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Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; J. Y. Kempf, Auteur ; Maxime Fougere, Auteur ; M. Applebaum, Auteur ; L. J. Wolfram, Auteur ; H. Maibach, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 653-663 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Etudes comparatives
ToucherIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objectives : This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs.
Methods : Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root–tip vs. tip–root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like–dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair).
Results : Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions.
Conclusion : Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - Hair treatments - Protocols - Tactile evaluation by experts and NP: visual and blind conditions - Instrumental measurements - Frictional studies - Statistics
- RESULTS : Tactile evalution by the NP and its preference mappings - Tactile evalution by experts and their preference mappings - Correlations between sensorial and objective measurementsDOI : 10.1111/ics.12428 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29480
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 653-663[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new generation of polymeric emulsifier to improve the mildness of oil-in-water emulsions / Juan Cebrià n in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
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Titre : A new generation of polymeric emulsifier to improve the mildness of oil-in-water emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Juan Cebrià n, Auteur ; Maxime Fougere, Auteur ; Florence Pecquerie, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Douceur (toucher)
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Epaississants
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sensitive skin is becoming a rising concern in our modern society. Many different extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as pollution, increased exposure to chemicals, stress of our hectic lives, hormones etc., affect the quality and the condition of the skin. Formulating with ingredients that enable milder products with simplicity, pleasant aesthetics and sensory, while maintaining the performance expected by consumers, has become a challenge. A new generation of multifunctional acrylate-based polymeric emulsifier contributes to overcome the limitation of existing technologies. Mildness of this generation of polymeric emulsifier has been compared to well-known skin irritant substances by surface tension measurement. Formulators are nowadays offered with a robust and highly efficient solution for emulsion stability and mildness without compromise on the pleasant sensory and the variety of galenics in the skin and sun care markets. Note de contenu : - How is sensitive skin impacting the quality of life ?
- Barrier function is critical in sensitive skin
- New generation of hydrophobically modified polymer for emulsion stabilization
- Minimize surface activity and the skin's percutaneous absorption of emulsion stabilizers
- Water resistance with good sensory for the suncare market
- Speed up and ease the formulation process while making affordable formulations with good aesthetics
- FIGURES : 1. Skin barrier disruption by surfactant and permeation of non desirable substances - 2. Emulsion stabilization by polymeric emulsifier. Oil droplets are dispersed into a polymer associative microgel network - 3. Surface tension measurements using kruss tensiometer at 25°C, 30 min - 4. No re-emulsification mechanism enabling water-resistance of sunscreens stabilized with non surface-active polymeric emulsifier - 5. A quantity of 0.05% of Permulen TM EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier is sufficient to stabilize a liquid macro-emulsion of Sesame Seed Oil of 600-1, 100 mPa-s (Brookfield DV-1, 20 rpm, 25°C, 24 hours, spindle 2)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1joTlN2oOBiDF5Ba4hb3JT5hqaWjJJBnf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30353
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 30-34[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19758 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible