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Methylisothiazolinone concerns in the media / Chris Smith in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 10 Titre : Methylisothiazolinone concerns in the media Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 10 Note générale : Sites internet Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques Méthylisothiazolinone Toxicologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent months there has been a lot of media coverage about concerns over the use of methylisothiazolinone (MIT). Several dermatologists have been raising concerns about potential allergic reactions to MIT, and there are calls for a review of the safety of this widely used preservative. we are aware of activities within the cosmetic industry to address and respond to the recent MIT coverage. Note de contenu : - Comments from dermatologists - Brief history of methylisothiazolinone use - Industry reaction En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jgRUZ4FYE7-cQ80ycAdjhXj1A4OL-oga/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19868 [article]

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Formulating broad spectrum UV protection products / Afshan Nayyir-Mazhir in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 21-24 Titre : Formulating broad spectrum UV protection products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Afshan Nayyir-Mazhir, Auteur ; Kathryn McNeil, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 21-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Formulation (Génie chimique) Oxyde de zinc Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Varying legislations and guidelines regarding UV filters and the levels of UVA protection required in different regions has been a challenges in different regions has been a challenge for sunscreen formulators in recent years. Confidence in the use of ZnO in products claiming UV protection has increased stemming from the change in the SCCS opinion and has provided formulators with more options when creating a broad spectrumUV protection product. Improved knowledge about the relationship between TiO2 and ZnO allow the formulator to have a better understanding of how to formulate SPF products with broad spectrum protection allowing them more time to focus on creating aesthetics suitable for everyday use. The results from a comparative study with varying ratios make it easier to determine the levels of TiO2 and ZnO to use in order to obtain the desired SPF, critical wavelength and UVAPF saving valuable time and enabling more efficient development of formulations. Note de contenu : - UV FILTERS : Regulatory limitations - Formulation strategies - EXPERIMENTAL STUDY : Formulating with zinc oxide - Table 1 : PPD grading - Table 2 : Results on comparative study with varying levels of ZnO:TiO2 - Formulation : Crystal clear sun lotion SPF 20 (C10158) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ip6n3wq9HsJkEj_EdlnpjIQCPzBU6TeK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19870 [article]

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The current state of UV filters / Gary Neudahl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 27-34 Titre : The current state of UV filters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gary Neudahl, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 27-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Législation Produits antisolaires Produits chimiques Règlements (droit administratif) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : UV filters are the workhorses of sun protection products. The rapidly growing markets for sunscreens and for beauty products that include sun protection mean that more and more formulators around the world are turning to UV filters. In 2008, Personal Care Europe published an overview of sunscreen regulations, which focused on approved UV filters in various countries. Since its publication, the worlds of UV filters, associated government regulations, and products that offer sun protection have evolved. Consumer demand for effective sun protection while enjoying outdoor activities has increased. Sun protection has become an integral part of daywear products like foundations and creams. Identification of approved UV filters is of great importance to formulators, marketers, and manufacturers, whether their finished products are primarily beauty products or sun care products. It is imperative that they understand which UV filters can be used in each locale. With such knowledge, finished products may be designed for regional or global markets and for optimal cost effectiveness. The knowledge of approved UV filters is also important to companies like HallStar Company. Although we do not manufacture or market UV filters at this time, HallStar supports UV filter producers and finished sunscreen marketers. When we understand their goals, we are able to offer ingredients that improve performance and consumer satisfaction, such as our HallBrite and Spectrasolv solvents for crystalline UV filters and SolaStay photostabilisers for photolabile UV filters. The results are sun care products with fully solubilised and optimally photostabilised UV filters (e.g., butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) that offer global acceptance and lower cost of goods. A word of caution to the reader: harmonisation of permitted UV filters and concentration ranges will probably never be achieved globally. Continued changes in permitted UV filter lists can therefore be expected. The formulator is encouraged to consult current and pending legislation related to consumer products in general and sunscreens in particular prior to initiating product development efforts. Note de contenu : Charts notes : ASEAN - Australia - Canada - China - EU - India - Japan - Korea - South Africa - Southern Common market - United States Tableau : Sunscreen regulations : UV filters and maximum concentrations or ranges - an updated comparison (2013) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/189Ay-_ZXlbEWfmlXOqJ-b9nbPgbeiWLP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19875 [article]

