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Relationships between hair growth rate and morphological parameters of human straight hair : a same law above ethnical origins ? / C. Saint-Olive Baque in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 111-116 Titre : Relationships between hair growth rate and morphological parameters of human straight hair : a same law above ethnical origins ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Saint-Olive Baque, Auteur ; J. Zhou, Auteur ; W. Gu, Auteur ; C. Collaudin, Auteur ; S. Kravtchenko, Auteur ; J. Y. Kempf, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 111-116 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cuticule Follicule pileux Groupe ethnique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : After measurement of individual growth rates, natural hair fibres from Asian and Caucasian subjects were analysed using scanning electron microscopy. In total, more than 1000 hairs were analysed. Measurements of diameter, medulla and interscale distance (average distance between two successive cuticle scales) show these parameters strongly correlated with hair growth rate. A thicker hair fibre corresponds to a faster growth rate, a shorter interscale distance and greater probability to have a medulla, and vice versa, a thin hair fibre shows slower growth rate, a larger interscale distance and a lower probability to have a medulla. Very interestingly, this finding appears to be unrelated to the ethnic origin of the subjects, suggesting a common characteristic of human hair, at least for the straight or semi-straight hair studied. From a practical viewpoint, this finding clearly suggests an alternative method for measuring hair growth rates, by measuring the interscale distance, which appears easier than using common laboratory equipments. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human volunteers and hair sampling - Measurement of growth - Determination of the presence of medulla - Measurement of the diameter and interscale distance - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Medullation of hair DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00687.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00687.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14380 [article]

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UV absorption and scattering properties of inorganic-based sunscreens / Terry A. Egerton in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 117-122 Titre : UV absorption and scattering properties of inorganic-based sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Terry A. Egerton, Auteur ; Ian R. Tooley, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 117-122 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dioxyde de titane Oxyde de zinc Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Absorption Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article first introduces the concepts that underlie the calculations of scattering and absorption of light by small particles. Results of Mie theory calculations of light scattering and light absorption by 20, 50 and 100 nm TiO2 and ZnO particles are then presented. As the attenuation, or extinction, by these particles is the sum of the scattering and absorption, the attenuation can then be calculated for wavelengths over the UVA and UVB region. These theoretical results are then shown to be in reasonable agreement with experimental results for alkyl benzoate dispersions of three different types of TiO2 particle whose mean sizes range from 35 to 145 nm. Finally, the link between these measurements and the absorption curves of formulated dispersions of sunscreens are demonstrated and related to in vitro SPF and UVAPF measurements. Note de contenu : - The underlying concepts - The application of these concepts - Materials and methods - Application in sunscreen DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00689.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00689.x Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14381 [article]

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Photochemical interaction of ascorbic acid with riboflavin, nicotinamide and alpha-tocopherol in cream formulations / I. Ahmad in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 123-131 Titre : Photochemical interaction of ascorbic acid with riboflavin, nicotinamide and alpha-tocopherol in cream formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Ahmad, Auteur ; M. A. Sheraz, Auteur ; S. Ahmed, Auteur ; F. H. M. Vaid, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 123-131 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ascorbique, Acide Cosmétiques Dynamique moléculaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Photochimie Produits hydratants Vitamine B Vitamine B2 Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The present work is based on a study of the effect of some vitamins such as riboflavin (RF), nicotinamide (NA) and alpha-tocopherol (TP) on the photodegradation of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) (AH2) in oil-in-water cream formulations using a UV irradiation source. A UV spectrophotometric and the official iodimetric methods have been used for the assay of AH2 in cream formulations. These methods have been validated in the presence of RF, NA and TP before their application to the creams. The recoveries of AH2 in the creams are in the range of 90–95% and the reproducibility of the method is within ±5%. The apparent first-order rate constants (kobs) for the photodegradation of AH2 in the presence of RF, NA and TP, individually, in the creams have been obtained. The second-order rate constants for the photochemical interaction of AH2 and the vitamins RF, NA and TP have been determined from the plots of kobs for AH2 photolysis versus the individual vitamin concentration along with the values of k0 from the intercept on the vertical axis. The values of k0 in the presence of RF and NA are lower than those of the kobs, indicating that these vitamins act as photosensitizers for the degradation of AH2 in creams. On the contrary, the value of k0 in the presence of TP is higher than that of the kobs, suggesting a stabilizing effect of this vitamin on the degradation of AH2 in creams. The mode of interaction of the individual vitamins with AH2 on photolysis has been discussed. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cream formulations - Preparation of cream formulations - Measurement of pH - Measurement of light intensity - Photolysis of cream formulations - Measurement of absorption spectra - Thin-layer chromatography - RF and photoproducts - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Absorption characteristics of photolysed creams - Photoproducts of ascorbic acid and other vitamins - Assay method - Kinetics of photodegradation of ascorbic acid - Interaction of riboflavin with ascorbic acid - Interaction of nicotinamide with ascorbic acid - Interaction of ?-tocopherol with ascorbic acid - Effect of physicochemical factors DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00690.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00690.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14382 [article]

