIX-BJ4OYbc0fMKqZeRyPOxJQA02e/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30349 [article]

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Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 10-14 Titre : Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 10-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Antiradicalaire Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teinture Cosmétiques Essais de résilience Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Protection thermique Résistance aux conditions climatiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip and is the result of a series of cosmetic and environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as brushing, combing, dyeing, straightening, perming, etc., as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light and polluted air can induce structural damage to the F-layer and the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease in hair shine, color, elasticity and strength is observed, which eventually leads to hair damage. In different studies measured utilizing state-of-the-art technologies, a hair care ingredient that combines tara tannins derived from Caesalpinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract (trade name KeraGuard), revealed a capacity to protect hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was also shown to protect dyed hair from color fading and heat damage as well as to repair chemically treated hair. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The hair unit - The F-layer - The hair is constantly exposed to stress factors - METHODS : Determination of the antioxidant power - Analysis of the radical scavenging properties by ESR spectroscopy - Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy on bleached hair - Hair color protection - Heat damage test - RESULTS : Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C - Antioxidant protection effect on hair - Hair color protection against sequential washing and UV exposure - Restoraton of bleached hair - Protection of the hair from heat damage - FIGURES : 1. Structure of the cuticle F-layer - 2. Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C and green tea - 3. Radical scavenging effect. Antioxidant protection effect at 0,5% and 1.0% active ingredient with/without washing - 4. Hair color protection effect against washing and UV exposure in comparison to the placebo - 5. Repair of bleached hair. Restoration effect of the hair after bleaching using 0.5% and 1.0% active ingredient En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1io77hGKB52fP6fVx8j1AX16-_-gxZoar/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30350 [article]

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Stimulating Nrf2 and inhibiting NF-kB to help skin combating pollution / E. Bony in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 16-22 Titre : Stimulating Nrf2 and inhibiting NF-kB to help skin combating pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : E. Bony, Auteur ; I. Renimel-Krolkiewicz, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; C. Leduc, Auteur ; Philippe Bedos, Auteur ; P. Schlegel, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 16-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Cosmétiques Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The skin is routinely exposed to stresses from environmental pollution. These repeated and regular exposures can profoundly affect skin physiology, and may lead to irreversibie consequences. We studied the potential of a Schisandra chinensis (S.C.) extract, particularly ennched in lignans, to enhance skin defense mechanisms involved in pollution stress response, with the main pathways involved in skin being Nuclear Factor Kappa B (NF-kB), DJ-1, the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) signaling pathways. Using an in vitro model, we showed that co-treatment with Urban dust and S.C. extract was able to stimulate the expression of Nrf2 and DJ-1, as well as the decrease of NF-kB and AhR, suggesting that this active extract may provide wide protection for skin against daily environmental insults. In a skin equivalent model stressed by Urban dust, the extract provided a global protection of skin components as shown by key proteins involved in the epidermal barrier. Even if further investigations are needed, we speculate that S.C. extract can be used to butter the harmful effects.of free radicals and enhance the skin barrier,due to air pollutant interactions with the skin, allowing a global preservation of cutaneous structures. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. Summarizes the molecular mechanisms for pollutant-induced ROS generation and pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1α, IL-8, and TNF-α, resulting i increased skin aging. Mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) ; NF-KB : nuclear factor KB ; AP-A : activator protein-1 ; PI3K : phosphoinositide 3-kinase - Fig. 2. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and particulate matter (PM) induce ROS generation and pro-inflammatory cytokines. Upon ligation by PAHs and PM, the activated AhR translocates form the cytoplasm into the nucleus. This translocated AhR binds with ANRT, resulting in the activation of cytochrome P450, family 1, member A1 (CYP1A1) transcription. ROS generated by CYP1A1 stimulates the production of TNF-α and IL-8 - Fig. 3. NK-KB cytoplasm expression after Urban dust exposure or co-treatment with Urban dust and S.C. extract ***p<0.001 versus Urban dust - Fig. 4. AhR cytoplasm expression after Urban dust exposure or co-treatment with Urban dust and S.C. extract ***p<0.001 versus Urban dust - Fig. 5. NrF2 cytoplasm expression after Urban dust exposure or co-treatment with Urbandust and S.C. extrct - Fig. 6. DJ-1 expression after Urban dust exposure or co-treatment with Urban dust and S.C. extract ***p<0.001 versus Urban dust - Fig. 7. Secretion of PGE2 and il-6 in polluted or non-reconstructed skin supernatant treated or not with S.C. extract. Analysis has been done 24h after pollutant stress. ***p<0.001 versus Urban dust - 8. MDA expression in epidermis of skin equivalent model. Analysis has been done 24h after pollutant stress En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YZRvsU-82xTpVPt-JfmooGJlU2VaVl8w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30351 [article]