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Red algae extract improves barrier recovery / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 37-40 Titre : Red algae extract improves barrier recovery Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Produits hydratants Tags : 'L-  citrullinyl'  arginine'  'Acides  aminés'  Métabollites  'Osmolytes  cryoprotecteurs'  Dipeptide  'Algues  rouge'  'Extraits  de  plante'  'Préventation  la  déshydratation'  'Produits  hydratants'  Filaggrine  Glycérols  Transglutaminase  Aquaporine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Taken together our results support the anti-dehydrating efficacy of Arct'Alg extract, which is consistent with its high content in water-retaining metabolites including citrulline, taurine, arginine, polyols (floridosides). Also, the study of late barrier function restoration events (epidermal cell proliferation and terminal differentiation), outlined that treatment with Arct'Alg also improves barrier function recovery, which was compromised by acetone. This additional benefit may be directly related to its moisturising properties, since water content of the very superficiel epidermal layers regulates the catalytic activity of a number of enzymes, including enzymes responsible for the processing of filaggrin precursor protein.13 Barrier recovery improvement may also be the consequence of metabolic activation induced by some constituents of the Arct'Alg extract. Note de contenu : - Filaggrin - Aquaporin-3 (monitoring of barrier disruption early consequences) - Transglutaminase 1 (TGMA) late monitoring of the recovery process) - Nuclear antigen Ki67 (late monitoring of the recovery process) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MXdymYj4cNUsCOiesJU9S1t4XZvsC-xz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19876 [article]

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Analysing silicone quaternary compounds / Fenbao David Zhang in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 43-48 Titre : Analysing silicone quaternary compounds Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fenbao David Zhang, Auteur ; Rick Vrckovnik, Auteur ; Tony O'Lenick, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 43-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polymères quaternaires Produits antisolaires shampooings Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Solubilité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cationic silicone quats have typically been associated with hair care for conditioning. We have shown that the Silquat J2-2B series of Multi Domain Quats have excellent properties and a unique sensory profile. In this application, they provide unique lubricity, antistatic properties and smoothness to the hair fibres. These cationic conditioning properties can also be used in skin care formulations which will benefit skin with smooth powdery after-feel, extraordinary softness, unique lubricity and substantivity to the skin. Most important, Silquat J2-B Series are unique cationic oil-in-water emulsifiers for skin care, hair care, sun care and make-up products. The cationic products can be used as emulsifiers and conditioning reagents in the meantime, this functional transfer of some properties provides an innovative and economical platform to the formulator. Cationic emulsions offer a smooth powdery after-feel that allows high active loadings without sacrificing efficacy. They can offer the formulator a new tool in developing products to meet consumer needs and wants. These cationic emulsifiers can be also used in combination with a non-ionic organic or a silicone emulsifier to impart some unique sensory properties such as improved softness, smooth powdery dry feel and smooth powdery velvety skin feel. Cationic emulsifiers can mask the negative sensory properties of high lipophilic loading in skin moisturisation with specific aesthetics, rendering the products with a very soft smooth powdery skin feel. Cationic emulsifiers offer formulators a means to formulate high lipophilic, high SPF and high concentration of pigments in skin care, sun care and make up products to achieve some enhanced consumer benefits which do not feel oily and have heavy coverage but still spread and feel easy on skin. Silquat J2-4B has good foam performance in shampoo. Note de contenu : - MULTI-DOMAIN SILICONE QUATERNARY POLYMERS : Structure - EMULSIFICATION : Microscopic study of cationic O/W skin care creams - Microscopic study of cationic rich and repairing hair conditioner - Microscopic study of cationic sun care cream - O/W cationic foundation formulation - CONDITIONING : Foam performance evaluation of 2-in-1 shampoos - Evaluation of performance by hair swatches - Tableau 2 : Solubility of silquat J2-B series - Tableau 3 : Specifications of O/W cationic rich and repairing hair conditioners - Tableau 4 : Specification of 2-in-1 shampoo with silquat J2-B series - Tableau 5 : Wet comb evaluations - Tableau 6 : Dry comb evaluations - Formulation 1 : O/W cationic skin care cream formule - Formulation 2 : O/W cationic rich and repairing hair conditioner formula - Formulation 3 : Formula of O/W cationic sun care cream - Formulation 4 : Formula of O/W cationic foundation - Formulation 5 : Formula of 2-in-1 shampoo with silquat J2-B series En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TnGjnd6aUhDHnKdCzxAFz6y0XVZg9TAx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19877 [article]