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Skin benefits of a myconoside-rich extract from resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis / Giorgio Dell'Acqua in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 132-139 Titre : Skin benefits of a myconoside-rich extract from resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Auteur ; Kuno Schweikert, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 132-139 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Elasticité Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Haberlea Rhodopensis Myconoside Oxydation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis develops molecules to survive drought stress. These molecules allow the plant to resurge from a desiccation state. We have extracted a specific fraction from the plant (Haberlea extract) and found it rich, among other molecules, of a caffeoyl phenylethanoid glycoside called myconoside, a molecule extremely abundant in the plant with a potential role in survival. Peroxide-stressed normal human dermal fibroblasts treated with the Haberlea extract, showed increased collagen VI (+822%), collagen XVI (+928%) and elastin (+144%) mRNA synthesis, measured by RT-qPCR. This effect was superior to those obtained with benchmarks retinoic acid and retinol. When used at 3% in human skin biopsies, Haberlea extract protected against UV-induced dermis oxidation by 100% (P < 0.01), as evidenced by immunohistochemistry. Finally, when tested in human volunteers (n = 20) at 3% in a cream against a placebo, Haberlea extract increased skin elasticity (3× placebo, P < 0.0002) and skin radiance (4× placebo, P < 0.05) after only 15 days of treatment, with the effect sustained after 30 and 60 days of treatment. We demonstrated that by using Haberlea extract (particularly rich in glycoside myconoside), it is possible to strongly stimulate antioxidant skin defences and extracellular matrix protein synthesis. This effect, in turn, will further stimulate skin elasticity and skin radiance significantly in human volunteers. The extract can be suggested for anti-ageing treatments, intended for claims such as protection from oxidation, increased skin elasticity and enhanced skin radiance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Scavenging activity - Gene expression profiling in H202-treated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) - Protein oxidation measurement in dermis of UV-irradiated human skin explants - Double-blind clinical studies for skin elasticity and skin radiance - RESULTS : In vitro and ex vivo data - Clinical study (in vivo data) - Statistical analysis DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00692.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00692.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14383 [article]

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A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream : the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance / M. Lukic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 140-149 Titre : A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream : the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Lukic, Auteur ; I. Jaksic, Auteur ; V. Krstonosic, Auteur ; N. Cekic, Auteur ; S. Savic, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 140-149 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Texture Emollients Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Mains -- Soins et hygiène Rhéologie Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - Assessment of efficacy (in vivo performance study) - Sensory evaluation - Microscopic analysis - Rheology measurements - Analysis of textural properties - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : A modified sensory evaluation - Instrumental measurement (physical characterization - In vivo skin performance study) DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14384 [article]

