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IFSCC MAGAZINE . Vol. 7, N° 4Apple seed phytosterols / Free internal lipids in hair / Chemical and photochemical oxidation / New makeup remover / Novel nanoemulsification methodMention de date : 10-11-12/2004 Paru le : 01/10/2004 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierCutaneous restructuration by apple seed phytosterols : from DNA chip analysis to morphological alteration / Thomas Doering in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : Cutaneous restructuration by apple seed phytosterols : from DNA chip analysis to morphological alteration Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Doering, Auteur ; Olaf Holtkötter, Auteur ; Kordula Schlotmann, Auteur ; Claudia Jassoy, Auteur ; Dirk Petersohn, Auteur ; Armin Wadle, Auteur ; Marianne Waldmann-Laue, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Skin equivalent' 'cDNA microarray' 'hyaluronic acid' phytosterols 'anti-wrinkle' 'skin elasticity' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Plant secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, isoflavones and phytosterols have been proposed as cosmetic ingredients displaying anti-aging effects. On the cellular level, however, the activity profiles of these ingredients are only partially understood. In this study we analyzed the effects of apple seed phytosterols on age-related structural and functional parameters using cell biochemical, molecular biological and bioengineering techniques. The expression of age-related genes was studied using skin equivalents and cDNA microarrays. Incubation of skin equivalents with apple seed phytosterols had significant consequences: (i) differential regulation of a set of genes associated with keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, (ii) stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis, and (iii) increase of epidermal thickness. In vivo studies revealed that apple seed phytosterols improve skin elasticity and decrease skin roughness. In conclusion, apple seed phytosterols display distinct biological effects and significantly improve the structure and function of mature skin. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10481
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Free internal lipids in hair from pre- and post-menopausal women / Jennifer Wills in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : Free internal lipids in hair from pre- and post-menopausal women Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Wills, Auteur ; Susan Dolphin, Auteur ; Louise Albiston, Auteur ; Presh Parmar, Auteur ; Gillian E. Westgate, Auteur ; Godfrey J. Harrap, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 293-296 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Menopause lipids 'hair fiber' sebum age beauty attributes' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Little is known about changes in hair lipids during life and their effects on hair properties. Our objectives were to study for the first time the effects of the female menopause on hair lipids, the contribution of sebum, and hair quality using pre-menopausal and post-menopausal subjects with and without hormone replacement therapy. Extracted hair lipids were quantified by high performance thin layer chromatography, forehead sebum output measured by sebumeter and hair greasiness, shine, softness and smoothness evaluated by expert assessment. Pre-menopausal free internal lipids contained free fatty acids, wax or cholesteryl esters, cholesterol, ceramides, triglycerides and squalene. The composition was distinct from scalp surface lipids collected at the same time and from hair follicles from facelift patients, with no wax or cholesteryl esters and squalene in follicles and no ceramides in the surface lipids. Wax or cholesteryl esters and squalene were decreased (P < 0.05) and cholesterol and ceramides increased (P < 0.05) in post-menopausal hair. The changes for squalene, wax or cholesteryl esters and cholesterol were reduced when hormone replacement therapy was taken. Sebum output and hair greasiness, shine, softness and smoothness fell significantly (P < 0.05) after menopause. Hormone replacement therapy increased (P < 0.05) results after menopause. It is concluded that hair free internal lipids derive from both the hair follicle and sebum. Sebum output falls after menopause and contributes less to hair lipids. The hair condition also changes. Understanding hair changes during life should improve matching of hair products to consumer needs. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10482
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation / Sigrid B. Ruetsch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur ; Yash K. Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 299-307 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Chemical and photochemical oxidation' 'surface lipids (F-layer)' microfluorometry 'single fiber surface wettability scanning' 'fiber-to-fiber friction force measurements' 'X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This is a multifaceted study on the characterization and quantification of damage to the hair fiber surface caused by photochemical and cosmetic chemical oxidative processes. Unique techniques were used, including a microfluorometric method that had been adapted to characterize and quantify the delipidation and acidification of the human hair surface during light exposure and cosmetic chemical grooming processes such as bleaching. During photochemical and chemical oxidation, breakdown of the lipid domains (also called the F-layer) of the outer b-layer occurs on the exposed scale faces and cysteic acid groups are generated on the cuticle cell surface. The newly formed acid functionalities can be tagged with the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B, allowing not only quantification of the level of progressive acidification but also localization of the newly formed acid functionalities. On the other hand, the negative charges generated on the hair surface by oxidation can also bind low molecular weight quaternary cationic conditioning compounds such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. This process can be considered a relipidation by adsorption. We have shown that the entire process of delipidation/acid formation and subsequent relipidation by adsorption on the scale faces can be quantified by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Since X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis is highly sensitive and able to detect atomic species at