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Understanding the need for preservation in personal care / Laura M. Szymczak-Frye in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 51-54 Titre : Understanding the need for preservation in personal care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laura M. Szymczak-Frye, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Contamination microbienne Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The topic of preservation in personal care is heightening and is on the forefront of the minds of cosmetic companies, formulators, and consumers. There is an interesting divide in the way that certain consumers and companies are approaching preservation. While many understand that preservatives are safe when used at the recommended concentrations supported by Regulatory Authorities, others feel that all preservatives are harmful and they seek alternatives. Consumers generally prefer their personal care products to have the fewest ingredients possible, with those ingredients as natural as possible. However, it is important to note that there are many negative consequences tied to not properly preserving a product. Note de contenu : - What is a preservative ? - WHY ARE PRESERVATIVES USED IN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS ? - WHAT PRESERVATIVES ARE PERMITTED FOR PERSONAL CARE ? - IS THERE A RISK TO REMOVING APPROVED PRESERVATIVES FROM THE MARKET ? - WHY DO SOME BELIEVE IT IS BETTER TO NOT USE A PRESERVATIVE ? - WHY ARE FINISHED GOODS MANUFACTURERS CONSIDERING LESS PRESERVATION ? - WHERE IS THE RISK ? : Recalls - Costs to recall and dispose product, loss of product and packaging - Lawsuit - Brand equity and negative brand perception En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AWqRQDc-TL6h6uv07b9wOfE2k0pQ5Tzn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19878 [article]

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Epidermal hyaluronic acid : a new look at hydration / Gabrielle Moro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 56-58 Titre : Epidermal hyaluronic acid : a new look at hydration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabrielle Moro, Auteur ; Pierre-Yves Morvan, Auteur ; Romuald Vallée, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 56-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Hydratation Peau noire -- Soins et hygiène Tags : 'Acide  hyaluronique'  'Propriétés  hygroscopiques'  Synthèse  'Claudine  1'  'Restructuration  de  la  peau'  Hydratation  Filaggrine  'Soin  Cosmétique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Even though it is famous for its hydrating and skin-filling properties, hyaluronic acid is not as well known as it may appear. Although present to a higher degree in the extracellular matrix of the dermis, it is also found in the epidermis where its function presents an unused potential for hydration and overall skin restructuring strategies. By developing Hydranov, a high technological furcellaran concentrate, Codif Recherche et Nature is targeting epidermal hyaluronic acid to generate an overall hydra-restructuring effect and a greatly enhanced hyaluronic-like result. Note de contenu : - Epidermal hyaluronic acid : a still overlooked potential - Comparative study of hygroscopic properties - Effect on epidermal hyaluronic acid synthesis - Action on claudin 1 : new target for restructuring - Activation of filaggrin metabolism to reinforce NMFs - Comparative hydrating properties En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y1S2wSSxPVxNvCqlPKSCxZoFI4Ye633v/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19879 [article]