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Anti-melanoma, tyrosinase inhibitory and anti-microbial activities of gold nanoparticles synthesized from aqueous leaf extracts of Teraxacum officinale / C. O. Tettey in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 150-154 Titre : Anti-melanoma, tyrosinase inhibitory and anti-microbial activities of gold nanoparticles synthesized from aqueous leaf extracts of Teraxacum officinale Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. O. Tettey, Auteur ; P. C. Nagajyothi, Auteur ; S. E. Lee, Auteur ; A. Ocloo, Auteur ; T. N. Minh An, Auteur ; T. V. M. Sreekanth, Auteur ; K. D. Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 150-154 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Chimie écologique Composés organiques -- Synthèse Nanoparticules Or Toxicologie cellulaire Tyrosinase Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There has been a tenacious search for pharmaceuticals of natural origin, as they are cost-effective and are noted for having little or no side effects. The rate at which diseases are developing resistance to synthetic drugs is quite alarming, and the side effects of these drugs remain an excruciating agony to the pharmaceutical industry. Gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) have wide applications in current technology. However, their use in medicine has not been adequately explored. Chemical methods for the synthesis are associated with environmental benignity and tissue toxicity on in vivo administration. For the first time, we have synthesized AuNPs from leaf extracts of Teraxacum officinale that were found to have significant anti-melanoma, tyrosinase inhibitory and anti-microbial effects, and hence stand as promising candidates for use in cosmetics medical and food industries. Note de contenu : - Chemicals and reagents - Methods - Synthesis and analysis of AuNPs - Anti-melanoma tyrosinase inhibitory and anti-microbial assays : Tyrosinase inhibition assay - Anti-microbial assay) DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00694.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00694.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14385 [article]

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Protective and restorative effects of a Commiphora mukul gum resin and triheptanoin preparation on the CCL-110 skin fibroblast cell line / Cheppail Ramachandran in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 155-160 Titre : Protective and restorative effects of a Commiphora mukul gum resin and triheptanoin preparation on the CCL-110 skin fibroblast cell line Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Cheppail Ramachandran, Auteur ; Karl-Werner Quirin, Auteur ; A. Resek, Auteur ; S. J. Melnick, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 155-160 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Collagène Elastases En biologie moléculaire, les élastases sont des enzymes produites par certains animaux (dont les mammifères), appartenant à la classe des protéases. Exclusivement produites dans le pancréas, elles sont diffusées dans le corps où elles ont un rôle immunologique (attaque des parois externes de bactéries) et où elles catalysent l’hydrolyse de l’élastine, une fibre élastique qui - avec le collagène - détermine les propriétés mécaniques du tissu conjonctif. Enzymes végétales Guggul Peau -- Soins et hygiène Toxicologie cellulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a major ingredient in skin care products because of its anti-wrinkle effects, although it has some side effects especially at higher amounts. In this study, we compare the anti-wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU-TC7). GU-TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO2-co-solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7-carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL-110 skin fibroblasts with GU-TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU-TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in a dose-dependent manner at 20–100 ?g mL?1 and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that GU-TC7 possesses properties that are applicable to the treatment of wrinkles and may be considered for its further evaluation in skin care products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : GU-TC7 preparation - Cycotoxicity assay - MMP-1 expression - Collagen type I expression - PMN-Elastase expression - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Cytotoxicity of GU-TC7 and CoQ10 - Inhibition of MMP-1 - Enhancement of collagen 1 synthesis - Inhibition of human elastase DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00695.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00695.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14386 [article]