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Submicron particles from lipid mixtures as safe and efficient carrier systems for the active ingredient retinol / Sabilla Zhong in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Submicron particles from lipid mixtures as safe and efficient carrier systems for the active ingredient retinol Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabilla Zhong, Auteur ; Florence Olechowski, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Diffusion (physique) Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Lipides Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dermal active substances, in particular anti-aging ingredients, find frequent use in cosmetics for their beneficial effects on the skin. But they can only have these effects if they are bioavailable. That means that the substance must efficiently penetrate the skin in a meaningful and effective concentration. Furthermore, the substance must be protected from degradation due to external influences such as light or oxygen, both as a raw material and in formulation. Retinol is a highly effective antioxidant and has long been known as an anti-aging ingredient. However, its chemical instability makes it a challenge for formulators. Furthermore, in high concentrations retinol causes skin irritation and redness. Retinol can be stabilised to a substantial degree by embedding it in a semi-crystalline, unordered matrix of selected solid and liquid lipids in the form of submicron particles in an aqueous suspension. This also gives efficient, controlled penetration of retinol from the particles into the skip over a prolonged period, minimising skin irritation. At the same time, with their effective adhesion to the skin, the lipid particles help restore the damaged skin barder. This adhesive property also has the benefit of extending the release of retinol. The particles are in solid state at skin temperature and they are stabilised in suspension. Note de contenu : - SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES AS CARRIER SYSTEMS - STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES OF SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES, AND THE PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL STABILISATION OF RETINOL - MODE OF OPERATION OF CARRIER SYSTEMS BASED ON SUBMICRON LIPID PARTICLES : Transport of retinol into the skin - Restoration of the natural skin barrier - Avoidance of retinol side effects (irritation) - APPLICATION AND FORMULATION - FIGURES : 1. Schematic structure of a BergaCare SmartLipid, the latest generation of lipid-based carrier systems - 2. X-ray diffraction diagrams of submicron lipid particles based on a single lipid and particles based on multiple lipids (BergaCare SmartLipids), immediately after manufacture and after storage - 3. Stabilisation of retinol by a carrier system of submicron lipid lipid particles versus stabilisation of retinol in a nanoemulsion - 4. Schematic view of dermal transport of retinol by means of submicron lipid particle carrier systems - 5. Reduction in retinol-induced skin reddening in the face through the application of a dermal formulation with encapsulated retinol in the form of submicron lipid particles - TABLES : 1. Technical aspects of submicron lipid particles loaded with retinol (BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol) - 2. Base for a highly effective, moisturising anti-aging serum with submicron lipid particles containing retinol En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PJL3psy7kJi_5iVlamzfFkRp-BfQW6yn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30352 [article]

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A new generation of polymeric emulsifier to improve the mildness of oil-in-water emulsions / Juan Cebriàn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 30-34 Titre : A new generation of polymeric emulsifier to improve the mildness of oil-in-water emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Juan Cebriàn, Auteur ; Maxime Fougere, Auteur ; Florence Pecquerie, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Douceur (toucher) Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Epaississants Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polymères Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sensitive skin is becoming a rising concern in our modern society. Many different extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as pollution, increased exposure to chemicals, stress of our hectic lives, hormones etc., affect the quality and the condition of the skin. Formulating with ingredients that enable milder products with simplicity, pleasant aesthetics and sensory, while maintaining the performance expected by consumers, has become a challenge. A new generation of multifunctional acrylate-based polymeric emulsifier contributes to overcome the limitation of existing technologies. Mildness of this generation of polymeric emulsifier has been compared to well-known skin irritant substances by surface tension measurement. Formulators are nowadays offered with a robust and highly efficient solution for emulsion stability and mildness without compromise on the pleasant sensory and the variety of galenics in the skin and sun care markets. Note de contenu : - How is sensitive skin impacting the quality of life ? - Barrier function is critical in sensitive skin - New generation of hydrophobically modified polymer for emulsion stabilization - Minimize surface activity and the skin's percutaneous absorption of emulsion stabilizers - Water resistance with good sensory for the suncare market - Speed up and ease the formulation process while making affordable formulations with good aesthetics - FIGURES : 1. Skin barrier disruption by surfactant and permeation of non desirable substances - 2. Emulsion stabilization by polymeric emulsifier. Oil droplets are dispersed into a polymer associative microgel network - 3. Surface tension measurements using kruss tensiometer at 25°C, 30 min - 4. No re-emulsification mechanism enabling water-resistance of sunscreens stabilized with non surface-active polymeric emulsifier - 5. A quantity of 0.05% of Permulen TM EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier is sufficient to stabilize a liquid macro-emulsion of Sesame Seed Oil of 600-1, 100 mPa-s (Brookfield DV-1, 20 rpm, 25°C, 24 hours, spindle 2) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1joTlN2oOBiDF5Ba4hb3JT5hqaWjJJBnf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30353 [article]

