Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 691-702 Titre : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Nathalie Borotra, Auteur ; Fernanda Chaves, Auteur ; Fabio Sanches, Auteur ; Anne L. Gaudry, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 691-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide ascorbique glucoside Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Explant de peau Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau humaine Protection cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations. - Methods : Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase. - Results : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions. - Conclusion : A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Storage stability - Penetration and metabolism in viable fresh human skin explants - HPLC/UV analysis of AA and AA2G - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Stability of AA2G and AA in formulations - Prodrug concept: AA release in fresh viable human skin explants from AA2G - Kinetic of penetration of AA2G vs. AA formulations in fresh viable human skin explants - Antioxidant protection of AA2G in RHE model DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12745 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBKOIM98kz6UIcCT2A28dTue6JagkvCH/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37050 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Evolution des modèles 3D de peau humaine / Rachida Nachat-Kappes in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 65 (09-10/2020)  

[article]  inEXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 65 (09-10/2020) . - p. 70-81 Titre : Evolution des modèles 3D de peau humaine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 70-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Bio-impression Biomécanique Dermo-cosmétologie Explant de peau Microbiome cutané Modèles techniques Peau -- analyse Peau -- Physiopathologie Peau reconstruite Structures tridimensionnelles Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Les nouvelles techniques d'ingénierie tissulaire ont permis d'énormes avancées dans le domaine de la médecine régénérative. Elles ont conduit au développement de modèles tridimensionnels de peau humaine de plus en plus complexes. Focus sur les dernières innovations d'ingénieries cutanées et leurs applications. Note de contenu : - L'utilité des modèles 3D en dermo-cosmétique - Des explants standardisés de "vraie" peau humaine - Les modèles reconstruits : une innovation permanente - Des modèles sur-mesure en fonction des problématiques ciblées - Modéliser des pathologies inflammatoires et pigmentaires - Vieillissement : des modèles personnalisables à souhait - La bioimpression : vers un virage technologique des modèles 3D ? - Un microbiome à ne plus ignorer - Et le tissu adipeux dans tout ça ? - Tenir compte de la biomécanique de la peau - Fig. 1 : De l'identification des propriétés biologiques, vers la revendication cosmétique - Fig. 2 : Reconstruction d'un épiderme sur un derme humain acellulaire déépidermisé (DED). Observation histologique (coloration hémalun-eosine) d'un épiderme reconstruit après 10 et 12 jours de culture - Fig. 3 : Kit d'explants standardisé - Fig. 4 : Coloration au rouge de nil d'une bio-imprimée de trois couches : épiderme, derme, hypoderme - Fig. 5 : Modèles in vitro de pathologies cutanées utilisant des cocktails de cytokines - Fig. 6 : Bio-imprimantes de CTIBIOTECH avec trois têtes d'impression - Fig. 7 : Co-culture de tissu adipeux mature et fibroblastes - Photo : Comparaison entre épiderme reconstruit in vitro sur derme humain acellulaire déépidermisé (DED) et explant de peau normale En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/154kyR1Sb8F0TuTGDqBd49uMcQ7EC4oS8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35013 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
22502	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Formulation of survival acceptor medium able to maintain the viability of skin explants over in vitro dermal experiments / M. Tarnowska in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 617-623 Titre : Formulation of survival acceptor medium able to maintain the viability of skin explants over in vitro dermal experiments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Tarnowska, Auteur ; Stéphanie Briançon, Auteur ; J. Resende de Azevedo, Auteur ; Yves Chevalier, Auteur ; C. Barratier, Auteur ; T. Pourcher, Auteur ; Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 617-623 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Diffusion (physique) Etude in vitro Explant de peau Franz, Cellules de Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Pénétration (physique) Tests de sécurité Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In vitro assessments of skin absorption of xenobiotics are essential for toxicological evaluations and bioavailability studies of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. Since skin metabolism can greatly contribute to xenobiotic absorption, experiments need to be performed with skin explants kept viable in suitable survival media. Existing protocols for non-viable skin are modified to consider those conditions. The objective was to design a survival medium used as an acceptor fluid in Franz cells for testing cutaneous penetration of hydrophilic or lipophilic molecules. Their metabolism inside skin may be investigated under the same conditions. The determining factors involved in survival mechanisms in vitro are discussed. The consequences of short-term skin preservation at 4°C were also evaluated. - Methods : The metabolic activity of fresh skin samples mounted in Franz cells was studied by measurement of lactate release over 24 h in order to assess the impacts of pH, buffering, osmolality, ionic strength, initial glucose supply and the addition of ethanol or non-ionic surfactant in the acceptor part of Franz cells. - Conclusion : Survival media must maintain physiological pH (>5.5) be isotonic with skin cells (300 mOsm kg−1) and contain at least 0.5 g L−1 glucose. Several compositions able to preserve skin metabolism are reported. Storage of skin explants overnight at 4°C impairs skin metabolic activity. The present work provides guidelines for designing survival media according to constraints related to the scientific requirements of the experiments. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Chemicals - Methods - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Impact of pH control - Impact of osmolality - Impact of initial glucose concentration - Impact of additives used in receptor fluid for penetration studies of hydrophobic molecules - Influence of short-time storage of skin explants at 4°C DOI : 10.1111/ics.12581 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E1etDHdSDixcSc7AylceBiX0FDRvyH8o/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33671 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21409	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