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Population genetic segmentation of MHC-correlated perfume preferences / A. Hämmerli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 161-168 Titre : Population genetic segmentation of MHC-correlated perfume preferences Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Hämmerli, Auteur ; C. Schweisgut, Auteur ; M. Kaegi, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 161-168 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Olfactométrie Parfums -- Composition Parfums -- Marketing Tags : 'Préférences  individuelles'  'Complexe  majeur  histocompatibilité'  'Comportement  choix  partenaire'  'Ingrédients  parfums'  'Communication  sexuelle' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It has become difficult to find a matching perfume. An overwhelming number of 300 new perfumes launch each year, and marketing campaigns target pre-defined groups based on gender, age or income rather than on individual preferences. Recent evidence for a genetic basis of perfume preferences, however, could be the starting point for a novel population genetic approach to better match perfumes with people’s preferences. With a total of 116 participants genotyped for alleles of three loci of the major histocompatibility complex (MHC), the aim of this study was to test whether common MHC alleles could be used as genetic markers to segment a given population into preference types. Significant deviations from random expectations for a set of 10 common perfume ingredients indicate how such segmentation could be achieved. In addition, preference patterns of participants confronted with images that contained a sexual communication context significantly differed in their ratings for some of the scents compared with participants confronted with images of perfume bottles. This strongly supports the assumption that genetically correlated perfume preferences evolved in the context of sexual communication. The results are discussed in the light of perfume customization. DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00696.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00696.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14387 [article]

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Separation of sunscreens in skincare creams using greener high-temperature liquid chromatography and subcritical water chromatography / B. Kapalavavi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 169-175 Titre : Separation of sunscreens in skincare creams using greener high-temperature liquid chromatography and subcritical water chromatography Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : B. Kapalavavi, Auteur ; R. Marple, Auteur ; C. J. Gamsky, Auteur ; Y. Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 169-175 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Séparation (technologie) Tags : Avobenzone  Ensulizole  'Chromatographie  verte'  liquide  haute  température'  Homosalate  Octinoxate  Octisalate  Octocrylène  Oxybenzone  'Procter  Gamble'  'Crème  soin'  chromatographie  eau  sous-critique;  les  filtres  solaires;  XBridge  C18;  XTerra  MS  ZirChrom-DiamondBond-C18 Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In this study, high-temperature liquid chromatographic (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatographic (SBWC) separations of sunscreens contained in skincare creams were achieved at temperatures ranging from 90 to 250°C. The columns employed in this work include a ZirChrom-DiamondBond-C18, a XTerra MS C18 and a XBridge C18 column. The quantity of methanol consumed by the greener HTLC sunscreen methods developed in this project is significantly reduced although the HTLC separation at this stage is not as efficient as that achieved by traditional HPLC. SBWC separation of sunscreens was also achieved on the XTerra MS C18 and the XBridge C18 columns using pure water at 230–250°C. Methanol was eliminated in the SBWC methods developed in this study. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : reagents and materials - Preparation of standard solutions - Preparation of sample solutions - Instrumentation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : ZirChrom-DiamondBond-C18 column - Waters XTerra MS C18 column - Waters XBridge C18 column DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00697.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00697.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14388 [article]

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In vitro induction of apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity by cosmetic preservatives : application of flow cytometry as a complementary analysis by NRU / C. M. de Carvalho in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 176-182 Titre : In vitro induction of apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity by cosmetic preservatives : application of flow cytometry as a complementary analysis by NRU Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. M. de Carvalho, Auteur ; P. F. C. Menezes, Auteur ; G. C. Letenski, Auteur ; C. E. O. Praes, Auteur ; I. H. S. Feferman, Auteur ; M. Lorencini, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 176-182 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Cytométrie de flux Etude in vitro Tests de toxicité Toxicologie cellulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Preservatives are used in cosmetics to prevent microbial contamination; however, some preservatives are not free of allergenic and cytotoxic potential. Allergenicity and cytotoxicity potential values are major aspects of preservative safety, which determine limitations and maximum concentration dose in a cosmetic product. The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the in vitro apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity-inducing potential of five different types of preservatives: Phenoxyethanol (PE), Propylparaben (PP), Methylparaben (MP), Benzyl Alcohol (BA) and Ethylhexyl Glycerine (EG). In vitro experiments were carried out on human dermal fibroblasts by a quantitative flow cytometry method, using specific cell markers (Annexin V, Propidium Iodide and H2AX). We compared the resulting cell viability by means of neutral red uptake (NRU) and established the IC50. Our results showed that PE, PP, MP and BA have similar cytotoxic mechanisms (high apoptosis and necrosis levels only at the test concentration of 1%), whereas EG showed only an apoptosis pathway. For genotoxicity, both parabens yielded the highest values. Results obtained by flow cytometry for necrosis were comparable to those produced by NRU; however, NRU does not distinguish apoptosis from necrosis. We propose that flow cytometry is a more sophisticated methodology for understanding the cytotoxic mechanisms of cosmetic preservatives and can be used to complement the NRU. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture used for NRU and flow cytometry - In vitro cytotoxicity by NRU - Flow cytometry - Measurement of phosphatidylserine expression using fluorescein-labelled (FITC) Annexin V and Propidium iodide (PI) uptake - Genetotoxicity analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Cytotoxicity by NRU - Apoptosis and necrosis - Gneotoxicity DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00698.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00698.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14389 [article]

