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The influence of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum by infrared and raman spectroscopy / Th. Prasch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)
[article]
Titre : The influence of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum by infrared and raman spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Th. Prasch, Auteur ; K. Schlotmann, Auteur ; K. Schmidt-Fonk, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 201-206 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Lipids 'Bound water' 'In-vitro skin' 'in-vivo-infrared spectroscopy' 'de-fatting' 'Lamellar cream' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and as such represents the decisive barrier between the body and the environment. The combination of horny cells and lamellar lipid layers prevents water loss from the body and protects it against penetration by exogenous substances. For selective investigation of the thin outermost stratum corneum layer, ATR-FTIR (attenuated-total-reflection-Fourier-transform-infrared) spectroscopy has proved itself in practice. It provides information about the sebum content, type of fatty substances, water content and degree of order of the lamellar lipid film in the stratum corneum. Complementary information is obtained by NIR-FT-Raman (near-infrared-Fourier-transform-Raman) spectroscopy, which is shown in comparison to infrared spectroscopy by scrutinizing in-vitro epidermis and full-skin models.
In cleansing processes a large part of the sebum is removed from the skin. The skin reacts to the de-fatting process by the rapid secretion of sebum. Cleansing with a mild facial cleansing emulsion de-fats the skin less than a surfactant shower gel. Skin creams cause alterations to the skin moisture and in the degree of order of the stratum corneum lipids. A lamellar cream with a structure similar to, but not identical to, that of the stratum corneum lipids increases the degree of order of the alkyl chains of the skin lipid film (biomimetic principle) while a conventional w/o cream reduces this degree of order Skin moisture increases after the use of the creams.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10724
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 201-206[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003872 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation / Sigrid B. Ruetsch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 299-307 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Chemical and photochemical oxidation' 'surface lipids (F-layer)' microfluorometry 'single fiber surface wettability scanning' 'fiber-to-fiber friction force measurements' 'X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This is a multifaceted study on the characterization and quantification of damage to the hair fiber surface caused by photochemical and cosmetic chemical oxidative processes. Unique techniques were used, including a microfluorometric method that had been adapted to characterize and quantify the delipidation and acidification of the human hair surface during light exposure and cosmetic chemical grooming processes such as bleaching. During photochemical and chemical oxidation, breakdown of the lipid domains (also called the F-layer) of the outer b-layer occurs on the exposed scale faces and cysteic acid groups are generated on the cuticle cell surface. The newly formed acid functionalities can be tagged with the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B, allowing not only quantification of the level of progressive acidification but also localization of the newly formed acid functionalities. On the other hand, the negative charges generated on the hair surface by oxidation can also bind low molecular weight quaternary cationic conditioning compounds such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. This process can be considered a relipidation by adsorption. We have shown that the entire process of delipidation/acid formation and subsequent relipidation by adsorption on the scale faces can be quantified by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Since X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis is highly sensitive and able to detect atomic species at the very surface of the hair fibers, receiving signals from an escape depth as shallow as 25 Å, it appeared ideal for the characterization of treatment-induced changes in the hair surface. However, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy provides an average elemental composition of the hair surface including scale faces and scale edges. The microfluorometric technique, on the other hand, can distinguish progressive delipidation of the scale faces from changes occurring at the broken scale edges. This distinction was shown and characterized in detail by slow speed microfluorometric scanning of the hair surface. Chemical and photochemical oxidative processes at the hair surface result in certain collateral effects. Particularly changes in surface wettability and fiber friction are of significance to the cosmetic chemist because they affect the spreading and wicking of products in hair as well as the managability and the body of hair assemblies. Methods of characterizing these effects are discussed briefly. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10483
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004) . - p. 299-307[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synthesis and characterisation of antifungal agents containing copper(II) soaps and derived from mustard and soyabean oil / R. Sharma in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 45, N° 2/2008 (03-04/2008)
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Titre : Synthesis and characterisation of antifungal agents containing copper(II) soaps and derived from mustard and soyabean oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Sharma, Auteur ; P. Tank, Auteur ; M. Saxena, Auteur ; R. Bhutra, Auteur ; K. G. Ojha, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 87-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Copper(II) soaps' Complexes Characterisation Infrared 'Nuclear magnetic resonance' 'ESR spectroscopy' 'Magnetic moment studies' 'Fungi toxicities' Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : The solid copper(II) soaps derived from Mustard oil and Soyabean oil and their complexes with ligands containing nitrogen and sulphur atoms like urea, thiourea and 2-amino-6-chloro benzothiazole have been synthesized and characterised by elemental analysis, IR, NMR, ESR spectroscopy and magnetic moment studies. From the analytical data, the stoichiometry of the complexes have been observed to be 1:1 (metal:ligand). The magnetic moment studies suggest the dimeric nature of the complexes. IR, NMR and ESR spectral details confirm that complexation has taken place successfully. The results indicate that the complexes possess elongated octahedral geometry. Conductometric studies suggest that the soaps and complexes are non-electrolytic in nature. The fungi toxicities of these ecofriendly and biodegradable soaps and complexes have been investigated. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=3035
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 009993 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Bring back the steel ? The growth of plastics in automotive applications / Rose Ann Ryntz in JOURNAL OF COATINGS TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH, Vol. 3, N° 1 (01/2006)
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Titre : Bring back the steel ? The growth of plastics in automotive applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rose Ann Ryntz, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 3-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Tags : 'Flow agents' 'Dynamic mechanical properties' Fluorescence Hardness 'Scratch resistance' 'UV spectroscopy' Photodegradation Polyacrylics Isocyanates 'Melamine-formaldehyde resins' Photostabilizers Polyurethanes Solventborne 'UV, EB radiation cure' Waterborne 'Service life prediction' Weatherability Automotive-OEM High-solids Latex PARP Index. décimale : 667.9 Revêtements et enduits Résumé : The development of plastics has evolved from the use of natural materials to the use of chemically modified natural materials and, finally, to completely man-made molecules. Plastics continue to improve, to afford flexibility, high-impact, and strength. In automotive applications, plastics have increased in utilization to comprise approximately 10% of the total vehicle weight. They offer increased ductility, freedom from corrosion, and increased styling capability. Although plastics have had a remarkable impact on our culture, it is obvious that there is a price to be paid for their use. Plastics are almost too good, as they are durable when processed correctly, but easily damaged when utilized in the incorrect application. Plastics also degrade very slowly, making recycling mandatory. And finally, while plastics consume only 4% of the world's oil production (petroleum is the raw material that is chemically altered to form commercial plastics), their cost hinges on the cost of petroleum. As petroleum prices increase, so too will the cost of plastic. In 2004, the higher price of plastic forced many plastic manufacturers out of business, and forced many automotive suppliers to look into alternative replacements. With publications such as USA Today reporting that current oil reserves will only last 40 years, scientists continue to seek cheaper alternatives to plastic. This article summarizes the history of commercial plastic development, with a focus on utilization of the materials in automotive applications. Damage criteria of plastic components, namely scratch, oxidative degradation, and impact, are discussed in relation to coatings and processing robustness. Environmental regulations, particularly in relation to recycling mandates, are explained. And finally, trends in alternative material development, including bioplastics, films, ceramic coatings, and nano-composites, are formulated. DOI : 10.1007/s11998-006-0002-9 En ligne : https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007%2Fs11998-006-0002-9.pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=3708
in JOURNAL OF COATINGS TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH > Vol. 3, N° 1 (01/2006) . - p. 3-14[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003762 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible