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An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect / Huey Mei Wang Pamella in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)
[article]
Titre : An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol : A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Huey Mei Wang Pamella, Auteur ; Mickael Agach, Auteur ; Majolie Libii, Auteur ; Stéphan Chonez, Auteur ; Sébastien Gregoire, Auteur ; Brittany Lee, Auteur ; Jean-Thierry Simonnet, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 581-591 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation
Chimie analytique
Chimie écologique
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Stabilisants (chimie)
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine AIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy.
- Methods : An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation.
- Results : N,N’-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits.
- Conclusion : Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA.Note de contenu : - Eco-design of formulations for reaching sustainable goals
- New system for stabilizing retinol in formulations
- Pentaerythritol 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate as alternative to BHT
- Impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC combination on retinol
- METHODS AND MATERIALS : Raw materials - SPOT analysis - Formulation protocol - Stability measurements - Absorption of retinol by skin - Clinical evaluation
- RESULTS : Environmental impact of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - SPOT score of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Effects of [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on retinol stability in formulations - Skin absorption of retinol+[S,S]-EDDS + PBHC - Beneficial effects of retinol and [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC on skinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmvNNWD2_D2eFvzoZ4-lDwII40w-nOaj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40079
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 581-591[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)
[article]
Titre : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Nathalie Borotra, Auteur ; Fernanda Chaves, Auteur ; Fabio Sanches, Auteur ; Anne L. Gaudry, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 691-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide ascorbique glucoside
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Explant de peau
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau humaine
Protection cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine CIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.
- Methods : Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.
- Results : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.
- Conclusion : A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Storage stability - Penetration and metabolism in viable fresh human skin explants - HPLC/UV analysis of AA and AA2G - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response - Data handling and analyses
- RESULTS : Stability of AA2G and AA in formulations - Prodrug concept: AA release in fresh viable human skin explants from AA2G - Kinetic of penetration of AA2G vs. AA formulations in fresh viable human skin explants - Antioxidant protection of AA2G in RHE modelDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12745 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBKOIM98kz6UIcCT2A28dTue6JagkvCH/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37050
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 691-702[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care / Olivia Eskens in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
[article]
Titre : Challenges and effective routes for formulating and delivery of epidermal growth factors in skin care Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Olivia Eskens, Auteur ; Samiul Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 123-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Facteur de croissance (biochimie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Epidermal growth factors are important morphogenetic proteins that instruct cell behaviour. They have many inferred applications within regenerative medicine and have shown promising results in skincare treatments. Many growth factors are known to have skin anti-ageing benefits along with further potential in resolving scarring, acne and other skin disorders. Incorporation of these biologics into skincare formulations has been greatly hindered by low transdermal delivery efficacy, intricate material interactions and protein instability – especially within common cosmetic emulsions. This review explores the cosmeceutical capability of growth factors in skin care, current understandings of constituent interactions and advantageous delivery approaches for more effective topical delivery. The first section highlights the influences growth factor product formulation has on stability and synergy. Current understandings of growth factor formulating techniques in cosmetic products is limited, and the performance of other protein structures is an adequate point of reference. The second section examines emerging drug delivery systems to overcome the challenges of topical growth factor treatment. It is important to consider the coaction and durability of all components in a formulation simultaneously : active ingredients, product format and delivery vehicle, in order to engineer an optimal cosmeceutical product. Note de contenu : - FORMULATION OF EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS IN SKIN CARE : Stability of EGF in formulations - Stability of EGF in manufacturing - Stability of EGF in storage - Bioengineering - Synergistic EGF formulation
- TOPICAL DELIVERY TECHNIQUES FOR EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS : Physical enhancers - Scaffolds - Particulate systems - Liposomes - Smart response
- Table 1 : EGF wound-healing patent formulations
- Table 2 : Stability criteria for EGF product development
- Table 3 : Summary of topical delivery systemsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12685 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nR28nQTZ5sTpP84T27UXkx_flesvh9F8/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35752
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 123-130[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods / Paweenuch Teerasumran in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)
[article]
Titre : Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Paweenuch Teerasumran, Auteur ; Eirini Velliou, Auteur ; Shuo Bai, Auteur ; Qiong Cai, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 426-443 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiperspirants
Cosmétiques
Déodorants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Glandes sudoriparesLes glandes sudoripares (sudorales) sont des annexes cutanées (organes microscopiques spécialisés) qui sécrètent la sueur et, pour certaines d'entre elles, des hormones ou phéromones.
Histologiquement, il s'agit de glandes exocrines (épithéliums cubiques bistratifiés) dont la fonction première est la transpiration.
Les deux types de glandes sudoripares chez l'humain
Chez l'humain, on distingue deux sortes de glandes sudoripares qui diffèrent par leur origine embryologique, leurs fonctions, leurs répartitions et par la composition de la sueur qu'elles excrètent.
Glandes sudoripares « eccrines »
Les glandes sudoripares eccrines sont de loin les plus nombreuses, de trois à six millions, avec une densité moyenne de 200 glandes/cm2. Leur topographie est quasi-ubiquitaire, avec une répartition sur presque l'ensemble de la surface cutanée, avec une plus forte densité au niveau de la paume des mains, de la plante des pieds (où elles atteignent une densité maximale de 600 glandes/cm2) et sur le front.
Ces glandes sont absentes au niveau des petites lèvres et du clitoris chez les femmes, et du gland chez l'homme.
Glandes sudoripares « apocrines »
Chez l'humain, ces glandes se trouvent sous les aisselles (dans l'organe axillaire), sur la peau autour de l'anus et autour des mamelons. À la différence des glandes eccrines, la répartition des glandes apocrines est donc plus restreinte. Par ailleurs, les glandes apocrines présentent une plus grande taille, leur canal excréteur s'abouche dans un follicule pileux par lequel leur sécrétion est déversée ; celle-ci contient des lipides et des phéromones, des composés transformés par le microbiote bactérien cutané, produisant l'odeur de transpiration.