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A secretion of the mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa promotes proliferation, migration and survival of keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro / M. C. Iglesias-de la Cruz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 183-189 Titre : A secretion of the mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa promotes proliferation, migration and survival of keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts in vitro Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. C. Iglesias-de la Cruz, Auteur ; F. Sanz-Rodriguez, Auteur ; A. Zamarrón, Auteur ; E. Reyes, Auteur ; E. Carrasco, Auteur ; S. Gonzàlez, Auteur ; A. Juarranz, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 183-189 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Adhésivité Cellules -- Prolifération Cryptomphalus aspersa Cytosquelette Dermatologie Fibroblastes Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Regenerative properties of skin decrease with age, and thus, the search for substances that minimize cutaneous ageing has increased in the last few years. The secretion of the mollusc Cryptomphalus Aspersa (SCA) is a natural product that bears regenerative properties when applied topically. The purpose of this work is to study the in vitro effects of SCA on cell proliferation and migration, as well as on cell–cell (E-cadherin and ?-catenin) and cell–substrate (vinculin and ?1-integrin) adhesion proteins expression, using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) and primary dermal fibroblasts (HF). We tested the effects of SCA on cell proliferation using a colorimetric assay. In addition, SCA-induced changes on cell migration were studied by wound-healing assays. Besides, Western blot and immunofluorescence microscopy were carried out to test the expression of different cell adhesion proteins. We found that SCA promotes proliferation and migration of HaCaT cells in a time- and dose-dependent manner. Moreover, treatment with SCA increases the migratory behaviour and the expression of adhesion molecules in both HaCaT and HF. Finally, SCA also improves cell survival and promotes phosphorylation of FAK and nuclear localization of ?-catenin. These results shed light on the molecular mechanisms underlying the regenerative properties of SCA, based on its promoting effect on skin cell migration, proliferation and survival. Moreover, these results support future clinical uses of SCA in the regeneration of wounded tissues. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : SCA production - Cell cultures - MTT viability assay - Migration (wound-healing) assays - Immunostaining - Western blot analysis - RESULTS : SCA treatment induces proliferation of HaCaT cells - SCA treatment stimulates migration of HaCaT cells and human fibroblasts - SCA treatment increases the expression of cell-cell and cell-substrate adhesion molecules - SCA treatment promotes the expression of survival molecules in keratinocytes and human fibroblasts DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00699.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00699.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14390 [article]