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Genetic integrity for a rejuvenated skin look / Marta Rull in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 61-66 Titre : Genetic integrity for a rejuvenated skin look Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Rull, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Wim Van Den Nest, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 61-66 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : ADN -- Réparation Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Hexapeptides Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The daily exposure to DNA-damaging agents leads to errors that accumulate year by year as the natural repair mechanisms become less active when ageing. Among the agents that help to delete these undesired changes, FOX03a is highlighted as an essential transcriptional factor that regulates the expression of genes implied in the repair and removal of genetic errors, depending on the severity. FOX03a is then vital to maintain genetic integrity. Acetyl hexapeptide-51 amide is an innovative peptide that stimulates the same natural DNA-repair pathways as FOX03a, being able to activate the FOX03a responsive elements by 1.9 times and raise the DNA-repair pathways by 2.7 times. Besides, it protects from UV radiation and pollution, in vitro increasing cellular viability and decreasing the induced damage, and in vivo reducing UV-induced damage by 16.6%, at 2% peptide solution. Additionally, it also proved to in vitro diminish the number of senescent cells by 64.6%, which means 11 years of cellular rejuvenation. Thus, Juvefoxo peptide acts as a guardian of genetic integrity that helps to repair or remove genetic errors that can result in a skin worsening even at a macroscopic level. This hexapeptide rejuvenates and improves skin aspect, enhancing natural repairing mechanisms and raising protection from daily damaging agents. Note de contenu : - NATURAL DNA REPAIRING MECHANISMS - FOXO TRANSCRIPTIONAL FACTORS AND LONGEVITY - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Activation of FOXO3a responsive elements - DNA-repair pathways activation - Photoprotection efficacy - DNA-protective effect against photoactivated BaP - Reverting cellular senescence - In vivo repair of UV-induced DNA damage - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Activation of FOXO3a responsive elements - DNA-repair pathways activation - Photoprotection efficacy - DNA-protective effect against photoactivated BaP - Reverting cellular senescence - In vivo repair of UV-induced DNA damage En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pYCJHClrtfJa4GpA_Ur9J79B_mov4ALE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19881 [article]

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Natural hair conditioning : a green approach / Sébastien Barré in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 68-69 Titre : Natural hair conditioning : a green approach Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sébastien Barré, Auteur ; Pascale Goyat, Auteur ; George Rosson, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 68-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Emollients Esters Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels shampooings Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Extensive laboratory evaluation has shown the above materials to be highly effective as natural based replacements for silicone in conditioning and hair care applications. These innovative ingredients allow cosmetic formulators to develop finished products based on vegetable derived ingredients which conform to modem trends without compromising important parameters such as efficacy and sensorial performance which have great impact on consumer perception. Consequently hair care products today can be both green and efficient, satisfying all the criteria which are considered of major importance by informed, motivated and environmentally-savvy consumers which place emphasis on issues such as renewability, sustainability and eco-friendliness while still looking for quality, performance and cost-effectiveness in the personal care products they purchase. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x7X_M6PfQEKWYW1n8TdRR1Rxmh1E1Qaa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19882 [article]

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Boerhaavia diffusa active treats hyperpigmentation / Blanca Martinez-Teipel in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 71-75 Titre : Boerhaavia diffusa active treats hyperpigmentation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Lourdes Mayordomo, Auteur ; Laura Gallego, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 71-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Anti tyrosinase Antienzymes Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, uneven skin pigmentation and spots are considered a major sign of skin ageing, affecting lots of people all over the world. Hyperpigmentation is mainly due to the presence of melanin, which is synthesised by the tyrosinase enzyme. Until now, most cosmetics treatments for hyperpigmentation have this enzyme as the primary target, but Provital has developed a novel active that acts by means of a very unique mechanism: the prolonged stimulation of PPARy; which leads to the inhibition of a transcription factor that control the genes encoding tyrosinase and other enzymes. Both in vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated the efficacy and safety of this active. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1saB6WlSq9I9pvEZVrI-A0VQkPIFUEvFq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19883 [article]