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Efficacy of natural ((-) isomer) alpha bisabolol and its sustainable supply chain versus synthetics chemicals / Gabriele Rocha in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 36-39 Titre : Efficacy of natural ((-) isomer) alpha bisabolol and its sustainable supply chain versus synthetics chemicals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriele Rocha, Auteur ; Flávia F. J. Batistela, Auteur ; Rafaela Tomazini Candido, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 36-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Développement durable Etudes comparatives Gestion de l'approvisionnement Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels Produits synthétiques Stéréoisomères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both active versions : nature ((-) isomer) and synthetic (racemic mixture (±)) a-bisabolol in the treatment of skin and scalp. Natural version has advantages like being farnesol free, to have the production chain completely transparent and sustainable, in addition of the action potential guaranteed by the presence of the biologically active, that is, the negative isomer (-) in 100% of the composition. Synthetic products, although it is claimed to be similar to natural in the market, have a number of inherent manufacturing problems, such as production being dependent on environmentally and humanly harmful chemicals, difficulty in purification (i.e. product without trace of these compounds), and low efficacy. Furthermore, it is known that micro-organism-dependent technologies are naturally low in yield, requiring high consumption of chemical and biological reagents, which is in disagreement with modern industrial production techniques, in terms of resource savings and natural goods. On the other hand, the active a-bisabolol: natural ((-) - a-bisabolol) from Candela tree has been used by the market for decades, with no correlated effects on its use, dissimilar to the synthetic or similar products, with less time in the market, with unknown long-term adverse effects. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. Stereoisomers of α-bisabolol - Fig. 2. The sustainable circle production of Citroleo products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ds5x-pCqUvl6WiBBf9DtuS_dvIStXhdu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30354 [article]

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Pseudofolliculis barbae (shaving bumps) ; ingrown hairs - real cause, treatment and why black men are disproportionately affected / Aloysius Anaebonam in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 40-42 Titre : Pseudofolliculis barbae (shaving bumps) ; ingrown hairs - real cause, treatment and why black men are disproportionately affected Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aloysius Anaebonam, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 40-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bosses de rasage Peau -- Inflammation Peau masculine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shaving Bumps (Pseudofolliculitis Barbae ; Razor Bump, Ingrown Hairs) is a major skin care issue for shavers of all genders and racial groups. Over 500 million men and women are plagued by shaving bumps to differing degrees worldwide. This article will show that the widely held view that Shaving Bumps are caused by "ingrown" hairs — wiry, curly hairs that curl and grow back into the skin" is not possible based on the structure of the Stratum Corneum contrary to what is claimed and published by many. Note de contenu : - Current wrong hypothesis - New hypothesis of how shaving bumps (and later ingrown hairs) are caused as well as why dark skinned shavers experience a higher incidence of shaving bumps - Discussion - Summary biochemistry of shaving bumps formation ; ingrown hairs - FIGURES : 1. Three examples of shaving bumps - 2. Wrong current hypothesis (M. Ribera, et al PFBarbae Actas - 3. Schematic of Current WRONG Hypothesis and new hypothesis - 4. Schematic of stratum corneum showing only 2 openings on skin surface En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1smkQ-yCkFemx02Y78Ti7Gazaztp2d0mF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30355 [article]

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Surfactant-loaded-citrate - A winning combination for automatic diswashing detergents / Sandra Hübner in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 44-48 Titre : Surfactant-loaded-citrate - A winning combination for automatic diswashing detergents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sandra Hübner, Auteur ; Felix Weiher, Auteur ; Dominik Buser, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 44-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Citrate de sodium Détergents Surfactants Vaisselle -- Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Since the EU regulation on phosphorus limitation in automatic dishwashing detergents (ADWDs) entered into force in January 2017, sodium citrates have become a well-established alternative to phosphates as environmentally friendly builders for ADWDs. An innovative alternative to the commonly used sodium citrate dihydrate (TSC) is the anhydrous form of sodium citrate (ISA) which has an active content of 100%. TSA has excellent tableting properties and can be used as a carrier for liquid active substances due to its porous structure. In that regard, surfactants are of special interest because they are often liquid or waxy and therefore represent a particular challenge in dry formulations (e.g. tablets). An advantageous combination of the two active substances can be achieved by loading TSA with surfactants. Loading TSA with surfactants shows that free-flowing TSA-surfactant powder can be produced. This loading step allows for easy handling of raw materials and, in the final application, excellent tablet properties.I Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Automatic diswashing detergents - Trisodium citrate anhydrous - Surfactant-loaded-citrate - TESTS AND RESULTS : Powder and tablet characteristics - FIGURES : 1. Microscope image of a trisodium citrate anhydrous particle and a trisodium citrate dihydrate particle - 2. SEM pictures of TSA particles and loaded with surfactant 1 - 3. Breaking of tablets prepared according to the formulations listed in Tab. 1 - 4. Friability of tablets prepared according to the formulations listed in Tab. 1 (test according to EuAB 8.0) ("tablets of formulation A with press force 20 kN were broken) - 5. Disintegration time of tablets prepared according to the formulations listed in Tab. 1 Test procedure : measurement of the time until the tablet disintegrates in a rigid frame with a porous bottom and mesh size of 2 mm, which is raised and lowered evenly in 45°C water (test according to EuAB 8.0) - TABLE : Formulation - ADWD formulations for tablet characterisations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ut2QXZ4kEzbMUP3ryhyuJP0QNIZp1c9A/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30356 [article]

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