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Validated UV-spectrophotometric method for the evaluation of the efficacy of makeup remover / P. Charoennit in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 190-192 Titre : Validated UV-spectrophotometric method for the evaluation of the efficacy of makeup remover Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Charoennit, Auteur ; Nattaya Lourith, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 190-192 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool Cosmétiques -- Analyse Démaquillants solvants Spectrophotométrie Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A UV-spectrophotometric method for the analysis of makeup remover was developed and validated according to ICH guidelines. Three makeup removers for which the main ingredients consisted of vegetable oil (A), mineral oil and silicone (B) and mineral oil and water (C) were sampled in this study. Ethanol was the optimal solvent because it did not interfere with the maximum absorbance of the liquid foundation at 250 nm. The linearity was determined over a range of makeup concentrations from 0.540 to 1.412 mg mL?1 (R2 = 0.9977). The accuracy of this method was determined by analysing low, intermediate and high concentrations of the liquid foundation and gave 78.59–91.57% recoveries with a relative standard deviation of <2% (0.56–1.45%). This result demonstrates the validity and reliability of this method. The reproducibilities were 97.32 ± 1.79, 88.34 ± 2.69 and 95.63 ± 2.94 for preparations A, B and C respectively, which are within the acceptable limits set forth by the ASEAN analytical validation guidelines, which ensure the precision of the method under the same operating conditions over a short time interval and the inter-assay precision within the laboratory. The proposed method is therefore a simple, rapid, accurate, precise and inexpensive technique for the routine analysis of makeup remover efficacy. Note de contenu : - Materials and instruments - Specificity - Linearity - Accuracy - Precision DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00701.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00701.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14391 [article]

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Characterization of yield stress and slip behaviour of skin/hair care gels using steady flow and LAOS measurements and their correlation with sensorial attributes / S. Ozkan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 193-201 Titre : Characterization of yield stress and slip behaviour of skin/hair care gels using steady flow and LAOS measurements and their correlation with sensorial attributes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Ozkan, Auteur ; T. W. Gillece, Auteur ; L. Senak, Auteur ; David J. Moore, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 193-201 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide polyacrylique Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Copolymères Cosmétiques Epaississants Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Maléique, Acide Polyvinyl éther Polyvinylpyrrolidone Rhéologie Tags : 'Gel  main/cheveux'  'Grande  amplitude  oscillatoire'  Rhéologie  'Corrélation  sensorielle'  'Limite  élasticité' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Gels made with three different polymers widely used as rheology modifiers in cosmetic formulations (cross-linked poly(acrylic acid), cross-linked poly(maleic acid-alt-methyl vinyl ether) copolymer and cross-linked poly(acrylic acid-co-vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer) were characterized by rheological and sensory evaluation methods to determine the relationship between sensorial perception and corresponding rheological parameters. Both conventional rheological characterization methods and a more recent method, Fourier Transform Rheology with Large Amplitude Oscillatory Flow data (LAOS), were utilized to characterize the material with and without wall slip. Sensorial analyses were implemented in vivo to evaluate the perceived ease of initial and rub-out spreadability, cushion, pick-up and slipperiness attributes of the gels. Results were statistically analysed by both variance (ANOVA) and principle component analysis (PCA). Sensorial panel testing characteristics discriminated the three materials, and PCA analyses revealed that sensory attributes could be well predicted by rheological methods. Rheological experiments, without wall slip, revealed that gel strength in the linear viscoelastic region (LVR) and yield stress of these materials are similar, but exhibit significantly different wall slip and thixotropy behaviour in the low shear rate region under wall slip conditions. Above the critical shear rate, which corresponds to the yield stress, all tested materials did not slip and behaved as conventional, shear thinning polymeric fluids. In particular, the rheological parameters and sensorial perception of the 1% cross-linked vinyl pyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer were significantly affected by wall slip and/or thixotropy-related shear banding phenomena. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Rheological characterization (dynamic oscillatory measurements - Steady torsional flow experiments - Continuous shear rate ramp tests - extensional tests) - Sensory evaluation - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheological characterization (steady torsional flow experiment - Continuous stress of shear rate ramp measurements to establish the shear rate dependency of shear stress and viscosity at different gap openings - Extensional tests - Sensory evaluation - Correlation of sensory ratings with conventional rheological parameters - Correlation of sensory ratings with large amplitude oscillaroty shear flow (LAOS) parameters (Chebyshev coefficients) DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00702.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00702.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14392 [article]