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Imparting mildness with living tea plant ingredient / Michael Koganov in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 77-81 Titre : Imparting mildness with living tea plant ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Koganov, Auteur ; Li Zhang, Auteur ; Artyom Duev, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 77-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Cosmétiques Dodécyl sulfate de sodium Le laurylsulfate de sodium (LSS) ou dodécylsulfate de sodium (SDS) est un détergent et tensioactif ionique fort, couramment utilisé en biochimie et biologie moléculaire. C'est un composé à ne pas confondre avec le laureth sulfate de sodium. La concentration micellaire critique du SDS varie de 0,007 à 0,01 mol/L dans l'eau à 25°C. Le dodécylsulfate de sodium (en anglais, Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate ou SDS ou/ NaDS), de formule C12H25NaO4S, aussi connu sous le nom de laurylsulfate de sodium (en anglais, sodium lauryl sulfate ou SLS), est un tensioactif ionique qui est utilisé dans les produits ménagers tels que les dentifrices, shampooings, mousses à raser ou encore bains moussants pour ses effets épaississants et sa capacité à créer une mousse, il est également repris comme additif alimentaire par le codex alimentarius (E487). La molécule est composée d’une chaîne de 12 atomes de carbone, rattachée à un groupement sulfate conférant à la molécule les propriétés amphiphiles requises pour un détergent. Le SDS est préparé par sulfonation du dodécanol (alcool de lauryl, C12H25OH), suivie par une neutralisation par du carbonate de sodium. Le SDS est utilisé aussi bien dans les procédés industriels que pour les produits cosmétiques destinés au grand public. Ethoxylate d'alcool Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surfactants Théier et constituants Toxicologie cellulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As previously shown, Recentia CS obtained from living Camellia sinensis (tea) plants via patented Zeta Fraction technology has greater diversity of constituents and exhibits superior multifunctional antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities than traditional green tea and black tea; it also possesses photostabilisation properties. In this article, Recentia CS is evaluated in in vitro surfactant-induced skin cell inflammation/irritation model to determine if this ingredient has potential to reduce undesirable impact of personal care and cleansing products. Cultured human epidermal keratinocytes (HEK) were treated with surfactants to induce release of key inflammatory cytokine interleukin (IL-1a) and key chemokine interleukin (IL-8). Cytotoxicity was evaluated with Lactate Dehydrogenase (LDH) assay. Based on cytotoxicity data and abilities to induce release of IL-la, six representatives of four different classes of surfactants were ranked. A nonionic ethoxylated alcohol was the mildest surfactant and was able to induce release of IL-la but not IL-8. It was found that Recentia CS was a potent inhibitor of IL-la and IL-8 in HEK treated with either Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) or ethoxylated alcohol. Activity of Recentia CS was comparable to 2-acetoxybenzoic acid (positive control for IL-1a) for inhibition of IL-la induced by either SDS or ethoxylated alcohol. The 2-acetoxybenzoic acid was ineffective for inhibition of IL-la induced by ethoxylated alcohol. Importantly, Recentia CS inhibited both SDS-induced and basal level IL-8 in keratinocytes, while SB203580 (positive control for IL-8) inhibited SDS-induced IL-8 only. Traditional green tea and black tea preparations obtained from the same cultivar as Recentia CS failed to inhibit IL-la and IL-8 induced by either SDS or ethoxylated alcohol. Thus, Recentia CS provides not only superior multifunctional antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, as well as photo-stabilisation properties, but also significantly imparts mildness to novel personal care and cleansing products by mitigating surfactant-induced skin inflammatory and irritation responses. Note de contenu : - SDS : Dose-dependent induction of key skin inflammatory mediators IL-1α and IL-8 - Comparison of representatives of different classes of surfactants - Ethoxylated alcohol : induction of dose-dependent release of IL-1α, but not IL-8 - Inhibition of SDS-induced IL-1α and IL-8, compared to anti-inflammatory benchmarks - Inhibition of IL-1α release induced by the ethoxylated alcohol - Superior benefits to preparations of green tea and black tea - Mitigation of skin irritation an inflammation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n2JlRMg0tLOnWT_dqHndB1OgTq4BggwI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19884 [article]