the very surface of the hair fibers, receiving signals from an escape depth as shallow as 25 Ã…, it appeared ideal for the characterization of treatment-induced changes in the hair surface. However, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy provides an average elemental composition of the hair surface including scale faces and scale edges. The microfluorometric technique, on the other hand, can distinguish progressive delipidation of the scale faces from changes occurring at the broken scale edges. This distinction was shown and characterized in detail by slow speed microfluorometric scanning of the hair surface. Chemical and photochemical oxidative processes at the hair surface result in certain collateral effects. Particularly changes in surface wettability and fiber friction are of significance to the cosmetic chemist because they affect the spreading and wicking of products in hair as well as the managability and the body of hair assemblies. Methods of characterizing these effects are discussed briefly. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10483
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water / Kei Watanabe in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kei Watanabe, Auteur ; Masahiko Masuda, Auteur ; Kazuyoshi Nakamura, Auteur ; Tomoyuki Inaba, Auteur ; Akira Noda, Auteur ; Takeshi Yanagida, Auteur ; Toshio Yanaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 309-318 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Bicontinuous 'makeup remover' 'hydrophilic-lipophilic balance' 'phase diagram' cleansing Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline cleansers. Furthermore, oil-based makeup removers do not leave the skin feeling fresh but oily, and often have been used in combination with surfactant-type cleansers. In other words, complete makeup removal and a fresh skin feel are considered to be incompatible in conventional formulation technologies. To obtain compatible systems, we investigated the applicability of a system known as the bicontinuous phase and eventually succeeded in developing a novel system for a makeup remover. This phase can be prepared with a specific composition with a complete hydrophilic-lipophilic balance in an oil/surfactant/water system by using cyclo-siloxane, which dissolves silicone resin well. The bicontinuous phase has an oil- and water-continuous microstructure, showing affinity for both aqueous and oily substances. This bicontinuous phase was applied to the development of a novel makeup remover. Determination of remover cap-ability and fresh skin feel revealed that the makeup could be completely removed and that the amount of oil remaining on skin surface after wash-off was much less than with previous oil-based removers. The results of the sensory test also supported the finding that the remover was far superior to conventional products. This makeup remover is the first example of the application of the bicontinuous phase technology to a cosmetic product and clearly seems to provide the best conditions for subsequent skin care, meaning that it is suitable for the first step in the skincare process. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10484
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003885 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A novel nanoemulsification method of stirring at the Θ-point with the tocopherol-based block co-polymer nonionic emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 / Young-Dae Kim in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)
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Titre : A novel nanoemulsification method of stirring at the Θ-point with the tocopherol-based block co-polymer nonionic emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Young-Dae Kim, Auteur ; Jung-Soo Kim, Auteur ; Iwhan Cho, Auteur ; Ki Woo Kim, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 319-325 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Nanoemulsion 'weight fraction of dispersed phase (?)' 'block co-polymer amphiphile' 'mean particle size' stability 'cryo-scanning electron microscopy' '?-point' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nanoemulsions have recently become increasingly important as potential vehicles for the controlled delivery of cosmetics and for the optimized dispersion of active ingredients in particular skin layers. The preparation of conventional nanoemulsions requires mainly high-pressure homogenization, which is unproductive and requires high energy due to its lower efficiency, limiting their practical applications. In order to solve these problems novel nanoemulsions were studied using a model system of pseudo-ternary water/emulsifier/paraffin oil. Nanoemulsions were prepared by stirring a mixture of the tocopherol-containing block co-polymer emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, paraffin oil, and distilled water at the Θ-point using weight fractions of the dispersed phase (φ) of 0.31 to 0.82 and an emulsifier content of 1.0 to 9 wt.%. The emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in nanoemulsions was compared with that of the conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate (3/1), and phospholipids. Also the emulsifying property of PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 in the more hydrophilic oils caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol was compared with that in paraffin oil. The stability and morphology of the resulting nanoemulsions were studied by visual inspection, optical microscopy, particle size analysis, and cryo-scanning electron microscopy. In the nanoemulsion systems containing caprylic/capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol, respectively, as an oil phase PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 showed emulsification properties similar to those in paraffin oil. The conventional emulsifiers Tocophereth-43, a mixture of polysorbate 60 and sesquioleate (3/1), and phospholipids did not give nanoemulsions with high-speed stirring. The block co-polymer nonionic emulsifier PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to produce stable nanoemulsions of mean droplet diameters ranging from 204 to 499 nm. The emulsification method of high-speed stirring at the Θ-point using PPG-20 Tocophereth-50 was found to be very effective for the preparation of stable nanoemulsions useful for applications in skincare cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and drugs. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10485
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