Odeur corporelle
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pénétration cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Tests de sécurité
Transpiration
VectorisationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sweating is the human body's thermoregulation system but also results in unpleasant body odour which can diminish the self-confidence of people. There has been continued research in finding solutions to reduce both sweating and body odour. Sweating is a result of increased sweat flow and malodour results from certain bacteria and ecological factors such as eating habits. Research on deodorant development focuses on inhibiting the growth of malodour-forming bacteria using antimicrobial agents, whereas research on antiperspirant synthesis focuses on technologies reducing the sweat flow, which not only reduces body odour but also improves people's appearance. Antiperspirant's technology is based on the use of aluminium salts which can form a gel plug at sweat pores, obstructing the sweat fluid from arising onto the skin surface. In this paper, we perform a systematic review on the recent progress in the development of novel antiperspirant and deodorant active ingredients that are alcohol-free, paraben-free, and naturally derived. Several studies have been reported on the alternative class of actives that can potentially be used for antiperspirant and body odour treatment including deodorizing fabric, bacterial, and plant extracts. However, a significant challenge is to understand how the gel-plugs of antiperspirant actives are formed in sweat pores and how to deliver long-lasting antiperspirant and deodorant benefits. Note de contenu : - SWEAT GLANDS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS : Eccrine, apocrine, and apoeccrine glands - Hyperhidrosis
- RESEARCH PROGRESS OF DEODORANTS : Body odour formation mechanism and its chemical composition - Deodorant's ingredients - Testing methodology to evaluate the efficiency of deodorant products
- RESEARCH PROGRESS ON ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS AND COMPOSITION COMPONENTS : Aluminium salts and their mechanism of action - Testing methodologies for the evaluation of an antiperspirant's efficiency
- ALTERNATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR BODY ODOUR REDUCTION TREATMENTS : Naturally derived ingredients - Synthetic ingredients
- CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING ALTERNATIVE DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
- CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING TESTING METHODS FOR ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS
- Table 1 : Common ingredients in deodorant products, adapted from Martini 2020
- Table 2 : Common ingredients in antiperspirant formulation, adapted from Benohanian 2001, Jungermann 1974, and Martini 2020DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12852 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BtLnpM3YrEWmMLQh8_-oQWOd1xrvX_Jd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39777
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 426-443[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves / Sofia Melo-GuÃmaro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)
[article]
Titre : Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sofia Melo-GuÃmaro, Auteur ; Renato Cardoso, Auteur ; Celso Paiva João, Auteur ; João Santos, Auteur ; Elodie Melro, Auteur ; Luis G. Arnaut, Auteur ; Jorge Costa Pereira, Auteur ; Carlos Serpa, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 453-463 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Barrière cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ondes photoacoustiques
Pénétration cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine CIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Ascorbic acid (i.e., vitamin C) is an important antioxidant present in skin. The protective role of vitamin C against photoaging motivated numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery, with a success limited by its chemical instability and poor skin permeability. Vitamin C precursors, such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), which are metabolized to vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin, solve the problem of stability but are limited by low skin permeability. We developed a 2% (w/v) gel formulation of AA2G application (viscosity 4.30 × 104 Pa.s, pH 5.94) and compared its passive dermal delivery with the delivery promoted by photoacoustic waves that transiently perturb the skin barrier.
- Methods : Photoacoustic (PA) waves were generated by laser pulses absorbed by piezophotonic (light-to-pressure) transducers. Pig skin samples were exposed to the 2% AA2G formulation alone or combined with 5 min of PA waves. One hour later, AA2G was extracted from the skin and quantified by reverse-phase HPLC. AA2G transdermal fluxes using Franz cells with 760 μm thick pig skin samples were also measured.
- Results : Photoacoustic waves transiently enhanced skin permeability and increased dermal delivery of AA2G. AA2G was released from the formulation nearly quantitatively (92.6 ± 6.2%) in 24 h, showing a non-Fickian behaviour controlled by diffusion and swelling. AA2G dermal delivery with exposure for 5 min to PA waves was compared with passive delivery to pig skin. PA waves increased the delivery of AA2G to the skin by a factor of 15-fold with respect to passive delivery, as measured from skin extracts after 1 h of contact of the formulation with the skin.
- Conclusion : Five minutes of exposure to PA waves is a safe and effective method to deliver large quantities of AA2G to the skin.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization of photoacoustic waves - Skin samples preparation - Preparation of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside gel formulation - In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro transdermal delivery of ascorbic
acid 2-glucoside - HPLC analytical methods - Data analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : In vitro release of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside - In vitro dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside
- Table 1 : High-performance liquid chromatography elution protocol for the quantitative analysis of the transdermal delivery in vitro experiments samples
- Table 2 : Summary of the AA2G release data fit using mathematical models
- Table 3 : Amount of AA2G extracted from skin samples after 12h and 1h of contact with the formulationDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12793 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p9GpgZCE40JSS3624kii6ujQnuogcMdV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38145
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 453-463[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles / Jeerapond Leelawattanachai in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)
PermalinkHomogeneous distribution of fatty ester-based active cosmetic ingredients in hydrophilic thin films by means of nanodispersion / Emilie Munnier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)
PermalinkNanoemulsions containing plant oils : How do they influence hair treatment ? / F. L. Tamashiro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
PermalinkA novel Ca2+ double cone vector system to treat compromised skin / Julia Baumann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)
PermalinkThe characterization of Pluronic P123 micelles in the presence of sunscreen agents in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)
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