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Clinically proven benefits of organic certified products / Andrea Mitarotonda in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 87-90 Titre : Clinically proven benefits of organic certified products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea Mitarotonda, Auteur ; Frances Johnson, Auteur ; Lucy Koch, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 87-90 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biocosmétiques Etudes cliniques Evaluation Maquillage Mascaras Qualité -- Contrôle Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is a general belief that natural and organic cosmetic products cannot deliver strong benefits and only basic claims can be achieved. This is due to the limited number of ingredients available to those who are formulating certified products. When transposed to skin care claims, it usually means hydration and moisturisation derived benefits. When it comes to makeup, the absence of truly performing colour cosmetics can lead 'green consumers' to look at more standard brands in order to get their favourite look. With this article the authors would like to demonstrate that it is possible to develop organic certified products that are clinically proven to be effective. Note de contenu : - Approach to effective formulation of skin care products - Development of a clinically proven organic certified skin care product - Development of a clinically proven organic certified mascara En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cUdrILNm6gh_UyWkpLWrVUykHPNWNB9g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19885 [article]

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New silicone technologies for hair and skin / Beth Johnson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 92-96 Titre : New silicone technologies for hair and skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Beth Johnson, Auteur ; Jason Vogel, Auteur ; Feifei Lin, Auteur ; Sabrina Marchioretto, Auteur ; Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur ; Rose Bao, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 92-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) shampooings Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumer expectations for today's hair and skin care products are often led by fast-paced trends. As a result, personal care product development can be driven in part by visions of what might be — often before technology can catch up with solutions and products that turn imagination into reality. Through innovative material development, specialty silicones keep stretching the boundary of hair and skin care technology — allowing creative formulators to deliver products that capture the attention of discriminating consumers, whatever their age. Note de contenu : - Moisturised hair - more than feel - Linking moisturisation to hair repair - Skin care with new lightness and smoothness - Flexibility for formulation texture - Functional benefits, high performance - Formulation 1 : Age-defying repair shampoo - Formulation 2 : Age defying repair rinse-off conditioner - Formulation 3 : Oil-in water cream - Formulation 4 : Matte smoothing aqua gel - Table 1 : Specialty silicones for hair repair - Table 2 : Viscosity range for water-in-oil systems with two silicone elastomer powders, compared to blank formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kc6F0Tl6_0Nx2quIDIHJ1igDJbppLsqV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19886 [article]

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Basics on skin barrier function / Rachida Nachat-Kappes in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 98-104 Titre : Basics on skin barrier function Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 98-104 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Peau -- Anatomie et histologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Our skin ensures a vital barrier between the body and the environment. It prevents dehydration, limits penetration of exogenous substances and protects from mechanical stress. The stratum corneum corresponds to the outermost layer of the epidermis and is largely responsible for the barrier function establishment. Until the seventies, the stratum corneum, which is composed of dead and flattened 'mummified' cells called corneocytes, was thought to be biologically inert. ln the late seventies and in the eighties emerged the important concept of barrier function with the model of the 'brick wall' proposed by Peter Elias. In this model, the corneocytes were the bricks, embedded within an intercellular lipid substance, which was the mortar, considered responsible for Cell cohesion. Since then many other actors have been found to contribute significantly to the formation of the epidermal barrier. Among these factors, tight junctions, cohesion structures including desmosomes and corneodesmosomes, scaffolding proteins (involucrin/envoplakin/ periplakin), filaggrin, proteases, proteases inhibitors and antimicrobial peptides all play an important role in maintaining barrier function. This review will cover all these components and how important they are to provide adequate barrier function. Thus, we will show how sophisticated is the cutaneous barrier function and that a better understanding of how it takes place, is essential to develop new cosmetic actives with skin-barrier reinforcing properties. Note de contenu : - STRATUM CORNEUM STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION : The cornified envelope - The antimicrobial defences of the skin - PH - Antimicrobial peptides - Skin microbiome - LAMELLAR BODIES : KEY COMPONENTS OF THE BARRIER FUNCTION : SC extracellular lipids composition and organisation - Proteases and protease inhibitors - Adherens junctions and tight junctions - (Corneo)-desmosomes - SKIN HYDRATION : Natural moisturising factor - Composition - Origin of NMF - AQUAPORINS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_QkzVqSmxUyowMPjIcn1WZWIDs1JcQUI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19887 [article]