A Harungana madagascariensis extract with retinol-like properties: Gene upregulations and protein expressions in human fibroblasts and skin explants / Richard Fitoussi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 201-215 Titre : A Harungana madagascariensis extract with retinol-like properties: Gene upregulations and protein expressions in human fibroblasts and skin explants Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Richard Fitoussi, Auteur ; Marie-Christine Branchet, Auteur ; Natacha Garnier, Auteur ; Gallic Beauchef, Auteur ; Alex Nkengne, Auteur ; Katell Vié, Auteur ; Sylvie Boisnic, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 201-215 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Explant de peau Expression génique Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fibroblastes Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Because they limit, even reverse, age-induced skin alterations, retinoids became a staple in cosmetology. However, their use can result in undesired secondary effects and there is a demand for natural sources of compounds with retinoid-like effects. A preliminary screening identified a Harungana madagascariensis plant extract (HME) as possibly inducing genes stimulated by retinol. We analysed its effect on gene and protein expression, comparing it to retinoids. - Methods : Gene expression was analysed by real-time qPCR on RNA from isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or the plant extract for 6, 48 or 96 h. Skin markers were quantified in fibroblasts cultured with retinol or extract containing medium, and UV-aged skin explants subjected to topical applications of creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME. - Results : Real-time qPCR shows that the extract induced all RARs and RXRs, even RXRγ that was not induced by retinol. Eighty-eight per cent of the 25 early retinoid reaction genes induced by a concentration of retinol are induced by the extract. In fibroblasts, only the extract increased collagen III labelling, while collagen I and fibronectin labelling are increased by retinol and the extract, with higher levels for the extract. When topically applied to UV-aged skin explants, only the cream containing the HME led to increased labelling of CRABP1 in the epidermis. CRABP2 and Ki67 are induced by all three creams and no effect was detected on RXRs. In the dermisthe extract containing cream increased CRABP2, total collagen, procollagen I and collagen I while creams with retinol or retinaldehyde only affected some of these proteins. - Conclusions : The HME induces an overall retinol-like gene induction profile in isolated fibroblasts and retinoid-like stimulation of protein synthesis in both isolated fibroblasts and photoaged skin explants. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Skin explants - Preparation of fibroblast culture - Treatment of fibroblasts with retinol or HME - Preparation of RNA, reverse transcription and real-time qPCR Immunofluorescent quantification of collagens and fibronectin in fibroblasts - UV-induced ageing of skin explants and topical treatment with creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME - Immunolabeling of skin fragments - ELISA quantification of procollagen I - Spectrocolourimetric quantification of elastin - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Real-time qPCR comparative gene expression between isolated fibroblasts cultured in the presence of retinol or HME - Expression levels of collagen and fibronectin in isolated fibroblasts cultured in the presence of retinol or HME - Comparison of the effect of commercially available creams containing retinol or retinaldehyde with those induced by a cream containing the HME on the expression of proteins in UV-aged skin explants - Table 1 : Median of the maximum induction folds for the 27 genes tested by real-time qPCR in isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or HME - Table 2 : Pearson's correlation coefficients of the maximum induction fold for the 27 genes tested by real-time qPCR in isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or HME DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12768 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1osna4IvYNdLBuq-0tyJg-4r6AU5Y8VDF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37723 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage / Sophie Abadie in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 594-603 Titre : A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Abadie, Auteur ; Philippe Bedos, Auteur ; J. Rouquette, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 594-603 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Explant de peau Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Rayonnement ultraviolet A Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main function of skin is to protect the body from external aggressions. Over time, normal skin ageing is accelerated by external stresses such as smoking, pollution, chemical products and radiation. UV light, in particular UVA, causes DNA damage, apoptosis and morphological modifications, which are responsible for both premature ageing and cancer. The aim of this study was to establish a discriminatory and sufficiently reproducible cutaneous model for evaluating UVA damage, to enable testing for effectiveness of potentially protective compounds. - Methods : The cutaneous model is based on Human skin explants irradiated with UVA. Deleterious effects on epidermis were observed and quantified by haematoxylin–eosin staining and by immunofluorescence of y-H2Ax, cytokeratin 5, involucrin and loricrin protein. Dermis deterioration was evaluated by transmission electronic microscopy and zymography in situ. - Results : We were able to observe and quantify deleterious effects associated with UVA irradiation: epidermal and dermal disruption, appearance of Sunburn cells, increased DNA damage and induced apoptosis. The use of this model in the evaluation of protective compounds was first confirmed using sunscreens, then further validated with a panel of active ingredients which showed beneficial effects on epidermis morphology and DNA integrity after UVA exposure. - Conclusion : We have developed a model and a standardized protocol, based on the use of human skin explants, which allows us to explore the protective effect of active ingredients to environmental stresses such as UVA. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human skin tissue collection - UVA irradiation - Compounds - Histological analysis - Immunostaining - TUNEL assay - Transmission electron microscopy on dermis - Zymography in situ - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : UVA irradiation causes epidermal disruption - UVA irradiation induces double-strand DNA breaks and apoptosis of keratinocytes - Effects of UVA irradiation on the extracellular matrix of the dermis - A cutaneous model to explore the effect of new protective compounds against UVA DOI : 10.1111/ics.12579 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oEJ8PMUgmYbSCqYb-rUmWILUY8tIbO0L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33668 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21409	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Microneedle patch based on dissolving, detachable microneedle technology for improved skin quality - Part 1 : ex vivo safety evaluation / V. Zvezdin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

Permalink

---

1 (1 - 6 / 6)