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Screening of plant extracts for human tyrosinase inhibiting effects / M. Kim in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 202-208 Titre : Screening of plant extracts for human tyrosinase inhibiting effects : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00704.x Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Kim, Auteur ; K. Song, Auteur ; H. G. Kim, Auteur ; J.-S. Koh, Auteur ; Yong Chool Boo, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 202-208 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti tyrosinase Coumarique, Acide Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Mélanine Pigmentation de la peau Vaccinium bracteatum Thunberg Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Screening for tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors potentially useful for control of skin pigmentation has been hampered by the limited availability of human TYR. To overcome this hurdle, we have established human embryonic kidney (HEK293)-TYR cells that constitutively express human TYR. In the current study, we assayed human TYR inhibition activities of 50 plant extracts using the lysates of transformed HEK293-TYR cells. The strongest inhibition of human TYR was shown by the extract of Vaccinium bracteatum Thunberg, followed by the extract of Morus bombycis Koidzumi. The former extract did not inhibit mushroom TYR activity whereas significant inhibition was observed with the latter extract, demonstrating the importance of using human TYR in the screening for human TYR inhibitors. Upon liquid-liquid partitioning of the extract from V. bracteatum, the active constituents were enriched in the ethyl acetate fraction, and the subsequent preparatory thin-layer chromatography identified p-coumaric acid (PCA) as the main active constituent. The hypo-pigmentation of PCA was verified in the MelanoDermâ„¢ Skin Model. This study demonstrates that transformed HEK293-TYR cells could expedite the discovery of human TYR-specific inhibitors from natural sources which might be useful in the control of skin pigmentation. Note de contenu : - Plant extracts - Fractionation of the extract from Vaccinium bracteatum Thunberg - HPLC analysis - Preparation of cell-free extracts from transformed HEK293-TYR cells - In vitro assay for TYR activity - Pigmentation assay in a reconstructed skin model - Statistical analysis DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00704.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00704.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14393 [article]

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Characterization of fibrillar collagen types using multi-dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy / V. Lutz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 34, N° 2 (04/2012) . - p. 209-215 Titre : Characterization of fibrillar collagen types using multi-dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : V. Lutz, Auteur ; M. Sattler, Auteur ; S. Gallinat, Auteur ; H. Wenck, Auteur ; R. Poertner, Auteur ; Frank Fischer, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 209-215 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Collagène Fluorescence Génération de seconde harmonique La génération de seconde harmonique (GSH) également appelé doublage de fréquence) est un processus d'optique non-linéaire dans lequel des photons interagissant avec un matériau non-linéaire sont combinés pour former de nouveaux photons avec le double de l'énergie, donc avec le double de la fréquence ou la moitié de la longueur d'onde des photons initiaux. Microscopie Microscopie électronique à balayage Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Tomographie multiphoton Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In dermal photodamage the ratio of the collagen types III to I changes. This makes the investigation of the fibrillar collagen type characteristics interesting for skin research. In this study collagen types were characterized using 5-dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (5D-IVT) that can be applied in vivo. Second harmonic generation (SHG) signals and fluorescence lifetimes of the collagen autofluorescence were analysed. Collagen type I generates a higher SHG intensity and a longer fluorescence lifetime compared to collagen type III. Thus, the SHG intensity decrease found in photodamaged skin might be explained by the increase in collagen type III. Calculating the in vivo relevant increase of collagen type III gives a negligible difference in fluorescence lifetime not qualifying this method for the determination of collagen type changes in dermal photodamage in vivo in human skin. However, for pathologies that exhibit higher differences in collagen types 5D-IVT analysis might be a suitable method. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Collagen lattices of various collagen concentrations - Collagen lattices of various collagen types - Collagen fluorescence model - Multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (IVT) - Electron microscopy - Statistics - RESULTS : Second harmonic generation intensity as a function of collagen type I concentration - Assembly and SHG signal of collagen types - 5D-intravital tomography of collagen types - Isolated fluorescent components of collagen types I and III DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00705.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00705.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14394 [article]

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