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A new, natural oil thickener investigated / Fernando Ibarra in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 106-107 Titre : A new, natural oil thickener investigated Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fernando Ibarra, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 106-107 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles et graisses Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits naturels Rhéologie Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dermofeel viscolid is an excellent natural thickener for oils and can convert every liquid oil into a solid product. dermofeel viscolid works with mineral oils, silicons, ester oils and vegetable oils that can be mixed with essential oils too. The solidifying properties of this 100% natural raw material make it possible to increase the viscosity of W/0 emulsions without increasing the body or sensorial profile of the formulation. However, the main application may be the production of spa products. The viscosity of massage products can easily be increased with the help of dermofeel viscolid but on the skin the jellified oil melts and recovers its original liquid and oily skin feel. Thus upon melting on the skin it does not change the skin feel of the massage oil. Note de contenu : - Thickening made easy - Viscosity increase in W/O and film-forming properties - Formulation 1 : Natural massage oil gel formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bpunFxDaz3Q--Eu01aHgcZb3dQcmhXqF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19888 [article]

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Male grooming : the overdue arrival of a false dawn / Nick Brown in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 109-111 Titre : Male grooming : the overdue arrival of a false dawn Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nick Brown, Auteur ; Daniel Whitby, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 109-111 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Marketing Produits de beauté masculins Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Despite undeniable growth, there stil) remain some barriers to sales growing further. A recent article estimated men's use of their partner's toiletries products could amount to a £234 per annum. Going forward, the challenge for the brands will be to market their products in such a way as to attract this huge untapped potential. Brands such as Bulldog have very effectively addressed a gap in the market, offering a solution to male consumers who desire natural, ethical products, specifically designed for men. In addition to their diverse and exclusively male orientated product offering, their impeccably crafted campaign with comedian David Mitchell is now considered a case study for digital marketing." Innovative male targeted advertising campaigns have proven to be popular among males, with Lynx's 'newsjacking' of Prince Harry's hotel room misdemeanours going viral and largely well received. The importance of activity in the digital space is borne out by Marc Pritchard, global marketing and brand building officer at P&G, who daims that: "Today is not about digital marketing, it's about brand building in the digital world." With the success of male grooming drawing in an ever increasing amount of new entrants, brands must seek a competitive advantage more than ever in this congested market. The dawn has certainly arrived. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gNInGrbue26vhpkJumd4Zx3Madai26VA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19889 [article]

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New solution for foaming hygiene products in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013) . - p. 103-105 Titre : New solution for foaming hygiene products Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 103-105 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epaississants Hygiène Peau -- Nettoyage Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Showers have gained in popularity in the lest few decades and as consumers habits shift from taking baths to showers the personal care cleansing market has also gradually changed. According to Mintel, in 2012, green trends including water conservation and manufacturer innovation favoured the launch of body wash and shower products to that of traditional bar soap. More recently basic body washes have been upgraded to more enticing formulations containing all types of bells and whistles as have shampoos. White efficiency remains the number one consumer demand, formulators are becoming more and more creative in order to create brand loyalty and deliver additional benefits. Today's body wash offering is colourful or transparent, fragranced and often has an assortment of insoluble suspended particles. ln addition, as consumer education continues to improve pH balanced or natural pH formulations are in high demand. Formulating these new generation body washes can be a difficult task without the right rheology modifier. Note de contenu : - A rheological modifier for new generation hygiene formulations - Sulfate-free formulas and the new rheology modifier En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qMTc_GNhyYAfTYMXss8Nx6GPc85bSCZW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19890 [article]

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